Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:50 AM - Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 05:27 AM - Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency (John Testement)
3. 05:58 AM - Re: Garmin 530 memory battery (Indran Chelvanayagam)
4. 08:00 AM - Re: Garmin 530 memory battery (William Curtis)
5. 09:25 AM - Rigging-ailerons v flaps (pilotdds@aol.com)
6. 10:09 AM - Re: Rigging-ailerons v flaps (Rene Felker)
7. 10:35 AM - Re: Rigging-ailerons v flaps (Darton Steve)
8. 12:57 PM - Crow Harnesses (dmaib@mac.com)
9. 01:48 PM - 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
10. 02:02 PM - Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit (Robin Marks)
11. 02:10 PM - Re: 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping (Tim Olson)
12. 02:27 PM - Re: 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping ()
13. 02:37 PM - Re: Rigging-ailerons v flaps (Chris and Susie McGough)
14. 02:40 PM - Re: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit (Larry Rosen)
15. 02:56 PM - Re: 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
16. 03:16 PM - Re: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit (Indran Chelvanayagam)
17. 03:24 PM - tent camp site needed for THR,FRI,SAT (David McNeill)
18. 03:28 PM - Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency (McGANN, Ron)
19. 04:33 PM - Re: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit (Carl Froehlich)
20. 04:34 PM - Re: tent camp site needed for THR,FRI,SAT (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
21. 08:09 PM - Re: GA airports for Chicago - Add on Detroit (Red Bull) (geoff Combs)
22. 08:44 PM - Gascolator (Wayne Edgerton)
23. 09:27 PM - Re: Gascolator (David McNeill)
24. 09:38 PM - Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency (AirMike)
25. 09:42 PM - Re: Gascolator (William Curtis)
26. 09:58 PM - Re: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit (Dave Saylor)
27. 10:26 PM - Re: Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency (McGANN, Ron)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
I guess they want to be sure that no chips are caught between the fiberglass and
the aluminum.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184142#184142
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
Mike,
I strongly encourage you to drill the wing tip attach with the wing on the
plane and all control surfaces in the neutral position. Clamp a long
straightedge to the wingtip, aileron and flap edges. Otherwise the wingtips
will not align with the aileron tips. I had to do major surgery with the
wingtips to fix this problem
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting and final assembly
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency
Reference to page 24-3 of the plans on the installation of the wing tips.
I have pre-fitted the tip using "step 1" and drilled/clecoed #40 the attach
holes. It seems to line up pretty good. I do not understand why you want to
remove the wing tip per "Step 2"
It would seem better to just finish drill #28 right thru the aluminum and
the fiberglass to maintain alignment and keep the fiberglass from puckering.
After drilling you can detach the tip and do the dimpling, deburring,
countersinking and aligning the nut plates.
Is there something that I am missing here.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184139#184139
Checked by AVG.
5:04 PM
Checked by AVG.
5:04 PM
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 530 memory battery |
Interesting that the heart of the system is the humble Intel '386 chip.
Also interesting is the extensive use of electrolytic capacitors,
which have a propensity to leak when hot/old.
Thanks for the open heart pictures, Bob
Indran
On 21/05/2008, at 9:18 AM, Bob-tcw wrote:
> Last weekend while flying our Glastar I was greeted by a message
> on my Garmin 530 ,"Internal Memory Battery Low". When I got home
> I looked up the error message in the big handbook, it says take the
> unit to the nearest authorized Garmin dealer and have the battery
> changed. This battery apparently backs-up the onboard memory
> which holds flightplans and other user data. Well, I just
> couldn't resist the temptation to look under the hood to see how
> "replaceable" this battery is. As I'm well aware, a trip to the
> Garmin Dealer usually makes a trip to the Lexus dealer look like a
> kids play.
> I found the battery and well its not for the faint of heart, and
> for those who don't mind watching open heart surgery I've included a
> picture of my 530 laid out on the table. The battery is a
> commonly available Sanyo Lithium cell # CR15250SE with solder tabs
> available from Newark Electronics and others for about $6. The
> battery is soldered into a circuit board deep inside the unit and
> also has a little dab of adhesive for good measure. The good
> news is that although the battery is deep inside the 530, everything
> inside the unit is very connectorized and modular, about 20 screws
> removed and a half a dozen connectors disconnected and you are to
> the pc board with the battery. The battery comes off with standard
> desoldering techniques and the new battery is installed in a flash.
> With the unit all reassembled it was back to the field for the
> moment of truth. All is well and after reacquiring its location my
> GNS530 is happy again.
>
> Oh yeah, the original battery lasted just shy of 10 years.
>
>
> Bob Newman
> TCW Technologies
> www.tcwtech.com<gns-530.JPG>
Do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 530 memory battery |
Remember the 430 started shipping in 1997 and the 530 I think in 1999.
The i386 (386EX in this case) wasn't state of the art for PCs, but the dedicated
embedded function (EX) processor was a good choice for the application. I'd
be interested to see what the "W" units are using now. I"m not as brave as Bob
to open mine up however.
http://www.ssv-embedded.de/ssv/pc104/p8.htm
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> Interesting that the heart of the system is the humble Intel '386 chip.
>
> Also interesting is the extensive use of electrolytic capacitors,
> which have a propensity to leak when hot/old.
>
> Thanks for the open heart pictures, Bob
>
> Indran
>
> On 21/05/2008, at 9:18 AM, Bob-tcw wrote:
>
> > Last weekend while flying our Glastar I was greeted by a message
> > on my Garmin 530 ,"Internal Memory Battery Low". When I got home
> > I looked up the error message in the big handbook, it says take the
> > unit to the nearest authorized Garmin dealer and have the battery
> > changed. This battery apparently backs-up the onboard memory
> > which holds flightplans and other user data. Well, I just
> > couldn't resist the temptation to look under the hood to see how
> > "replaceable" this battery is. As I'm well aware, a trip to the
> > Garmin Dealer usually makes a trip to the Lexus dealer look like a
> > kids play.
> > I found the battery and well its not for the faint of heart, and
> > for those who don't mind watching open heart surgery I've included a
> > picture of my 530 laid out on the table. The battery is a
> > commonly available Sanyo Lithium cell # CR15250SE with solder tabs
> > available from Newark Electronics and others for about $6. The
> > battery is soldered into a circuit board deep inside the unit and
> > also has a little dab of adhesive for good measure. The good
> > news is that although the battery is deep inside the 530, everything
> > inside the unit is very connectorized and modular, about 20 screws
> > removed and a half a dozen connectors disconnected and you are to
> > the pc board with the battery. The battery comes off with standard
> > desoldering techniques and the new battery is installed in a flash.
