Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:18 AM - In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler (Geico266)
2. 06:56 AM - Re: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler (David McNeill)
3. 08:12 AM - Re: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler (William Curtis)
4. 09:21 AM - Re: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler (Robin Marks)
5. 09:44 AM - Fuel Tank Extra Hole (Shawn Moon)
6. 09:50 AM - IO-540 Oil Pressure with 20-50 Exxon Elite (RobHickman@aol.com)
7. 10:03 AM - Re: IO-540 Oil Pressure with 20-50 Exxon Elite (Geico266)
8. 10:03 AM - Re: IO-540 Oil Pressure with 20-50 Exxon Elite (Kelly McMullen)
9. 10:16 AM - Re: Fuel Tank Extra Hole (Jesse Saint)
10. 10:50 AM - Door Seals - Again (jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com)
11. 11:29 AM - Re: Door Seals - Again (LES KEARNEY)
12. 12:48 PM - Re: Door Seals - Again (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
13. 01:15 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Extra Hole (phil barnette)
14. 02:29 PM - Re: Door Seals - Again (Jae Chang)
15. 02:44 PM - Nav Antenna (AirMike)
16. 02:53 PM - Re: Door Seals - Again (AirMike)
17. 03:34 PM - Re: Re: Door Seals - Again (Bob Leffler)
18. 04:04 PM - Re: Nav Antenna (McGANN, Ron)
19. 04:04 PM - Re: Re: Door Seals - Again (McGANN, Ron)
20. 04:16 PM - Re: Fuel tank lables (gary)
21. 04:59 PM - Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test (RobHickman@aol.com)
22. 05:14 PM - Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test (Patrick Pulis)
23. 05:15 PM - Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test (pascal)
24. 06:35 PM - Re: Door Seals - Again (Lew Gallagher)
25. 07:28 PM - Re: Re: Door Seals - Again (cloudvalley@comcast.net)
26. 07:31 PM - Fan Grill (Chris)
27. 08:17 PM - Re: Re: Door Seals - Again (PILOTDDS@aol.com)
28. 08:21 PM - Re: Fan Grill (David Maib)
29. 08:53 PM - Re: Re: Door Seals - Again (Rick Sked)
Message 1
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Subject: | In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler |
I did a search and could not find this item talked about here. If it has I apologize.
http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14566.html
Pretty nice product for getting oil temps up in the winter. Makes cross country
flights in the winter months better for the engine by getting the oil (210F+)
hot at least once a flight to keep moisture levels in the crankcase low.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2129#202129
Message 2
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Subject: | In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler |
IIRC correctly there is already a thermal switch in the oil filter /cooler
that restricts oil to the cooler until an appropriate temperature is
reached.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geico266
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler
I did a search and could not find this item talked about here. If it has I
apologize.
http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14566.html
Pretty nice product for getting oil temps up in the winter. Makes cross
country flights in the winter months better for the engine by getting the
oil (210F+) hot at least once a flight to keep moisture levels in the
crankcase low.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2129#202129
Message 3
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Subject: | In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler |
It's the Vernatherm valve. However there can still be some benefit to blocking
off the cooler.
Here is a picture: http://www.sacskyranch.com/53e22144apart.jpg
and an article on how it operates.
http://www.sacskyranch.com/eng18.htm
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> IIRC correctly there is already a thermal switch in the oil filter /cooler
> that restricts oil to the cooler until an appropriate temperature is
> reached.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geico266
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:18 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler
>
>
> I did a search and could not find this item talked about here. If it has I
> apologize.
>
> http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14566.html
>
> Pretty nice product for getting oil temps up in the winter. Makes cross
> country flights in the winter months better for the engine by getting the
> oil (210F+) hot at least once a flight to keep moisture levels in the
> crankcase low.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2129#202129
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | In Flight Adjustable Oil Cooler |
We added the gate style control to the oil cooler housing to be able to
control the temp with the pull of a knob. This is common in other RV
models.
Photos attached.
Robin
Message 5
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Subject: | Fuel Tank Extra Hole |
All,=0A I am pretty sure that I have seen this topic before but I could
not find it in the archives. Can someone tell me what to do with the extra
hole on the bottom center of the fuel tank baffle on the fuel tanks? It's
centered right by the middle rib. It looks like a nut plate is supposed t
o go in there but I can't find any mention of it. In fact, on the rivet ca
ll outs it shows the hole but doesn't have a rivet in it. See page 18-5, f
igure 3.=0A=0A Also, has anybody come up with anything better for sealin
g up the tooling holes on the inboard and outboard ribs? It seems that add
ing the plates called out on 18-5 step 2 adds to the possibility of leaks.
