Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:18 AM - Re: Re: Car Radio output to headphones (PJ Seipel)
2. 06:19 AM - Re: door lock size requirement (Jesse Saint)
3. 06:45 AM - Re: Re: Car Radio output to headphones (Tim Olson)
4. 06:51 AM - Re: WARNING: Epoxy filler (Tim Olson)
5. 08:29 AM - Re: door lock size requirement (Doug Preston)
6. 09:35 AM - Re: Re: Car Radio output to headphones (Scott Schmidt)
7. 09:40 AM - Re: Re: Car Radio output to headphones (sean garrison)
8. 10:46 AM - Re: Car Radio output to headphones (greghale)
9. 11:27 AM - Rudder: Oil canning (Dennis Keller)
10. 11:42 AM - Re: Rudder: Oil canning (bruce breckenridge)
11. 12:08 PM - Re: Fuel Tank lables (gary)
12. 12:33 PM - Re: Re: Car Radio output to headphones (PJ Seipel)
13. 12:49 PM - Re: Re: Car Radio output to headphones (Tim Olson)
14. 01:34 PM - Re: Re: Car Radio output to headphones (Jesse Saint)
15. 02:48 PM - Re: door lock size requirement (Roger Standley)
16. 03:03 PM - Re: Re: Car Radio output to headphones (John Testement)
17. 04:31 PM - Reflections on Rudder Trim (Dave Fritzsche (Building))
18. 06:06 PM - Re: door lock size requirement (Doug Preston)
19. 06:23 PM - yikes! Subpanel cutouts (Jay Brinkmeyer)
20. 06:50 PM - Re: door lock size requirement (Jesse Saint)
21. 06:55 PM - Re: yikes! Subpanel cutouts (Jesse Saint)
22. 07:41 PM - Re: door lock size requirement (Roger Standley)
23. 08:21 PM - Re: door lock size requirement (Jesse Saint)
24. 08:39 PM - OSH RV10 HQ mug shots (Deems Davis)
25. 08:48 PM - Re: OSH RV10 HQ mug shots (Rick Sked)
26. 09:07 PM - Re: door lock size requirement (dmaib@mac.com)
27. 09:07 PM - Re: door lock size requirement (pascal)
28. 10:59 PM - Re: Reflections on Rudder Trim (Chris, Susie, Darcy)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Car Radio output to headphones |
Leave the speaker connector disconnected and use the line-out front
L/R. Connect those to the stereo input on your intercom and then set
the Valor's fade to front speakers only. That's what I did for mine and
it seems to work fine.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
greghale wrote:
>
> I found the wiring diagram for the Valor 702W. Any ideas on what I can do or
use?
>
> http://www.valordvd.com/FileForDownload/InstallingGuide/ITS-702WInstallingGuide.pdf
>
> I really appreciate the comments and help.
>
> Greg...
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv8/rv10
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198313#198313
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: door lock size requirement |
Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks and
one of them can be used for the door.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote:
> Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage
> door would also work on the canopy doors? I don=92t know the if space
> between the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock
> since I don=92t have the doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks.
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Car Radio output to headphones |
That idea seems that it should work ok, but I have a
question about that. They have line out for the subwoofer.
Won't you lose all the low low's if you just take the
Front L/R? It seems like they're missing one simple
wire connection.....plain old Line-out audio.
It may be that to really get all the sound quality you'd
want, you would have to add another intermediate device
to mix those signals back together.
I don't know the answer, but I do know that like others
said, you definitely don't want to tie the speaker
outputs to the audio panel. You also won't need to
use the remote amp for this whole system.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
PJ Seipel wrote:
>
> Leave the speaker connector disconnected and use the line-out front
> L/R. Connect those to the stereo input on your intercom and then set
> the Valor's fade to front speakers only. That's what I did for mine and
> it seems to work fine.
>
> PJ Seipel
> RV-10 #40032
>
> greghale wrote:
>>
>> I found the wiring diagram for the Valor 702W. Any ideas on what I
>> can do or use?
>>
>> http://www.valordvd.com/FileForDownload/InstallingGuide/ITS-702WInstallingGuide.pdf
>>
>>
>> I really appreciate the comments and help.
