Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:25 AM - Re: Rudder Gust Lock (David McNeill)
2. 04:27 AM - Re: GTR serial connections (William Curtis)
3. 05:42 AM - Boone, IA Flyin anyone? ()
4. 12:06 PM - Air body saw cheap (Tim Olson)
5. 01:30 PM - cutting holes in the firewall (Ben Westfall)
6. 02:01 PM - Re: cutting holes in the firewall (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
7. 02:01 PM - Re: cutting holes in the firewall (Dave Lammers)
8. 03:24 PM - Re: cutting holes in the firewall (Tim Olson)
9. 04:05 PM - Re: cutting holes in the firewall (Bob-tcw)
10. 04:25 PM - Re: cutting holes in the firewall (Tim Olson)
11. 06:03 PM - Re: Doors/Plexi revisited ... again (Lew Gallagher)
12. 06:06 PM - Re: cutting holes in the firewall (John Cox)
13. 07:14 PM - door pins (Robert Wright)
14. 08:43 PM - Officially a Builder (Kelly McMullen)
15. 09:13 PM - Re: Officially a Builder (pascal)
16. 09:30 PM - Re: Officially a Builder (Dave Leikam)
17. 09:33 PM - Re: Officially a Builder (John Cumins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Rudder Gust Lock |
It seems to me that it may work fine for winds of 10kts or so but in really
strong winds it may have problems. The rope around the strobe may slip and
the rudder will be free to move and get damaged. Secondly the attach points
on the horizontal stab are putting a load on the stab that it was not
designed to carry. That is a twisting rocking motion that lasts for as long
as the aircraft is parked outside in the wind.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 9:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Gust Lock
When I tie down in the open I secure the rudder with a cord after using the
seat belt to hold the stick aft and centered. Works OK but I'm thinking of
using a short piece of rubber tube with a hold cut in it for the tail
light/strobe to stick thru.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 2
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| Subject: | GTR serial connections |
First you must understand the the GNS-430 has 2 ARINC INPUT ports but only ONE
ARINC OUTPUT port. Also ARINC is a buss so dedicating it to one output device
is kind of limiting. Ideally the single GNS-430W ARINC OUT should be connected
to the EFIS, the TruTrak AND the 330 transponder if you have one. If you make
the GNS-430W ARINC OUTPUT dedicated to the TruTrak, you are then limited to
using GPSS L and V ONLY with the 430. You should still have basic autopilot
using the RS-232 from the EFIS to the TruTrak. For full GPSS from the EFIS,
you will need a switch between the GNS-430 ARINC OUT, the EFIS ARINC OUT and the
TruTrak ARINC IN. This should allow you to get the full benefit of the Sorcerer
with the EFIS.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Gentlemen,
>
>
>
> I have the three screen Horizon GTR system with the ARINC 429 module on
> display 1, GPS on display 2, and display three has nothing.
>
> GNS 430
>
> SL30
>
> GTX330
>
> Sorcerer Autopilot.
>
>
>
> My problem is the Grand Rapids EFIS will not send commands to the Sorcerer.
> The 430 will drive the autopilot but intermittently loses the GPSS
> suggesting that the serial connection is OK but there is a problem with the
> ARINC429. Trutrak documentation stated both Serial and ARINC 429 are needed
> for GPSS and GPSV.
>
>
>
> In the Grand Rapids documentation they say the ARINC 429 can be connected to
> as many devices as you wish. A friend suggested that I provide a dedicated
> ARINC 429 connection between the 430 and the Sorcerer. I think all of the
> ARINC 429 connections to the 430 have been used.
>
>
>
> Does anybody have any suggestions?? GTR has been helpful but they don't
> seem to know what is going on here.
>
>
>
> Ron Grover
Message 3
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| Subject: | Boone, IA Flyin anyone? |
I'm planning to fly up to the RV Flyin in Boone, Iowa tomorrow morning, is anyone
else planning on flying in?
Ray Doerr
N519RV (40250)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Air body saw cheap |
Just thought I'd pass this along....since after building a plane
I ended up addicted to Harbor Freight.
The High-Speed air body saw: 91753-5BPB is on sale now for $14.99.
I found it useful a few times, but especially for the landing
lights in the wingtip...it worked great for that.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | cutting holes in the firewall |
I am wondeing what methods people used to cut holes in their firewall. I've
seen some pretty bunged up holes and some real clean ones. I'm interested
in knowing how to make "clean ones" in case that wasn't clear. I doubt a
unibit cuts them very cleanly and I imagine the stainless toasts them
quickly. Are there punches that work better and where did people buy them
if so? Harbor Freight has a cheap set but I don't know if it works on
stainless very well. I need to punch the holes for the battery cable and
the throttle/prop/mixture.
Ben Westfall
#40579
PDX
Message 6
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| Subject: | cutting holes in the firewall |
Actually the type of stainless in our firewalls isn't too bad to drill.
I use regular drill bits and step bits in mine without a problem. Only way
you are going to get extremely clean holes are with lots of patience, a pu
nch tool like used for panels, or a CNC machine. I think you will find the
normal methods to be just fine though.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 3:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cutting holes in the firewall
I am wondeing what methods people used to cut holes in their firewall. I'v
e seen some pretty bunged up holes and some real clean ones. I'm intereste
d in knowing how to make "clean ones" in case that wasn't clear. I doubt a
unibit cuts them very cleanly and I imagine the stainless toasts them quic
kly. Are there punches that work better and where did people buy them if s
o? Harbor Freight has a cheap set but I don't know if it works on stainles
s very well. I need to punch the holes for the battery cable and the throt
tle/prop/mixture.
Ben Westfall
#40579
PDX
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: cutting holes in the firewall |
Ben,
The set from HF works great on the FW SS. I used it on mine. Made two
nice holes.
