Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:44 AM - Re: Elevator Counterbalance (Carl Froehlich)
2. 06:28 AM - Re: Nav Antenna (AirMike)
3. 08:26 AM - Re: Elevator Counterbalance (Rick Sked)
4. 08:50 AM - Door seals??????? (John Gonzalez)
5. 11:54 AM - Re: Door seals??????? (Jesse Saint)
6. 11:54 AM - FW: Service Bulletin (Robin Marks)
7. 12:30 PM - Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test (William Curtis)
8. 02:09 PM - Re: FW: Service Bulletin (James McGrew)
9. 02:39 PM - Re: Shoulder harness bracket (Deems Davis)
10. 02:51 PM - GPS Antenna Mounting (orchidman)
11. 02:52 PM - Finish Kit (jfgilmore)
12. 02:54 PM - Re: Finish Kit (orchidman)
13. 03:20 PM - Re: Finish Kit (Ben Westfall)
14. 03:53 PM - Re: GPS Antenna Mounting (McGANN, Ron)
15. 04:02 PM - Re: GPS Antenna Mounting (linn Walters)
16. 04:18 PM - Re: Finish Kit (William Curtis)
17. 05:17 PM - Re: GPS Antenna Mounting (Joe McKervey)
18. 06:27 PM - Re: Finish Kit (Les Kearney)
19. 06:33 PM - Re: Door seals??????? (John Gonzalez)
20. 07:34 PM - Re: GPS Antenna Mounting (orchidman)
21. 07:40 PM - Re: Elevator Counterbalance (richard sipp)
22. 07:43 PM - Re: GPS Antenna Mounting (orchidman)
23. 08:01 PM - Hangar Clean Out Day.... (Don Honabach)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Elevator Counterbalance |
There is not enough lead, even before trimming, to balance the elevators
like you would on a two place RV. I called Van's about this and the
response was for the RV-10 the elevators are supposed to be trailing edge
heavy, and to trim and install the weights per plan.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hours)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 11:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance
Thanks Rick..
Even though the plans don't call for it, I'm assuming I should go ahead and
torque them down now.
Thanks,
Phil
_____
From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance
Yup....drill out the amount needed to bring it into balance. Adding it in is
a little tougher, but easily done casting some lead sheet to go under the
attach bolts.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Friday, September 5, 2008 7:50:14 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance
I've reached the point of trimming the counterbalance weights for the
elevators.
Without having a chance to balance the elevators first, trimming these
weights make me a bit nervous. It seems like there is the possibility that
Vans estimates could allow for too much removal.
If I trim the weights as the plans describe, is there still more than enough
lead remaining to balance the control surfaces later?
If so, what's the process for removing the lead from a counterbalance weight
that's already in place? A drill?
Thanks,
Phil
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Message 2
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This is supposed to be a Nav antenna (25")
repeat request for any info on anyone who has installed one???
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2884#202884
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Counterbalance |
I wouldn't. =C2-I hung mine initally to see how close they were...very cl
ose really,=C2-but you need to redo it after all the bodywork and paint i
s completed...so snug them up to keep them in place unti; your final balcan
e is completed, I use torq seal on everything so if I don't have the yellow
seal I always recheck the torque, beats making a list as long as you stick
to your method of never letting one go if it is not marked.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Friday, September 5, 2008 8:53:15 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance
Thanks Rick..
Even though the plans don't call for it, I'm assuming I should go ahead and
torque them down now.
Thanks,
Phil
From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance
Yup....drill out the amount needed to bring it into balance. Adding it in i
s a little tougher, but easily done casting some lead sheet to go under the
attach bolts.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Friday, September 5, 2008 7:50:14 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance
I've reached the point of trimming the counterbalance weights for the eleva
tors.
Without having a chance to balance the elevators=C2-first, trimming these
weights make me a bit nervous.=C2- It seems like there is the possibilit
y that Vans estimates could allow for too much removal.
If I trim the weights=C2-as the plans describe, is there still more than
enough lead remaining to balance the control surfaces later?
If so, what's the process for removing the lead from a counterbalance weigh
t that's already in place?=C2- A=C2-drill?
Thanks,
Phil
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Door seals??????? |
I put my doors back on the plane with the stock seals in place, (properly placed)
and I too found that the seals were way too thick to allow the doors to close.
I have done a really nice job of getting the (outside) edges of the doors to fit
to the cabin opening and also got an excellent fit where the inside cabin flange
joins up with the inside of the door, I built it up to fit so that a business
card can't even slide through.