> > With the unit all reassembled it was back to the field for the
> > moment of truth. All is well and after reacquiring its location my
> > GNS530 is happy again.
> >
> > Oh yeah, the original battery lasted just shy of 10 years.
> >
> >
> > Bob Newman
> > TCW Technologies
> > www.tcwtech.com<gns-530.JPG>
> Do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Rigging-ailerons v flaps |
I am reassembling control surfaces after new paint and have discovered the a
ilerons are about .125 of an inch higher than the flaps in the reflex positi
on when measured at the trailing edge.The aircraft has 175 hours since my fi
rst flight.It=C2- has required significant rudder trim-solved with a fixed
tab,and a slightly heavy right wing-3 gallons of fuel.The ailerons are syme
trical when the stick is neutral that is both trailing edges are above the f
laps by an equal amount.Any thoughts from other builders.
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 8:18 am
Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf / Window Installation and other magic
Hi
=C2-
One the strength of Dave Saylor's recommendation and other comments, I purch
ased the AirlinkTech video on using Silpruf to set install windows. The vide
o can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9
=C2-
I watched the video last night and have a few comments, FWIW.
=C2-
First, a big negative - it=99s on a VHS tape not on a DVD. After that
it was a very nice "how to" video.
=C2-
In short the process used is to mask the windows and then set them in place
on small Silpruf standoffs that keep the windows flush with the canopy. A be
ad of Silpuf is used to install the windows. Screw on clecos are used to kee
p everything in pace while things dry.
=C2-
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by step. It e
xplains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal. It also
shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit.
=C2-
A groove (about 1/8") is left between the windows and the canopy. After pain
ting, Silpruf is used to fill the groove. =C2-Apparently Silpruf cannot be
painted so you must pick a Silpuf colour that works with your pain scheme.
=C2-
At first blush there seems to be some obvious advantages to this method they
being:
=C2-
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- The Silpruf has a lon
g working time so you don=99t have to play =9Cbeat the clock
=9D when installing.
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- The Silpruf is non re
active so you can use normal masking tape to setup the =9Creveal
=9D edges. You will have lots of time to get everything just right before
you have to remove the masks.
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- The Silpruf is flexib
le so there won=99t be cracks in the paint / caulking around the windo
ws
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- In the event that a w
indow needs to be replaced. It would be a much easier job to remove & replac
e the window *I think*.
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- You are not glassing
onto a window with all the associated issues with sanding etc. As someone me
ntioned in an earlier post, with windows you can=99t fix a screw up wi
th an OOPS rivet.
=C2=B7=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Before curing and aft
er, excess along the groove can be easily removed.
=C2-
A quick search shows that Silpruf is available in a wide choice of colours i
ncluding: White, Black, Limestone, Light Grey, Aluminium, GreyDark, Grey, Pr
ecast White and Bronze.
=C2-
Right after I watched the video I checked the plans to see how the front win
dow is installed. My recollection was there was no =9Cjoggle=9D
at the bottom of the front windscreen. Using Silpruf on the front windscreen
would, I think, require building a joggle and then trimming the window to f
it. I just noticed that Dave noted this rework in one of his posts as well.
=C2-
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by step. It e
xplains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal. It also
shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit. If you are contemplating us
ing this method, get the video, it is well worth the cost.
=C2-
Anyway, I for one plan to use this method on the side windows. I still have
a lot of time to contemplate the front windscreen..
=C2-
Cheers
=C2-
Les Kearney
#40643 =93 moving from rivets to systems
C-GCWZ
=C2-
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Rigging-ailerons v flaps |
This might not be much help, but I did have to readjust my right flap
due to airframe contact. It had a heavy left wing. So I would think
that it may be your flap rigging.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 10:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rigging-ailerons v flaps
I am reassembling control surfaces after new paint and have discovered
the ailerons are about .125 of an inch higher than the flaps in the
reflex position when measured at the trailing edge.The aircraft has 175
hours since my first flight.It has required significant rudder
trim-solved with a fixed tab,and a slightly heavy right wing-3 gallons
of fuel.The ailerons are symetrical when the stick is neutral that is
both trailing edges are above the flaps by an equal amount.Any thoughts
from other builders.
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 8:18 am
Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf / Window Installation and other magic
Hi
One the strength of Dave Saylor's recommendation and other comments, I
purchased the AirlinkTech video on using Silpruf to set install windows.
The video can be found at: <http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9>
http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9
I watched the video last night and have a few comments, FWIW.
First, a big negative - it=99s on a VHS tape not on a DVD. After
that it was a very nice "how to" video.
In short the process used is to mask the windows and then set them in
place on small Silpruf standoffs that keep the windows flush with the
canopy. A bead of Silpuf is used to install the windows. Screw on clecos
are used to keep everything in pace while things dry.
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by step.
It explains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal.
It also shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit.
A groove (about 1/8") is left between the windows and the canopy. After
painting, Silpruf is used to fill the groove. Apparently Silpruf cannot
be painted so you must pick a Silpuf colour that works with your pain
scheme.
At first blush there seems to be some obvious advantages to this method
they being:
=C2=B7 The Silpruf has a long working time so you don=99t
have to play =9Cbeat the clock=9D when installing.
=C2=B7 The Silpruf is non reactive so you can use normal masking
tape to setup the =9Creveal=9D edges. You will have lots of
time to get everything just right before you have to remove the masks.
=C2=B7 The Silpruf is flexible so there won=99t be cracks
in the paint / caulking around the windows
=C2=B7 In the event that a window needs to be replaced. It would
be a much easier job to remove & replace the window *I think*.
=C2=B7 You are not glassing onto a window with all the
associated issues with sanding etc. As someone mentioned in an earlier
post, with windows you can=99t fix a screw up with an OOPS rivet.
=C2=B7 Before curing and after, excess along the groove can be
easily removed.
A quick search shows that Silpruf is available in a wide choice of
colours including: White, Black, Limestone, Light Grey, Aluminium,
GreyDark, Grey, Precast White and Bronze.
Right after I watched the video I checked the plans to see how the front
window is installed. My recollection was there was no
=9Cjoggle=9D at the bottom of the front windscreen. Using
Silpruf on the front windscreen would, I think, require building a
joggle and then trimming the window to fit. I just noticed that Dave
noted this rework in one of his posts as well.
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by step.
It explains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal.
It also shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit. If you are
contemplating using this method, get the video, it is well worth the
cost.
Anyway, I for one plan to use this method on the side windows. I still
have a lot of time to contemplate the front windscreen..
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 =93 moving from rivets to systems
C-GCWZ
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
://forums.matronics.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_____
Stay informed, get connected and more
<http://mobile.aol.com/productOverview.jsp?productOverview=aol-mobile-o
verview&?ncid=aolmbd00030000000139> with AOL on your phone.
