Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:40 AM - Re: Ignition Cable clamp (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 03:12 AM - Re: VH-ICY (AirMike)
3. 06:37 AM - Re: Re: Ignition Cable clamp (linn Walters)
4. 07:10 AM - Re: Performance Data Point (Tim Olson)
5. 12:04 PM - wheel pant and tire clearance (David McNeill)
6. 01:41 PM - closed loop rudder (linn Walters)
7. 02:00 PM - Re: wheel pant and tire clearance (Marcus Cooper)
8. 02:42 PM - Wheel Bearing auto part numbers (Tim Lewis)
9. 02:55 PM - Re: closed loop rudder (linn Walters)
10. 03:49 PM - Marker Beacon (AirMike)
11. 04:15 PM - Re: Re: VH-ICY (Chris and Susie McGough)
12. 04:25 PM - Windows installation - epilog (McGANN, Ron)
13. 05:06 PM - Re: Marker Beacon (Carl Froehlich)
14. 05:28 PM - Re: Marker Beacon (David McNeill)
15. 06:03 PM - Re: Marker Beacon (Bill DeRouchey)
16. 07:24 PM - Re: Marker Beacon (AirMike)
17. 07:56 PM - Re: closed loop rudder (Dave Leikam)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition Cable clamp |
Linn,
I I am looking for the ignition clamps that attach to
the valve covers as you said the Adel Clamp modification is one way. However I
wonder if there are the clamps for one and for two cables there must be also some
out there for three did all six cylinder engine owners manufacture them themselves?
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183632#183632
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wow = awesome paint job.
Hope that you are going to OSH
Very sorry about the Dynon - would you use it if you did it again?
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183635#183635
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| Subject: | Re: Ignition Cable clamp |
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Linn,
>
> I I am looking for the ignition clamps that attach to
> the valve covers as you said the Adel Clamp modification is one way. However
I wonder if there are the clamps for one and for two cables there must be also
some out there for three did all six cylinder engine owners manufacture them
themselves?
>
Another good question!!!! Most all engines come with an ignition
harness and those clamps, and I've seen clamps that were pretty ragged
...... even missing the plastic and they put electricians tape on the
wires for anti-chafe!!! If you really want the 'real' clamps, then I'd
start looking at the magneto manufacturers themselves. I have a
downloaded Aircraft Spruce catalog on my workshop computer, but can't
get it to download on this one. The clamps may be available thru Spruce
....send them an email. I suspect that with a long ..... really long
.... distance phone call and shipping it may be easier for you to make
your own.
Linn
do not archive
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183632#183632
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Performance Data Point |
I agree totally! Yesterday up here it was a nice smooth morning
in the 60's, so I met some fellow RV-ers for breakfast. I pushed
the throttle forward all the way, mixture full rich, straight
and level, until I hit 182kts. I've seen slightly higher one
day, but it's nice to know it still performs "as listed".
Oh, and after balancing my tires, once again, all landings had
almost nothing for shimmy left.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Dave Saylor wrote:
> We took off from Palm Springs this afternoon. It was HOT, but the plane
> performed flawlessly. OAT was 38C, DA 3250'
>
> We opted for the long runway, but it wasn't necessary. We used 1/3
> flaps but did not lean for takeoff. We "rolled" into the departure, and
> were off before the threshold. I used Google Earth to estimate the
> takeoff distance--very close to 1250'. Climb was just a little less
> than normal. I was worried about oil temp, which got to the bottom of
> the yellow by around 6000'. We nosed over a bit until it cooled and
> then just continued the climb (at that point we were passing 1000' over
> a Mooney that took off in front of us...).
>
> Takeoff weight was about 2450
>
> CHT was always around 385.
> This is a great plane!
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | wheel pant and tire clearance |
what clearance have builders left between the wheel pant and tire? mains?
nose? Is one inch adequate or too much?
Message 6
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| Subject: | closed loop rudder |
Here's a pic of the bracket I cobbled up for the closed loop rudder
cable. The red string is where the 1/16" loop cable will go. The
reason for 1/16" cable is that I had the pulleys already. It would be
an easy mod to put larger pulleys and larger cable.
You can see the mod I made to the rudder cable attachment ..... it's
inside the tunnel. I don't like sandy (in FL) shoes smacking the rudder
cables so I moved them inside the tunnel. It would be simpler to make
brackets for the pulleys and put them on the outside of the tunnel,
running the cable through the tunnel just under the heater valves.