With the doors back on, the first thing I noticed was that the bottom seal was
way too thick. I used a razor blade and cut the seals at the corners and removed
the whole bottom piece. Tried it back on and it fit better but was still too
thick in some areas. I next used a razor blade and put a single cut down the
middle of the entire length of the seal. The seal does not seem to interfere
at all with the fit, but what is left to be seen/felt is how effective the seal
is with this approach. Again, I am also releying on the solid fit of the door
to help with the air and not just this rubber seal.
JOhn G. 409
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Door seals??????? |
The majority of air movement that you get without the seals is around
the door hinges, so at least make sure you have a good seal there.
do nor archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Sep 6, 2008, at 11:49 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>
> I put my doors back on the plane with the stock seals in place,
> (properly placed) and I too found that the seals were way too thick
> to allow the doors to close.
>
> I have done a really nice job of getting the (outside) edges of the
> doors to fit to the cabin opening and also got an excellent fit
> where the inside cabin flange joins up with the inside of the door,
> I built it up to fit so that a business card can't even slide through.
>
> With the doors back on, the first thing I noticed was that the
> bottom seal was way too thick. I used a razor blade and cut the
> seals at the corners and removed the whole bottom piece. Tried it
> back on and it fit better but was still too thick in some areas. I
> next used a razor blade and put a single cut down the middle of the
> entire length of the seal. The seal does not seem to interfere at
> all with the fit, but what is left to be seen/felt is how effective
> the seal is with this approach. Again, I am also releying on the
> solid fit of the door to help with the air and not just this rubber
> seal.
>
> JOhn G. 409
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | FW: Service Bulletin |
RV-list,
We performed the tail plate SB this week. We have one
observation on a tip that may make the process easier. Forgive me if
this was mentioned before & I just didn't see or understand the posting
at the time.
The last thing we wanted to do is tear into the nearly fully
assembled plane to perform this SB. But seeing that in my mind there was
no option we started the disassembly. Instead of crawling in the tail
and disconnecting the elevator trim cables, then removing the
stabilizer/elevator from the airplane, we simply turned the assembly
upside down, left the cables connected. It took about 4 hours to get to
the point where we could start installing the stiffeners. Total time
start to finish was ~12 hours. We also found a new use for the
Port-A-Cool.
At this point we now have a completed plane with an SJ cowl
& custom airbox. We have completed the high speed taxi & brake test. Now
we are just waiting on insurance coverage and for the plane to paint
itself...
Robin
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test |
Consider that the Cirrus SR-20 and SR-22 with both 2 and 3 blade props don't have
any direct prop control. They have only two prop speeds--2500 and 2700 RPM.
2700 RPM when the throttle is pushed in all the way and 2500 when the throttle
is anywhere but full power.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I was thinking about this....may be I mean to say that at a given
> manifold pressure (19.0 in my case), 2250 RPM, 10 gal and 12,500 (65%
> as stated in lycoming HP chart) I will lose speed if I increase RPM
> and keep everything else, including fuel, constant.
>
> Now guys, don't jump all over me for being wishy-washy!
>
> Rene, you should always be able to go faster at a higher altitude!
> Right?
>
> At the end, I believe that we are very close to each other since it is
> hard to make a major rigging error on the 10. We are just measuring
> with different instruments and comparing speeds at different parameters.
>
> I have enclose two photos of my panel from a trip. They are both
> taken on the same trip at different altitudes. I have done the GRT
> speed correction but will try the GPS speed calibration for the next
> one. Now, if my outside temp sensor is really out of wack and my
> numbers are off, it is not my fault!
>
> I took these shots with the AP engaged and the plane level in smooth
> air, with everything settled. Notice no vertical speed, TAS on the
> right bottom and OAT.
>
> You might think that I am a real liar, but if I wiggle my rudder just
> right, I get a couple of more knots.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 3, 2008, at 7:04 PM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> >
> > Boy, I really feel slow now......
> >
> > 12,500
> > 12.2 GPH Rich of peak
> > 2480 RPM
> > 161 knots (TAS from GRT)
> >
> > My speed test at 8000 feet and 75% power showed about 171......but I
> > have
> > not seen speeds like that in cruise at 12500.
> >
> >
> > Rene' Felker
> > RV-10 N423CF Flying
> > 801-721-6080
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 4:28 PM
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test
> >
> >
> > I have been reporting best speeds at 2250 RPM. Perhaps with your
> > theory I can do better. I am curious and will test it and report
> > back.
