Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:22 AM - Re: QB Wing Questions (David McNeill)
2. 04:24 AM - Re: QB Wing Questions (Lew Gallagher)
3. 04:43 AM - Re: QB Wing Questions (orchidman)
4. 05:33 AM - Re: QB Wing Questions (Les Kearney)
5. 06:06 AM - SpeedBrakes (Dawson-Townsend,Timothy)
6. 06:15 AM - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel pant (Ralph E. Capen)
7. 06:17 AM - Re: QB Wing Questions (David McNeill)
8. 06:33 AM - Re: SpeedBrakes (David McNeill)
9. 06:33 AM - Re: James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel pant (David McNeill)
10. 07:03 AM - Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel pant (Ralph E. Capen)
11. 07:28 AM - Re: Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel pant (William Curtis)
12. 07:48 AM - Re: Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel pant (Ralph E. Capen)
13. 08:33 AM - Re: QB Wing Questions (MauleDriver)
14. 10:09 AM - Re: Re: QB Wing Questions (Dave Leikam)
15. 12:08 PM - Nosewheel spacers U-1023 (Dave Saylor)
16. 12:30 PM - Re: Nosewheel spacers U-1023 (Tim Olson)
17. 12:30 PM - Re: Brake Linings (tintopranch)
18. 12:51 PM - N929EH Flies! (Tim Olson)
19. 01:26 PM - trim tab hinge pin (Bill Cannon)
20. 03:53 PM - Re: Brake Linings (Marcus Cooper)
21. 04:12 PM - Re: Brake Linings (David McNeill)
22. 04:16 PM - Re: Brake Linings (David McNeill)
23. 04:32 PM - Re: Brake Linings (David McNeill)
24. 04:34 PM - Re: Brake Linings (John Cumins)
25. 06:04 PM - Re: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade (RobHickman@aol.com)
26. 07:02 PM - Re: N929EH Flies! (John Strain)
27. 07:16 PM - Re: Brake Linings (Don McDonald)
28. 07:19 PM - Old fuse, new plans... (Lenny Iszak)
29. 07:33 PM - Re: Old fuse, new plans... (Rene)
30. 08:29 PM - DAR Costs (Robin Marks)
31. 09:03 PM - Re: DAR Costs (Tim Olson)
32. 09:22 PM - APRS System (Albert Gardner)
33. 09:52 PM - Re: APRS System (David McNeill)
34. 10:33 PM - Re: APRS System (Robin Marks)
Message 1
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| Subject: | QB Wing Questions |
trim the forward edge of the skin with a file or sanding block because
riveting causes flattening of the skin and extends it .010-.015. results in
a slight ridge.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions
Hi Les,
There should be plenty of material for tapping the tie downs. I had no
problem here. Just go slow, use plenty of oil, and reverse out the tap
often to clear the threads. I then used a small angled pick to remove chips
from the holes. I used a small Vixen file to put a bevel on the skin edges
for overlapping. Again, go slow and steady and keep a constant angle. Be
sure to remove some material from the aft edge of the skins so they do not
buckle and cause oil canning. You'll see what I mean after you cleco the
skins on the first time.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: LES KEARNEY <mailto:Kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 10:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions
Hi
This wekend I started fininihsing off my QB wings. When installing the
botton skins, the plans reference step 5 on pag 16-2 that describe how to
improve the "aesthetics" of the wing overlaps.
While the plans suggest removing material from the overlapped skins, they
neglect to say how to do this. The range of possibilities go from a chain
saw to a jeweler's file. I think a sanding block with a fine grit sandpaper
might work but was wondering what others have used.
As well, I have a couple of tie down rings for the wings. Looking at the
ring attachment points, it looks like the there is not enough material to
allow tapping holes for the rings. Am I missing something ?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Questions |
Hey Les,
On the forward edge (I think Dave may have also meant forward instead of aft ...?)
I headed the advice of others and paid attention when clecoing to see what
they were talking about. Sure enough, the forward edge needed to be trimmed
on both finishing panels.
Since the amount that needed to come off was consistent, I ran the edge of a felt
sharpie along the edge of the aluminum to give me a guide mark, then just used
the belt sander to shave it off. Then debur and it gave a nice straight edge
-- no oil canning, but bruised upper arms stretching to the max to back those
hard to reach rivets!
Here's a copy of a previously posted rivet pattern, if you didn't see it.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0382#200382
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/bottom_wing_skin_rivetting_pattern_168.pdf
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Questions |
I also used the belt sander. Goes much quicker and I think you can get a very
uniform taper. Watch it that you don't stay in one spot to long as the AL can
get very hot.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0387#200387
Message 4
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| Subject: | QB Wing Questions |
Thanks Dave et all. I appreciate the advice. Damn, no chain saw..
