Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:11 AM - Re: Flying RV-10 Weight (John Cox)
2. 07:19 AM - Re: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets (Dave Leikam)
3. 09:09 AM - Re: counter sinking canopy holes (Lew Gallagher)
4. 09:19 AM - Re: Main Landing Gear Fairing Bolt Failure (Bill DeRouchey)
5. 10:21 AM - Re: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets (Les Kearney)
6. 10:40 AM - Re: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets (Carl Froehlich)
7. 11:09 AM - Re: Main Landing Gear Fairing Bolt Failure (Tim Olson)
8. 11:55 AM - Re: Flying RV-10 Weight (Neil & Sarah Colliver)
9. 12:45 PM - Re: Re: counter sinking canopy holes (pascal)
10. 12:59 PM - Re: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets (MauleDriver)
11. 02:26 PM - Re: Flying RV-10 Weight (John Cox)
12. 02:26 PM - Back seats (Dave Leikam)
13. 03:55 PM - Re: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets (McGANN, Ron)
14. 04:24 PM - Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation (pascal)
15. 04:26 PM - Re: Flying RV-10 Weight (Chris, Susie, Darcy)
16. 04:50 PM - Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation (Bruce Snyder)
17. 06:01 PM - Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation (pascal)
18. 06:02 PM - Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation (rleffler)
19. 06:36 PM - Re: Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
20. 07:37 PM - Re: Flying RV-10 Weight (John Cox)
21. 07:46 PM - Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation (Steven DiNieri)
22. 07:46 PM - RV-10 HQ Group 2 (bcondrey)
23. 07:56 PM - Gross weight (lbgjb10)
24. 08:07 PM - Re: Flying RV-10 Weight (Rene)
25. 08:11 PM - Re: Flying RV-10 Weight (Chris, Susie, Darcy)
26. 09:19 PM - Fw: non Rv-10 related- radio control video (pascal)
27. 09:36 PM - Re: Elevator Trim Bracket Mod? (AirMike)
28. 09:51 PM - Re: Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation (Robin Marks)
29. 09:58 PM - Re: Flying RV-10 Weight (Robin Marks)
30. 10:07 PM - Re: Fw: non Rv-10 related- radio control video (Dave Leikam)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Flying RV-10 Weight |
27 are in my database. That leaves well over 120 not reporting in on finished
weight.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
Checkoway has a W&B database on his site. Looks like he has 11 RV-10's in it at
the moment. I recommend that anyone the is flying and hasn't entered their
weight into this to do so. It's a great resource and the more data the better.
http://www.rvproject.com/wab/
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
-10 List,
Is there a record of flying RV-10's weights anyplace on the web? Should
I be 30# over Max Gross weight before fluids or paint? Ok, ok, it's not that
bad....
Robin
Well... it's getting weighed...
Do Not Archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
I experienced the same problem on the same parts. I held the rod with
the rivet, shop side down squarely over the flat anvil of my bench vise
and used my rivet gun with the proper set. Go slow. Worked well.
Squeezer didn't. I think the problem is that the rod is hollow and does
not support the rivet shank inside.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 12:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
John
I'll see you at Whitman.
Cheers
Les
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: July-19-08 7:49 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
I have a Cherry Max depth gauge for you which is used to size the grip
measurement and confirm correct rivet length for any job. I will send
you one if you send me your address.
John J. is correct, in many locations the AN bolt, fastener or rivet
is incorrect on the company plans. By the time you are out of parts,
you will be able to read the correct length and make certain they comply
with the guidelines of the AC 43.13. If your DAR is any good, he might
point out the error of the lengths during the paperwork review (oh yeh,
Canadians don't use DARs). Boy is Rob's new prop exciting.
Scrapes, bruises and torn knuckles getting the Warbird ready for the
flight next week. Aurora to Missoula to Glendive, MT (on Thursday) then
West Bend, WI (on Friday) with final arrival at the big one (on Sunday).
Bringing a few cases of cold ones for Tim and Bob, Mike and the
stakeout gang.
Without an address, I will bring the gauge direct to RV Central at
OSH. There is nothing like a Wisconsin summer.
John C.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:38 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Les, are the rivets trying to tell you something? JC would wonder if
they were too long to begin with. Many rivets called out in the plans
are either too short or too long. Up to us to determine proper size.
Rivet cutters are cheap.
Just musing.
John J
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:49 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10 construction, I hit
something that causes me no end of grief. This time it is the rod ends
for wings. After trashing one set due to a measurement error (duh!), I
made another perfect set after getting replacement tubes from Van's.
This time when riveting with the AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets seemed
to slump to one side. How does one squeeze these rivets without
slumping? Part of the problem may be the size of the rivets I am trying
to squeeze - the -11 rivets are just a bit to long for my pneumatic
squeezer jaws so I have to work at getting them to come down. I also
wonder if the hollow tube affects how the rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
OK, Don. You are on the list for John's "Traveling Countersink Show".
I left a message on Eric's voice mail yesterday -- no response yet.
Later, - Lew
Do not archive.
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193925#193925
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Main Landing Gear Fairing Bolt Failure |
Hi again Tim - (its all good discussion)
-
The wobble measurements of 3/4" vertical and 1/2" lateral was the distance
my hand was moving when testing the fairing security during my pre-flight.
My hand was on the forward- tip of the fairing.-So it had an approx 18"
of lever arm on the U-1010L plate. Working with just the plate: if you tig
hten the plate then back off each bolt to create a 1/64" opening it would b
e equilivant to the plate wiggle that I observed. Thinking about it more it
was probably closer to 1/32".
-
All forces on the fairing need to be transfered back into the axel and the
mount acts as a system with attach points at the fairing outboard and inboa
rd. When a weak point develops it "leans" on the other side to accelerate w
ear at that point. Then they go back and forth destroying each other-very
quickly.
-
The standard axel end standoff-orbiting about the AN4-6 bolt-is the wea
k point-outboard-and the U-1008 to U-1010-joint galling is the weak p
oint inboard. Yesterday, I thought the galling was the original sin that br
oke the AN4-6 bolt but your information indicates that the standoff is the
major problem since your U-1010 plate is still secure. If you solve the pro
blem on one side it reduces the forces on-the other. It would not surpris
e me that if one mounted the U-1010 plate as I suggested earlier with a was
her and steel spacers the AN4-6 bolt would not break for-a-thousand plu
s-hours.
-
If you were smarter than me and deviated from the plans-slipping a thin w
asher between the U-1008 and the U-1010 then you have a good 90% solution t
hat will probably last forever. If not, the joint absolutely will gall and
loosen over time. Question is how much time?
