Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:10 AM - RNO (David McNeill)
2. 07:52 AM - 3/4 or 1" belt sander. (John Gonzalez)
3. 09:03 AM - Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander. (Jim Berry)
4. 11:02 AM - Re: blast tubes (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
5. 11:06 AM - Re: Hartzell ASC II prop test, Windows, fuel servo line (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 11:47 AM - Section 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin Deck (Ben Westfall)
7. 11:51 AM - Re: Hartzell ASC II prop test, Windows, fuel servo line (Jim Berry)
8. 12:09 PM - Re: Hartzell ASC II prop test, Windows, fuel servo line (PJ Seipel)
9. 01:30 PM - Re: Hartzell ASC II prop test, Windows, fuel servo line (RobHickman@AOL.COM)
10. 02:19 PM - Re: Section 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin Deck (LES KEARNEY)
11. 02:44 PM - Re: Section 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin Deck (John Gonzalez)
12. 03:01 PM - Loctite usage on brake line hardware (John Jessen)
13. 03:21 PM - Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware (Tim Olson)
14. 03:23 PM - Alternator belt (John Dunne)
15. 03:25 PM - Re: Section 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin Deck (Ben Westfall)
16. 03:29 PM - Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware (linn Walters)
17. 03:53 PM - Re: Alternator belt (Fred Williams, M.D.)
18. 04:04 PM - Re: Alternator belt (John Dunne)
19. 06:52 PM - No weld seat adjustment extension (Sheldon Olesen)
20. 07:05 PM - Quick Question (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
21. 07:11 PM - Re: alternator belt (Jim Berry)
22. 07:48 PM - Re: Alternator belt (wvu@ameritel.net)
23. 08:00 PM - Re: Quick Question (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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I am traveling to Reno area June 25-30; any recommendations for fuel ,
hangar, tie down? any builders in the area? advise via email to me directly.
Message 2
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| Subject: | 3/4 or 1" belt sander. |
Can anyone give me a source and name of a hand held belt sander in the abov
e dimensions.
Thanks,
John G. 409
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander. |
Got mine at Harbor Freight. I have also seen them at Tool King.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189580#189580
Message 4
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Here is a shroud and/or a complete kit.
http://www.glasairaviation.com/options/glasairoptfire.html#fuelpump
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: blast tubes
Yes, I have a tube on the magneto, and a larger one on the cabin
heat valves. I'm also planning to eventually add a cooling
shroud to the mechanical fuel pump on the engine, and put a
scat tube into that one as well. Just need to get a good deal
on the shroud.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
> Has anyone installed blast tubes to cool magnetoes or the cool cabin
> heat valve on the firewall?
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Hartzell ASC II prop test, Windows, fuel servo line |
Rob, how much Hysol did you end up using? Did you use it on the windscreen
also?
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of RobHickman@aol.com
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 1:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell ASC II prop test, Windows, fuel servo line
1. Hartzell Prop
The three blade composite prop for the IO-540 should be shipping from Hartz
ell this week. The current plan is for me to fly to Oshkosh (yes, this year
) with the three blade prop on the RV-10. The test data that I have seen s
hows that the plane should accelerate and climb better with the prop and sh
ould only be a couple of kts slower in cruise. Dan Benua's local RV-10 has
the same engine and ignition as mine so we should be able to compare the p
erformance of the two props, although my RV-10 will be heavier.
2. Window Installation
I installed the windows in this weekend using Hysol from Lancair http://www
.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=9360-QT
This stuff works awesome and in my opinion is the only way to install the w
indows. It is thick so it does not run all over, has a pot life of 1 hou
r, and when you get it on the windows it wipes off using Colman lantern fl
uid. It also does not eat into the window causing the cracking where the
clamps were. I drilled #40 holes around the edge of the window (not throug
h the window) and then used wing nut cleco's to hold the window in while th
e Hysol cured.
