Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:41 AM - Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage (Rodger Todd)
2. 04:42 AM - Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage (Rodger Todd)
3. 04:52 AM - Re: N515FW (Wayne Edgerton)
4. 09:06 AM - engine transport (Marcus Cooper)
5. 10:00 AM - Re: engine transport (linn Walters)
6. 10:08 AM - Re: engine transport (John Cox)
7. 01:16 PM - Re: engine transport (KiloPapa)
8. 01:22 PM - Resizing pictures for posting (KiloPapa)
9. 01:35 PM - Prop crate size/weight (Chris)
10. 01:51 PM - Re: Prop crate size/weight (Chris)
11. 02:32 PM - Re: Prop crate size/weight (AirMike)
12. 02:54 PM - Installed standard Vans door lock (AirMike)
13. 02:56 PM - Re: cabin heat cables where and how? (AirMike)
14. 05:20 PM - Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage (Rick Sked)
15. 06:06 PM - Re: engine transport (Jesse Saint)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage |
Hi Everyone,
I have managed at long last to get the u/c brackets out.
It appeared that the guys in the Phillipines didn't chamfer the bottom edge of
of the flange on the F-1004D's. If they had done so a) they wouldn't have left
a non deburred edge there and b) the u/c brackets would probably have come out
with ease. This has held me up by over 6 months.
The front floors came out relatively easily. I too found that the area under the
floor did would not appear to have been primed, strange since the areas under
the rear floors did appear to be primed.
I'm going to sound proof the area under the front floors with Orkotec blanket which
is exceptionally light.
Many thanks to all who offered advice on how I could get the u/c brackets free;
it was much appreciated,
Rodger
--- On Sat, 9/8/08, Rodger Todd <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk>
> Subject: RV10-List: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, 9 August, 2008, 2:00 PM
> <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk>
>
> Hullo Everyone,
>
> Is there anyone out there who has successfully managed to
> remove the main under carriage brackets from their QB
> fuselage?
>
> There was a link some time ago where the question was asked
> how people had managed to remove the bolts and after many
> hours I have succeded in that. Apparently most were
> defeated and gave up any idea of inspecting under those
> floors, installing insulation/wiring/whatever there. My QB
> came with the front cabin floors temporarily in place. To
> be able to remove them you need to remove the u/c brackets.
>
> Now the bolts are out, I find that I am unable to get the
> u/c brackets out because you need to pull them forwards
> whilst at the same time dropping the front attachment bar of
> the u/c bracket below the level of the front floor which is
> clearly impossible. Hence the question, has anyone managed
> to solve the puzzle short of destroying the front floors -
> Tim's log stated that his floors were not supplied with
> his kit and he did not have this problem.
>
> I'm dreading the reconstruction ............!
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Rodger 40437
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Not happy with your email address?.
> Get the one you really want - millions of new email
> addresses available now at Yahoo!
> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/ymail/new.html
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage |
Hi Everyone,
I have managed at long last to get the u/c brackets out.
It appeared that the guys in the Phillipines didn't chamfer the bottom edge of
of the flange on the F-1004D's. If they had done so a) they wouldn't have left
a non deburred edge there and b) the u/c brackets would probably have come out
with ease. This has held me up by over 6 months.
The front floors came out relatively easily. I too found that the area under the
floor did not appear to have been primed, strange since the areas under the
rear floors did appear to be primed.
I'm going to sound proof the area under the front floors with Orkotec blanket which
is exceptionally light.
Many thanks to all who offered advice on how I could get the u/c brackets free;
it was much appreciated,
Rodger
--- On Sat, 9/8/08, Rodger Todd <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk>
> Subject: RV10-List: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, 9 August, 2008, 2:00 PM
> <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk>
>
> Hullo Everyone,
>
> Is there anyone out there who has successfully managed to
> remove the main under carriage brackets from their QB
> fuselage?
>
> There was a link some time ago where the question was asked
> how people had managed to remove the bolts and after many
> hours I have succeded in that. Apparently most were
> defeated and gave up any idea of inspecting under those
> floors, installing insulation/wiring/whatever there. My QB
> came with the front cabin floors temporarily in place. To
> be able to remove them you need to remove the u/c brackets.
>
> Now the bolts are out, I find that I am unable to get the
> u/c brackets out because you need to pull them forwards
> whilst at the same time dropping the front attachment bar of
> the u/c bracket below the level of the front floor which is
> clearly impossible. Hence the question, has anyone managed
> to solve the puzzle short of destroying the front floors -
> Tim's log stated that his floors were not supplied with
> his kit and he did not have this problem.
>
> I'm dreading the reconstruction ............!
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Rodger 40437
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Not happy with your email address?.
> Get the one you really want - millions of new email
> addresses available now at Yahoo!
> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/ymail/new.html
>
>
Message 3
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Hello Fred,
Congratulations on getting to this stage. It is a wonderful feeling
after all that work you did between patients :>} I know if you are like
me you still have a lot of loose ends to complete but they get much
easier now that you can fly it. Heck I spent a couple of days last week
on stuff and I've been flying well over a year. A person is always
trying to fine tune things.
Get comfortable with your fly off and then we can meet somewhere for
lunch within your 75 mile fly off radius.
Wayne Edgerton
Time: 12:18:02 PM PST US
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: N515FW
N515FW took to the air this am. Flew for one hr. Flight was
uneventful. Once I was able to trim out she flew hands off and
rock
steady. I had too much nose down trim on takeoff. Cylinder temps
in
325-50 range. Landing approach at 85 k and stall warning off
just
before main wheel touchdown. Noted to be using 19 gal /hr at 25
sq.
Will get some pics later. Cruising about 145k with no wheel
pants.
Keep building. This last 3 years was worth it. Now I'm going to
spend
the next few years figuring out all the whiz bangs on the panel.
Dr Fred.
N515FW
To John Cox
Add me to the flying database :)
Message 4
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| Subject: | engine transport |
Kind of an off topic question, but this the best forum I've seen to get
ideas.
As a gluten for punishment, I've started another project, a Steen Skybolt
(repeat offender in that as well as the RVs). Due to retiring I'll be
moving and am trying to find the best way to move the engine. It's
currently on the airplane but the airframe would be easier to move and fit
better in the truck if I take the engine off. I'm leaning toward leaving
the engine attached to the mount and set in on the floor pointed nose up
with the engine mount on the floor of the truck. BTW the engine is the same
as in my -10, IO-540-D4A5.
Any concerns over traveling for a day with the engine pointed up instead of
horizontal?
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: engine transport |
Marcus Cooper wrote:
> Kind of an off topic question, but this the best forum Ive seen to get
> ideas.
>
>
>
> As a gluten for punishment, Ive started another project, a Steen
> Skybolt (repeat offender in that as well as the RVs). Due to retiring
> Ill be moving and am trying to find the best way to move the engine.
> Its currently on the airplane but the airframe would be easier to move
> and fit better in the truck if I take the engine off. Im leaning
> toward leaving the engine attached to the mount and set in on the floor
> pointed nose up with the engine mount on the floor of the truck. BTW
> the engine is the same as in my -10, IO-540-D4A5.
>
>
>
> Any concerns over traveling for a day with the engine pointed up instead
> of horizontal?
It'll ride just fine that way. You've probably thought of draining the
oil already. If the truck has wood floor, drive a few drywall screws
through the mount to keep it from walking.
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Marcus
>
> Do not archive
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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| Subject: | engine transport |
At any given moment, there are intake and exhaust valves at various
stages of being open (from the camshaft lobes). Fluids can seep by the
rings. Make sure your oil level does not allow leakage out any openings
to areas not intended. Have a great drive. It is called a Sump and
placed so gravity keeps fluids in the correct locations.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 9:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: engine transport
Kind of an off topic question, but this the best forum I've seen to get
ideas.
As a gluten for punishment, I've started another project, a Steen
Skybolt (repeat offender in that as well as the RVs). Due to retiring
I'll be moving and am trying to find the best way to move the engine.
It's currently on the airplane but the airframe would be easier to move
and fit better in the truck if I take the engine off. I'm leaning
toward leaving the engine attached to the mount and set in on the floor
pointed nose up with the engine mount on the floor of the truck. BTW
the engine is the same as in my -10, IO-540-D4A5.
Any concerns over traveling for a day with the engine pointed up instead
of horizontal?
Thanks,
Marcus
Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: engine transport |
Here is how the engine I bought from a private party was secured for
shipping. (Plywood box cover removed)
Kevin
40494
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Resizing pictures for posting |
For Microsoft XP users:
I find that it is common to receive pictures that are extremely large for both
viewing in email and the data transfer. There is a very simple free tool from
Microsoft for resizing pictures. It is part of the PowerToys set of utilities.
After installation it is available from the right-click menu. The original
file remains untouched and a file with the same name and appended with the picture
size is created. I have found that using the "Medium" setting usually makes
for a good fit in email.
Find it here:
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx
Scroll down the right side of the screen and look for ImageResizer.exe
Play around with it and you might find it useful. Simply uninstall it if you don't
like it.
Kevin
40494
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6608#206608
Message 9
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| Subject: | Prop crate size/weight |
I will be picking up my blended airfoil hartzell from the trucking
terminal... does anyone know the size and weight of the crate? I am
wondering if I can fit it in the Passat Wagon.
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Prop crate size/weight |
Never mind found it in the archives. sorry.
-Chris
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 4:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Prop crate size/weight
I will be picking up my blended airfoil hartzell from the trucking
terminal... does anyone know the size and weight of the crate? I am
wondering if I can fit it in the Passat Wagon.
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Prop crate size/weight |
With the box it is about 70-90 lbs.
