Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:56 AM - Re: Quick Question (gary)
2. 06:20 AM - Re: Quick Question (Tim Olson)
3. 07:34 AM - Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander. (johngoodman)
4. 07:34 AM - Re: Quick Question (Ralph E. Capen)
5. 07:54 AM - Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware (John Jessen)
6. 08:34 AM - Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware (Tim Olson)
7. 08:49 AM - Re: Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander. (John Gonzalez)
8. 09:15 AM - Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware (Rick Sked)
9. 09:43 AM - Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware (Rick Sked)
10. 10:57 AM - Re: Quick Question (linn Walters)
11. 02:16 PM - Re: Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander. (MauleDriver)
12. 03:45 PM - Off topic - Need a qucik 'fix'??? (McGANN, Ron)
13. 05:29 PM - Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander. (johngoodman)
14. 06:50 PM - Re: Quick Question (John Cox)
15. 07:07 PM - Re: RNO (AirMike)
16. 07:11 PM - Re: Quick Question (Tim Olson)
17. 07:15 PM - Re: Quick Question (linn Walters)
18. 09:07 PM - Re: Off topic - Need a qucik 'fix'??? (Rick Sked)
19. 10:35 PM - Re: Quick Question (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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I went to measure mine and discovered that one wing is an inch lower than
the other. I had not noticed it before but if you make your jack 28" you
will have 1" clearance to the ring (29" on one side 30" on the other)
Gary
40274 Flying.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Quick Question
Can somebody get me the measurement from the wing tie-down points to the
floor? I've had it on my "to do" list to get a set of wing jacks but am out
of town at the moment and would like to get them ordered.
Thanks.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
Actually, I'd avoid making them all the way that tall if you can.
The jacks I used are 24", which makes it so that if you lower them,
you have less of a chance of running the wings into them if you roll
the plane in and out. I usually leave mine parked under the wings,
out about 2' from the end so you don't trip on them. Then they're
ready for use without lugging them too far....and they clear
the ailerons if they are down when you push the plane back.
The 20" stroke gives it all the reach it needs.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
gary wrote:
> I went to measure mine and discovered that one wing is an inch lower
> than the other. I had not noticed it before but if you make your jack
> 28 you will have 1 clearance to the ring (29 on one side 30 on the
> other)
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 40274 Flying.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Condrey,
> Bob (US SSA)
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 24, 2008 9:03 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Quick Question
>
>
>
> Can somebody get me the measurement from the wing tie-down points to the
> floor? Ive had it on my to do list to get a set of wing jacks but am
> out of town at the moment and would like to get them ordered.
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> N442PM (flying)
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander. |
John,
I have the one Harbor Freight sells. Inexpensive but the belts are a different
story. It's a good sander for light work but can quickly bog down with any heavy
work. It also is a little bulky and the belt does not rotate. The housing that
covers the back side of the belt can interfere with your work, as well.
The best one I've seen was pneumatic, and very expensive, but I can't remember
the brand. Dave Saylor at AirCrafters was using it.
If I were doing it over, I'd probably go with a pneumatic one. Here is an inexpensive
one I found with a quick search of the internet:
http://www.toolsource.com/belt-sander-p-76749.html?sourceid=nextag
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189745#189745
Message 4
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Where are you looking to 'get' these from?
I've been surfing for them a bit and can't seem to find what I think I'm
looking for.
I'm thinking about a tripod type stand looking thing with a bottle jack in the
middle - or some reasonable facsimile thereof.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: gary <speckter@comcast.net>
>Sent: Jun 25, 2008 8:49 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Quick Question
>
>I went to measure mine and discovered that one wing is an inch lower than
>the other. I had not noticed it before but if you make your jack 28" you
>will have 1" clearance to the ring (29" on one side 30" on the other)
>
>
>
>Gary
>
>40274 Flying.
