Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:08 AM - Re: First flight and governor (Jesse Saint)
2. 05:46 AM - Re: SB (Fixitauto@AOL.COM)
3. 05:59 AM - Re: Re: door pins (MauleDriver)
4. 06:06 AM - Re: SB (Rick Sked)
5. 06:06 AM - Boston Area RV-10 Builders? (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
6. 06:16 AM - Re: Boston Area RV-10 Builders? (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
7. 06:27 AM - Re: Re: door pins (Fred Williams, M.D.)
8. 06:28 AM - Re: SB (linn Walters)
9. 06:43 AM - Wheel Jack (Sam)
10. 06:45 AM - Re: SB (Bob Kaufmann)
11. 07:34 AM - Re: Wheel Jack (Albert Gardner)
12. 08:20 AM - Re: SB (Rick Sked)
13. 08:41 AM - Re: Wheel Jack (Sam)
14. 09:22 AM - Re: Re: door pins (MauleDriver)
15. 09:55 AM - window adhesives revisited. (John Gonzalez)
16. 10:32 AM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (Jim Berry)
17. 10:49 AM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (gary)
18. 01:11 PM - Re: Re: door pins (John Testement)
19. 01:19 PM - Re: Re: door pins (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
20. 01:23 PM - Re: First flight and governor (Chris and Susie McGough)
21. 01:39 PM - Re: Re: door pins (Rene Felker)
22. 01:42 PM - Re: Re: door pins (MauleDriver)
23. 01:49 PM - Re: Re: door pins (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
24. 02:13 PM - Re: Re: door pins (MauleDriver)
25. 02:17 PM - Re: SB (Doug Preston)
26. 05:12 PM - Re: SB (Scott Schmidt)
27. 06:09 PM - Door Armrest? (rv10builder)
28. 06:25 PM - Re: Door Armrest? ()
29. 06:31 PM - Re: Door Armrest? (Robert Wright)
30. 06:36 PM - Re: Door Armrest? (Chris and Susie McGough)
31. 07:44 PM - Re: SB (Bill DeRouchey)
32. 08:07 PM - Re: Door Armrest? (Dave Saylor)
33. 10:29 PM - Re: Re: door pins (Robin Marks)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: First flight and governor |
Chris,
If you are getting somewhere near your max RPM on a static run-up,
then I would recommend flying it first and record your max RPM on
initial climb-out, then readjust the governor and try it the next
time. Your static run-up should get close, but it won't make it all
the way to full RPM. If, however, you are only getting 2300 or
something like that on static, then I would recommend an adjustment of
the stops on the governor first. Also, check the RPM with a laser/
optical tach so you know that your engine monitor is reading
correctly. There are different settings coming from different
engines, so the engine monitor needs to know how to read correctly.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 17, 2008, at 1:40 AM, Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
> >
>
> Just recieved the Dynon back from Dynon which they replaced with a
> new one. Did engine start today and due to a few reasons I had to
> run the engine longer than I would like. I am not getting the 2700
> RPM and I do I understand I need to Adjust the governor but my
> question is can I go flying now and Adjusted it after each flight
> till its right. I realy do not want to start the engine again till
> first flight on Sat weather permiting??
>
> regards Chris VH-ICY
>
>
Message 2
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Rick so how many drilled out and replaced rivets will this bring your total
up to?
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 3
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AirMike wrote:
> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that I consider
them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so inferior to the Rivethead
system it is crazy to struggle with it. The Rivethead system is not perfectly
straightforward but it is pretty slick when it is finished.
>
I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
well. A few tips based on my experience:
- install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses as
possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape it so
it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
- Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
- use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
the latch. Do one block at a time
- fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
- With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway. Very
nice pins and blocks.
Message 4
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LOL....well these will be the first ones for real, I messed=C2- up one on
=C2-my practice kit...except of course the ones for the Vertical Stab SB
=C2-and all of Bob Kauffmans I helped drill out for=C2-him. ...I knew t
hat crack about never having to drill one out would come back sometime!! Th
anks for putting a big smile on my face to start the day.
