Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:44 AM - Re: Re: door pins (Don McDonald)
2. 03:41 AM - Archer ELT Antenna (jayb)
3. 03:44 AM - Re: Re: door pins (Wayne Edgerton)
4. 03:58 AM - Re: Door Armrest? (Wayne Edgerton)
5. 05:24 AM - Re: SB (Rob Kermanj)
6. 07:02 AM - Re: Re: door pins (Steven DiNieri)
7. 10:17 AM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (John Ackerman)
8. 10:54 AM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (John Gonzalez)
9. 01:34 PM - HID replacement lights (David McNeill)
10. 01:47 PM - leg and wheel fairings (David McNeill)
11. 03:08 PM - Re: leg and wheel fairings (Rene Felker)
12. 03:20 PM - Re: Archer ELT Antenna (Rick Sked)
13. 03:32 PM - Re: Archer ELT Antenna (Kelly McMullen)
14. 03:42 PM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (Rick Sked)
15. 03:47 PM - Re: Archer ELT Antenna (Rick Sked)
16. 07:54 PM - Re: leg and wheel fairings (Jim Berry)
17. 09:02 PM - Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection (dmaib@mac.com)
18. 10:09 PM - HID lights (David McNeill)
Message 1
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Robin, I will also be going to Osh.... without my 10 too.- So close....
-- will be there from Wednesday on.- Hopefully we'll find each other.
- Fiberglass plenum done, scoop for cold air done, (used an F1 Rocket and
modified it extensively) wings on and torqued, aelerons set, flaps set, el
evators set, trim working from stick, most of the panel finished, and tryin
g to get the fiberglass ready for paint.- Thanks again for the ducting fo
r the oil cooler, works great.
Don McDonald
#40636
Still finishing
--- On Tue, 6/17/08, Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
From: Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
As part of our build we plan to imbed a polished metal strike plate on the
exterior where the rods WILL hit when the door is closed with the lock enga
ged. I will not be painting this plate and view the polished metal as a fea
ture. Sure beats seeing those chips on a brand new paint job.
My Tip Up 6A has two and basically only two blemishes on the entire plane.
Both are where the rear band of the tip up could potentially slide under th
e metal body trim. I know how to open & close the canopy but A&P=92s and ot
hers don=92t and WHAMO=85 a scar on each side that I see each and every tim
e I get in the plane. Bummer.
-
On another note I just had a close up look at the =93Cessna=94 400. Cessna
had a demo day at my airport so I strolled around the bird for some time. I
have seen them before and always admired the Columbia but I really got to
poke around to observe it in detail. That plane is an absolutely a work of
art. Expensive art at $640K a copy but definitely art. Don=92t get me wrong
I love the -10 and think it=92s the best plane for me and my mission (and
wallet) but the Columbia exquisite.
-
Robin
Getting closer all the time. Will just miss flying to OSH but I will be the
re for a couple of days sans the 10.
SJ Plenum in place. SJ Cowl almost on. Sure wish there was an after marked
air box for the Cold Air Induction engine.
-
Do Not Archive
=0A=0A=0A
Message 2
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| Subject: | Archer ELT Antenna |
Has anyone fabricated/installed the Archer ELT Antenna per the attached drawing?
It seems easy enough, but the devil's always in the details... Photos?
Cheers,
Jay
For those with email digest:
http://www.brinkmeyers.net/docs/ArcherELTAntennaRV10.pdf
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188442#188442
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/archereltantennarv10_186.pdf
Message 3
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John,
Mine go all the way the door frame and I didn't do anything special when
I installed them. The only difficulty I ran into when installing them
was getting the door open magnet sensor out of the push rod, since it
was glued in.