3. Fuel pump to servo hose.
The standard fuel line routing from Van's shows the 90 deg fitting on the f
uel pump and the straight on the servo, this causes the fuel line to get cl
oser than I like to the exhaust. I found that if you reverse the line and
put the 90 on the fuel servo you have tons of clearance with the exhaust.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 Almost Flying
________________________________
Message 6
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| Subject: | Section 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin Deck |
We just finished section 40 last night, installing the Flap Systems, and
I
thought I would write up my experiences to hopefully save some of you
the
time and frustrations that my wife and I endured while I created all
sorts
of new cuss words installing the flap torque tubes.
1). It=92s probably obvious to everyone but me but make sure ALL your
#12 and
=BC holes are drilled in the flap torque tubes allow for easy bolt
insertion /
removal before you get half the darn thing installed in the airplane.
The
location of the AN4 bolts between the F-1016 side panel and the outboard
fuse skin is a real challenge if things don=92t line up all that well.
It
seems the pieces shift ever so slightly after drilling for the horns on
the
bench then disassemble / reassemble in the plane.
2). If I were building a second plane I would seriously consider
waiting to
rivet the F-1015C-R&L=92s (Mid Cabin Decks) for as long as possible.
They
restrict your access down between the F-1016 side panels and the
outboard
fuse skin and you have so much stuff to complete in this 3 inch wide
area.
I would think that a ton of clecos would line the piece up enough that
it
shouldn=92t cause things to be off in the end. I remember thinking
several
times now during the build it would be nice if this mid cabin deck
wasn=92t
riveted. In the plans these are riveted in place in Sec 29.
3). Avoid creating a new 1/16=94 ' safety wire hole in your finger
like I did
when drilling one for the jam nut on the flap motor. It provides no
useful
benefit for your build.
-Ben
#40579
PDX
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell ASC II prop test, Windows, fuel servo line |
I also used Hysol for all windows, including the windscreen. It took about 1/2
qt. for all. Used it for the naca air vents also, in place of proseal.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189605#189605
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell ASC II prop test, Windows, fuel servo line |
I used the Hysol as well. I did all of the windows, as well as the
windscreen and used probably about 3/4 of the quart kit. I'll echo
Rob's comments, it's nice and thick and the pot life was enough to do 2
windows at a time with no rush.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Rob, how much Hysol did you end up using? Did you use it on the
> windscreen also?
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *RobHickman@aol.com
> *Sent:* Monday, June 23, 2008 1:34 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Hartzell ASC II prop test, Windows, fuel servo line
>
>
>
> 1. Hartzell Prop
>
>
>
> The three blade composite prop for the IO-540 should be shipping from
> Hartzell this week. The current plan is for me to fly to Oshkosh (yes,
> this year) with the three blade prop on the RV-10. The test data that
> I have seen shows that the plane should accelerate and climb better
> with the prop and should only be a couple of kts slower in cruise.
> Dan Benua's local RV-10 has the same engine and ignition as mine so we
> should be able to compare the performance of the two props, although
> my RV-10 will be heavier.
>
>
>
> 2. Window Installation
>
>
>
> I installed the windows in this weekend using Hysol from Lancair
> http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=9360-QT
>
>
>
> This stuff works awesome and in my opinion is the only way to install
> the windows. It is thick so it does not run all over, has a pot
> life of 1 hour, and when you get it on the windows it wipes off using
> Colman lantern fluid. It also does not eat into the window causing
> the cracking where the clamps were. I drilled #40 holes around the
> edge of the window (not through the window) and then used wing nut
> cleco's to hold the window in while the Hysol cured.
>
>
>
> 3. Fuel pump to servo hose.
>
>
>
> The standard fuel line routing from Van's shows the 90 deg fitting on
> the fuel pump and the straight on the servo, this causes the fuel line
> to get closer than I like to the exhaust. I found that if you
> reverse the line and put the 90 on the fuel servo you have tons of
> clearance with the exhaust.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rob Hickman
>
> N402RH RV-10 Almost Flying
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *
>
>
> *
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell ASC II prop test, Windows, fuel servo line |
About half the kit for the windshield and back windows.
