Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:26 AM - Re: Home grown overhead console (Deems Davis)
2. 06:49 AM - Re: Home grown overhead console (gary)
3. 07:16 AM - Paint on plexi? (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
4. 07:16 AM - Cowl pins (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
5. 07:44 AM - Re: Cowl pins (Rene Felker)
6. 08:05 AM - Re: Cowl pins (Marcus Cooper)
7. 08:05 AM - Re: Paint on plexi? (Marcus Cooper)
8. 08:07 AM - Re: Home grown overhead console (Marcus Cooper)
9. 08:20 AM - Re: Paint on plexi? (gary)
10. 08:36 AM - Re: Home grown overhead console (Deems Davis)
11. 08:49 AM - Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals (John Cumins)
12. 09:26 AM - Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals (Deems Davis)
13. 11:37 AM - Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH (Tim Olson)
14. 12:10 PM - Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH (Dave Saylor)
15. 12:12 PM - Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH (Tim Olson)
16. 12:12 PM - Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH (John Cox)
17. 12:38 PM - Re: Cowl pins (William Curtis)
18. 12:38 PM - Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH (orchidman)
19. 12:39 PM - Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH (John Cox)
20. 12:56 PM - Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH (Tim Olson)
21. 12:59 PM - Re: Home grown overhead console (Paul Grimstad)
22. 01:05 PM - Re: Paint on plexi? (greghale)
23. 01:07 PM - Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals (Paul Grimstad)
24. 03:46 PM - Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum (John Cumins)
25. 03:50 PM - primer segestions (John Cumins)
26. 04:03 PM - Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum (Deems Davis)
27. 04:08 PM - Re: primer segestions (Kelly McMullen)
28. 04:13 PM - Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum (Bob Kaufmann)
29. 04:36 PM - Re: primer suggestions (Carl Froehlich)
30. 04:50 PM - Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum (Rick Sked)
31. 05:05 PM - Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
32. 05:05 PM - Re: primer suggestions (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
33. 05:07 PM - Re: primer segestions (Robert Wright)
34. 05:11 PM - Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum (pascal)
35. 05:21 PM - Re: primer segestions (pascal)
36. 05:24 PM - Re: primer segestions (Dj Merrill)
37. 05:36 PM - Re: primer segestions (Paul Grimstad)
38. 06:04 PM - Re: primer segestions (Rick Sked)
39. 06:06 PM - Re: primer suggestions (pascal)
40. 06:10 PM - Re: Home grown overhead console (Chris)
41. 06:11 PM - Re: Home grown overhead console (Chris)
42. 07:13 PM - Re: primer segestions (Tim Olson)
43. 07:13 PM - Re: Cowl pins (Carl Froehlich)
44. 07:46 PM - Re: Cowl pins (Sam Marlow)
45. 08:07 PM - valve stem (John Ackerman)
46. 08:23 PM - Re: valve stem (Jesse Saint)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Home grown overhead console |
Congratulations Chris! while it's not the tidiest environment to work
in, fiberglass can be used for any number of applications, your project
was an ambitious one, but it looks like it turned out quite well,
Deems Davis
Message 2
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| Subject: | Home grown overhead console |
Spoken like a true fiberglass convert
Gary Specketer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
Congratulations Chris! while it's not the tidiest environment to work
in, fiberglass can be used for any number of applications, your project
was an ambitious one, but it looks like it turned out quite well,
Deems Davis
Message 3
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I was planning on having the exterior paint lap over the plexiglass on
the windows to hide the sins on the inside of the glass. Recently, a
local "expert" implied that paint on plexiglass was a no-go. What's the
straight dope?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, endless minutiate
Message 4
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Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that Van's
has ?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, still . . .
Message 5
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I used the tabbed ones from Vans.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowl pins
Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that Van's has
?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, still . . .
Message 6
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Tabbed, much easier on the fingers if the pin is a little tight, and looks a
lot better as well.
Marcus
40286
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 9:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cowl pins
Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that Van's has
?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, still . . .
Message 7
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My paint goes on to the plexi and I don't think I've seen a RV-10 yet that
doesn't have it that way (however, I've been wrong before in my
observations). The paint is sticking great, however I am having issues
where the plexi/cabin meet with cracks in the paint.
Marcus
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 9:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint on plexi?
I was planning on having the exterior paint lap over the plexiglass on the
windows to hide the sins on the inside of the glass. Recently, a local
"expert" implied that paint on plexiglass was a no-go. What's the straight
dope?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, endless minutiate
Message 8
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| Subject: | Home grown overhead console |
Chris,
Well done! It looks great and is much less obtrusive then all the other
options I've seen. I've done a lot of fiberglass work (built a Q2 as my
first project) but am not sure I could pull off what you did so well.
Marcus
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 9:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
Thought I would share some photos of my recently completed overhead console.
I think it came out pretty good. I am still finishing it up and need to add
nut plates to mount the vents, also need to add access plates etc. I used
blue foam as a mold. I shaped the foam and then taped it on the top. I used
tape around the edges to protect the cabin top. The fillet was done with
spackling compound. I sanded the foam and spackling smooth and then covered
with mold release wax. Yes it took some time but it was not difficult to do.
