Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:25 AM - Re: HID lights ()
2. 08:45 AM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (John Jessen)
3. 09:10 AM - Re: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 (pascal)
4. 09:17 AM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (Rick Sked)
5. 09:18 AM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 09:45 AM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (John Gonzalez)
7. 09:46 AM - HS doublwers and j channels (John Cumins)
8. 09:56 AM - Re: HS doublwers and j channels (Rick Sked)
9. 09:58 AM - Re: HS doublwers and j channels (egohr1)
10. 10:02 AM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (Ben Westfall)
11. 10:12 AM - Re: HS doublwers and j channels (pascal)
12. 10:14 AM - Re: HS doublwers and j channels (John Jessen)
13. 10:34 AM - Re: HS doublwers and j channels (John Cumins)
14. 10:38 AM - Garmin Navigation??? (Robin Marks)
15. 10:52 AM - Re: HS doublwers and j channels (John Jessen)
16. 11:24 AM - Re: HS doublwers and j channels (Rick Sked)
17. 11:38 AM - Re: HS doublwers and j channels (John Jessen)
18. 12:30 PM - OSH camping status .... lots of space available (Tim Olson)
19. 12:43 PM - Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available (David McNeill)
20. 12:51 PM - Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available (orchidman)
21. 12:53 PM - Re: HS doublers and j channels (Kelly McMullen)
22. 01:04 PM - Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available (John Jessen)
23. 01:10 PM - Re: Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
24. 01:16 PM - Re: Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available (Tim Olson)
25. 01:42 PM - Re: HS doublwers and j channels (pascal)
26. 02:24 PM - Re: Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection (linn Walters)
27. 03:26 PM - Re: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 (RobHickman@aol.com)
28. 04:04 PM - Re: HS doublers and j channels (John Cumins)
29. 04:07 PM - Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection (2eyedocs)
30. 04:50 PM - Re: Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available (Rick Sked)
31. 05:57 PM - Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available (orchidman)
32. 07:16 PM - Re: Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection (GenGrumpy@aol.com)
33. 07:33 PM - Re: Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection (linn Walters)
34. 07:52 PM - Re: HID lights (GenGrumpy@AOL.COM)
35. 09:19 PM - Re: window adhesives revisited. (John Cox)
36. 09:34 PM - Re: Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection (John Cox)
37. 10:25 PM - HIDs (David McNeill)
Message 1
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Can these HID lights be used with a Wig - Wag system that alternates from left
side to right?
Thanks
Ray
---- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> Tested the new HID replacements tonight. The after pictures will be on the
> http://www.planelights.com/ in a couple of days. The results were
> extraordinary. I would not consider taxi at night with Vans halogen lights.
> These lights are 3-4 times brighter and more focused than the standard
> lights. I will show them if interested at OSH 31,1,2. I will be camping in
> RV10 headquarters.
Message 2
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| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
Is this a discussion about the use of the windshield as a structural
component? I've not paid much attention to the windshield debate, but if
structural, then Weldon, I would think.
John Jessen
40328
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a silicone based product I
have to consider those ratio's also but, I have the video from the Glasair
folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive and there is a gap left
around the window to be filled after paint with Silpruf...this should
eliminate the contraction space problem. Given the different expansion and
contraction rates for the plexi vs. fiberglass, it seems that no matter what
you did the only time the glass would not be either under negative or
positive compression would be at the exact temperature that occurred during
installation. This would explain the cracks around the windows installed
with Weldon since the Weldon creates an ungiving, solid bond between both
materials. If you allow for expansion and the material used in the
expansion/contraction joint is flexible I think this would present a better
option than the Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows with flox/epoxy
and covering with glass cloth gives brute strength to the gap hopefully
preventing the cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders with 10 plus years
on their aircraft with glass installed with Silpruf or similar silicone and
they had no problems...This is kinda getting like primer wars in a way. If
you get a chance to look at a Cirrus up close you will see their windows are
installed with a defined gap around the plexi to cabin flange, the gap is
filled with a material either like proseal or silicone...maybe anyone with
experience on the Cirrus windows may be able to shed more light on that
install. Till then...I'm sticking (literally) to Silpruf install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b@cableone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
.... If I hadn't already painted the interior of my canopy I would have
added fiberglass to the inside of the window flange to thicken it so that I
could deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond thickness Also, at initial
trimming I would have als left the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the
following will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion
(actually contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread
sheet, which assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass.
The results are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be
posted.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
Any updates?
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "pascal" <pascal@rv10builder.net>
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
> Rob (or anyone in Oregon who knows)
> Status on the composite blade testing completed yet?
> -Performance on climb?