> >
> > I consistently get 172 kts at 12,500 with 10 gal/hr burn. Perhaps I
> > really mean best speed/fuel economy combination and don't realize it.
> >
> > I do know that being in absolute smooth air and giving the plane a
> > chance to accelerate for a few long minutes makes a big difference.
> > The speed goes all over the place with the slightest turbulence.
> >
> > It will be a while before I can do the test but I WILL report back. I
> > also need to qualify that I do not have three blades so, who knows!
> >
> > Thank for making me think.
> >
> >
> > On Sep 3, 2008, at 1:40 PM, William Curtis wrote:
> >
> >> <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
> >>
> >> This is one of the reasons I shake my head when some report the best
> >> speeds at some low ~2200-2400 RPM. I discovered when I was breaking
> >> in a new engine on the Cardinal that my best power and speeds was at
> >> 2700 RPM. Anything less than 2700 would produce a slower speed.
> >> Now I primarily use two settings for my prop--2700 for takeoff, 2500
> >> for climb and cruise with occasional reduction during letdown.
> >>
> >> All things being equal, you will achieve the best power and speed
> >> from a prop at 2700 RPM. At 2700 RPM, and 50 degree ambient
> >> temperature, an 84" prop will have a tip speed of Mach 0.895. To
> >> produce maximum thrust at full power your tip speed should fall
> >> between .88 and .92 mach. The primary benefit of reducing RPM is
> >> for increased passenger comfort (less noise) and reduced engine wear
> >> an tear.
> >>
> >> What is the diameter of the Hartzell Composite Three blade?
> >>
> >> William
> >> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
> >>
> >> -------- Original Message --------
> >>> X-Rcpt-To: <wcurtis@nerv10.com>
> >>>
> >>> On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different
> >>> propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full
> >>> throttle. I started at
> >>> 2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for every 100
> >>> RPM drop I
> >>> would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed.
> >>>
> >>> Rob Hickman
> >>> N402RH RV-10
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find
> >>> your travel
> >>> deal here.
> >>> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Service Bulletin |
Thanks for the tip. I've been dreading having to deal with those cables
again. This sounds like a real time saving idea. I'll be doing this next
month during my annual.
-Jim
N312JE
On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 1:52 PM, Robin Marks <robin1@mrmoisture.com> wrote:
> RV-list,
>
> We performed the tail plate SB this week. We have one
> observation on a tip that may make the process easier. Forgive me if this
> was mentioned before & I just didn't see or understand the posting at the
> time.
>
> The last thing we wanted to do is tear into the nearly fully
> assembled plane to perform this SB. But seeing that in my mind there was
no
> option we started the disassembly. Instead of crawling in the tail and
> disconnecting the elevator trim cables, then removing the
> stabilizer/elevator from the airplane, we simply turned the assembly upsi
de
> down, left the cables connected. It took about 4 hours to get to the poi
nt
> where we could start installing the stiffeners. Total time start to finis
h
> was ~12 hours. We also found a new use for the Port-A-Cool.
>
> At this point we now have a completed plane with an SJ cowl &
> custom airbox. We have completed the high speed taxi & brake test. Now we
> are just waiting on insurance coverage and for the plane to paint itself
=85
>
>
> Robin
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Shoulder harness bracket |
partner14 wrote:
>
> Ok, the install is finished and it works and looks great. Based on the response
I guess I need to run some more. Attached is a pic.
> Rick Sked asked about using them as a headset holder.... I have a different bracket
design already done and mounted in the plane. Will take a pic and send
it out tomorrow.
> Don McDonald
> #40636
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1524#201524
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2629c_119.jpg
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | GPS Antenna Mounting |
I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the 430W
GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like I have 2
options.
On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door posts where
the top is rather thin. The second location is centered between the door hinges
where the top is very thick.
Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw length
or attaching the coax.
If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about getting
the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I would have
the nuts tighten up against.
Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951
Message 11
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I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready to order the
finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom cowling and other components
specific to the engine. I don't want to order a finish kit from Van's that
comes with parts that I will not use. Does anyone have a shipping list for
the finish kit who might also identify the parts I won't need? I would settle
for just the finish kit inventory list.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952
Message 12
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Call Van's on Monday and request they FAX you a copy of a current packing list.
That way you be assured of getting an up to date list.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2953#202953
Message 13
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Here is the current up to date list as of 8/15/2008 direct from Van's
1.00 FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540
3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP
1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY
1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540
1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT
1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING
1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27"
1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!!