-
I think every weak point-needs-fixing to keep a system-failure from o
ccuring.
- - Devise any standoff with a large OD that will not orbit and-no co
tter key through the bolt
--- Add a washer between the U-1008 and U-1010
--- Replace the U-1008 with steel spacers and torque properly-
---
Its all about minimizing problems over-long service times. Nothing really
needs to be fixed until the fairing begins to wiggle. Just check it on you
r pre-flight.
-
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
-
-
---- On Sat, 7/19/08, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Main Landing Gear Fairing Bolt Failure
Hi again Bill,
One more followup... you said "It was approximately 3/4" top to
bottom
and 1/2" left to right."
I want to make sure I'm understanding. Are you saying that if you
grab the top of that fairing mounting plate (the big swiss cheese
bent thick aluminum metal plate) that you can rock it back and forth
pulling in/out on it if you're sitting facing the side of the wheel
grabbing it by the top, and if you grabbed it by the aft end of that
plate you could pull it 1/2" in and out? As in, that whole plate
gets wobbly?
I ask because so far, mine is very solid with no slop, at 360 approx
hours. I just mounted those flex brake lines to that plate
not long ago so I recently had it apart, and it's really tight.
I've had the axle extension now for probably the last 2 years
or so though, so I'm wondering if maybe yours loosened over time
maybe partly due to the fact that you hadn't been using the extensions.
That would be a possibility I'd think. Let me know if I'm
misunderstanding how it was loose though.
I do think that the outer end of the fairing mount, where it attaches
to the extension, will naturally have to support quite a bit of
bumping up and down. Even if that plate were solid (and by all means,
making or keeping it solid is a great thing), I think that 1/4-28
stainless screw needs to hold that fairing pretty solidly, as there
is going to be quite a bit of torque from the axle extension to
the axle nut trying to snap that bolt. I know my hex rod, even
after 6-12 months, had rounded the corners over rocking on that
metal washer....so yeah, that bolt in the standard design is
definitely a fracture point waiting to happen. Anything you can
do...any of the various axle extensions that were created, should
help make that bolt snapping much much less of an issue. I personally
think they should be standard parts with the kits, given the size
of the wheel fairings we carry around....and the number of
broken extensions we've seen. I know there are over a half-dozen
or more.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> Hi Tim-
>
> I remember the list addressing the AN4-6 bolt issue but I had already
> mounted my wheels and did not want to back track. Maybe I should have in
> retrospec.
>
>
>
> My extensions were Vans stock with no modifications. The U-1008 spacers
> were galled at the contact with U-1010L and had dug in approx 1/64".
All
> three spacers/plate showed the same wear and the "wiggle"
produced at
> the forward point of the fairing was very noticable. It was
> approximately 3/4" top to bottom and 1/2" left to right. Imagine
the
> U-1010L plate mounted on 3 weak standoffs and the little play required
> to move the forward point of the fairing. Of course, this was with the
> small shoulder spacer from Vans on the outboard side.
>
>
>
> The modification of the axel nut standoff as in your drawing should work
> very well but it is only half of the problem. It would address and solve
> wiggle on the outboard fairing attach point but is carrying load that
> should be disipated by the U-1010L plate. By not shifting load to the
> U-1010L the big countersunk 1/4-28 screw and the fiberglass at the
> outboard end of the standoff must be handling a lot of shock when the
> tire hits a bump.
>
>
>
> If anyone flying has wiggle in their MLG fairings I believe it can be
> traced to galling between U-1008 and U-1010L. Omitting a steel washer
> created the galling but the inability to properly torque the three bolts
> is also problematic. I initially torqued the three bolts with a thin
> washer between the aluminum pieces and watched the spacer puff out.
> After adding an outer steel sheath and a thin washer to fill-in the
> indentation of U-1010L the plate torques to a solid mount for the
> fairing. The difference in U-1010L stiffness between the before and
> after is huge.
>
>
>
> Bill DeRouchey
>
> N939SB, flying
>
>
>
> --- On *Sat, 7/19/08, Tim Olson /<Tim@MyRV10.com>/* wrote:
>
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Main Landing Gear Fairing Bolt Failure
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, July 19, 2008, 3:24 PM
>
>
>
>
> Bill,
>
> Were you already using improved axle extensions? These
> are what we came up with a couple years ago to fix breakage
> at that point.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html
> If not, that's a pretty easy way to strengthen that point,
> as that stem actually doesn't have enough base to prevent
> the hex rod from rocking back and forth.
>
> Did you actually see deformation of those 3 spacers?
>
> From what it sounds like at first glance, you may be going
> about it the hard way to fix the problem, but I'd like to hear
> more of what damaged parts you found OTHER than the bolt
> stem.
>
> Tim
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
> Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> > I landed approximately a dozen times on a long, grass strip in
the Idaho
> > wilderness and found the AN4-6 bolt shown on page 46-5 figure 2
sheared
> > at the cotter pin. This is the AN4 that pokes out of the large
axel nut
> > to hold the fairing standoff. The port side failed but the
starboard MLG
> > fairing could be wiggled and would soon fail.
> >
> >
> >
> > The strip is pocked with small mounds much like a polo field
before the
> > divits are replaced. There were no holes, nor did I hit anything,
nor
> > did I land hard. The fiberglass fairing is still pristine. What
caused
> > the problem is the fairing jiggling up and down during the roll
out.
> >
> >
> >
> > Tearing the landing gear down for inspection revealed that the
current
> > design will not work over time. I believe the failure begins at
the 3
> > U-1008 spacers shown on page 46-4 figure 4. When the fairing
bounces
> > about these spacers gall the U-1010L plate and loosen the inboard
side
> > of the fairing. Once the inboard side of the fairing begins to
move
> > around it has a 5 inch lever arm (U-1004B) from the outboard
fairing
> > attachment point that works the AN4 bolt and will shear it at the
cotter
> > pin hole. Looking at the sheared bolt endwise the structural area
is
> > very small after the cotter hole is drilled and the thread depths
are
> > subtracted.
> >
> >
> >
> > Two items need to be redesigned. The three bolts thru U-1010L
cannot be
> > tightened because the tension simply crushes the aluminum
spacers. The
> > spacers need to be steel and the joint tightened. I don't
have a lathe
>
> > but do have lots of 4130 tubing .5" OD by .375 ID. I cleaned
the
> inside
> > of the tube with a .375" ream and pressed the aluminum
spacer inside.
>
> > Added a washer between the spacer and the U-1010L and tightened
it
> > properly. Now it is much stiffer.