> -cruise?
> -smoothness compared to 2 and/or 3 blade props ?
> -Any general thoughts?
>
> Thanks!
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "pascal" <pascal@rv10builder.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 10:11 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: window adhesives revisited. |
Good point, I have not heard the "are the windows structural?" point come u
p as far as=C2-I can recall.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 8:39:54 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Is this a discussion about the use of the windshield as a structural compon
ent?=C2- I've not paid much attention to the windshield debate, but if st
ructural, then Weldon, I would think.=C2-
John Jessen
=C2-=C2- 40328
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a=C2-silicone based pro
duct I have to consider those ratio's also but,=C2- I have the video from
the Glasair folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive and there is
a gap left around the window to be filled after paint with Silpruf...this
should eliminate the contraction space=C2-problem.=C2- Given the differ
ent expansion and contraction rates for the plexi vs. fiberglass, it seems
that no matter what you did the only time the glass would not be either und
er negative or positive compression would be at the exact temperature that
occurred during installation. This would explain the cracks around the wind
ows installed with Weldon=C2-since the Weldon creates an ungiving, solid
bond between both materials. If you allow for expansion and the material us
ed in the expansion/contraction joint is flexible I think this would presen
t a better option than the Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows=C2
-with flox/epoxy and covering with glass cloth gives brute strength to th
e gap hopefully preventing the cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders wit
h 10 plus years on their aircraft with glass installed with Silpruf or simi
lar silicone=C2-and they had no problems...This is kinda getting like pri
mer wars in a way. If you get a chance to look at a Cirrus up close you wil
l see their windows are installed with a defined gap around the plexi to ca
bin flange, the gap is filled with a material either like proseal or silico
ne...maybe anyone with experience on the Cirrus windows may be able to shed
more light on that install. Till then...I'm sticking (literally) to Silpru
f install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b@cableone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On =C2-Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: .... If I hadn't al
ready painted the interior of my canopy I would have added fiberglass to th
e inside of the window flange to thicken it so that I could deepen the flan
ge to allow a greqater bond thickness Also,=C2-at initial trimming I woul
d have als left the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the fo
llowing will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion (actu
ally contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread sheet, wh
ich assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass. The resu
lts are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be posted. href
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matr
onics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matroni
=============
====
=======================
==
Message 5
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| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
I don't believe so. I believe the discussion is just for the side and door
windows.
Michael
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Is this a discussion about the use of the windshield as a structural compon
ent? I've not paid much attention to the windshield debate, but if structu
ral, then Weldon, I would think.
John Jessen
40328
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a silicone based product
I have to consider those ratio's also but, I have the video from the Glasa
ir folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive and there is a gap lef
t around the window to be filled after paint with Silpruf...this should eli
minate the contraction space problem. Given the different expansion and co
ntraction rates for the plexi vs. fiberglass, it seems that no matter what
you did the only time the glass would not be either under negative or posit
ive compression would be at the exact temperature that occurred during inst
allation. This would explain the cracks around the windows installed with W
eldon since the Weldon creates an ungiving, solid bond between both materia
ls. If you allow for expansion and the material used in the expansion/contr
action joint is flexible I think this would present a better option than th
e Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows with flox/epoxy and covering
with glass cloth gives brute strength to the gap hopefully preventing the
cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders with 10 plus years on their aircra
ft with glass installed with Silpruf or similar silicone and they had no pr
oblems...This is kinda getting like primer wars in a way. If you get a chan
ce to look at a Cirrus up close you will see their windows are installed wi
th a defined gap around the plexi to cabin flange, the gap is filled with a
material either like proseal or silicone...maybe anyone with experience on
the Cirrus windows may be able to shed more light on that install. Till th
en...I'm sticking (literally) to Silpruf install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b@cableone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
.... If I hadn't already painted the interior of my canopy I would have add
ed fiberglass to the inside of the window flange to thicken it so that I co
uld deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond thickness Also, at initial t
rimming I would have als left the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the fo
llowing will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion (actu
ally contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread sheet, wh
ich assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass. The resu
lts are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be posted.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 6
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| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
I have been discussing the side and the door windows.
John G.
From: rvbuilder@sausen.netTo: rv10-list@matronics.comDate: Thu, 19 Jun 2008
11:15:33 -0500Subject: RE: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
I don=92t believe so. I believe the discussion is just for the side and do
or windows.
Michael
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John JessenSent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:40 A
MTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: window adhesives revisi
ted.
Is this a discussion about the use of the windshield as a structural compon
ent? I've not paid much attention to the windshield debate, but if structu
ral, then Weldon, I would think.