Wayne N602WT
Time: 01:11:52 PM PST US
From: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Re: door pins
Although the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's
design, I
would still be very worried about a design that did not have the
pins going
completely through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be
installed in a
way that allows the pins to go all the way in?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting and final assembly
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Door Armrest? |
I just had an interior guy install arm rests on my plane and what he
did, which I thought was a good idea, was to installed a couple of nut
plates in the arm rest and then put an aluminum doubler on the part
that mates up against the door panel. Then he made another doubler for
the opposite side of the door panel and ran the screws through that
piece into the arm rests nut plates.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Message 5
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N225ES - 302 hrs no cracks.
Rob.
On Jun 17, 2008, at 10:41 PM, Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> N939SB - 200 hrs, no cracks.
> Bill
>
>
> --- On Tue, 6/17/08, Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com> wrote:
> From: Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 17, 2008, 5:09 PM
>
> Did my inspection today and no cracks were found.
> Hours: 375
> N104XP
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Doug Preston <dougpflyrv@gmail.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 3:14:38 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB
>
> N372RV - 117 HRS. LOOKS GOOD AS NEW.
> DOUG PRESTON
> BHM
>
> On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 9:05 PM, Sam <sam@fr8dog.net> wrote:
> N540MR
> 120 hrs and looks like new, no cracks!
>
> Jesse Saint wrote:
>>
>> N256H
>> 503 Hrs and no cracks
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse@saintaviation.com
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> On Jun 15, 2008, at 9:40 PM, GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> N184JM
>>>
>>> 65 hrs and no cracks.
>>>
>>> Great borescope tool is the SeeSnake offered by Home Depot for
>>> under $200!
>>>
>>> grumpy
>>>
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008.
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
Message 6
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Bill,
the plastic guide blocks are primarily used to help keep the long door
rod from flexing from any angular force applied from the billet handles.
although not required it certainly helps remove any "spongy" feeling when
operating the handle.
sorry you were shorted, i'll send a set out today. it seems the DiNieri
munchkins lost count. Can i use my kids as an excuse...yeah, why not...
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: door pins
I don't think anyone got any directions. The Youtube video cleared up a few
things and is a great sales pitch.
I thought I'd prefer Steve's too... but after doing it I found that the
blind drilling was actually quite simple.
I have Steve's billet handles which are going in fine so far. I am missing
the nylon guides (anyone else get them). I'm beginning to think that I
don't need them but don't know. Steve? Anyone with installation
experience?
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
<mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.com> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I understand now! Interestingly I didn't get any instructions or video,
just a set of wrapped up parts.
BTW, I have looked at the IFLYRV10.com version of the guides and like
them better (no affiliation with either). Big difference in design is
that Steve's (IFLYRV10.com) have holes all the way through for mounting
to make it easier. Other difference is that Steve ships them out within
a day of the order using USPS Priority Mail:)
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:37 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
<rene@felker.com>
If you follow the directions for the rivethead pins....or was it a
video.....the pins and blocks were designed to NOT go past the door
frame so
that you would not damage the skin if the door was closed with the pins
extended. They only hit the block. I installed mime that way and thus
my
pins do not go through the frame.
I see no reason why you could not make the rods longer and have them go
through the frame. They would still work the same way, but if the pins
were
extended and you attempt to close the door you would hit the skin of the
airplane.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US
SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
<mailto:bob.condrey@baesystems.com> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Not sure why folks think the Rivethead and IFLYRV10 pins/guides don't go
all the way through. The pins stick out the back side of the frame just
like the stock aluminum rods.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: door pins
<mailto:jwt@roadmapscoaching.com> <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
Although the Rivethead pin blocks look much cleaner than the Van's
design, I
would still be very worried about a design that did not have the pins
going
completely through the metal door frame. Can the Rivethead be installed
in a
way that allows the pins to go all the way in?
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting and final assembly
do not archive
MauleDriver wrote:
<MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
AirMike wrote:
Go for the Rivethead pin blocks. They are so good and so smooth that
I consider them a MANDATORY option. The standard system is so
inferior to the Rivethead system it is crazy to struggle with it. The
Rivethead system is not perfectly straightforward but it is pretty
slick when it is finished.
I'd have to totally agree given my recent experience installing them.
