Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:34 AM - Baggage door (Dave Leikam)
2. 09:04 AM - Re: Baggage door (Tim Olson)
3. 09:08 AM - Re: Baggage door (Fred Williams, M.D.)
4. 03:10 PM - garmin 430 tube question (Chris)
5. 03:39 PM - Initial Canopy trimming (tomhanaway)
6. 03:52 PM - Re: Initial Canopy trimming (Dave Lammers)
7. 03:58 PM - Re: Initial Canopy trimming (johngoodman)
8. 04:18 PM - Re: Initial Canopy trimming (Tim Olson)
9. 04:47 PM - Re: garmin 430 tube question (orchidman)
10. 05:01 PM - Re: Re: garmin 430 tube question (Chris)
11. 05:24 PM - Re: Initial Canopy trimming (AirMike)
12. 05:29 PM - Re: Baggage door (AirMike)
13. 05:35 PM - Re: wire tying inside conduit? (AirMike)
14. 05:58 PM - Re: Re: garmin 430 tube question (Deems Davis)
15. 07:00 PM - Re: garmin 430 tube question (Jesse Saint)
16. 07:42 PM - (McGANN, Ron)
17. 07:44 PM - Exhaust Probe location (McGANN, Ron)
18. 08:08 PM - Re: Exhaust Probe location (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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I just finished my baggage door and noticed that the
panels are a bit soft due to no stiffeners inside. I was thinking of
squirting a small amount of great stuff in there to add a bit of
support. I would lay the door on a flat surface and put even pressure
on the door during curing to keep it flat.
They do not oil can. Just a thought, has anyone noticed an issue here?
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door |
I haven't noticed anything bad on the baggage door. I think I did
line mine with that black soundproofing foam though. They didn't
oilcan either. I'm not sure if I'd go the great-stuff route, but
if you're interested in giving it some backing perhaps just a
sponge foam block or something glued in. I'm wondering if a
natural sponge wouldn't be better than a synthetic one for
fire reasons? Of course, closed cell foam would be better
for moisture reasons. I don't think you'll have an issue
with the door though, so filling it is probably something more
to think about for sound or heat than anything else.
I'm just not too sure that great stuff would be the right thing.
Especially if it expanded and bowed the door at all.
All in all though, you're talking about one of the lesser-critical
areas, so probably no idea would be too awful.
Tim
Dave Leikam wrote:
> I just finished my baggage door and noticed that the
> panels are a bit soft due to no stiffeners inside. I was thinking of
> squirting a /small/ amount of great stuff in there to add a bit of
> support. I would lay the door on a flat surface and put even pressure
> on the door during curing to keep it flat.
> They do not oil can. Just a thought, has anyone noticed an issue here?
> Dave Leikam
> #40496 N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
> *
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door |
Dave;
I went out and looked at my door again. I think it's just the
lightweight aluminum door. Probably be all right to add some
stiffness. I saw a good idea on my friend's 10. On the inside top
rail, there is a forming hole about 2-3 inches from the hinge. Before
you pop rivet the door inside, put a number 6 platenut there. Then,
when the door is attached, run a 18 AWG wire with a ring terminal on
each end. One on the door and one on the inside of the crossmember.
You now have a simple catch to keep the door (and your keys) from
swinging all the way open and damaging your paint job. One of those
simple things to do in construction, but hard to do when everything is
all riveted in.
Dr Fred.
In wiring heaven
Dave Leikam wrote:
> I just finished my baggage door and noticed that the
> panels are a bit soft due to no stiffeners inside. I was thinking of
> squirting a /small/ amount of great stuff in there to add a bit of
> support. I would lay the door on a flat surface and put even pressure
> on the door during curing to keep it flat.
> They do not oil can. Just a thought, has anyone noticed an issue here?
> Dave Leikam
> #40496 N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
> *
>
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | garmin 430 tube question |
I am wondering if someone can help with the placement of the tube/tray
relative to the front of the panel. I noticed that the bottom front lip
of the tray sticks out about 3/32 farther than the top and sides of the
tray. All the diagrams of the tubes don't seem to show this. So, does
the bottom lip get mounted flush with the panel (aft side /cabin side)
or does it stick out to the cabin side of the panel and the sides and
top edges are flush? What gives? I just have trays now.