Rob Hickman
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Section 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin Deck |
Ben
Re item =23 3=2E You are not a real builder if you haven=27t left a few
blood splatters in the fuse=2E
Cheers
Les
=2340643
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From=3A Ben Westfall =3Crv10=40sinkrate=2Ecom=3E
Date=3A Tuesday=2C June 24=2C 2008 1=3A01 pm
Subject=3A RV10-List=3A Section 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin Deck
To=3A rv10-list=40matronics=2Ecom
=3E We just finished section 40 last night=2C installing the Flap
=3E Systems=2C and I
=3E thought I would write up my experiences to hopefully save some
=3E of you the
=3E time and frustrations that my wife and I endured while I created
=3E all sorts
=3E of new cuss words installing the flap torque tubes=2E
=3E
=3E
=3E
=3E 1)=2E It=92s probably obvious to everyone but me but make sure ALL
=3E your =2312 and
=3E =BC holes are drilled in the flap torque tubes allow for easy bolt
=3E insertion /
=3E removal before you get half the darn thing installed in the
=3E airplane=2E The
=3E location of the AN4 bolts between the F-1016 side panel and the
=3E outboardfuse skin is a real challenge if things don=92t line up
=3E all that well=2E It
=3E seems the pieces shift ever so slightly after drilling for the
=3E horns on the
=3E bench then disassemble / reassemble in the plane=2E
=3E
=3E
=3E
=3E 2)=2E If I were building a second plane I would seriously
=3E consider waiting to
=3E rivet the F-1015C-R=26L=92s (Mid Cabin Decks) for as long as
=3E possible=2E They
=3E restrict your access down between the F-1016 side panels and the
=3E outboardfuse skin and you have so much stuff to complete in this
=3E 3 inch wide area=2E
=3E I would think that a ton of clecos would line the piece up
=3E enough that it
=3E shouldn=92t cause things to be off in the end=2E I remember
=3E thinking several
=3E times now during the build it would be nice if this mid cabin
=3E deck wasn=92t
=3E riveted=2E In the plans these are riveted in place in Sec 29=2E
=3E
=3E
=3E
=3E 3)=2E Avoid creating a new 1/16=94 ' safety wire hole in your
=3E finger like I did
=3E when drilling one for the jam nut on the flap motor=2E It
=3E provides no useful
=3E benefit for your build=2E
=3E
=3E
=3E
=3E -Ben
=3E
=3E =2340579
=3E
=3E PDX
=3E
=3E
=3E
=3E
=3E
=3E
Message 11
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| Subject: | Section 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin Deck |
3) The 1/16" hole in your finger works great if you tie a peice of dental f
loss to the finger and it makes flossing much easier!
From: rv10@sinkrate.comTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: Secti
on 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin DeckDate: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 11:45:49 -0700
We just finished section 40 last night, installing the Flap Systems, and I
thought I would write up my experiences to hopefully save some of you the t
ime and frustrations that my wife and I endured while I created all sorts o
f new cuss words installing the flap torque tubes.
1). It=92s probably obvious to everyone but me but make sure ALL your #12 a
nd =BC holes are drilled in the flap torque tubes allow for easy bolt inser
tion / removal before you get half the darn thing installed in the airplane
. The location of the AN4 bolts between the F-1016 side panel and the outb
oard fuse skin is a real challenge if things don=92t line up all that well.
It seems the pieces shift ever so slightly after drilling for the horns o
n the bench then disassemble / reassemble in the plane.
2). If I were building a second plane I would seriously consider waiting t
o rivet the F-1015C-R&L=92s (Mid Cabin Decks) for as long as possible. The
y restrict your access down between the F-1016 side panels and the outboard
fuse skin and you have so much stuff to complete in this 3 inch wide area.
I would think that a ton of clecos would line the piece up enough that it
shouldn=92t cause things to be off in the end. I remember thinking severa
l times now during the build it would be nice if this mid cabin deck wasn
=92t riveted. In the plans these are riveted in place in Sec 29.
3). Avoid creating a new 1/16=94 ' safety wire hole in your finger like
I did when drilling one for the jam nut on the flap motor. It provides no
useful benefit for your build.