Rick Sked
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Fixitauto@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:41:15 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB
Rick so how many drilled out and replaced rivets will this bring your total
up to?
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars
===========
====
=======================
===
Message 5
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| Subject: | Boston Area RV-10 Builders? |
I'm in the Boston area all week and looks like I will have plenty of
slack time. If there are any builders in the area up for a visit
contact me offline.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Boston Area RV-10 Builders? |
Forgot that it strips my email address. Contact at bob.condrey (at)
baesystems.com.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 8:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Boston Area RV-10 Builders?
I'm in the Boston area all week and looks like I will have plenty of
slack time. If there are any builders in the area up for a visit
contact me offline.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Message 7
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MauleDriver:
Did you have your seal on the door?
Dr Fred
40515.
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that
>> I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so
>> inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The
>> Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty
>> slick when it is finished.
>>
> I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
> There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
> well. A few tips based on my experience:
> - install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses
> as possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape
> it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
> - Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
> penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
> - use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
> dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
> the latch. Do one block at a time
> - fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
> the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
> mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
> - With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
> the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
> you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
> way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
>
> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
> Very nice pins and blocks.
>
>
Message 8
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Fixitauto@aol.com wrote:
> Rick so how many drilled out and replaced rivets will this bring your
> total up to?
Man, that's brutal!!! Kinda like asking how the sex is at home!!! :-P
Wish I had drilled out as many (no matter how many) because I'd be
further along!!!
Linn
do not archive
Message 9
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Does anyone have experience with using a wheel jack for the RV10, good
or bad recommendations?
Sam
#40157
And no cracks!
Message 10
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ROFLMAOEvery time I go over to Rick=99s its like
walking on a floor covered with little bitty aluminum donuts, wonder why
they are all over the place.
Bob Kaufmann
N104BK, In the air, just a couple of inches.
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB
LOL....well these will be the first ones for real, I messed up one on
my practice kit...except of course the ones for the Vertical Stab SB and
all of Bob Kauffmans I helped drill out for him. ...I knew that crack
about never having to drill one out would come back sometime!! Thanks
for putting a big smile on my face to start the day.
Rick Sked
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Fixitauto@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:41:15 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB
Rick so how many drilled out and replaced rivets will this bring your
total up to?
_____
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used
cars <http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007> .
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
Message 11
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I use the type that uses a short bottle jack and goes into the hollow axel
after you remove the axel nut. Works fine and much better than the type that
uses a bracket clamped to the gear leg to provide a place to put a bottle
jack. The bracket often slips on the gear leg. However, when possible I use
wing jacks. Much safer.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Does anyone have experience with using a wheel jack for the RV10, good
or bad recommendations?
Sam
#40157
And no cracks!
Message 12
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Those are not drilled out rivets...they are microstop shavings.
Rick Sked
4015
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann@cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 6:42:49 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: SB
ROFLMAOEvery time I go over to Rick=99s its like wa
lking on a floor covered with little bitty aluminum donuts, wonder why they
are all over the place.
Bob Kaufmann
N104BK, In the air, just a couple of inches.
=C2-Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB
LOL....well these will be the first ones for real, I messed=C2- up one on
=C2-my practice kit...except of course the ones for the Vertical Stab SB
=C2-and all of Bob Kauffmans I helped drill out for=C2-him. ...I knew t
hat crack about never having to drill one out would come back sometime!! Th
anks for putting a big smile on my face to start the day.
Rick Sked
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Fixitauto@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:41:15 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB
Rick so how many drilled out and replaced rivets will this bring your total
up to?
