Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:47 AM - Re: APRS System (Tim Olson)
2. 04:58 AM - Re: Old fuse, new plans... (MauleDriver)
3. 06:35 AM - Re: APRS System (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 07:53 AM - Re: Old fuse, new plans... (pascal)
5. 08:20 AM - Torque Tube Support Brackets (Ed Godfrey)
6. 08:32 AM - Re: Old fuse, new plans... (William Curtis)
7. 08:47 AM - Re: RV10 Upholstery Shop (pascal)
8. 09:18 AM - Re: Torque Tube Support Brackets (Rick Sked)
9. 09:27 AM - James cowl with a standard IO-540 (John Gonzalez)
10. 09:43 AM - Re: Old fuse, new plans... (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
11. 10:03 AM - Re: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade (pascal)
12. 10:19 AM - Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540 ()
13. 10:33 AM - Re: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade (Tim Olson)
14. 10:46 AM - Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540 (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
15. 11:06 AM - Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540 (gary)
16. 11:17 AM - Re: APRS System ()
17. 11:41 AM - Re: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade (pascal)
18. 11:50 AM - Re: APRS System (Sean Stephens)
19. 11:55 AM - Re: APRS System (Dj Merrill)
20. 12:35 PM - Re: APRS System (Tim Olson)
21. 01:51 PM - Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540 (Robin Marks)
22. 02:11 PM - Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540 (BPA)
23. 03:32 PM - Rudder Pedal Measurements Needed (SteinAir, Inc.)
24. 04:20 PM - Re: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade (John Cumins)
25. 04:47 PM - Fiberglass hazard (McGANN, Ron)
26. 04:47 PM - Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540 (Don McDonald)
27. 04:58 PM - Re: Rudder Pedal Measurements Needed (Chris)
28. 05:53 PM - Re: Fiberglass hazard (gary)
29. 06:04 PM - Fuel Tank Lables (gary)
30. 06:43 PM - Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540 (Lenny Iszak)
31. 06:48 PM - Re: APRS System (John Cox)
32. 07:44 PM - Re: Old fuse, new plans... (Lenny Iszak)
33. 08:37 PM - Re: DAR Costs (Rene)
34. 08:51 PM - Re: Fiberglass hazard (Dave Saylor)
35. 11:21 PM - Re: DAR Costs (Robin Marks)
36. 11:50 PM - Nose Gear Ideas (John Ackerman)
Message 1
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I think things like this are a great benefit to the families and friends
of the traveling RV-10 driver. For once they can know that we're safe
while we travel x/c, and can watch our progress. It also gives them
the ability to know when to leave home to meet us at the airport.
Fantastic little things. I like mine so much I'm thinking of buying
a 2nd one and keeping it more portable, but using it in the car for
those longer drives. The SPOT messenger is also a fantastic choice
if you don't mind paying the annual fees, and don't care about
non-hardwiring it, or external antennas. I tracked Scott all the
way home from OSH and it was great to know he got there OK. The
APRS systems do provide more data than the SPOT system, and at a
more finely defined update rate if you desire.
From a technical standpoint, after flying with the 300mW version,
it looks to me like the most RF and System friendly way for planes
is to keep with the low power systems...not the 8W units. For
a car I'd get an 8W unit. That keeps with the general rule "use only
the power necessary..." that we have to follow. I also think that
units like the all-in-one that are coming, and the ones with the
mini-gps like Alberts are PERFECT for wingtip installation which
would be a great way to go. For many people you'll be able to tap
into an existing GPS signal, even from a panel-mounted 396 or 496,
and you won't even want to buy the external GPS...just string one
small serial wire to it. The pictures Albert put out don't do it
justice as to the small size, either....it's deceiving, but these
things are tiny. They're about the size of a screwdriver handle,
but weigh maybe as much as two AN5 bolts an inch long. Real small.
So even for the weight conscious they're no worry.
Sam Buchanan and Pete Howell are great guys to read on, too.
The stuff is simple enough that simply reading their web write-ups
will give you what you need to buy the hardware. Hooking
it up is simple. Passing the Technicians test is also very
simple with minimal effort....just read the book once and that's
about it.
My guess is we'll see these things really become popular in our
RV groups over the next year or two.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Albert Gardner wrote:
> Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the Amateur
> Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting
> position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about using it. I
> thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the
> equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and
> powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder
> containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at Fry's
> Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the rubber
> duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the unit on
> the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. Seems to
> work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on the
> internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue as
> required.
> Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane and
> wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing
> something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the
> position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give speed,
> heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long, required
> from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the board
> and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the
> transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a cable
> made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh and a
> trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to fly to
> burn up gas but now it to make tracks!
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> N991RV
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Old fuse, new plans... |
I have Rev 1 plans that shows a 1 piece fuel line. I guess I have a Rev
0 QB fuse. In any case, I bought some extra fittings and used some
large aluminum washers to hold the fittings in the large tunnel hole.
Just couldn't make sense out of the single piece fuel line and the
Andair valve I ended up using.
Bill Watson
Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> I've been scratching my had trying to figure out how am I going to screw the
6D bulkhead fittings into a 1 inch hole , where the fuel line exits the fuselage
at the wing root.
>
> I just looked at the plans on Tim's site and as it turns out I have the Revision#2
plans and a Rev #0 fuselage. Even my Fuel selector bracket is different.
>
> Do any of you know why this was changed?
>
> The Rev 2 plans also show an extension rod for the fuel selector.
>
> I guess at this point I should just print Tim's plans and use those.
>
> Regards,
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0594#200594
>
>
>
Message 3
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Like others I plan on putting mine on out in the wingtip and getting the power
from the Nav lights. That way it's off when the Nav lights are which covers
99% of the scenarios I wouldn't want it on.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 11:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: APRS System
Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the Amateur Radio
guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting position. He
had put one in his plane and the article was about using it. I thought it was
the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the equipment and made a transmitter
for myself. I made mine portable and powered it with a battery pack
I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2
meter rubber duck antenna at Fry's Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it
on and off. I taped the rubber duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin
roof and laid the unit on the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the
glare shield. Seems to work great. I like the idea that position is available
real time on the internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue
as required.
Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane and wire
it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing something
I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the position bubble pops
up if you click on any of the dots and give speed, heading, and altitude. The
transmitter is only about 5 inches long, required from 9 to 30V and comes with
a db-9 connector that you solder to the board and than connect the GPS antenna.