> >
> >
> >
> > Beefing up the AN4 at the axel nut required much more work. If
you only
> > have a hammer then you use a hammer to fix all problems. I
created a
> > weldment with a TIG welder but a lathe is the better tool. I used
the
> > same steel .5"OD by .375"ID tubing and constructed a
standoff
> with an
> > AN5 stud on one end and an AN4 nut on the other. Drilled out the
axel
> > nut for the AN5 and placed the AN5 nut on the inside of the axel
nut.
> > Make sure you have clearance when the big cotter pin is inserted
thru
> > the axel nut. I am sure there are many more clever approaches but
this
> > will work.
> >
> >
> >
> > BTW there were several flight test engineers at our camp that
encouraged
> > me to fly home from Idaho with one MLG fairing on and the other
off.
> > This would be more convenient as my RV-10 was stuffed full of
camping
> > equipment and there was no room for another MLG fairing. I duct
taped
> > the leg fairings in place and took off. They were right. At
cruise the
> > cost was 8 mph and 1/4 bubble of rudder. No handling difference.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill DeRouchey
> >
> > N939SB, flying
> >
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
Dave
I am glad that I am not the only one who has had the same problem. Misery
loves company as the saying goes.
Knowing that I am going to call the House of Van's for more parts tomorrow,
I decided to do a little experimenting. I will pas this on so others can
learn from my mistakes.
* Riveting tubes can be a b^&ch
* When drilling the holes in the tube, it is important to go down the
exact centerline of the tube. Being even a little off center will cause
problems with riveting (slumping). If even slightly off center, the rivet
head will conform to the radius of the tube and you will then be riveting
off center.
* Drilling a pilot all the way through then re-drilling with the rod
end installed can cause the bottom hole to be a bit off center (elongated)
if not drilled exactly down the centerline. (Dos anyone have any ideas why
Van's calls for pilots first and then final drilling through the rod ends?
It seems like this makes the whole process a bit riskier).
* I found that installing the rod ends could be deceptively difficult.
What I did on my "test" pieces was:
* install the first rod end (which was very tight)
* drilled a pilot through the whole assembly
* drilled the final #30 hole through the whole assembly
* cleaned out the chips in the tube and deburred the exterior holes
* back riveted the end on (as suggested by Carl & Dave)
* repeated for the next hole
* primed the interior of the tube
* Installed the second rod end and drilled as above
* Deburred and riveted
* I would have liked to deburr the interior side of rod end holes but
they were just too tight to get off without damaging the assembly. Anyway, I
can't see how the interior burrs and chips would be a factor (is this a
reasonable assumption?).
Dave's comment about going slow is absolutely essential. A series of very
light tabs is all that is required. To fast and you will be adding to your
scrap bin. Drilling out slumped rivets was beyond my ability.
In retrospect, I think a second set of eyes to help keep things square would
be very useful. I was working solo which was probably part of my problem as
parts orientation is critical when drilling and riveting a tube.
Comments on the above would be appreciated as it will be a while before I
get my replacement parts.
BTW, anybody need some slightly undersized rod end tubing?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - happily turning parts into scrap
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: July-20-08 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
I experienced the same problem on the same parts. I held the rod with the
rivet, shop side down squarely over the flat anvil of my bench vise and used
my rivet gun with the proper set. Go slow. Worked well. Squeezer didn't.
I think the problem is that the rod is hollow and does not support the rivet
shank inside.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
Message 6
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| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
One comment, always drill round tubes and such with a drill press and a tube
holder. I made a tube holder out of a piece of 2"x6", making two 45 degree
cuts to make a 'V' using a radial arm saw. The tube sits in the 'V'. I
added a couple of bolts to hold the jig onto the drill press so that the
drill bit was in the exact center of the 'V'. You can buy an aluminum one
from Harbor freight cheap enough as well.
Be careful not to put too much pressure on the drill bit or it will wander
off center.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 1:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
Dave
I am glad that I am not the only one who has had the same problem. Misery
loves company as the saying goes.
Knowing that I am going to call the House of Van's for more parts tomorrow,
I decided to do a little experimenting. I will pas this on so others can
learn from my mistakes.
* Riveting tubes can be a b^&ch
* When drilling the holes in the tube, it is important to go down the
exact centerline of the tube. Being even a little off center will cause
problems with riveting (slumping). If even slightly off center, the rivet
head will conform to the radius of the tube and you will then be riveting
off center.
* Drilling a pilot all the way through then re-drilling with the rod
end installed can cause the bottom hole to be a bit off center (elongated)
if not drilled exactly down the centerline. (Dos anyone have any ideas why
Van's calls for pilots first and then final drilling through the rod ends?
It seems like this makes the whole process a bit riskier).
* I found that installing the rod ends could be deceptively difficult.
What I did on my "test" pieces was:
* install the first rod end (which was very tight)
* drilled a pilot through the whole assembly
* drilled the final #30 hole through the whole assembly
* cleaned out the chips in the tube and deburred the exterior holes
* back riveted the end on (as suggested by Carl & Dave)
* repeated for the next hole
* primed the interior of the tube
* Installed the second rod end and drilled as above
* Deburred and riveted
* I would have liked to deburr the interior side of rod end holes but
they were just too tight to get off without damaging the assembly. Anyway, I
can't see how the interior burrs and chips would be a factor (is this a
reasonable assumption?).
Dave's comment about going slow is absolutely essential. A series of very
light tabs is all that is required. To fast and you will be adding to your
scrap bin. Drilling out slumped rivets was beyond my ability.
In retrospect, I think a second set of eyes to help keep things square would
be very useful. I was working solo which was probably part of my problem as
parts orientation is critical when drilling and riveting a tube.
Comments on the above would be appreciated as it will be a while before I
get my replacement parts.
BTW, anybody need some slightly undersized rod end tubing?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - happily turning parts into scrap
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: July-20-08 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
I experienced the same problem on the same parts. I held the rod with the
rivet, shop side down squarely over the flat anvil of my bench vise and used
my rivet gun with the proper set. Go slow. Worked well. Squeezer didn't.
I think the problem is that the rod is hollow and does not support the rivet
shank inside.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Main Landing Gear Fairing Bolt Failure |
I agree with your comments Bill. I think in an ideal world, if you
fixed it on both sides, you'd never have any issue at all. If
you fix it on either side, you probably lessen your chances of
having problems greatly. If you leave it as-is on the plans,
you probably COULD go a long time, but eventually you'll have
some wear or weakening and when you land on grass you'll have
those original axle extensions break.
For me, I'll just monitor those spacers for now then, because
I'm not seeing that with the heavier-duty extensions that
there's as much flex going on to gall the parts. But, I
may slip in a thin washer next time I'm in that area, to
help prevent wear on the metal plate.
