Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:58 AM - Re: door pins (PJ Seipel)
2. 06:01 AM - Re: cutting holes in the firewall (Rick Sked)
3. 06:03 AM - Re: Officially a Builder (Rick Sked)
4. 06:24 AM - Re: Air body saw cheap (MauleDriver)
5. 09:14 AM - Re: door pins (steven dinieri)
6. 10:26 AM - Re: door pins (Jim Berry)
7. 10:32 AM - Re: Air body saw cheap (Jim Berry)
8. 10:57 AM - Re: door pins (MauleDriver)
9. 11:05 AM - Panel extended or work-around of lower panel support flange (tomhanaway)
10. 11:33 AM - Re: Panel extended or work-around of lower panel support flange (Rick Sked)
11. 12:24 PM - ENGINE 540 EBAY (David McNeill)
12. 12:46 PM - Re: door pins (Bill DeRouchey)
13. 01:31 PM - Re: Officially a Builder (orchidman)
14. 01:45 PM - Rosen Visor Group-Buy again (Jesse Saint)
15. 01:47 PM - SB package arrived today (orchidman)
16. 01:56 PM - Re: Panel extended or work-around of lower panel support flange (Jesse Saint)
17. 02:03 PM - Certified O-540 NIB (Jesse Saint)
18. 02:03 PM - IO540 need an engine? (David McNeill)
19. 02:23 PM - Re: Re: Officially a Builder (Neal George)
20. 03:18 PM - Re: Re: Officially a Builder (Kelly McMullen)
21. 05:44 PM - Re: IO540 need an engine? (Kelly McMullen)
22. 06:19 PM - Re: Rosen Visor Group-Buy again (David Hertner)
23. 10:54 PM - EIS 6000 question (Im7shannon@AOL.COM)
Message 1
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I had that problem originally. Before you do anything drastic,
lubricate your door rods with some 3-in-1 oil, especially where they go
through the plastic blocks. Also, make sure you haven't over bent
them. I found that when I took some, but not all of the bend out of the
rods, that they moved much more smoothly.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Robert Wright wrote:
> I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm
> trying to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams. Each
> time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out
> of its happy place and leaves a gap. Looks like the only solution is
> to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide
> straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin
> in place.
>
> I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final
> hole's location in the patch.
>
> Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't
> then emerge from the door without binding.
>
> Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.
>
> Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass
> stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out
> until it works!"
>
> Very frustrating, so I quit for the night before I get drastic and
> make a huge hole that I don't need or want.
>
> Rob Wright
> #392
> Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: cutting holes in the firewall |
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
I had good luck with FedEx....I think ABF stands for Always Broken with Forklift.
Anyone had the nerve to add up all their shipping costs? Jeezz it sucks.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 11:40:19 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RV10-List: Officially a Builder
June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
Kelly
Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Air body saw cheap |
I picked up one last time it was on sale for 14.99. A good deal. Some
observations
1) Save your receipt - my saw failed while working on the fiberglass
top. Couldn't figure out what broke but it is RIP. Not a big deal at
$15 but I couldn't find the receipt for a warranty return. (but I am by
no means recommending the HF extended warranty)
2) If you plan to use it on fiberglass - get lot's of blades. Or
better yet, see if you can find or fashion a carbide grit blade for it.
That would be a fiberglass master tool for many of the canopy cuts. I
ended up with a carbide grit blade on a (too big) reciprocating saw and
cutting down the width of the saw so it would turn a tighter radius.
Worked well... the HF saw would have been perfect with a grit saw blade.
3) Tim has a very steady head and nerves of steel. I did a cutout for
my wingtip lights and scared the living crap out of myself. I used a
die grinder and a hand file on the other one.
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Just thought I'd pass this along....since after building a plane
> I ended up addicted to Harbor Freight.
>
> The High-Speed air body saw: 91753-5BPB is on sale now for $14.99.
> I found it useful a few times, but especially for the landing
> lights in the wingtip...it worked great for that.
>
Message 5
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i've found that if i polish the rods with polish/rouge to a nice shine then
dab a bit of boelube on them they will slide verry smoothly. i'd avoid
anything that may attract dirt later. even a silicone dry lube would be
good. on the extreme end i did have one plactic block that was way too
tight. i chucked the door rod in my cordless drill and ran the rod in the
block till it got warm, let everything cool, and it tested much better. of
coarse ymmv....
steven dinieri
iflyrv10.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "PJ Seipel" <seipel@seznam.cz>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door pins
>
> I had that problem originally. Before you do anything drastic,
> lubricate your door rods with some 3-in-1 oil, especially where they go
> through the plastic blocks. Also, make sure you haven't over bent
> them. I found that when I took some, but not all of the bend out of the
> rods, that they moved much more smoothly.