So... it can be done without buying after market if desired - no special
skills.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
Message 9
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I have painted numerous windows on several aircraft with no problems except
that on the upper part of the windscreen in rain it will peal back some if
you are above 150 knots. I solve that with the clear urethane tape. Normal
prep by sanding and alcohol cleaning advised. Logic tells you though not to
flood the plexi with paint as the excess solvent is problematic. I spray a
thin coat on first and let that dry as a barrier then paint normally.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 9:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint on plexi?
I was planning on having the exterior paint lap over the plexiglass on the
windows to hide the sins on the inside of the glass. Recently, a local
"expert" implied that paint on plexiglass was a no-go. What's the straight
dope?
Tim Dawson-Townsend
40025, endless minutiate
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Home grown overhead console |
Actually it's the other way around, after a Long-EZ and a Lancair 320, I
wanted something 'cleaner' to work on, something where you didn't have
to wait on 'cure' times' to govern work schedules, I thought an RV would
be the ticket, ............. but Van's 'tricked me' !!!!!!! =-O
Deems
gary wrote:
>
> Spoken like a true fiberglass convert
>
> Gary Specketer
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
>
>
> Congratulations Chris! while it's not the tidiest environment to work
> in, fiberglass can be used for any number of applications, your project
> was an ambitious one, but it looks like it turned out quite well,
>
> Deems Davis
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
Looks like I want a set when I get to that part in the build process. I am
only on page 6-3 of the Vertical Stab but loving every minute of it.
John G. Cumins
40864 Emp build
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
Earlier this week Paul Grimstad posted a message along with a picture of
his newly developed rudder pedals for the RV-10. The following day a
package arrived at the Davis house hold with production model #1. I saw
Pauls prototype over a year ago at a dinner at his Home in Oregon, and
persuaded him, that if he ever decided to produce them for others to
make me his 1st customer. True to his word Paul called and said 'they're
ready' and my check was in the mail. I finished with the installation
yesterday, you can read about it on my website.
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-77.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
I've created a picture album as well:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Control%20Approach%20Rudder-Brake%20Pedals/index.
html
Paul has done an EXCEPTIONAL job developing these, all of the pieces are
CAD designed, The metal parts are all precision machined, or laser cut.
the welding is done in jigs, the fit is perfect! This is the last
modification I plan on making (I promise !) I've patiently waited while
Paul's perfected these, but it's been well worth it.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
PS. I've got no financial interest in this, I do count myself as a
friend of Pauls' and want this to be a sucess for him.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
Install them initially during your build and it will be a breeze. You'll
love them.
Deems
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Looks like I want a set when I get to that part in the build process. I am
> only on page 6-3 of the Vertical Stab but loving every minute of it.
>
>
> John G. Cumins
> 40864 Emp build
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:55 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
>
>
> Earlier this week Paul Grimstad posted a message along with a picture of
> his newly developed rudder pedals for the RV-10. The following day a
> package arrived at the Davis house hold with production model #1. I saw
> Pauls prototype over a year ago at a dinner at his Home in Oregon, and
> persuaded him, that if he ever decided to produce them for others to
> make me his 1st customer. True to his word Paul called and said 'they're
> ready' and my check was in the mail. I finished with the installation
> yesterday, you can read about it on my website.
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-77.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
>
> I've created a picture album as well:
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Control%20Approach%20Rudder-Brake%20Pedals/index.
> html
>
>
> Paul has done an EXCEPTIONAL job developing these, all of the pieces are
> CAD designed, The metal parts are all precision machined, or laser cut.
> the welding is done in jigs, the fit is perfect! This is the last
> modification I plan on making (I promise !) I've patiently waited while
> Paul's perfected these, but it's been well worth it.
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> PS. I've got no financial interest in this, I do count myself as a
> friend of Pauls' and want this to be a sucess for him.
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH |
Last night I got an email from Jeff Point about parking this
year at OSH, for RV-10's that fly in. He says that this year
parking is in the same basic place as last year....just West
of Van's tent, in the RV lot. This year they're making 2
rows with a wide hole in the fence, instead of one long row
like last year. The rows are tight, purposely, to maximize
capacity so we all don't run out of the ability to park there.
This year they're looking for volunteers to help out with
parking, to keep us all safe. In particular, he'd like to
find people who have interest in helping wing-walk and park
RV-10's that show up. The job would entail hanging out around
the RV-10 parking area (That's the tough part, huh? :) ) and
when 10's come in, help out by walking along the wingtips to
verify that they aren't going to smack some other plane.
Then once the planes park, you have the awful task of
saying "Welcome to Oshkosh" and see if the people need
anything and give them a couple tips if they do, so they can
be comfortable and be on their way.
It pays very well for a volunteer job....you get to meet
lots of RV-10 builders and ask them all of your questions.
You needn't fear the task, as there are other, more experienced
parking crew personnel who will be taking some of the work,
but this would ensure safe parking, and free them up to handle
all the other RV's showing up.
The times they REALLY need help are Sunday (day before
show opening) from about 10AM to about 6PM, and Monday
(opening day) from about 8AM until the airshow at about 3PM.
It would be nice to have two people at all times (one for each
wingtip!) and the shifts could be staggered so you don't have
to work the full day.
Anybody who is interested in helping out can contact
Jeff by email at jpoint (at) mindspring.com.
I'm hoping that from our great pool of RV-10 builders, we can
get enough people to fill the needs.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH |
I think airplane parking is one of the funnest jobs at OSH. The first time
I went, someone asked my wife and I to help. They gave us orange vests and
scooters and said go park planes.
