---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 09/06/08: 23 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:44 AM - Re: Elevator Counterbalance (Carl Froehlich) 2. 06:28 AM - Re: Nav Antenna (AirMike) 3. 08:26 AM - Re: Elevator Counterbalance (Rick Sked) 4. 08:50 AM - Door seals??????? (John Gonzalez) 5. 11:54 AM - Re: Door seals??????? (Jesse Saint) 6. 11:54 AM - FW: Service Bulletin (Robin Marks) 7. 12:30 PM - Re: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test (William Curtis) 8. 02:09 PM - Re: FW: Service Bulletin (James McGrew) 9. 02:39 PM - Re: Shoulder harness bracket (Deems Davis) 10. 02:51 PM - GPS Antenna Mounting (orchidman) 11. 02:52 PM - Finish Kit (jfgilmore) 12. 02:54 PM - Re: Finish Kit (orchidman) 13. 03:20 PM - Re: Finish Kit (Ben Westfall) 14. 03:53 PM - Re: GPS Antenna Mounting (McGANN, Ron) 15. 04:02 PM - Re: GPS Antenna Mounting (linn Walters) 16. 04:18 PM - Re: Finish Kit (William Curtis) 17. 05:17 PM - Re: GPS Antenna Mounting (Joe McKervey) 18. 06:27 PM - Re: Finish Kit (Les Kearney) 19. 06:33 PM - Re: Door seals??????? (John Gonzalez) 20. 07:34 PM - Re: GPS Antenna Mounting (orchidman) 21. 07:40 PM - Re: Elevator Counterbalance (richard sipp) 22. 07:43 PM - Re: GPS Antenna Mounting (orchidman) 23. 08:01 PM - Hangar Clean Out Day.... (Don Honabach) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:44:00 AM PST US From: "Carl Froehlich" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance There is not enough lead, even before trimming, to balance the elevators like you would on a two place RV. I called Van's about this and the response was for the RV-10 the elevators are supposed to be trailing edge heavy, and to trim and install the weights per plan. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (450 hours) RV-10 (fuselage) From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 11:53 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance Thanks Rick.. Even though the plans don't call for it, I'm assuming I should go ahead and torque them down now. Thanks, Phil _____ From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com] Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 10:04 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance Yup....drill out the amount needed to bring it into balance. Adding it in is a little tougher, but easily done casting some lead sheet to go under the attach bolts. Rick S. 40185 do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Perry" Sent: Friday, September 5, 2008 7:50:14 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance I've reached the point of trimming the counterbalance weights for the elevators. Without having a chance to balance the elevators first, trimming these weights make me a bit nervous. It seems like there is the possibility that Vans estimates could allow for too much removal. If I trim the weights as the plans describe, is there still more than enough lead remaining to balance the control surfaces later? If so, what's the process for removing the lead from a counterbalance weight that's already in place? A drill? Thanks, Phil 3D=========================3 D=================== href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matronics .com/Navigator?RV10-List 3D=========================3 D=================== href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=========================3 D=================== href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/co ntribution 3D=========================3 D=================== ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:28:16 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nav Antenna From: "AirMike" This is supposed to be a Nav antenna (25") repeat request for any info on anyone who has installed one??? -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - exited cabin top/door purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2884#202884 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:26:45 AM PST US From: Rick Sked Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance I wouldn't. =C2-I hung mine initally to see how close they were...very cl ose really,=C2-but you need to redo it after all the bodywork and paint i s completed...so snug them up to keep them in place unti; your final balcan e is completed, I use torq seal on everything so if I don't have the yellow seal I always recheck the torque, beats making a list as long as you stick to your method of never letting one go if it is not marked. Rick Sked 40185 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Perry" Sent: Friday, September 5, 2008 8:53:15 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance Thanks Rick.. Even though the plans don't call for it, I'm assuming I should go ahead and torque them down now. Thanks, Phil From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com] Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 10:04 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance Yup....drill out the amount needed to bring it into balance. Adding it in i s a little tougher, but easily done casting some lead sheet to go under the attach bolts. Rick S. 40185 do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Perry" Sent: Friday, September 5, 2008 7:50:14 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance I've reached the point of trimming the counterbalance weights for the eleva tors. Without having a chance to balance the elevators=C2-first, trimming these weights make me a bit nervous.=C2- It seems like there is the possibilit y that Vans estimates could allow for too much removal. If I trim the weights=C2-as the plans describe, is there still more than enough lead remaining to balance the control surfaces later? If so, what's the process for removing the lead from a counterbalance weigh t that's already in place?