>
>
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
>SSA)
>Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 9:03 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Quick Question
>
>
>
>Can somebody get me the measurement from the wing tie-down points to the
>floor? I've had it on my "to do" list to get a set of wing jacks but am out
>of town at the moment and would like to get them ordered.
>
>
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>
>Bob
>
>N442PM (flying)
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Loctite usage on brake line hardware |
That's it? Nothing special and expensive? Geez. How disappointing...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Loctite usage on brake line hardware
I think I just used liquid teflon tape....any auto parts store.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware |
If you want me to buy some for you, I can paint it with gold paint
and sell it to you for $50 or something like that. :)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Jessen wrote:
>
> That's it? Nothing special and expensive? Geez. How disappointing...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 3:19 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Loctite usage on brake line hardware
>
>
> I think I just used liquid teflon tape....any auto parts store.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
> Do not archive
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander. |
Thanks for the link. I am still wondering whether I will purchase one. I ju
st want to make some clean, shallow channels into the windows and the canop
y and doors so that the glass cloth will lay in it. I just purchased a new
angled die grinder and I think the 1 1/2" disks will probably do just as go
od a job with careful hand pressure. Because non of the lines are straight
it might be a better way to go.
Do Not Archive> Subject: RV10-List: Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander.> From: johng
oodman@earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 07:32:04 -0700> To: rv10-list@
n@earthlink.net>> > John,> I have the one Harbor Freight sells. Inexpensive
but the belts are a different story. It's a good sander for light work but
can quickly bog down with any heavy work. It also is a little bulky and th
e belt does not rotate. The housing that covers the back side of the belt c
an interfere with your work, as well.> > The best one I've seen was pneumat
ic, and very expensive, but I can't remember the brand. Dave Saylor at AirC
rafters was using it. > > If I were doing it over, I'd probably go with a p
neumatic one. Here is an inexpensive one I found with a quick search of the
internet:> http://www.toolsource.com/belt-sander-p-76749.html?sourceid=n
extag> > John> > --------> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished> N711JG reser
ved> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/vi
===============> > >
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware |
Linn,
I think John is refering to the pins/bolts that hold the caliper together, not
the plumbing parts.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 3:25:08 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Loctite usage on brake line hardware
John Jessen wrote:
>
> Are folks using Loctite on the brake line threads into the M/C's?
Not me.
> If so,
> which type and where did you get it? If not, what did you use and where did
> you get that?
>
I use three things on tapered pipe thread. I use teflon tape ..... No
flames here, he asked what I do ..... but be sure not to get it on the
first thread ..... , teflon paste, and 'fuel lube' ..... all with
excellent results. Hardware store for the first two and ACS for the third.
Linn
> Thanks,
>
> John J
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Loctite usage on brake line hardware |
Opps I stand corrected, was the lines...I used fuel lube on mine, no leaks.
Rick Sked
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 3:25:08 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Loctite usage on brake line hardware
John Jessen wrote:
>
> Are folks using Loctite on the brake line threads into the M/C's?
Not me.
> If so,
> which type and where did you get it? If not, what did you use and where did
> you get that?
>
I use three things on tapered pipe thread. I use teflon tape ..... No
flames here, he asked what I do ..... but be sure not to get it on the
first thread ..... , teflon paste, and 'fuel lube' ..... all with
excellent results. Hardware store for the first two and ACS for the third.
Linn
> Thanks,
>
> John J
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
Buy the Harbor Freight tall bottle jacks and make your own 'stabilizer'
out of a foot square piece of steel. Flatten the ends of suitable
lengths of 1/2" EMT and use pieces of angle iron on the base corners and
at the upper end ..... large hose clamp to hold the upper end or make a
huge ''washer" to attach the angles to. Be sure to label
"experimental"!!! ;-)
Linn
do not archive
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> Where are you looking to 'get' these from?
>
> I've been surfing for them a bit and can't seem to find what I think I'm
> looking for.