It has an SMA connector for the transmitting antenna so you may need either
SMA to BNC adaptors or a cable made up with the required ends. Hey, I have
tracks to/from Oshkosh and a trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back
home. I used to fly to burn up gas but now it to make tracks!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Old fuse, new plans... |
Lenny;
I would discourage you copying Tim's plans that are 2 revisions behind
yours. I would call Van's and ask for insight. You should have all the parts
to go with the plans, if you don't Van's will send you what you are missing.
Last week I had an issue with a piece that wasn't on the packing list at
all, Van's sent me the part without question saying I should have it and
it's on the way. They have been excellent with customer support and tech
support through my build.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 7:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Old fuse, new plans...
>
> I've been scratching my had trying to figure out how am I going to screw
> the 6D bulkhead fittings into a 1 inch hole , where the fuel line exits
> the fuselage at the wing root.
>
> I just looked at the plans on Tim's site and as it turns out I have the
> Revision#2 plans and a Rev #0 fuselage. Even my Fuel selector bracket is
> different.
>
> Do any of you know why this was changed?
>
> The Rev 2 plans also show an extension rod for the fuel selector.
>
> I guess at this point I should just print Tim's plans and use those.
>
> Regards,
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0594#200594
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Torque Tube Support Brackets |
Listers,
Did anyone have any difficulty placing the W-1029A and W1029B Torque
Tube Support Bracket assembly into the W1010-R wing rib? It seems that
the assemble is about 1/16 or greater longer than the space between the
flanges of the rib.
Ed Godfrey
40717
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Old fuse, new plans... |
It sounds like the new revision plans are doing what many builders (Bob Newman
and me) have done and installed bulkhead fittings at the fuselage instead of a
continuous tubing run from selector to tank. I'd really like to see what other
changes they have instituted. Per the previous message from Bob, you probably
want to use a large rubber grommet rather than solid washers as per AC 43,
you do not want tubing between bulkheads without some type of strain relief.
http://www.tcwtech.com/RV-10%20construction%20project.htm
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Lenny;
> I would discourage you copying Tim's plans that are 2 revisions behind
> yours. I would call Van's and ask for insight. You should have all the parts
> to go with the plans, if you don't Van's will send you what you are missing.
> Last week I had an issue with a piece that wasn't on the packing list at
> all, Van's sent me the part without question saying I should have it and
> it's on the way. They have been excellent with customer support and tech
> support through my build.
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 7:19 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Old fuse, new plans...
>
> >
> > I've been scratching my had trying to figure out how am I going to screw
> > the 6D bulkhead fittings into a 1 inch hole , where the fuel line exits
> > the fuselage at the wing root.
> >
> > I just looked at the plans on Tim's site and as it turns out I have the
> > Revision#2 plans and a Rev #0 fuselage. Even my Fuel selector bracket is
> > different.
> >
> > Do any of you know why this was changed?
> >
> > The Rev 2 plans also show an extension rod for the fuel selector.
> >
> > I guess at this point I should just print Tim's plans and use those.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Lenny
> > #40803
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0594#200594
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 Upholstery Shop |
I missed Osh this year so I missed out on seeing your interior, can you
post some pictures of the front and back seats?
Thanks!
Pascal
From: Ronald Grover
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 7:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Upholstery Shop
While at Oshkosh, many folks asked who did my interior, and I didn't
have any of Frank's business cards.
Frank Collins Upholstery is located at Propwash Airport in Justin, TX.
Frank does a really good job and his web site is here:
www.frank-collins-upholstery.com
I can send you a picture if you contact me offline.
Ron Grover
40063
N324RG
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Torque Tube Support Brackets |
Ed,
I think we all ran into this, it is a tight fit, If I recall I polished the top
and bottom of the bracket to a slight curved shape with the scotchbrite wheel
untill it fit perfectly. Once you start to round the edges, it will slide into
place much easier.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Godfrey" <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 8:19:44 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Torque Tube Support Brackets
Listers,
Did anyone have any difficulty placing the W-1029A and W1029B Torque
Tube Support Bracket assembly into the W1010-R wing rib? It seems that
the assemble is about 1/16 or greater longer than the space between the
flanges of the rib.
Ed Godfrey
40717
Message 9
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| Subject: | James cowl with a standard IO-540 |
When I spoke to Sam James several months ago he said that there was only on
e RV10 flying with his cowl and a non cold air induction engine and he was
a little reluctant to say that they had perfected the receipe on the intake
size.
Have any other used this combination or will the original user step forward
and say what size rings they have had success with.
Thanks=2C
John G. 409
Message 10
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| Subject: | Old fuse, new plans... |
That's funny, I had no idea they did that but it's exactly what I ended up doing.
I used a rubber grommet and then captured it between a couple fender washers
to make sure it doesn't go anywhere.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&category=1703&log=57694&row=2
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old fuse, new plans...
It sounds like the new revision plans are doing what many builders (Bob Newman
and me) have done and installed bulkhead fittings at the fuselage instead of a
continuous tubing run from selector to tank. I'd really like to see what other
changes they have instituted. Per the previous message from Bob, you probably
want to use a large rubber grommet rather than solid washers as per AC 43,
you do not want tubing between bulkheads without some type of strain relief.
http://www.tcwtech.com/RV-10%20construction%20project.htm
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade |
Being I am one of those disappointed with Hartzell and their lack of
response, any response at all, I did receive an e-mail back from Kevin
at Hartzell giving me the latest. Rob is right.. it's his partially his
fault they wont talk until getting a final report from him and approval
from Van's to be an OEM. Basically everything Rob already mentioned.
The good news is that Kevin thinks they are close to finalizing the
details for Van's to offer the prop for the RV-10. Pricing was something
they will leave to Van's and had no comment on the range. Because Rob
already has tested the prop on a IO-540 Kevin mentioned that
certification would already be completed and hence leave little delay in
being available for RV-10's once it became avilable.
Price is the only thing standing in the way now..
Pascal
From: RobHickman@aol.com
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
This is partly my fault as I have not finished testing either prop for
them; it was just too hot to fly it against Dan's RV-10 over the weekend
here in Oregon.
Hartzell will not sell a prop until it is approved by the aircraft
manufacturer and Van's will not approve the prop until they get test
data from it. To get a reasonable price on the Harzell prop you are
going to have to get it with an OEM agreement, and that means from
Van's. Getting performance data to Hartzell and Van=99s is at the
top of my list for the RV-4 and RV-10. Hopefully, I=99ll have
data to them this week.
I currently have over 70 hours on the prop in my RV-10 and I would not
trade it for anything. Jennifer and I flew it to Van=99s home
coming on Saturday and as soon as I shut it down we had a number of
people telling me how quiet it was when we taxied in. We flew our
neighbor (who has built aircraft engines for years) home with us in the
RV-10, and he was amazed at how smooth and quiet the plane was with this
prop.