=C2- A=C2-drill? Thanks, Phil 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matron ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com /contribution 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 ================ ==== ======================= == ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:50:09 AM PST US From: John Gonzalez Subject: RV10-List: Door seals??????? I put my doors back on the plane with the stock seals in place, (properly placed) and I too found that the seals were way too thick to allow the doors to close. I have done a really nice job of getting the (outside) edges of the doors to fit to the cabin opening and also got an excellent fit where the inside cabin flange joins up with the inside of the door, I built it up to fit so that a business card can't even slide through. With the doors back on, the first thing I noticed was that the bottom seal was way too thick. I used a razor blade and cut the seals at the corners and removed the whole bottom piece. Tried it back on and it fit better but was still too thick in some areas. I next used a razor blade and put a single cut down the middle of the entire length of the seal. The seal does not seem to interfere at all with the fit, but what is left to be seen/felt is how effective the seal is with this approach. Again, I am also releying on the solid fit of the door to help with the air and not just this rubber seal. JOhn G. 409 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 11:54:30 AM PST US From: Jesse Saint Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door seals??????? The majority of air movement that you get without the seals is around the door hinges, so at least make sure you have a good seal there. do nor archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Sep 6, 2008, at 11:49 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > > > > I put my doors back on the plane with the stock seals in place, > (properly placed) and I too found that the seals were way too thick > to allow the doors to close. > > I have done a really nice job of getting the (outside) edges of the > doors to fit to the cabin opening and also got an excellent fit > where the inside cabin flange joins up with the inside of the door, > I built it up to fit so that a business card can't even slide through. > > With the doors back on, the first thing I noticed was that the > bottom seal was way too thick. I used a razor blade and cut the > seals at the corners and removed the whole bottom piece. Tried it > back on and it fit better but was still too thick in some areas. I > next used a razor blade and put a single cut down the middle of the > entire length of the seal. The seal does not seem to interfere at > all with the fit, but what is left to be seen/felt is how effective > the seal is with this approach. Again, I am also releying on the > solid fit of the door to help with the air and not just this rubber > seal. > > JOhn G. 409 > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:54:30 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: FW: Service Bulletin From: "Robin Marks" RV-list, We performed the tail plate SB this week. We have one observation on a tip that may make the process easier. Forgive me if this was mentioned before & I just didn't see or understand the posting at the time. The last thing we wanted to do is tear into the nearly fully assembled plane to perform this SB. But seeing that in my mind there was no option we started the disassembly. Instead of crawling in the tail and disconnecting the elevator trim cables, then removing the stabilizer/elevator from the airplane, we simply turned the assembly upside down, left the cables connected. It took about 4 hours to get to the point where we could start installing the stiffeners. Total time start to finish was ~12 hours. We also found a new use for the Port-A-Cool. At this point we now have a completed plane with an SJ cowl & custom airbox. We have completed the high speed taxi & brake test. Now we are just waiting on insurance coverage and for the plane to paint itself... Robin ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 12:30:18 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test From: "William Curtis" Consider that the Cirrus SR-20 and SR-22 with both 2 and 3 blade props don't have any direct prop control. They have only two prop speeds--2500 and 2700 RPM. 2700 RPM when the throttle is pushed in all the way and 2500 when the throttle is anywhere but full power. William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > I was thinking about this....may be I mean to say that at a given > manifold pressure (19.0 in my case), 2250 RPM, 10 gal and 12,500 (65% > as stated in lycoming HP chart) I will lose speed if I increase RPM > and keep everything else, including fuel, constant. > > Now guys, don't jump all over me for being wishy-washy! > > Rene, you should always be able to go faster at a higher altitude! > Right? > > At the end, I believe that we are very close to each other since it is > hard to make a major rigging error on the 10. We are just measuring > with different instruments and comparing speeds at different parameters. > > I have enclose two photos of my panel from a trip. They are both > taken on the same trip at different altitudes. I have done the GRT > speed correction but will try the GPS speed calibration for the next > one. Now, if my outside temp sensor is really out of wack and my > numbers are off, it is not my fault! > > I took these shots with the AP engaged and the plane level in smooth > air, with everything settled. Notice no vertical speed, TAS on the > right bottom and OAT. > > You might think that I am a real liar, but if I wiggle my rudder just > right, I get a couple of more knots. > > > > > > On Sep 3, 2008, at 7:04 PM, Rene Felker wrote: > > > > > Boy, I really feel slow now...... > > > > 12,500 > > 12.2 GPH Rich of peak > > 2480 RPM > > 161 knots (TAS from GRT) > > > > My speed test at 8000 feet and 75% power showed about 171......but I > > have > > not seen speeds like that in cruise at 12500. > > > > > > Rene' Felker > > RV-10 N423CF Flying > > 801-721-6080 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj > > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 4:28 PM > > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hartzell Composite Three blade RPM Test > > > > > > I have been reporting best speeds at 2250 RPM. Perhaps with your > > theory I can do better. I am curious and