>>
>> Greg...
>>
>> --------
>> Greg Hale rv8/rv10
>> www.nwacaptain.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198313#198313
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: WARNING: Epoxy filler |
Definitely good advice not to use it under dark paint. I only have
white paint, with no bad effects at all. I would extend the
advice a bit further even though and recommend that if someone
is going to go with dark paint, avoid the dark paint on the
cabin top and any of the glass areas that get that direct sun.
And, probably best to avoid it on the fuel tanks as well, just
to keep that fuel from getting as hot. Those that have been
on the list for years may remember some testing that was done
that showed the temperatures achieved with various colors of
paint, and darker paints got significantly warmer...and heat
doesn't go well with anything that expands a terrible amount.
That's part of why you see so many white or white on top/color
on bottom type paint schemes.
I've got the 410 all over the place on elevator tip fairings,
rudder tip fairings, the seam below the cabin top, and places
like that. But, I have white paint in those places.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
James, Peter [SD] wrote:
> Hey kids,
>
>
>
> I was just catching up on old DIGEST messagesand thought I needed to
> post in regard to the message below.
>
>
>
> I am using the West Systems Epoxy like mostbut be warned about the 410
> filler. It doesnt say it on the Aircraft Spruce site, nor in their
> catalog, but you cant use this filler under dark colored paint.
> Apparently its not good to let the stuff heat up and expand. I dont
> know the exact details of what the 410 filler is comprised of..but on
> the WESTMARINE.COM site, it warns against it.
>
>
>
> The ideal low-density filler for creating a light, easily-worked fairing
> compound especially suited for fairing large areas. Microlight mixes
> with greater ease than #407 Low-Density filler or microballoons and is
> approximately 30% easier to sand.
>
> Feathers to a fine edge and is also more economical for large
> fairing jobs.
>
> *Not recommended under dark paint. *
>
> *Not recommended on surfaces subjected to high temperatures. *
>
> Cures to a tan color.
>
>
>
> I am concerned that it will expand and POP, thus, I am not using 410
> filler on anything. I spoke with another builder at Osh that thought it
> had plastic content. Again, I have not verified this. Do some
> homework before you put this out in the sun on the tarmac. Especially
> if under dark paint or stripes.
>
>
>
> I am using the high density filler for its adhesive and structural
> qualities, and just ordered the 406 filler last night to try out. I
> have micro-balloons, Chopped Glass, cotton flox in my shop. I agree
> that the West fillers are the best and easiest to work with and so I
> will stick with them.
>
>
>
> Pete #40100
>
>
>
> Time: 05:27:58 PM PST US
>
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: toner in windshield fairing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> They have a variety:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/options.html
>
>
>
> http://www.westsystem.com/
>
> Go to the product guide
>
>
>
> 410 Microlight is just one of the things you'll use tons of.
>
> Great stuff, sands well. The guy who helped paint was impressed as heck
> with it.
>
>
>
> 406 Colloidal silica is another one you'll use, along with one other
> that I can't remember right now.
>
>
>
> You'll go through cans and cans of 410 by the time you're done with the
> project, and gallons of epoxy. People have no idea how much you can
> spend on epoxy supplies to finish the kit...it's hundreds of dollars.
>
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: door lock size requirement |
If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us details and
photos.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>wrote:
> Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks and one
> of them can be used for the door.
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage door
> would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if space between the
> exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock since I don't have the
> doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks.
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
>
> *
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Car Radio output to headphones |
That should work just fine and that is how I have mine hooked up as well.
Like others have mentioned, not sure if you can mix the bass into the output as
well. You may want to call the Garmin or PS Engineering guys that question.
Here is something I found on the PS Engineering website.
Like it mentions, if you don't have the low level output and only speaker outputs,
you can buy the PL2 I have linked below.
So, what song will played first after or during that first flight?
Can
I use my 200W AIWA Car Stereo?
Sure. Just don't hook the speaker output directly
to the intercom. It will fail.