In my opinion, Hartzell is being very responsible for taking this
stand and we should give them the credit that they deserve.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10 IO-540 with three blade Hartzell Composite Prop
N401RH RV-4 IO-360 with two blade Hartzell Composite Prop
In a message dated 8/18/2008 3:23:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rvbuilder@sausen.net writes:
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss is
others gain.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rv@thelefflers.com
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs
up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent
quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If you
mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will ignore
you. :^(
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal
here.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540 |
This was the subject of a conversation I had with Deems Davis and Gary Specketer
at RV-10 HQ at OSH. Deems went the James Cowl route with a Powers alt air mod.
Gary went with a standard Van's cowl and a modified Cessna air filter.
The consensus was if they were to do it again was to to go with a standard Van's
cowl and modify it depending what you are using for air.
Granted this is just a sampling of two opinions.
>
> From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> Date: 2008/08/26 Tue AM 11:26:35 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540
>
>
> When I spoke to Sam James several months ago he said that there was only one
RV10 flying with his cowl and a non cold air induction engine and he was a little
reluctant to say that they had perfected the receipe on the intake size.
>
> Have any other used this combination or will the original user step forward and
say what size rings they have had success with.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John G. 409
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade |
Not that it matters to all people, but the preliminary numbers
that Rob posted this week put the prop definitely behind the
MT for speed, and likely 10kts off from Van's 2-blade hartzell
numbers.
8500 FT
2450 RPM
Full Throttle
169-171 KTS True Airspeed
When buying a prop, there is NO one best choice. Every prop
we can choose will have a tradeoff. Price, smoothness, climb
rate, maintenance, weight or lack thereof, and looks. Climb
speed benefits quickly wash away in cruise if the prop
doesn't cruise as efficiently, and vice versa. Some builders
will want MORE nose weight, and some can't afford to have
any LESS nose weight. So picking a prop depends on so many
individual factors that it may in fact pay to wait until some
other decisions are made before you buy one. If you choose
an avionics and other options list that leaves you nose-heavy,
you could fix it with your prop choice.....or, you could
destroy your CG range by choosing the wrong prop for your
options package.
No, this post doesn't give you much of any useful info to
go on in choosing a prop...that's up to you, your styles,
and your configuration. But, it would be nice to see more
good reports on the performance of the Hartzell, because
right now it looks to be potentially 8-12kts slower than
what Van's puts out for numbers.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
pascal wrote:
> Being I am one of those disappointed with Hartzell and their lack of
> response, any response at all, I did receive an e-mail back from Kevin
> at Hartzell giving me the latest. Rob is right.. it's his partially
> his fault they wont talk until getting a final report from him and
> approval from Van's to be an OEM. Basically everything Rob already
> mentioned.
> The good news is that Kevin thinks they are close to finalizing the
> details for Van's to offer the prop for the RV-10. Pricing was something
> they will leave to Van's and had no comment on the range. Because Rob
> already has tested the prop on a IO-540 Kevin mentioned that
> certification would already be completed and hence leave little delay in
> being available for RV-10's once it became avilable.
> Price is the only thing standing in the way now..
>
> Pascal
>
>
> *From:* RobHickman@aol.com <mailto:RobHickman@aol.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, August 18, 2008 5:42 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
>
> This is partly my fault as I have not finished testing either prop for
> them; it was just too hot to fly it against Dan's RV-10 over the weekend
> here in Oregon.
>
>
>
> Hartzell will not sell a prop until it is approved by the aircraft
> manufacturer and Van's will not approve the prop until they get test
> data from it. To get a reasonable price on the Harzell prop you are
> going to have to get it with an OEM agreement, and that means from
> Van's. Getting performance data to Hartzell and Vans is at the top of
> my list for the RV-4 and RV-10. Hopefully, Ill have data to them
> this week.
>
>
>
> I currently have over 70 hours on the prop in my RV-10 and I would not
> trade it for anything. Jennifer and I flew it to Vans home coming on
> Saturday and as soon as I shut it down we had a number of people telling
> me how quiet it was when we taxied in. We flew our neighbor (who has
> built aircraft engines for years) home with us in the RV-10, and he was
> amazed at how smooth and quiet the plane was with this prop.
>
>
>
> In my opinion, Hartzell is being very responsible for taking this
> stand and we should give them the credit that they deserve.
>
>
>
> Rob Hickman
>
>
>
> N402RH RV-10 IO-540 with three blade Hartzell Composite Prop
>
> N401RH RV-4 IO-360 with two blade Hartzell Composite Prop
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 8/18/2008 3:23:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> rvbuilder@sausen.net writes:
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss
> is others gain.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> rv@thelefflers.com
> Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
>
>
> Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs
> up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent
> quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If
> you mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will
> ignore you. :^(
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> It's only a deal if it's where /you/ want to go. Find your travel deal
> *here* <http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047>.
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 14
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| Subject: | James cowl with a standard IO-540 |
One thing I would throw in there for the non-fiberglass savvy is that both Gary
and Deems have fairly extensive experience with glass given they both previously
have built glass aircraft. Either cowl will require some modifications.
The good news is if you go with a James cowl, Barrett cold air, and the Rod
Bower FAB, Rod has a mold taken from the work that Deems did to his James cowl
and the induction so you can get a molded part to minimize your rework. Here
is Rod's link:
http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv@thelefflers.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540
This was the subject of a conversation I had with Deems Davis and Gary Specketer
at RV-10 HQ at OSH. Deems went the James Cowl route with a Powers alt air mod.
Gary went with a standard Van's cowl and a modified Cessna air filter.
The consensus was if they were to do it again was to to go with a standard Van's
cowl and modify it depending what you are using for air.
Granted this is just a sampling of two opinions.
Message 15
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| Subject: | James cowl with a standard IO-540 |
It has always been my opinion that fiberglass is such a forgiving medium
that all that is required for good results is the willingness to grind away
what you don't like and reglass new stuff to make it like you want.
Like anything it is a learned skill, just keep trying and have fun.
Gary Specketer
40274 flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
One thing I would throw in there for the non-fiberglass savvy is that both
Gary and Deems have fairly extensive experience with glass given they both
previously have built glass aircraft. Either cowl will require some
modifications. The good news is if you go with a James cowl, Barrett cold
air, and the Rod Bower FAB, Rod has a mold taken from the work that Deems
did to his James cowl and the induction so you can get a molded part to
minimize your rework. Here is Rod's link:
http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
rv@thelefflers.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540
This was the subject of a conversation I had with Deems Davis and Gary
Specketer at RV-10 HQ at OSH. Deems went the James Cowl route with a Powers
alt air mod. Gary went with a standard Van's cowl and a modified Cessna air
filter.