>
> PJ Seipel
> RV-10 #40032
>
> Robert Wright wrote:
> > I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm
> > trying to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams. Each
> > time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out
> > of its happy place and leaves a gap. Looks like the only solution is
> > to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide
> > straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin
> > in place.
> >
> > I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final
> > hole's location in the patch.
> >
> > Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't
> > then emerge from the door without binding.
> >
> > Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.
> >
> > Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass
> > stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out
> > until it works!"
> >
> > Very frustrating, so I quit for the night before I get drastic and
> > make a huge hole that I don't need or want.
> >
> > Rob Wright
> > #392
> > Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
Message 6
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I reamed my delrin blocks 1/64" oversize(reamer available from Grainger). That
was enough clearance to account for the slight angle the door pins have relative
to the blocks, but not so much as to have any slop when the door is locked
shut.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187880#187880
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Air body saw cheap |
I used my saw for a lot of things, but found the HF blades near worthless. Has
anyone found a better quality, ready to use blade that will fit this saw? I would
rather build airplanes than saw blades (just in case I become a repeat offender).
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187881#187881
Message 8
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FWIW, I just finished fitting the doors with the Rivethead pin and block
set (similar perhaps to Steve DiNieri's). Though I did a lot of 'heming
and 'hawing trying to figure out how to best fit them, it ended up being
very easy to get a great fit. The bullet shaped rod end and the
matching pin blocks really work nicely to 'rack' then lock the door in
place. See the Youtube video:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=UMJ5ZLT8OTo
I can't easily describe the installation procedure I used but it worked
much more easily than I could have imagined. And seemed a lot more
straight forward than the Van's design. Only tip I can easily give is
that the nylon blocks on the doors need to fit as far back into their
recesses on the door as possible. That is, they need to more recessed
than just flush with the edge of the recess - another 1/16 to 1/8"
seemed critical.
Robert Wright wrote:
> I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now I'm
> trying to fit them in the 7/16" holes drill in the door jams. Each
> time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out
> of its happy place and leaves a gap. Looks like the only solution is
> to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide
> straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin
> in place.
>
> I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final
> hole's location in the patch.
>
> Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't
> then emerge from the door without binding.
>
> Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.
>
> Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass
> stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out
> until it works!"
>
> Very frustrating, so I quit for the night before I get drastic and
> make a huge hole that I don't need or want.
>
> Rob Wright
> #392
> Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 9
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| Subject: | Panel extended or work-around of lower panel support flange |
I'd like to get rid of the line of nut plates along the bottom of the panel to
make the whole lower flange area of the panel (F-1003B) useable without interference
and still have structural rigidity.
I understand one alternative might be Stein's extended panel but I'm concerned
about conflict with forward movement of control stick.
Another might be to have a single piece panel cut with support brackets on the
ends and no separate lower flange.
It's a really tight fit for two AFS 4500's on the pilots side plus three 2 & 1/4"
backup instruments.
Has anyone come up with alternatives. Especially those that are actually flying
[Laughing]
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
" I can make it work, I'm just not sure how yet."
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187886#187886
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Panel extended or work-around of lower panel support flange |
Something like this?
Rick Sked
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 2:03:02 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RV10-List: Panel extended or work-around of lower panel support flange
I'd like to get rid of the line of nut plates along the bottom of the panel to
make the whole lower flange area of the panel (F-1003B) useable without interference
and still have structural rigidity.
I understand one alternative might be Stein's extended panel but I'm concerned
about conflict with forward movement of control stick.
Another might be to have a single piece panel cut with support brackets on the
ends and no separate lower flange.
It's a really tight fit for two AFS 4500's on the pilots side plus three 2 & 1/4"
backup instruments.
Has anyone come up with alternatives. Especially those that are actually flying
[Laughing]
Thanks,
Tom Hanaway
" I can make it work, I'm just not sure how yet."
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187886#187886
Message 11
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My understanding there is an engine on ebay. supposedly a swinging deal. no
core required. expires today.
Message 12
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My door building memory dump (or revisiting bad dreams):
Life is good, the birds are singing and the lion sleeps with the lamb until you
drill the hole through the aluminum frame. Quickly thereafter dark clouds begin
to form.
I adjusted my door fit, using various techniques, before starting the rod assembly,
after the latch mechanism was installed, and after the seal was installed.
It would have been much better, mentally, for me to visualize this process as
successive approximations rather than three final trims.