The
PS Engineering intercoms are designed to accept a low-level ( less than 3 V P-P)
audio signal, like the ones provided by portable devises. Car
stereo headphone amplifiers are not referenced to ground, and our intercoms are,
so the moment power is turned on, the output amplifier will try its darndest to
find ground, even if it has to let the smoke out of components.
We
recommend using a "Line Level" output from the car stereo. This is the one
usually used for power amplifiers, equalizers and other add-ons. Again, the
signals on this line vary widely between the brands and model.
IF
your automotive stereo does not have a "line out" there is an adapter
available from Crutchfield . Called the
PowerLinkII (PL2) this connects between the stereo and the intercom. It provides
the proper levels and can be adjusted to suit your needs. Naturally,
the ideal solution is our PCD7100, which is
FAA-approved and designed to work in airplanes.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-K9I5Jr0Z26g/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?I=101pl2&search=PL2
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:17:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
Leave the speaker connector disconnected and use the line-out front
L/R. Connect those to the stereo input on your intercom and then set
the Valor's fade to front speakers only. That's what I did for mine and
it seems to work fine.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
greghale wrote:
>
> I found the wiring diagram for the Valor 702W. Any ideas on what I can do or
use?
>
> http://www.valordvd.com/FileForDownload/InstallingGuide/ITS-702WInstallingGuide.pdf
>
> I really appreciate the comments and help.
>
> Greg...
>
> --------
> Greg Hale rv8/rv10
> www.nwacaptain.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198313#198313
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Car Radio output to headphones |
You can disable it in set of hardware(Radio)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Car Radio output to headphones
That idea seems that it should work ok, but I have a
question about that. They have line out for the subwoofer.
Won't you lose all the low low's if you just take the
Front L/R? It seems like they're missing one simple
wire connection.....plain old Line-out audio.
It may be that to really get all the sound quality you'd
want, you would have to add another intermediate device
to mix those signals back together.
I don't know the answer, but I do know that like others
said, you definitely don't want to tie the speaker
outputs to the audio panel. You also won't need to
use the remote amp for this whole system.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
PJ Seipel wrote:
>
> Leave the speaker connector disconnected and use the line-out front
> L/R. Connect those to the stereo input on your intercom and then set
> the Valor's fade to front speakers only. That's what I did for mine and
> it seems to work fine.
>
> PJ Seipel
> RV-10 #40032
>
> greghale wrote:
>>
>> I found the wiring diagram for the Valor 702W. Any ideas on what I
>> can do or use?
>>
>>
http://www.valordvd.com/FileForDownload/InstallingGuide/ITS-702WInstallingGu
ide.pdf
>>
>>
>> I really appreciate the comments and help.
>>
>> Greg...
>>
>> --------
>> Greg Hale rv8/rv10
>> www.nwacaptain.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198313#198313
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Car Radio output to headphones |
You know sometimes you can stare at something and still not get it until someone
else points it out to you. LINE OUT!!--Duh. You guys are the greatest and
it is times like this that make the forum great! Scott I am not sure about the
exact first song, but I'm sure I GET AROUND by the The Beach Boys will be at
the top of the list. Thanks again everyone for your input. Hopefully I will
finally be done by early next year and be at Oshkosh to meet all of you.
Greg...
N210KH
--------
Greg Hale rv8/rv10
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198406#198406
Message 9
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| Subject: | Rudder: Oil canning |
Hi -
Last night, while final drilling my rudder, I noticed some oil canning in
the bottom two panels of the left skin. I had been following the plans, so
was a bit surprised to see it. It was what I would consider to be fairly
significant oil canning (only comparison is to my old Cessna 170, which had
that going in a few spots), where if I pushed on one panel, the next one up
would pop.
My question is whether this is something that will work itself out during
riveting or whether there is a strategy for redrilling (or something) to
deal with it before I begin riveting?
I've seen some really good archived messages about specific rivet patterns
being used to alleviate oil canning, but none that directly apply to the
rudder. Should I just not worry about it and have faith that the riveting
process will equalize the tension irregularities?
Thanks,
Dennis Keller
Albany, CA
http://www.n44dk.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder: Oil canning |
Dennis;
I've found pretty good luck with using a ton of clecos. I use the scatter
method - one here, one way over there, etc. This seems to help keep canning
to a minimum. I would pull out all the clecos and re-cleco it to see if the
problem persists.