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars
. =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV1
0-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution
============
====
=======================
==
Message 13
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Thanks Albert
do not archive
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> I use the type that uses a short bottle jack and goes into the hollow axel
> after you remove the axel nut. Works fine and much better than the type that
> uses a bracket clamped to the gear leg to provide a place to put a bottle
> jack. The bracket often slips on the gear leg. However, when possible I use
> wing jacks. Much safer.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Does anyone have experience with using a wheel jack for the RV10, good
> or bad recommendations?
> Sam
> #40157
> And no cracks!
>
>
>
Message 14
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Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> MauleDriver:
>
> Did you have your seal on the door?
> Dr Fred
> 40515.
Nope.
>> <snippety snip>
>> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
>>
Bill Watson
40605
Message 15
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| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
I jumped the gun a while back and didn't carefully enough look at the instr
uctions on the Sikaflex web site. If I hadn't already painted the interior
of my canopy I would have added fiberglass to the inside of the window flan
ge to thicken it so that I could deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond
thickness Also, at initial trimming I would have als left the flange one i
nch wide not 3/4" wide.
The pros with the use of Sikaflex is the idea of a floating acrylic window
which would allow for expansion and contraction. The thermal coefficient of
expansion between the frame and the window is huge. Because of this, Sikaf
lex requires a 3/16'" thick bond thickness and an expansion gap at the edge
of 1/4" to 3/8". Given all these requirements, my existing frame flange wi
ll need to be thinned by 1/16" and the window thinned by 1/16" whick would
still leave the window proud of the outside contour. Also because the flang
e is only 3/4", and because we would need a minimum of 1/4" expansion gap,
when the window contracts in the cold it will not have that much bond space
.
I orderred the Weld on and will most likely do it that way and bond it and
cover the gap and the edge of the window and the canopy with fiberglass for
a smooth transition as I see on most fiberglass ships.
The thing that concerns me is that we are trying to contain/constrict the p
lexiglass during expansion and contraction and that just doesn't seem right
. I suppose the Glasair guys with 10 year old ships should be able to put m
y concerns at ease.
Oh well, just the over analysing dentist in me.
JOhn G. #409
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: window adhesives revisited. |
Even if you use an adhesive that requires less bond thickness, you will have places
where the window stands proud of the cabin surface. There will also be places
where the door is proud of the top, and other places where the top is proud
of the door. You should be very proud. All of this can be accommodated by contouring
with micro or other lightweight filler.
Jim Berry
40482
Proud to be finished with fiberglass
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188333#188333
Message 17
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| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
I flew my Glasair III with =BD=94 thick windshield for 15 years with it
bonded
into the frame with epoxy with no problems of cracking or crazing. With
that
thick of windshield there is no flexing of the acrylic to take up any
differential in expansion either. There are many hundreds of Glasairs
out
there with the same proven record. You can tell from the above comment
how
I put my window in the 10.
Gary
40274 Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 11:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
I jumped the gun a while back and didn't carefully enough look at the
instructions on the Sikaflex web site. If I hadn't already painted the
interior of my canopy I would have added fiberglass to the inside of the
window flange to thicken it so that I could deepen the flange to allow a
greqater bond thickness Also, at initial trimming I would have als left
the
flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide.
The pros with the use of Sikaflex is the idea of a floating acrylic
window
which would allow for expansion and contraction. The thermal coefficient
of
expansion between the frame and the window is huge. Because of this,
Sikaflex requires a 3/16'" thick bond thickness and an expansion gap at
the
edge of 1/4" to 3/8". Given all these requirements, my existing frame
flange
will need to be thinned by 1/16" and the window thinned by 1/16" whick
would
still leave the window proud of the outside contour. Also because the
flange
is only 3/4", and because we would need a minimum of 1/4" expansion gap,
when the window contracts in the cold it will not have that much bond
space.
I orderred the Weld on and will most likely do it that way and bond it
and
cover the gap and the edge of the window and the canopy with fiberglass
for
a smooth transition as I see on most fiberglass ships.
The thing that concerns me is that we are trying to contain/constrict
the
plexiglass during expansion and contraction and that just doesn't seem
right. I suppose the Glasair guys with 10 year old ships should be able
to
put my concerns at ease.
