Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:25 AM - Re: engine- when to buy (MauleDriver)
2. 06:43 AM - Re: Frickin Perfect Rod Ends (Dave Leikam)
3. 12:16 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Robert Wright)
4. 12:20 PM - epoxy color (Robert Wright)
5. 01:42 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Fred Williams, M.D.)
6. 04:38 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Rene)
7. 05:19 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Fred Williams, M.D.)
8. 05:21 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Lew Gallagher)
9. 05:33 PM - Re: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender (John Cox)
10. 06:13 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (John Cox)
11. 06:33 PM - OSH gathering (gary)
12. 06:49 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Chuck Henry)
13. 06:50 PM - MT Prop Governor Follow-up Report (bcondrey)
14. 06:51 PM - Flap alignment (Lew Gallagher)
15. 07:04 PM - Re: OSH gathering (Dave Leikam)
16. 07:24 PM - Re: Flap alignment (Rene)
17. 10:03 PM - Re: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender (John Ackerman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: engine- when to buy |
I went ahead and pulled the string weeks ago but I was about ready.
My 2 cents... I don't think availability will be a problem in the near
or not so near future. When you lay down the cash, it's on it's way.
That's been my experience with everything so far (except the latest
avionics). When big ticket items are on sale, there's inventory or
excess production capacity behind it and neither is easy to fix.
Can't opine regarding pricing. But you do need some space to store the
thing.
Just got back from Osh - oil prices up? There were not signs of it
there.... "Smoke On" baby!
Bill "MauleDriver" Watson
PS - I found $4.36 a gallon fuel coming and going... not bad.
pascal wrote:
>
> yep, same dilemma.
> Thanks!
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: <rv@thelefflers.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 6:58 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine- when to buy
>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> From: "pascal" <pascal@rv10builder.net>
>>> Date: 2008/08/01 Fri PM 04:51:12 EST
>>> To: "rv10-list" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>> Subject: RV10-List: engine- when to buy
>>>
>>> Looking for insight on when would be a good time to purchase the
>>> engine? Looking to delay as much as possible but lately everything
>>> seems to be coming together and wonder if I should be getting it
>>> soon with the delay in ultimately receiving it.
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Pascal
>>>
>>
>> I've been struggling with the same decision. Especially since
>> Van's/Lycoming announced their most recent sale. I don't need it
>> until the spring, but the debate is whether or not the economy will
>> cause the price to be higher or lower next spring.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Frickin Perfect Rod Ends |
Nice job.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 9:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Frickin Perfect Rod Ends
Hi All
After returning from KOSH and seeing what great RV10s are out there, I
was energized to start building again.To that end, I decided to see if I
could turn my newly received rod end replacement parts into something
usable.
Having some "spare" parts, I did a little riveting experimentation
before trying the real things. Pix P1010016.JPG shows what happens when
you try to put a AN470AD4-11 rivet in a piece of tubing without the rod
end installed. I tried this several times and always got the same
result. It appears that the rod end provides enough structure that the
rivets don't bend too much inside the rod end tube.
As I had already ruined a some installed rod ends, I used these parts
to practise the techniques suggested by Carl and others until I was
certain I could get good results.
Here is what I did to get 4 perfect rod ends:
a.. First I made a V channel holder (see P1010015.JPG) as suggested
by Carl. This I aligned on my drill press so that the drilled would
always go through the centerline of a tube and clamped in place.
b.. Drill the #40 pilot hole with the rod end in place. Care must be
taken to ensure that the rod end does not "wander" out of the tube when
drilling. Prevent this by holding the rod end in place by hand when
drilling. I also clamped the tube in the V channel to ensure it did not
move.
c.. Insert a #40 drill bit in the drilled hole (see P1010019.JPG)
and then drill the next hole. Re-drill this hole with the #30 bit then
rotate and re-drill the first hole #30 - use a #30 drill bit in the
first hole to keep everything aligned.
d.. After a bit of experimenting, I found that if I used a "fence"
(See P100024.JPG) to help align parts, I could easily get great results
using the back riveting method to install the ANAD4704-11 rivets.
e.. P1010023.JPG shows how I aligned the parts for riveting.
f.. I used several very short, light bursts on the rivet gun to get
the results shown in pix P1010026.JPG. The shop heads are round and meet
spec dead on. When riveting keep an eye on how the shop head on the
rivet is moving - you may have to slightly rotate the tube etc if to
keep the the shop head square to the back rivet plate.