Bruce
flaps
On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 11:23 AM, Dennis Keller <dennis@bullamanka.com>wrote:
> Hi -
>
> Last night, while final drilling my rudder, I noticed some oil canning in
> the bottom two panels of the left skin. I had been following the plans, so
> was a bit surprised to see it. It was what I would consider to be fairly
> significant oil canning (only comparison is to my old Cessna 170, which had
> that going in a few spots), where if I pushed on one panel, the next one up
> would pop.
>
> My question is whether this is something that will work itself out during
> riveting or whether there is a strategy for redrilling (or something) to
> deal with it before I begin riveting?
>
> I've seen some really good archived messages about specific rivet patterns
> being used to alleviate oil canning, but none that directly apply to the
> rudder. Should I just not worry about it and have faith that the riveting
> process will equalize the tension irregularities?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dennis Keller
> Albany, CA
> http://www.n44dk.com
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank lables |
Thanks, I got the same offer from a local guy so I will let him do the work.
Thanks though for offering.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DiNieri
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank lables
Gary,
if you pick a font and give me the specific circle diameters you want in
the decal I can cut one for you. I make decals on my plotter for my other
job and can easily make you exactly what you want. pay for the stamp and you
can have it...
Steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
--------------------------------------------------
From: "gary" <speckter@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 4:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank lables
>
> I am looking for some nice fuel tank labels that go around the filler cap.
> Aircraft Spruce has some big blue ones but I keep thinking I can find some
> that have an inside hole to match Van's filler and printed in black, not
> blue like AS.
>
> What have others done, a google search was not to my liking.
>
> Gary Specketer
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Car Radio output to headphones |
Tim,
On mine, unless you select in the radio's menu to have the bass go to
the subwoofer then there won't be anything output on that line and the
bass goes to the regular speakers. At least on my radio that connection
is optional. But it may very well depend on the brand of radio you have.
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> That idea seems that it should work ok, but I have a
> question about that. They have line out for the subwoofer.
> Won't you lose all the low low's if you just take the
> Front L/R? It seems like they're missing one simple
> wire connection.....plain old Line-out audio.
>
> It may be that to really get all the sound quality you'd
> want, you would have to add another intermediate device
> to mix those signals back together.
>
> I don't know the answer, but I do know that like others
> said, you definitely don't want to tie the speaker
> outputs to the audio panel. You also won't need to
> use the remote amp for this whole system.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> PJ Seipel wrote:
>>
>> Leave the speaker connector disconnected and use the line-out front
>> L/R. Connect those to the stereo input on your intercom and then set
>> the Valor's fade to front speakers only. That's what I did for mine
>> and it seems to work fine.
>>
>> PJ Seipel
>> RV-10 #40032
>>
>> greghale wrote:
>>>
>>> I found the wiring diagram for the Valor 702W. Any ideas on what I
>>> can do or use?
>>>
>>> http://www.valordvd.com/FileForDownload/InstallingGuide/ITS-702WInstallingGuide.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> I really appreciate the comments and help.
>>>
>>> Greg...
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Greg Hale rv8/rv10
>>> www.nwacaptain.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198313#198313
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Car Radio output to headphones |
That's cool....way easier to do that then have to mess
with wiring to do that.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
PJ Seipel wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> On mine, unless you select in the radio's menu to have the bass go to
> the subwoofer then there won't be anything output on that line and the
> bass goes to the regular speakers. At least on my radio that connection
> is optional. But it may very well depend on the brand of radio you have.
>
> PJ Seipel
> RV-10 #40032
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> That idea seems that it should work ok, but I have a
>> question about that. They have line out for the subwoofer.
>> Won't you lose all the low low's if you just take the
>> Front L/R? It seems like they're missing one simple
>> wire connection.....plain old Line-out audio.
>>
>> It may be that to really get all the sound quality you'd
>> want, you would have to add another intermediate device
>> to mix those signals back together.