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Some assembly required
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: August-25-08 4:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions
trim the forward edge of the skin with a file or sanding block because
riveting causes flattening of the skin and extends it .010-.015. results in
a slight ridge.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions
Hi Les,
There should be plenty of material for tapping the tie downs. I had no
problem here. Just go slow, use plenty of oil, and reverse out the tap
often to clear the threads. I then used a small angled pick to remove chips
from the holes. I used a small Vixen file to put a bevel on the skin edges
for overlapping. Again, go slow and steady and keep a constant angle. Be
sure to remove some material from the aft edge of the skins so they do not
buckle and cause oil canning. You'll see what I mean after you cleco the
skins on the first time.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: LES KEARNEY <mailto:Kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 10:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions
Hi
This wekend I started fininihsing off my QB wings. When installing the
botton skins, the plans reference step 5 on pag 16-2 that describe how to
improve the "aesthetics" of the wing overlaps.
While the plans suggest removing material from the overlapped skins, they
neglect to say how to do this. The range of possibilities go from a chain
saw to a jeweler's file. I think a sanding block with a fine grit sandpaper
might work but was wondering what others have used.
As well, I have a couple of tie down rings for the wings. Looking at the
ring attachment points, it looks like the there is not enough material to
allow tapping holes for the rings. Am I missing something ?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 5
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I bumped into a guy at Oshkosh from Bend, OR, whose small firm had
engineered a speed brake installation for RV-10s. He implied they had
done at least one installation already. I think they were Precise
Flight brakes. I didn't ask the price . . .
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 6
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| Subject: | James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel pant |
Folks,
According to the James gang, a number of folks have converted a non-RV10 mainwheel
pant for use as a RV10 nosewheel pant.
I'm sorta doing this also as I have put a larger nosewheel fork assembly on my
6A and have upgraded the mainwheels to a larger tire. I had already purchased
the James mainwheel pants so they are available for this mod.
Here's what I have done so far:
1. Drilled and clecoed the two halves together so that it can be worked as a unit.
2. Measured and cut the bottom hole so the tire will stick out the bottom - I
used the provided axel markings as my reference point.
3. Called Sam James to talk about the clearance between the top of the tire and
the inside upper wall of the wheel pant. Sam graciously took my call on a Sunday,
relieved my clearance fears, offered the info on other folks converting
the main pant to a 10 nosepant, and reminded me to 'land on the mains'.
4. Measured and marked where the 'new' front cut will go - to accomodate the nosegear
leg and fork.
Here's what I'm getting ready to do:
1. Add the mudflap wall to the inside of the rear half - per instructions.
2. Fiberglass the original two halves together at the original cut line.
3. Make the 'new' front cut and glass in the attachment flange so it will go back
together.
4. Install the (new one-piece-per-side) nosewheel pant attach brackets to the
nosewheel fork.
5. Level the longerons on order to properly align the 'waterline' of the pant
to flight level.
6. Drill the attach bracket holes through the pant and bracket.
My real angst is the 'new' cut line....where should it go? My common sense tells
me that the top of the aft part should end right behind the nosegearleg - but
where is that? I tried to match the angle of the plans cut-line for their
nosewheel pant and I'm not as concerned about the angle as I am the placement
up top.
I would appreciate any comments, suggestions, photos, measurements, and encouragement
from anyone that has accomplished this feat of fiberglass manipulation.
Ralph Capen
Message 7
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| Subject: | QB Wing Questions |
if you check the top skins on the QB wings you will find that Vans did not
always follow its own advice.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 5:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions
Thanks Dave et all. I appreciate the advice. Damn, no chain saw..
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Some assembly required
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: August-25-08 4:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions
trim the forward edge of the skin with a file or sanding block because
riveting causes flattening of the skin and extends it .010-.015. results in
a slight ridge.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions
Hi Les,
There should be plenty of material for tapping the tie downs. I had no
problem here. Just go slow, use plenty of oil, and reverse out the tap
often to clear the threads. I then used a small angled pick to remove chips
from the holes. I used a small Vixen file to put a bevel on the skin edges
for overlapping. Again, go slow and steady and keep a constant angle. Be
sure to remove some material from the aft edge of the skins so they do not
buckle and cause oil canning. You'll see what I mean after you cleco the
skins on the first time.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: LES KEARNEY <mailto:Kearney@shaw.ca>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 10:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: QB Wing Questions
Hi
This wekend I started fininihsing off my QB wings. When installing the
botton skins, the plans reference step 5 on pag 16-2 that describe how to
improve the "aesthetics" of the wing overlaps.