I think all volunteers get lunch. Either way, it's a really fun job and
it's pretty easy. Even if you can only help for an hour or two, I've found
that volunteering at OSH makes the whole experience better for everyone
involved. Makes you feel more like it's your show when you get involved.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 11:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH
Last night I got an email from Jeff Point about parking this year at OSH,
for RV-10's that fly in. He says that this year parking is in the same
basic place as last year....just West of Van's tent, in the RV lot. This
year they're making 2 rows with a wide hole in the fence, instead of one
long row like last year. The rows are tight, purposely, to maximize
capacity so we all don't run out of the ability to park there.
This year they're looking for volunteers to help out with parking, to keep
us all safe. In particular, he'd like to find people who have interest in
helping wing-walk and park RV-10's that show up. The job would entail
hanging out around the RV-10 parking area (That's the tough part, huh? :) )
and when 10's come in, help out by walking along the wingtips to verify that
they aren't going to smack some other plane.
Then once the planes park, you have the awful task of saying "Welcome to
Oshkosh" and see if the people need anything and give them a couple tips if
they do, so they can be comfortable and be on their way.
It pays very well for a volunteer job....you get to meet lots of RV-10
builders and ask them all of your questions.
You needn't fear the task, as there are other, more experienced parking crew
personnel who will be taking some of the work, but this would ensure safe
parking, and free them up to handle all the other RV's showing up.
The times they REALLY need help are Sunday (day before show opening) from
about 10AM to about 6PM, and Monday (opening day) from about 8AM until the
airshow at about 3PM.
It would be nice to have two people at all times (one for each
wingtip!) and the shifts could be staggered so you don't have to work the
full day.
Anybody who is interested in helping out can contact Jeff by email at jpoint
(at) mindspring.com.
I'm hoping that from our great pool of RV-10 builders, we can get enough
people to fill the needs.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH |
As it turns out, Jeff asked if I could keep the signup list
for timeslots, and just give it to him there. He's a busy
dude. So, please, help, and just let me know if/when you
can. Bring your families, friends, and even some enemies
if you have to. I'll try to keep track and put together
a timeslot chart soon and get it posted. Probably not
today though.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Last night I got an email from Jeff Point about parking this
> year at OSH, for RV-10's that fly in. He says that this year
> parking is in the same basic place as last year....just West
> of Van's tent, in the RV lot. This year they're making 2
> rows with a wide hole in the fence, instead of one long row
> like last year. The rows are tight, purposely, to maximize
> capacity so we all don't run out of the ability to park there.
>
> This year they're looking for volunteers to help out with
> parking, to keep us all safe. In particular, he'd like to
> find people who have interest in helping wing-walk and park
> RV-10's that show up. The job would entail hanging out around
> the RV-10 parking area (That's the tough part, huh? :) ) and
> when 10's come in, help out by walking along the wingtips to
> verify that they aren't going to smack some other plane.
> Then once the planes park, you have the awful task of
> saying "Welcome to Oshkosh" and see if the people need
> anything and give them a couple tips if they do, so they can
> be comfortable and be on their way.
>
> It pays very well for a volunteer job....you get to meet
> lots of RV-10 builders and ask them all of your questions.
>
> You needn't fear the task, as there are other, more experienced
> parking crew personnel who will be taking some of the work,
> but this would ensure safe parking, and free them up to handle
> all the other RV's showing up.
>
> The times they REALLY need help are Sunday (day before
> show opening) from about 10AM to about 6PM, and Monday
> (opening day) from about 8AM until the airshow at about 3PM.
> It would be nice to have two people at all times (one for each
> wingtip!) and the shifts could be staggered so you don't have
> to work the full day.
>
> Anybody who is interested in helping out can contact
> Jeff by email at jpoint (at) mindspring.com.
>
> I'm hoping that from our great pool of RV-10 builders, we can
> get enough people to fill the needs.
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH |
I'm staging the Nanchang Warbirds out of West Bend until Sunday noon.
Will contact Jeff to assist on the ground at OSH. Most of my experience
is in twin engine turbo-prop parking but it is a great way to see
friends. I will bring ear protection for any other taker's helping to
consolidate RV-10 parking in the same area.
Counting down to OSH '08
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 11:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH
Last night I got an email from Jeff Point about parking this
year at OSH, for RV-10's that fly in. He says that this year
parking is in the same basic place as last year....just West
of Van's tent, in the RV lot. This year they're making 2
rows with a wide hole in the fence, instead of one long row
like last year. The rows are tight, purposely, to maximize
capacity so we all don't run out of the ability to park there.
This year they're looking for volunteers to help out with
parking, to keep us all safe. In particular, he'd like to
find people who have interest in helping wing-walk and park
RV-10's that show up. The job would entail hanging out around
the RV-10 parking area (That's the tough part, huh? :) ) and
when 10's come in, help out by walking along the wingtips to
verify that they aren't going to smack some other plane.
Then once the planes park, you have the awful task of
saying "Welcome to Oshkosh" and see if the people need
anything and give them a couple tips if they do, so they can
be comfortable and be on their way.
It pays very well for a volunteer job....you get to meet
lots of RV-10 builders and ask them all of your questions.
You needn't fear the task, as there are other, more experienced
parking crew personnel who will be taking some of the work,
but this would ensure safe parking, and free them up to handle
all the other RV's showing up.