John Jessen
40328
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick SkedSent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:40 PMT
o: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisite
d.
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a silicone based product
I have to consider those ratio's also but, I have the video from the Glasa
ir folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive and there is a gap lef
t around the window to be filled after paint with Silpruf...this should eli
minate the contraction space problem. Given the different expansion and co
ntraction rates for the plexi vs. fiberglass, it seems that no matter what
you did the only time the glass would not be either under negative or posit
ive compression would be at the exact temperature that occurred during inst
allation. This would explain the cracks around the windows installed with W
eldon since the Weldon creates an ungiving, solid bond between both materia
ls. If you allow for expansion and the material used in the expansion/contr
action joint is flexible I think this would present a better option than th
e Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows with flox/epoxy and covering
with glass cloth gives brute strength to the gap hopefully preventing the
cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders with 10 plus years on their aircra
ft with glass installed with Silpruf or similar silicone and they had no pr
oblems...This is kinda getting like primer wars in a way. If you get a chan
ce to look at a Cirrus up close you will see their windows are installed wi
th a defined gap around the plexi to cabin flange, the gap is filled with a
material either like proseal or silicone...maybe anyone with experience on
the Cirrus windows may be able to shed more light on that install. Till th
en...I'm sticking (literally) to Silpruf install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b@cableone.net>To
: rv10-list@matronics.comSent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-08
00) America/Los_AngelesSubject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
.... If I hadn't already painted the interior of my canopy I would have add
ed fiberglass to the inside of the window flange to thicken it so that I co
uld deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond thickness Also, at initial t
rimming I would have als left the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the fo
llowing will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion (actu
ally contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread sheet, wh
ich assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass. The resu
lts are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be posted. hre
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matr
onics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronic
s.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronic
s.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 7
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| Subject: | HS doublwers and j channels |
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags. I
noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I would think they
would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS front and rear
spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: HS doublwers and j channels |
The forming process tends to curve the parts, once you start to match drill
them and cleco them they end up being straight...unless they are REALLY cu
rved bad. I recall the spar doublers being this way for sure, I just used h
and pressure to bring them back to flat.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins@jcis.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42:16 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags.
=C2- I noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved.=C2- I w
ould think they would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS
front and rear spars and other spars.=C2- Has any one seen this in there
kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact.=C2- Box arrived via Fedex G
round.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
====
=======================
==
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: HS doublwers and j channels |
This is normal.
Some bending of the thick punched parts is unavoidable due to the forces need to
cut the thicker stock. Just bend it back over the edge of a bench prior to
match drilling.
--------
eric gohr
EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188619#188619
Message 10
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| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
Rick and all,
I asked Van personally at a gathering of like minded plane nuts a while ago
if the windows provided any structural strength. He said "oh a little, not
much but a little". I then said "So did you engineers say - We should add a
window there for strength". He sorta chuckled and said they did provide
some strength but not much. One thing he did say was the windows were
installed when they did the drop test but he couldn't remember if they blew
out or cracked. I always wondered if anyone has dropped one on its back
(hopefully in test). I assumed the results were good but I didn't ask.
-Ben
#40579
PDX
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Good point, I have not heard the "are the windows structural?" point come up
as far as I can recall.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 8:39:54 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Is this a discussion about the use of the windshield as a structural
component? I've not paid much attention to the windshield debate, but if
structural, then Weldon, I would think.
John Jessen
40328
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a silicone based product I
have to consider those ratio's also but, I have the video from the Glasair
folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive and there is a gap left
around the window to be filled after paint with Silpruf...this should
eliminate the contraction space problem. Given the different expansion and
contraction rates for the plexi vs. fiberglass, it seems that no matter what
you did the only time the glass would not be either under negative or
positive compression would be at the exact temperature that occurred during
installation. This would explain the cracks around the windows installed
with Weldon since the Weldon creates an ungiving, solid bond between both
materials. If you allow for expansion and the material used in the
expansion/contraction joint is flexible I think this would present a better
option than the Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows with flox/epoxy
and covering with glass cloth gives brute strength to the gap hopefully
preventing the cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders with 10 plus years
on their aircraft with glass installed with Silpruf or similar silicone and
they had no problems...This is kinda getting like primer wars in a way. If
you get a chance to look at a Cirrus up close you will see their windows are
installed with a defined gap around the plexi to cabin flange, the gap is
filled with a material either like proseal or silicone...maybe anyone with
experience on the Cirrus windows may be able to shed more light on that
install. Till then...I'm sticking (literally) to Silpruf install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b@cableone.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
.... If I hadn't already painted the interior of my canopy I would have
added fiberglass to the inside of the window flange to thicken it so that I
could deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond thickness Also, at initial
trimming I would have als left the flange one inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but maybe the
following will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal expansion
(actually contraction is critical) calculations in the attached spread
sheet, which assumes free movement of the plexi relative to the fiberglass.