>
> I'm thinking about a tripod type stand looking thing with a bottle jack in the
> middle - or some reasonable facsimile thereof.....
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>> From: gary <speckter@comcast.net>
>> Sent: Jun 25, 2008 8:49 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Quick Question
>>
>> I went to measure mine and discovered that one wing is an inch lower than
>> the other. I had not noticed it before but if you make your jack 28" you
>> will have 1" clearance to the ring (29" on one side 30" on the other)
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> 40274 Flying.
>>
>>
>>
>> _____
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
>> SSA)
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 9:03 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Quick Question
>>
>>
>>
>> Can somebody get me the measurement from the wing tie-down points to the
>> floor? I've had it on my "to do" list to get a set of wing jacks but am out
>> of town at the moment and would like to get them ordered.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> N442PM (flying)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander. |
The electric Makita seems to be a very good tool - that's what Dave
Saylor's team was using when I went out there. But it runs over $200.
Experimenting around a bit I found a HF Model 96989 Jumbo Air Belt
Sander - it's got a 1" belt, it's light weight compared to electric,
and worked quite nicely for me. One possible consideration regarding
air and electric is where are you going to work? Fiberglass dust sent
me outside or in an open hangar for most of the work and while my air
lines reached those spots, electric would have been easier. This tool
was about $60.
I also found an electric 1/2" belt sander from HF - completely useless
for the work required so far but it was less than $40.
A 3" belt sander from Sears turned out to be more useful than I would
have imagined. Great for rough trimming the canopy top but even used it
on the doors - very easy to get a straight line with. Prices vary
widely but I recall $60 will do it.
A good shop vac is the companion tool for fiberglass sanding - having a
filter bag installed is critical unless you just want to recirculate the
dust into every nook and cranny of every inch of everything.
johngoodman wrote:
>
> John,
> I have the one Harbor Freight sells. Inexpensive but the belts are a different
story. It's a good sander for light work but can quickly bog down with any heavy
work. It also is a little bulky and the belt does not rotate. The housing
that covers the back side of the belt can interfere with your work, as well.
>
> The best one I've seen was pneumatic, and very expensive, but I can't remember
the brand. Dave Saylor at AirCrafters was using it.
>
> If I were doing it over, I'd probably go with a pneumatic one. Here is an inexpensive
one I found with a quick search of the internet:
> http://www.toolsource.com/belt-sander-p-76749.html?sourceid=nextag
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189745#189745
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Off topic - Need a qucik 'fix'??? |
So you're staring at the monitor and craving an aviation fix???
http://electricoyster.com/esp3d/ <http://electricoyster.com/esp3d/>
cheers,
Ron
187 still finishing
do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: 3/4 or 1" belt sander. |
First, I did a disservice to the HF sander; it actually does rotate, but my other
caveats stand.
I think MauleDriver is right; the 3" belt sander seems to be best for a lot of
jobs. Your suggestion to use a small die grinder may be the way to go.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189837#189837
Message 14
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Message 15
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Jet West is pretty good. Gas is a bit pricey, but they will give you a lift over
to the terminal to get a Hertz or Avis.
Another good alternative is TRK (Truckee) - Cheaper gas and an on-field Hertz local
edition which is pretty reasonable and FAST. TRK is 40 miles out from RNO,
but a nice drive and a good airport.
I am building at Incline Village on Lake Tahoe
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=189860#189860
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
Mine will stay up all week with no leakage, but good point. If you
have any super critical maintenance that would cause the plane
settling slowly to make major pains, you may want to attach a locking
collar or build a stop-shaft that would prevent the plane from going
down any further than a certain point.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Cox wrote:
> Just as a caveat. Some but not all of the Harbor Freight units have a
> history of a slow bleed of pressure. Some places prefer a locking
> method to insure the aircraft does not come down without intention.
>
>
>
> For the quick, down and dirty on a RV-10 budget, they often work fine.
>
>
>
> On a plastic plane budget, with retract. stories could be told.