This is the first time I've tried sending a picture so we'll see what
happens!!!
Linn
do not archive
inserted picture:
Message 7
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| Subject: | wheel pant and tire clearance |
David,
1" sounds pretty good to me. I probably have a little less in mine, I
basically created a gap I could slide my fingers into comfortably. I
started off with the gap a little too small on the aft side of the wheel
and it didn't work out so well. While a tight gap would be nice, having a
buffer for the wheel distorting will be a much better thing in the long run.
I highly recommend you measure the gaps with weight on wheels to make sure
it's valid.
Marcus
Do not archvie
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 2:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: wheel pant and tire clearance
what clearance have builders left between the wheel pant and tire? mains?
nose? Is one inch adequate or too much?
Message 8
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| Subject: | Wheel Bearing auto part numbers |
Can anybody verify the part numbers for the RV-10 main wheel bearings
(bearing cup part number and bearing cone part number)? The wheel is a
Cleveland 40-59A. As best I can tell, the Cleveland bearing part
numbers are 214-01300 (cup) and 214-01400 (cone), with equivalent auto
part numbers LM29710 and LM29479.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: closed loop rudder |
linn Walters wrote:
> Here's a pic of the bracket I cobbled up for the closed loop rudder
> cable.
snip
Thought you should also know.
The reason for the cross arm holding the pulleys is that I was concerned
with pulling the sides of the tunnel inwards if the pulleys were just
mounted on brackets ...... (which would also be needed if the pulley
brackets were on the outside). The pivot on the right side allows me to
adjust the tension by moving the left side.
I could always preload the loop with an extension spring between the
loop cable and one rudder pedal attach point. That way I could bolt the
left side down like the right side. Work in progress.
Linn
do not archive
Message 10
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Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
Appreciate any comments.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
Message 11
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I am in Australia, might just be out of the test area!
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: VH-ICY
>
> wow = awesome paint job.
> Hope that you are going to OSH
> Very sorry about the Dynon - would you use it if you did it again?
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183635#183635
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Windows installation - epilog |
For those that may be interested, attached is the data sheet for FE6026
that some have recommended. There is no reference to bonding to
plastics (particularly acrylic which is notoriously difficult to bond
to) and my very subjective test indicated that the bond strength to
acrylic was little better than epoxy/flox.
So my conclusions were as follows ('structural' here is subjective and
means that only average force was required to separate the bond. I was
really interested in the substrate breaking before the bond) - :
1. Epoxy/flox bond strength to acrylic was not structural
2. FE6026 bond strength to acrylic was not structural
3. Sikaflex requires a 3/16" bed and is not structural (see also
the really interesting thread on Sikaflex on the VAF list) (not tested)
4. Silpruf bond strength of ~300psi is not structural (not tested)
5. ScotchWeld 2216 B/A (1100 psi) achieves max peel strength with a
17-25 mil bond line (too bad if you need spacers or have gaps to fill)
(not tested)
6. Did not have any Hysol, but from all accounts appears to be
structural and an alterante to Weld on
A supply of Weld-on arrived in Australia the day after I ordered the
FE6026 and 2216 B/A from Spruce. For the record, I used the Weldon -
piece of mind that the windshield is an integral part of the cabin and
the bond will not fail if the unimaginable happens. YMMV, but if you
depart from the plans, I would encourage you to do your own
research/tests. What I did find is that there are some amazing
adhesives out there for gluing Aluminium together!!
<<FE6026TDS.pdf>>
Cheers
Ron
187 finishing
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Message 13
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The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A simple
quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the cowl should work
well.
A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If you make it
with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up slightly shorter. For
this single frequency application there are no advantages to a wide metal
strip over a single wire.
The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female bulkhead
BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or firewall (cowl
antenna). From this you can make the connection to the antenna wire using
another male BNC connector. Leave some slack so you can remove the
connector and hot glue or glass in the rest of the antenna wire. If you
have an old piece of coax laying around you can fit a male BNC to it, then
remove the outer jacket and shield wire from about a half inch from the BNC
connector, leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on), cut the
wire so the total length is 37 1/2".