The results are appended as text below in case the attachment can't be
posted.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: HS doublwers and j channels |
you'll be doing a lot of this.. look at the plans under the HS (or
respective section) and see what they look like when you install them.
Match the part number to the respective section. The only curving I
recall is one that required me to do it.
Congrats on the new kit!
Pascal
From: John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts
bags. I noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I
would think they would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the
HS front and rear spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there
kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex
Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
Message 12
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| Subject: | HS doublwers and j channels |
Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to see how
to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put in a padded
vise at several different positions and using hand forces, just push in
opposite direction of the curve, working your way along the length of the
doubler a little at a time until straight. No need to whack it with
anything resembling a club. Not sure about the J-curves. I think those
come back into alignment through cleco and riveting.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags. I
noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I would think they
would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS front and rear
spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
Message 13
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| Subject: | HS doublwers and j channels |
Thanks so much everyone. This saved me a phone call and looking stupid.
I greatly appreciate all the great info and the sharing of ideas and
concepts on this list.
John
40864
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to see how
to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put in a padded
vise at several different positions and using hand forces, just push in
opposite direction of the curve, working your way along the length of the
doubler a little at a time until straight. No need to whack it with
anything resembling a club. Not sure about the J-curves. I think those
come back into alignment through cleco and riveting.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags. I
noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I would think they
would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS front and rear
spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 14
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| Subject: | Garmin Navigation??? |
Garmin requires that one of the certified Garmin G900X dealers visit the
build to review the install and personally assist in calibrating the
system. I can appreciate that Garmin wants to make sure these advanced
systems are not cobbled into place and used without the benefit of a
proper set up.
We are fortunate because the panel builder AND the regional Garmin rep
will be by to work on our panel.
One funny side note is we received a call from the rep asking us for
directions to the build. Ahhhhh you work for Garmin and you need...
directions? Good thing I have a Dynon back up.
Robin
Do Not Archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | HS doublwers and j channels |
You will probably get a bunch of emails now, saying something like, "there
is no such thing as looking stupid or asking a stupid question." Which is
true, although some of us cannot possibly look anything other than stupid
:-). Anyway, don't hesitate to ask any question. Look in the archives, of
course, but do not hesitate to ask a question. We are all in this together,
and learning is part of it.
Having said all that, make sure that you do not settle for advice on this
list. There are very smart folks here giving good advice, but don't get
lulled into thinking that just because there is a group think or group
consensus on a matter of interest that it is correct. Always check with the
factory, and even then be careful about who is giving you the answer and how
deep they are likely to take it with you.
You are the builder and you need to therefore make the ultimate decision
about what is true and what is just group think. Be critical with yourself,
with your decision making, and you will be a very good builder.
John J
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Thanks so much everyone. This saved me a phone call and looking stupid.
I greatly appreciate all the great info and the sharing of ideas and
concepts on this list.
John
40864
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to see how
to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put in a padded
vise at several different positions and using hand forces, just push in
opposite direction of the curve, working your way along the length of the
doubler a little at a time until straight. No need to whack it with
anything resembling a club. Not sure about the J-curves. I think those
come back into alignment through cleco and riveting.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags. I
noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I would think they
would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS front and rear
spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: HS doublwers and j channels |
Besides...When you call Van's there is a good chance you will feel stupid w
hen you hang up regardless. so don't worry about that!!=C2- :)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:49:25 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
You will probably get a bunch of emails now, saying something like, "there
is no such thing as looking stupid or asking a stupid question."=C2- Whic
h is true, although some of us cannot possibly look anything other than stu
pid :-).=C2- Anyway, don't hesitate to ask any question.=C2- Look in th
e archives, of course, but do not hesitate to ask a question.=C2- We are
all in this together, and learning is part of it.=C2-
Having said all that, make sure that you do not settle for advice on this l
ist.=C2- There are very smart folks here giving good advice, but don't ge
t lulled into thinking that just because there is a group think or group co
nsensus on a matter of interest that it is correct.=C2- Always check with
the factory, and even then be careful about who is giving you the answer a
nd how deep they are likely to take it with you.=C2-
You are the builder and you need to therefore make the ultimate decision ab
out what is true and what is just group think.=C2- Be critical with yours
elf, with your decision making,=C2-and you will be a very good builder.