While the plans suggest removing material from the overlapped skins, they
neglect to say how to do this. The range of possibilities go from a chain
saw to a jeweler's file. I think a sanding block with a fine grit sandpaper
might work but was wondering what others have used.
As well, I have a couple of tie down rings for the wings. Looking at the
ring attachment points, it looks like the there is not enough material to
allow tapping holes for the rings. Am I missing something ?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 8
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checked their site. about 4K plus another 35-50 hours of labor.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 6:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: SpeedBrakes
I bumped into a guy at Oshkosh from Bend, OR, whose small firm had
engineered a speed brake installation for RV-10s. He implied they had done
at least one installation already. I think they were Precise Flight brakes.
I didn't ask the price . . .
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt@aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
Message 9
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| Subject: | James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel |
pant
Out of curiosity what is achieved by doing this?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 6:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 nosewheel
pant
--> <recapen@earthlink.net>
Folks,
According to the James gang, a number of folks have converted a non-RV10
mainwheel pant for use as a RV10 nosewheel pant.
I'm sorta doing this also as I have put a larger nosewheel fork assembly on
my 6A and have upgraded the mainwheels to a larger tire. I had already
purchased the James mainwheel pants so they are available for this mod.
Here's what I have done so far:
1. Drilled and clecoed the two halves together so that it can be worked as
a unit.
2. Measured and cut the bottom hole so the tire will stick out the bottom -
I used the provided axel markings as my reference point.
3. Called Sam James to talk about the clearance between the top of the tire
and the inside upper wall of the wheel pant. Sam graciously took my call on
a Sunday, relieved my clearance fears, offered the info on other folks
converting the main pant to a 10 nosepant, and reminded me to 'land on the
mains'.
4. Measured and marked where the 'new' front cut will go - to accomodate
the nosegear leg and fork.
Here's what I'm getting ready to do:
1. Add the mudflap wall to the inside of the rear half - per instructions.
2. Fiberglass the original two halves together at the original cut line.
3. Make the 'new' front cut and glass in the attachment flange so it will
go back together.
4. Install the (new one-piece-per-side) nosewheel pant attach brackets to
the nosewheel fork.
5. Level the longerons on order to properly align the 'waterline' of the
pant to flight level.
6. Drill the attach bracket holes through the pant and bracket.
My real angst is the 'new' cut line....where should it go? My common sense
tells me that the top of the aft part should end right behind the
nosegearleg - but where is that? I tried to match the angle of the plans
cut-line for their nosewheel pant and I'm not as concerned about the angle
as I am the placement up top.
I would appreciate any comments, suggestions, photos, measurements, and
encouragement from anyone that has accomplished this feat of fiberglass
manipulation.
Ralph Capen
Message 10
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| Subject: | Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 |
nosewheel pant
Here's the background as I see it......
There have been a number of 'A' series aircraft that have nosed-over due to the
nosewheel getting caught on something. Not gonna go in to who, what, when, where,
why, or how in this discussion. Van's came up with a new leg, then a new
fork. Some folks here in the US have modified a 10 nosewheel fork to fit the
6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. There is at least one builder in the UK that has designed
and built a new nosewheel fork that fits the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. The purpose
of these has been to get a larger tire up front and raise the height of
the fork attach nut such that the potential for 'stubbing the toe' has been significantly
reduced.
In my case, the 6A already has a nose-high attitude which is accentuated by putting
a larger nosewheel up front - so I went one size larger on my main tires,
giving me a 6x6 size tire on the stock 5x5 rims.
The Sam James mainwheel pants for the 6/7/8/9 are nice looking and aerodynamic
and they don't make a pant for the 10 nosewheel - the 6/7/8/9 mainwheels are the
same size as the 10 nosewheel so it would seem to be a good match.
Hope this helps.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as RV10 |
nosewheel pant
I'm still a little confused; Are you building a 6 with bigger tires or are you
trying to modify the James 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant to an RV-10 nosewheel?
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Here's the background as I see it......
>
> There have been a number of 'A' series aircraft that have nosed-over due to the
nosewheel getting caught on something. Not gonna go in to who, what, when,
where, why, or how in this discussion. Van's came up with a new leg, then a
new fork. Some folks here in the US have modified a 10 nosewheel fork to fit
the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. There is at least one builder in the UK that has designed
and built a new nosewheel fork that fits the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. The
purpose of these has been to get a larger tire up front and raise the height
of the fork attach nut such that the potential for 'stubbing the toe' has been
significantly reduced.