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW
1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE
1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540)
1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV
1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540)
1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT
1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfgilmore
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 2:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit
I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready to order
the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom cowling and other
components specific to the engine. I don't want to order a finish kit from
Van's that comes with parts that I will not use. Does anyone have a
shipping list for the finish kit who might also identify the parts I won't
need? I would settle for just the finish kit inventory list.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952
Message 14
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| Subject: | GPS Antenna Mounting |
G'day Gary,
I mounted mine on the top cabin centreline aft of the door posts in the thi
nner material. Even there, the thickness of the cabin is close to 1/2" and
the GPS antenna studs were not long enough. The studs are no where near l
ong enough to penetrate the forward (thicker) part of the cabin. I made so
me extensions out of steel tube tapped for the antenna studs, and threaded
on the outside for the nuts. A bit of work but came out great. Antenna le
ad passed through the windshield support brace and through a small cover st
rip down the cabin top.
I think you can buy an alternate antenna that has a flange mount rather tha
n the studs. This (and some rivnuts)is probably a better option if you wan
t to mount the antenna to the lid.
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of orchidman
Sent: Sun 9/7/2008 7:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: GPS Antenna Mounting
I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the 4
30W GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like I
have 2 options.
On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door posts
where the top is rather thin. The second location is centered between the
door hinges where the top is very thick.
Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw
length or attaching the coax.
If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about
getting the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I wou
ld have the nuts tighten up against.
Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Mounting |
I don't know why you'd want to go to all that trouble unless your 430W
is mounted to the cabin top too. I'm nowhere near the point of mounting
anything electronic, so bear with me. Why not mount the GPS antenna
(and any other satellite antenna) on the glareshield???? The signal
attenuation due to the windshield is negligible. You could hide it
under the cowl (I think even under the cabin top) as long as the carbon
fiber isn't above it. Mine will probably go on the glareshield.
Linn
do not archive
orchidman wrote:
>
> I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the 430W
GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like I have
2 options.
> On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door posts where
the top is rather thin. The second location is centered between the door
hinges where the top is very thick.
> Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw length
or attaching the coax.
> If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about getting
the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I would have
the nuts tighten up against.
>
> Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts?
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951
>
>
>
Message 16
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You stated the Finish Kit but did you mean the Firewall Forward Kit? Seems you
would want the Firewall Forward Kit as listed below. Not too much in the Finish
Kit is specific to the engine. Get a current FF or Finish kit contents from
Van's
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Here is the current up to date list as of 8/15/2008 direct from Van's
>
>
> 1.00 FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540
> 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK
> 2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE
> 2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP
> 1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540
> 6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT
> 4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY
> 1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540
> 1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT
> 1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320
> 1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE
> 1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES
> 1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING
> 1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5
> 1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25
> 1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5
> 1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT
> 1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY.
> 1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT
> 1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27"
> 1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540
> 1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE
> 1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!!
> 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG
> 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT
> 1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE
> 1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT
> 1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5
> 1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4
> 1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4
> 1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5
> 1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS
> 1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS
> 1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS
> 1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC.
> 1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS
> 1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS
> 1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW
> 1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE
> 1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540)
> 1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV
> 1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540)
> 1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT
> 1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5
> 1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD
> 1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN
> 1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfgilmore
> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 2:52 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit
>
>
> I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready to order
> the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom cowling and other
> components specific to the engine. I don't want to order a finish kit from
> Van's that comes with parts that I will not use. Does anyone have a
> shipping list for the finish kit who might also identify the parts I won't
> need? I would settle for just the finish kit inventory list.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Mounting |
For mounting between the doors you can use aluminum tube standoffs. drill
the top skin the diameter of the screw and the inner cabin top for a snug
fit of the standoff.
Hope this helps
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "orchidman" <gary@wingscc.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 4:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: GPS Antenna Mounting
>
> I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the
> 430W GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like
> I have 2 options.
> On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door
> posts where the top is rather thin. The second location is centered
> between the door hinges where the top is very thick.
> Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw
> length or attaching the coax.
> If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about
> getting the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I
> would have the nuts tighten up against.
>
> Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts?