=C2-
John J
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Thanks so much everyone.=C2- This saved me a phone call and looking stupi
d.
I greatly appreciate all the great info and the sharing of ideas and concep
ts on this list.
John
40864
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Normal .=C2- Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to s
ee how to get them straight.=C2- In short, for the thick HS doubler, put
in a padded vise at several different positions and using hand forces, just
push in opposite direction of the curve, working your way along the length
of the doubler a little at a time until straight.=C2- No need to whack i
t with anything resembling a club.=C2- Not sure about the J-curves.=C2-
I think those come back into alignment through cleco and riveting.=C2-
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags.
=C2- I noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved.=C2- I w
ould think they would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS
front and rear spars and other spars.=C2- Has any one seen this in there
kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact.=C2- Box arrived via Fedex G
round.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
=C2- =C2- href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">
http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">
http://www.matronics.com/c =C2- =C2- http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion =C2- href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www
.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">htt
p://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">htt
==================
====
=======================
==
Message 17
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| Subject: | HS doublwers and j channels |
Now, now, Rick! That put a smile on my face.
JJ
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Besides...When you call Van's there is a good chance you will feel stupid
when you hang up regardless. so don't worry about that!! :)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:49:25 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
You will probably get a bunch of emails now, saying something like, "there
is no such thing as looking stupid or asking a stupid question." Which is
true, although some of us cannot possibly look anything other than stupid
:-). Anyway, don't hesitate to ask any question. Look in the archives, of
course, but do not hesitate to ask a question. We are all in this together,
and learning is part of it.
Having said all that, make sure that you do not settle for advice on this
list. There are very smart folks here giving good advice, but don't get
lulled into thinking that just because there is a group think or group
consensus on a matter of interest that it is correct. Always check with the
factory, and even then be careful about who is giving you the answer and how
deep they are likely to take it with you.
You are the builder and you need to therefore make the ultimate decision
about what is true and what is just group think. Be critical with yourself,
with your decision making, and you will be a very good builder.
John J
do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Thanks so much everyone. This saved me a phone call and looking stupid.
I greatly appreciate all the great info and the sharing of ideas and
concepts on this list.
John
40864
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to see how
to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put in a padded
vise at several different positions and using hand forces, just push in
opposite direction of the curve, working your way along the length of the
doubler a little at a time until straight. No need to whack it with
anything resembling a club. Not sure about the J-curves. I think those
come back into alignment through cleco and riveting.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags. I
noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I would think they
would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS front and rear
spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 18
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| Subject: | OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
Today I took a quick flight over to OSH and back to pick
someone up, and got to see the grounds. Couldn't see a
single camper yet.....so this years show must be a bust.
(kidding of course) Anyway, the grounds look to be well kept
and ready for the influx of people. They had only one runway
open, as they were doing some good construction on all of
the others. The new tower looks pretty good too. It was
hard not to get pumped up for the show, seeing the place
waiting for all of us to flock in.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
You may be right about the attendance. There seems to be a lot of emphasis
on early purchase of tickets.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH camping status .... lots of space available
Today I took a quick flight over to OSH and back to pick someone up, and got
to see the grounds. Couldn't see a single camper yet.....so this years show
must be a bust.
(kidding of course) Anyway, the grounds look to be well kept and ready for
the influx of people. They had only one runway open, as they were doing
some good construction on all of the others. The new tower looks pretty
good too. It was hard not to get pumped up for the show, seeing the place
waiting for all of us to flock in.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
dlm46007(at)cox.net wrote:
> You may be right about the attendance. There seems to be a lot of emphasis
> on early purchase of tickets.
>
> --
That must be why they extended the discount period [Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188655#188655
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: HS doublers and j channels |
I'm at the same point you are, with same observations. Progress is slow
when hangar reaches 110 by 10 am.
Kelly
40866
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Thanks so much everyone. This saved me a phone call and looking stupid.
>
>
>
> I greatly appreciate all the great info and the sharing of ideas and
> concepts on this list.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 40864
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Jessen
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:12 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
>
>
>
> Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to
> see how to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put
> in a padded vise at several different positions and using hand forces,
> just push in opposite direction of the curve, working your way along
> the length of the doubler a little at a time until straight. No need
> to whack it with anything resembling a club. Not sure about the
> J-curves. I think those come back into alignment through cleco and
> riveting.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John
> Cumins
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
>
> Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small
> parts bags. I noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all
> curved. I would think they would ne straight. They are used to be
> doublers for the HS front and rear spars and other spars. Has any
> one seen this in there kits besides me.
>
>
>
> All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via
> Fedex Ground.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
>
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 22
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| Subject: | OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
Gas prices and weather. Have you noticed the boomers walking across the
Midwest on almost a daily basis? Holy flying cows!