>>
>> I don't know the answer, but I do know that like others
>> said, you definitely don't want to tie the speaker
>> outputs to the audio panel. You also won't need to
>> use the remote amp for this whole system.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> PJ Seipel wrote:
>>>
>>> Leave the speaker connector disconnected and use the line-out front
>>> L/R. Connect those to the stereo input on your intercom and then set
>>> the Valor's fade to front speakers only. That's what I did for mine
>>> and it seems to work fine.
>>>
>>> PJ Seipel
>>> RV-10 #40032
>>>
>>> greghale wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I found the wiring diagram for the Valor 702W. Any ideas on what I
>>>> can do or use?
>>>>
>>>> http://www.valordvd.com/FileForDownload/InstallingGuide/ITS-702WInstallingGuide.pdf
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I really appreciate the comments and help.
>>>>
>>>> Greg...
>>>>
>>>> --------
>>>> Greg Hale rv8/rv10
>>>> www.nwacaptain.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>
>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198313#198313
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Car Radio output to headphones |
If you could somehow hook up the bass line to the prop governor so the
engine provides the bass on beat, that would be a pretty tricked-out
ride!
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 13, 2008, at 3:49 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> That's cool....way easier to do that then have to mess
> with wiring to do that.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> PJ Seipel wrote:
>> Tim,
>> On mine, unless you select in the radio's menu to have the bass go
>> to the subwoofer then there won't be anything output on that line
>> and the bass goes to the regular speakers. At least on my radio
>> that connection is optional. But it may very well depend on the
>> brand of radio you have.
>> PJ Seipel
>> RV-10 #40032
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> That idea seems that it should work ok, but I have a
>>> question about that. They have line out for the subwoofer.
>>> Won't you lose all the low low's if you just take the
>>> Front L/R? It seems like they're missing one simple
>>> wire connection.....plain old Line-out audio.
>>>
>>> It may be that to really get all the sound quality you'd
>>> want, you would have to add another intermediate device
>>> to mix those signals back together.
>>>
>>> I don't know the answer, but I do know that like others
>>> said, you definitely don't want to tie the speaker
>>> outputs to the audio panel. You also won't need to
>>> use the remote amp for this whole system.
>>>
>>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>> PJ Seipel wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Leave the speaker connector disconnected and use the line-out
>>>> front L/R. Connect those to the stereo input on your intercom
>>>> and then set the Valor's fade to front speakers only. That's
>>>> what I did for mine and it seems to work fine.
>>>>
>>>> PJ Seipel
>>>> RV-10 #40032
>>>>
>>>> greghale wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I found the wiring diagram for the Valor 702W. Any ideas on
>>>>> what I can do or use?
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.valordvd.com/FileForDownload/InstallingGuide/ITS-702WInstallingGuide.pdf
>>>>>
>>>>> I really appreciate the comments and help.
>>>>>
>>>>> Greg...
>>>>>
>>>>> --------
>>>>> Greg Hale rv8/rv10
>>>>> www.nwacaptain.com
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198313#198313
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: door lock size requirement |
Does this do it for you?
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Preston<mailto:dougpflyrv@gmail.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement
If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us
details and photos.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint
<jesse@saintaviation.com<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>> wrote:
Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks
and one of them can be used for the door.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote:
Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage
door would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if space
between the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock since
I don't have the doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks.
Thanks!
Pascal
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List>">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<h
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
href="http://forums.matronics.com<http://forums.matronics.com/>">http:/
/forums.matronics.com<http://forums.matronics.com/>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution>">http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.c
om/contribution>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Car Radio output to headphones |
-----Original Message-----
That idea seems that it should work ok, but I have a
question about that. They have line out for the subwoofer.
Won't you lose all the low low's if you just take the
Front L/R? It seems like they're missing one simple
wire connection.....plain old Line-out audio.
It may be that to really get all the sound quality you'd
want, you would have to add another intermediate device
to mix those signals back together.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Reflections on Rudder Trim |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: door lock size requirement |
Thanks Roger.
dp
On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 4:46 PM, Roger Standley <taildragon@msn.com> wrote:
> Does this do it for you?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Doug Preston <dougpflyrv@gmail.com>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:27 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement
>
> If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us details and
> photos.