The consensus was if they were to do it again was to to go with a standard
Van's cowl and modify it depending what you are using for air.
Granted this is just a sampling of two opinions.
Message 16
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Don't you also need to be a licensed Ham to do this?
Broadcast is on a 2 meter Ham frequency.
Jim C
N312F
===========================================================
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Subject: RV10-List: APRS System
Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the Amateur
Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting
position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about using it. I
thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the
equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and
powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder
containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at Fry's
Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the rubber
duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the unit on
the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. Seems to
work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on the
internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue as
required.
Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane and
wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing
something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the
position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give speed,
heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long, required
from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the board
and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the
transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a cable
made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh and a
trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to fly to
burn up gas but now it to make tracks!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
===========================================================
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade |
Interesting, I actually heard from one person who told me " I spoke to Rob
Hickman at Oshkosh to get an idea of the 3-blade composite prop performance
on his trip to OSH from Oregon. He told me that he was able to keep up with
is buddy that was flying an RV-10 with the 2-blade prop. The difference
being that Rob was about 500 lbs. heavier since he was carrying his family
and luggage. I think Rob was very pleased with the performance of the
3-blade prop."
Rob is searching for that MT in Portland to do a comparo, but I figured if
the information I received on Rob's trip to OSH is accurate that tells me it
can keep up with a 2 blade.
Your points are good ones about prop choice.
Rob
Thoughts?
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
>
> Not that it matters to all people, but the preliminary numbers
> that Rob posted this week put the prop definitely behind the
> MT for speed, and likely 10kts off from Van's 2-blade hartzell
> numbers.
>
> 8500 FT
> 2450 RPM
> Full Throttle
> 169-171 KTS True Airspeed
>
>
> When buying a prop, there is NO one best choice. Every prop
> we can choose will have a tradeoff. Price, smoothness, climb
> rate, maintenance, weight or lack thereof, and looks. Climb
> speed benefits quickly wash away in cruise if the prop
> doesn't cruise as efficiently, and vice versa. Some builders
> will want MORE nose weight, and some can't afford to have
> any LESS nose weight. So picking a prop depends on so many
> individual factors that it may in fact pay to wait until some
> other decisions are made before you buy one. If you choose
> an avionics and other options list that leaves you nose-heavy,
> you could fix it with your prop choice.....or, you could
> destroy your CG range by choosing the wrong prop for your
> options package.
>
> No, this post doesn't give you much of any useful info to
> go on in choosing a prop...that's up to you, your styles,
> and your configuration. But, it would be nice to see more
> good reports on the performance of the Hartzell, because
> right now it looks to be potentially 8-12kts slower than
> what Van's puts out for numbers.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> pascal wrote:
>> Being I am one of those disappointed with Hartzell and their lack of
>> response, any response at all, I did receive an e-mail back from Kevin at
>> Hartzell giving me the latest. Rob is right.. it's his partially his
>> fault they wont talk until getting a final report from him and approval
>> from Van's to be an OEM. Basically everything Rob already mentioned.
>> The good news is that Kevin thinks they are close to finalizing the
>> details for Van's to offer the prop for the RV-10. Pricing was something
>> they will leave to Van's and had no comment on the range. Because Rob
>> already has tested the prop on a IO-540 Kevin mentioned that
>> certification would already be completed and hence leave little delay in
>> being available for RV-10's once it became avilable.
>> Price is the only thing standing in the way now..
>> Pascal
>> *From:* RobHickman@aol.com <mailto:RobHickman@aol.com>
>> *Sent:* Monday, August 18, 2008 5:42 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
>>
>> This is partly my fault as I have not finished testing either prop for
>> them; it was just too hot to fly it against Dan's RV-10 over the weekend
>> here in Oregon.
>>
>> Hartzell will not sell a prop until it is approved by the aircraft
>> manufacturer and Van's will not approve the prop until they get test data
>> from it. To get a reasonable price on the Harzell prop you are going to
>> have to get it with an OEM agreement, and that means from Van's. Getting
>> performance data to Hartzell and Vans is at the top of my list for the
>> RV-4 and RV-10. Hopefully, Ill have data to them this week.
>>
>> I currently have over 70 hours on the prop in my RV-10 and I would not
>> trade it for anything. Jennifer and I flew it to Vans home coming on
>> Saturday and as soon as I shut it down we had a number of people telling
>> me how quiet it was when we taxied in. We flew our neighbor (who has
>> built aircraft engines for years) home with us in the RV-10, and he was
>> amazed at how smooth and quiet the plane was with this prop.
>>
>> In my opinion, Hartzell is being very responsible for taking this
>> stand and we should give them the credit that they deserve.
>>
>> Rob Hickman
>>
>> N402RH RV-10 IO-540 with three blade Hartzell Composite Prop
>>
>> N401RH RV-4 IO-360 with two blade Hartzell Composite Prop
>>
>> In a message dated 8/18/2008 3:23:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> rvbuilder@sausen.net writes:
>>
>> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>>
>> Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss
>> is others gain.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> rv@thelefflers.com
>> Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
>>
>>
>> Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs
>> up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent
>> quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If
>> you mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will
>> ignore you. :^(
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> It's only a deal if it's where /you/ want to go. Find your travel deal
>> *here*
>> <http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047>.
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
Message 18
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See the following:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/tracker.htm
Sam has a great site there that applies to more than just his RV6.
On Aug 26, 2008, at 1:16 PM, <jim@CombsFive.Com> <jim@CombsFive.Com>
wrote:
>
> Don't you also need to be a licensed Ham to do this?
>
> Broadcast is on a 2 meter Ham frequency.
>
> Jim C
> N312F
>
> ===========================================================
> From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
> Date: 2008/08/26 Tue AM 12:20:55 EDT
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: APRS System
>
> Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the
> Amateur
> Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting
> position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about
> using it. I
> thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the
> equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and
> powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder
> containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at
> Fry's
> Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the
> rubber
> duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the
> unit on
> the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield.
> Seems to
> work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on
> the
> internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/
> rescue as
> required.
> Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the
> plane and
> wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm
> doing
> something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the
> position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give
> speed,
> heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long,
> required
> from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the
> board
> and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the
> transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a
> cable
> made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh
> and a
> trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to
> fly to
> burn up gas but now it to make tracks!
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> N991RV
>
> ===========================================================
>
>
Message 19
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jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
>
> Don't you also need to be a licensed Ham to do this?