Thanks in advance.=A2=BC=0A=0A --Shawn=0A40366 - Wings=0A=0A=0A=0A
Message 6
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Subject: | IO-540 Oil Pressure with 20-50 Exxon Elite |
I changed the oil in the RV-10 on Saturday and decided that since it now has
over 75 hours on it (in 6 weeks) I would change to the same oil I have been
using in the RV-4 for years; multi weight 20-50 Exxon Elite. I had been
using Aero Shell 100 (50 weight) and after changing to the Exxon 20/50 oil my
oil
pressures increased about 10 PSI in flight and 5-10 psi at idle when hot. I
am currently getting 80 psi at 185F in flight and 43 psi at 190F and 675 RPM
on the ground. The oil pressure on takeoff when the oil is cold has also
dropped with the new oil.
I plan on adjusting the pressure back to 70-75 PSI the next time I have the
top cowl off.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: IO-540 Oil Pressure with 20-50 Exxon Elite |
I think your oil pressure numbers are right where they should be.
JMHO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2165#202165
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: IO-540 Oil Pressure with 20-50 Exxon Elite |
Probably better to leave it alone. Cessna now uses something like 95
or 100 psi from a spot further down the line, so really closer to 115
psi at normal pickoff. Improves upper cylinder lube, rocker arms and
valve stems. Unless you are having any issues with leakage, I wouldn't
change your pressure setting.
Kelly
A&P/IA
On 9/2/08, RobHickman@aol.com <RobHickman@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> I changed the oil in the RV-10 on Saturday and decided that since it now has
> over 75 hours on it (in 6 weeks) I would change to the same oil I have been
> using in the RV-4 for years; multi weight 20-50 Exxon Elite. I had been
> using Aero Shell 100 (50 weight) and after changing to the Exxon 20/50 oil
> my oil pressures increased about 10 PSI in flight and 5-10 psi at idle when
> hot. I am currently getting 80 psi at 185F in flight and 43 psi at 190F and
> 675 RPM on the ground. The oil pressure on takeoff when the oil is cold has
> also dropped with the new oil.
>
>
> I plan on adjusting the pressure back to 70-75 PSI the next time I have the
> top cowl off.
>
>
> Rob Hickman
>
> N402RH RV-10
>
>
> ________________________________
> It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here.
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Extra Hole |
Shawn,
On the tooling holes, we usually put in an AN470AD6 rivet with plenty
of proseal.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Sep 2, 2008, at 12:43 PM, Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am pretty sure that I have seen this topic before but I could
> not find it in the archives. Can someone tell me what to do with
> the extra hole on the bottom center of the fuel tank baffle on the
> fuel tanks? It's centered right by the middle rib. It looks like a
> nut plate is supposed to go in there but I can't find any mention of
> it. In fact, on the rivet call outs it shows the hole but doesn't
> have a rivet in it. See page 18-5, figure 3.
>
> Also, has anybody come up with anything better for sealing up
> the tooling holes on the inboard and outboard ribs? It seems that
> adding the plates called out on 18-5 step 2 adds to the possibility
> of leaks. Thanks in advance.=A2=BC
>
> --Shawn
> 40366 - Wings
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Door Seals - Again |
Over the weekend we finally installed the door seal per the instructions.
I was concerned that our door fit would change based on prior posts, and
big surprise to me, the doors now fit poorly. Before we started to rework
everything to get back to a decent fit, or before buying new seals to
replace the factory seals I decided to send an e-mail to Vans with the
question (see copy below). I received a response from Vans, also copied
below. I am shocked that Ken Scott not only couldn't provide a solution,
but also said that this is the first they have EVER heard of this problem.
Not that it will do much good, other than to satisfy my own curiosity,
but has anyone else asked Vans this question? What gives??? I am proud
to be a Van's customer, but they can be frustrating.... BTW, any pointers
on a solution to the problem would be appreciated.
Jason Kreidler 9/2/2008
"A few days ago we installed the door seal that was supplied with our kit.