There is little installation guidance but muddling thru worked quite
well. A few tips based on my experience:
- install the nylon blocks in the door as far back in their recesses
as possible. Don't just clear the outer edge of the recess but shape
it so it can clear the edge by a 1/8" or so.
- Adjust the latch arms so the pins touch but don't necessarily
penetrate the door sill (Mine penetrate slightly)
- use the Rivethead pins to mark the location of the blocks by just
dabbing some ink on the tip, holding the door in place, and operating
the latch. Do one block at a time
- fabricate a 10-32 threaded pin with a point on it. Screw them into
the Rivethead block, use the inked mark to locate the block and use a
mallet to mark 1 mounting hole.
- With one hole drilled and a screw inserted, put the threaded pin in
the other hole, operate the latch, get the door in the flush position
you want, tighten the bolt. Them unlatch the door, move it out of the
way, and use a mallet to mark the 2nd hole.
That gave me just about a perfect fit - for the time being anyway.
Very nice pins and blocks.
Checked by AVG.
7:20 AM
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: window adhesives revisited. |
> On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> .... If I hadn't already painted the interior of my canopy I would
> have added fiberglass to the inside of the window flange to thicken
> it so that I could deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond
> thickness Also, at initial trimming I would have als left the flange
> one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe
the following will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion
(actually contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread
sheet, which assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the
fiberglass. The results are appended as text below in case the
attachment can't be posted.
It's clear that even a stretchy Sikaflex glue line cannot accommodate
the necessary movement unless it is _very_ thick. For example, the
door glue line would have to be uniformly 1/8" thick to accept the
contraction of 0.07" (on the diagonal) that would result from cooling
to - 35 =B0F from a fabrication temperature of 75 =B0F. In that
situation
the glue would have to stretch 15%. I think that would be near the
limit, and it might break or become un-bonded if it were thinner
anywhere. The flange is nowhere near deep enough to give that kind of
thickness, and of course the flange depth and plexi thickness are not
completely uniform.
Sikaflex tech support briefly reviewed the situation with me and
agreed. Apparently more than a few tens of percent stretch is not
tolerable. My expectation is that the allowable stretch might be less
at low temperatures, but I didn't ask them.
After talking to Van's engineering about the situation, it finally
dawned on me that the RV10 design approach was to hard bond (very
little flexibility) the plexi to the fiberglass and let the expansion
forces be taken by deformation of the structure. This puts tremendous
forces on the adhesive. For that reason, we elected to stay with Van's
design and materials.
As pointed out in other posts, this is essentially the same approach
as epoxying the window in place and making a glass flange around its
periphery, a la Glasair, et al. Quite a change from the free-floating
windows in Cessna, et al, huh?
John Ackerman 40458
Assume: Zero stress at fabrication
Plexi and GRP expand and contract as "free bodies" - bond
stretches
No deformation of acrylic or GRP (as opposed to expansion)
Acrylic free to expand and contract in flange "joggle"
Perfect fit of window in flange "joggle"
Expansion coeff's from:
http://www.edl-inc.com/Plastic%20expansion%20rates.htm
3.80E-05 Thermal expansion coefficient, acrylic, per =B0F
2.00E-05 Thermal expansion coefficient, epoxy GRP, per =B0F
1.80E-05 Differential thermal expansion coefficient, per =B0F
145 Max temp, =B0F (Phoenix Summer in sun)
-35 Min temp =B0F (North Dakota winter in hangar)
75 Fabrication temp =B0
110 Max temp swing from zero stress state, =B0F
36 Max length of door window (diagonal), inch
0.071 Max length change of door window, inch
0.036 Max bond point movement, inch
27.5 Max length of rear window (diagonal), inch
0.054 Max length change of rear window, inch
0.027 Max bond point movement, inch
Elongation ratio is the stretched length of a section of adhesive
between the fiberglass and the plexi, divided by its unstretched length.
