RV10-List Digest Archive

Sat 07/05/08


Total Messages Posted: 6



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:45 AM - Re: Sec 29 follow-up question (egohr1)
     2. 09:33 AM - Re: Re: Sec 29 follow-up question (Ben Westfall)
     3. 11:53 AM - Re: Rear Wing Spar question (Bob Leffler)
     4. 05:56 PM - Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals (Deems Davis)
     5. 07:08 PM - Re: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008 (John Testement)
     6. 07:08 PM - Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals (John Cox)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:45:53 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Sec 29 follow-up question
    From: "egohr1" <EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu>
    These holes are used to clamp the door halves together while they cure. I never found a spot in the plans were it said to rivet them, but I filled the holes after the doors where completed. Eric Gohr In the maze of wires. -------- eric gohr EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191308#191308


    Message 2


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    Time: 09:33:24 AM PST US
    From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
    Subject: Re: Sec 29 follow-up question
    Thanks guys, makes sense. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of egohr1 Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 5:42 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Sec 29 follow-up question <EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu> These holes are used to clamp the door halves together while they cure. I never found a spot in the plans were it said to rivet them, but I filled the holes after the doors where completed. Eric Gohr In the maze of wires. -------- eric gohr EGOHR86@alumni.carnegiemellon.edu Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191308#191308


    Message 3


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    Time: 11:53:41 AM PST US
    From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
    Subject: Rear Wing Spar question
    Thanks to Carl, Fred, and Pascal for getting me by my brain fart this weekend. Using the pneumatic squeezer and dimpling worked just fine. Thanks, Bob Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams, M.D. Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:16 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Wing Spar question <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com> Bob; It's been about year and half and I looked over that section again. I think I did get out my big squeezer and dimpled that line on top the 1007 a. As I remember, the skins would have fit better if they were countersinked, as long as you had adequate metal there. My wings are out at the hanger so I couldn't look at them. Maybe someone else has some more recent recollections. Dr Fred. wiring up center console. Bob Leffler wrote: > > On page 15-4 on the Wing manual. It clearly calls to machine counter > sink the top of the rear spar (w-1007a) on the three areas with the > three (w-1007d/e) spar doublers. It also specifically calls to dimple > the 26 inboard places on the top and bottom flange on the rear spar. > > This isn't making sense to me. Perhaps I'm being a little dense (no > jokes please) this holiday weekend. > > The spar is too think to dimple, so I'm surprised that the > instructions don't specifically call for machine countersinking. I > suspect this is the first area that I've run into where the common > instructions are omitted, since it doesn't make any mention of > countersinking the other top and bottom holes that mate with the wing > skins. > > I assuming that machine countersinking the top and bottom flange on > the rear spar is the appropriate action. I guess I'm probably thinking > too hard to understand why they want these 26 holes dimpled instead of > countersinking. > > I'm curious to see what others have done. > > Thanks, > > Bob > > Do not archive > > * > > > *


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:56:36 PM PST US
    From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
    OK, I'll bite, what is it about the Grove brake cyls that make them an upgrade? (I can't stand knowing there's a mod/upgrade I haven't considered ) The whole shebang took 12 hours. of that 1 1/2 was removing center console and associated electronics. It took another 1 1/2 hours to remove the old rudder pedals. fitting the tunnel cover and cutting the slots (took me 3 times) and re routing the Scat tubes took 3 hours. Installing the new pedal assembly and connecting the rudder cables took 2 hours. Remounting the brake cylinders took 4 hours I figure this should be about worst case: a. I'm slow b. It was/is 110-112 degrees c. my panel is 2 inches lower than stock further restricting access d. I'm fat (but working on it) e. I'm old (working on it as well but haven't made much progress) If these were being installed during the build vs a retrofit, without the instrument panel or upper fwd fuse in place, it should take no more than 2-3 hours total. Given that they come fully assembled, that would actually be a time savings over the stock pedals. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ John Cox wrote: > > Your pictures look like the Matco's bolted right up. That would mean my > upgrade to Groves should fit fine. >