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951
>
>
>
Message 18
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|
Hi
What engine are you using? I am using an Eggenfellner E6TI (3.6l)
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required
Sent from my iPhone
On 6-Sep-08, at 3:51 PM, jfgilmore <jfg@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready
> to order the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom
> cowling and other components specific to the engine. I don't want
> to order a finish kit from Van's that comes with parts that I will
> not use. Does anyone have a shipping list for the finish kit who
> might also identify the parts I won't need? I would settle for just
> the finish kit inventory list.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Door seals??????? |
Left them completely intact in that area, no razor blade down the middle.
Thanks,
John
----------------------------------------
> From: jesse@saintaviation.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door seals???????
> Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 14:53:48 -0400
>
>
> The majority of air movement that you get without the seals is around
> the door hinges, so at least make sure you have a good seal there.
>
> do nor archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Sep 6, 2008, at 11:49 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>> I put my doors back on the plane with the stock seals in place,
>> (properly placed) and I too found that the seals were way too thick
>> to allow the doors to close.
>>
>> I have done a really nice job of getting the (outside) edges of the
>> doors to fit to the cabin opening and also got an excellent fit
>> where the inside cabin flange joins up with the inside of the door,
>> I built it up to fit so that a business card can't even slide through.
>>
>> With the doors back on, the first thing I noticed was that the
>> bottom seal was way too thick. I used a razor blade and cut the
>> seals at the corners and removed the whole bottom piece. Tried it
>> back on and it fit better but was still too thick in some areas. I
>> next used a razor blade and put a single cut down the middle of the
>> entire length of the seal. The seal does not seem to interfere at
>> all with the fit, but what is left to be seen/felt is how effective
>> the seal is with this approach. Again, I am also releying on the
>> solid fit of the door to help with the air and not just this rubber
>> seal.
>>
>> JOhn G. 409
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Mounting |
pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth. wrote:
> I don't know why you'd want to go to all that trouble unless your 430W
> is mounted to the cabin top too. I'm nowhere near the point of mounting
> anything electronic, so bear with me. Why not mount the GPS antenna
> (and any other satellite antenna) on the glareshield???? The signal
> attenuation due to the windshield is negligible. You could hide it
> under the cowl (I think even under the cabin top) as long as the carbon
> fiber isn't above it. Mine will probably go on the glareshield.
> Linn
>
Linn,
In the archives there is a rather large number of people experiencing problems
mounting on the glare shield or under the cowl.
I don't want to risk having a problem and having to 're-do' it.
Thanks,
Gary
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2985#202985
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Counterbalance |
Gentlemen:
Let's remember that the 10 is the only RV that has a balance spec. It
is found in the table in the text instructions (section 5 I think).
They are not to be balanced "level" but with a maximum trailing edge
down weight IIRC. There is a spec for each control surface. Naturally
they should be checked after painting.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Sked
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 11:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance
Yup....drill out the amount needed to bring it into balance. Adding it
in is a little tougher, but easily done casting some lead sheet to go
under the attach bolts.
Rick S.
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 5, 2008 7:50:14 PM (GMT-0800)
America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance
I've reached the point of trimming the counterbalance weights for the
elevators.
Without having a chance to balance the elevators first, trimming these
weights make me a bit nervous. It seems like there is the possibility
that Vans estimates could allow for too much removal.
If I trim the weights as the plans describe, is there still more than
enough lead remaining to balance the control surfaces later?
If so, what's the process for removing the lead from a counterbalance
weight that's already in place? A drill?
Thanks,
Phil
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: GPS Antenna Mounting |
mckervey(at)charter.net wrote:
> For mounting between the doors you can use aluminum tube standoffs. drill
> the top skin the diameter of the screw and the inner cabin top for a snug
> fit of the standoff.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Joe
> ---
I think my next step is to get the coax connector and go from there. Guess I will
be making a call to Stein Monday.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2986#202986
Message 23
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| Subject: | Hangar Clean Out Day.... |
Hangar clean out day continues:
I've put the following items up for sale on eBay...
All these items are essentially new units (zero time). They were
purchased as I was building my plane and now I don't need.
The Stratus EA-81 and FWF Kit has no reserve - needless to say, I'll be
sleeping on the couch tonight!
Stratus EA-81 and Zenith 601 Firewall Forward Kit
http://tinyurl.com/6n9wxo
Apollo GX65 - Panel Mount Combo GPS/Comm unit
http://tinyurl.com/5u772b
Rocky Mountain's microMonitor (Engine + More Monitor)
http://tinyurl.com/5lg2ku
Dynon EFIS-D10 - Glass Cockput
http://tinyurl.com/5h9fvh
Don Honabach
Zodiac 601HDS
Tempe, AZ
DO NOT ARCHIVE
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