Many thanks to those who passed on advice as to how to do these rod
ends. The instructions in the plans are not very specific as to how to
do these rivets. If you mess up - especially in riveting, you will be
going back to the House of Vans for extra parts.
I have a couple of suggestions for those who are doing this for the
first time. DO NOT cut the 21 11/32" rods from the stock. The stock rod
is a few inches longer than required and so there is a little
"forgiveness" available if you have a problem. I suggest installing a
rod end first and then cutting the rod to the required length. You can
waste about 5" before you need to order a new rod. As well, when cutting
the rod, cut it about 1/16" too long and then use a disk sander with a
table to square the end down to the exact length required.
This step seems quite simple in the plans but is deceptively difficult
if you are doing it for the first time. For me, I found it impossible to
drill out the -11 rivets without buggering the piece.
Cheers
Les "some assembly required" Kearney
#40643
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: toner in windshield fairing |
West Marine, epoxy colorant.- Mine had to order black; they seemed to hav
e every color but.- Comes in a small toothpaste-sized tube.- Only takes
a small dribble to turn a fair amount of epoxy black.=0ARob=0A#392=0Afairi
ng sanding and propeller work=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom
: Lew Gallagher <lewgall@charter.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent:
Saturday, August 2, 2008 6:40:06 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: toner in windshi
charter.net>=0A=0AOK, Tim and others.- =0A=0AI really like the idea of co
loring the lower windshield fairing resin black so that it looks good from
inside.- BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown on skimming over fiberg
lass with bondo type materials.- =0A=0ANow then, I've got a good friend w
ho is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I thought I remembered him saying
that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff i
s.- So today I called him and he verified that only less than 10% of tone
r is carbon black.- So now I'm wondering how that affects the bonding qua
lity of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...?- Apparently, Tim, you've h
ad no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much toner to turn it black,
but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about this, and if there's
a source of pure carbon black?=0A=0ALater, - Lew=0A=0A--------=0Anon-pilot
=0Acrazy about building=0ANOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549=0AEngine and FF here
, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic onlin
e here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210=0A
-=- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Drall
==========0A=0A=0A
Message 4
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|
To belabor the point,=0AWest Marine.com, search for WM Part #184796.- Mad
e by Evercoat.- $10 per tube.=0Ahttp://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stor
es/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/13853/377%20710%20987%204294966637/69/Ep
oxy%20/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/10/0?N=377%20710%20987%204
294966637&Ne=69&Ntt=Epoxy%20&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&page=Catego
ryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5000&subdeptNum=4&classNum
=165=0A=0A=0A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: toner in windshield fairing |
Putting the layers on today. With toner. Also using some of the
carbon fiber to replace a couple layers of fiber glass. Making sure the
layer next to the window is carbon fiber. Should give me a nice black
inside without painting the inside of the window.
Fred
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> OK, Tim and others.
>
> I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin black so
that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown on
skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials.
>
> Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I
thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer, plastic,
whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he verified that only
less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm wondering how that affects
the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...? Apparently,
Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much toner to turn
it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about this, and if
there's a source of pure carbon black?
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | toner in windshield fairing |
No expert here, but I don't think you want the carbon fiber to be the first
layer, it would be in contact with the al skin and could cause a corrosion
problem.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
<drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
Putting the layers on today. With toner. Also using some of the
carbon fiber to replace a couple layers of fiber glass. Making sure the
layer next to the window is carbon fiber. Should give me a nice black
inside without painting the inside of the window.