> Thanks,
> Doug Preston
>
> On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>wrote:
>
>> Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks and one
>> of them can be used for the door.
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse@saintaviation.com
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage door
>> would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if space between the
>> exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock since I don't have the
>> doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks.
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Pascal
>>
>> *
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | yikes! Subpanel cutouts |
I'm looking at my subpanel next to the Vans plans chapter 41 (hey I'm back in the
book again!).
So far, I've trimmed the aft part of the two outboard ribs to allow for adequate
EFIS clearance. However, the radio stack seems likely to require reinforced
holes (just to the right of the center rib). Are the large cutouts in the plans
meant to be a general sort of guideline?
How are radios in the radio stack secured to the subpanel structure?
Are the circular subpanel holes for round steam gauge stuff or for wire routing?
This probably makes perfect sense once you've done it, but there are too many questions
to just start whacking away. I'd love to hear what others have done and
see some photos if possible.
Thanks in advance for any replies!
Cheers,
Jay
Engine, wiring, and panel stuff... oh my!
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: door lock size requirement |
Roger,
I may caution against this format. The sight of a lock on the door
has some value, but with that configuration, it is easy to just open
the door anyway and break the lock. Those locks are not very strong.
May I recommend putting the lock in line with the geared rod and
further from it, so when you lock it the arm will be horizontal and
you would have to shear the lock to open the handle instead of just
turning the arm. This seems to be a much stronger way of doing it.
If don't think I have a picture, but if I find one or get a chance to
take one I'll post it.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 13, 2008, at 5:46 PM, Roger Standley wrote:
> Does this do it for you?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Doug Preston
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:27 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement
>
> If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us
> details and photos.
> Thanks,
> Doug Preston
>
> On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint
> <jesse@saintaviation.com> wrote:
> Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks
> and one of them can be used for the door.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage
>> door would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if space
>> between the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock
>> since I don't have the doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks.
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Pascal
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
> <Keyed Lock.jpg>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: yikes! Subpanel cutouts |
Van's sample is just for reference of different ways of reinforcing
different sizes and shapes of holes. For a radio stack hole, if you
use aluminum angle around the perimeter, with the horizontal angles on
one side and the vertical angles on the other with a rivet holding the
angles to each other in the corners, that seems to be the strongest
format. Then you can make a bracket that ties the radios together or
at least ties the heaviest and/or lowest to one of those angles or
another sub-panel structure. Most radio trays have holes towards the
back that you can put a #6 screw through into a brace, which can be
made out of aluminum angle as well, which can then be bolted/screwed
to one of the angles on the perimeter of the hole.
Most round instruments aren't deep enough to need a hole in the sub-
panel in my experience, but you may have things such as instrument
cooling fans that will have hoses running to the back of the radio
stack, and you will certainly have a lot of cables running between the
radio stack and the other instruments, not to mention all of the wires
for engine monitoring, electrical buss(es), pitot and static lines,
remote magnetometers and ahrs units, etc. Find out how many things
you have to run, then make at least double the number of holes you
need to run them. I like to use 3/4" holes with snap bushings as much
as possible, often with nutplates to screw cushion clamps onto for
supporting wiring runs where needed around the subpanel, usually along
the bottom.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 13, 2008, at 9:22 PM, Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
> >
>
> I'm looking at my subpanel next to the Vans plans chapter 41 (hey
> I'm back in the book again!).
>
> So far, I've trimmed the aft part of the two outboard ribs to allow
> for adequate EFIS clearance. However, the radio stack seems likely
> to require reinforced holes (just to the right of the center rib).
> Are the large cutouts in the plans meant to be a general sort of
> guideline?
>
> How are radios in the radio stack secured to the subpanel structure?
>
> Are the circular subpanel holes for round steam gauge stuff or for
> wire routing?
>
> This probably makes perfect sense once you've done it, but there are
> too many questions to just start whacking away. I'd love to hear
> what others have done and see some photos if possible.
>
> Thanks in advance for any replies!
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
> Engine, wiring, and panel stuff... oh my!
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: door lock size requirement |
Hi Jesse,
Is this what you mean?