If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring and as far
from the wing rib as possible.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (flaps)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
Appreciate any comments.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
Message 14
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May be a wrong question but why is anyone thinking of installing a MB
receiver. Any IFR GPS/EFIS identifies passing the OM. When over the final
approach fix which is co=located with a MB, the OM flashes on the EFIS. Same
question for ADF except for perhaps outside the USA. Here ADFs/NDBs and MB
seem to be last century's technology.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 5:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
--> <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A simple
quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the cowl should work
well.
A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If you make it
with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up slightly shorter. For
this single frequency application there are no advantages to a wide metal
strip over a single wire.
The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female bulkhead
BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or firewall (cowl
antenna). From this you can make the connection to the antenna wire using
another male BNC connector. Leave some slack so you can remove the
connector and hot glue or glass in the rest of the antenna wire. If you
have an old piece of coax laying around you can fit a male BNC to it, then
remove the outer jacket and shield wire from about a half inch from the BNC
connector, leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on), cut the
wire so the total length is 37 1/2".
If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring and as far
from the wing rib as possible.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (flaps)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
Appreciate any comments.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
Message 15
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We have two RV-10's using the same scheme as Carl wrote and it works well. There
is a lot of power coming up from the ground so a simple wire is sufficient.
If you plan to install a Bob Archer wingtip antenna today or add a backup NAV
antenna in the future suggest you glass in the wire antenna on the upper side
of the wingtip. If you glass it on the bottom the Bob Archer antenna will not
work properly.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@cox.net> wrote:
The Marker Beacon radiates straight up at relatively high power. A simple
quarter wavelength of wire in the wingtip or bottom of the cowl should work
well.
A quarter wave antenna at 75Mhz should be about 37.4 inches. If you make it
with a fat wire or wide metal strip it would end up slightly shorter. For
this single frequency application there are no advantages to a wide metal
strip over a single wire.
The simplest thing to do is to run a coax line to a double female bulkhead
BNC connector on the end wing rib (wingtip antenna) or firewall (cowl
antenna). From this you can make the connection to the antenna wire using
another male BNC connector. Leave some slack so you can remove the
connector and hot glue or glass in the rest of the antenna wire. If you
have an old piece of coax laying around you can fit a male BNC to it, then
remove the outer jacket and shield wire from about a half inch from the BNC
connector, leave the center wire as is (with the insulation on), cut the
wire so the total length is 37 1/2".
If mounting in the wing tip try to keep it away from other wiring and as far
from the wing rib as possible.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (flaps)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Marker Beacon
Looking for some guidance about putting the MB antenna in the wing tip.
Has anyone done this and how are the results as far as reception.
Since it is basically looking down this would appear to be a no brainer.
Appreciate any comments.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183725#183725
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon |
Thank you for the information Carl. I also received a call which advised me that
the MB in wingtip would work with a 18"x 6" wide base plate on which the MB
antenna (Comant CI-102) would be mounted as close to the bottom of the wing tip
as possible. This would give me a mounting plate as well as the "ground plane".
I am not that knowledgeable in this area so any help is appreciated.
I am essentially a VFR pilot but I wanted my plane certified as Day/Nite VFR/IFR
so I have an SL30 Nav/Com and a Garmin 340 audio panel. My GPS is a Garmin 496.
I figure that I saved about 6K on my panel over having a GNS430 plus on the
496 I get weather and Zaon traffic avoidance. Seems to me the best bang for
the buck. My AFS3500 apparently displays the GS but not the MB.
Any further comments appreciated.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=183752#183752
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a_panel_327.jpg
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: closed loop rudder |
Interesting design.
Have you considered the lever arm force on the tabs holding the
extensions to the rudder cables when the rudder hits the stops or just
the repeated forward and back pressures from the rudder in flight.
Could a small amount of continued flexing eventually break the tabs?
The force on the tabs is now torque rather than tension. Just my humble
observation.
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: linn Walters
To: RV-10 ; pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 3:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: closed loop rudder
Here's a pic of the bracket I cobbled up for the closed loop rudder
cable. The red string is where the 1/16" loop cable will go. The
reason for 1/16" cable is that I had the pulleys already. It would be
an easy mod to put larger pulleys and larger cable.
You can see the mod I made to the rudder cable attachment ..... it's
inside the tunnel. I don't like sandy (in FL) shoes smacking the rudder
cables so I moved them inside the tunnel. It would be simpler to make
brackets for the pulleys and put them on the outside of the tunnel,
running the cable through the tunnel just under the heater valves.
This is the first time I've tried sending a picture so we'll see what
happens!!!
Linn
do not archive
inserted picture:
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