>
> In my case, the 6A already has a nose-high attitude which is accentuated by putting
a larger nosewheel up front - so I went one size larger on my main tires,
giving me a 6x6 size tire on the stock 5x5 rims.
>
> The Sam James mainwheel pants for the 6/7/8/9 are nice looking and aerodynamic
and they don't make a pant for the 10 nosewheel - the 6/7/8/9 mainwheels are
the same size as the 10 nosewheel so it would seem to be a good match.
>
> Hope this helps.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as |
RV10 nosewheel pant
Both - the bigger tires include the nosewheel which is the equivalent of a 10 nosewheel.
I'm trying to put a SJ 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant on my 10 sized nosewheel.
-----Original Message-----
>From: William Curtis <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
>Sent: Aug 25, 2008 10:44 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: re: RV10-List: Background - James Aircraft 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant as
RV10 nosewheel pant
>
>
>I'm still a little confused; Are you building a 6 with bigger tires or are you
trying to modify the James 6/7/8/9 mainwheel pant to an RV-10 nosewheel?
>
>William
>http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
>-------- Original Message --------
>>
>> Here's the background as I see it......
>>
>> There have been a number of 'A' series aircraft that have nosed-over due to
the nosewheel getting caught on something. Not gonna go in to who, what, when,
where, why, or how in this discussion. Van's came up with a new leg, then a
new fork. Some folks here in the US have modified a 10 nosewheel fork to fit
the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. There is at least one builder in the UK that has designed
and built a new nosewheel fork that fits the 6/7/8/9 nosegear leg. The
purpose of these has been to get a larger tire up front and raise the height
of the fork attach nut such that the potential for 'stubbing the toe' has been
significantly reduced.
>>
>> In my case, the 6A already has a nose-high attitude which is accentuated by
putting a larger nosewheel up front - so I went one size larger on my main tires,
giving me a 6x6 size tire on the stock 5x5 rims.
>>
>> The Sam James mainwheel pants for the 6/7/8/9 are nice looking and aerodynamic
and they don't make a pant for the 10 nosewheel - the 6/7/8/9 mainwheels are
the same size as the 10 nosewheel so it would seem to be a good match.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Questions |
I did the 'scarf' on one wing using a variety of things. A die grinder
mounted disk sander was most effective. I know it sounds like the wrong
tool but it worked well. Sanding a scarf using a block with fine paper
may exhaust your patience.
Having done it, I did not think it worthwhile. Yes, look at what the
QB builders did on the top skin overlap. They just knocked the exposed
corner off at 45 degrees. Looks nice. I ended up not even doing that
for the bottoms.
I found enough material to tap the tiedowns. As recommended by others,
use plenty of lube and back out often. This is not a place you want to
break off a tap (as if there is anywhere you want to break off a tap).
I used a vacuum to clean out the chips.
Bill Watson
LES KEARNEY wrote:
> Hi
>
> This wekend I started fininihsing off my QB wings. When installing the
> botton skins, the plans reference step 5 on pag 16-2 that describe how
> to improve the "aesthetics" of the wing overlaps.
>
> While the plans suggest removing material from the overlapped skins,
> they neglect to say how to do this. The range of possibilities go from
> a chain saw to a jeweler's file. I think a sanding block with a fine
> grit sandpaper might work but was wondering what others have used.
>
> As well, I have a couple of tie down rings for the wings. Looking at
> the ring attachment points, it looks like the there is not enough
> material to allow tapping holes for the rings. Am I missing something ?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
> Les Kearney
> #40643 - some assembly required
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: QB Wing Questions |
Oops! Yes I meant forward, sorry.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 6:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Wing Questions
>
> Hey Les,
>
> On the forward edge (I think Dave may have also meant forward instead of
> aft ...?) I headed the advice of others and paid attention when clecoing
> to see what they were talking about. Sure enough, the forward edge needed
> to be trimmed on both finishing panels.
>
> Since the amount that needed to come off was consistent, I ran the edge of
> a felt sharpie along the edge of the aluminum to give me a guide mark,
> then just used the belt sander to shave it off. Then debur and it gave a
> nice straight edge -- no oil canning, but bruised upper arms stretching to
> the max to back those hard to reach rivets!