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OSH camping status .... lots of space available
You may be right about the attendance. There seems to be a lot of emphasis
on early purchase of tickets.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH camping status .... lots of space available
Today I took a quick flight over to OSH and back to pick someone up, and got
to see the grounds. Couldn't see a single camper yet.....so this years show
must be a bust.
(kidding of course) Anyway, the grounds look to be well kept and ready for
the influx of people. They had only one runway open, as they were doing
some good construction on all of the others. The new tower looks pretty
good too. It was hard not to get pumped up for the show, seeing the place
waiting for all of us to flock in.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
Ya, massive discount too. Is it the end of their fiscal year? :)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 2:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available
dlm46007(at)cox.net wrote:
> You may be right about the attendance. There seems to be a lot of emphasis
> on early purchase of tickets.
>
> --
That must be why they extended the discount period [Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188655#188655
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
Well, I'll always be happy to go to the show, but personally
I feel like I got bent over and drilled when they dropped the
family membership thing and now I have to buy 2 'student'
memberships for the 2 kids...and get crap that I don't need.
Why couldn't they just leave it as it was. Oh, and I don't
need to be reminded about my renewal beginning in what,
maybe February, if I don't expire until OSH. Those are the
things that bug me. But, I'll be going, and I'll be having
a ball.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
orchidman wrote:
>
>
> dlm46007(at)cox.net wrote:
>> You may be right about the attendance. There seems to be a lot of emphasis
>> on early purchase of tickets.
>>
>> --
>
> That must be why they extended the discount period [Laughing]
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188655#188655
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: HS doublwers and j channels |
In all seriousness, I have called Van's a few times at random hours (not
their tech hours). Scott and Joe have been great. Scott knows his stuff
and made a real effort to assist me with some issues, Joe usually
recommended I put it on a "to do list" and follow-up later- like after
everything is riveted?? that's a Gotcha! but they really are a good
group of folks that provide guidance. Yes there is one that will make
you look like a buffoon but as one gets more confidence those calls
become less personal.
For sure, as a new builder, take advantage of the support Van's provides
when needed.
Pascal
From: Rick Sked
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Besides...When you call Van's there is a good chance you will feel
stupid when you hang up regardless. so don't worry about that!! :)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <n212pj@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:49:25 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
You will probably get a bunch of emails now, saying something like,
"there is no such thing as looking stupid or asking a stupid question."
Which is true, although some of us cannot possibly look anything other
than stupid :-). Anyway, don't hesitate to ask any question. Look in
the archives, of course, but do not hesitate to ask a question. We are
all in this together, and learning is part of it.
Having said all that, make sure that you do not settle for advice on
this list. There are very smart folks here giving good advice, but
don't get lulled into thinking that just because there is a group think
or group consensus on a matter of interest that it is correct. Always
check with the factory, and even then be careful about who is giving you
the answer and how deep they are likely to take it with you.
You are the builder and you need to therefore make the ultimate decision
about what is true and what is just group think. Be critical with
yourself, with your decision making, and you will be a very good
builder.
John J
do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:28 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Thanks so much everyone. This saved me a phone call and looking
stupid.
I greatly appreciate all the great info and the sharing of ideas and
concepts on this list.
John
40864
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:12 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to
see how to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put
in a padded vise at several different positions and using hand forces,
just push in opposite direction of the curve, working your way along the
length of the doubler a little at a time until straight. No need to
whack it with anything resembling a club. Not sure about the J-curves.
I think those come back into alignment through cleco and riveting.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts
bags. I noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I
would think they would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the
HS front and rear spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there
kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex
Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://foru
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Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
dmaib@mac.com wrote:
>
> Finished opening everything up this evening. Not flying yet, so, of course, no
issues with the bulkhead.
> We did manage to easily remove the trim without getting into the tailcone. Did
it all from the outside. Should get the doublers installed tomorrow and plan
to have it all back together by Saturday. Drilling out 52 (?) rivets was the
worst part, so far. I elongated a couple of holes a bit, so might have to install
oversize rivets.
>
Not an answer for a purist, but depending on how bad it's off, a regular
rivet will do just fine. Unless, of course you have a lot of oversize
rivets on hand ...... ;-)
> Would there be any problem installing a bolt or screw and lock nut in an oversize
hole?
>
No problem .....just added weight.
Linn
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell prop and IO540D4A5 |
I have been flying the two blade composite for around 6 weeks on my RV-4.
Everyone that has flown in the RV-4 comments on how smooth the new prop is.