Oh well, just the over analysing dentist in me.
JOhn G. #409
Message 18
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Although the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's design, I
would still be very worried about a design that did not have the pins going
completely through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be installed in a
way that allows the pins to go all the way in?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting and final assembly
do not archive
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that
>> I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so
>> inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The
>> Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty
>> slick when it is finished.
>>
> I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
> There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
> well. A few tips based on my experience:
> - install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses
> as possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape
> it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
> - Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
> penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
> - use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
> dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
> the latch. Do one block at a time
> - fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
> the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
> mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
> - With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
> the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
> you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
> way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
>
> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
> Very nice pins and blocks.
>
Checked by AVG.
7:20 AM
Message 19
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Not sure why folks think the Rivethead and IFLYRV10 pins/guides don't go
all the way through. The pins stick out the back side of the frame just
like the stock aluminum rods.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
<jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Although the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's
design, I
would still be very worried about a design that did not have the pins
going
completely through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be installed
in a
way that allows the pins to go all the way in?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting and final assembly
do not archive
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that
>> I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so
>> inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The
>> Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty
>> slick when it is finished.
>>
> I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
> There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
> well. A few tips based on my experience:
> - install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses
> as possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape
> it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
> - Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
> penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
> - use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
> dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
> the latch. Do one block at a time
> - fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
> the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
> mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
> - With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
> the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
> you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
> way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
>
> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
> Very nice pins and blocks.
>
Checked by AVG.
7:20 AM
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: First flight and governor |
Thanks Jesse I have a mate coming Thursday with his calabrated RPM tester so
will do just that.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: First flight and governor
>
> Chris,
>
> If you are getting somewhere near your max RPM on a static run-up, then I
> would recommend flying it first and record your max RPM on initial
> climb-out, then readjust the governor and try it the next time. Your
> static run-up should get close, but it won't make it all the way to full
> RPM. If, however, you are only getting 2300 or something like that on
> static, then I would recommend an adjustment of the stops on the governor
> first. Also, check the RPM with a laser/ optical tach so you know that
> your engine monitor is reading correctly. There are different settings
> coming from different engines, so the engine monitor needs to know how to
> read correctly.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jun 17, 2008, at 1:40 AM, Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>
>> <VHMUM@bigpond.com
>> >
>>
>> Just recieved the Dynon back from Dynon which they replaced with a new
>> one. Did engine start today and due to a few reasons I had to run the
>> engine longer than I would like. I am not getting the 2700 RPM and I do
>> I understand I need to Adjust the governor but my question is can I go
>> flying now and Adjusted it after each flight till its right. I realy do
>> not want to start the engine again till first flight on Sat weather
>> permiting??
>>
>> regards Chris VH-ICY
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 21
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If you follow the directions for the rivethead pins....or was it a
video.....the pins and blocks were designed to NOT go past the door frame so
that you would not damage the skin if the door was closed with the pins
extended. They only hit the block. I installed mime that way and thus my
pins do not go through the frame.
I see no reason why you could not make the rods longer and have them go
through the frame. They would still work the same way, but if the pins were
extended and you attempt to close the door you would hit the skin of the
airplane.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Not sure why folks think the Rivethead and IFLYRV10 pins/guides don't go
all the way through. The pins stick out the back side of the frame just
like the stock aluminum rods.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
<jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Although the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's
design, I
would still be very worried about a design that did not have the pins
going
completely through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be installed
in a
way that allows the pins to go all the way in?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting and final assembly
do not archive
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that
>> I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so
>> inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The
>> Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty
>> slick when it is finished.
>>
> I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
> There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
> well. A few tips based on my experience:
> - install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses
> as possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape
> it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
> - Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
> penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
> - use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
> dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
> the latch. Do one block at a time
> - fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
> the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
> mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
> - With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
> the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
> you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
> way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
>
> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
> Very nice pins and blocks.