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http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rigging-ailerons v flaps |
I would not worry about the aileron rigging as much as
being sure that the flaps don't need to be raised to
be in the proper position. The Citation I fly has the
ailerons rigged both about .375" up, it flys great.
I've heard of aircraft racers intentionally rigging
ailerons this way to reduce drag.
Steve 40212
--- pilotdds@aol.com wrote:
> I am reassembling control surfaces after new paint
> and have discovered the ailerons are about .125 of
> an inch higher than the flaps in the reflex position
> when measured at the trailing edge.The aircraft has
> 175 hours since my first flight.It has required
> significant rudder trim-solved with a fixed tab,and
> a slightly heavy right wing-3 gallons of fuel.The
> ailerons are symetrical when the stick is neutral
> that is both trailing edges are above the flaps by
> an equal amount.Any thoughts from other builders.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 8:18 am
> Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf / Window Installation
> and other magic
>
>
>
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> One the strength of Dave Saylor's recommendation and
> other comments, I purchased the AirlinkTech video on
> using Silpruf to set install windows. The video can
> be found at: http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9
>
>
>
> I watched the video last night and have a few
> comments, FWIW.
>
>
>
> First, a big negative - its on a VHS tape not on
> a DVD. After that it was a very nice "how to" video.
>
>
>
> In short the process used is to mask the windows and
> then set them in place on small Silpruf standoffs
> that keep the windows flush with the canopy. A bead
> of Silpuf is used to install the windows. Screw on
> clecos are used to keep everything in pace while
> things dry.
>
>
>
> The video is very detailed and shows everything
> required, step by step. It explains how and why to
> mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal. It also
> shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit.
>
>
>
> A groove (about 1/8") is left between the windows
> and the canopy. After painting, Silpruf is used to
> fill the groove. Apparently Silpruf cannot be
> painted so you must pick a Silpuf colour that works
> with your pain scheme.
>
>
>
> At first blush there seems to be some obvious
> advantages to this method they being:
>
>
>
> The Silpruf has a long working
> time so you dont have to play beat the
> clock when installing.
>
> The Silpruf is non reactive so
> you can use normal masking tape to setup the
> reveal edges. You will have lots of time to
> get everything just right before you have to remove
> the masks.
>
> The Silpruf is flexible so there
> wont be cracks in the paint / caulking around the
> windows
>
> In the event that a window needs
> to be replaced. It would be a much easier job to
> remove & replace the window *I think*.
>
> You are not glassing onto a
> window with all the associated issues with sanding
> etc. As someone mentioned in an earlier post, with
> windows you cant fix a screw up with an OOPS
> rivet.
>
> Before curing and after, excess
> along the groove can be easily removed.
>
>
>
> A quick search shows that Silpruf is available in a
> wide choice of colours including: White, Black,
> Limestone, Light Grey, Aluminium, GreyDark, Grey,
> Precast White and Bronze.
>
>
>
> Right after I watched the video I checked the plans
> to see how the front window is installed. My
> recollection was there was no joggle at the
> bottom of the front windscreen. Using Silpruf on the
> front windscreen would, I think, require building a
> joggle and then trimming the window to fit. I just
> noticed that Dave noted this rework in one of his
> posts as well.
>
>
>
> The video is very detailed and shows everything
> required, step by step. It explains how and why to
> mask the windows to get a nice sharp reveal. It also
> shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit. If
> you are contemplating using this method, get the
> video, it is well worth the cost.
>
>
>
> Anyway, I for one plan to use this method on the
> side windows. I still have a lot of time to
> contemplate the front windscreen..
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643 moving from rivets to systems
>
> C-GCWZ
>
>
>
>
>
> -= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
> -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to
> browse
> -= the many List utilities such as List
> Un/Subscription,
> -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat,
> FAQ,
> -= Photoshare, and much much more:
> -= -->
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> -========================-= -
> MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> -= Same great content also available via the Web
> Forums!
> -= --> http://forums.matronics.com
> -========================-= - List
> Contribution Web Site -
> -= Thank you for your generous support!
> -= -Matt Dralle, List
> Admin.
> -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -=======================
>
Message 8
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|
I am planning on ordering Crow harnesses and would like to know if anybody knows
the correct measurements for front and rear seats? Shoulder harnesses and lap
belts. [Question]
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184229#184229
Message 9
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| Subject: | 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
It's that time! http://www.airventure.org/
The past couple of years Gary Specketer and I (and Brenda and Susan)
have arrived the Monday afternoon/evening before AirVenture starts and
reserved/staked out camping sites Tuesday for others. This year
AirVenture is starts on 7/27 and runs through 8/3 which means that we'll
stake out the sites on Tuesday 7/22. Because our sites weren't 100%
contiguous last year we (Gary, Tim Olson and I) discussed the
possibility of doing it even earlier this year but to have any
measurable impact on location that would mean having to stake them out
before the weekend and that means significant additional cost (+$80 per
site) for little gain. We wouldn't get much closer but would
potentially have the group closer together. As it was last year, we had
about 4 groups of 4-8 sites each that were all either directly across or
diagonally across from each other. If you are interested in reserving a
site starting 7/18 instead of 7/22, Tim has offered to go over and stake
them out.
For those that haven't participated before and/or need a refresher on
how it works - Camp Scholler is VERY large and EAA does not support
reservations - first come, first served. By arriving early the week
prior we've always been able to get very close to the entrance just
south of Hangars B and C. There are shower facilities along with a camp
store within 5 minutes walking time of where we normally camp, but the
sites themselves do not have water, sewer or electrical hookups. Many
people have generators either built in or standalone and those are
allowed between the hours of 6AM and 10PM. There is also a service that
will dump the tanks on your RV (wheeled sort) for a reasonable fee. EAA
will not allow sites to be staked out without registration tags and in
order to get a tag you have to pay for the site. They charge a daily
rate of $20 from the day the site is registered until the end of the
show (counting Sunday night) and will refund any unused days if you
leave early (with a 3 day minimum). That makes the total $260 if you
were to stay for the entire show. Last year we did have several people
come for the first few days and then "hand off" their site to somebody
else that was only coming for that last few days. Tim posted a lot of
info on his website along with attendee contact info to facilitate this
coordination. For this you receive a campsite (approximately 20x30)
registered in your name, a car pass which allows you to drive into Camp
Scholler and the ability to park without additional cost. While you
will likely have an empty camp site with your name on it for a few days,
it will guarantee you a close spot.