>
> Here's a copy of a previously posted rivet pattern, if you didn't see it.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0382#200382
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/bottom_wing_skin_rivetting_pattern_168.pdf
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Nosewheel spacers U-1023 |
For those who haven't upgraded to the new style nosewheel spacers per the
Service Letter, here's what the wheel eventually does if the spacers are
allowed to loosen up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxZJ2E_qZxo
I could feel this play in the towbar while moving the plane. This customer
bought a new fork because it was cut up from the thin SS original style
spacers.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel spacers U-1023 |
That's exactly what does happen. Here are some photos that
show it well too from an old write-up of mine.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20060809/index.html
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Dave Saylor wrote:
> For those who haven't upgraded to the new style nosewheel spacers per
> the Service Letter, here's what the wheel eventually does if the spacers
> are allowed to loosen up:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxZJ2E_qZxo
>
> I could feel this play in the towbar while moving the plane. This
> customer bought a new fork because it was cut up from the thin SS
> original style spacers.
>
> Dave Saylor
> AirCrafters LLC
> 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA
> 831-722-9141
> 831-750-0284 CL
> www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Linings |
AircraftSpruce price is for each lining and you will need 4 at $16, I just purchased
them...will purchase from Van's in the future, I just needed them faster
than Van's could ship.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
RV-10 40292
Flying since June 07
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0492#200492
Message 18
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News from Saturday.....fellow RV-10 builder Ed Hayden
did his 1st flight out in Hillsboro, OR on Saturday
a.m.! He's got a great looking plane, as you can
see here:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh2/photos/N929EH.jpg
He's got the Flightline AC system installed, which is
one of the things that is unique about his plane.
He reported that the plane flew beautifully, and handled
real well...and he was very pleased with the performance.
The first flight, however, did not go uneventfully,
and here is where y'all should listen closely and prepare
yourself...
Ed has a lightspeed ignition on one side, and a slick mag
on the other, just like I and many other have. In this
case, the lightspeed was once again the one good thing
he had going for him. As I understand it (sorry that
it's 2nd hand) he got to 1000' on takeoff and the plane
started missing real bad....making lots of noise. He
radioed the tower of his problems and immediate need
to return to land. He ran it on the lightspeed only (which
only gives maybe a 10 RPM drop on the mag test) and
said he had a beautiful landing.
Upon having an A&P come over and test the mag, it was
readily determined that this was indeed a slick mag
failure. What ISN'T unique about this is that I now know
of TWO RV-10 builders who've had slick mags fail on
their first flight.
So be aware any time you're flying in these current times
with Slick mags having known problems, and if you get
strange missing, perhaps try running on R or L instead
of Both. It will most likely run much better than having
that failed mag sparking at the wrong times.
Now if they could only get their parts issues figured
out at Unison and do an industry wide recall and
exchange of these mags, or at least provide free
rebuild kits to all owners, it would be a very good
thing indeed. Thank goodness as experimental builders
we have the electronic ignition options we do have...its
becoming one of our great benefits.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Message 19
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| Subject: | trim tab hinge pin |
Hi All,
I have seen plans for a better way of securing the trim tab hinge pins somewhere
but can't find any reference to it now that the time is approaching. I saw
what looked like a pdf with instructions a while back. Does anyone have a link
or if you have the pdf could you email it to me?
Thanks so much in advance,
Bill Cannon
BC777@optonline.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0510#200510
Message 20
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Yep, I got the e-mail from AS&S and the price is per each lining, $16.95 x 4
- ouch, Van's is getting the order for sure. Rapco has the right part
number in their catalog so they appear to make them, hopefully AS&S will
start carrying them soon but right now they are still showing unavailable.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 7:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
You can figure about $15 per lining no matter which supplier you buy for
aircraft; it goes on certified aircraft.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
Thanks, good catch on the part number but I read it as price per lining so
with the new price of $16.95 that would be double Vans price. I have a
question in to AS&S so we'll see. If anyone has confidence that the price
is per pair please let me know and I'll hit send on the order. My concern
is because there are several airplanes mentioned that need 1 versus 2 of the
same part number but the price is the same leading me to believe price is
per lining.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake Linings
AS&S shows Cleveland version for 15.60 a pair, under Beech Skipper. So tax
vs shipping would be the tie brake.
On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 12:53 PM, Marcus Cooper <coop85@cableone.net> wrote:
>
> It's time to replace the brakes and my research has found Tim's notes
> of requiring Cleveland part# 66-112. However, Vans has a brake kit
> with 4 linings and the rivets for $33. I'm guessing those aren't
> Cleveland parts so I was wondering if anyone knew of RAPCO now had a
> matching part? I'll happily order the parts from Vans, however I'm a
> lot closer to AS&S and I'd like to save on the shipping since I have
> to order the brake tool from them anyway.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 21
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If you are looking for a deal, I ordered 8 pads and 20 rivets from air
suppliers in Texas. Each Cleveland pad was $13.08 and rivets were $.16 each.