Fred
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> OK, Tim and others.
>
> I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin
black so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who
frown on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials.
>
> Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and
I thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e.
polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he
verified that only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm
wondering how that affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed
with toner ...? Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it
doesn't take much toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone
has thought about this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black?
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: toner in windshield fairing |
Rene'
By the time I had any significant lay up on the window it's about the 4
or 5th layer that really goes up the inside of the glass. I put it high
up and not in contact with the aluminum.
Thanks for the warning.
Fred
Rene wrote:
>
> No expert here, but I don't think you want the carbon fiber to be the first
> layer, it would be in contact with the al skin and could cause a corrosion
> problem.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
> M.D.
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 2:40 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
>
> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>
> Putting the layers on today. With toner. Also using some of the
> carbon fiber to replace a couple layers of fiber glass. Making sure the
> layer next to the window is carbon fiber. Should give me a nice black
> inside without painting the inside of the window.
>
> Fred
>
>
> Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
>>
>> OK, Tim and others.
>>
>> I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin
>>
> black so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who
> frown on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials.
>
>> Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and
>>
> I thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e.
> polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he
> verified that only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm
> wondering how that affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed
> with toner ...? Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it
> doesn't take much toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone
> has thought about this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black?
>
>> Later, - Lew
>>
>> --------
>> non-pilot
>> crazy about building
>> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
>> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: toner in windshield fairing |
Thanks Guys,
If our West Systems dealer here has the black, that's definitely the way to go
with no worries. We'll find out tomorrow.
Carbon same as graphite as a corrosive to aluminum? I dunno, Rene'.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196329#196329
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
Not to attract contrarian comments but the use of metallic scrapers on aluminum
might be best avoided. We regularly complete such tasks with the use of MEK
and plastic scrapers (and barrier gloves). Razor blades and putty knifes are a
quick way to be pointed to the door on air carrier aircraft. Your family members
deserve no less.
FWIW
John C.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 5:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender
Patrick,
By chance, I happen to have done the Van's service bulletin on my RV-7A last weekend
that applies a safety wire to the fuel pickup in each tank. To do this
one has to remove the fuel tank access plates, which are essentially identical
to the ones on the inboard tank rib of the RV-10. I had done a little 'randomized'
experiment by using Van's cork gasket on one side, sealed with ProSeal,
and on the other side I just used ProSeal without any cork gasket, as was recommended
by Gary Sobek, my Tech Counselor at the time. The -7A is a bit over
three years old, and here is what I can report: both the ProSeal-only and the
ProSeal-applied to cork gasket work fine to hold the fuel in the tank with no
leaks. Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since the cork
is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the pieces and the cover
plate pried away and popped loose without much difficulty. The ProSeal only
side was quite a bit more difficult to break loose, !
and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded surfaces most
of the way around the circumference of the cover plate. However, when it came
loose it was somewhat easier to clean up using a razor blade as a scraper combined
with MEK.
So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of future maintenance.
Either way keeps the fuel in the tank.
Hope this helps,
-Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD back from OSH
RV-7A N747DL
Message 10
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| Subject: | toner in windshield fairing |
Carbon Black is a common ingredient in Printing Inks. I will check with
sources from General/Frederick Levy Ink suppliers and others chemical
suppliers and report back.
John C
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 4:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
Lew,
No help for finding pure carbon black, but FWIW I've got almost 3
years
with the toner/resin mix and no ill effects on the canopy.
May sound silly, but how about grinding some charcoal mortar/pestle
style?
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 5:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
OK, Tim and others.
I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin
black
so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who
frown
on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials.
Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark
and I
thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e.
polymer,
plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he verified
that
only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm wondering how
that
affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...?
Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it doesn't take
much
toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought
about
this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210
Message 11
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|
Just got back from OSH and while it is fresh on my and your minds, we would
like some feedback.