Good idea. Wish I had done it this way.
Thank you,
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement
Roger,
I may caution against this format. The sight of a lock on the door
has some value, but with that configuration, it is easy to just open the
door anyway and break the lock. Those locks are not very strong. May I
recommend putting the lock in line with the geared rod and further from
it, so when you lock it the arm will be horizontal and you would have to
shear the lock to open the handle instead of just turning the arm. This
seems to be a much stronger way of doing it. If don't think I have a
picture, but if I find one or get a chance to take one I'll post it.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 13, 2008, at 5:46 PM, Roger Standley wrote:
Does this do it for you?
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Preston<mailto:dougpflyrv@gmail.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement
If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us
details and photos.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint
<jesse@saintaviation.com<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>> wrote:
Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two
locks and one of them can be used for the door.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote:
Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the
baggage door would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if
space between the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock
since I don't have the doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks.
Thanks!
Pascal
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List>">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<h
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
href="http://forums.matronics.com<http://forums.matronics.com/>">http:/
/forums.matronics.com<http://forums.matronics.com/>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution>">http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.c
om/contribution>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List>">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<h
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
href="http://forums.matronics.com<http://forums.matronics.com/>">http:/
/forums.matronics.com<http://forums.matronics.com/>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/co
ntribution>">http://www.matronics.com/c<http://www.matronics.com/c>
<Keyed Lock.jpg>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: door lock size requirement |
Yep, that's it.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 13, 2008, at 10:39 PM, Roger Standley wrote:
> Hi Jesse,
>
> Is this what you mean?
>
> <clip_image002.gif>
>
> Good idea. Wish I had done it this way.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Roger
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jesse Saint
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 6:42 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement
>
> Roger,
>
> I may caution against this format. The sight of a lock on the door
> has some value, but with that configuration, it is easy to just open
> the door anyway and break the lock. Those locks are not very
> strong. May I recommend putting the lock in line with the geared
> rod and further from it, so when you lock it the arm will be
> horizontal and you would have to shear the lock to open the handle
> instead of just turning the arm. This seems to be a much stronger
> way of doing it. If don't think I have a picture, but if I find one
> or get a chance to take one I'll post it.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Aug 13, 2008, at 5:46 PM, Roger Standley wrote:
>
>> Does this do it for you?
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Doug Preston
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:27 AM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement
>>
>> If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us
>> details and photos.
>> Thanks,
>> Doug Preston
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint
>> <jesse@saintaviation.com> wrote:
>> Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two locks
>> and one of them can be used for the door.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse@saintaviation.com
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the baggage
>>> door would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if
>>> space between the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger
>>> lock since I don't have the doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks.
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Pascal
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>> <Keyed Lock.jpg>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
Message 24
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| Subject: | OSH RV10 HQ mug shots |
I just returned from a series of extended trips following OSH, and had a
chance to unload and post some of the photos I took @ OSH. During the
Tues (?) pm HQ dinner I snapped shots of as many faces as I could. Many
have name tags, which helps in putting together faces with names. If for
some reason I missed you. I apologize. Maybe next year. If anyone has
objections to having your mug posted, let me know and I'll take it off.
Here's the link to the mug shot album
http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/RV10%20HQ%20Mug%20Shots/index.html
And here's one to the RV10's that were there, during Sun-Thurs (am):
http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/RV-10's/index.html
Robin, I thought I had a close up picture of the nose wheel mod you
asked about, but apparently I don't. There is a pic of the plane and
you can load the pic from the website and zoom it perhaps.
Deems
patiently (?) waiting on the painter.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/index.html
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: OSH RV10 HQ mug shots |
Well if there ever was a photographic reason to get back on my diet...It's your
stinkin camera!!!
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis@cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:38:15 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: OSH RV10 HQ mug shots
I just returned from a series of extended trips following OSH, and had a
chance to unload and post some of the photos I took @ OSH. During the
Tues (?) pm HQ dinner I snapped shots of as many faces as I could. Many
have name tags, which helps in putting together faces with names. If for
some reason I missed you. I apologize. Maybe next year. If anyone has
objections to having your mug posted, let me know and I'll take it off.