Last year we had 20+ sites and a few large group cookouts (not limited
to campers) that were very popular and will do so again this year. Gary
and I are willing to run and get the food etc. and provide wheels for
those who need them. We will put out a free will offering basket and
you can contribute what you think its worth. We don't want to make
money on this but would like to offset the cost of food. If there is
surplus we'll use it as seed money for the next night or for something
to benefit the group. We don't have specific nights picked out - if
it's anything like last year there will be several. We also had a
surplus from the last evening cookout and will use that this year to
acquire an "extra" site that won't have anybody camping on it and use
that to supplement our seating/chatting/eating area.
As Gary noted last year, we are just willing to serve, don't have all
the details worked out and are open to suggestions. Let us know your
thoughts and we will refine the plan. The one thing that wound up being
difficult last year was decided which site to assign to each person.
Last year we used a rationale based on arrival time and type of camper
(we didn't put tent campers next to a Class A motor home, etc) and tried
to take into account who would have kids along, etc. We're certainly
open to ideas on this but until we actually get to OSH we won't know how
things will be laid out.
If you are interested in camping with the group you should first
register on Tim's website at http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html. You will
get a password back and will then have access to a protected area with
contact info for others attending OSH this year. You will then need to
send your payment along with EAA number to me. As we found out last
year, the EAA number is important! While last minute additions can be
accommodated, I'd like to make that the exception rather than the rule.
I can accept payment either by check or PayPal, but because PayPal
charges a fee to the recipient of about $7 on that amount, I'd ask that
you include that in your payment (total of $267) if you chose to go that
way. All of the sites will be paid for by check so you will get a
refund check directly from EAA as you leave the camping area if/when you
leave early. If you want to have a site staked out starting on 7/18,
please contact Tim directly.
A map will be posted as soon as we get the sites staked out. Even if
you don't chose to camp with us, please feel free to stop by.
Let the fun begin!
Bob Condrey
N442PM (#40105) flying
Message 10
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| Subject: | Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass
panel fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I
was told that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running
the avionics is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the charger
is not "conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car made
in Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part of
the avionics suite.
Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette
adapters including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my primary
battery - hot all the time. What is the best way to continually provide
"safe" power to my battery to support my avionics for extended use on
the ground?
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 425 Hours
RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
Thanks for kicking it off Bob!
I've been getting some of the web stuff in place for OSH 2008
already so you'll start seeing more and more information pop
up there regarding the show and our camping. There isn't
any urgent need to do anything TODAY on this, so digest it
and in June you should start nailing the plans down and sending
payments if you want to reserve campsites.
As Bob mentioned a couple times, I myself will be going over
Friday July 18th to grab my own site, and actually at least
4 others. We realize we'll be paying a little more for this,
but that's how first-come first-served works. Since we know
not everyone will want to pay perhaps $80 extra for the
earlier spot reservations, we'll juggle the requests accordingly.
Ideally we'd get the largest number possible in a contiguous
area. If you have a large camper, you may want to reserve
on the early side so you can choose large sites.
This year I'm pumped and ready to go. I even picked up a
brand new Honda generator this year just for the show.
If anyone wants my "used once" 2-cycle 1200W generator
that I had there last year, it's yours for under $100.
I'll be bringing the plane again this year of course, and
we welcome as large a crowd as we can gather.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Its that time! http://www.airventure.org/
>
>
>
> The past couple of years Gary Specketer and I (and Brenda and Susan)
> have arrived the Monday afternoon/evening before AirVenture starts and
> reserved/staked out camping sites Tuesday for others. This year
> AirVenture is starts on 7/27 and runs through 8/3 which means that well
> stake out the sites on Tuesday 7/22. Because our sites werent 100%
> contiguous last year we (Gary, Tim Olson and I) discussed the
> possibility of doing it even earlier this year but to have any
> measurable impact on location that would mean having to stake them out
> before the weekend and that means significant additional cost (+$80 per
> site) for little gain. We wouldnt get much closer but would
> potentially have the group closer together. As it was last year, we had
> about 4 groups of 4-8 sites each that were all either directly across or
> diagonally across from each other. If you are interested in reserving a
> site starting 7/18 instead of 7/22, Tim has offered to go over and stake
> them out.
>
>
>
> For those that havent participated before and/or need a refresher on
> how it works Camp Scholler is VERY large and EAA does not support
> reservations first come, first served. By arriving early the week
> prior weve always been able to get very close to the entrance just
> south of Hangars B and C. There are shower facilities along with a camp
> store within 5 minutes walking time of where we normally camp, but the
> sites themselves do not have water, sewer or electrical hookups. Many
> people have generators either built in or standalone and those are
> allowed between the hours of 6AM and 10PM. There is also a service that
> will dump the tanks on your RV (wheeled sort) for a reasonable fee. EAA
> will not allow sites to be staked out without registration tags and in
> order to get a tag you have to pay for the site. They charge a daily
> rate of $20 from the day the site is registered until the end of the
> show (counting Sunday night) and will refund any unused days if you
> leave early (with a 3 day minimum). That makes the total $260 if you
> were to stay for the entire show. Last year we did have several people
> come for the first few days and then hand off their site to somebody
> else that was only coming for that last few days. Tim posted a lot of
> info on his website along with attendee contact info to facilitate this
> coordination. For this you receive a campsite (approximately 20x30)
> registered in your name, a car pass which allows you to drive into Camp
> Scholler and the ability to park without additional cost. While you
> will likely have an empty camp site with your name on it for a few days,
> it will guarantee you a close spot.
>
>
>
> Last year we had 20+ sites and a few large group cookouts (not limited
> to campers) that were very popular and will do so again this year. Gary
> and I are willing to run and get the food etc. and provide wheels for
> those who need them. We will put out a free will offering basket and
> you can contribute what you think its worth. We dont want to make
> money on this but would like to offset the cost of food. If there is
> surplus well use it as seed money for the next night or for something
> to benefit the group. We dont have specific nights picked out if
> its anything like last year there will be several. We also had a
> surplus from the last evening cookout and will use that this year to
> acquire an extra site that wont have anybody camping on it and use
> that to supplement our seating/chatting/eating area.
>
>
>
> As Gary noted last year, we are just willing to serve, dont have all
> the details worked out and are open to suggestions. Let us know your
> thoughts and we will refine the plan. The one thing that wound up being
> difficult last year was decided which site to assign to each person.
> Last year we used a rationale based on arrival time and type of camper
> (we didnt put tent campers next to a Class A motor home, etc) and tried
> to take into account who would have kids along, etc. Were certainly
> open to ideas on this but until we actually get to OSH we wont know how
> things will be laid out.