Door Cabin
elongation, in 0.071 0.027
Bond thickness, in Elongation Ratio
1/8 1.15 1.02
1/16 1.52 1.09
3/64 1.82 1.16
1/32 2.49 1.33
1/64 4.67 2.01
Bond thickness, in % elongation
1/8 15% 2%
1/16 52% 9%
3/64 82% 16%
1/32 149% 33%
1/64 367% 101%
Message 8
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| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
This was an awesome email. Thank you for truly educating me and making my d
ecision an easier one.
Anyone want to buy five tubes of Sikaflex, cleaner and primer. Darn, I coul
d have filled up my F250 diesel one time with the money I spent on that stu
ff or my Prius six or seven times. Oh , need to figure the hazardous waste
disposal fee also.
John G.
From: johnag5b@cableone.netTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: Re: RV10-Lis
t: window adhesives revisited.Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 10:13:09 -0700
On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:.... If I hadn't already p
ainted the interior of my canopy I would have added fiberglass to the insid
e of the window flange to thicken it so that I could deepen the flange to a
llow a greqater bond thickness Also, at initial trimming I would have als l
eft the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...We went through this and decid
ed not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the following will be of value to so
mebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion (actu
ally contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread sheet, wh
ich assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass. The resu
lts are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be posted.
Message 9
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| Subject: | HID replacement lights |
Just spent three hours swapping the halogen landing lights provided by Vans
with a set of 50W direct replacement HID lights. The before and after
pictures should be on http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661 in a few
days. Will be able to show the lights at OSH on the 31,1,2.
Message 10
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| Subject: | leg and wheel fairings |
Just fitted the fairings last afternoon. Outside temps were 112F; higher in
the hangar. Two questions: the plans call for extra layers of glass on the
intersection fairings but do not state where the glass goes. Anybody install
the extra glass? if so where did you put it? Also found that the areas where
they suggest no screws due to access can be easily handled using a button
head screw with an internal hex head. what kind of indicated airspeed
increase was experienced with fairings for a given power setting?
Message 11
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| Subject: | leg and wheel fairings |
Not scientific..but I showed about 14 knots. But again...not scientific.
Very happy with the speed increase and I thought the airplane handled a
little better. Also, my trim did not change. Now, after I did the test I
spent a lot of effort blending in the intersection fairings and they are at
the painter right now. My plan is to get them on the plan Friday and do
some more testing with the paint on..final config. Based on the first bit
of testing, I am hoping for the best.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 2:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: leg and wheel fairings
Just fitted the fairings last afternoon. Outside temps were 112F; higher in
the hangar. Two questions: the plans call for extra layers of glass on the
intersection fairings but do not state where the glass goes. Anybody install
the extra glass? if so where did you put it? Also found that the areas where
they suggest no screws due to access can be easily handled using a button
head screw with an internal hex head. what kind of indicated airspeed
increase was experienced with fairings for a given power setting?
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Archer ELT Antenna |
Jay,
ELT or MKR BCN?
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:38:42 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Archer ELT Antenna
Has anyone fabricated/installed the Archer ELT Antenna per the attached drawing?
It seems easy enough, but the devil's always in the details... Photos?
Cheers,
Jay
For those with email digest:
http://www.brinkmeyers.net/docs/ArcherELTAntennaRV10.pdf
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188442#188442
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/archereltantennarv10_186.pdf
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Archer ELT Antenna |
Keep in mind that any ELT will not meet the TSO requirement without its
manufacturer antenna. They are all TSO approved with their own specific
antenna, and you are required by regulation to have a TSO'd ELT
regardless of the type of aircraft, if you don't want to be bound by the
limitations of no ELT. Can't say how many FSDO types are that sharp on
the subject.
Rick Sked wrote:
>
> Jay,
>
> ELT or MKR BCN?
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:38:42 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Archer ELT Antenna
>
>
> Has anyone fabricated/installed the Archer ELT Antenna per the attached drawing?
It seems easy enough, but the devil's always in the details... Photos?