Great that you brought it up and clarified it. Certainly if
there were that 3/4 and 1/2" movement on the metal plate, that
would be really severe....at least those measurements were
at the fairing tips. Still not good, but now I see why the
number was larger than I expected.
So far it looks to me like the 2 most "faulty" or in-need-of-fix
areas on the plane are probably those axle extensions and spacers
on the mains that we're talking about, and the spacer system up
on that nosewheel. Other than that, the plane is adding up
lots of good hours with no major issues.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> Hi again Tim - (its all good discussion)
>
>
>
> The wobble measurements of 3/4" vertical and 1/2" lateral was the
> distance my hand was moving when testing the fairing security during my
> pre-flight. My hand was on the forward tip of the fairing. So it had an
> approx 18" of lever arm on the U-1010L plate. Working with just the
> plate: if you tighten the plate then back off each bolt to create a
> 1/64" opening it would be equilivant to the plate wiggle that I
> observed. Thinking about it more it was probably closer to 1/32".
>
>
>
> All forces on the fairing need to be transfered back into the axel and
> the mount acts as a system with attach points at the fairing outboard
> and inboard. When a weak point develops it "leans" on the other side to
> accelerate wear at that point. Then they go back and forth destroying
> each other very quickly.
>
>
>
> The standard axel end standoff orbiting about the AN4-6 bolt is the weak
> point outboard and the U-1008 to U-1010 joint galling is the weak point
> inboard. Yesterday, I thought the galling was the original sin that
> broke the AN4-6 bolt but your information indicates that the standoff is
> the major problem since your U-1010 plate is still secure. If you solve
> the problem on one side it reduces the forces on the other. It would not
> surprise me that if one mounted the U-1010 plate as I suggested earlier
> with a washer and steel spacers the AN4-6 bolt would not break
> for a thousand plus hours.
>
>
>
> If you were smarter than me and deviated from the plans slipping a thin
> washer between the U-1008 and the U-1010 then you have a good 90%
> solution that will probably last forever. If not, the joint absolutely
> will gall and loosen over time. Question is how much time?
>
>
>
> I think every weak point needs fixing to keep a system failure from
> occuring.
>
> Devise any standoff with a large OD that will not orbit and no
> cotter key through the bolt
>
> Add a washer between the U-1008 and U-1010
>
> Replace the U-1008 with steel spacers and torque properly
>
> Its all about minimizing problems over long service times. Nothing
> really needs to be fixed until the fairing begins to wiggle. Just check
> it on your pre-flight.
>
>
>
> Bill DeRouchey
>
> N939SB, flying
>
>
>
>
>
> --- On *Sat, 7/19/08, Tim Olson /<Tim@MyRV10.com>/* wrote:
>
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Main Landing Gear Fairing Bolt Failure
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, July 19, 2008, 8:14 PM
>
>
> Hi again Bill,
> One more followup... you said "It was approximately 3/4" top to
> bottom
> and 1/2" left to right."
>
> I want to make sure I'm understanding. Are you saying that if you
> grab the top of that fairing mounting plate (the big swiss cheese
> bent thick aluminum metal plate) that you can rock it back and forth
> pulling in/out on it if you're sitting facing the side of the wheel
> grabbing it by the top, and if you grabbed it by the aft end of that
> plate you could pull it 1/2" in and out? As in, that whole plate
> gets wobbly?
>
> I ask because so far, mine is very solid with no slop, at 360 approx
> hours. I just mounted those flex brake lines to that plate
> not long ago so I recently had it apart, and it's really tight.
> I've had the axle extension now for probably the last 2 years
> or so though, so I'm wondering if maybe yours loosened over time
> maybe partly due to the fact that you hadn't been using the extensions.
> That would be a possibility I'd think. Let me know if I'm
> misunderstanding how it was loose though.
>
> I do think that the outer end of the fairing mount, where it attaches
> to the extension, will naturally have to support quite a bit of
> bumping up and down. Even if that plate were solid (and by all means,
> making or keeping it solid is a great thing), I think that 1/4-28
> stainless screw needs to hold that fairing pretty solidly, as there
> is going to be quite a bit of torque from the axle extension to
> the axle nut trying to snap that bolt. I know my hex rod, even
> after 6-12 months, had rounded the corners over rocking on that
> metal washer....so yeah, that bolt in the standard design is
> definitely a fracture point waiting to happen. Anything you can
> do...any of the various axle extensions that were created, should
> help make that bolt snapping much much less of an issue. I personally
> think they should be standard parts with the kits, given the size
> of the wheel fairings we carry around....and the number of
> broken extensions we've seen. I know there are over a half-dozen
> or more.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> > Hi Tim-
> >
> > I remember the list addressing the AN4-6 bolt issue but I had already
> > mounted my wheels and did not want to back track. Maybe I should have in
> > retrospec.
> >
> >
> >
> > My extensions were Vans stock with no modifications. The U-1008 spacers
> > were galled at the contact with U-1010L and had dug in approx 1/64".
> All
> > three spacers/plate showed the same wear and the "wiggle"
> produced at
> > the forward point of the fairing was very noticable. It was
> > approximately 3/4" top to bottom and 1/2" left to right. Imagine
> the
> > U-1010L plate mounted on 3 weak standoffs and the little play required
> > to move the forward point of the fairing. Of course, this was with the
> > small shoulder spacer from Vans on the outboard side.
> >
> >
> >
> > The modification of the axel nut standoff as in your drawing should work
> > very well but it is only half of the problem. It would address and solve
> > wiggle on the outboard fairing attach point but is carrying load that
> > should be disipated by the U-1010L plate. By not shifting load to the
> > U-1010L the big countersunk 1/4-28 screw and the fiberglass at the
> > outboard end of the standoff must be handling a lot of shock when the
> > tire hits a bump.
> >
> >
> >
> > If anyone flying has wiggle in their MLG fairings I believe it can be
> > traced to galling between U-1008 and U-1010L. Omitting a steel washer
> > created the galling but the inability to properly torque the three bolts
> > is also problematic. I initially torqued the three bolts with a thin
> > washer between the aluminum pieces and watched the spacer puff out.
> > After adding an outer steel sheath and a thin washer to fill-in the
> > indentation of U-1010L the plate torques to a solid mount for the
> > fairing. The difference in U-1010L stiffness between the before and
> > after is huge.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill DeRouchey
> >
> > N939SB, flying
> >
> >
> >
> > --- On *Sat, 7/19/08, Tim Olson /<Tim@MyRV10.com>/* wrote:
> >
> > From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Main Landing Gear Fairing Bolt Failure
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Date: Saturday, July 19, 2008, 3:24 PM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > Were you already using improved axle extensions? These
> > are what we came up with a couple years ago to fix breakage
> > at that point.
> > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html
> > If not, that's a pretty easy way to strengthen that point,
> > as that stem actually doesn't have enough base to prevent
> > the hex rod from rocking back and forth.
> >
> > Did you actually see deformation of those 3 spacers?
> >
> > From what it sounds like at first glance, you may be going
> > about it the hard way to fix the problem, but I'd like to hear
> > more of what damaged parts you found OTHER than the bolt
> > stem.
> >
> > Tim
> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> > do not archive
> >
> > Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> > > I landed approximately a dozen times on a long, grass strip in
> the Idaho
> > > wilderness and found the AN4-6 bolt shown on page 46-5 figure 2
> sheared
> > > at the cotter pin. This is the AN4 that pokes out of the large
> axel nut
> > > to hold the fairing standoff. The port side failed but the
> starboard MLG
> > > fairing could be wiggled and would soon fail.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > The strip is pocked with small mounds much like a polo field
> before the
> > > divits are replaced. There were no holes, nor did I hit anything,
> nor
> > > did I land hard. The fiberglass fairing is still pristine. What
> caused
> > > the problem is the fairing jiggling up and down during the roll
> out.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Tearing the landing gear down for inspection revealed that the
> current
> > > design will not work over time. I believe the failure begins at
> the 3
> > > U-1008 spacers shown on page 46-4 figure 4. When the fairing
> bounces
> > > about these spacers gall the U-1010L plate and loosen the inboard
> side
> > > of the fairing. Once the inboard side of the fairing begins to
> move
> > > around it has a 5 inch lever arm (U-1004B) from the outboard
> fairing
> > > attachment point that works the AN4 bolt and will shear it at the
> cotter
> > > pin hole. Looking at the sheared bolt endwise the structural area
> is
> > > very small after the cotter hole is drilled and the thread depths
> are
> > > subtracted.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Two items need to be redesigned. The three bolts thru U-1010L
> cannot be
> > > tightened because the tension simply crushes the aluminum
> spacers. The
> > > spacers need to be steel and the joint tightened. I don't
> have a lathe
> >
> > > but do have lots of 4130 tubing .5" OD by .375 ID. I cleaned
> the
> > inside
> > > of the tube with a .375" ream and pressed the aluminum
> spacer inside.
> >
> > > Added a washer between the spacer and the U-1010L and tightened
> it
> > > properly. Now it is much stiffer.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Beefing up the AN4 at the axel nut required much more work. If
> you only
> > > have a hammer then you use a hammer to fix all problems. I
> created a
> > > weldment with a TIG welder but a lathe is the better tool. I used
> the
> > > same steel .5"OD by .375"ID tubing and constructed a
> standoff
> > with an
> > > AN5 stud on one end and an AN4 nut on the other. Drilled out the
> axel
> > > nut for the AN5 and placed the AN5 nut on the inside of the axel
> nut.
> > > Make sure you have clearance when the big cotter pin is inserted
> thru
> > > the axel nut. I am sure there are many more clever approaches but
> this
> > > will work.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > BTW there were several flight test engineers at our camp that
> encouraged
> > > me to fly home from Idaho with one MLG fairing on and the other
> off.
> > > This would be more convenient as my RV-10 was stuffed full of
> camping
> > > equipment and there was no room for another MLG fairing. I duct
> taped
> > > the leg fairings in place and took off. They were right. At
> cruise the
> > > cost was 8 mph and 1/4 bubble of rudder. No handling difference.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bill DeRouchey
> > >
> > > N939SB, flying
> > >
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
> >
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Flying RV-10 Weight |
Hi John
Anotherone for the database thnen.
Ours came in at 1699lbs. On the heavy side, but it did include
everything apart from fuel.
We also had a heavy paint job, with primer, base, airbrush & 2 coats
clear. It also included oil, & spare 1 quart, 1st aid kit, tie downs,
AIP's. The only thing we forgot to include was the canopy cover which
we didn't have at the time.
We have a fairly full panel with HF radio, & lightning. Also Tip
tanks. So not too bad considering. But no air con.
Neil & Sarah
ZK-RVT
On 21/07/2008, at 2:06 AM, John Cox wrote:.
>
> 27 are in my database. That leaves well over 120 not reporting in
> on finished weight.
>
> John Cox
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 5:07 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
> >
>
> Checkoway has a W&B database on his site. Looks like he has 11
> RV-10's in it at the moment. I recommend that anyone the is flying
> and hasn't entered their weight into this to do so. It's a great
> resource and the more data the better.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wab/
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
>
> -10 List,
> Is there a record of flying RV-10's weights anyplace on the
> web? Should I be 30# over Max Gross weight before fluids or paint?
> Ok, ok, it's not that bad....
>
> Robin
> Well... it's getting weighed...
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Neil Colliver
Hometime Ltd
247 Parewanui Road
RD1
Bulls
Tel 06 322 0294
027 322 0264
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: counter sinking canopy holes |
Before you do that, add me to the end of the list, I am coming up on the
canopy and can use it now
Whoever is last let me know who that is and I'll send my information
off-list.
Thanks Lew and John.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: counter sinking canopy holes
>
> Hey Thane,
>
> I sent you an email to the effect that I have been unsuccessful in
> contacting Eric Gohr -- the last person it was sent to. In case there is
> a problem with the email, I have found a phone number and I will try to
> call him today. Maybe at OSH? If anyone has contact with him, let me
> know.
>
> By the way, I haven't heard from John Ackerman - the parent of the
> countersink - so that I can eventually get it back to you.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=193762#193762
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
I'll second the comment on using a drill press and tube holder. I
didn't clamp it down (which would be best) but it easily allows a
squarely drilled hole to be made.
Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> One comment, always drill round tubes and such with a drill press and
> a tube holder. I made a tube holder out of a piece of 2"x6", making
> two 45 degree cuts to make a 'V' using a radial arm saw. The tube
> sits in the 'V'. I added a couple of bolts to hold the jig onto the
> drill press so that the drill bit was in the exact center of the 'V'.
> You can buy an aluminum one from Harbor freight cheap enough as well.
>
>
>
> Be careful not to put too much pressure on the drill bit or it will
> wander off center.
>
>
>
> Carl Froehlich
>
> RV-8A (450 hrs)
>
> RV-10 (fuselage)
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Les Kearney
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 20, 2008 1:17 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> I am glad that I am not the only one who has had the same problem.
> Misery loves company as the saying goes.
>
>
>
> Knowing that I am going to call the House of Van's for more parts
> tomorrow, I decided to do a little experimenting. I will pas this on
> so others can learn from my mistakes.