>
>
>
> If you are interested in camping with the group you should first
> register on Tims website at http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html. You will
> get a password back and will then have access to a protected area with
> contact info for others attending OSH this year. You will then need to
> send your payment along with EAA number to me. As we found out last
> year, the EAA number is important! While last minute additions can be
> accommodated, Id like to make that the exception rather than the rule.
> I can accept payment either by check or PayPal, but because PayPal
> charges a fee to the recipient of about $7 on that amount, Id ask that
> you include that in your payment (total of $267) if you chose to go that
> way. All of the sites will be paid for by check so you will get a
> refund check directly from EAA as you leave the camping area if/when you
> leave early. If you want to have a site staked out starting on 7/18,
> please contact Tim directly.
>
>
>
> A map will be posted as soon as we get the sites staked out. Even if
> you dont chose to camp with us, please feel free to stop by.
>
>
>
> Let the fun begin!
>
>
>
> Bob Condrey
>
> N442PM (#40105) flying
>
> *
Message 12
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| Subject: | 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
Bob:
To what address should we send the campsite money?
I will have a van at the campsite, and would be happy to do whatever with
it.
Steve Mills N750SM (reserved)
RV-10 40486 Slow-build Eggenfellner E-6TI
Naperville, Illinois
Finishing kit, engine install
Do Not Archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 3:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
It's that time! http://www.airventure.org/
The past couple of years Gary Specketer and I (and Brenda and Susan) have
arrived the Monday afternoon/evening before AirVenture starts and
reserved/staked out camping sites Tuesday for others. This year AirVenture
is starts on 7/27 and runs through 8/3 which means that we'll stake out the
sites on Tuesday 7/22. Because our sites weren't 100% contiguous last year
we (Gary, Tim Olson and I) discussed the possibility of doing it even
earlier this year but to have any measurable impact on location that would
mean having to stake them out before the weekend and that means significant
additional cost (+$80 per site) for little gain. We wouldn't get much
closer but would potentially have the group closer together. As it was last
year, we had about 4 groups of 4-8 sites each that were all either directly
across or diagonally across from each other. If you are interested in
reserving a site starting 7/18 instead of 7/22, Tim has offered to go over
and stake them out.
For those that haven't participated before and/or need a refresher on how it
works - Camp Scholler is VERY large and EAA does not support reservations -
first come, first served. By arriving early the week prior we've always
been able to get very close to the entrance just south of Hangars B and C.
There are shower facilities along with a camp store within 5 minutes walking
time of where we normally camp, but the sites themselves do not have water,
sewer or electrical hookups. Many people have generators either built in or
standalone and those are allowed between the hours of 6AM and 10PM. There is
also a service that will dump the tanks on your RV (wheeled sort) for a
reasonable fee. EAA will not allow sites to be staked out without
registration tags and in order to get a tag you have to pay for the site.
They charge a daily rate of $20 from the day the site is registered until
the end of the show (counting Sunday night) and will refund any unused days
if you leave early (with a 3 day minimum). That makes the total $260 if you
were to stay for the entire show. Last year we did have several people come
for the first few days and then "hand off" their site to somebody else that
was only coming for that last few days. Tim posted a lot of info on his
website along with attendee contact info to facilitate this coordination.
For this you receive a campsite (approximately 20x30) registered in your
name, a car pass which allows you to drive into Camp Scholler and the
ability to park without additional cost. While you will likely have an
empty camp site with your name on it for a few days, it will guarantee you a
close spot.
Last year we had 20+ sites and a few large group cookouts (not limited to
campers) that were very popular and will do so again this year. Gary and I
are willing to run and get the food etc. and provide wheels for those who
need them. We will put out a free will offering basket and you can
contribute what you think its worth. We don't want to make money on this
but would like to offset the cost of food. If there is surplus we'll use it
as seed money for the next night or for something to benefit the group. We
don't have specific nights picked out - if it's anything like last year
there will be several. We also had a surplus from the last evening cookout
and will use that this year to acquire an "extra" site that won't have
anybody camping on it and use that to supplement our seating/chatting/eating
area.
As Gary noted last year, we are just willing to serve, don't have all the
details worked out and are open to suggestions. Let us know your thoughts
and we will refine the plan. The one thing that wound up being difficult
last year was decided which site to assign to each person. Last year we
used a rationale based on arrival time and type of camper (we didn't put
tent campers next to a Class A motor home, etc) and tried to take into
account who would have kids along, etc. We're certainly open to ideas on
this but until we actually get to OSH we won't know how things will be laid
out.
If you are interested in camping with the group you should first register on
Tim's website at http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html. You will get a password
back and will then have access to a protected area with contact info for
others attending OSH this year. You will then need to send your payment
along with EAA number to me. As we found out last year, the EAA number is
important! While last minute additions can be accommodated, I'd like to
make that the exception rather than the rule. I can accept payment either
by check or PayPal, but because PayPal charges a fee to the recipient of
about $7 on that amount, I'd ask that you include that in your payment
(total of $267) if you chose to go that way. All of the sites will be paid
for by check so you will get a refund check directly from EAA as you leave
the camping area if/when you leave early. If you want to have a site staked
out starting on 7/18, please contact Tim directly.
A map will be posted as soon as we get the sites staked out. Even if you
don't chose to camp with us, please feel free to stop by.
Let the fun begin!
Bob Condrey
N442PM (#40105) flying
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rigging-ailerons v flaps |
Following the directions from Vans mine were also up about the same so I
ajusted the push rods at the wing route.
Chris 388
----- Original Message -----
From: pilotdds@aol.com
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 2:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rigging-ailerons v flaps
I am reassembling control surfaces after new paint and have discovered
the ailerons are about .125 of an inch higher than the flaps in the
reflex position when measured at the trailing edge.The aircraft has 175
hours since my first flight.It has required significant rudder
trim-solved with a fixed tab,and a slightly heavy right wing-3 gallons
of fuel.The ailerons are symetrical when the stick is neutral that is
both trailing edges are above the flaps by an equal amount.Any thoughts
from other builders.
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 8:18 am
Subject: RV10-List: Silpruf / Window Installation and other magic
Hi
One the strength of Dave Saylor's recommendation and other comments, I
purchased the AirlinkTech video on using Silpruf to set install windows.
The video can be found at: http://tinyurl.com/2ndhr9
I watched the video last night and have a few comments, FWIW.
First, a big negative - it=99s on a VHS tape not on a DVD. After
that it was a very nice "how to" video.
In short the process used is to mask the windows and then set them in
place on small Silpruf standoffs that keep the windows flush with the
canopy. A bead of Silpuf is used to install the windows. Screw on clecos
are used to keep everything in pace while things dry.
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by
step. It explains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp
reveal. It also shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit.
A groove (about 1/8") is left between the windows and the canopy.