Before installation of the door seal, our doors fit as close to perfect as
we could have hoped for. After installing the door seals, the doors fit
terribly. We attempted to move the seals while closing the door to insure
they were placed in the channel of the cabin top, but even that did not
help. We are now considering different options, it seems as if the bulb
on the seal is just too big. Since this appears to be a common problem
all builders are experiencing, do you have any ideas to solve this issue?
I hate to buy after market seals to replace the stock seals without asking
the question."
Ken Scott Reply 9/2/2008
"We've had no problems with the supplied seals on our airplanes, and I
haven't heard any complaints from the field. I took a poll of the tech
help guys this morning, and none of us have had any questions that we can
remember. I'm not sure what to tell you."
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
Sheboygan Falls, WI
#40617 Finishing
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Door Seals - Again |
Jason
Ken's reponse is troubling. A quick look at the a/c at KOSH shows that some have
been better than others in fitting the doors. I just don't believe that absolutely
no one has spoken to Van's about this before. I spent quite some time
with one builder at KOSH who fabbed fiberglass trim pieces and his own door seal
for this very reason.
That being said, a little help from the Van's team would have been nice - that
is what tech support is for. Hopefully some of the more experienced builders
on this list can help you. I for one, would be lost without all the advice, guidance
and support that this list provides.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - Some assembly required
----- Original Message -----
From: jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com
Subject: RV10-List: Door Seals - Again
> Over the weekend we finally installed the door seal per the
> instructions.
> I was concerned that our door fit would change based on prior
> posts, and
> big surprise to me, the doors now fit poorly. Before we
> started to rework
> everything to get back to a decent fit, or before buying new
> seals to
> replace the factory seals I decided to send an e-mail to Vans
> with the
> question (see copy below). I received a response from
> Vans, also copied
> below. I am shocked that Ken Scott not only couldn't
> provide a solution,
> but also said that this is the first they have EVER heard of
> this problem.
> Not that it will do much good, other than to satisfy my
> own curiosity,
> but has anyone else asked Vans this question? What
> gives??? I am proud
> to be a Van's customer, but they can be frustrating....
> BTW, any pointers
> on a solution to the problem would be appreciated.
>
> Jason Kreidler 9/2/2008
> "A few days ago we installed the door seal that was supplied
> with our kit.
> Before installation of the door seal, our doors fit as close to
> perfect as
> we could have hoped for. After installing the door seals,
> the doors fit
> terribly. We attempted to move the seals while closing the
> door to insure
> they were placed in the channel of the cabin top, but even that
> did not
> help. We are now considering different options, it seems
> as if the bulb
> on the seal is just too big. Since this appears to be a
> common problem
> all builders are experiencing, do you have any ideas to solve
> this issue?
> I hate to buy after market seals to replace the stock seals
> without asking
> the question."
>
> Ken Scott Reply 9/2/2008
> "We've had no problems with the supplied seals on our airplanes,
> and I
> haven't heard any complaints from the field. I took a poll
> of the tech
> help guys this morning, and none of us have had any questions
> that we can
> remember. I'm not sure what to tell you."
>
> Thanks, Jason Kreidler
> 4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
> Sheboygan Falls, WI
> #40617 Finishing
Message 12
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Subject: | Door Seals - Again |
Not what I would call overly surprising response from that particular Ken
but also probably not inaccurate. I think most people have accepted the p
roblem and as such few, if any as Ken has said, have reported it. One of t
he problems with having such a great community of builders is that we tend
to try and solve things amongst ourselves, sometimes to a fault, and becaus
e of this the manufacturer may not hear about the problems. If you want a
better answer out of Van's talk to Ken Krueger who actually is helpful and
is the engineering minded Ken.
Given all the past complaints on this subject, I will be doing a rough fi
t and then put some "throwaway" seals on for final fit.
Michael
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Seals - Again
Over the weekend we finally installed the door seal per the instructions.
I was concerned that our door fit would change based on prior posts, and bi
g surprise to me, the doors now fit poorly. Before we started to rework ev
erything to get back to a decent fit, or before buying new seals to replace
the factory seals I decided to send an e-mail to Vans with the question (s
ee copy below). I received a response from Vans, also copied below. I am
shocked that Ken Scott not only couldn't provide a solution, but also said
that this is the first they have EVER heard of this problem. Not that it w
ill do much good, other than to satisfy my own curiosity, but has anyone el
se asked Vans this question? What gives??? I am proud to be a Van's custo
mer, but they can be frustrating.... BTW, any pointers on a solution to th
e problem would be appreciated.