>
> Broadcast is on a 2 meter Ham frequency.
>
Yes, you do. It is a federal violation if you transmit on those
frequencies without an amateur radio license. It is also very easy to
pass the test to get your ham license, so there really isn't any
excuse. Anyone that can get a pilot's license should have no trouble
getting a ham license:
<http://www.hello-radio.org/hello/doityourself.html>
-Dj
N1JOV
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
Message 20
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I'll echo that.... it took me like 2 or 3 hours of reading
MAX, and ONE practice test....and $14. That's good for
10 years, and on renewal it's just pay-the-fee. You will
definitely want to read the book before taking the test, but
it's easy to pass if you do that.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
>>
>> Don't you also need to be a licensed Ham to do this?
>>
>> Broadcast is on a 2 meter Ham frequency.
>>
>
> Yes, you do. It is a federal violation if you transmit on those
> frequencies without an amateur radio license. It is also very easy to
> pass the test to get your ham license, so there really isn't any
> excuse. Anyone that can get a pilot's license should have no trouble
> getting a ham license:
> <http://www.hello-radio.org/hello/doityourself.html>
>
> -Dj
> N1JOV
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | James cowl with a standard IO-540 |
Danger Will Robinson, Danger Will Robinson!
Michael it would be great if life were that simple... For those that
don't know I have:
* BPE IO-540 w/ Cold Induction
* James Plenum Installed
* James Cowl Installed
* Airworthiness certificate in hand
* First flight ~2 weeks
Sheril & I spoke extensively with Rod (amazing builder) before & during
OSH this year and there is NO good news. There is absolutely no way that
Rod's unit will work with the James cowl and the BPE Cold Induction. The
space between the standard "Smile" air inlet and the injector body is
just too short. The angles are all wrong and the spun canister conflicts
in a major way with components on the underside of the engine and the
lower cowl. A major modification to the James cowl much like Deems did
would be required. Our goal was to leave the "Smile" air inlet shape
unaltered.
Also of note there are a couple of different Forward Facing Cold Air
Induction systems available from BPE. I happen to have the latest design
which is different from Deems. Additionally there are different Injector
Body sizes. Mine is 3.75" known as the Model 300 while Deems has the
Model 200 which is 3.25". (sizes by memory). James did not know about
the different Cold Induction systems or the different size Injector Body
units. His response was "REALLY? Can you measure again?". One additional
note is that both James have a bit of 2 week-itus. They have been
waiting for a customer to develop a system and then send them a copy to
use as a basis for designing their system. IMHO you have a shaky
business model if you require your customers to be responsible for your
R&D.
The largest challenge with the James cowl installation is the air box.
We believe we have come up with a solution that is simple and straight
forward. Our design is not 100% complete and I don't have photos (yet)
of the transition from the Injector body to the Air Filter but I should
have them soon. Attached are photos of the forward portion of the air
box / filter mounted to the cowl very close to the air inlet. The angle
of the filter allows us to drop the lower cowl away from the portion of
the air box attached to the injector body. Note that the injector body
is less than 3" away from the filter. If anyone saw the Bower unit there
is no way it would come close to fitting in this space.
General notes on the James Cowl. Deems has a good write up on general
fit however we seemed to have different issues when fitting our cowl.
There was absolutely no way to get the lower cowl to fit as is. We could
get the front & right to fit but not the left. Or the left & front to
fit but not the right. We fussed with it for 2 days with no luck. When
all else fails pull out the saw! We split the lower cowl on the
centerline of the cowl starting from the exhaust outlet (nose wheel leg
slot) and ending up 5-6 inches from the scoop. This large split allowed
us to easily fit all sides and give the cowl enough "relief" to attach
w/o any tension. 2 hours total time once we chose this path. All that
was left to do was patch the "V" void and the cowl fit perfectly. (Cowl
Filter 3.jpg shows the lower cowl split patch)
I am unable to comment on the standard cowl with the any combination
mentioned.
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 440 Hours
RV-10 Soon
RV-8A Purchased partially built
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
One thing I would throw in there for the non-fiberglass savvy is that
both Gary and Deems have fairly extensive experience with glass given
they both previously have built glass aircraft. Either cowl will
require some modifications. The good news is if you go with a James
cowl, Barrett cold air, and the Rod Bower FAB, Rod has a mold taken from
the work that Deems did to his James cowl and the induction so you can
get a molded part to minimize your rework. Here is Rod's link:
http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html
Michael
Message 22
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| Subject: | James cowl with a standard IO-540 |
The only difference in the 2 systems that Robin mentions is how the
intake pipes mount to the plenum chamber. On Deems and a few others
(Michael), the intake pipes connect with a 72711 o-ring. With the
revision A plenum, we have swedged a 1-5/8 pipe to the plenum and secure
the intake pipe with a hose and 2 clamps. This makes for a better
connection and gives a small increase in HP. However, it does not change
the location of the plenum or the servo.
Allen Barrett
BPE, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 2:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540
Danger Will Robinson, Danger Will Robinson!
Michael it would be great if life were that simple... For those that
don't know I have:
* BPE IO-540 w/ Cold Induction
* James Plenum Installed
* James Cowl Installed
* Airworthiness certificate in hand
* First flight ~2 weeks
Sheril & I spoke extensively with Rod (amazing builder) before & during
OSH this year and there is NO good news. There is absolutely no way that
Rod's unit will work with the James cowl and the BPE Cold Induction. The
space between the standard "Smile" air inlet and the injector body is
just too short. The angles are all wrong and the spun canister conflicts
in a major way with components on the underside of the engine and the
lower cowl. A major modification to the James cowl much like Deems did
would be required. Our goal was to leave the "Smile" air inlet shape
unaltered.
Also of note there are a couple of different Forward Facing Cold Air
Induction systems available from BPE. I happen to have the latest design
which is different from Deems. Additionally there are different Injector
Body sizes. Mine is 3.75" known as the Model 300 while Deems has the
Model 200 which is 3.25". (sizes by memory). James did not know about
the different Cold Induction systems or the different size Injector Body
units. His response was "REALLY? Can you measure again?". One additional
note is that both James have a bit of 2 week-itus. They have been
waiting for a customer to develop a system and then send them a copy to
use as a basis for designing their system. IMHO you have a shaky
business model if you require your customers to be responsible for your
R&D.
The largest challenge with the James cowl installation is the air box.