Fedex ground was $12.61. total $122.05. Because it is a part that goes on
certified aircraft you have the FAA/PMA premium.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 3:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
Yep, I got the e-mail from AS&S and the price is per each lining, $16.95 x 4
- ouch, Van's is getting the order for sure. Rapco has the right part
number in their catalog so they appear to make them, hopefully AS&S will
start carrying them soon but right now they are still showing unavailable.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 7:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
You can figure about $15 per lining no matter which supplier you buy for
aircraft; it goes on certified aircraft.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
Thanks, good catch on the part number but I read it as price per lining so
with the new price of $16.95 that would be double Vans price. I have a
question in to AS&S so we'll see. If anyone has confidence that the price
is per pair please let me know and I'll hit send on the order. My concern
is because there are several airplanes mentioned that need 1 versus 2 of the
same part number but the price is the same leading me to believe price is
per lining.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake Linings
AS&S shows Cleveland version for 15.60 a pair, under Beech Skipper. So tax
vs shipping would be the tie brake.
On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 12:53 PM, Marcus Cooper <coop85@cableone.net> wrote:
>
> It's time to replace the brakes and my research has found Tim's notes
> of requiring Cleveland part# 66-112. However, Vans has a brake kit
> with 4 linings and the rivets for $33. I'm guessing those aren't
> Cleveland parts so I was wondering if anyone knew of RAPCO now had a
> matching part? I'll happily order the parts from Vans, however I'm a
> lot closer to AS&S and I'd like to save on the shipping since I have
> to order the brake tool from them anyway.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 22
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|
I am told that Vans sells the Grove brand and a set of four linings is $33.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 3:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
Yep, I got the e-mail from AS&S and the price is per each lining, $16.95 x 4
- ouch, Van's is getting the order for sure. Rapco has the right part
number in their catalog so they appear to make them, hopefully AS&S will
start carrying them soon but right now they are still showing unavailable.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 7:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
You can figure about $15 per lining no matter which supplier you buy for
aircraft; it goes on certified aircraft.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
Thanks, good catch on the part number but I read it as price per lining so
with the new price of $16.95 that would be double Vans price. I have a
question in to AS&S so we'll see. If anyone has confidence that the price
is per pair please let me know and I'll hit send on the order. My concern
is because there are several airplanes mentioned that need 1 versus 2 of the
same part number but the price is the same leading me to believe price is
per lining.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake Linings
AS&S shows Cleveland version for 15.60 a pair, under Beech Skipper. So tax
vs shipping would be the tie brake.
On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 12:53 PM, Marcus Cooper <coop85@cableone.net> wrote:
>
> It's time to replace the brakes and my research has found Tim's notes
> of requiring Cleveland part# 66-112. However, Vans has a brake kit
> with 4 linings and the rivets for $33. I'm guessing those aren't
> Cleveland parts so I was wondering if anyone knew of RAPCO now had a
> matching part? I'll happily order the parts from Vans, however I'm a
> lot closer to AS&S and I'd like to save on the shipping since I have
> to order the brake tool from them anyway.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 23
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I just called Vans and confirmed that they do not sell Grove for the 10 but
do sell Cleveland 66-11200 , a set of 4 for $33. I ordered two sets. That is
a deal.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 4:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
I am told that Vans sells the Grove brand and a set of four linings is $33.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 3:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
Yep, I got the e-mail from AS&S and the price is per each lining, $16.95 x 4
- ouch, Van's is getting the order for sure. Rapco has the right part
number in their catalog so they appear to make them, hopefully AS&S will
start carrying them soon but right now they are still showing unavailable.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 7:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
You can figure about $15 per lining no matter which supplier you buy for
aircraft; it goes on certified aircraft.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
Thanks, good catch on the part number but I read it as price per lining so
with the new price of $16.95 that would be double Vans price. I have a
question in to AS&S so we'll see. If anyone has confidence that the price
is per pair please let me know and I'll hit send on the order. My concern
is because there are several airplanes mentioned that need 1 versus 2 of the
same part number but the price is the same leading me to believe price is
per lining.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake Linings
AS&S shows Cleveland version for 15.60 a pair, under Beech Skipper. So tax
vs shipping would be the tie brake.
On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 12:53 PM, Marcus Cooper <coop85@cableone.net> wrote:
>
> It's time to replace the brakes and my research has found Tim's notes
> of requiring Cleveland part# 66-112. However, Vans has a brake kit
> with 4 linings and the rivets for $33. I'm guessing those aren't
> Cleveland parts so I was wondering if anyone knew of RAPCO now had a
> matching part? I'll happily order the parts from Vans, however I'm a
> lot closer to AS&S and I'd like to save on the shipping since I have
> to order the brake tool from them anyway.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 24
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|
Sacramento Skyranch has 66-11200 for $16.64 and they do carry the
RA66-11200 but do nut publish there price on line.
