---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 08/03/08: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:25 AM - Re: engine- when to buy (MauleDriver) 2. 06:43 AM - Re: Frickin Perfect Rod Ends (Dave Leikam) 3. 12:16 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Robert Wright) 4. 12:20 PM - epoxy color (Robert Wright) 5. 01:42 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Fred Williams, M.D.) 6. 04:38 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Rene) 7. 05:19 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Fred Williams, M.D.) 8. 05:21 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Lew Gallagher) 9. 05:33 PM - Re: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender (John Cox) 10. 06:13 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (John Cox) 11. 06:33 PM - OSH gathering (gary) 12. 06:49 PM - Re: toner in windshield fairing (Chuck Henry) 13. 06:50 PM - MT Prop Governor Follow-up Report (bcondrey) 14. 06:51 PM - Flap alignment (Lew Gallagher) 15. 07:04 PM - Re: OSH gathering (Dave Leikam) 16. 07:24 PM - Re: Flap alignment (Rene) 17. 10:03 PM - Re: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender (John Ackerman) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:25:05 AM PST US From: MauleDriver Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine- when to buy I went ahead and pulled the string weeks ago but I was about ready. My 2 cents... I don't think availability will be a problem in the near or not so near future. When you lay down the cash, it's on it's way. That's been my experience with everything so far (except the latest avionics). When big ticket items are on sale, there's inventory or excess production capacity behind it and neither is easy to fix. Can't opine regarding pricing. But you do need some space to store the thing. Just got back from Osh - oil prices up? There were not signs of it there.... "Smoke On" baby! Bill "MauleDriver" Watson PS - I found $4.36 a gallon fuel coming and going... not bad. pascal wrote: > > yep, same dilemma. > Thanks! > Pascal > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: > Sent: Friday, August 01, 2008 6:58 PM > To: > Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine- when to buy > >> >> >>> >>> From: "pascal" >>> Date: 2008/08/01 Fri PM 04:51:12 EST >>> To: "rv10-list" >>> Subject: RV10-List: engine- when to buy >>> >>> Looking for insight on when would be a good time to purchase the >>> engine? Looking to delay as much as possible but lately everything >>> seems to be coming together and wonder if I should be getting it >>> soon with the delay in ultimately receiving it. >>> Thanks! >>> >>> Pascal >>> >> >> I've been struggling with the same decision. Especially since >> Van's/Lycoming announced their most recent sale. I don't need it >> until the spring, but the debate is whether or not the economy will >> cause the price to be higher or lower next spring. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:43:42 AM PST US From: "Dave Leikam" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Frickin Perfect Rod Ends Nice job. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Kearney To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 9:49 PM Subject: RV10-List: Frickin Perfect Rod Ends Hi All After returning from KOSH and seeing what great RV10s are out there, I was energized to start building again.To that end, I decided to see if I could turn my newly received rod end replacement parts into something usable. Having some "spare" parts, I did a little riveting experimentation before trying the real things. Pix P1010016.JPG shows what happens when you try to put a AN470AD4-11 rivet in a piece of tubing without the rod end installed. I tried this several times and always got the same result. It appears that the rod end provides enough structure that the rivets don't bend too much inside the rod end tube. As I had already ruined a some installed rod ends, I used these parts to practise the techniques suggested by Carl and others until I was certain I could get good results. Here is what I did to get 4 perfect rod ends: a.. First I made a V channel holder (see P1010015.JPG) as suggested by Carl. This I aligned on my drill press so that the drilled would always go through the centerline of a tube and clamped in place. b.. Drill the #40 pilot hole with the rod end in place. Care must be taken to ensure that the rod end does not "wander" out of the tube when drilling. Prevent this by holding the rod end in place by hand when drilling. I also clamped the tube in the V channel to ensure it did not move. c.. Insert a #40 drill bit in the drilled hole (see P1010019.JPG) and then drill the next hole. Re-drill this hole with the #30 bit then rotate and re-drill the first hole #30 - use a #30 drill bit in the first hole to keep everything aligned. d.. After a bit of experimenting, I found that if I used a "fence" (See P100024.JPG) to help align parts, I could easily get great results using the back riveting method to install the ANAD4704-11 rivets. e.. P1010023.JPG shows how I aligned the parts for riveting. f.. I used several very short, light bursts on the rivet gun to get the results shown in pix P1010026.JPG. The shop heads are round and meet spec dead on. When riveting keep an eye on how the shop head on the rivet is moving - you may have to slightly rotate the tube etc if to keep the the shop head square to the back rivet plate. Many thanks to those who passed on advice as to how to do these rod ends. The instructions in the plans are not very specific as to how to do these rivets. If you mess up - especially in riveting, you will be going back to the House of Vans for extra