-Ben
#40579
PDX
Message 12
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| Subject: | Loctite usage on brake line hardware |
Are folks using Loctite on the brake line threads into the M/C's? If so,
which type and where did you get it? If not, what did you use and where did
you get that?
Thanks,
John J
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware |
I think I just used liquid teflon tape....any auto parts store.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Jessen wrote:
>
> Are folks using Loctite on the brake line threads into the M/C's? If so,
> which type and where did you get it? If not, what did you use and where did
> you get that?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John J
>
Message 14
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Anyone know the actual length of the alternator belt to suit the standard
alternator as supplied by Vans?
I was supplied a standard belt at 37.6" (Korean made 37A19773-376) but I'm
guessing the maximum I can use is around 32-33''?
I know this was mentioned recently as a Gates number 7365 XL110925 but when
I mention these numbers around here I get blank looks.
Do these numbers somehow equate to the length of belt?
Any clues appreciated
John 40315
Message 15
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| Subject: | Section 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin Deck |
Thanks for all the cheers of support. I've remained band aid free and have
not donated any blood for 40 sections now. This one bit me 3 separate
times. I am missing a patch of skin on my thumb from the drill motor after
the bit stuck while drilling out the torque tubes. Of course the 1/16" hole
for safety wire. I also burned my index finger pretty good picking up a
spacer that shot across the room after thinning it down on the scotch brite
wheel.
I was starting to worry that I'd never become an official RV builder. I
have knocked over a tray of rivets but it was nearly empty. maybe 20 or so.
Good times!
-Ben
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of LES KEARNEY
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Section 40 Flap System and Mid Cabin Deck
Ben
Re item # 3. You are not a real builder if you haven't left a few blood
splatters in the fuse.
Cheers
Les
#40643
Do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware |
John Jessen wrote:
>
> Are folks using Loctite on the brake line threads into the M/C's?
Not me.
> If so,
> which type and where did you get it? If not, what did you use and where did
> you get that?
>
I use three things on tapered pipe thread. I use teflon tape ..... No
flames here, he asked what I do ..... but be sure not to get it on the
first thread ..... , teflon paste, and 'fuel lube' ..... all with
excellent results. Hardware store for the first two and ACS for the third.
Linn
> Thanks,
>
> John J
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator belt |
John;
Don't know if it helps but the number on my alt belt is a "bando rpf"
2355 9.5 x 900 La
I measured the circumference and got 35 and 3/4 inches. I have a plane
power alternator and the bolt is about 1/2 way.
Fred.
John Dunne wrote:
>
> Anyone know the actual length of the alternator belt to suit the
> standard alternator as supplied by Vans?
>
> I was supplied a standard belt at 37.6 (Korean made 37A19773-376) but
> Im guessing the maximum I can use is around 32-33?
>
> I know this was mentioned recently as a Gates number 7365 XL110925 but
> when I mention these numbers around here I get blank looks.
>
> Do these numbers somehow equate to the length of belt?
>
> Any clues appreciated
>
> John 40315
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 18
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Thanks Fred, I'm gathering that the 2355 number represents 35.5" approx and
therefore maybe the Gates number 7365 is 36.5".
These would still be too big as my bolt is at its maximum and I reckon the
distance around is closer to 32.5" The ring gear is a 10" standard as far as
I can tell.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Wednesday, 25 June 2008 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alternator belt
<drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
John;
Don't know if it helps but the number on my alt belt is a "bando rpf"
2355 9.5 x 900 La
I measured the circumference and got 35 and 3/4 inches. I have a plane
power alternator and the bolt is about 1/2 way.
Fred.
John Dunne wrote:
>
> Anyone know the actual length of the alternator belt to suit the
> standard alternator as supplied by Vans?
>
> I was supplied a standard belt at 37.6" (Korean made 37A19773-376) but
> I'm guessing the maximum I can use is around 32-33''?
>
> I know this was mentioned recently as a Gates number 7365 XL110925 but
> when I mention these numbers around here I get blank looks.