Jason Kreidler 9/2/2008
"A few days ago we installed the door seal that was supplied with our kit.
Before installation of the door seal, our doors fit as close to perfect as
we could have hoped for. After installing the door seals, the doors fit te
rribly. We attempted to move the seals while closing the door to insure th
ey were placed in the channel of the cabin top, but even that did not help.
We are now considering different options, it seems as if the bulb on the
seal is just too big. Since this appears to be a common problem all builde
rs are experiencing, do you have any ideas to solve this issue? I hate to b
uy after market seals to replace the stock seals without asking the questio
n."
Ken Scott Reply 9/2/2008
"We've had no problems with the supplied seals on our airplanes, and I have
n't heard any complaints from the field. I took a poll of the tech help gu
ys this morning, and none of us have had any questions that we can remember
. I'm not sure what to tell you."
Thanks, Jason Kreidler
4-Partner Build (Jason Kreidler, Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elsner)
Sheboygan Falls, WI
#40617 Finishing
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Extra Hole |
the rivet hole in the baffle should be matched to a rivet hole in the skin.
=C2- I thought this was funny when i saw it on the left tank - i through-
drilled it to make a matching on in the skin - then i got to the other side
of the skin - the skin hole had one, and the baffle didn't!
=C2-
so, would seem like there so the baffle only installs in one direction, but
all the other holes seem to line up (eg z-bracket holes)
=C2-
so i guess one way would be just to swivel 180 degrees, unless you've alrea
dy match drilled, in which case can drill through and rivet like all the ot
hers
=C2-
phil
RV-10 (wings)
KSLC
--- On Tue, 9/2/08, Shawn Moon <moons1999@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Extra Hole
All,
=C2-=C2-=C2- I am pretty sure that I have seen this topic before but
I could not find it in the archives.=C2- Can someone tell me what to do w
ith the extra hole on the bottom center of the fuel tank baffle on the fuel
tanks?=C2- It's centered right by the middle rib.=C2- It looks like a
nut plate is supposed to go in there but I can't find any mention of it.=C2
- In fact, on the rivet call outs it shows the hole but doesn't have a ri
vet in it.=C2- See page 18-5, figure 3.
=C2-=C2-=C2- Also, has anybody come up with anything better for seali
ng up the tooling holes on the inboard and outboard ribs?=C2- It seems th
at adding the plates called out on 18-5 step 2 adds to the possibility of l
eaks.=C2- Thanks in advance.=99-
=C2---Shawn
40366 - Wings
=0A=0A=0A
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Door Seals - Again |
I am working on the doors now. Before doing the last 10% of fitting on
the doors, i considered what effect the door seals would have. From the
plans, it seems like the door seals are installed on the door to get
sandwiched between the door and the door frame flange. It seems like the
door seals would cause the doors to stick proud of the cabin top, if
anything. In that case, I will continue to follow the plans and get the
doors to fit perfectly flush with the cabin top, even before door seals
are installed. When the seals are installed, then continue to trim down
the door frame flange until the door is flush with the cabin top again.
Does that seem reasonable?
Of course, i got the fit almost "perfect", then i installed the hinges.
The hinges have enough slop or magin for error, that it seems like it's
inevitable that your door will not STAY perfect once the hinges are
installed. Fortunately, it looks like shimming one of the hinges should
get things close to lined up again.
jae
#40533 - doors
jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com wrote:
>
> Over the weekend we finally installed the door seal per the
> instructions. I was concerned that our door fit would change based on
> prior posts, and big surprise to me, the doors now fit poorly. Before
> we started to rework everything to get back to a decent fit, or before
> buying new seals to replace the factory seals I decided to send an
> e-mail to Vans with the question (see copy below). I received a
> response from Vans, also copied below. I am shocked that Ken Scott
> not only couldn't provide a solution, but also said that this is the
> first they have EVER heard of this problem. Not that it will do much
> good, other than to satisfy my own curiosity, but has anyone else
> asked Vans this question? What gives??? I am proud to be a Van's
> customer, but they can be frustrating.... BTW, any pointers on a
> solution to the problem would be appreciated.