We started serving around 6pm (or tried to) when we had the group
gatherings, it was suggested that later would be better for some. Comments?
Are there other changes which would make things better next year?
We have a surplus in the kitty again this year which will allow us to pick
up an extra camp site like we did this year, Thanks all of you.
Any other comments?
A special thanks to Michael Sausen for dropping off a mower for us to use
and for the carport tent and the large grill. These made life better for
all.
Gary Specketer
Message 12
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| Subject: | toner in windshield fairing |
Carbon black is what makes a tire black. It is commonly used in rubber
compounds as a reinforcement. Often stored in aluminum, stainless steel and
steel hoppers and silos. Chemically inert. I would be happy to provide a
fine particle size for your tinting needs if you contact me off line (my
daytime job giving me the chance to participate in my Van's habit). You
will need to wear protective gloves since it is nearly impossible to wash
off the skin or anything else.
Chuck H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 9:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
Carbon Black is a common ingredient in Printing Inks. I will check with
sources from General/Frederick Levy Ink suppliers and others chemical
suppliers and report back.
John C
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 4:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
Lew,
No help for finding pure carbon black, but FWIW I've got almost 3
years
with the toner/resin mix and no ill effects on the canopy.
May sound silly, but how about grinding some charcoal mortar/pestle
style?
Marcus
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 5:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
OK, Tim and others.
I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin
black
so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who
frown
on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials.
Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark
and I
thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e.
polymer,
plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he verified
that
only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm wondering how
that
affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...?
Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it doesn't take
much
toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought
about
this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210
Message 13
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| Subject: | MT Prop Governor Follow-up Report |
A while back I reported an issue with my governor "surging" at certain RPM settings.
It would hold 2300 fine but trying 2500 it would jump up to about 2580/2600.
After research and a call to Van's it turned out to be a known issue with
SOME early revision MT governors. I was referred to MT in Florida, and after
a discussion with them, found out that they too also were aware of this. Fix
is to pull the governor, send it to them and they will modify it to the "F"
level revision. He said that they'd do the modifications and turn it around
in 2 days and that it was covered under warranty.
I was a little surprised when I called them back to get a Return Authorization
number and found out that they didn't use them... I sent the governor to them
insured and with a return receipt on a Thursday. Following Monday I got a call
acknowledging receipt with a couple of questions. Wednesday afternoon of that
same week I got a call from somebody else at MT asking if UPS ground shipping
would be OK!
I returned from OSH today to find my governor waiting for me. Haven't had a chance
to put it back on and try it, but here's the work they did per the 8130-3:
- installed new case hardened pilot valve
- installed new conical speeder spring
- installed new flyweight assembly
- installed new cover
- bench tested
The governor's serial number has also been changed to reflect the "F" level revision.
While it was a hassle to pull the governor, I am very happy with the service that
MT provided. I would have preferred (I think) an exchange so the plane wasn't
down, but this way I get back the same virtually new governor that I started
with. Great company to do business with!
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196345#196345
Message 14
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OK, we aligned the flaps, ailerons, wingtips today. Obviously everything starts
with the flaps in the raised position. But there are adjustments on the flaps,
so how do you know what the correct raised position is? The instructions
for length of the connecting rods are a start, but how do you know when it's perfect?
Not being a pilot, I just stuck a straight edge on the upper surface of the wing
and adjusted the flaps to be on that same plane to get started. But now at
home on the computer, I thought I'd better check since I thought I remembered
reading about slight up angle on trailing edge for both ailerons for speed, etc.
I've searched the archives and Tim's site, and sure enough, I found a reference
by Tim to a -3 degree in the up position of the flaps.
Can someone confirm this for us? With the flaps/ailerons on the same plane as
the upper wing surface, I have both trailing ends of the wingtips about 1/4 inch
above the ailerons. I'm ready to reshape the wingtip ends tomorrow, but they
would be close to being right if there is "up" built into the flap/aileron
position.