parts. I have a couple of suggestions for those who are doing this for the first time. DO NOT cut the 21 11/32" rods from the stock. The stock rod is a few inches longer than required and so there is a little "forgiveness" available if you have a problem. I suggest installing a rod end first and then cutting the rod to the required length. You can waste about 5" before you need to order a new rod. As well, when cutting the rod, cut it about 1/16" too long and then use a disk sander with a table to square the end down to the exact length required. This step seems quite simple in the plans but is deceptively difficult if you are doing it for the first time. For me, I found it impossible to drill out the -11 rivets without buggering the piece. Cheers Les "some assembly required" Kearney #40643 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 12:16:34 PM PST US From: Robert Wright Subject: Re: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing West Marine, epoxy colorant.- Mine had to order black; they seemed to hav e every color but.- Comes in a small toothpaste-sized tube.- Only takes a small dribble to turn a fair amount of epoxy black.=0ARob=0A#392=0Afairi ng sanding and propeller work=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom : Lew Gallagher =0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, August 2, 2008 6:40:06 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: toner in windshi charter.net>=0A=0AOK, Tim and others.- =0A=0AI really like the idea of co loring the lower windshield fairing resin black so that it looks good from inside.- BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown on skimming over fiberg lass with bondo type materials.- =0A=0ANow then, I've got a good friend w ho is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff i s.- So today I called him and he verified that only less than 10% of tone r is carbon black.- So now I'm wondering how that affects the bonding qua lity of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...?- Apparently, Tim, you've h ad no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black?=0A=0ALater, - Lew=0A=0A--------=0Anon-pilot =0Acrazy about building=0ANOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549=0AEngine and FF here , now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic onlin e here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210=0A -=- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Drall ==========0A=0A=0A ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 12:20:35 PM PST US From: Robert Wright Subject: RV10-List: epoxy color To belabor the point,=0AWest Marine.com, search for WM Part #184796.- Mad e by Evercoat.- $10 per tube.=0Ahttp://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stor es/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/13853/377%20710%20987%204294966637/69/Ep oxy%20/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/10/0?N=377%20710%20987%204 294966637&Ne=69&Ntt=Epoxy%20&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&page=Catego ryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5000&subdeptNum=4&classNum =165=0A=0A=0A ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:42:51 PM PST US From: "Fred Williams, M.D." Subject: Re: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing Putting the layers on today. With toner. Also using some of the carbon fiber to replace a couple layers of fiber glass. Making sure the layer next to the window is carbon fiber. Should give me a nice black inside without painting the inside of the window. Fred Lew Gallagher wrote: > > OK, Tim and others. > > I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin black so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials. > > Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he verified that only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm wondering how that affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...? Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black? > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210 > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 04:38:29 PM PST US From: "Rene" Subject: RE: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing No expert here, but I don't think you want the carbon fiber to be the first layer, it would be in contact with the al skin and could cause a corrosion problem. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams, M.D. Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 2:40 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing Putting the layers on today. With toner. Also using some of the carbon fiber to replace a couple layers of fiber glass. Making sure the layer next to the window is carbon fiber. Should give me a nice black inside without painting the inside of the window. Fred Lew Gallagher wrote: > > OK, Tim and others. > > I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin black so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials. > > Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he verified that only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm wondering how that affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...? Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black? > > Later, - Lew > > -------- > non-pilot > crazy about building > NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 > Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210 > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:19:12 PM PST US From: "Fred Williams, M.D." Subject: Re: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing Rene' By the time I had any significant lay up on the window it's about the 4 or 5th layer that really goes up the inside of the glass. I put it high up and not in contact with the aluminum. Thanks for the warning. Fred Rene wrote: > > No expert here, but I don't think you want the carbon fiber to be the first > layer, it would be in contact with the al skin and could cause a corrosion > problem. > > Rene' > 801-721-6080 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams, > M.D. > Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 2:40 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing > > > > Putting the layers on today. With toner. Also using some of the > carbon fiber to replace a couple layers of fiber glass. Making sure the > layer next to the window is carbon fiber. Should give me a nice black > inside without painting the inside of the window. > > Fred > > > Lew Gallagher wrote: > >> >> OK, Tim and others. >> >> I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin >> > black so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who > frown on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials. > >> Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and >> > I thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e. > polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he > verified that only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm > wondering how that affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed > with toner ...? Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it > doesn't take much toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone > has thought about this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black? > >> Later, - Lew >> >> -------- >> non-pilot >> crazy about building >> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 >> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:21:45 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: toner in windshield fairing From: "Lew Gallagher" Thanks Guys, If our West Systems dealer here has the black, that's definitely the way to go with no worries. We'll find out tomorrow. Carbon same as graphite as a corrosive to aluminum? I dunno, Rene'. Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196329#196329 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 05:33:37 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender From: "John Cox" Not to attract contrarian comments but the use of metallic scrapers on aluminum might be best avoided. We regularly complete such tasks with the use of MEK and plastic scrapers (and barrier gloves). Razor blades and putty knifes are a quick way to be pointed to the door on air carrier aircraft. Your family members deserve no less. FWIW John C. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 5:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender Patrick, By chance, I happen to have done the Van's service bulletin on my RV-7A last weekend that applies a safety wire to the fuel pickup in each tank. To do this one has to remove the fuel tank access plates, which are essentially identical to the ones on the inboard tank rib of the RV-10. I had done a little 'randomized' experiment by using Van's cork gasket on one side, sealed with ProSeal, and on the other side I just used ProSeal without any cork gasket, as was recommended by Gary Sobek, my Tech Counselor at the time. The -7A is a bit over three years old, and here is what I can report: both the ProSeal-only and the ProSeal-applied to cork gasket work fine to hold the fuel in the tank with no leaks. Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since the cork is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the pieces and the cover plate pried away and popped loose without much difficulty. The ProSeal only side was quite a bit more difficult to break loose, ! and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded surfaces most of the way around the circumference of the cover plate. However, when it came loose it was somewhat easier to clean up using a razor blade as a scraper combined with MEK. So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of future maintenance. Either way keeps the fuel in the tank. Hope this helps, -Dan Masys RV-10 N104LD back from OSH RV-7A N747DL ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:13:17 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing From: "John Cox" Carbon Black is a common ingredient in Printing Inks. I will check with sources from General/Frederick Levy Ink suppliers and others chemical suppliers and report back. John C -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 4:55 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing Lew, No help for finding pure carbon black, but FWIW I've got almost 3 years with the toner/resin mix and no ill effects on the canopy. May sound silly, but how about grinding some charcoal mortar/pestle style? Marcus Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 5:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing OK, Tim and others. I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin black so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials. Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he verified that only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm wondering how that affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...? Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:33:23 PM PST US From: "gary" Subject: RV10-List: OSH gathering Just got back from OSH and while it is fresh on my and your minds, we would like some feedback. We started serving around 6pm (or tried to) when we had the group gatherings, it was suggested that later would be better for some. Comments? Are there other changes which would make things better next year? We have a surplus in the kitty again this year which will allow us to pick up an extra camp site like we did this year, Thanks all of you. Any other comments? A special thanks to Michael Sausen for dropping off a mower for us to use and for the carport tent and the large grill. These made life better for all. Gary Specketer ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 06:49:01 PM PST US From: "Chuck Henry" Subject: RE: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing Carbon black is what makes a tire black. It is commonly used in rubber compounds as a reinforcement. Often stored in aluminum, stainless steel and steel hoppers and silos. Chemically inert. I would be happy to provide a fine particle size for your tinting needs if you contact me off line (my daytime job giving me the chance to participate in my Van's habit). You will need to wear protective gloves since it is nearly impossible to wash off the skin or anything else. Chuck H -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 9:07 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing Carbon Black is a common ingredient in Printing Inks. I will check with sources from General/Frederick Levy Ink suppliers and others chemical suppliers and report back. John C -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 4:55 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing Lew, No help for finding pure carbon black, but FWIW I've got almost 3 years with the toner/resin mix and no ill effects on the canopy. May sound silly, but how about grinding some charcoal mortar/pestle style? Marcus Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2008 5:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing OK, Tim and others. I really like the idea of coloring the lower windshield fairing resin black so that it looks good from inside. BUT, I've taken to heart those who frown on skimming over fiberglass with bondo type materials. Now then, I've got a good friend who is in charge of toner for Lexmark and I thought I remembered him saying that most of toner is styrene, i.e. polymer, plastic, whatever that stuff is. So today I called him and he verified that only less than 10% of toner is carbon black. So now I'm wondering how that affects the bonding quality of fiberglass resin mixed with toner ...? Apparently, Tim, you've had no ill effects and you said it doesn't take much toner to turn it black, but I was just wondering if anyone has thought about this, and if there's a source of pure carbon black? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196210#196210 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 06:50:32 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: MT Prop Governor Follow-up Report From: "bcondrey" A while back I reported an issue with my governor "surging" at certain RPM settings. It would hold 2300 fine but trying 2500 it would jump up to about 2580/2600. After research and a call to Van's it turned out to be a known issue with SOME early revision MT governors. I was referred to MT in Florida, and after a discussion with them, found out that they too also were aware of this. Fix is to pull the governor, send it to them and they will modify it to the "F" level revision. He said that they'd do the modifications and turn it around in 2 days and that it was covered under warranty. I was a little surprised when I called them back to get a Return Authorization number and found out that they didn't use them... I sent the governor to them insured and with a return receipt on a Thursday. Following Monday I got a call acknowledging receipt with a couple of questions. Wednesday afternoon of that same week I got a call from somebody else at MT asking if UPS ground shipping would be OK! I returned from OSH today to find my governor waiting for me. Haven't had a chance to put it back on and try it, but here's the work they did per the 8130-3: - installed new case hardened pilot valve - installed new conical speeder spring - installed new flyweight assembly - installed new cover - bench tested The governor's serial number has also been changed to reflect the "F" level revision. While it was a hassle to pull the governor, I am very happy with the service that MT provided. I would have preferred (I think) an exchange so the plane wasn't down, but this way I get back the same virtually new governor that I started with. Great company to do business with! Bob RV-10 N442PM Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196345#196345 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 06:51:59 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Flap alignment From: "Lew Gallagher" OK, we aligned the flaps, ailerons, wingtips today. Obviously everything starts with the flaps in the raised position. But there are adjustments on the flaps, so how do you know what the correct raised position is? The instructions for length of the connecting rods are a start, but how do you know when it's perfect? Not being a pilot, I just stuck a straight edge on the upper surface of the wing and adjusted the flaps to be on that same plane to get started. But now at home on the computer, I thought I'd better check since I thought I remembered reading about slight up angle on trailing edge for both ailerons for speed, etc. I've searched the archives and Tim's site, and sure enough, I found a reference by Tim to a -3 degree in the up position of the flaps. Can someone confirm this for us? With the flaps/ailerons on the same plane as the upper wing surface, I have both trailing ends of the wingtips about 1/4 inch above the ailerons. I'm ready to reshape the wingtip ends tomorrow, but they would be close to being right if there is "up" built into the flap/aileron position. The wingtips are also slightly less than 1/4 inch too short -- as opposed to the early ones that were too long. Is that a problem? It wouldn't take much to add resin/flox to lengthen them a bit. Heck, everything else is coming together so fine, I might as well make that right too -- I just need to know what "right" is! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196346#196346 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:04:58 PM PST US From: "Dave Leikam" Subject: Re: RV10-List: OSH gathering My first year staying at OSH was great and I really enjoyed talking with you Gary and all the other builders. I can now put a face with many names on this list. You guys and girls did a great job, thanks. Dave Leikam RV-10 #40496 N89DA (Reserved) Muskego, WI do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "gary" Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 8:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: OSH gathering > > Just got back from OSH and while it is fresh on my and your minds, we > would > like some feedback. > > We started serving around 6pm (or tried to) when we had the group > gatherings, it was suggested that later would be better for some. > Comments? > > Are there other changes which would make things better next year? > > We have a surplus in the kitty again this year which will allow us to pick > up an extra camp site like we did this year, Thanks all of you. > > Any other comments? > > A special thanks to Michael Sausen for dropping off a mower for us to use > and for the carport tent and the large grill. These made life better for > all. > > Gary Specketer > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:24:42 PM PST US From: "Rene" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap alignment I did my wing tips while my wings were on the stand and just put the flaps all the way up to the stops, then aligned the aileron...then the wing tip. When I put the wings on the airplane and when I did the final alignment, I pulled the flaps all the way up and then did the final rigging of the aileron. Early in the flight testing I had a heavy left wing and in an effort to figure out where it was coming from, I checked the position of the flaps in the "up" position, 3 degree reflex. I noted that the right flap was not all the way in the reflex position. I fixed that, and my heavy left wing is all but gone. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lew Gallagher Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 7:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Flap alignment OK, we aligned the flaps, ailerons, wingtips today. Obviously everything starts with the flaps in the raised position. But there are adjustments on the flaps, so how do you know what the correct raised position is? The instructions for length of the connecting rods are a start, but how do you know when it's perfect? Not being a pilot, I just stuck a straight edge on the upper surface of the wing and adjusted the flaps to be on that same plane to get started. But now at home on the computer, I thought I'd better check since I thought I remembered reading about slight up angle on trailing edge for both ailerons for speed, etc. I've searched the archives and Tim's site, and sure enough, I found a reference by Tim to a -3 degree in the up position of the flaps. Can someone confirm this for us? With the flaps/ailerons on the same plane as the upper wing surface, I have both trailing ends of the wingtips about 1/4 inch above the ailerons. I'm ready to reshape the wingtip ends tomorrow, but they would be close to being right if there is "up" built into the flap/aileron position. The wingtips are also slightly less than 1/4 inch too short -- as opposed to the early ones that were too long. Is that a problem? It wouldn't take much to add resin/flox to lengthen them a bit. Heck, everything else is coming together so fine, I might as well make that right too -- I just need to know what "right" is! Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=196346#196346 ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 10:03:28 PM PST US From: John Ackerman Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Leak Proofing the Fuel Sender John, what is the reason given for no metallic scrapers? Crack initiation? Accidental cuts and gouges? What do you do if you need something very thin as Dan did (see below)? John Ackerman 40458 On Aug 3, 2008, at 5:25 PM, John Cox wrote: > > Not to attract contrarian comments but the use of metallic scrapers > on aluminum might be best avoided. We regularly complete such tasks > with the use of MEK and plastic scrapers (and barrier gloves). Razor > blades and putty knifes are a quick way to be pointed to the door on > air carrier aircraft. Your family members deserve no less. > >> . Removing the side with the cork gasket was much easier, since >> the cork is soft and a putty knife can be slipped in between the >> pieces and the cover plate pried away and popped loose without much >> difficulty. The ProSeal only side was quite a bit more difficult >> to break loose, ! >> and required sliding a single edge razor blade between the bonded >> surfaces most of the way around the circumference of the cover >> plate. However, when it came loose it was somewhat easier to clean >> up using a razor blade as a scraper combined with MEK. >> >> So the decision to use a gasket or not really comes down to ease of >> future maintenance. Either way keeps the fuel in the tank. >> >> Hope this helps, >> -Dan Masys >> RV-10 N104LD back from OSH >> RV-7A N747DL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.