> *
> *
Message 15
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|
I am at the point of installing an "In-Wing" Nav antenna. I saw that Vans has such
a Nav antenna on their web site (with no picture)- it was quite inexpensive.
I ordered it and it is essentially a piece of 25" copper tape to which you
solder a connection with the (included) antenna wire to the panel. Has anyone
installed this device and with what level of success in receiving VOR signals.
If it is ho-hum on the reception, should I try the Bob Archer unit that sells
for about $88 at Spruce???
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2187#202187
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Door Seals - Again |
I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not the
preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the Van's seal
the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air
intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that
you have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out the
pop rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside the door.
I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft door
seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com
He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who have installed
it. any feedback on this product is appreciated.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Door Seals - Again |
Dick at AircraftDoorseals is a good guy to deal with. I've used several of
his products on my Cherokee. He answered questions quickly and did
whatever it took to help folks out.
I don't have experience with his door seals on a RV-10 yet, but based upon
my previous experience, I would go to him again.
We just need to convince Dick to trade in his Lance for a RV-10! :^)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 5:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again
I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is
not the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the
Van's seal the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint
on noise or air intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice
appearance is that you have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the
seal (drill out the pop rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling
around inside the door.
I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft
door seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com
He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who have
installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189
Message 18
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Hi Mike,
Sounds like you are describing the Marker Beacon Antenna. It won't be
much chop for VOR reception. If you are after a VOR antenna in the
wing, you will nee the Bob Archer Nav antenna (or equivalent).
Cheers,
Ron
187 painting
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Wednesday, 3 September 2008 7:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Nav Antenna
I am at the point of installing an "In-Wing" Nav antenna. I saw that
Vans has such a Nav antenna on their web site (with no picture)- it was
quite inexpensive. I ordered it and it is essentially a piece of 25"
copper tape to which you solder a connection with the (included) antenna
wire to the panel. Has anyone installed this device and with what level
of success in receiving VOR signals. If it is ho-hum on the reception,
should I try the Bob Archer unit that sells for about $88 at Spruce???
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2187#202187
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
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Subject: | Re: Door Seals - Again |
The Vans standard door seal is glued in place rather than rivetted. My
doors sat a little proud after installation of the seal. I'm with
Michael S. - I did not report the condition to Vans and just worked the
cabin top/door intersection to smooth the fit. Just another issue with
the (less than fun) construction of the doors. I have also noticed that
I have contacted Vans on build issues much less frequently during the
finishing activities, deferring to the collective experience of the
list. But I am surprised that Van does not recognise the weaknesses in
the door design compared to the rest of the kit.
Cheers
Ron
187 painting
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Wednesday, 3 September 2008 7:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again
I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans
is not the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed
the Van's seal the seal seems to be working well and there is little
complaint on noise or air intrusion. One big complaint aside from the
lack of nice appearance is that you have to use pop rivets, and if you
need to change the seal (drill out the pop rivets), you will have the
rivet ends rattling around inside the door.
I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible
Aircraft door seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com
He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who
have installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin
top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 20
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Subject: | Fuel tank lables |
I shipped out the labels for those folks who provided me with addresses
today. When I get to Georgia on Friday I will get the addresses from those
who already sent checks and send out those labels.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying (except when the RNC has a TFR)
We have gotten quite an air show by the military folks
Message 21
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Subject: | Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test |
On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different
propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full throttle. I started
at
2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for every 100 RPM drop I
would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel
deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Message 22
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Subject: | Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test |
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test |
Thanks Rob for the update. So 2600 produced the best speed at the price
of higher fuel, and the loss of speed was consistent for every 100rpm?
how did this effect fuel rate?
Pascal
From: RobHickman@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 4:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different
propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full throttle. I
started at 2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for
every 100 RPM drop I would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed.
Rob Hickman
N402RH RV-10
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal
here.
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Door Seals - Again |
Hey Jason,
IMHO, FWIW, IIRC, YMMV, (sorry, I'm just practicing!) We eventually got a perfect
fit on the doors, then used good carpet tape (really sticky on both sides)
to cut and temporarily mount the seals ... and they work just fine. Our latch
pins really pull in the doors so that there's not much wiggle room for the seals
to effect the fit. But it does make it a bit snug so that like everyone
else, you have to be sure to pull in the rear. After leaving the seals clamped
tight with the door latches for a couple of days, it's still snug but not as
hard to close. The seals are marked for left, right and where to position them,
and set aside until after painting and final installation. With weather seal/emblem
glue, I see no reason to pop rivet.