>
>
>
> * Riveting tubes can be a b^&ch
> * When drilling the holes in the tube, it is important to go down
> the exact centerline of the tube. Being even a little off center
> will cause problems with riveting (slumping). If even slightly
> off center, the rivet head will conform to the radius of the
> tube and you will then be riveting off center.
> * Drilling a pilot all the way through then re-drilling with the
> rod end installed can cause the bottom hole to be a bit off
> center (elongated) if not drilled exactly down the centerline.
> (Dos anyone have any ideas why Van's calls for pilots first and
> then final drilling through the rod ends? It seems like this
> makes the whole process a bit riskier).
> * I found that installing the rod ends could be deceptively
> difficult. What I did on my "test" pieces was:
> o install the first rod end (which was very tight)
> o drilled a pilot through the whole assembly
> o drilled the final #30 hole through the whole assembly
> o cleaned out the chips in the tube and deburred the
> exterior holes
> o back riveted the end on (as suggested by Carl & Dave)
> o repeated for the next hole
> o primed the interior of the tube
> o Installed the second rod end and drilled as above
> o Deburred and riveted
>
>
>
> * I would have liked to deburr the interior side of rod end holes
> but they were just too tight to get off without damaging the
> assembly. Anyway, I can't see how the interior burrs and chips
> would be a factor (is this a reasonable assumption?).
>
>
>
> Dave's comment about going slow is absolutely essential. A series of
> very light tabs is all that is required. To fast and you will be
> adding to your scrap bin. Drilling out slumped rivets was beyond my
> ability.
>
>
>
> In retrospect, I think a second set of eyes to help keep things square
> would be very useful. I was working solo which was probably part of my
> problem as parts orientation is critical when drilling and riveting a
> tube.
>
>
>
> Comments on the above would be appreciated as it will be a while
> before I get my replacement parts.
>
>
>
> BTW, anybody need some slightly undersized rod end tubing?
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643 -- happily turning parts into scrap
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Leikam
> *Sent:* July-20-08 8:15 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
>
>
>
> I experienced the same problem on the same parts. I held the rod with
> the rivet, shop side down squarely over the flat anvil of my bench
> vise and used my rivet gun with the proper set. Go slow. Worked
> well. Squeezer didn't. I think the problem /is/ that the rod is
> hollow and does not support the rivet shank inside.
>
>
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
>
>
>
>
> * *
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
> **
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 11
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| Subject: | Flying RV-10 Weight |
1699 in my database. The paint job is worth every pound. the canopy
cover is removable so it's part of the useful load component.
JC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neil & Sarah
Colliver
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
Hi John
Anotherone for the database thnen.
Ours came in at 1699lbs. On the heavy side, but it did include
everything apart from fuel.
We also had a heavy paint job, with primer, base, airbrush & 2 coats
clear. It also included oil, & spare 1 quart, 1st aid kit, tie downs,
AIP's. The only thing we forgot to include was the canopy cover which
we didn't have at the time.
We have a fairly full panel with HF radio, & lightning. Also Tip
tanks. So not too bad considering. But no air con.
Neil & Sarah
ZK-RVT
On 21/07/2008, at 2:06 AM, John Cox wrote:.
>
> 27 are in my database. That leaves well over 120 not reporting in
> on finished weight.
>
> John Cox
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 5:07 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
<rvbuilder@sausen.net
> >
>
> Checkoway has a W&B database on his site. Looks like he has 11
> RV-10's in it at the moment. I recommend that anyone the is flying
> and hasn't entered their weight into this to do so. It's a great
> resource and the more data the better.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wab/
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
>
> -10 List,
> Is there a record of flying RV-10's weights anyplace on the
> web? Should I be 30# over Max Gross weight before fluids or paint?
> Ok, ok, it's not that bad....
>
> Robin
> Well... it's getting weighed...
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Neil Colliver
Hometime Ltd
247 Parewanui Road
RD1
Bulls
Tel 06 322 0294
027 322 0264
Message 12
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|
I am making the rear seats for my QB fuse. Half the hinges were
fabricated and installed on the floors. Are the matching halves in the
kit somewhere or do I make them from supplied hinge stock? (Can't find
matching halves.)
Anyone? Anyone?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
Message 13
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| Subject: | Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets |
A little late on this thread, but for those who are yet to get to making
the pushrods - I used a similar back riveting technique. But I placed
the universal rivet set in a vice, placed the manufactured head into the
cup of the set, and then used the backrivet set to shoot the shop head.
A bit tricky for one person, but it can be done without too much hassle.
A squeezer simply would not work for me with these rivets either.
cheers,
Ron
187, paint prep
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Sunday, 20 July 2008 11:45 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@% Rivets
I experienced the same problem on the same parts. I held the
rod with the rivet, shop side down squarely over the flat anvil of my
bench vise and used my rivet gun with the proper set. Go slow. Worked
well. Squeezer didn't. I think the problem is that the rod is hollow
and does not support the rivet shank inside.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 12:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@%
Rivets
John
I'll see you at Whitman...
Cheers
Les
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: July-19-08 7:49 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@%
Rivets
I have a Cherry Max depth gauge for you which is used to
size the grip measurement and confirm correct rivet length for any job.
I will send you one if you send me your address.
John J. is correct, in many locations the AN bolt,
fastener or rivet is incorrect on the company plans. By the time you
are out of parts, you will be able to read the correct length and make
certain they comply with the guidelines of the AC 43.13. If your DAR is
any good, he might point out the error of the lengths during the
paperwork review (oh yeh, Canadians don't use DARs). Boy is Rob's new
prop exciting.
Scrapes, bruises and torn knuckles getting the Warbird
ready for the flight next week. Aurora to Missoula to Glendive, MT (on
Thursday) then West Bend, WI (on Friday) with final arrival at the big
one (on Sunday). Bringing a few cases of cold ones for Tim and Bob,
Mike and the stakeout gang.
Without an address, I will bring the gauge direct to RV
Central at OSH. There is nothing like a Wisconsin summer.
John C.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 5:38 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@%
Rivets
Les, are the rivets trying to tell you something? JC
would wonder if they were too long to begin with. Many rivets called
out in the plans are either too short or too long. Up to us to
determine proper size. Rivet cutters are cheap.
Just musing.
John J
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:49 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Squeezing some *&^%*%*&%#@%
Rivets
Hi
It seems like in every major section of the -10
construction, I hit something that causes me no end of grief. This time
it is the rod ends for wings. After trashing one set due to a
measurement error (duh!), I made another perfect set after getting
replacement tubes from Van's. This time when riveting with the
AN470AD4-11 rivets, the rivets seemed to slump to one side. How does one
squeeze these rivets without slumping? Part of the problem may be the
size of the rivets I am trying to squeeze - the -11 rivets are just a
bit to long for my pneumatic squeezer jaws so I have to work at getting
them to come down. I also wonder if the hollow tube affects how the
rivets squeeze.