We believe we have come up with a solution that is simple and straight
forward. Our design is not 100% complete and I don't have photos (yet)
of the transition from the Injector body to the Air Filter but I should
have them soon. Attached are photos of the forward portion of the air
box / filter mounted to the cowl very close to the air inlet. The angle
of the filter allows us to drop the lower cowl away from the portion of
the air box attached to the injector body. Note that the injector body
is less than 3" away from the filter. If anyone saw the Bower unit there
is no way it would come close to fitting in this space.
General notes on the James Cowl. Deems has a good write up on general
fit however we seemed to have different issues when fitting our cowl.
There was absolutely no way to get the lower cowl to fit as is. We could
get the front & right to fit but not the left. Or the left & front to
fit but not the right. We fussed with it for 2 days with no luck. When
all else fails pull out the saw! We split the lower cowl on the
centerline of the cowl starting from the exhaust outlet (nose wheel leg
slot) and ending up 5-6 inches from the scoop. This large split allowed
us to easily fit all sides and give the cowl enough "relief" to attach
w/o any tension. 2 hours total time once we chose this path. All that
was left to do was patch the "V" void and the cowl fit perfectly. (Cowl
Filter 3.jpg shows the lower cowl split patch)
I am unable to comment on the standard cowl with the any combination
mentioned.
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 440 Hours
RV-10 Soon
RV-8A Purchased partially built
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
One thing I would throw in there for the non-fiberglass savvy is that
both Gary and Deems have fairly extensive experience with glass given
they both previously have built glass aircraft. Either cowl will
require some modifications. The good news is if you go with a James
cowl, Barrett cold air, and the Rod Bower FAB, Rod has a mold taken from
the work that Deems did to his James cowl and the induction so you can
get a molded part to minimize your rework. Here is Rod's link:
http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/ramair.html
Michael
Message 23
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| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Measurements Needed |
Hi All,
I'm wondering if one of you builders can do me a quick favor. I'm in need
of the following measurements for the RV-10 Rudder pedals.
1) Overall width of the main upper bars from outside to outside.
2) Height/length that the pedals hand down from the main bars. Not the
physical pedal itself, but the measurement of the actual tubing. Basically
from the upper main tubes to the bottom of the smaller tubes that make up
the rectangular mount for the pedals.
Overall I need to know the sizes as if one were going to possibly consider
mounting these things in a plane. Need to know width and height!
Thanks a bunch,
Stein
Do Not Archive - it's useless to anyone else....
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade |
Tim
I know you have the 2 blade prop on your plane, what are the tas numbers
that you see in thee same conditions.
Inquiring minds need to know.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
Not that it matters to all people, but the preliminary numbers
that Rob posted this week put the prop definitely behind the
MT for speed, and likely 10kts off from Van's 2-blade hartzell
numbers.
8500 FT
2450 RPM
Full Throttle
169-171 KTS True Airspeed
When buying a prop, there is NO one best choice. Every prop
we can choose will have a tradeoff. Price, smoothness, climb
rate, maintenance, weight or lack thereof, and looks. Climb
speed benefits quickly wash away in cruise if the prop
doesn't cruise as efficiently, and vice versa. Some builders
will want MORE nose weight, and some can't afford to have
any LESS nose weight. So picking a prop depends on so many
individual factors that it may in fact pay to wait until some
other decisions are made before you buy one. If you choose
an avionics and other options list that leaves you nose-heavy,
you could fix it with your prop choice.....or, you could
destroy your CG range by choosing the wrong prop for your
options package.
No, this post doesn't give you much of any useful info to
go on in choosing a prop...that's up to you, your styles,
and your configuration. But, it would be nice to see more
good reports on the performance of the Hartzell, because
right now it looks to be potentially 8-12kts slower than
what Van's puts out for numbers.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
pascal wrote:
> Being I am one of those disappointed with Hartzell and their lack of
> response, any response at all, I did receive an e-mail back from Kevin
> at Hartzell giving me the latest. Rob is right.. it's his partially
> his fault they wont talk until getting a final report from him and
> approval from Van's to be an OEM. Basically everything Rob already
> mentioned.
> The good news is that Kevin thinks they are close to finalizing the
> details for Van's to offer the prop for the RV-10. Pricing was something
> they will leave to Van's and had no comment on the range. Because Rob
> already has tested the prop on a IO-540 Kevin mentioned that
> certification would already be completed and hence leave little delay in
> being available for RV-10's once it became avilable.
> Price is the only thing standing in the way now..
>
> Pascal
>
>
> *From:* RobHickman@aol.com <mailto:RobHickman@aol.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, August 18, 2008 5:42 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
>
> This is partly my fault as I have not finished testing either prop for
> them; it was just too hot to fly it against Dan's RV-10 over the weekend
> here in Oregon.
>
>
>
> Hartzell will not sell a prop until it is approved by the aircraft
> manufacturer and Van's will not approve the prop until they get test
> data from it. To get a reasonable price on the Harzell prop you are
> going to have to get it with an OEM agreement, and that means from
> Van's. Getting performance data to Hartzell and Van's is at the top of
> my list for the RV-4 and RV-10. Hopefully, I'll have data to them
> this week.
>
>
>
> I currently have over 70 hours on the prop in my RV-10 and I would not
> trade it for anything. Jennifer and I flew it to Van's home coming on
> Saturday and as soon as I shut it down we had a number of people telling
> me how quiet it was when we taxied in. We flew our neighbor (who has
> built aircraft engines for years) home with us in the RV-10, and he was
> amazed at how smooth and quiet the plane was with this prop.
>
>
>
> In my opinion, Hartzell is being very responsible for taking this
> stand and we should give them the credit that they deserve.
>
>
>
> Rob Hickman
>
>
>
> N402RH RV-10 IO-540 with three blade Hartzell Composite Prop
>
> N401RH RV-4 IO-360 with two blade Hartzell Composite Prop
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 8/18/2008 3:23:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> rvbuilder@sausen.net writes:
>
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Glad MT and AeroComposite don't take that stance. Hartzell's loss
> is others gain.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> rv@thelefflers.com
> Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:05 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade
>
>
> Unfortunately, Hartzell won't say anything until they get the thumbs
> up from Van's. Our chapter just did a factory tour and they spent
> quite a bit of time on the approval process on what they sell. If
> you mention RV and it's not on the Van's approved list, they will
> ignore you. :^(
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> It's only a deal if it's where /you/ want to go. Find your travel deal
> *here*
<http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047>.
>
> *
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 25
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| Subject: | Fiberglass hazard |
Folks,
Feel compelled to write something to warn others of the hazards of
fiberglass. Bit of background, I am early 50's healthy as a Malley Bull
(sorry that's an Ozzie term) and apart from the occasional sniffle, have
never been crook. The only real fibergalss work I have ever done is on
the -10. I have always used a dust mask when sanding the glass parts,
but did not worry about eye protection 'cause I was wearing specs for up
close work.