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
John Cox wrote:
>
> Just as a caveat. Some but not all of the Harbor Freight units have a
> history of a slow bleed of pressure.
>
This is true. If you get one that bleeds down, just take it back. If
you've had it a long time and it starts to bleed down, unscrew the
shutoff part, and remove the ball so you can inspect the seat. I've
found metal shavings pressed into the seat ..... probably because I was
trying to stop the bleed down by really torquing down that screw. I've
also found seats that looked like a chip was missing ..... like a drill
bit stopped and pulled a chip free instead of shaving it off. Fixed
that one with a drill bit and polished with valve grinding compound.
It's a whole lot easier to return the jack!!!
Linn
> Some places prefer a locking method to insure the aircraft does not
> come down without intention.
>
>
>
> For the quick, down and dirty on a RV-10 budget, they often work fine.
>
>
>
> On a plastic plane budget, with retract. stories could be told.
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *linn Walters
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 25, 2008 10:53 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Quick Question
>
>
>
> Buy the Harbor Freight tall bottle jacks and make your own
> 'stabilizer' out of a foot square piece of steel. Flatten the ends of
> suitable lengths of 1/2" EMT and use pieces of angle iron on the base
> corners and at the upper end ..... large hose clamp to hold the upper
> end or make a huge ''washer" to attach the angles to. Be sure to
> label "experimental"!!! ;-)
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> Where are you looking to 'get' these from?
>
> I've been surfing for them a bit and can't seem to find what I think I'm
> looking for.
>
> I'm thinking about a tripod type stand looking thing with a bottle jack in the
> middle - or some reasonable facsimile thereof.....
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> From: gary <speckter@comcast.net> <mailto:speckter@comcast.net>
>
> Sent: Jun 25, 2008 8:49 AM
>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Quick Question
>
>
>
> I went to measure mine and discovered that one wing is an inch lower than
>
> the other. I had not noticed it before but if you make your jack 28" you
>
> will have 1" clearance to the ring (29" on one side 30" on the other)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> 40274 Flying.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
>
> SSA)
>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 9:03 PM
>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Quick Question
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Can somebody get me the measurement from the wing tie-down points to the
>
> floor? I've had it on my "to do" list to get a set of wing jacks but am
out
>
> of town at the moment and would like to get them ordered.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> N442PM (flying)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> * *
> * *
> * *
> ~,gM4Gqz.'8E]t.+-fZ+`axr^jzZ(j|n)b'!j'+ry'C
> { ,x(ZP!jrr
> 'ojj+E]t.+-i0fr(Z(W]
hM $NEC&z
> j(lVj^Yikx&ikx&
> B{ky.+jY^.+-i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*''k{w/tml
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Off topic - Need a qucik 'fix'??? |
Very cool, just wish I could control the pitch...
Rick Sked
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron McGANN" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 3:42:27 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Off topic - Need a qucik 'fix'???
So you're staring at the monitor and craving an aviation fix???
http://electricoyster.com/esp3d/
cheers,
Ron
187 still finishing
do not archive
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Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Quick Question |
I don't know. Folks will spend $600+ for a pneumatic squeezer, but don't
want to spend ~360 for a good pair of jacks. Aircraft GSE makes some
really nice ones for about the same as Jack House and others.
http://www.aircraft-gse.com/lw-3.html
If you only need one for tire changing, you can do that too, for under $200.
I don't want a 1600lb plane falling on me from a homemade jack.
YMMV, BWTFDIK
linn Walters wrote:
> Buy the Harbor Freight tall bottle jacks and make your own
> 'stabilizer' out of a foot square piece of steel. Flatten the ends of
> suitable lengths of 1/2" EMT and use pieces of angle iron on the base
> corners and at the upper end ..... large hose clamp to hold the upper
> end or make a huge ''washer" to attach the angles to. Be sure to
> label "experimental"!!! ;-)
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>
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