It can hang out the back as long as the hub is contained in the car.
Just watch the ends
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6618#206618
Message 12
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| Subject: | Installed standard Vans door lock |
Just installed the standard Vans door lock. Not the greatest. In a prior post I
think that Mr. Saint put out the idea that it would fit best if the lock stopped
the mechanism at a 180 degree angle rather than the 90 degree that seems
to be the default.
Since my pin throw is about 1.2" and the stock lock has a .90" lever, I installed
it the intuitive easy way. This also eliminated having to put a hole on the
inboard side of the door.
After installation you will note that the standard throw lever sits too far inboard
to catch the geared pin. You have to weld or rivet an extra piece on the
lower part of the lever. You can also tighten up the fit at this point to take
out the wiggle factor.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6623#206623
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: cabin heat cables where and how? |
Note - do not do a permanent install till your panel is all ready to install as
the heater cables have to be removed and run thru the hole in the bracket or
panel.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 6626#206626
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage |
Not to deflate you QB guys so ready to blame the Philippine $2.00 an hour A & P's,
but there is a real puzzle that you get REAL used to when removing those
Main Gear Brackets if you built your own fuselage...deburred edge or not, it's
a lift, rotate, twist, turn, rotate, lift, pull amd nudge sequence that will
yield a positive result...I wish I could remember the exact sequence...but if
you built your fuselage from the standard kit...it would make more sense...not
that I'm bitter, casting stones or anything...I just know my fuselage better!
;b
Did you find any rogue clecos under those seat pans?.. P.I. FOD...has taken out
an F-4 or two at Clark I'd wager (rest that wonderful places soul) Alas, nothin
a trip to the Fire Empire or Nepa Hut coudn't cure!
Rick Sked
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodger Todd" <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk>
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 4:40:20 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage
Hi Everyone,
I have managed at long last to get the u/c brackets out.
It appeared that the guys in the Phillipines didn't chamfer the bottom edge of
of the flange on the F-1004D's. If they had done so a) they wouldn't have left
a non deburred edge there and b) the u/c brackets would probably have come out
with ease. This has held me up by over 6 months.
The front floors came out relatively easily. I too found that the area under the
floor did would not appear to have been primed, strange since the areas under
the rear floors did appear to be primed.
I'm going to sound proof the area under the front floors with Orkotec blanket which
is exceptionally light.
Many thanks to all who offered advice on how I could get the u/c brackets free;
it was much appreciated,
Rodger
--- On Sat, 9/8/08, Rodger Todd <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk>
> Subject: RV10-List: Removal of u/c brackets from QB fuselage
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, 9 August, 2008, 2:00 PM
> <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk>
>
> Hullo Everyone,
>
> Is there anyone out there who has successfully managed to
> remove the main under carriage brackets from their QB
> fuselage?
>
> There was a link some time ago where the question was asked
> how people had managed to remove the bolts and after many
> hours I have succeded in that. Apparently most were
> defeated and gave up any idea of inspecting under those
> floors, installing insulation/wiring/whatever there. My QB
> came with the front cabin floors temporarily in place. To
> be able to remove them you need to remove the u/c brackets.
>
> Now the bolts are out, I find that I am unable to get the
> u/c brackets out because you need to pull them forwards
> whilst at the same time dropping the front attachment bar of
> the u/c bracket below the level of the front floor which is
> clearly impossible. Hence the question, has anyone managed
> to solve the puzzle short of destroying the front floors -
> Tim's log stated that his floors were not supplied with
> his kit and he did not have this problem.
>
> I'm dreading the reconstruction ............!
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Rodger 40437
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Not happy with your email address?.
> Get the one you really want - millions of new email
> addresses available now at Yahoo!
> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/ymail/new.html
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: engine transport |
I'd see if anybody near you has recently received an engine and still
have their shipping crate. You could just borrow (or otherwise
acquire) it and ship that way. That's the safest way I can think of.
Might be an engine or airplane shop near you that has a crate they
would let you have. Maybe worth a couple of calls. I'd give you one
but I usually just keep one on hand in case I need it and disassemble
the rest.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Sep 28, 2008, at 12:05 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
> Kind of an off topic question, but this the best forum I=92ve seen to
> get ideas.
>
> As a gluten for punishment, I=92ve started another project, a Steen
> Skybolt (repeat offender in that as well as the RVs). Due to
> retiring I=92ll be moving and am trying to find the best way to move
> the engine. It=92s currently on the airplane but the airframe would
> be easier to move and fit better in the truck if I take the engine
> off. I=92m leaning toward leaving the engine attached to the mount
> and set in on the floor pointed nose up with the engine mount on the
> floor of the truck. BTW the engine is the same as in my -10, IO-540-
> D4A5.
>
> Any concerns over traveling for a day with the engine pointed up
> instead of horizontal?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
> Do not archive
>
>
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