Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:59 AM - Dynon RPM (Chris and Susie McGough)
2. 05:09 AM - Re: Grt efis (Rob Kermanj)
3. 05:31 AM - Re: SB work (Lew Gallagher)
4. 05:37 AM - Re: Dynon RPM ()
5. 05:44 AM - Re: Dynon RPM (Jesse Saint)
6. 05:47 AM - Re: IO540 need an engine? (Lew Gallagher)
7. 05:57 AM - Re: leg and wheel fairings (Lew Gallagher)
8. 05:57 AM - Re: Dynon RPM (Chris and Susie McGough)
9. 06:26 AM - Re: Dynon RPM (Jesse Saint)
10. 07:47 AM - Re: Re: IO540 need an engine? (Kelly McMullen)
11. 09:53 AM - Re: leg and wheel fairings (Jim Berry)
12. 02:55 PM - How to fasten this exhaust nut? (Michael Wellenzohn)
13. 03:11 PM - Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? (Chris and Susie McGough)
14. 03:17 PM - AF 3500 Sensor pack questions (Michael Wellenzohn)
15. 03:27 PM - Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? (John Cox)
16. 03:37 PM - Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? (bcondrey)
17. 05:16 PM - Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? (Kelly McMullen)
18. 05:28 PM - Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? (Kelly McMullen)
19. 06:11 PM - Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? (linn Walters)
20. 06:25 PM - Re: SB work (GenGrumpy@AOL.COM)
21. 06:39 PM - Re: Control Stick interference (johngoodman)
22. 06:50 PM - Re: AF 3500 Sensor pack questions (John Testement)
Message 1
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Anyone got a Dynon thats flying. Having trouble getting the Tacho to read
correct . It under reads by 200rpm. We have tried several resistors
Chris
Message 2
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I have done some IFR also. email me offline.
Rob.
On Sat, Jun 21, 2008 at 1:24 PM, <PILOTDDS@aol.com> wrote:
> Has anyone done much hood time or actual IMC flying with the GRT units.I am
> a high time CFII and would like to discuss it
> offline.Pilotdds@aol.com-thanks.728DD-220hrs
>
>
> **************
> Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.
> (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
>
>
--
Rob Kermanj
Message 3
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Hey John, Tim,
Thanks, I was thinking we are incompetent!
Similar results -- we also started and finished the SB yesterday -- fortunately
the tail feathers were still off, but after spending all afternoon with the two
of us, our mutual feeling was "now were back to where we were yesterday"!
With all the drilling and pounding -- especially in that upper corner where the
crack is reported, I can't help but wonder if we didn't weaken it more than strengthen
it. But it's done.
Later, - Lew
Do not archive
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF due next week.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189026#189026
Message 4
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Chris, make sure you have the Pulses per Rev setting in the Dynon set correctly.
Mine is set to 1.5 and that is with dual Slick Mags. If will be different
if you have light speed etc.
It would also be helpful to have a optical sensor tach like the ones used
for Remote Control Airplanes. They work well at around $15 for these tests.
Ray
---- Chris and Susie McGough <VHMUM@bigpond.com> wrote:
>
> Anyone got a Dynon thats flying. Having trouble getting the Tacho to read
> correct . It under reads by 200rpm. We have tried several resistors
>
> Chris
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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I have gotten several Dynon's flying. Never had a problem with that.
The only place I have seen an issue is when at high RPM's with a
resistor that isn't big enough to dampen the spikes, as long as the
"pulses per revolution" is set to 1.5, I think it is. I have never
had a problem with bad readings at low RPM's. Where exactly are you
seeing the issue? Are you seeing it on both mags or just on one
specifically?
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 22, 2008, at 4:53 AM, Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
> >
>
> Anyone got a Dynon thats flying. Having trouble getting the Tacho to
> read correct . It under reads by 200rpm. We have tried several
> resistors
>
> Chris
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: IO540 need an engine? |
Hey Guys,
My partner pulled the trigger and did the "Buy it now" on this engine -- on MY
Ebay account by mistake since we had pulled it up on my account to look at it
at his house.
It has some "iffy" history -- new in 1965 and hit a fence in 1965, overshot runway
night landing in Tenn. And then prop strike listed by present owner ("hard
landing - gear and cowl damage") in CA but no FAA report?
It's supposed to arrive later next week and we'll see what we get. They assured
us the crank was checked, balanced, etc. -- any other obvious things we should
be looking for?
Van's says that the mounts on it for the Piper Comanche 260 should match up --
we'll see.