Are you sure you are orienting the seal correctly to the door per instructions?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2226#202226
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: Door Seals - Again |
Hi Mike!
Looks like you made is to Oshkosh this year after all. We saw your picture at the
barbeque. Good luck on finishing your 10 soon!
Brian and Ruth Preston
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
>
> I saw quite a few different seals at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not
> the preferred seal. Thoug with those owners that have installed the Van's seal
> the seal seems to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air
> intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that you
> have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out the pop
> rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside the door.
>
> I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called the "Incredible Aircraft door
> seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com
>
> He did give me a sample, but I did not get any feedback from those who have
> installed it. any feedback on this product is appreciated.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2189#202189
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>Hi Mike!</DIV>
<DIV>Looks like you made is to Oshkosh this year after all. We saw your picture
at the barbeque. Good luck on finishing your 10 soon!</DIV>
<DIV>Brian and Ruth Preston</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
<BR><BR>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike"
<MIKEABEL@PACBELL.NET><BR>> <BR>> I saw quite a few different seals
at OSH. From what I can gather, Vans is not <BR>> the preferred seal. Thoug
with those owners that have installed the Van's seal <BR>> the seal seems
to be working well and there is little complaint on noise or air <BR>>
intrusion. One big complaint aside from the lack of nice appearance is that you
<BR>> have to use pop rivets, and if you need to change the seal (drill out
the pop <BR>> rivets), you will have the rivet ends rattling around inside
the door. <BR>> <BR>> I did see seals from AIRCRAFT DOOR SEAL LLC called
the "Incredible Aircraft door <BR>> seal" see aircraftdoorseals.com <BR>>
<BR>> He did give me a sample, but I did not
get a
Same g
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 26
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Check these out folks.
http://www.directron.com/x80.html
2 are on the way for my glareshield fans.
I am pimping my ride.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
Message 27
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Subject: | Re: Door Seals - Again |
I used both the original seals and then those sold by Alex DeDominicis and
found those sold by Alex vastly superior and well worth the money.The doors
close passivly yet still seal better than those supplied by vans.Just my
individual experience. 728DD-
**************
It's only a deal if it's where you want
to go. Find your travel deal here.
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
Message 28
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You can find some very cool fan grills at frozencpu.com as well.
David Maib
40559
On Sep 2, 2008, at 9:30 PM, Chris wrote:
Check these out folks.
http://www.directron.com/x80.html
2 are on the way for my glareshield fans.
I am pimping my ride.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: Door Seals - Again |
Hi Fellow builders...
There seems to be two ways to go about this...I am at the crossroads...first...the
Deem's method of the seals on the FRAME of the door opening and an alternative
that I am pursuing...the seals on the door but attached with aluminum strips
held to the door edge with rivenuts, not tape...this allowed for the seals
to be adjusted in or out to fit the door channel. This was done by a builder
who I can't recall, but I think he had the Oregon Aero logo on the tail, not sure
though, Deems has it on his OSH 08 pics...he used the bulb seal, aftermarket
product I presume ...very trick and very easy to replace the seals if needed...Deems,
the rental car check is in the mail...promise...been slammed at work..hope
Parker and Judy didn't miss Dinner!!! :)
Rick Sked
40185
Goin to the hangar this weekend!!
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 2, 2008 6:35:09 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Door Seals - Again
Hey Jason,
IMHO, FWIW, IIRC, YMMV, (sorry, I'm just practicing!) We eventually got a perfect
fit on the doors, then used good carpet tape (really sticky on both sides)
to cut and temporarily mount the seals ... and they work just fine. Our latch
pins really pull in the doors so that there's not much wiggle room for the seals
to effect the fit. But it does make it a bit snug so that like everyone
else, you have to be sure to pull in the rear. After leaving the seals clamped
tight with the door latches for a couple of days, it's still snug but not as
hard to close. The seals are marked for left, right and where to position them,
and set aside until after painting and final installation. With weather seal/emblem
glue, I see no reason to pop rivet.
Are you sure you are orienting the seal correctly to the door per instructions?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Engine and FF here, now cowl and baffels,waiting on prop.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2226#202226
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