The 12 pound weight reduction on the nose also made the plane fly noticeably
better. It is hard to tell if there is any difference in speed.
Rob Hickman
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 28
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| Subject: | HS doublers and j channels |
Kelly
Yes it is, been hot here to but cooling off in the evenings. We are down to
inv. the many bags of small parts and needs to build shelf above garage
door foe all the flat skins.
Have fn and try and stay cool.
John G. Cumins
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS doublers and j channels
I'm at the same point you are, with same observations. Progress is slow when
hangar reaches 110 by 10 am.
Kelly
40866
John Cumins wrote:
Thanks so much everyone. This saved me a phone call and looking stupid.
I greatly appreciate all the great info and the sharing of ideas and
concepts on this list.
John
40864
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Normal. Check several of the web sites (jessen-rv10.com is one) to see how
to get them straight. In short, for the thick HS doubler, put in a padded
vise at several different positions and using hand forces, just push in
opposite direction of the curve, working your way along the length of the
doubler a little at a time until straight. No need to whack it with
anything resembling a club. Not sure about the J-curves. I think those
come back into alignment through cleco and riveting.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: HS doublwers and j channels
Well I am almost finished with my inventory down to the small parts bags. I
noticed the doublers and j-channel parts are all curved. I would think they
would ne straight. They are used to be doublers for the HS front and rear
spars and other spars. Has any one seen this in there kits besides me.
All other parts look perfect and all in tact. Box arrived via Fedex Ground.
Thanks
John
40864 inventory mode hope to start building this weekend
href= <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
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Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
I am sure I will show my vast knowledge of aluminum fatigue (or lack there of),
but it seems if you cover with a plate, you would never see a future crack that
may develop underneath. I understand the plate is to strengthen the part to
keep it from cracking. Is there a chance of a crack forming with the plate
riveted on?
Thanks, Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188685#188685
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
Not too bad of a discount, $2 a day times 5 days = enough to get that first bottle
of water for free!!
Rick Sked
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 1:07:33 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available
Ya, massive discount too. Is it the end of their fiscal year? :)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of orchidman
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 2:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available
dlm46007(at)cox.net wrote:
> You may be right about the attendance. There seems to be a lot of emphasis
> on early purchase of tickets.
>
> --
That must be why they extended the discount period [Laughing]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188655#188655
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: OSH camping status .... lots of space available |
ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
> Not too bad of a discount, $2 a day times 5 days = enough to get that first bottle
of water for free!!
>
> Rick Sked
> ---
I didn't spend a whole lot of time reading it but if I read it correctly, EAA is
not offering the discount. It is Jeppesen that is paying for the discount.
If that is in fact true, I will have to go by and thank them. They already get
some of my money and as soon as I get the -10 in the air, they will be getting
a bunch more. :?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188706#188706
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
Always a chance another crack will develop.....so.......future ACIs you look
at the other side (non-doubler side) as well as the doubler you install.
Hopefully, the engineering staff has done their homework and the doublers
will eliminate future crack possiblities....
grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
In a message dated 6/19/2008 6:09:30 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
2eyedocs@gmail.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "2eyedocs" <2eyedocs@gmail.com>
I am sure I will show my vast knowledge of aluminum fatigue (or lack there
of), but it seems if you cover with a plate, you would never see a future
crack that may develop underneath. I understand the plate is to strengthen the
part to keep it from cracking. Is there a chance of a crack forming with the
plate riveted on?
Thanks, Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188685#188685
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
I looked at the SB pictures, and I looked at my empcone ..... and for
the life of me, I cannot figure out what's moving enough to cause the
cracks. There must be a lot of flexing going on back there! I have no
doubt in my mind that the thickness of the doubler will prevent any
cracks from starting ...... or will prevent them from continuing if
they're already there. If you're still worried about the fix ...... bed
the doubler in proseal and then rivet before it sets.
Linn ..... 'tis a puzzlement.
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
> Always a chance another crack will develop.....so.......future ACIs
> you look at the other side (non-doubler side) as well as the doubler
> you install.
>
> Hopefully, the engineering staff has done their homework and the
> doublers will eliminate future crack possiblities....
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
> do not archive
>
> In a message dated 6/19/2008 6:09:30 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> 2eyedocs@gmail.com writes:
>
>
> I am sure I will show my vast knowledge of aluminum fatigue (or
> lack there of), but it seems if you cover with a plate, you would
> never see a future crack that may develop underneath. I
> understand the plate is to strengthen the part to keep it from
> cracking. Is there a chance of a crack forming with the plate
> riveted on?
> Thanks, Mark
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188685#188685
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used
> cars <http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007>.
> *
>
>
> *
Message 34
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The answer from the manufacturer is yes.