Later, - Lew
Do not archive
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF due next week.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189030#189030
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: leg and wheel fairings |
Hey Jim,
Thanks for the comment. I was wondering if we could cheat on the upper leg fairings,
but I may as well go ahead and double them up.
I don't quite get the instructions that say something like "we left them unreinforced
so that they'd be more flexible for fitting" ... after reinforcing them,
they still have to be flexed around the strut to install -- right?
And the instructions to use sheet metal screws on the upper, still bugs me. We'll
use nut plates where we can.
Later, - Lew
Do not archive
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF due next week.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189037#189037
Message 8
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Jesse I have the 2 sensor wires going to the switch with a resistor on each.
Dynon is set to1.5. I have not tried individual mags as do not know how.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon RPM
>
> I have gotten several Dynon's flying. Never had a problem with that.
> The only place I have seen an issue is when at high RPM's with a resistor
> that isn't big enough to dampen the spikes, as long as the "pulses per
> revolution" is set to 1.5, I think it is. I have never had a problem
> with bad readings at low RPM's. Where exactly are you seeing the issue?
> Are you seeing it on both mags or just on one specifically?
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Jun 22, 2008, at 4:53 AM, Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>
>> <VHMUM@bigpond.com
>> >
>>
>> Anyone got a Dynon thats flying. Having trouble getting the Tacho to
>> read correct . It under reads by 200rpm. We have tried several resistors
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Run it with the switch on left and then on right and see how it
compares to an optical tach. You do have dual slicks? Make sure your
optical tach is correct also. I haven't seen one with problems, but
it is definitely possible. Also, are you reading 200rpm off at a
certain reading, or at all rpm's? If the 200 is constant, then I
can't imagine what else could be the difference since a wrong setting
in the Dynon should give you a difference relative to rpm.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jun 22, 2008, at 8:53 AM, Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
> >
>
> Jesse I have the 2 sensor wires going to the switch with a resistor
> on each. Dynon is set to1.5. I have not tried individual mags as do
> not know how.
>
> Chris
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com
> >
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 10:38 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dynon RPM
>
>
>> <jesse@saintaviation.com>
>>
>> I have gotten several Dynon's flying. Never had a problem with
>> that. The only place I have seen an issue is when at high RPM's
>> with a resistor that isn't big enough to dampen the spikes, as
>> long as the "pulses per revolution" is set to 1.5, I think it is.
>> I have never had a problem with bad readings at low RPM's. Where
>> exactly are you seeing the issue? Are you seeing it on both mags
>> or just on one specifically?
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse@saintaviation.com
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> On Jun 22, 2008, at 4:53 AM, Chris and Susie McGough wrote:
>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> Anyone got a Dynon thats flying. Having trouble getting the Tacho
>>> to read correct . It under reads by 200rpm. We have tried several
>>> resistors
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: IO540 need an engine? |
Look very carefully at what documentation you get. Prop strikes
generally are not reportable incidents to the FAA.
What inspections were done on the engine? If it doesn't come with the
work order and all other paperwork from Lycon, I would contact Lycon
immediately for copies of all their paperwork. They are reputable and
should have those copies for at least one year after the overhaul.
They should be able to tell you what they did on the critical items
like the crank, crankcase, crank gear and accessory gears. Those take
the most stress in a prop strike. Since the 260 Comanche is the
source of the engine Van's chose, I would expect it to have the
correct mounts, although I don't know if that aircraft ever had more
than one style mount.
On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 5:43 AM, Lew Gallagher <lewgall@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> My partner pulled the trigger and did the "Buy it now" on this engine -- on MY
Ebay account by mistake since we had pulled it up on my account to look at it
at his house.
>
> It has some "iffy" history -- new in 1965 and hit a fence in 1965, overshot runway
night landing in Tenn. And then prop strike listed by present owner ("hard
landing - gear and cowl damage") in CA but no FAA report?
>
> It's supposed to arrive later next week and we'll see what we get. They assured
us the crank was checked, balanced, etc. -- any other obvious things we should
be looking for?
>
> Van's says that the mounts on it for the Piper Comanche 260 should match up --
we'll see.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> Do not archive
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF due next week.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189030#189030
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: leg and wheel fairings |
Lew,
I think Van's instructions are referring to getting a good fit between the lower
intersection fairing and the wheel pants, and upper fairing to fuselage/wing
surface. I did away with sheet metal screws or nutplates by using the method
of Vic Syracuse and others. My lower intersection fairings are permanently glassed
to the wheel pants, then split in line with the wheel pant split. Once the
fairing to wheel pant seam is micro'd and body worked it has a very clean, sexy
appearance.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189080#189080
Message 12
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| Subject: | How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
Hello There,
it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can not reach
it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go about it in order
to achieve the requested torque (140)
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
1/4 inch drive with extention. I had the same and with the thinner socket i
was anle to do it
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 7:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: How to fasten this exhaust nut?