The times they REALLY need help are Sunday (day before
show opening) from about 10AM to about 6PM, and Monday
(opening day) from about 8AM until the airshow at about 3PM.
It would be nice to have two people at all times (one for each
wingtip!) and the shifts could be staggered so you don't have
to work the full day.
Anybody who is interested in helping out can contact
Jeff by email at jpoint (at) mindspring.com.
I'm hoping that from our great pool of RV-10 builders, we can
get enough people to fill the needs.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 17
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Here are some additional ideas I saw at OSH last year. I need to get a picture
of an RV with the Van's ""tabbed" pin.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/HingePin/index.html
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To: <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
>
> I used the tabbed ones from Vans.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:13 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cowl pins
>
>
>
> Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that Van's has
> ?
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> 40025, still . . .
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH |
Tim Olson wrote:
> As it turns out, Jeff asked if I could keep the signup list
> for timeslots, and just give it to him there. He's a busy
> dude. So, please, help, and just let me know if/when you
> can. Bring your families, friends, and even some enemies
> if you have to. I'll try to keep track and put together
> a timeslot chart soon and get it posted. Probably not
> today though.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
Sounds like a Saturday evening project at RV-10 HQ. :D
Filling in the schedule that is [Mr. Green]
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191636#191636
Message 19
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| Subject: | Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH |
Already responded to Jeff before receiving this post. Will contact you
offline.
JC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH
As it turns out, Jeff asked if I could keep the signup list
for timeslots, and just give it to him there. He's a busy
dude. So, please, help, and just let me know if/when you
can. Bring your families, friends, and even some enemies
if you have to. I'll try to keep track and put together
a timeslot chart soon and get it posted. Probably not
today though.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Last night I got an email from Jeff Point about parking this
> year at OSH, for RV-10's that fly in. He says that this year
> parking is in the same basic place as last year....just West
> of Van's tent, in the RV lot. This year they're making 2
> rows with a wide hole in the fence, instead of one long row
> like last year. The rows are tight, purposely, to maximize
> capacity so we all don't run out of the ability to park there.
>
> This year they're looking for volunteers to help out with
> parking, to keep us all safe. In particular, he'd like to
> find people who have interest in helping wing-walk and park
> RV-10's that show up. The job would entail hanging out around
> the RV-10 parking area (That's the tough part, huh? :) ) and
> when 10's come in, help out by walking along the wingtips to
> verify that they aren't going to smack some other plane.
> Then once the planes park, you have the awful task of
> saying "Welcome to Oshkosh" and see if the people need
> anything and give them a couple tips if they do, so they can
> be comfortable and be on their way.
>
> It pays very well for a volunteer job....you get to meet
> lots of RV-10 builders and ask them all of your questions.
>
> You needn't fear the task, as there are other, more experienced
> parking crew personnel who will be taking some of the work,
> but this would ensure safe parking, and free them up to handle
> all the other RV's showing up.
>
> The times they REALLY need help are Sunday (day before
> show opening) from about 10AM to about 6PM, and Monday
> (opening day) from about 8AM until the airshow at about 3PM.
> It would be nice to have two people at all times (one for each
> wingtip!) and the shifts could be staggered so you don't have
> to work the full day.
>
> Anybody who is interested in helping out can contact
> Jeff by email at jpoint (at) mindspring.com.
>
> I'm hoping that from our great pool of RV-10 builders, we can
> get enough people to fill the needs.
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH |
Very true...you seem to always hear that from Volunteers, even at
our hospital...they always get a lot out of it.
I let work take a back seat again and I quick threw up a signup
sheet...just shoot me your timeslot if you wish. Jeff only asked
about Sunday and Monday, but I'm sure he'd love help on the other
days too if you were interested....usually during the peak arrivals
and departures.
http://www.myrv10.com/osh/RV10parking.html
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> I think airplane parking is one of the funnest jobs at OSH. The first time
> I went, someone asked my wife and I to help. They gave us orange vests and
> scooters and said go park planes.
>
> I think all volunteers get lunch. Either way, it's a really fun job and
> it's pretty easy. Even if you can only help for an hour or two, I've found
> that volunteering at OSH makes the whole experience better for everyone
> involved. Makes you feel more like it's your show when you get involved.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA
> 831-722-9141
> 831-750-0284 CL
> www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 11:31 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Volunteering and RV-10 Parking at OSH
>
>
> Last night I got an email from Jeff Point about parking this year at OSH,
> for RV-10's that fly in. He says that this year parking is in the same
> basic place as last year....just West of Van's tent, in the RV lot. This
> year they're making 2 rows with a wide hole in the fence, instead of one
> long row like last year. The rows are tight, purposely, to maximize
> capacity so we all don't run out of the ability to park there.
>
> This year they're looking for volunteers to help out with parking, to keep
> us all safe. In particular, he'd like to find people who have interest in
> helping wing-walk and park RV-10's that show up. The job would entail
> hanging out around the RV-10 parking area (That's the tough part, huh? :) )
> and when 10's come in, help out by walking along the wingtips to verify that
> they aren't going to smack some other plane.
> Then once the planes park, you have the awful task of saying "Welcome to
> Oshkosh" and see if the people need anything and give them a couple tips if
> they do, so they can be comfortable and be on their way.
>
> It pays very well for a volunteer job....you get to meet lots of RV-10
> builders and ask them all of your questions.