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
> For those with email digest:
> http://www.brinkmeyers.net/docs/ArcherELTAntennaRV10.pdf
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: window adhesives revisited. |
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a=C2-silicone based pro
duct I have to consider those ratio's also but,=C2- I have the video from
the Glasair folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive and there is
a gap left around the window to be filled after paint with Silpruf...this
should eliminate the contraction space=C2-problem.=C2- Given the differ
ent expansion and contraction rates for the plexi vs. fiberglass, it seems
that no matter what you did the only time the glass would not be either und
er negative or positive compression would be at the exact temperature that
occurred during installation. This would explain the cracks around the wind
ows installed with Weldon=C2-since the Weldon creates an ungiving, solid
bond between both materials. If you allow for expansion and the material us
ed in the expansion/contraction joint is flexible I think this would presen
t a better option than the Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows=C2
-with flox/epoxy and covering with glass cloth gives brute strength to th
e gap hopefully preventing the cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders wit
h 10 plus years on their aircraft with glass installed with Silpruf or simi
lar silicone=C2-and they had no problems...This is kinda getting like pri
mer wars in a way. If you get a chance to look at a Cirrus up close you wil
l see their windows are installed with a defined gap around the plexi to ca
bin flange, the gap is filled with a material either like proseal or silico
ne...maybe anyone with experience on the Cirrus windows may be able to shed
more light on that install. Till then...I'm sticking (literally) to Silpru
f install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b@cableone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On =C2-Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: .... If I hadn't al
ready painted the interior of my canopy I would have added fiberglass to th
e inside of the window flange to thicken it so that I could deepen the flan
ge to allow a greqater bond thickness Also,=C2-at initial trimming I woul
d have als left the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the fo
llowing will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion (actu
ally contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread sheet, wh
ich assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass. The resu
lts are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be posted.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Archer ELT Antenna |
That was kinda my point....that's why I asked if it was the ELT or MB since they
all come with their own antenna. Bob Archer is known for his coax makeshift
marker beacon ant. which work like a champ, along with the other sheet metal gems
for NAV/COM.
Rick Sked
40185
MY ELT will be outta date if I don't get this finished soon!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:27:57 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Archer ELT Antenna
Keep in mind that any ELT will not meet the TSO requirement without its
manufacturer antenna. They are all TSO approved with their own specific
antenna, and you are required by regulation to have a TSO'd ELT
regardless of the type of aircraft, if you don't want to be bound by the
limitations of no ELT. Can't say how many FSDO types are that sharp on
the subject.
Rick Sked wrote:
>
> Jay,
>
> ELT or MKR BCN?
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer@yahoo.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:38:42 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Archer ELT Antenna
>
>
> Has anyone fabricated/installed the Archer ELT Antenna per the attached drawing?
It seems easy enough, but the devil's always in the details... Photos?
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
> For those with email digest:
> http://www.brinkmeyers.net/docs/ArcherELTAntennaRV10.pdf
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: leg and wheel fairings |
Two layers of glass over the entire upper and lower intersection fairings. Those
parts as received from Van's are only 2 layers thick, and would not survive
without the extra layers.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188554#188554
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
Finished opening everything up this evening. Not flying yet, so, of course, no
issues with the bulkhead.
We did manage to easily remove the trim without getting into the tailcone. Did
it all from the outside. Should get the doublers installed tomorrow and plan to
have it all back together by Saturday. Drilling out 52 (?) rivets was the worst
part, so far. I elongated a couple of holes a bit, so might have to install
oversize rivets.
Would there be any problem installing a bolt or screw and lock nut in an oversize
hole?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188560#188560
Message 18
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Tested the new HID replacements tonight. The after pictures will be on the
http://www.planelights.com/ in a couple of days. The results were
extraordinary. I would not consider taxi at night with Vans halogen lights.
These lights are 3-4 times brighter and more focused than the standard
lights. I will show them if interested at OSH 31,1,2. I will be camping in
RV10 headquarters.
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