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Hello There,
>
> it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can not
> reach it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go about
> it in order to achieve the requested torque (140)
>
> Thanks
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | AF 3500 Sensor pack questions |
Guys,
for those who are using the sensor pack from AFS where did you place the shunt
and the manifold sensor. Pictures appreciated.
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189146#189146
Message 15
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| Subject: | How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
Wow! Challenging picture:
Four ideas. 1)A 1/4" drive "thinwall" deep socket on an extension. 2)A
Torque Adapter(Snap-On makes them). Or 3)a sacrificial crows foot -
modified with your die-grinder and 4)remove the studs and use Hex driven
bolts into the head. Automotive racing headers use the Hex ones all the
time for such close interference.
Note: I have always found value in using S.Steel exhaust nuts as once
regular nuts corrode, the removal technique down the road is 3X as
challenging for non S.S. This nut and the related internal star washer
appear 'standard cadmium' plated.
John Cox
#600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: How to fasten this exhaust nut?
<rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Hello There,
it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can
not reach it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go
about it in order to achieve the requested torque (140)
Thanks
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
1/4" drive "wobble sockets" work great too. I've found them locally at Sears.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189151#189151
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
#1 or # 2. Loosen the nut just enough to be able to move the pipe a
little. Place socket on each nut to ensure the pipe is centered
between the studs.
Every Lycoming exhaust port is just like this.
On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 3:22 PM, John Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
>
> Wow! Challenging picture:
>
> Four ideas. 1)A 1/4" drive "thinwall" deep socket on an extension. 2)A
> Torque Adapter(Snap-On makes them). Or 3)a sacrificial crows foot -
> modified with your die-grinder and 4)remove the studs and use Hex driven
> bolts into the head. Automotive racing headers use the Hex ones all the
> time for such close interference.
>
> Note: I have always found value in using S.Steel exhaust nuts as once
> regular nuts corrode, the removal technique down the road is 3X as
> challenging for non S.S. This nut and the related internal star washer
> appear 'standard cadmium' plated.
>
> John Cox
> #600
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
> Wellenzohn
> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:50 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: How to fasten this exhaust nut?
>
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Hello There,
>
> it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can
> not reach it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go
> about it in order to achieve the requested torque (140)
>
> Thanks
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
Forgot to mention...my Mooney calls for an AN-310-3 nut there. Key is
to replace those nuts every few hundred hours, as soon as they show
any signs of corrosion.
On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 5:11 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
> #1 or # 2. Loosen the nut just enough to be able to move the pipe a
> little. Place socket on each nut to ensure the pipe is centered
> between the studs.
> Every Lycoming exhaust port is just like this.
>
> On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 3:22 PM, John Cox <johnwcox@pacificnw.com> wrote:
>>
>> Wow! Challenging picture:
>>
>> Four ideas. 1)A 1/4" drive "thinwall" deep socket on an extension. 2)A
>> Torque Adapter(Snap-On makes them). Or 3)a sacrificial crows foot -
>> modified with your die-grinder and 4)remove the studs and use Hex driven
>> bolts into the head. Automotive racing headers use the Hex ones all the
>> time for such close interference.
>>
>> Note: I have always found value in using S.Steel exhaust nuts as once
>> regular nuts corrode, the removal technique down the road is 3X as
>> challenging for non S.S. This nut and the related internal star washer
>> appear 'standard cadmium' plated.
>>
>> John Cox
>> #600
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
>> Wellenzohn
>> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:50 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: How to fasten this exhaust nut?
>>
>> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>>
>> Hello There,
>>
>> it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can
>> not reach it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go
>> about it in order to achieve the requested torque (140)
>>
>> Thanks
>> Michael
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>> #511
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: How to fasten this exhaust nut? |
John Cox wrote:
>
> Wow! Challenging picture:
>
snip
> Note: I have always found value in using S.Steel exhaust nuts as once
> regular nuts corrode, the removal technique down the road is 3X as
> challenging for non S.S. This nut and the related internal star washer
> appear 'standard cadmium' plated.
>
Brass nuts also work well without 'bonding' to the stud.
Linn
do not archive
> John Cox
> #600
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
> Wellenzohn
> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 2:50 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: How to fasten this exhaust nut?