>
> You needn't fear the task, as there are other, more experienced parking crew
> personnel who will be taking some of the work, but this would ensure safe
> parking, and free them up to handle all the other RV's showing up.
>
> The times they REALLY need help are Sunday (day before show opening) from
> about 10AM to about 6PM, and Monday (opening day) from about 8AM until the
> airshow at about 3PM.
> It would be nice to have two people at all times (one for each
> wingtip!) and the shifts could be staggered so you don't have to work the
> full day.
>
> Anybody who is interested in helping out can contact Jeff by email at jpoint
> (at) mindspring.com.
>
> I'm hoping that from our great pool of RV-10 builders, we can get enough
> people to fill the needs.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Home grown overhead console |
Chris,
Good job on the overhead.
You mentioned nut plates, and I wanted to tell you about these:
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/Categories.aspx?Category=07adfbee-0ad0-45
93-a52e-30065aedb553
Just drill your hole in the f/g part and epoxy these in. You pull them
into the drilled hole with the colored rubber bungy and when set-up you
just pull the bungy out and your done.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450 rudder pedals
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 7:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
Thought I would share some photos of my recently completed overhead
console. I think it came out pretty good. I am still finishing it up
and need to add nut plates to mount the vents, also need to add access
plates etc. I used blue foam as a mold. I shaped the foam and then
taped it on the top. I used tape around the edges to protect the cabin
top. The fillet was done with spackling compound. I sanded the foam
and spackling smooth and then covered with mold release wax. Yes it took
some time but it was not difficult to do.
So... it can be done without buying after market if desired - no
special skills.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Paint on plexi? |
I used PPG's black epoxy primer on the inside of my RV8 windshield. It is also
on the canopy hiding the front support bow. The RV8 is now 8 years old and 800+
hours. The epoxy has not peeled off or crack the windshield. I plan on doing
the same thing on my RV10.
--------
Greg Hale rv8/rv10
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=191645#191645
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Control Approach - Rudder pedals |
John
Thanks for your approval. I am working on ordering materials for a quanity
build now.
I'm with you on loving every minute of building this airplane, all be it one
handed for the time being.
Paul Grimstad
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins@jcis.net>
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
>
> Looks like I want a set when I get to that part in the build process. I
> am
> only on page 6-3 of the Vertical Stab but loving every minute of it.
>
>
> John G. Cumins
> 40864 Emp build
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 6:55 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Control Approach - Rudder pedals
>
>
> Earlier this week Paul Grimstad posted a message along with a picture of
> his newly developed rudder pedals for the RV-10. The following day a
> package arrived at the Davis house hold with production model #1. I saw
> Pauls prototype over a year ago at a dinner at his Home in Oregon, and
> persuaded him, that if he ever decided to produce them for others to
> make me his 1st customer. True to his word Paul called and said 'they're
> ready' and my check was in the mail. I finished with the installation
> yesterday, you can read about it on my website.
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-77.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
> http://deemsrv10.com/Home-78.htm
>
> I've created a picture album as well:
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Control%20Approach%20Rudder-Brake%20Pedals/index.
> html
>
>
> Paul has done an EXCEPTIONAL job developing these, all of the pieces are
> CAD designed, The metal parts are all precision machined, or laser cut.
> the welding is done in jigs, the fit is perfect! This is the last
> modification I plan on making (I promise !) I've patiently waited while
> Paul's perfected these, but it's been well worth it.
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> PS. I've got no financial interest in this, I do count myself as a
> friend of Pauls' and want this to be a sucess for him.
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
Well
Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over the
rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work on it and
still set rivets.
What have most of you builders done to do this.
Thanks
John
40864 Emp heaven
Message 25
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| Subject: | primer segestions |
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not want
to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple primer
that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protection. I
am in northern California so no real wet environment at all. Plus I have a
have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
A soldering iron with the tip polished/rounded a bit, so it doesn't
scar the alclad. Although you should be aware some builders have
reported that after some prolonged time in storage, they removed the
plastic and found corrosion ?????. I know that If the blue film gets
exposed to a heat source (direct sunlight e.g.) it will develop
wrinkles, and these areas are opportunities for moisture to collect. I
did the soldering iron thing, myself, and didn't find any corrosion
(but I live in Arizona) However, now as I'm ready for paint, I question
whether the hours spent doing it were worth while. (It did make the
parts 'easier to look at' during the work steps and storage ;-) )
Deems
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Well
>
>
>
> Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over
> the rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work
> on it and still set rivets.
>
>
>
> What have most of you builders done to do this.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 40864 Emp heaven
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
NAPA #7220 Self Etching Primer (listed at NAPA in their
Martin Senour catalog).
If rattle can primer satisfies you. Not as robust as the 2 part
epoxies. Depends on exposure in your area and how long you intend to
worry about the condition of the plane. I'll be very lucky if I get to
fly mine 20 years.
On Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at 3:46 PM, John Cumins <jcumins@jcis.net> wrote:
> I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not want
> to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple primer
> that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protection. I
> am in northern California so no real wet environment at all. Plus I have a
> have to park it in.
>
>
> What would you builders recommend.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> John
>
>
> 40864
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
John
What I did was start a roll and kept building on it. It originally was
small but now I have 3 that are over 6 inches in diameter and about 16
inches long. Just start the plastic on the roll and roll it off.
Bob K
Wiring panel and massive headache
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum
Well
Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over the
rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work on it and
still set rivets.