After painting, Silpruf is used to fill the groove. Apparently Silpruf
cannot be painted so you must pick a Silpuf colour that works with your
pain scheme.
At first blush there seems to be some obvious advantages to this
method they being:
=C2=B7 The Silpruf has a long working time so you
don=99t have to play =9Cbeat the clock=9D when
installing.
=C2=B7 The Silpruf is non reactive so you can use normal
masking tape to setup the =9Creveal=9D edges. You will have
lots of time to get everything just right before you have to remove the
masks.
=C2=B7 The Silpruf is flexible so there won=99t be
cracks in the paint / caulking around the windows
=C2=B7 In the event that a window needs to be replaced. It
would be a much easier job to remove & replace the window *I think*.
=C2=B7 You are not glassing onto a window with all the
associated issues with sanding etc. As someone mentioned in an earlier
post, with windows you can=99t fix a screw up with an OOPS rivet.
=C2=B7 Before curing and after, excess along the groove can be
easily removed.
A quick search shows that Silpruf is available in a wide choice of
colours including: White, Black, Limestone, Light Grey, Aluminium,
GreyDark, Grey, Precast White and Bronze.
Right after I watched the video I checked the plans to see how the
front window is installed. My recollection was there was no
=9Cjoggle=9D at the bottom of the front windscreen. Using
Silpruf on the front windscreen would, I think, require building a
joggle and then trimming the window to fit. I just noticed that Dave
noted this rework in one of his posts as well.
The video is very detailed and shows everything required, step by
step. It explains how and why to mask the windows to get a nice sharp
reveal. It also shows how to trim the windows for a perfect fit. If you
are contemplating using this method, get the video, it is well worth the
cost.
Anyway, I for one plan to use this method on the side windows. I still
have a lot of time to contemplate the front windscreen..
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 =93 moving from rivets to systems
C-GCWZ
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
://forums.matronics.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Stay informed, get connected and more with AOL on your phone.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
Below are two posts by Bob Nuckolls on the Aeroelectric list. Hope they
help. Larry
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
> <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> No replies to my initial post, so trying again....
>
> Should there be any issues in running my electrical system with a
> power supply instead of the alternater/engine running? I have a
> battery in the circuit (PC680).
> Do I need to connect the power supply directly to the battery or can I
> hook it to my shunt to simulate the power coming from the alternator?
>
> Just want to make sure that I don't fry anything.....
Some years ago I sold a 13.8 volt, 25A switchmode
power supply along with instructions on how to wire
it to the aircraft such that it emulated the ship's
alternator. This allowed a builder to fire up all but
the heaviest loads on the electrical system and to
exercise all the systems just as if the engine were
running and the alternator was turned ON.
If you have a well behaved power supply (13.8 volts
preferred, current limited against accidental shorts)
then you can basically hook it up about anywhere. Across
the battery is fine. This makes the battery master
capable of disconnecting your supply from system by
turning the battery master OFF.
See:
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=5386+PS
also, the various smart-chargers with more robust
outputs like those shown on pages 6 and 7 of:
http://www.schumacherproducts.com/assets/pdf/sec_catalog.pdf
can be used. Again, just connect across the battery,
plug into wall and use the battery master for
control.
Wall-Mart sells several of these models. Get one
with 10A or more capability.
Bob . . .
Second one:
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckollsr@cox.net>
At 09:50 PM 2/3/2006 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "J. Mcculley"
> ><mcculleyja@starpower.net>
> >
> >Can someone recommend a source/model of bench power supply using 110V AC
> >input with 12V DC output, capable of up to 15 amps DC? Thanks,
> >
> >Jim McCulley
>
Do you really want 12v . . . or are you interested in
simulating an operating vehicle? 13.8v is a nominal bench
supply setting for emulating bus voltage. Here's a supply
I used to sell until they got so cheap that the margins
didn't fit my business model any more . . .
http://www.radiodan.com/misc/samlex1223.htm
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hamps/3747.html
http://www.aaradio.com/cartfile/misc%20html/samlex.html
Bob . . .
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass
> panel fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I
> was told that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running
> the avionics is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the charger
> is not "conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
> Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car made
> in Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part of
> the avionics suite.
> Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette
> adapters including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my primary
> battery - hot all the time. What is the best way to continually provide
> "safe" power to my battery to support my avionics for extended use on
> the ground?
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 425 Hours
> RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping |
Payment can be made by check ($260) mailed to my home address:
Bob Condrey
706 South Fillmore Circle
Papillion, NE 68046
Or via PayPal ($267) using my email address:
bob.condrey (at) baesystems.com
Please make sure you register on Tim's website so that we've got your
info. Make sure that whatever method of payment you use that you
include your name, email address and EAA member number. I will drop you
a note via email to let you know that I've received it.
Feel free to email me direct or, if you're registered at at
http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html, give me a call if you have any questions
at the cell phone number listed for me.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
millstees@ameritech.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 4:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
Bob:
To what address should we send the campsite money?
I will have a van at the campsite, and would be happy to do whatever
with it.
Steve Mills N750SM (reserved)
RV-10 40486 Slow-build Eggenfellner E-6TI
Naperville, Illinois
Finishing kit, engine install
Do Not Archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 3:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 2008 OSH RV-10 HQ Camping
It's that time! http://www.airventure.org/
The past couple of years Gary Specketer and I (and Brenda and Susan)
have arrived the Monday afternoon/evening before AirVenture starts and
reserved/staked out camping sites Tuesday for others. This year
AirVenture is starts on 7/27 and runs through 8/3 which means that we'll
stake out the sites on Tuesday 7/22. Because our sites weren't 100%
contiguous last year we (Gary, Tim Olson and I) discussed the
possibility of doing it even earlier this year but to have any
measurable impact on location that would mean having to stake them out
before the weekend and that means significant additional cost (+$80 per
site) for little gain. We wouldn't get much closer but would
potentially have the group closer together. As it was last year, we had
about 4 groups of 4-8 sites each that were all either directly across or
diagonally across from each other. If you are interested in reserving a
site starting 7/18 instead of 7/22, Tim has offered to go over and stake
them out.