will test it and report > > back. > > > > I consistently get 172 kts at 12,500 with 10 gal/hr burn. Perhaps I > > really mean best speed/fuel economy combination and don't realize it. > > > > I do know that being in absolute smooth air and giving the plane a > > chance to accelerate for a few long minutes makes a big difference. > > The speed goes all over the place with the slightest turbulence. > > > > It will be a while before I can do the test but I WILL report back. I > > also need to qualify that I do not have three blades so, who knows! > > > > Thank for making me think. > > > > > > On Sep 3, 2008, at 1:40 PM, William Curtis wrote: > > > >> > >> > >> This is one of the reasons I shake my head when some report the best > >> speeds at some low ~2200-2400 RPM. I discovered when I was breaking > >> in a new engine on the Cardinal that my best power and speeds was at > >> 2700 RPM. Anything less than 2700 would produce a slower speed. > >> Now I primarily use two settings for my prop--2700 for takeoff, 2500 > >> for climb and cruise with occasional reduction during letdown. > >> > >> All things being equal, you will achieve the best power and speed > >> from a prop at 2700 RPM. At 2700 RPM, and 50 degree ambient > >> temperature, an 84" prop will have a tip speed of Mach 0.895. To > >> produce maximum thrust at full power your tip speed should fall > >> between .88 and .92 mach. The primary benefit of reducing RPM is > >> for increased passenger comfort (less noise) and reduced engine wear > >> an tear. > >> > >> What is the diameter of the Hartzell Composite Three blade? > >> > >> William > >> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ > >> > >> -------- Original Message -------- > >>> X-Rcpt-To: > >>> > >>> On my trip to Moses Lake and back over the weekend I tried different > >>> propeller RPM's for speed. I was level at 8500 Ft and full > >>> throttle. I started at > >>> 2600 RPM and then tried 2500, 2400, 2300, and 2200; for every 100 > >>> RPM drop I > >>> would see a couple of knots drop in airspeed. > >>> > >>> Rob Hickman > >>> N402RH RV-10 > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find > >>> your travel > >>> deal here. > >>> (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 02:09:49 PM PST US From: "James McGrew" Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Service Bulletin Thanks for the tip. I've been dreading having to deal with those cables again. This sounds like a real time saving idea. I'll be doing this next month during my annual. -Jim N312JE On Sat, Sep 6, 2008 at 1:52 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > RV-list, > > We performed the tail plate SB this week. We have one > observation on a tip that may make the process easier. Forgive me if this > was mentioned before & I just didn't see or understand the posting at the > time. > > The last thing we wanted to do is tear into the nearly fully > assembled plane to perform this SB. But seeing that in my mind there was no > option we started the disassembly. Instead of crawling in the tail and > disconnecting the elevator trim cables, then removing the > stabilizer/elevator from the airplane, we simply turned the assembly upsi de > down, left the cables connected. It took about 4 hours to get to the poi nt > where we could start installing the stiffeners. Total time start to finis h > was ~12 hours. We also found a new use for the Port-A-Cool. > > At this point we now have a completed plane with an SJ cowl & > custom airbox. We have completed the high speed taxi & brake test. Now we > are just waiting on insurance coverage and for the plane to paint itself =85 > > > Robin > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:39:05 PM PST US From: Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: Shoulder harness bracket partner14 wrote: > > Ok, the install is finished and it works and looks great. Based on the response I guess I need to run some more. Attached is a pic. > Rick Sked asked about using them as a headset holder.... I have a different bracket design already done and mounted in the plane. Will take a pic and send it out tomorrow. > Don McDonald > #40636 > > -------- > Don A. McDonald > 40636 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 1524#201524 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2629c_119.jpg > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 02:51:30 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: GPS Antenna Mounting From: "orchidman" I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the 430W GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like I have 2 options. On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door posts where the top is rather thin. The second location is centered between the door hinges where the top is very thick. Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw length or attaching the coax. If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about getting the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I would have the nuts tighten up against. Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 02:52:04 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit From: "jfgilmore" I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready to order the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom cowling and other components specific to the engine. I don't want to order a finish kit from Van's that comes with parts that I will not use. Does anyone have a shipping list for the finish kit who might also identify the parts I won't need? I would settle for just the finish kit inventory list. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 02:54:55 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Finish Kit From: "orchidman" Call Van's on Monday and request they FAX you a copy of a current packing list. That way you be assured of getting an up to date list. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2953#202953 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 03:20:55 PM PST US From: "Ben Westfall" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish Kit Here is the current up to date list as of 8/15/2008 direct from Van's 1.00 FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK 2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE 2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP 1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540 6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT 4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY 1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540 1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT 1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320 1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE 1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES 1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING 1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5 1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25 1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5 1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT 1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY. 1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT 1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27" 1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540 1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE 1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!! 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT 1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE 1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT 1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5 1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4 1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4 1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5 1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS 1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS 1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS 1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC. 1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS 1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS 1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW 1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE 1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540) 1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV 1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540) 1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT 1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5 1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD 1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN 1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfgilmore Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 2:52 PM Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready to order the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom cowling and other components specific to the engine. I don't want to order a finish kit from Van's that comes with parts that I will not use. Does anyone have a shipping list for the finish kit who might also identify the parts I won't need? I would settle for just the finish kit inventory list. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 03:53:12 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: GPS Antenna Mounting From: "McGANN, Ron" G'day Gary, I mounted mine on the top cabin centreline aft of the door posts in the thi nner material. Even there, the thickness of the cabin is close to 1/2" and the GPS antenna studs were not long enough. The studs are no where near l ong enough to penetrate the forward (thicker) part of the cabin. I made so me extensions out of steel tube tapped for the antenna studs, and threaded on the outside for the nuts. A bit of work but came out great. Antenna le ad passed through the windshield support brace and through a small cover st rip down the cabin top. I think you can buy an alternate antenna that has a flange mount rather tha n the studs. This (and some rivnuts)is probably a better option if you wan t to mount the antenna to the lid. cheers, Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of orchidman Sent: Sun 9/7/2008 7:21 AM Subject: RV10-List: GPS Antenna Mounting I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the 4 30W GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like I have 2 options. On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door posts where the top is rather thin. The second location is centered between the door hinges where the top is very thick. Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw length or attaching the coax. If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about getting the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I wou ld have the nuts tighten up against. Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts? -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951 "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 04:02:42 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS Antenna Mounting I don't know why you'd want to go to all that trouble unless your 430W is mounted to the cabin top too. I'm nowhere near the point of mounting anything electronic, so bear with me. Why not mount the GPS antenna (and any other satellite antenna) on the glareshield???? The signal attenuation due to the windshield is negligible. You could hide it under the cowl (I think even under the cabin top) as long as the carbon fiber isn't above it. Mine will probably go on the glareshield. Linn do not archive orchidman wrote: > > I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the 430W GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like I have 2 options. > On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door posts where the top is rather thin. The second location is centered between the door hinges where the top is very thick. > Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw length or attaching the coax. > If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about getting the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I would have the nuts tighten up against. > > Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts? > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB > (N2GB registered) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951 > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:18:09 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish Kit From: "William Curtis" You stated the Finish Kit but did you mean the Firewall Forward Kit? Seems you would want the Firewall Forward Kit as listed below. Not too much in the Finish Kit is specific to the engine. Get a current FF or Finish kit contents from Van's William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > Here is the current up to date list as of 8/15/2008 direct from Van's > > > 1.00 FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540 > 3.00 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK > 2.00 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE > 2.00 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CLAMP 4" HOSE CLAMP > 1.00 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540 > 6.00 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT > 4.00 EA DYNA VI I(O)-540 VIB.ISO. RV-10 ONLY > 1.00 EA OIL COOLER 20006A OIL COOLER I(O)-540 > 1.00 ES ALTERNATOR DELUXE 60A KIT W/OV PROTECT > 1.00 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320 > 1.00 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE > 1.00 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES > 1.00 PROP GOV MT P-860-3 I(O)-540 LYCOMING > 1.00 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5 > 1.00 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25 > 1.00 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5 > 1.00 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT > 1.00 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY. > 1.00 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT > 1.00 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 27" > 1.00 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540 > 1.00 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE > 1.00 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP !!SHARP!! > 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG > 1.00 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT > 1.00 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE > 1.00 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)-540 MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT > 1.00 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5 > 1.00 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4 > 1.00 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4 > 1.00 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5 > 1.00 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS > 1.00 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS > 1.00 BAG 522-1 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS > 1.00 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC. > 1.00 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS > 1.00 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS > 1.00 BAG 526-1 CABIN HEAT SHUTTLE HW > 1.00 PT-062X1/4X24" HIGH PRESSURE > 1.00 CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5 10 (I(O)-540) > 1.00 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV > 1.00 CT RED VMIXTURE 51.5 10 (I(O)-540) > 1.00 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO VERT > 1.00 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5 > 1.00 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD > 1.00 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN > 1.00 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfgilmore > Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 2:52 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Finish Kit > > > I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready to order > the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom cowling and other > components specific to the engine. I don't want to order a finish kit from > Van's that comes with parts that I will not use. Does anyone have a > shipping list for the finish kit who might also identify the parts I won't > need? I would settle for just the finish kit inventory list. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 05:17:13 PM PST US From: "Joe McKervey" Subject: Re: RV10-List: GPS Antenna Mounting For mounting between the doors you can use aluminum tube standoffs. drill the top skin the diameter of the screw and the inner cabin top for a snug fit of the standoff. Hope this helps Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "orchidman" Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 4:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: GPS Antenna Mounting > > I am to the point of needing to mount or at least drill the holes for the > 430W GPS antenna. I want to put it on top of the cabin but it looks like > I have 2 options. > On the cabin top center line for/aft; One is just behind the aft door > posts where the top is rather thin. The second location is centered > between the door hinges where the top is very thick. > Using the aft location, I don't think I would have any problems with screw > length or attaching the coax. > If I were to use the location between the door hings, I am concerned about > getting the coax connected and to a lesser extent the screws and what I > would have the nuts tighten up against. > > Where are others mounting their antenna and any thoughts? > > -------- > Gary Blankenbiller > RV10 - # 40674 > Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB > (N2GB registered) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2951#202951 > > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 06:27:07 PM PST US From: Les Kearney Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish Kit Hi What engine are you using? I am using an Eggenfellner E6TI (3.6l) Cheers Les Kearney #40643 - some assembly required Sent from my iPhone On 6-Sep-08, at 3:51 PM, jfgilmore wrote: > > I have decided to use an engine other than the IO-540 and am ready > to order the finish kit. My selected engine comes with a custom > cowling and other components specific to the engine. I don't want > to order a finish kit from Van's that comes with parts that I will > not use. Does anyone have a shipping list for the finish kit who > might also identify the parts I won't need? I would settle for just > the finish kit inventory list. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2952#202952 > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 06:33:56 PM PST US From: John Gonzalez Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seals??????? Left them completely intact in that area, no razor blade down the middle. Thanks, John ---------------------------------------- > From: jesse@saintaviation.com > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door seals??????? > Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 14:53:48 -0400 > > > The majority of air movement that you get without the seals is around > the door hinges, so at least make sure you have a good seal there. > > do nor archive > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse@saintaviation.com > Cell: 352-427-0285 > Fax: 815-377-3694 > > On Sep 6, 2008, at 11:49 AM, John Gonzalez wrote: > >> >> >> >> I put my doors back on the plane with the stock seals in place, >> (properly placed) and I too found that the seals were way too thick >> to allow the doors to close. >> >> I have done a really nice job of getting the (outside) edges of the >> doors to fit to the cabin opening and also got an excellent fit >> where the inside cabin flange joins up with the inside of the door, >> I built it up to fit so that a business card can't even slide through. >> >> With the doors back on, the first thing I noticed was that the >> bottom seal was way too thick. I used a razor blade and cut the >> seals at the corners and removed the whole bottom piece. Tried it >> back on and it fit better but was still too thick in some areas. I >> next used a razor blade and put a single cut down the middle of the >> entire length of the seal. The seal does not seem to interfere at >> all with the fit, but what is left to be seen/felt is how effective >> the seal is with this approach. Again, I am also releying on the >> solid fit of the door to help with the air and not just this rubber >> seal. >> >> JOhn G. 409 >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 07:34:23 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting From: "orchidman" pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth. wrote: > I don't know why you'd want to go to all that trouble unless your 430W > is mounted to the cabin top too. I'm nowhere near the point of mounting > anything electronic, so bear with me. Why not mount the GPS antenna > (and any other satellite antenna) on the glareshield???? The signal > attenuation due to the windshield is negligible. You could hide it > under the cowl (I think even under the cabin top) as long as the carbon > fiber isn't above it. Mine will probably go on the glareshield. > Linn > Linn, In the archives there is a rather large number of people experiencing problems mounting on the glare shield or under the cowl. I don't want to risk having a problem and having to 're-do' it. Thanks, Gary -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2985#202985 ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 07:40:12 PM PST US From: "richard sipp" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance Gentlemen: Let's remember that the 10 is the only RV that has a balance spec. It is found in the table in the text instructions (section 5 I think). They are not to be balanced "level" but with a maximum trailing edge down weight IIRC. There is a spec for each control surface. Naturally they should be checked after painting. Dick Sipp ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Sked To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 11:03 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance Yup....drill out the amount needed to bring it into balance. Adding it in is a little tougher, but easily done casting some lead sheet to go under the attach bolts. Rick S. 40185 do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Perry" To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, September 5, 2008 7:50:14 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Counterbalance I've reached the point of trimming the counterbalance weights for the elevators. Without having a chance to balance the elevators first, trimming these weights make me a bit nervous. It seems like there is the possibility that Vans estimates could allow for too much removal. If I trim the weights as the plans describe, is there still more than enough lead remaining to balance the control surfaces later? If so, what's the process for removing the lead from a counterbalance weight that's already in place? A drill? Thanks, Phil 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 07:43:39 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: GPS Antenna Mounting From: "orchidman" mckervey(at)charter.net wrote: > For mounting between the doors you can use aluminum tube standoffs. drill > the top skin the diameter of the screw and the inner cabin top for a snug > fit of the standoff. > > Hope this helps > > Joe > --- I think my next step is to get the coax connector and go from there. Guess I will be making a call to Stein Monday. -------- Gary Blankenbiller RV10 - # 40674 Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB (N2GB registered) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 2986#202986 ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 08:01:00 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Hangar Clean Out Day.... From: "Don Honabach" Hangar clean out day continues: I've put the following items up for sale on eBay... All these items are essentially new units (zero time). They were purchased as I was building my plane and now I don't need. The Stratus EA-81 and FWF Kit has no reserve - needless to say, I'll be sleeping on the couch tonight! Stratus EA-81 and Zenith 601 Firewall Forward Kit http://tinyurl.com/6n9wxo Apollo GX65 - Panel Mount Combo GPS/Comm unit http://tinyurl.com/5u772b Rocky Mountain's microMonitor (Engine + More Monitor) http://tinyurl.com/5lg2ku Dynon EFIS-D10 - Glass Cockput http://tinyurl.com/5h9fvh Don Honabach Zodiac 601HDS Tempe, AZ DO NOT ARCHIVE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.