There a great place to get parts and reasonable too.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 4:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
I am told that Vans sells the Grove brand and a set of four linings is $33.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 3:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
Yep, I got the e-mail from AS&S and the price is per each lining, $16.95 x 4
- ouch, Van's is getting the order for sure. Rapco has the right part
number in their catalog so they appear to make them, hopefully AS&S will
start carrying them soon but right now they are still showing unavailable.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 7:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
You can figure about $15 per lining no matter which supplier you buy for
aircraft; it goes on certified aircraft.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
Thanks, good catch on the part number but I read it as price per lining so
with the new price of $16.95 that would be double Vans price. I have a
question in to AS&S so we'll see. If anyone has confidence that the price
is per pair please let me know and I'll hit send on the order. My concern
is because there are several airplanes mentioned that need 1 versus 2 of the
same part number but the price is the same leading me to believe price is
per lining.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake Linings
AS&S shows Cleveland version for 15.60 a pair, under Beech Skipper. So tax
vs shipping would be the tie brake.
On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 12:53 PM, Marcus Cooper <coop85@cableone.net> wrote:
>
> It's time to replace the brakes and my research has found Tim's notes
> of requiring Cleveland part# 66-112. However, Vans has a brake kit
> with 4 linings and the rivets for $33. I'm guessing those aren't
> Cleveland parts so I was wondering if anyone knew of RAPCO now had a
> matching part? I'll happily order the parts from Vans, however I'm a
> lot closer to AS&S and I'd like to save on the shipping since I have
> to order the brake tool from them anyway.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade |
I have the MT govenor, speed test is scheduled for this week.
Jennifer and I flew it to Seattle on Sunday and we got the following speeds:
8500 FT
2450 RPM
Full Throttle
169-171 KTS True Airspeed
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Message 26
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Congratulations Ed!
Look forward to seeing your plane land here at Bend in the near future. I'm
sure we're in your fly off zone.
Breakfast, Lunch, or Dinner is on us. Thanks for believing in our
capabilities as much as we believed in yours.
John Strain
Harold Custard
Flightline AC, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 12:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N929EH Flies!
News from Saturday.....fellow RV-10 builder Ed Hayden
did his 1st flight out in Hillsboro, OR on Saturday
a.m.! He's got a great looking plane, as you can
see here:
http://www.myrv10.com/osh2/photos/N929EH.jpg
He's got the Flightline AC system installed, which is
one of the things that is unique about his plane.
He reported that the plane flew beautifully, and handled
real well...and he was very pleased with the performance.
The first flight, however, did not go uneventfully,
and here is where y'all should listen closely and prepare
yourself...
Ed has a lightspeed ignition on one side, and a slick mag
on the other, just like I and many other have. In this
case, the lightspeed was once again the one good thing
he had going for him. As I understand it (sorry that
it's 2nd hand) he got to 1000' on takeoff and the plane
started missing real bad....making lots of noise. He
radioed the tower of his problems and immediate need
to return to land. He ran it on the lightspeed only (which
only gives maybe a 10 RPM drop on the mag test) and
said he had a beautiful landing.
Upon having an A&P come over and test the mag, it was
readily determined that this was indeed a slick mag
failure. What ISN'T unique about this is that I now know
of TWO RV-10 builders who've had slick mags fail on
their first flight.
So be aware any time you're flying in these current times
with Slick mags having known problems, and if you get
strange missing, perhaps try running on R or L instead
of Both. It will most likely run much better than having
that failed mag sparking at the wrong times.
Now if they could only get their parts issues figured
out at Unison and do an industry wide recall and
exchange of these mags, or at least provide free
rebuild kits to all owners, it would be a very good
thing indeed. Thank goodness as experimental builders
we have the electronic ignition options we do have...its
becoming one of our great benefits.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
Message 27
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|
I will do my best to NOT shop at Sacto SkyRanch ever again.-- Went in t
here to buy some West System Epoxy Resin and was told they don't stock stuf
f for them Experimental planes!-- See ya!
Don McDonald
#40636
SB done today
--- On Mon, 8/25/08, John Cumins <jcumins@jcis.net> wrote:
From: John Cumins <jcumins@jcis.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
<jcumins@jcis.net>
Sacramento Skyranch has 66-11200 for $16.64 and they do carry the
RA66-11200 but do nut publish there price on line.