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:08:37 PM PST US
    From: "John Testement" <jwt@roadmapscoaching.com>
    Subject: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008
    Congratulations Roger. It must be a real thrill! John Testement jwt@roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA Painting and final assembly do not archive _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2008 9:27 AM Subject: RV10-List: N291RV flies on July 1, 2008 N291RV had its first, second and third flights today! WOW! Great plane! What a beast! Handles almost hands free. At hi cruise, it needs a little left rudder to center the ball. Total time 1.75 hours! All went well with only a few minor problems to work through. Idle EGT on #6 cylinder was high and was found to be an out-of-round intake pipe causing an air intake leak Late in first flight, the #2 CHT suddenly went high and was later traced to the CHT probe. The plan is to continue tomorrow. Roger Standley Builder Flyer #40291


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:08:43 PM PST US
    Subject: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
    From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    The Groves had/have improved machining, HD O-rings and could sustain higher pressure creation. They might have had a slightly larger capacity. They were black anodized - not gold (Kool). They remain the choice of Lancair builders who are upgrading performance(but that is not enough after Matco's are installed). They have a Helper spring on the outside of the shaft to assist to a Return to No Brake mode. I have suggested to Paul that a 1/8 Elbow fitting added at the firewall would assist Retro Builders to redirect Scat tubing away from his fulcrum arms. He is considering that. The DHI lines are a Big Deal. There have been lots of upgrades from Nylaflow lines. Lancairs come across the fence 50% faster than a VANS (in flare) and more than 60% heavier (with WOW). That all works into the math calculation for rotor mass, pad surface area and pressure of H-5606. When the brakes get mushy and the field is short, the operators look to improved performance. Lancairs need hard surface and 4,000+. Tim wanted Dirt or Grass and 2500 feet. When there is a cliff, trees or a dogleg, the improved braking becomes a bigger deal than just HP. Tim went with dual calipers and 75% more rotor mass (I think 0.435" rather than 0.250"). I have a firm back east, that grooves my rotors on the BMWs. The groove is set to minimum caliper width so it is also an indicator line for rotor replacement. It allows outgassing from the heated pads to dissipate and return to conversion of energy mass into friction and heat. It is the heat dissipation that is the science. Hoyt Fleming put NACAs ducts on the side of his wheel pants and cooling ducts internally like on NASCAR vehicles to direct the flow over the rotors. I told John Jessen it is the heat buildup that caused NASCAR to go to a cool down lap to avoid warping of the rotors from uneven cooling. Seems the pads were retaining heat and contributing to rotor warp. It is much like the respect pilots should have for turbo oil and a cooling cycle before shutdown. Short taxis should be avoided on hot days. Land long, taxi back, save rotors and $$$. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 5:54 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals OK, I'll bite, what is it about the Grove brake cyls that make them an upgrade? (I can't stand knowing there's a mod/upgrade I haven't considered ) The whole shebang took 12 hours. of that 1 1/2 was removing center console and associated electronics. It took another 1 1/2 hours to remove the old rudder pedals. fitting the tunnel cover and cutting the slots (took me 3 times) and re routing the Scat tubes took 3 hours. Installing the new pedal assembly and connecting the rudder cables took 2 hours. Remounting the brake cylinders took 4 hours I figure this should be about worst case: a. I'm slow b. It was/is 110-112 degrees c. my panel is 2 inches lower than stock further restricting access d. I'm fat (but working on it) e. I'm old (working on it as well but haven't made much progress) If these were being installed during the build vs a retrofit, without the instrument panel or upper fwd fuse in place, it should take no more than 2-3 hours total. Given that they come fully assembled, that would actually be a time savings over the stock pedals. Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ John Cox wrote: > > Your pictures look like the Matco's bolted right up. That would mean my > upgrade to Groves should fit fine. >




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