Make sure there is always a gap between the door and the return lip of
the cabin fiberglass. I trimed this lip many times as I worked the door
into place. Letting this lip push against the door at the upper part of the door
will cause the door
lower lip to move up. If you trim the bottom of the door
with the lip interfering near the top - well ...
To fine tune my door fit I purchased a block of nylon and machined (chop saw and
drill press and dremel grinder) the guides on the door, not the cabin frame.
This kept the aluminum hole intact. Keep the screw holes in the same location
and move the rod hole around.
Make the bends near the middle of the rod and "aim" the rod through the hole to
minimize drag. Using sandpaper you can lightly smooth up the last 3" of the rod
and it will slip through the hole easier. Light weight grease helps greatly.
If you need to repurchase the rods buy 2024-T3 raw stock with thick walls. A die
grinder with a thin abrasive wheel easily cuts the end slot and you can decrease
the pointy end angle to increase metal through the
aluminum frame.
The pointy side of the rod is inboard to catch the hole with the tip
and pull the door inward. The sharp edges of the rod end function more
like a sword than a velvet finger and chop up the receiving plastic.
Sand (or fair) down these outer edges to help the rod slide and not
stab.
Rod length adjustment starts with making sure the door handle swings 110 degrees
or greater. Fully retract the rods. The rod end tip should be exactly flush
with the door frame. If its pulled further into the door then the rod end may
not pass through the aluminum frame when closed. The greater the circumference
of the rod end passing through the aluminum frame the stronger the door. If the
rod point is outside the door frame with the door handle fully open then it
will decimate the cabin jam.
The last check is to assess how much of the rod circumference passes through the
aluminum hole with the door closed. If this measurement is small, say
.125" , then only the plastic guide is holding the door and the door is likely
to open in flight as the outer edge of the guide weakens when the rod pointy
end chops it up. Adding aluminum to this joint is a very good case for purchasing
the aluminum guides.
No passengers move the handle to close
the door - only you. The
passengers that abused this and made unsightly gashes in my
outer skin were other pilots that already "knew" everything.
Good Luck,
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
--- On Sat, 6/14/08, PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz> wrote:
From: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door pins
--> RV10-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
I had that problem originally. Before you do anything drastic,
lubricate your door rods with some 3-in-1 oil, especially where they go
through the plastic blocks. Also, make sure you haven't over bent
them. I found that when I took some, but not all of the bend out of the
rods, that they moved much more smoothly.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Robert Wright wrote:
> I've bent my pins to align with the door curve per plans, and now
I'm
> trying to fit them in the
7/16" holes drill in the door jams. Each
> time I latch the door, the force of the movement pushes the door out
> of its happy place and leaves a gap. Looks like the only solution is
> to oversize the hole in the direction that will allow the pin to slide
> straight in and latch, then make a new plastic piece to hold the pin
> in place.
>
> I could then patch the enlarged metal hole and redrill the final
> hole's location in the patch.
>
> Or should I attempt to unbend the rod, but that seems like it wouldn't
> then emerge from the door without binding.
>
> Right now it looks like it's only the forward pin on the left door.
>
> Everything else was done per plans, which of course in this fiberglass
> stuff means, "hey, here are some guidelines, now just figure it out
> until it works!"
>
> Very frustrating, so I quit
for the night before I get drastic and
> make a huge hole that I don't need or want.
>
> Rob Wright
> #392
> Doors...Thought I'd be done with them by tomorrow...
>
> *
>
>
> *
Site -
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
Kelly McMullen wrote:
> June 10 Vans shipped out tail kit, 5 days after I placed the order.
> Today I on this lucky day, picked up "The Box" and received letter
> informing me that I am now Builder # 40866. So the big box is tucked
> away in the back of the hangar, awaiting inventory. Pretty impressive
> to receive kit only 8 days after placing the order. Interesting that
> it was shipped FedEx Freight, rather than ABF.
>
> Kelly
> Builder 40866, Tail...inventory
I received all but one shipment by FedEx. The other was by ABF. Yes the ABF box
was in the poorest shape of the 3 shipments. But not bad.
>From OR to OK Fedex is 3 business days and if it is over a weekend I got it in
2 business days. You can hardly drive it in that amount of time. ABF was 5
business days, no variation.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187898#187898
Message 14
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| Subject: | Rosen Visor Group-Buy again |
Is anybody interested in another group-buy on the RV-10 Rosen Visor
system? If so, please contact me off-list. Rosen is running a sale
right now.
Also, I could use another set or two of the axle extensions that Tim
did a group buy for a while ago. Anybody have extras or anybody else
interested in another group-buy for those?
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 15
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| Subject: | SB package arrived today |
Just for reference, the SB package from Vans arrived today in the mail from Vans.