What have most of you builders done to do this.
Thanks
John
40864 Emp heaven
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | primer suggestions |
PPG DP-40LF two part self etching epoxy primer. Use PPG DX533 aluminum
cleaner with red Scotchbrite pads to prep the aluminum. Rinse with a lot of
water, let dry then prime.
Very tough, scratch and solvent resistant product. I use the same primer
with PPG concept base coat clear coat for the finish paint. PPG concept is
very forgiving to the amateur painter working in a makeshift paint booth.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (425 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not want
to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple primer
that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protection. I
am in northern California so no real wet environment at all. Plus I have a
have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
I think NOT worthwhile...looks cool though, Building Buddy, hangar mate Bob K.
posted a good way to remove the plastic...It works great, just start yourself
out with a roll of the material and use the roll to remove the other pieces, building
yourself an BIGGER roll, the bigger the roll the easier it comes off...or
do what I did last weekend watching (read babysiting) two young fellas about
8 and 9 years old. I turned them loose on the bottom of my fuselage and they
stripped off all the neat little strips I still had...they said it was more
fun than bubble wrap...just were upset it didn't make noise...so I tossed firecrackers
at them while thay did it :) You like Apples??? how ya like them Apples!!!
Ingrates!! :) :)
Rick s.
40185
Making bail for illegal fireworks display
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Monday, July 7, 2008 3:59:31 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum
A soldering iron with the tip polished/rounded a bit, so it doesn't
scar the alclad. Although you should be aware some builders have
reported that after some prolonged time in storage, they removed the
plastic and found corrosion ?????. I know that If the blue film gets
exposed to a heat source (direct sunlight e.g.) it will develop
wrinkles, and these areas are opportunities for moisture to collect. I
did the soldering iron thing, myself, and didn't find any corrosion
(but I live in Arizona) However, now as I'm ready for paint, I question
whether the hours spent doing it were worth while. (It did make the
parts 'easier to look at' during the work steps and storage ;-) )
Deems
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Well
>
>
>
> Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over
> the rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work
> on it and still set rivets.
>
>
>
> What have most of you builders done to do this.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 40864 Emp heaven
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 31
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| Subject: | Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
I agree with Deems. I started off doing the same thing until a couple people
asked me what the benefit was. I said to protect the parts but that goes out
the window as soon as you realize you have to scuff the whole thing up anyway
to paint and the plastic won't stop anything that would gouge the skins. So
unless you are going to polish the skin and not paint, I wouldn't waste the hours
it will take. Most people have also reported that it is much more difficult
to take off the longer it is left on. And the corrosion problem is real, people
have seen filliform corrosion under the blue wrap. YMMV
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 6:00 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum
A soldering iron with the tip polished/rounded a bit, so it doesn't
scar the alclad. Although you should be aware some builders have
reported that after some prolonged time in storage, they removed the
plastic and found corrosion ?????. I know that If the blue film gets
exposed to a heat source (direct sunlight e.g.) it will develop
wrinkles, and these areas are opportunities for moisture to collect. I
did the soldering iron thing, myself, and didn't find any corrosion
(but I live in Arizona) However, now as I'm ready for paint, I question
whether the hours spent doing it were worth while. (It did make the
parts 'easier to look at' during the work steps and storage ;-) )
Deems
John Cumins wrote:
>
> Well
>
>
> Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over
> the rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work
> on it and still set rivets.
>
>
> What have most of you builders done to do this.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> John
>
>
> 40864 Emp heaven
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | primer suggestions |
DP40 is NOT self etching. It's a catalyzed epoxy primer that can be used a
s a sealer depending how it's mixed. Great stuff though.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 6:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: primer suggestions
PPG DP-40LF two part self etching epoxy primer. Use PPG DX533 aluminum cle
aner with red Scotchbrite pads to prep the aluminum. Rinse with a lot of w
ater, let dry then prime.