>
Checked by AVG.
7:20 AM
Message 22
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Yes they can. The disadvantage of doing so is that the door remains
subject to banging up the skin. That is, the door could be slammed shut
with the pins extended. I still have the option but haven't drilled the
holes yet. I"m thinking I'll work ahead for a bit and see what the
door seal deal is.
So, the question with the rivet head pins seems to be, is the shear
strength of 2 AN3 bolts enough? And is the block itself strong enough
to serve as the sole restraint of the pins? Or is it better to risk a
few dings and use belts and suspenders?
John Testement wrote:
>
> Although the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's design, I
> would still be very worried about a design that did not have the pins going
> completely through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be installed in a
> way that allows the pins to go all the way in?
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Painting and final assembly
> do not archive
>
>
> MauleDriver wrote:
>
>>
>> AirMike wrote:
>>
>>> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that
>>> I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so
>>> inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The
>>> Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty
>>> slick when it is finished.
>>>
>>>
>> I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
>> There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
>> well. A few tips based on my experience:
>> - install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses
>> as possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape
>> it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
>> - Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
>> penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
>> - use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
>> dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
>> the latch. Do one block at a time
>> - fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
>> the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
>> mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
>> - With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
>> the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
>> you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
>> way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
>>
>> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
>> Very nice pins and blocks.
>>
>>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 7:20 AM
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
I understand now! Interestingly I didn't get any instructions or video,
just a set of wrapped up parts.
BTW, I have looked at the IFLYRV10.com version of the guides and like
them better (no affiliation with either). Big difference in design is
that Steve's (IFLYRV10.com) have holes all the way through for mounting
to make it easier. Other difference is that Steve ships them out within
a day of the order using USPS Priority Mail:)
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:37 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
If you follow the directions for the rivethead pins....or was it a
video.....the pins and blocks were designed to NOT go past the door
frame so
that you would not damage the skin if the door was closed with the pins
extended. They only hit the block. I installed mime that way and thus
my
pins do not go through the frame.
I see no reason why you could not make the rods longer and have them go
through the frame. They would still work the same way, but if the pins
were
extended and you attempt to close the door you would hit the skin of the
airplane.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US
SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Not sure why folks think the Rivethead and IFLYRV10 pins/guides don't go
all the way through. The pins stick out the back side of the frame just
like the stock aluminum rods.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
<jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Although the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's
design, I
would still be very worried about a design that did not have the pins
going
completely through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be installed
in a
way that allows the pins to go all the way in?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting and final assembly
do not archive
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that
>> I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so
>> inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The
>> Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty
>> slick when it is finished.
>>
> I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
> There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
> well. A few tips based on my experience:
> - install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses
> as possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape
> it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
> - Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
> penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
> - use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
> dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
> the latch. Do one block at a time
> - fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
> the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
> mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
> - With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
> the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
> you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
> way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
>
> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
> Very nice pins and blocks.
>
Checked by AVG.
7:20 AM
Message 24
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|
I don't think anyone got any directions. The Youtube video cleared up a
few things and is a great sales pitch.
I thought I'd prefer Steve's too... but after doing it I found that the
blind drilling was actually quite simple.
I have Steve's billet handles which are going in fine so far. I am
missing the nylon guides (anyone else get them). I'm beginning to think
that I don't need them but don't know. Steve? Anyone with installation
experience?
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> I understand now! Interestingly I didn't get any instructions or video,
> just a set of wrapped up parts.
>
> BTW, I have looked at the IFLYRV10.com version of the guides and like
> them better (no affiliation with either). Big difference in design is
> that Steve's (IFLYRV10.com) have holes all the way through for mounting
> to make it easier. Other difference is that Steve ships them out within
> a day of the order using USPS Priority Mail:)
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:37 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
>
>
>
> If you follow the directions for the rivethead pins....or was it a
> video.....the pins and blocks were designed to NOT go past the door
> frame so
> that you would not damage the skin if the door was closed with the pins
> extended. They only hit the block. I installed mime that way and thus
> my
> pins do not go through the frame.