There a great place to get parts and reasonable too.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 4:15 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
<dlm46007@cox.net>
I am told that Vans sells the Grove brand and a set of four linings is $33.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 3:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
<coop85@cableone.net>
Yep, I got the e-mail from AS&S and the price is per each lining, $16.95 x
4
- ouch, Van's is getting the order for sure. Rapco has the right part
number in their catalog so they appear to make them, hopefully AS&S will
start carrying them soon but right now they are still showing unavailable.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 7:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
<dlm46007@cox.net>
You can figure about $15 per lining no matter which supplier you buy for
aircraft; it goes on certified aircraft.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake Linings
<coop85@cableone.net>
Thanks, good catch on the part number but I read it as price per lining so
with the new price of $16.95 that would be double Vans price. I have a
question in to AS&S so we'll see. If anyone has confidence that the
price
is per pair please let me know and I'll hit send on the order. My concern
is because there are several airplanes mentioned that need 1 versus 2 of th
e
same part number but the price is the same leading me to believe price is
per lining.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2008 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake Linings
<apilot2@gmail.com>
AS&S shows Cleveland version for 15.60 a pair, under Beech Skipper. So tax
vs shipping would be the tie brake.
On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 12:53 PM, Marcus Cooper <coop85@cableone.net>
wrote:
<coop85@cableone.net>
>
> It's time to replace the brakes and my research has found Tim's
notes
> of requiring Cleveland part# 66-112. However, Vans has a brake kit
> with 4 linings and the rivets for $33. I'm guessing those aren't
> Cleveland parts so I was wondering if anyone knew of RAPCO now had a
> matching part? I'll happily order the parts from Vans, however
I'm a
> lot closer to AS&S and I'd like to save on the shipping since I
have
> to order the brake tool from them anyway.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
>
=0A=0A=0A
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| Subject: | Old fuse, new plans... |
I've been scratching my had trying to figure out how am I going to screw the 6D
bulkhead fittings into a 1 inch hole , where the fuel line exits the fuselage
at the wing root.
I just looked at the plans on Tim's site and as it turns out I have the Revision#2
plans and a Rev #0 fuselage. Even my Fuel selector bracket is different.
Do any of you know why this was changed?
The Rev 2 plans also show an extension rod for the fuel selector.
I guess at this point I should just print Tim's plans and use those.
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0594#200594
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| Subject: | Old fuse, new plans... |
In my plans, the fuel line is one piece from the tank to the fuel valve. I
used a rubber grommet in the 1 inch hole.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 8:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Old fuse, new plans...
I've been scratching my had trying to figure out how am I going to screw the
6D bulkhead fittings into a 1 inch hole , where the fuel line exits the
fuselage at the wing root.
I just looked at the plans on Tim's site and as it turns out I have the
Revision#2 plans and a Rev #0 fuselage. Even my Fuel selector bracket is
different.
Do any of you know why this was changed?
The Rev 2 plans also show an extension rod for the fuel selector.
I guess at this point I should just print Tim's plans and use those.
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0594#200594
Message 30
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RV-10 List,
What are people paying for DAR reviews?
Robin
Airworthiness Certificate in hand...
Message 31
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They can charge what they want, but I think I paid $200-300
plus travel expenses.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> RV-10 List,
> What are people paying for DAR reviews?
>
> Robin
> Airworthiness Certificate in hand...
>
>
Message 32
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Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the
Amateur
Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting
position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about using
it. I
thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the
equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and
powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder
containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at
Fry's
Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the
rubber
duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the unit
on
the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. Seems to
work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on the
internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue
as
required.
Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane
and
wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing
something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the
position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give speed,
heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long,
required
from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the
board
and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the
transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a
cable
made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh and a
trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to fly to
burn up gas but now it to make tracks!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
Message 33
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I plan to do a similar thing. I got my technicians license about a month ago
but have been too busy flying and fixing to think about APRS. Byonics has
developed an AIO (all in one) unit which I plan to power via a switch on the
panel and place the unit and the antenna (a shortened aircraft bent whip) in
the right wing/fuselage fairing. Probably won't get it working before first
annual as I need to remove some interior panels on the right side.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: APRS System
Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the Amateur
Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting
position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about using it. I
thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the
equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and
powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder
containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at Fry's
Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the rubber
duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the unit on
the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. Seems to
work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on the
internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue as
required.
Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane and
wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing
something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the
position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give speed,
heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long, required
from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the board
and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the
transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a cable
made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh and a
trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to fly to
burn up gas but now it to make tracks!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
Message 34
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One very important thing about APRS systems. They are small... I ordered
mine about 2 months ago and can't find where I placed it. I wish I had
an APRS system for my APRS system.
Robin
Do Not Archive
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