>
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Hello There,
>
> it looks as if this hole was drilled too close the exhaust pipe. I can
> not reach it with a ratchet nut or an jaw wrench. Any idea ho tow to go
> about it in order to achieve the requested torque (140)
>
> Thanks
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189140#189140
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03143_371.jpg
>
>
>
Message 20
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I should have brought mine up to you to do!
I mis-calculated time yesterday, total time was about 16 hrs, 14 of that
with a dedicated helper.
We did 2 -10s side by side, with 2 guys working each bird.
My rudder trim cables were much harder to deal with than the other
bird.....wish I had put a connector into the trim wiring harness. That would
have
made it much easier to deal with the trim assy.
But....I'm now back up and ready for test hop.
grumpy-N184JM
do not archive
In a message dated 6/21/2008 9:19:35 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
Tim@MyRV10.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com>
Hey John, glad you got the SB going!
I just finished the SB today myself. Had me and 2 ladies
to do the work...they did most of it. We got the HS completely
off and ready to drill rivets in maybe 2-2.5 hours. Had the
doublers in place after lunch, the reassembly went fairly
well. I'll do a write-up on it. My reassembly was perhaps
longer than some peoples would be, due to some wiring related
things that I did in addition.
Total time was about 9.25 hours to complete the SB, and another
.25 to test fly it.
This one will definitely have a write-up, although I didn't
take much for photos since there is already a great online
photo display of it.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rv8erpics/RV10SB0861?authkey=HdMqmAzGxsc
I agree, as far as the holes in the HS go, except I removed my
HS and Elevators/trim tabs as a unit, so I only had to pull the
cables from the trim mechanism.
I did all of my rivets with a rivet gun, and it went real
quick and easy.
I found no cracks in the bulkhead, by the way, at 349 hours.
And I've flown it hard enough shaking that tail with that
stall series I did video and photos of that I figure if I
don't have cracks, not many will. More on that later though.
The job goes fastest with at least 2 people. Having 3 there was
nice in that I was always able to work nonstop as they helped
with the peripheral tasks so I could plug away.
Glad to be done!
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
GenGrumpy@aol.com wrote:
> **
>
> For what it's worth for you who have not begun the wonderful task of
> doing the SB on the rear bulkhead, here's some data for you.
>
> Started yesterday afternoon, worked all day today. 10.5 hrs so far with
> about 2 hrs to go to finish.
>
> This is with 2 people working dedicated full time, and assisted by 2
> others when it came time to pull the horizontals off with those blasted
> trim cables.
>
> For those still building the horizontals, make the holes for the cables
> bigger than the plans say in case you ever have to take the tail off......
>
> Riveting the doublers in and re-doing the top plate.......we used hand
> squeezers as well as 2 different jaw'd pneumatic squeezers plus rivet
> gun and bucking bar to get to all of the required rivets.
>
> Not a fun job at all.
>
> No cracks in my bulkhead at 70 hrs prior to installing the doublers.
>
> Not a fun or easy job. Find some extra hands to help - you'll need them.
>
> grumpy
> N`84JM
>
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Control Stick interference |
This is a very old thread, but it is exactly where I am right now. I did the duty
search and found that the range of motion due to the bolts is a minor issue
for me, as well.
With more people passing through this stage, any comments? I think the bolt interference
is a non issue because of the stops on the flight surfaces, right? Or,
have other people reversed the bolts?
John
[quote="armywrights(at)adelphia.n"]All,
Ive removed the front covers that fit around the control sticks. The plans say
to move the controls throughout their full range of motion to check for interference.
What is the actual full range of motion? Of course I can make the ends
of the bolts on the control stick bases touch the F1033L control column mounts
(P 39-7 and 39-8) as well as make the control pushrod (F1065) touch the curved
slot in the sides of the tunnel.
I believe that once I attach the control surfaces this extra movement will go away,
yet the plans say to check for interference without the surfaces installed
(p39-8 Step 3). What other experiences are out there? Did anyone have to hack
up the pre-formed slots or other areas once the control surfaces were installed?
Rob Wright
#392 QB Fuse
Control Sticks temp installed looks like an airplane!!
> [b]
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189190#189190
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| Subject: | AF 3500 Sensor pack questions |
Michael,
I mounted the shunt on the left firewall just inboard from the starter
contactor and the manifold sensor on the right firewall, on the inside, near
where the MP line comes through.
John Testement
jwt@roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Painting and final assembly
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AF 3500 Sensor pack questions
--> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Guys,
for those who are using the sensor pack from AFS where did you place the
shunt and the manifold sensor. Pictures appreciated.
Best Regards
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189146#189146
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7:52 AM
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