Here's the link to the mug shot album
http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/RV10%20HQ%20Mug%20Shots/index.html
And here's one to the RV10's that were there, during Sun-Thurs (am):
http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/RV-10's/index.html
Robin, I thought I had a close up picture of the nose wheel mod you
asked about, but apparently I don't. There is a pic of the plane and
you can load the pic from the website and zoom it perhaps.
Deems
patiently (?) waiting on the painter.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/OSHKOSH%202008/index.html
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: door lock size requirement |
We used the IflyRV10 door handles and locks from Steve Dinieri. I am very happy
with the results. Here are some photos. Steve also sent me and additional lock
cylinder that I will use on the baggage door. Great company to work with.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198519#198519
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Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: door lock size requirement |
how far in line would this be? specifically how far is on the exterior
where one would drill a hole for the placement?
Thanks!
Pascal
From: Roger Standley
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement
Hi Jesse,
Is this what you mean?
Good idea. Wish I had done it this way.
Thank you,
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement
Roger,
I may caution against this format. The sight of a lock on the door
has some value, but with that configuration, it is easy to just open the
door anyway and break the lock. Those locks are not very strong. May I
recommend putting the lock in line with the geared rod and further from
it, so when you lock it the arm will be horizontal and you would have to
shear the lock to open the handle instead of just turning the arm. This
seems to be a much stronger way of doing it. If don't think I have a
picture, but if I find one or get a chance to take one I'll post it.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 13, 2008, at 5:46 PM, Roger Standley wrote:
Does this do it for you?
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Preston
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: door lock size requirement
If any of you have installed cabin door locks....please give us
details and photos.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 8:18 AM, Jesse Saint
<jesse@saintaviation.com> wrote:
Yes, the same size lock works. The mag switch includes two
locks and one of them can be used for the door.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Aug 12, 2008, at 1:53 PM, pascal wrote:
Does anyone know if the same size lock (5/8) used for the
baggage door would also work on the canopy doors? I don't know the if
space between the exterior door and the door rod requires a larger lock
since I don't have the doors yet, just a few extra 5/8 locks.
Thanks!
Pascal
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Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Reflections on Rudder Trim |
I tend to agree with Vans. We are on a trip around Australia at the
moment so with only 20 hours on the plane when we left we just bent a 3
inch square piece of 032 and taped to rudder after adjustment we need
slight right rudder for climb and then in cruise feet off and ball in
the middle. Done 15 hours with it on and works well. Will paint and
rivet on when we get home .
Chris
VH-ICY
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Fritzsche (Building)
To: RV-10 Matronics
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 9:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Reflections on Rudder Trim
I went to AirVenture with the intention of building a servo controlled
rudder trim system into my rudder as I complete it. AirVenture gave me
a good opportunity to look at the different implementations on flying
RV-10s. There were quite a few. I stopped by Van's tent on several
occasions and asked two different employees (those I consider two of the
most knowledgeable) what Van's view is of servo controlled rudder trim.
Both replied (independently of course) that it is not needed. That left
me wondering about the rudder trim on commercially built, high
performance aircraft. What better place to find out than to stroll over
to the commercial exhibits. Here is what I found.
The Bonanza has a 2.25" by 11" trim tab held onto the rudder by a
comparable sized strip of aluminum on each side riveted to the rudder
and to the trim tab.
The Cirrus has a 2.5" by 8" tab riveted to one side of the rudder.
The Columbia/Cessna 350/400 has the trim tab riveted to one side of
the rudder. It is also slotted as shown in the picture.
After talking with several Mooney salespeople, I was told that the
airplane has a servo that is linked to the rudder control rod in a
manner that effectively changes its length providing a trim effect. I
was told by Cessna salespeople that the Skylane uses a servo and spring
arrangement to adjust the tension on the rudder control cables. Thus
there are a variety of methods used by the commercial manufacturers,
almost as many as used by RV-10 builders. :-)
Upon reflection, I have decided to rivet a tab, size yet to be
determined, to one side of the rudder. It is a simple, inexpensive,
ground adjustable solution in use by a number of high performance
commercial airplane manufacturers.
Dave
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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