Very tough, scratch and solvent resistant product. I use the same primer w
ith PPG concept base coat clear coat for the finish paint. PPG concept is
very forgiving to the amateur painter working in a makeshift paint booth.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (425 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cumins
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 6:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not want
to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple primer t
hat I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protection. I a
m in northern California so no real wet environment at all. Plus I have a
have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
John,=0ABe very careful; we all love what we each did, whether it was 10-pa
rt fingerpaint with a-Reynolds' Wrap seal or "nothin' but bare 'lumium wi
th an elbow-grease shine;" this can be a very touchy subject.- BUT since
you asked about a simple one-step method -- =0AMost folks going with the ra
ttle-can self-etching method have used either Kelly's suggestion of Napa #7
220 or Sherwin Williams SW988 found at industrial paint stores, NOT the hom
e SW Paint store.- I believe these two primers are actually very similar,
with the Napa being a different color and a little cheaper per can.=0AI lu
cked out one time so far and got a case (12 cans) of SW988 from an unsuspec
ting salesman, from whom I requested a bulk discount and got them for aroun
d $5 a can, as opposed to 9-12.=0AScuff with Scotchbrite pad, clean with ac
etone or denatured alcohol (these are "safer" for your skin than MEK), allo
w it to flash off and then spray.- Your application doesn't even have to
be perfectly smooth.- Remember, you're priming, not painting.- This way
you know you're not obsessed with perfect primer coats, but you'll get bet
ter and more efficient as you go, and your jobs will look better by default
.=0ARob Wright=0A#392=0AStruggling through window glue-in=0A=0A=0A=0A-----
Original Message ----=0AFrom: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>=0ATo: rv10
-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, July 7, 2008 7:06:01 PM=0ASubject: Re:
cMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>=0A=0ANAPA #7220 Self Etching Primer (listed at
NAPA in their=0AMartin Senour catalog).=0AIf rattle can primer satisfies y
ou. Not as robust as the 2 part=0Aepoxies. Depends on exposure in your area
and how long you intend to=0Aworry about the condition of the plane. I'll
be very lucky if I get to=0Afly mine 20 years.=0A=0AOn Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at
3:46 PM, John Cumins <jcumins@jcis.net> wrote:=0A> I am looking to find a v
ery easy to spray and manage primer.- I do not want=0A> to acid etch and
Aldine then prime.- So I am looking for a simple primer=0A> that I can sp
ray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protection.- I=0A> am in n
orthern California so no real wet environment at all.- Plus I have a=0A>
have to park it in.=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> What would you builders recommend.=0A>
=0A>=0A>=0A> Thanks=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> John=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> 40864=0A>=0A>=0A>
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, List Admi
======0A=0A=0A
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet aluminum |
John;
Unless you plan to keep the plane all aluminum (aka not paint) I would
recommend not wasting your time with trying to solder off the plastic. I
did this for my empennage and part of the wings than finally realized
that just taking off the plastic and working on it (I will paint
eventually) looked better over the last year than the scratches I
created with the soldering iron. If you do want to remove the strips of
plastic over the rivets, use a smoothed soldering iron and using a yard
stick; go down the line you want and peel off the plastic, careful you
don't scratch the alclad while do so however.
Another topic I should raise... if you're going to prime no need to
worry about protecting the aluminum since it will all get covered
anyway.
I now peel off the plastic, deburr and dimple and (try to) forget about
all those happy faces and scratches, it was losing battle for me.
Pascal
From: John Cumins
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Easiest way to remove blue plastic from sheet
aluminum
Well
Call me a rookie. I want to remove strips of the blue plastic over the
rivet rows to I can still protect most of the metal while I work on it
and still set rivets.
What have most of you builders done to do this.
Thanks
John
40864 Emp heaven
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
Being your in California forget Sher Win DTM wash primer, it was a
great product for me but banned in this state. I hear from my rep that
there is a great 1 part acrylic but I haven't tested it yet.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pdf/products/pro_industrial_0voc_acrylic.
pdf
From: John Cumins
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not
want to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple
primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable
protection. I am in northern California so no real wet environment at
all. Plus I have a have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
John Cumins wrote:
> I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not
> want to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple
> primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable
> protection.
Sherwin Williams 988 self etching primer in a spray can:
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565>
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118
http://deej.net/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
John
I have had great results with SEM primer. I studied primer a bunch until
I landed on Randy Lervold's site and took his advice:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.html#Primer Randy is
our EAA Chapter 105 president. I use the spray cans with a clip on spray
handle for convenience. Cost is a bit more then quarts but, easy
clean-up and pro finish. I do not scuff with scotchbright choosing
instead to preserve that layer of added factory protection, I just wipe
my parts with lacquer thinner and shoot them. Last thing, I prime each
part before assembly adding the layer of protection where is is needed
most in the future.
I know there are at least 20 guys that are reading this and thinking
wrong, wrong, wrong.
Best Wishes, good priming,
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450 rudder pedals
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cumins
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not
want to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple
primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable
protection. I am in northern California so no real wet environment at
all. Plus I have a have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
Sherwin Williams 988 Self etching primer, buy two cases, spray cans,...give
it a few days to heal....all but my tailcone was done with it..works great
...first primer war in a year, shot fired in anger!!!! DUCK!!!!
Rick Sked...
40185...is it really this close to being flyable???=C2-
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cumins" <jcumins@jcis.net>
Sent: Monday, July 7, 2008 3:46:00 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer.=C2- I do not
want to acid etch and Aldine then prime.=C2- So I am looking for a simpl
e primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable protec
tion.=C2- I am in northern California so no real wet environment at all.
=C2- Plus I have a have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
====
=======================
==
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: primer suggestions |
well I am one that says right on! That is what I did and the primer has
held well. I did use the 988 and funny that the self etch actually
doesn't do well with alclad and comes off pretty easily. Wash primer no
problemo as our governor would say!
Pascal
From: Paul Grimstad
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: primer segestions
John
I have had great results with SEM primer. I studied primer a bunch until
I landed on Randy Lervold's site and took his advice:
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.html#Primer Randy is
our EAA Chapter 105 president. I use the spray cans with a clip on spray
handle for convenience. Cost is a bit more then quarts but, easy
clean-up and pro finish. I do not scuff with scotchbright choosing
instead to preserve that layer of added factory protection, I just wipe
my parts with lacquer thinner and shoot them. Last thing, I prime each
part before assembly adding the layer of protection where is is needed
most in the future.
I know there are at least 20 guys that are reading this and thinking
wrong, wrong, wrong.
Best Wishes, good priming,
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450 rudder pedals
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cumins
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: primer segestions
I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not
want to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple
primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable
protection. I am in northern California so no real wet environment at
all. Plus I have a have to park it in.
What would you builders recommend.
Thanks
John
40864
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Home grown overhead console |
Thanks for such uplifting feedback everybody!