Is there some magic trick I am missing?
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643 - QB wings, fuse, electrical whatever
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
Steve;
I'll increase my bid to $300
Thanks!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
> Thanks for the bid, you make a good point. lets just run this till, say,
> 9:00 Sunday night eastern time.
> Should be plenty of time to ponder without dragging it out...
> steve
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "pascal" <pascal@rv10builder.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:37 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>>
>> Steve;
>> This is a great offer and I appreciate seeing this, wish I could share of
>> the camaraderie that will once again happen at OSH.
>> Do you have a end of auction time/date?
>> Thanks!
>>
>> To start I bid $200
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:36 PM
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>
>>> <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
>>>
>>> Hey guys,
>>> Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
>>> and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
>>> without
>>> their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a lot
>>> of
>>> their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
>>> handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
>>> toward
>>> the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try to
>>> pay
>>> for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not
>>> camping
>>> (and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
>>> and
>>> the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
>>> "its
>>> for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
>>> You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
>>>
>>> Steve dinieri
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Flying RV-10 Weight |
VH-ICY 1624 pounds
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 12:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
> 27 are in my database. That leaves well over 120 not reporting in on
> finished weight.
>
> John Cox
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 5:07 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Checkoway has a W&B database on his site. Looks like he has 11 RV-10's in
> it at the moment. I recommend that anyone the is flying and hasn't
> entered their weight into this to do so. It's a great resource and the
> more data the better.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wab/
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
>
> -10 List,
> Is there a record of flying RV-10's weights anyplace on the web?
> Should I be 30# over Max Gross weight before fluids or paint? Ok, ok, it's
> not that bad....
>
> Robin
> Well... it's getting weighed...
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
Steve,
I'll bump it up to $320.
Bruce Snyder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
Steve;
I'll increase my bid to $300
Thanks!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
> Thanks for the bid, you make a good point. lets just run this till, say,
> 9:00 Sunday night eastern time.
> Should be plenty of time to ponder without dragging it out...
> steve
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "pascal" <pascal@rv10builder.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:37 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>>
>> Steve;
>> This is a great offer and I appreciate seeing this, wish I could share of
>> the camaraderie that will once again happen at OSH.
>> Do you have a end of auction time/date?
>> Thanks!
>>
>> To start I bid $200
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:36 PM
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>
>>> <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
>>>
>>> Hey guys,
>>> Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
>>> and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
>>> without
>>> their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a lot
>>> of
>>> their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
>>> handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
>>> toward
>>> the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try to
>>> pay
>>> for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not
>>> camping
>>> (and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
>>> and
>>> the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
>>> "its
>>> for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
>>> You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
>>>
>>> Steve dinieri
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
let's make this fun! since it is for a good cause!
$340
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 4:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
> <snyderbd888@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Steve,
>
> I'll bump it up to $320.
>
> Bruce Snyder
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
> Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 7:20 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>
> Steve;
> I'll increase my bid to $300
> Thanks!
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:44 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>>
>> Thanks for the bid, you make a good point. lets just run this till, say,
>> 9:00 Sunday night eastern time.
>> Should be plenty of time to ponder without dragging it out...
>> steve
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "pascal" <pascal@rv10builder.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:37 AM
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>
>>>
>>> Steve;
>>> This is a great offer and I appreciate seeing this, wish I could share
>>> of
>
>>> the camaraderie that will once again happen at OSH.
>>> Do you have a end of auction time/date?
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> To start I bid $200
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:36 PM
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>>
>>>> <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
>>>>
>>>> Hey guys,
>>>> Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
>>>> and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
>>>> without
>>>> their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a
>>>> lot
>
>>>> of
>>>> their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
>>>> handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
>>>> toward
>>>> the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try
>>>> to
>
>>>> pay
>>>> for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not
>>>> camping
>>>> (and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
>>>> and
>>>> the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
>>>> "its
>>>> for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
>>>> You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
>>>>
>>>> Steve dinieri
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
Steve,
I'll bid $350.
Bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Wings
RV-10 #40684
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194035#194035
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
Dang snipers! :D
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rleffler
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 7:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
Steve,
I'll bid $350.
Bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Wings
RV-10 #40684
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194035#194035
Message 20
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| Subject: | Flying RV-10 Weight |
My database showed an earlier post at 1621. I will change it.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris, Susie, Darcy
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
VH-ICY 1624 pounds
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 12:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
> 27 are in my database. That leaves well over 120 not reporting in on
> finished weight.
>
> John Cox
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 5:07 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Checkoway has a W&B database on his site. Looks like he has 11 RV-10's in
> it at the moment. I recommend that anyone the is flying and hasn't
> entered their weight into this to do so. It's a great resource and the
> more data the better.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wab/
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
>
> -10 List,
> Is there a record of flying RV-10's weights anyplace on the web?
> Should I be 30# over Max Gross weight before fluids or paint? Ok, ok, it's
> not that bad....
>
> Robin
> Well... it's getting weighed...
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
great, thanks all
if there's no major objections, lets run this out until tomorrow night 9
pm. we're on a roll . Bruce was the winner at 9 tonight, but I'll agree to
sell him a set at his auction price so we can continue till tomrrow and
round up a few more bucks for the HQ.
steve
--------------------------------------------------
From: "pascal" <pascal@rv10builder.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
> let's make this fun! since it is for a good cause!
> $340
>
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888@sbcglobal.net>
> Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 4:45 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>
>> <snyderbd888@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> Steve,
>>
>> I'll bump it up to $320.
>>
>> Bruce Snyder
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
>> Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 7:20 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>
>>
>> Steve;
>> I'll increase my bid to $300
>> Thanks!
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:44 AM
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>
>>> <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the bid, you make a good point. lets just run this till,
>>> say,
>>> 9:00 Sunday night eastern time.
>>> Should be plenty of time to ponder without dragging it out...
>>> steve
>>>
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "pascal" <pascal@rv10builder.net>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:37 AM
>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Steve;
>>>> This is a great offer and I appreciate seeing this, wish I could share
>>>> of
>>
>>>> the camaraderie that will once again happen at OSH.
>>>> Do you have a end of auction time/date?