>
> I see no reason why you could not make the rods longer and have them go
> through the frame. They would still work the same way, but if the pins
> were
> extended and you attempt to close the door you would hit the skin of the
> airplane.
>
> Rene' Felker
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
> 801-721-6080
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
> (US
> SSA)
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 2:17 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
>
>
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Not sure why folks think the Rivethead and IFLYRV10 pins/guides don't go
> all the way through. The pins stick out the back side of the frame just
> like the stock aluminum rods.
>
> Bob
> N442PM (flying)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
> Testement
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:08 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
>
> <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
>
> Although the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's
> design, I
> would still be very worried about a design that did not have the pins
> going
> completely through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be installed
> in a
> way that allows the pins to go all the way in?
>
> John Testement
> jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Painting and final assembly
> do not archive
>
>
> MauleDriver wrote:
>
>>
>> AirMike wrote:
>>
>>> Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that
>>> I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so
>>> inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The
>>>
>
>
>>> Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty
>>> slick when it is finished.
>>>
>>>
>> I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
>>
>
>
>> There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
>> well. A few tips based on my experience:
>> - install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses
>> as possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape
>> it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
>> - Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
>> penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
>> - use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
>> dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
>> the latch. Do one block at a time
>> - fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
>> the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
>> mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
>> - With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
>> the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
>> you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
>>
>
>
>> way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
>>
>> That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
>> Very nice pins and blocks.
>>
>>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 7:20 AM
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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N372RV - 117 HRS. LOOKS GOOD AS NEW.
DOUG PRESTON
BHM
On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 9:05 PM, Sam <sam@fr8dog.net> wrote:
> N540MR
> 120 hrs and looks like new, no cracks!
>
> Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> N256H 503 Hrs and no cracks
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jun 15, 2008, at 9:40 PM, GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
>
> N184JM
>
> 65 hrs and no cracks.
>
> Great borescope tool is the SeeSnake offered by Home Depot for under $200!
>
> grumpy
>
> do not archive
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008<http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102>
> .
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com" <http://forums.matronics.com>>http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 26
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Did my inspection today and no cracks were found.
Hours: 375
N104XP
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Doug Preston <dougpflyrv@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 3:14:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB
N372RV - 117 HRS. LOOKS GOOD AS NEW.
DOUG PRESTON
BHM
On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 9:05 PM, Sam <sam@fr8dog.net> wrote:
N540MR
120 hrs and looks like new, no cracks!
Jesse Saint wrote:
N256H
503 Hrs and no cracks
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 15, 2008, at 9:40 PM, GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
N184JM
65 hrs and no cracks.
Great borescope tool is the SeeSnake offered by Home Depot for
under $200!
grumpy
do not archive
________________________________
Vote for your city's best dining and
nightlife. City's Best 2008.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 27
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A couple of flight instructors have sat/ridden in my -10 and have
remarked that I should consider installing an armrest on the inside of
the door. I've seen the center console solution but has anyone attached
them to the door?
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
N104BS
42 hours...no cracks, and headed to Glo-Custom in 2 weeks!
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Door Armrest? |
I was also considering something like this by bolding a armrest to the door using
fiberglass layups.
Ray
---- rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> A couple of flight instructors have sat/ridden in my -10 and have
> remarked that I should consider installing an armrest on the inside of
> the door. I've seen the center console solution but has anyone attached
> them to the door?
>
> Brian Sutherland
> Nashville, TN
> N104BS
> 42 hours...no cracks, and headed to Glo-Custom in 2 weeks!