Dave Lammers
Forever Finishing.
Ben Westfall wrote:
> I am wondeing what methods people used to cut holes in their firewall.
> I've seen some pretty bunged up holes and some real clean ones. I'm
> interested in knowing how to make "clean ones" in case that wasn't
> clear. I doubt a unibit cuts them very cleanly and I imagine the
> stainless toasts them quickly. Are there punches that work better and
> where did people buy them if so? Harbor Freight has a cheap set but I
> don't know if it works on stainless very well. I need to punch the
> holes for the battery cable and the throttle/prop/mixture.
>
>
>
> Ben Westfall
>
> #40579
>
> PDX
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: cutting holes in the firewall |
My unibit holes weren't all I wanted them to be. I think greenlee
punches would be great for the job. If I were doing it again I'd
check out the harbor freight punches and at least give that a shot
first. But, a unibit will do OK if you're willing to do some heavy
deburring.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Ben Westfall wrote:
> I am wondeing what methods people used to cut holes in their firewall.
> Ive seen some pretty bunged up holes and some real clean ones. Im
> interested in knowing how to make clean ones in case that wasnt
> clear. I doubt a unibit cuts them very cleanly and I imagine the
> stainless toasts them quickly. Are there punches that work better and
> where did people buy them if so? Harbor Freight has a cheap set but I
> dont know if it works on stainless very well. I need to punch the
> holes for the battery cable and the throttle/prop/mixture.
>
>
>
> Ben Westfall
>
> #40579
>
> PDX
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: cutting holes in the firewall |
I have greenlee punches and some high quality uni-bits, I found that hands
down the uni-bit was the way to go. With the punches, at the very end of
pulling the punch through the metal the slug would get bound up between the
punch and the die. With the uni-bits I found the secret to success was
drilling a little at a time from both sides. This would keep the burr
from getting very big, the result was very clean accurate holes.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: cutting holes in the firewall |
I think you're definitely right there about drilling from both
sides. My holes were good other than that big burr. But, my
major mistake was letting 2 unibit holes touch....once they
hit eachother, it was all down hill from there. I had to
cut out the area and rivet in a stainless patch with fresh
holes drilled in it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Bob-tcw wrote:
>
> I have greenlee punches and some high quality uni-bits, I found that
> hands down the uni-bit was the way to go. With the punches, at the
> very end of pulling the punch through the metal the slug would get bound
> up between the punch and the die. With the uni-bits I found the
> secret to success was drilling a little at a time from both sides.
> This would keep the burr from getting very big, the result was very
> clean accurate holes.
>
> -Bob Newman
> TCW Technologies
> www.tcwtech.com
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Doors/Plexi revisited ... again |
In response to off line questions about the die grinder I use, a picture is easier
and I'll just post it here in case others are interested.
I noticed Harbor Frt. has one for about $30, the quick release disk came from a
body shop supply, extra disks came from Grainger.
This is an extremely useful tool for rough shaping small areas of fiberglass, aluminum,
etc. But it is aggressive with high speed and small area, so practice
a bit first.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
doors almost finished, pants on, WHEW!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187818#187818
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/die_grinder_medium_107.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/die_sander_medium_101.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/shallow_472.jpg
Message 12
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| Subject: | cutting holes in the firewall |
Ben, I have the Harbor Freight punches (which you are welcome to borrow)
and found them inferior on aluminum. At work, we use a hydraulic punch
which I might be able to borrow.
the unibit and possibly multiple are the best bet for 10 builders.
Sharing the size and locations with future builders would allow them to
use other techniques before the wall is installed.
John Cox
#40600
PDX - UAO
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 1:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cutting holes in the firewall
I am wondeing what methods people used to cut holes in their firewall.
I've seen some pretty bunged up holes and some real clean ones. I'm
interested in knowing how to make "clean ones" in case that wasn't
clear. I doubt a unibit cuts them very cleanly and I imagine the
stainless toasts them quickly. Are there punches that work better and
where did people buy them if so? Harbor Freight has a cheap set but I
don't know if it works on stainless very well. I need to punch the
holes for the battery cable and the throttle/prop/mixture.
Ben Westfall
#40579
PDX
Message 13
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|
I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm tryin
g to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams.- Each time I lat
ch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out of its happy pla
ce and leaves a gap.- Looks like the only solution is to oversize the hol
e in the direction that will allow the pin to slide straight in and latch,
then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin in place.- =0AI could then
patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill-the final hole's location in th
e patch.=0AOr should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wo
uldn't then emerge from the door without binding.=0ARight now it looks like
it's only the forward pin on the left door.=0AEverything else was done per
plans, which of course in this fiberglass stuff means, "hey, here are some
guidelines, now just figure it out until it works!"=0AVery frustrating, so
I quit for the night before I get drastic and make a huge hole that I don'
t need or want.=0ARob Wright=0A#392=0ADoors...Thought I'd be done with them
by tomorrow...=0A=0A=0A
Message 14
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| Subject: | Officially a Builder |
June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
Kelly
Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
All my shipments came FedEx Freight. They were initially the least expensive
(we receive the Van's discount) than I requested they ship the rest of my
kits FedEx since they did a great job each time.
Congratulations!
Pascal
#40720
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 8:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Officially a Builder
>
> June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
> Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
> informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
> away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
> to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
> it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
>
> Kelly
> Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
Welcome!
Dave Leikam
#40496 N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 10:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Officially a Builder
>
> June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
> Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
> informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
> away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
> to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
> it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
>
> Kelly
> Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Officially a Builder |
Congratts Kelly. My kit showed up yesterday.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 8:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Officially a Builder
June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
Kelly
Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
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