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
Message 5
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| Subject: | Initial Canopy trimming |
I just want to double check on canopy trimming.
With the canopy fitting nicely and flush within the door space, I still have about
3/16" of jog space exposed on both sides of the rear bottom of the canopy
over the mid side skin. Lip is cut back to just under 3/4" so it isn't bottoming
and preventing canopy from going all the way down.
So-- I've already trimmed past the scribe marks in the doorway area. It looks
like if I trim (the door area) enough to bring the back lower part of the canopy
flush with the jog line, I'll have sanded away almost all of the bottom of
the canopy door frame.
Does this sound familiar???
Thanks,
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186877#186877
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
Tom,
Sounds very familiar.
Grit your teeth and sand away.
Dave Lammers
finishing
tomhanaway wrote:
>
>I just want to double check on canopy trimming.
>With the canopy fitting nicely and flush within the door space, I still have about
3/16" of jog space exposed on both sides of the rear bottom of the canopy
over the mid side skin. Lip is cut back to just under 3/4" so it isn't bottoming
and preventing canopy from going all the way down.
>
>So-- I've already trimmed past the scribe marks in the doorway area. It looks
like if I trim (the door area) enough to bring the back lower part of the canopy
flush with the jog line, I'll have sanded away almost all of the bottom of
the canopy door frame.
>
>Does this sound familiar???
>Thanks,
>Tom
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186877#186877
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
Tom,
I recently did mine and I'll admit it get's pretty thin on the bottom. However,
I think the plans show an outside measure of a little over an inch in that area.
I'm not looking at the plans so I can't be specific.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186880#186880
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
Yep, that's how it turns out. You'll want to fill that area anyway to
smooth it for painting, so just drill and rivet and keep on moving
forward if everything else looks good.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
tomhanaway wrote:
>
> I just want to double check on canopy trimming.
> With the canopy fitting nicely and flush within the door space, I still have
about 3/16" of jog space exposed on both sides of the rear bottom of the canopy
over the mid side skin. Lip is cut back to just under 3/4" so it isn't bottoming
and preventing canopy from going all the way down.
>
> So-- I've already trimmed past the scribe marks in the doorway area. It looks
like if I trim (the door area) enough to bring the back lower part of the canopy
flush with the jog line, I'll have sanded away almost all of the bottom of
the canopy door frame.
>
> Does this sound familiar???
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186877#186877
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: garmin 430 tube question |
toaster73(at)embarqmail.c wrote:
> I am wondering if someone can help with the placement of the tube/tray relative
to the front of the panel. I noticed that the bottom front lip of the tray
sticks out about 3/32 farther than the top and sides of the tray. All the diagrams
of the tubes don't seem to show this. So, does the bottom lip get mounted
flush with the panel (aft side /cabin side) or does it stick out to the
cabin side of the panel and the sides and top edges are flush? What gives?
I just have trays now.
> Thanks
> Chris Lucas
> #40072
>
Chris,
Sounds like you have the tray only at this time and not the actual unit. The bottom
lip needs to be flush with the front of the panel.
If you were cutting out a hole only for this single instrument, you would cut the
hole the dimensions of the inside of the tray plus for the height, add the
thickness of the bottom lip.
So the sides would be even with the inside of the tray, the top even with the top
inside of the tray and for the bottom, the lip would be sticking through even
with the front of the instrument panel and resting on the bottom of the hole.
Now this would be a perfect world, so you would have to add some to the width
and height to allow for clearances.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186888#186888
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: garmin 430 tube question |
Yep, I only have the trays now. I see what your saying. I have this as part
of a stack. The GTX327 is this way too I think. But, the sl30 and gma340 do
not have the lip.
thanks
-Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "orchidman" <gary@wingscc.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 7:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: garmin 430 tube question
>
>
> toaster73(at)embarqmail.c wrote:
>> I am wondering if someone can help with the placement of the tube/tray
>> relative to the front of the panel. I noticed that the bottom front lip
>> of the tray sticks out about 3/32 farther than the top and sides of the
>> tray. All the diagrams of the tubes don't seem to show this. So, does
>> the bottom lip get mounted flush with the panel (aft side /cabin side)
>> or does it stick out to the cabin side of the panel and the sides and
>> top edges are flush? What gives? I just have trays now.