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Door Armrest? |
give 'em a book or something else that takes two hands to do, and then tell
them to install armrests in their airplane!- Oh - they're riding in your
s!=0A=0ARob=0Acan't wait to take some pax=0A=0A----- Original Message ----
=0AFrom: rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net>=0ATo: "rv10-list@matronics
.com" <rv10-list@matronics.com>=0ASent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 9:05:56 PM
rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net>=0A=0AA couple of- flight instruct
ors have sat/ridden in my -10 and have =0Aremarked that I should consider i
nstalling an armrest on the inside of =0Athe door.- I've seen the center
console solution but has anyone attached =0Athem to the door?=0A=0ABrian Su
therland=0ANashville, TN=0AN104BS=0A42 hours...no cracks, and headed to Glo
-=- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Drall
==========0A=0A=0A
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Door Armrest? |
Next to the stubby holder eh?
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <rdoerr@kc.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Armrest?
>
> I was also considering something like this by bolding a armrest to the
> door using fiberglass layups.
>
> Ray
>
> ---- rv10builder <rv10builder@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>
>> A couple of flight instructors have sat/ridden in my -10 and have
>> remarked that I should consider installing an armrest on the inside of
>> the door. I've seen the center console solution but has anyone attached
>> them to the door?
>>
>> Brian Sutherland
>> Nashville, TN
>> N104BS
>> 42 hours...no cracks, and headed to Glo-Custom in 2 weeks!
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 31
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N939SB - 200 hrs, no cracks.
Bill
--- On Tue, 6/17/08, Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB
Did my inspection today and no cracks were found.
Hours: 375
N104XP
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Doug Preston <dougpflyrv@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 3:14:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB
N372RV - 117 HRS. LOOKS GOOD AS NEW.
DOUG PRESTON
BHM
On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 9:05 PM, Sam <sam@fr8dog.net> wrote:
N540MR
120 hrs and looks like new, no cracks!
Jesse Saint wrote:
N256H
503 Hrs and no cracks
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 15, 2008, at 9:40 PM, GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
N184JM
65 hrs and no cracks.
Great borescope tool is the SeeSnake offered by Home Depot for
under $200!
grumpy
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Message 32
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Brian,
I don't have armrests, just some padding on the lower part of the door.
Also, I painted the upper part with texture paint, like truck bedliner.
Whatever I did, when it came back from upholstry with the new padding in
place, the strut wouldn't hold the door up all the time. It's just heavy
eneough now to let it come slamming down if it's cold or in a gentle breeze.
I measured the strut force and it's fine--I guess it's just a heavy door
now.
Both doors are virtually identical, but the left side stays up just fine.
So, be careful what you add to the door.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 6:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Armrest?
A couple of flight instructors have sat/ridden in my -10 and have remarked
that I should consider installing an armrest on the inside of the door.
I've seen the center console solution but has anyone attached them to the
door?
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
N104BS
42 hours...no cracks, and headed to Glo-Custom in 2 weeks!
Message 33
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As part of our build we plan to imbed a polished metal strike plate on
the exterior where the rods WILL hit when the door is closed with the
lock engaged. I will not be painting this plate and view the polished
metal as a feature. Sure beats seeing those chips on a brand new paint
job.
My Tip Up 6A has two and basically only two blemishes on the entire
plane. Both are where the rear band of the tip up could potentially
slide under the metal body trim. I know how to open & close the canopy
but A&P's and others don't and WHAMO... a scar on each side that I see
each and every time I get in the plane. Bummer.
On another note I just had a close up look at the "Cessna" 400. Cessna
had a demo day at my airport so I strolled around the bird for some
time. I have seen them before and always admired the Columbia but I
really got to poke around to observe it in detail. That plane is an
absolutely a work of art. Expensive art at $640K a copy but definitely
art. Don't get me wrong I love the -10 and think it's the best plane for
me and my mission (and wallet) but the Columbia exquisite.
Robin
Getting closer all the time. Will just miss flying to OSH but I will be
there for a couple of days sans the 10.
SJ Plenum in place. SJ Cowl almost on. Sure wish there was an after
marked air box for the Cold Air Induction engine.
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