The wingtips are also slightly less than 1/4 inch too short -- as opposed to the
early ones that were too long. Is that a problem? It wouldn't take much to
add resin/flox to lengthen them a bit. Heck, everything else is coming together
so fine, I might as well make that right too -- I just need to know what "right"
is!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196346#196346
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: OSH gathering |
My first year staying at OSH was great and I really enjoyed talking with you
Gary and all the other builders. I can now put a face with many names on
this list. You guys and girls did a great job, thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 8:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH gathering
>
> Just got back from OSH and while it is fresh on my and your minds, we
> would
> like some feedback.
>
> We started serving around 6pm (or tried to) when we had the group
> gatherings, it was suggested that later would be better for some.
> Comments?
>
> Are there other changes which would make things better next year?
>
> We have a surplus in the kitty again this year which will allow us to pick
> up an extra camp site like we did this year, Thanks all of you.
>
> Any other comments?
>
> A special thanks to Michael Sausen for dropping off a mower for us to use
> and for the carport tent and the large grill. These made life better for
> all.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
>
>
Message 16
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I did my wing tips while my wings were on the stand and just put the flaps
all the way up to the stops, then aligned the aileron...then the wing tip.
When I put the wings on the airplane and when I did the final alignment, I
pulled the flaps all the way up and then did the final rigging of the
aileron. Early in the flight testing I had a heavy left wing and in an
effort to figure out where it was coming from, I checked the position of the
flaps in the "up" position, 3 degree reflex. I noted that the right flap
was not all the way in the reflex position. I fixed that, and my heavy left
wing is all but gone.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 7:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap alignment
OK, we aligned the flaps, ailerons, wingtips today. Obviously everything
starts with the flaps in the raised position. But there are adjustments on
the flaps, so how do you know what the correct raised position is? The
instructions for length of the connecting rods are a start, but how do you
know when it's perfect?
Not being a pilot, I just stuck a straight edge on the upper surface of the
wing and adjusted the flaps to be on that same plane to get started. But
now at home on the computer, I thought I'd better check since I thought I
remembered reading about slight up angle on trailing edge for both ailerons
for speed, etc.
I've searched the archives and Tim's site, and sure enough, I found a
reference by Tim to a -3 degree in the up position of the flaps.
Can someone confirm this for us? With the flaps/ailerons on the same plane
as the upper wing surface, I have both trailing ends of the wingtips about
1/4 inch above the ailerons. I'm ready to reshape the wingtip ends
tomorrow, but they would be close to being right if there is "up" built into
the flap/aileron position.
The wingtips are also slightly less than 1/4 inch too short -- as opposed to
the early ones that were too long. Is that a problem? It wouldn't take
much to add resin/flox to lengthen them a bit. Heck, everything else is
coming together so fine, I might as well make that right too -- I just need
to know what "right" is!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196346#196346
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender |
John, what is the reason given for no metallic scrapers? Crack
initiation? Accidental cuts and gouges?
What do you do if you need something very thin as Dan did (see below)?
John Ackerman 40458
On Aug 3, 2008, at 5:25 PM, John Cox wrote:
>
> Not to attract contrarian comments but the use of metallic scrapers
> on aluminum might be best avoided. We regularly complete such tasks
> with the use of MEK and plastic scrapers (and barrier gloves). Razor
> blades and putty knifes are a quick way to be pointed to the door on
> air carrier aircraft. Your family members deserve no less.
>
>> . Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since
>> the cork is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the
>> pieces and the cover plate pried away and popped loose without much
>> difficulty. The ProSeal only side was quite a bit more difficult
>> to break loose, !
>> and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded
>> surfaces most of the way around the circumference of the cover
>> plate. However, when it came loose it was somewhat easier to clean
>> up using a razor blade as a scraper combined with MEK.
>>
>> So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of
>> future maintenance. Either way keeps the fuel in the tank.
>>
>> Hope this helps,
>> -Dan Masys
>> RV-10 N104LD back from OSH
>> RV-7A N747DL
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