>> Thanks
>> Chris Lucas
>> #40072
>>
>
> Chris,
> Sounds like you have the tray only at this time and not the actual unit.
> The bottom lip needs to be flush with the front of the panel.
> If you were cutting out a hole only for this single instrument, you would
> cut the hole the dimensions of the inside of the tray plus for the height,
> add the thickness of the bottom lip.
> So the sides would be even with the inside of the tray, the top even with
> the top inside of the tray and for the bottom, the lip would be sticking
> through even with the front of the instrument panel and resting on the
> bottom of the hole. Now this would be a perfect world, so you would have
> to add some to the width and height to allow for clearances.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186888#186888
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Initial Canopy trimming |
Welcome to fiberglass purgatory. Almost all escape - some day.
Those of us who have escaped, occasionally hear the midnight screaming of those
who are still there. Trim - Fit - check - remove...........
[Rolling Eyes] [Rolling Eyes]
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186893#186893
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Baggage door |
I do not know about using great stuff. It may be corrosive to the aluminum in the
initial set stage. Also, I have noticed in the construction that I have done,
that it seems to expand (from within) even after it is quite firm. I would
worry about it bowing out unless it was held in a VERY secure press situation
till it was fully set (24 hrs). Still corrosion and water capture would be my
big concerns
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186896#186896
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: wire tying inside conduit? |
Secure them at the ends with a cushion clamp or a bit of RTV after you put a bit
of tension on the wires. The kinks and bends in the conduit will keep the wires
from jumping around with a bit of tension on the ends. Like deems said don't
look for trouble.
Also if you are concerned, always add an extra #18-22 wire to provide for any future
add-ons.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=186897#186897
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: garmin 430 tube question |
And just to make it fun for you the width of the SL30, is different from
the width of the 327 :-)
do not archive
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Chris wrote:
>
> Yep, I only have the trays now. I see what your saying. I have this as
> part of a stack. The GTX327 is this way too I think. But, the sl30 and
> gma340 do not have the lip.
> thanks
> -Chris
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: garmin 430 tube question |
If you look up "radiorax" and get dimensions that they use for the
screws, that should be a good basis for all of your instruments. You
can actually mount it further in or out as it suits you, but going
with the standard dimensions that the radiorax people use is a good
bet. All of your instruments should use this same dimension. Using
that dimension on the screw holes will put the tray where it needs to
be.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 8, 2008, at 6:07 PM, Chris wrote:
> I am wondering if someone can help with the placement of the tube/
> tray relative to the front of the panel. I noticed that the bottom
> front lip of the tray sticks out about 3/32 farther than the top and
> sides of the tray. All the diagrams of the tubes don't seem to show
> this. So, does the bottom lip get mounted flush with the panel (aft
> side /cabin side) or does it stick out to the cabin side of the
> panel and the sides and top edges are flush? What gives? I just have
> trays now.
> Thanks
> Chris Lucas
> #40072
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Exhaust Probe location |
G'day all,
GRTs web site has been off the air for a few days. Anyone know how far the
EGT probes need to be positioned from the exhaust ports?
cheers,
Ron
187 almost done
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust Probe location |
I believe most analyzer vendors have a recommendation. EI suggests 1.5
inches below flange. All of my IO-360 stacks happened to have a
witness hole at that distance that was easy to drill for the probes.
Seems to work fine.
Probes may live longer further down the stack. Main critical item is
that all probes are at same distance.
On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 7:41 PM, McGANN, Ron <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com> wrote:
> G'day all,
>
> GRTs web site has been off the air for a few days. Anyone know how far the
> EGT probes need to be positioned from the exhaust ports?
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> 187 almost done
>
> "Warning:
> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
> your computer."
>
>
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