For those that haven't participated before and/or need a refresher on
how it works - Camp Scholler is VERY large and EAA does not support
reservations - first come, first served. By arriving early the week
prior we've always been able to get very close to the entrance just
south of Hangars B and C. There are shower facilities along with a camp
store within 5 minutes walking time of where we normally camp, but the
sites themselves do not have water, sewer or electrical hookups. Many
people have generators either built in or standalone and those are
allowed between the hours of 6AM and 10PM. There is also a service that
will dump the tanks on your RV (wheeled sort) for a reasonable fee. EAA
will not allow sites to be staked out without registration tags and in
order to get a tag you have to pay for the site. They charge a daily
rate of $20 from the day the site is registered until the end of the
show (counting Sunday night) and will refund any unused days if you
leave early (with a 3 day minimum). That makes the total $260 if you
were to stay for the entire show. Last year we did have several people
come for the first few days and then "hand off" their site to somebody
else that was only coming for that last few days. Tim posted a lot of
info on his website along with attendee contact info to facilitate this
coordination. For this you receive a campsite (approximately 20x30)
registered in your name, a car pass which allows you to drive into Camp
Scholler and the ability to park without additional cost. While you
will likely have an empty camp site with your name on it for a few days,
it will guarantee you a close spot.
Last year we had 20+ sites and a few large group cookouts (not limited
to campers) that were very popular and will do so again this year. Gary
and I are willing to run and get the food etc. and provide wheels for
those who need them. We will put out a free will offering basket and
you can contribute what you think its worth. We don't want to make
money on this but would like to offset the cost of food. If there is
surplus we'll use it as seed money for the next night or for something
to benefit the group. We don't have specific nights picked out - if
it's anything like last year there will be several. We also had a
surplus from the last evening cookout and will use that this year to
acquire an "extra" site that won't have anybody camping on it and use
that to supplement our seating/chatting/eating area.
As Gary noted last year, we are just willing to serve, don't have all
the details worked out and are open to suggestions. Let us know your
thoughts and we will refine the plan. The one thing that wound up being
difficult last year was decided which site to assign to each person.
Last year we used a rationale based on arrival time and type of camper
(we didn't put tent campers next to a Class A motor home, etc) and tried
to take into account who would have kids along, etc. We're certainly
open to ideas on this but until we actually get to OSH we won't know how
things will be laid out.
If you are interested in camping with the group you should first
register on Tim's website at http://www.myrv10.com/osh.html. You will
get a password back and will then have access to a protected area with
contact info for others attending OSH this year. You will then need to
send your payment along with EAA number to me. As we found out last
year, the EAA number is important! While last minute additions can be
accommodated, I'd like to make that the exception rather than the rule.
I can accept payment either by check or PayPal, but because PayPal
charges a fee to the recipient of about $7 on that amount, I'd ask that
you include that in your payment (total of $267) if you chose to go that
way. All of the sites will be paid for by check so you will get a
refund check directly from EAA as you leave the camping area if/when you
leave early. If you want to have a site staked out starting on 7/18,
please contact Tim directly.
A map will be posted as soon as we get the sites staked out. Even if
you don't chose to camp with us, please feel free to stop by.
Let the fun begin!
Bob Condrey
N442PM (#40105) flying
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
I've used an old computer ATX power supply - soldering several of the
12V wires together, as well as several of the ground wires together.
Battery bypassed altogether.
Cheap & effective.
Indran
On 22/05/2008, at 4:59 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass
> panel fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I
> was told that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running
> the avionics is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the
> charger
> is not "conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
> Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car
> made
> in Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part
> of
> the avionics suite.
> Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette
> adapters including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my
> primary
> battery - hot all the time. What is the best way to continually
> provide
> "safe" power to my battery to support my avionics for extended use on
> the ground?
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 425 Hours
> RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | tent camp site needed for THR,FRI,SAT |
Cluade and I plan to tent (8' by 8') camp on a site for the THR,FRI,SAT of
the show. We will attend the RV BBQ if we are there when it is held. I
already have purchased four tickets for the Vans dinner. If possible we will
camp on the end of some else's site and pay them for the three nights. Our
plan is to bring a tent and coffee making equipment and a beer cooler. we
will eat on the field. If someone will let us camp on the end of their site,
please advise off list.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
I endorse John's comments 100%. I followed the plans and had a right
wing tip 1/2" lower than the flaps/ailerons. The idea of a 'mini
aileron' on the right wing (causing a significantly 'heavy' left wing)
was not acceptable, so 12 build hours later and I am still reforming the
tip. Almost done, but attaching the tips without the flaps and ailerons
aligned is more a lottery than anything else.
Cheers
Ron
187 almost done.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Wednesday, 21 May 2008 9:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple
efficiency
--> <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Mike,
I strongly encourage you to drill the wing tip attach with the wing on
the plane and all control surfaces in the neutral position. Clamp a long
straightedge to the wingtip, aileron and flap edges. Otherwise the
wingtips will not align with the aileron tips. I had to do major surgery
with the wingtips to fix this problem
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting and final assembly
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency
Reference to page 24-3 of the plans on the installation of the wing
tips.
I have pre-fitted the tip using "step 1" and drilled/clecoed #40 the
attach holes. It seems to line up pretty good. I do not understand why
you want to remove the wing tip per "Step 2"
It would seem better to just finish drill #28 right thru the aluminum
and the fiberglass to maintain alignment and keep the fiberglass from
puckering.
After drilling you can detach the tip and do the dimpling, deburring,
countersinking and aligning the nut plates.
Is there something that I am missing here.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184139#184139
Checked by AVG.
5:04 PM
Checked by AVG.
5:04 PM
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 19
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| Subject: | Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
Standard Astron 20A regulated power supply, less than $100. There is no
need to have the battery connected.
Here is one of many places to buy one.
http://www.hamradio.com/web/newcat/hrocat6.pdf
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (400 hrs)
RV-10 (flaps)
On 22/05/2008, at 4:59 AM, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass
> panel fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I
> was told that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running
> the avionics is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the
> charger
> is not "conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
> Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car
> made
> in Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part
> of
> the avionics suite.
> Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette
> adapters including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my
> primary
> battery - hot all the time. What is the best way to continually
> provide
> "safe" power to my battery to support my avionics for extended use on
> the ground?
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 425 Hours
> RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | tent camp site needed for THR,FRI,SAT |
David,
I wouldn't hold your breath on the RV BBQ this year. The two main planne
rs/executers, Darwin Barrie and Bob Collins, have both dropped out of it an
d the entire online scene do to one too many insults in the last year. Wit
hout those two it wouldn't have happened. Immediately prior to this, Vans
had announced their intention to get out of the banquet business and combin
e with the RV BBQ. Although if you bought tickets, sounds like Van's decid
ed they need to go back to the old way.
Michael
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 5:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: tent camp site needed for THR,FRI,SAT
Cluade and I plan to tent (8' by 8') camp on a site for the THR,FRI,SAT of
the show. We will attend the RV BBQ if we are there when it is held. I alre
ady have purchased four tickets for the Vans dinner. If possible we will ca
mp on the end of some else's site and pay them for the three nights. Our pl
an is to bring a tent and coffee making equipment and a beer cooler. we wil
l eat on the field. If someone will let us camp on the end of their site, p
lease advise off list.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: GA airports for Chicago - Add on Detroit (Red Bull) |
Tim you might try Grosse Ile (Iden) KONZ. I am planning on flying in there. It
is about 30 minute drive. They are having a big carnival there that weekend for
kids also. I have flown in there before. You can get a car rental if you need
it. It is right on the river about 10 miles south of the races.