I am located in Oklahoma City.
Included was a complete new section 10 set of plans.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187899#187899
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Panel extended or work-around of lower panel support flange |
You can design your panel in CAD and have it cut by a laser or
waterjet shop quite easily. Then you can either use the ends of the
Van's bar to hold the panel at the sides of the airframe of you can
develop some other sort of support for the lower side of the panel. I
can't imagine that two #3 rivets in either end of that really do that
much structurally to support the bottom of the panel. Also, if you
use the standard system, then it is always in the way when you are
working behind the panel, either with part or all of it out. If you
use a one-piece panel (at least one-piece from top to bottom) you get
a LOT of extra real estate. However, to get two 4500's in the panel
and a good radio stack and backups, you will likely need to make it a
little bigger than standard. I am in the process of helping someone
make one (see attached drawing). Those 4500's take up a lot of panel
space, but the functionality and ease of use with the 2nd knob and the
joystick seem to make that worth it, as well as the processor and
brighter screen.
By the way, splitting the panel horizontally is very helpful in
installing and removing it. That area is very tight for a single-
piece panel, not to mention the hastle of needing to remove the entire
panel to work behind part of it.
Contact me off-list if you would like more info.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 14, 2008, at 2:03 PM, tomhanaway wrote:
>
> I'd like to get rid of the line of nut plates along the bottom of
> the panel to make the whole lower flange area of the panel (F-1003B)
> useable without interference and still have structural rigidity.
>
> I understand one alternative might be Stein's extended panel but I'm
> concerned about conflict with forward movement of control stick.
>
> Another might be to have a single piece panel cut with support
> brackets on the ends and no separate lower flange.
>
> It's a really tight fit for two AFS 4500's on the pilots side plus
> three 2 & 1/4" backup instruments.
>
> Has anyone come up with alternatives. Especially those that are
> actually flying [Laughing]
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hanaway
> " I can make it work, I'm just not sure how yet."
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187886#187886
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Certified O-540 NIB |
If anybody is interested in a Certified O-540 new in Lycoming box,
please contact me off list.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
Message 18
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| Subject: | IO540 need an engine? |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lycoming-IO-540-D4A5-0-SMOH-by-Ly-Con-FREE-SH
IPPING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26437QQihZ002QQitemZ120270111673QQrdZ1QQss
pagenameZWDVW
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
I guess I'm the exception.
I had great service from ABF.
Not so much as a footprint on any of the boxes.
Neal George
========================
I received all but one shipment by FedEx. The other was by ABF. Yes the ABF
box was in the poorest shape of the 3 shipments. But not bad.
>From OR to OK Fedex is 3 business days and if it is over a weekend I got it
in 2 business days. You can hardly drive it in that amount of time. ABF
was 5 business days, no variation.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=187898#187898
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Officially a Builder |
orchidman wrote:
>
>>
>
> I received all but one shipment by FedEx. The other was by ABF. Yes the ABF
box was in the poorest shape of the 3 shipments. But not bad.
> >From OR to OK Fedex is 3 business days and if it is over a weekend I got it
in 2 business days. You can hardly drive it in that amount of time. ABF was
5 business days, no variation.
>
>
Fedex got the box late Jun 10, and it was available for pickup 8am Jun
13 in Phoenix. Essentially 2 days on the road. Like you say..you aren't
going to drive it in less, unless you have 2 drivers and go non-stop.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: IO540 need an engine? |
Good price if you don't mind a narrow deck engine and unknown
preservation/storage. Not to mention all the choices about parts used
etc. already made for you.
Good if you are ready to install, not so good if you are a year or two
away from finishing.
On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 1:59 PM, David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lycoming-IO-540-D4A5-0-SMOH-by-Ly-Con-FREE-SHIPPING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ26437QQihZ002QQitemZ120270111673QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Rosen Visor Group-Buy again |
Jessie,
I took over the production of the Olson Design Axle Extensions. You can
get them through Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Tools. They are
approximately the same price as was in the group buy.
Dave Hertner
Effectus AeroProducts
Jesse Saint wrote:
> Is anybody interested in another group-buy on the RV-10 Rosen Visor
> system? If so, please contact me off-list. Rosen is running a sale
> right now.
>
> Also, I could use another set or two of the axle extensions that Tim did
> a group buy for a while ago. Anybody have extras or anybody else
> interested in another group-buy for those?
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 23
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| Subject: | EIS 6000 question |
Hi
Regarding the GRT EIS 6000/4000 could anyone tell me what scale factor and
offset limit values you used for your fuel pressure sender?
Thanks
Kevin Shannon
Taxi testing the rocket tomorrow
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