Over the past 6 months, I have been heavily involved in finishing the
glass (cabin top, wing tips, fairing etc). The first four months were
issue free. Symptoms of dust exposure began with clogged sinuses about
two months ago (easily fixed by using a mask and keeping the shop
vacuumed). In recent weeks I have noticed some irritation around the
eyes after sanding the glass. This irritation has now blown into a
significant allergy in my eyes - not a good thing for a pilot! Spent
some time doing some final sanding for paint on Friday, had very sore
eyes (lids) on Saturday and woke on Sunday to find my eyelids swollen
such that I could barely open my eyes.
Fibergalss dust is nasty s&*t. Almost all will use a mask. I did not
use full coverage goggles because of my eye glasses - get a pair of
goggles that cover your specs (if you need them) to keep the dust out!
I had heard (but did not believe) that the body's resistance to toxins
erodes gradually. You think you are suffering no ill effects until -
bang!, your resistance is gone, and this stuff really makes you crook.
I now BELIEVE!!
Treat this crap like asbestos; wear a mask, wear protective goggles,
make sure you get the dust off your clothes, keep the shop vacuumed.
And do this 10 fold when dealing with paint and paint dust (especially
epoxies and isocyanates). Many will say this is obvious, but a personal
anecdote may hopefully prevent someone else from future health issues.
Cheers,
Ron
187 paint prep.
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540 |
Ok, I'll fess up with what we did.- For cold air induction we used the st
d Vans cowling.... but also purchased a scoop with K&N filter kit that they
use on the F1 Rocket.- I have quite a few pics on the process... so if a
nyone wants more let me know.- Attached are the basics.
Don McDonald
#40636
--- On Tue, 8/26/08, rv@thelefflers.com <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
From: rv@thelefflers.com <rv@thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540
This was the subject of a conversation I had with Deems Davis and Gary
Specketer at RV-10 HQ at OSH. Deems went the James Cowl route with a Power
s alt
air mod. Gary went with a standard Van's cowl and a modified Cessna air
filter.
The consensus was if they were to do it again was to to go with a standard
Van's cowl and modify it depending what you are using for air.
Granted this is just a sampling of two opinions.
>
> From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
> Date: 2008/08/26 Tue AM 11:26:35 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: James cowl with a standard IO-540
>
>
> When I spoke to Sam James several months ago he said that there was only
one RV10 flying with his cowl and a non cold air induction engine and he wa
s a
little reluctant to say that they had perfected the receipe on the intake s
ize.
>
> Have any other used this combination or will the original user step
forward and say what size rings they have had success with.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John G. 409
>
=0A=0A=0A
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Measurements Needed |
I get from top of tube to rudder pedal bottom tube 11 3/8 inch this
outside of tube measurement not center to center or anything.
Then 41 1/8 inch over all tube length
-Chris Lucas
#40072 (pedal assembly sitting next to computer)
----- Original Message -----
From: SteinAir, Inc.
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 6:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Measurements Needed
Hi All,
I'm wondering if one of you builders can do me a quick favor. I'm in
need of the following measurements for the RV-10 Rudder pedals.
1) Overall width of the main upper bars from outside to outside.
2) Height/length that the pedals hand down from the main bars. Not
the physical pedal itself, but the measurement of the actual tubing.
Basically from the upper main tubes to the bottom of the smaller tubes
that make up the rectangular mount for the pedals.
Overall I need to know the sizes as if one were going to possibly
consider mounting these things in a plane. Need to know width and
height!
Thanks a bunch,
Stein
Do Not Archive - it's useless to anyone else....
Message 28
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| Subject: | Fiberglass hazard |
I am sorry to hear of your allergic reaction. A small % of folks react to
either the resin or the fibers. This is not a wide spread phenomenon. In
my experience over 40 years of working with the stuff and as safety director
of a research facility,
I have seen it only a few times. I know this doesn't make you feel better,
but I don't want folks to think that epoxy is universally bad news. As with
any chemical take it slow, wear protection and use good safety practices.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 6:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass hazard
Folks,
Feel compelled to write something to warn others of the hazards of
fiberglass. Bit of background, I am early 50's healthy as a Malley Bull
(sorry that's an Ozzie term) and apart from the occasional sniffle, have
never been crook. The only real fibergalss work I have ever done is on the
-10. I have always used a dust mask when sanding the glass parts, but did
not worry about eye protection 'cause I was wearing specs for up close work.
Over the past 6 months, I have been heavily involved in finishing the glass
(cabin top, wing tips, fairing etc). The first four months were issue free.
Symptoms of dust exposure began with clogged sinuses about two months ago
(easily fixed by using a mask and keeping the shop vacuumed). In recent
weeks I have noticed some irritation around the eyes after sanding the
glass. This irritation has now blown into a significant allergy in my eyes
- not a good thing for a pilot! Spent some time doing some final sanding
for paint on Friday, had very sore eyes (lids) on Saturday and woke on
Sunday to find my eyelids swollen such that I could barely open my eyes.
Fibergalss dust is nasty s&*t. Almost all will use a mask. I did not use
full coverage goggles because of my eye glasses - get a pair of goggles that
cover your specs (if you need them) to keep the dust out! I had heard (but
did not believe) that the body's resistance to toxins erodes gradually. You
think you are suffering no ill effects until - bang!, your resistance is
gone, and this stuff really makes you crook. I now BELIEVE!!
Treat this crap like asbestos; wear a mask, wear protective goggles, make
sure you get the dust off your clothes, keep the shop vacuumed. And do this
10 fold when dealing with paint and paint dust (especially epoxies and
isocyanates). Many will say this is obvious, but a personal anecdote may
hopefully prevent someone else from future health issues.
Cheers,
Ron
187 paint prep.
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Lables |
I had some fuel tank labels made and have a few extras I am willing to part
with. They fit nicely around the cap and I will let them go for $12/pair
shipping included.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: James cowl with a standard IO-540 |
Don,
Where did you get that scoop? I was thinking about using something like that with
the James Cowl. Just to have that "Rocket smile" :)
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0803#200803
Message 31
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Yes, but when Wi-Fi and telephoney go down it will still be up. You
Facebook generation types you might have to watch a Mickey Rooney moviee
from Netflix when he played Andy Hardy to get the full impact.
Hurricane Katrina drove the point over the top again.
W7COX
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of
jim@CombsFive.Com
Sent: Tue 8/26/2008 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: APRS System
Don't you also need to be a licensed Ham to do this?