Geoff Combs
--------
Build QB RV-10 N829GW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184293#184293
Message 22
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I'm just finishing up my annual condition inspection and I've had two
A&P's ask me why my plane isn't equipped with a gascolator, to which I
didn't have a very good response other "I dunno". I searched the archive
a there were a couple of entries, one being from Randy DeBauw saying he
didn't know of any RV10 with a gascolator installed, but his post was
nearly three years ago. Has anyone installed or considering installing a
gascolator?
I know that the plans don't show or call for the installation of a
gascolator. The point they made with me is where does any accumulated
water in the fuel go then.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Heading up through Alaska next month with the 10.
Message 23
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I owned a C177RG for 29 years and the FAA ADed a gascolator after about
1977. In all those years I never had water in the gascolator or lower fuel
sumps. In fact I found water in the wing fuel tank sumps only twice after an
FBO pumped in the water from contaminated fuel/water. BTW; one of those
times was during OSH.
The only thing the gascolator provided was another maintenance item which
required changing the seals every few years which was always located in a
very difficult position on the firewall.
another A&Ps view
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 8:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gascolator
I'm just finishing up my annual condition inspection and I've had two A&P's
ask me why my plane isn't equipped with a gascolator, to which I didn't have
a very good response other "I dunno". I searched the archive a there were a
couple of entries, one being from Randy DeBauw saying he didn't know of any
RV10 with a gascolator installed, but his post was nearly three years ago.
Has anyone installed or considering installing a gascolator?
I know that the plans don't show or call for the installation of a
gascolator. The point they made with me is where does any accumulated water
in the fuel go then.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Heading up through Alaska next month with the 10.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
Very interesting and informative. It seems that the wing tips only affix to the
aluminum part ONE WAY - tight. But the trailing 8-10" seems to be the area in
question - is that correct ?
>From what I can extrapolate is it ok to affix the forward part (in front of the
aileron hinge) and then split the rear and install the reinforcing section
after the ailerons are fitted and trimmed for flight ?? That way the trailing
edge is perfectly trimmed with the aileron ???
Boy it is great having this resource !!!!! Kuddos to Matt.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184304#184304
Message 25
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Let me guess, these A&P's are used to working on high wing airplanes right? I
tell you, you give some guy a hammer and everything looks like a nail.
The primary purpose of a gascolator is to "filter" water out of fuel that settles.
It can capture settling water but even a gascolator cannot capture water
being forced by a pump. Since water is heavier than fuel, in order for a gascolator
to the perform its function, it needs to be at the lowest point in the
fuel system. In a high wing aircraft, gascolator placement at a point lower
than the fuel tanks is relatively easy. In a low wing aircraft it is difficult
to place a gascolator lower than the fuel tanks so any benefits from filtering
out settling water is negligible. You can certainly put one on a low wing
aircraft, however the benefits are typically not worth the effort.
The accumulated water go out the individual tank drains. Those are the lowest
point in the fuel system.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> I'm just finishing up my annual condition inspection and I've had two A&P's ask
me why my plane isn't equipped with a gascolator, to which I didn't have a
very good response other "I dunno". I searched the archive a there were a couple
of entries, one being from Randy DeBauw saying he didn't know of any RV10 with
a gascolator installed, but his post was nearly three years ago. Has anyone
installed or considering installing a gascolator?
>
> I know that the plans don't show or call for the installation of a gascolator.
The point they made with me is where does any accumulated water in the fuel
go then.
>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
>
> Heading up through Alaska next month with the 10.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit |
Robin,
About 3 years ago I built an APU for our needs here in the shop. It
consists of four medium size Walmart car batteries, a sturdy cart, a small
automatic trickle charger, and an old volt meter. We use it for starting
and for general 12V power supply needs. The trickle charger is hard wired
so when it's plugged in, it's charging. We plug it in overnight about once
a week. I don't think I've ever seen it drop below about 11.5 volts. It's
jumped a lot of dead batteries and seen several people through the new panel
fiddling stage, completely worry free. I think I have about $200 in it.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 1:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Ground Power Unit / Auxiliary Power Unit
I am approaching the point where I will need to have my glass panel
fully operational for hours on end while sitting in my hangar. I was told
that hooking up a battery charger to my battery while running the avionics
is a BAD idea as the electrical current out of the charger is not
"conditioned" and the power spikes could damage my avionics.
Whoops... Seems to me that for the price of a mid-sized luxury car made in
Stuttgart there would be an inline electrical conditioner as part of the
avionics suite.
Back to my question. I have placed several 12V cigarette adapters
including one in the baggage area plumbed direct to my primary battery - hot
all the time. What is the best way to continually provide "safe" power to my
battery to support my avionics for extended use on the ground?
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 425 Hours
RV-10 Avionics Up & Running (Draining)
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple efficiency |
I have no experience with splitting the trailing edge and attempting
re-alignemnt. I think I read that Tim O. tried this and had to abandon
a tip in favour of a new one, so I did not even try. I think I have
also seen a post (from Jesse) about forming ('twisting?' the nose of the
LE to raise/lower the aft edge. There is a bit in the archives on this.
I would suggest the following order:
1. make certain the flap and aileron are on the wing and in the
trail position (flap fully up)
2. align the trailing edge with aileron/flap (use tape to attach
the tip to the wing)
3. drill the tip to the fuse
4. attach the tip.
5. Check the length of the tip - if the tip is too long, remove it
and apply some epoxy to beef up the inside of the TE in case you need to
remove the epoxy at the the existing TE join. From what I can tell, you
really don't want to separate the trailing edge.
6. trim the tip and shape as required.
YMMV, but this is what I would do if I had to do it again.
Hope this helps
Ron
187
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Thursday, 22 May 2008 2:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Fiberglass Wing Tip Installation - simple
efficiency
Very interesting and informative. It seems that the wing tips only affix
to the aluminum part ONE WAY - tight. But the trailing 8-10" seems to be
the area in question - is that correct ?
>From what I can extrapolate is it ok to affix the forward part (in
front of the aileron hinge) and then split the rear and install the
reinforcing section after the ailerons are fitted and trimmed for flight
?? That way the trailing edge is perfectly trimmed with the aileron ???
Boy it is great having this resource !!!!! Kuddos to Matt.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=184304#184304
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
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