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> To start I bid $200
>>>>
>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>> From: "steven dinieri" <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:36 PM
>>>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
>>>>
>>>>> <capsteve@iflyrv10.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> Hey guys,
>>>>> Tim and bob have been both taken on a predominant role in organizing
>>>>> and securing the sites at osh, and I for one am very grateful, for
>>>>> without
>>>>> their effort I'd be camping in the woods:) I know they've invested a
>>>>> lot
>>
>>>>> of
>>>>> their time and money. I'd like to offer up a set of flush billet door
>>>>> handles for "auction" to the highest bidder with the proceeds going
>>>>> toward
>>>>> the osh fund (which they can use at their discretion). We need to try
>>>>> to
>>
>>>>> pay
>>>>> for a common camp site, food, pop, beer,etc. so even if your not
>>>>> camping
>>>>> (and all are welcome to visit) feel free to post a bid for the handles
>>>>> and
>>>>> the highest bidder wins. So if your on the fence, tell your other half
>>>>> "its
>>>>> for a good cause". Lets start off at 100.00$
>>>>> You can see the handles @ Iflyrv10.com
>>>>>
>>>>> Steve dinieri
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | RV-10 HQ Group 2 |
Gary and I are on site for the duration and have "tentatively" staked out group
2. We are a contiguous block 2 rows west of Group 1 at 55th and Lindbergh in
Camp Scholler. There were sites closer however there was heavy rain last night
and a lot of standing water/mud/etc. Gary (he got here first) wisely chose
the high ground! I will post more later, but a few notes of interest:
- Crowd actually appears down a bit from last year. Gary and I commandeered 3
wood picnic tables for use in the HQ area. This would have been unheard of in
prior years. We also have a couple of smaller, regular tables for use.
- mosquitoes are BAD in the late evening. Bring your bug spray and be prepared
to do battle. Brenda had a citronella candle that may have been effective.
- WiFi is not yet functional. There is good RF signal strength and I can "see"
at least a half dozen access points however no actual Internet connection results
yet.
- We have Gary's motor home oriented to provide shade for afternoon gatherings.
Additionally, we have 2 10x10 canopies that we'll set up over the tables tomorrow.
- Susan acquired an industrial coffee maker at a garage sale and brought it along.
Assuming it works, we'll have coffee in the AM for those that don't want
to make the walk over to the camp store!
I will send pictures and GPS coordinates tomorrow.
Bob (and Susan, Gary, and Brenda)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194051#194051
Message 23
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|
I noticed that some RV10 use a higher GW than Vans. What are the pros/cons.
thanks. larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194055#194055
Message 24
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| Subject: | Flying RV-10 Weight |
Well, today was my final weight day. I have almost everything installed.
All I have left is a little bit of headliner and a little paint in the
interior. Weight today, 1698, at 109.22.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 8:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
My database showed an earlier post at 1621. I will change it.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris, Susie,
Darcy
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
VH-ICY 1624 pounds
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 12:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
> 27 are in my database. That leaves well over 120 not reporting in on
> finished weight.
>
> John Cox
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 5:07 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Checkoway has a W&B database on his site. Looks like he has 11 RV-10's in
> it at the moment. I recommend that anyone the is flying and hasn't
> entered their weight into this to do so. It's a great resource and the
> more data the better.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/wab/
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:49 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
>
> -10 List,
> Is there a record of flying RV-10's weights anyplace on the web?
> Should I be 30# over Max Gross weight before fluids or paint? Ok, ok, it's
> not that bad....
>
> Robin
> Well... it's getting weighed...
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Flying RV-10 Weight |
Yes as I have added the tow bar to a fixed point in the baggage area
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 12:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
> My database showed an earlier post at 1621. I will change it.
>
> John Cox
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris, Susie,
> Darcy
> Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 4:22 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
>
> VH-ICY 1624 pounds
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 12:06 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>
>
>>
>> 27 are in my database. That leaves well over 120 not reporting in on
>> finished weight.
>>
>> John Cox
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
>> (Michael Sausen)
>> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 5:07 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>>
>> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>>
>> Checkoway has a W&B database on his site. Looks like he has 11 RV-10's
>> in
>> it at the moment. I recommend that anyone the is flying and hasn't
>> entered their weight into this to do so. It's a great resource and the
>> more data the better.
>>
>> http://www.rvproject.com/wab/
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
>> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 4:49 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Flying RV-10 Weight
>>
>>
>> -10 List,
>> Is there a record of flying RV-10's weights anyplace on the web?
>> Should I be 30# over Max Gross weight before fluids or paint? Ok, ok,
>> it's
>> not that bad....
>>
>> Robin
>> Well... it's getting weighed...
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Fw: non Rv-10 related- radio control video |
For anyone who is into radio controlled, this is a pretty cool video of
the B-29 with the X-1.
http://users.skynet.be/fa926657/files/B29.wmv
This aircraft runs on four chain saw motors. You can just imagine how
much time, effort, skill and money these guys have put into this thing.
Made me think of us builders with our RV-10, not that anyone has
mentioned putting a chain saw engine in their planes .. yet .. but the
time, skill, effort and money does indeed apply to us.
Pascal
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Bracket Mod? |
great idea. have any pictures
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194067#194067
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation |
Wow, this is getting exciting... I am thinking of donating my door
handles and they are already installed & doors fitted. Anything for
charity.
Thanks for all the campsite updates. I am looking forward to meeting
everyone a week from Monday.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rleffler
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 5:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List : rv10 hq donation
Steve,
I'll bid $350.
Bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Wings
RV-10 #40684
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=194035#194035
Message 29
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| Subject: | Flying RV-10 Weight |
Regarding weight mine is going to come in as "portly" due to a lot of extras. We
are at ~1625 before paint and partial interior. In our defense we have the OH
console, O2, Leather, dual 12V to 24V Comm voltage converters (heavy), balanced
wheel pants, double DVD players and the list keeps growing.
My question has to do with weight left to right. I placed the O2 system right of
centerline and the wing servos in the right wing expecting my generous proportions
would be PIC. But the empty weight was 20# greater on the left wheel than
the right. Any thoughts?
Robin
Travel Plans:
San Luis Obispo, LA, Chicago, Arkansas, Chicago, OSH, Kohler, Chicago, LA, San
Luis Obispo, LA.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: non Rv-10 related- radio control video |
Now they should simulate dropping a nuke.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: pascal
To: rv10-list
Sent: Sunday, July 20, 2008 11:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fw: non Rv-10 related- radio control video
For anyone who is into radio controlled, this is a pretty cool video
of the B-29 with the X-1.
http://users.skynet.be/fa926657/files/B29.wmv
This aircraft runs on four chain saw motors. You can just imagine
how much time, effort, skill and money these guys have put into this
thing.
Made me think of us builders with our RV-10, not that anyone has
mentioned putting a chain saw engine in their planes .. yet .. but the
time, skill, effort and money does indeed apply to us.
Pascal
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