Broadcast is on a 2 meter Ham frequency.
Jim C
N312F
=========
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Subject: RV10-List: APRS System
Sam Buchanan wrote an article for Kit Planes (Aug. 2008) about the
Amateur
Radio guys (hams) and a system they had for automatically reporting
position. He had put one in his plane and the article was about using
it. I
thought it was the neatest thing I had seen for some time so I got the
equipment and made a transmitter for myself. I made mine portable and
powered it with a battery pack I got at Radio Shack (a plastic holder
containing 8 AA batteries) and got a 2 meter rubber duck antenna at
Fry's
Electronics. The switch is so I can turn it on and off. I taped the
rubber
duck antenna to the shoulder belt near the cabin roof and laid the unit
on
the rear seat with the GPS antenna laying on the glare shield. Seems to
work great. I like the idea that position is available real time on the
internet and friends/family can track and anticipate your arrival/rescue
as
required.
Total cost is under $300 and the next step is to mount it in the plane
and
wire it into the plans 12V system with a switch just in case I'm doing
something I would not like recorded. On the picture on the track the
position bubble pops up if you click on any of the dots and give speed,
heading, and altitude. The transmitter is only about 5 inches long,
required
from 9 to 30V and comes with a db-9 connector that you solder to the
board
and than connect the GPS antenna. It has an SMA connector for the
transmitting antenna so you may need either SMA to BNC adaptors or a
cable
made up with the required ends. Hey, I have tracks to/from Oshkosh and a
trip from Yuma thru CA to Oregon, Idaho, and back home. I used to fly to
burn up gas but now it to make tracks!
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
=========
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Old fuse, new plans... |
William,
I like the idea of using the bushings because I want to run flexible fuel lines
to the wing root.
Do you know if anyone sells them, or do i have to make my own?
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0822#200822
Message 33
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I paid $425.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: DAR Costs
RV-10 List,
What are people paying for DAR reviews?
Robin
Airworthiness Certificate in hand...
Message 34
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| Subject: | Fiberglass hazard |
Ron,
Sorry to hear about that. I hope you can finish up and still enjoy at least
part of the process.
I once got a rash from some carbon I was cutting, but it disappeared and
never came back. Now I'm more careful with the dust. I think you're on the
right track--once you kind of fill your personal resistance reservoir, it
overflows quickly. In 10 years and with at least 50 customers and employees
exposed, I've only seen one other reaction that I'm sure of; there's
annecdotal evidence of a few more, similar to yours.
As Gary pointed out, it could be to the fiberglass or to the resin. Farm
out the rest if you can. A lot of aircraft paint shops are pretty good with
fiberglass finishing.
Good Luck,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 4:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass hazard
Folks,
Feel compelled to write something to warn others of the hazards of
fiberglass. Bit of background, I am early 50's healthy as a Malley Bull
(sorry that's an Ozzie term) and apart from the occasional sniffle, have
never been crook. The only real fibergalss work I have ever done is on the
-10. I have always used a dust mask when sanding the glass parts, but did
not worry about eye protection 'cause I was wearing specs for up close work.
Over the past 6 months, I have been heavily involved in finishing the glass
(cabin top, wing tips, fairing etc). The first four months were issue free.
Symptoms of dust exposure began with clogged sinuses about two months ago
(easily fixed by using a mask and keeping the shop vacuumed). In recent
weeks I have noticed some irritation around the eyes after sanding the
glass. This irritation has now blown into a significant allergy in my eyes
- not a good thing for a pilot! Spent some time doing some final sanding
for paint on Friday, had very sore eyes (lids) on Saturday and woke on
Sunday to find my eyelids swollen such that I could barely open my eyes.
Fibergalss dust is nasty s&*t. Almost all will use a mask. I did not use
full coverage goggles because of my eye glasses - get a pair of goggles that
cover your specs (if you need them) to keep the dust out! I had heard (but
did not believe) that the body's resistance to toxins erodes gradually. You
think you are suffering no ill effects until - bang!, your resistance is
gone, and this stuff really makes you crook. I now BELIEVE!!
Treat this crap like asbestos; wear a mask, wear protective goggles, make
sure you get the dust off your clothes, keep the shop vacuumed. And do this
10 fold when dealing with paint and paint dust (especially epoxies and
isocyanates). Many will say this is obvious, but a personal anecdote may
hopefully prevent someone else from future health issues.
Cheers,
Ron
187 paint prep.
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 35
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|
Thanks Rene, mine was $450 plus $0.75/mile totaling $675.00. 6 hours of
driving round trip. YUCK. Hay you're a DAR, why don't you fly here?
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 8:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: DAR Costs
I paid $425.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 9:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: DAR Costs
RV-10 List,
What are people paying for DAR reviews?
Robin
Airworthiness Certificate in hand...
Message 36
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|
There has been quite a bit of discussion about the need to frequently
re-tighten the nose gear castle nut, especially when the plane is new,
and there seems to be some consensus that this is due to =93parts
wearing in=94.
One of us suggested that the Belleville washers be lapped to expedite
the break in. This seemed pretty sensible, even if the washers don't
move against each other much. I lapped ours lightly using SiC paper
wet on a glass plate, starting with 180 grit. Very little effort
produced a nice smooth contact surface.
More recently, our local RV Guru and multiple repeat offender pointed
out that he has had to flatten the part equivalent to the WD-1031 Axle
Flange on RVs that he has built. This part bears and moves on the
bronze bushing of the nose fork assembly, and undoubtedly wears into
that bushing. Ideally, the flat of the 1031 flange and the surface of
the bronze are well-mated and distribute the forces evenly. WD-1031 is
a weldment ' essentially, a steel tube is welded into a hole in a flat
plate. You wouldn=92t expect it to be really flat and square. We
disassembled the nose gear and inspected the =93flat=94 surface. It was
not. The tube protruded from the flat surface perhaps 0.030=94 at the
front sides and was recessed maybe 0.015" across the back, and the
flat was slightly warped (as would be expected).
I lapped the flat of the WD-1031 flange using the same technique as
for the Belleville washers, but removing a great deal more material.
The protrusion and most of the warpage came off fairly quickly, but to
get at the recessed surface, it was necessary to remove metal from the
whole flat surface. That is slow. The photos show the surface in the
early stages of flattening (the gray is the painted surface of the
part; most of the protrusion is gone) and at the end of the process
where most of the recess and all of my patience had been removed. J A
leather glove is strongly recommended!
The nose wheel now casters much more smoothly than before, and when
it=92s greased, the grease emerges evenly all around, rather than in one
spot.
John Ackerman 40458
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