>
> Do these numbers somehow equate to the length of belt?
>
> Any clues appreciated
>
> John 40315
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 19
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| Subject: | No weld seat adjustment extension |
Since I am welding challenged I had to think of a different way to
lengthen my seat adjustment T handles. I found that a 7/16" x .065
wall 6061-T6 rigid tube worked almost perfectly. Cut the tube to the
length you want and drill out one end with a 5/16" drill to about
1/2" and tap the other end with 5/16-24 tap. Cut off the head of an
approximately AN5-10 bolt. Push the unthreaded end of the bolt into
the T handle and match drill the 1/8" hole on the drill press.
Pound the roll pin into the T handle and that part is done. Thread
the T handle on to the tube. On the other end of the tube measure
1/4" from the end and center punch the mark. Drill the 1/8" hole
through one side and then line up the hole with the plunger assembly
hole and drill through. Be careful to keep the T-handle lined up
properly with the base. Put an 1/8" roll pin and its done. The
thread depth on the inside of the tube is less than optimal but I was
unable to pull the T handle out of the tube using all my strength.
Maybe one of you Charlie Atlas types can. If it bugs you drill it
for another roll pin.
Sheldon Olesen
#40080 Going to Osh but not my plane
Fuse left to paint
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Message 20
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Can somebody get me the measurement from the wing tie-down points to the
floor? I've had it on my "to do" list to get a set of wing jacks but am
out of town at the moment and would like to get them ordered.
Thanks.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: alternator belt |
My Plane Power install instructions call for 15355 Dayco or 7355XL Gates.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189689#189689
Message 22
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Mine is a Gates 7312 which was bought at NAPA.
Anh
N591VU-flying
>
>
>
> Thanks Fred, I'm gathering that the 2355 number represents 35.5" approx
> and
> therefore maybe the Gates number 7365 is 36.5".
> These would still be too big as my bolt is at its maximum and I reckon the
> distance around is closer to 32.5" The ring gear is a 10" standard as far
> as
> I can tell.
> John
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
> M.D.
> Sent: Wednesday, 25 June 2008 8:53 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alternator belt
>
> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>
> John;
>
> Don't know if it helps but the number on my alt belt is a "bando rpf"
> 2355 9.5 x 900 La
> I measured the circumference and got 35 and 3/4 inches. I have a plane
> power alternator and the bolt is about 1/2 way.
>
> Fred.
>
>
> John Dunne wrote:
>>
>> Anyone know the actual length of the alternator belt to suit the
>> standard alternator as supplied by Vans?
>>
>> I was supplied a standard belt at 37.6" (Korean made 37A19773-376) but
>> I'm guessing the maximum I can use is around 32-33''?
>>
>> I know this was mentioned recently as a Gates number 7365 XL110925 but
>> when I mention these numbers around here I get blank looks.
>>
>> Do these numbers somehow equate to the length of belt?
>>
>> Any clues appreciated
>>
>> John 40315
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
The ones I used are real cheap right now...$30 each ain't bad at all.
Refer to:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html#Jacking_the_RV-10
This is wha tthey are:
3 TON SUPER HEAVY DUTY LONG RAM HYDRAULIC FLAT BOTTOM JACK
Enormous Stroke for Big Jobs
Ideal for use on hydraulic cranes, engine hoists, and a wide variety of
applications for mechanics, truckers, farmers, and off-road enthusiasts.
Enormous 20'' stroke for jobs requiring a large lift. Baked enamel
finish. 1 piece handle.
* Capacity: 3 ton
* Max. Height: 44-1/2''
* Min. height: 24''
* Stroke: 20''
* Shaft diameter: 1-7/64''
* Pinhole size: 5/8''
* Weight: 27-1/2 lbs.
ITEM 36468-2VGA
Price: $29.99
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Can somebody get me the measurement from the wing tie-down points to the
> floor? Ive had it on my to do list to get a set of wing jacks but am
> out of town at the moment and would like to get them ordered.
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> N442PM (flying)
>
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