You need to warm up the lights for 1 minute in steady mode before going to
wig wag function.
I have mine, but not yet installed due to this pesky SB staring me in the
face.
grumpy
do not archive
In a message dated 6/19/2008 7:27:07 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
rdoerr@kc.rr.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: <rdoerr@kc.rr.com>
Can these HID lights be used with a Wig - Wag system that alternates from
left side to right?
Thanks
Ray
---- David McNeill <dlm46007@cox.net> wrote:
> Tested the new HID replacements tonight. The after pictures will be on the
> http://www.planelights.com/ in a couple of days. The results were
> extraordinary. I would not consider taxi at night with Vans halogen lights.
> These lights are 3-4 times brighter and more focused than the standard
> lights. I will show them if interested at OSH 31,1,2. I will be camping in
> RV10 headquarters.
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 35
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| Subject: | window adhesives revisited. |
They are no more structural that the steel tube installed from the
glareshield to the canopy.
John Cox.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
I have been discussing the side and the door windows.
John G.
________________________________
From: rvbuilder@sausen.net
Subject: RE: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
I don't believe so. I believe the discussion is just for the side and
door windows.
Michael
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 10:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Is this a discussion about the use of the windshield as a structural
component? I've not paid much attention to the windshield debate, but
if structural, then Weldon, I would think.
John Jessen
40328
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 3:40 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
Since I'm going the Silpruf method and it is also a silicone
based product I have to consider those ratio's also but, I have the
video from the Glasair folk on how to install using the Silpruf adhesive
and there is a gap left around the window to be filled after paint with
Silpruf...this should eliminate the contraction space problem. Given
the different expansion and contraction rates for the plexi vs.
fiberglass, it seems that no matter what you did the only time the glass
would not be either under negative or positive compression would be at
the exact temperature that occurred during installation. This would
explain the cracks around the windows installed with Weldon since the
Weldon creates an ungiving, solid bond between both materials. If you
allow for expansion and the material used in the expansion/contraction
joint is flexible I think this would present a better option than the
Weldon. Filling the areas around the windows with flox/epoxy and
covering with glass cloth gives brute strength to the gap hopefully
preventing the cracks. I talked to two Glasair builders with 10 plus
years on their aircraft with glass installed with Silpruf or similar
silicone and they had no problems...This is kinda getting like primer
wars in a way. If you get a chance to look at a Cirrus up close you will
see their windows are installed with a defined gap around the plexi to
cabin flange, the gap is filled with a material either like proseal or
silicone...maybe anyone with experience on the Cirrus windows may be
able to shed more light on that install. Till then...I'm sticking
(literally) to Silpruf install.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ackerman" <johnag5b@cableone.net>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13:09 AM (GMT-0800)
America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: window adhesives revisited.
On Jun 17, 2008, at 9:52 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
.... If I hadn't already painted the interior of my
canopy I would have added fiberglass to the inside of the window flange
to thicken it so that I could deepen the flange to allow a greqater bond
thickness Also, at initial trimming I would have als left the flange one
inch wide not 3/4" wide...
We went through this and decided not to post 2 months ago, but
maybe the following will be of value to somebody.
When we considered Sikaflex, I did the differential thermal
expansion (actually contraction is critical) calculations in the
attached spread sheet, which assumes free movement of the plexi relative
to the fiberglass. The results are appended as text below in case the
attachment can't be posted.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection |
A proper inspection views both sides. In this case the opposite of the
doubler will reveal any migration down the road. I am always amazed to
see builder's with cracks that do not document their length during a
Conditional. At the next Conditional they go 'Yup, still there'. Then
we measure it to create a baseline and find it has been slowly migrating
over the life of the airframe.
Stress relief and tortional transfer into the doubler are important
parts of the correction. No one is commenting on the appearance that
the CNC relief groove for the flanges (two of them) seem to be larger
than offered on the virgin parts. This could have been a manufacturing
crack which was treated by the builder (the factory) with deburring and
grinding prior to original assemblage. A crack is a crack is a crack.
It is not going away. It is coming back to play another day.
"Metal has memory".
Anyone want to play on a review of the pictures?
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of 2eyedocs
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 4:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: SB 08-6-1 Inspection
I am sure I will show my vast knowledge of aluminum fatigue (or lack
there of), but it seems if you cover with a plate, you would never see a
future crack that may develop underneath. I understand the plate is to
strengthen the part to keep it from cracking. Is there a chance of a
crack forming with the plate riveted on?
Thanks, Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=188685#188685
Message 37
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before and after pictures of my 10 are on
http://www.planelights.com/index.php?id=661
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