I always wanted a Lancair but settled for the RV-10 ;>) I shyed away as
I learned more about composites, I would worry to no end about my
quality of cure I would be getting here in humid eastern CarolinaI, but
I actually kinda enjoy fiberglass in that it offers so much potential
though there is a price (time and mess). .
I built the courage up to do the console from following the master of
mod, Deems Davis! Thanks Deems.
These nut plates are interesting, a bit pricey I'd say. Thanks for the
heads up!
-Chris
#40072
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Grimstad
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
Chris,
Good job on the overhead.
You mentioned nut plates, and I wanted to tell you about these:
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/Categories.aspx?Category=07adfbee-0ad0-45
93-a52e-30065aedb553
Just drill your hole in the f/g part and epoxy these in. You pull them
into the drilled hole with the colored rubber bungy and when set-up you
just pull the bungy out and your done.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450 rudder pedals
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 7:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
Thought I would share some photos of my recently completed overhead
console. I think it came out pretty good. I am still finishing it up
and need to add nut plates to mount the vents, also need to add access
plates etc. I used blue foam as a mold. I shaped the foam and then
taped it on the top. I used tape around the edges to protect the cabin
top. The fillet was done with spackling compound. I sanded the foam
and spackling smooth and then covered with mold release wax. Yes it took
some time but it was not difficult to do.
So... it can be done without buying after market if desired - no
special skills.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Home grown overhead console |
Thanks Marcus, it really is not that hard, I did vascilate on the size
especially the thickness. Also I will have a headliner to cover the
imperfections, and there are a few.
-Chris
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 11:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
Chris,
Well done! It looks great and is much less obtrusive then all the
other options I've seen. I've done a lot of fiberglass work (built a Q2
as my first project) but am not sure I could pull off what you did so
well.
Marcus
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 9:44 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Home grown overhead console
Thought I would share some photos of my recently completed overhead
console. I think it came out pretty good. I am still finishing it up
and need to add nut plates to mount the vents, also need to add access
plates etc. I used blue foam as a mold. I shaped the foam and then
taped it on the top. I used tape around the edges to protect the cabin
top. The fillet was done with spackling compound. I sanded the foam
and spackling smooth and then covered with mold release wax. Yes it took
some time but it was not difficult to do.
So... it can be done without buying after market if desired - no
special skills.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: primer segestions |
You can still use Akzo primer...just scuff, degrease, and spray.
Should still be pretty tough, and it's a 2 part sealing primer.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Cumins wrote:
> I am looking to find a very easy to spray and manage primer. I do not
> want to acid etch and Aldine then prime. So I am looking for a simple
> primer that I can spray right on to a scuffed part with reasonable
> protection. I am in northern California so no real wet environment at
> all. Plus I have a have to park it in.
>
>
>
> What would you builders recommend.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> 40864
>
Message 43
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On my 8A I insert the side cowl pins from the cockpit. This eliminates the
pin retainer at the front of the cowl. I use 1/4" aluminum tube as a pin
conduit aft of the firewall to the second bulkhead. The conduit is attached
to the second bulkhead using standard AN fittings. The pins have a locking
device to the second bulkhead so that they do not vibrate out. I plan on
doing the same in the 10.
Carl Froehlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cowl pins
Here are some additional ideas I saw at OSH last year. I need to get a
picture of an RV with the Van's ""tabbed" pin.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/HingePin/index.html
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To: <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
>
> I used the tabbed ones from Vans.
>
>
>
> Rene' Felker
>
> RV-10 N423CF Flying
>
> 801-721-6080
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:13 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Cowl pins
>
>
>
> Are folks using "stock" side cowl pins, or the "tabbed" ones that Van's
has
> ?
>
>
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> 40025, still . . .
Message 44
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I used the tabbed pins, looks neat.
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy wrote:
>
> Are folks using stock side cowl pins, or the tabbed ones that
> Vans has ?
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend
>
> 40025, still . . .
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 45
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Can somebody tell me what if anything the function of the nut on the
nosewheel valve stem is? and how to install it if it is needed?
Step 7 page 46-3 says to remove the nut and _washers_. There were no
washers.
The stem is threaded on the outer part only it takes about 4 each #5
washers to allow the nut to tighten at all, otherwise it just screws
off the threaded area.
The nut is just a plain nut; it has no locking feature at all, and
would have to be double-nutted to stay put.
I'm using the Matco 511.25 and Van's-supplied tire and tube.
Puzzled
John Ackerman 40458
Message 46
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I don't think that nut is used at all. From my memory, Van's said to
just put a little piece of rubber or something around the valve stem
where it exits the wheel and then leave it at that. I don't know what
others' experience is, but I have had good success with this technique.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Jul 7, 2008, at 11:02 PM, John Ackerman wrote:
>
> Can somebody tell me what if anything the function of the nut on the
> nosewheel valve stem is? and how to install it if it is needed?
> Step 7 page 46-3 says to remove the nut and _washers_. There were no
> washers.
> The stem is threaded on the outer part only it takes about 4 each
> #5 washers to allow the nut to tighten at all, otherwise it just
> screws off the threaded area.
> The nut is just a plain nut; it has no locking feature at all, and
> would have to be double-nutted to stay put.
> I'm using the Matco 511.25 and Van's-supplied tire and tube.
> Puzzled
> John Ackerman 40458
>
>
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