Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:04 AM - IO-540 Roller Tappet Kit Available (Rhonda Bewley)
2. 10:08 AM - upper fwd fuselage rib mods (woxofswa)
3. 10:36 AM - Re: upper fwd fuselage rib mods (John Gonzalez)
4. 10:48 AM - Re: Lightspeed Zulu (WMD)
5. 11:00 AM - Re: upper fwd fuselage rib mods (orchidman)
6. 12:33 PM - Vans EI60 alternator (David McNeill)
7. 12:46 PM - RV10 : [ Terry McMillan ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! (Email List PhotoShares)
8. 01:17 PM - RV10 : [ Harry DeLoach ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! (Email List PhotoShares)
9. 01:25 PM - RV10 : [ Peter James ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! (Email List PhotoShares)
10. 02:56 PM - Re: Re: upper fwd fuselage rib mods (William Curtis)
11. 05:57 PM - Re: cowling bubble (ddnebert)
12. 07:03 PM - Re: Re: cowling bubble (Dj Merrill)
13. 11:05 PM - Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) (AirMike)
14. 11:17 PM - Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) (McGANN, Ron)
15. 11:32 PM - Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) (Albert Gardner)
16. 11:39 PM - Re: upper fwd fuselage rib mods (Albert Gardner)
Message 1
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Subject: | IO-540 Roller Tappet Kit Available |
All:
Sorry for the blatant commercial plug here folks, but I have a customer
who is facing an indefinite delay in his RV-10 build. He has had his
engine on order here for some time and the 540 kit is stock, awaiting
assembly. He has authorized me to make his kit available to the market
for someone who is looking to purchase an engine.
I have not had a price increase in kits since this individual ordered
his engine. However, I have been told by Lycoming that kits will go up
effective 1/1/09. I have also been told that with Champion taking over
Unison's magneto lines, we will probably see a 15% price increase in
magnetos. If you are close to ordering your engine and want to take
delivery prior to the price increases, please let me know and I will
honor our 2007 pricing on this kit. If you would like to consider
purchasing the engine but are not ready to take delivery until after
1/1/09, I will gladly sell you the kit at '07 pricing with the exception
of any increases in accessory pricing.
The engine can be built in stock configuration or customized with cold
air induction and/or high compression pistons. Please contact me
directly for detailed information regarding pricing if you are
interested.
Thank you.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
Message 2
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Subject: | upper fwd fuselage rib mods |
I am building my upper fwd fuselage assembly. I know some folks have modified
the ribs for more clearance. Van's recommends waiting until I have my avionics
picked out and at hand before modifying, but it seems much easier to do now.
I am planning a normal EFIS stack either GRT or Dynon.
I was thinking of using the angle left over from the skin bending angles to mod
the ribs.
Should I clear out as much room as I can now or wait until later?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7559#207559
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Subject: | upper fwd fuselage rib mods |
Having just completed this with my panel all wired and together=2C I don't
see how you can do anything until you have the instruments mounted in the p
anel. Not only do you have to worry about the actual device(s)=2C but also
the connectors coming out of the back of the unit(s).
If you want to do it twice=2C you can do it now and then again later.
I'd wait.
John G. 409> Subject: RV10-List: upper fwd fuselage rib mods> From: woxof@a
ol.com> Date: Mon=2C 6 Oct 2008 10:07:19 -0700> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
lding my upper fwd fuselage assembly. I know some folks have modified the r
ibs for more clearance. Van's recommends waiting until I have my avionics p
icked out and at hand before modifying=2C but it seems much easier to do no
w.> > I am planning a normal EFIS stack either GRT or Dynon.> > I was think
ing of using the angle left over from the skin bending angles to mod the ri
bs.> > Should I clear out as much room as I can now or wait until later?> >
--------> Myron Nelson> Mesa=2C AZ> Emp completed=2C legacy build fuse in
progress> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.c
====================> > >
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Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Zulu |
Jesse,
Sent you and email on this group buy.
Thanks,
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7563#207563
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Subject: | Re: upper fwd fuselage rib mods |
woxofswa wrote:
> I am building my upper fwd fuselage assembly. I know some folks have modified
the ribs for more clearance. Van's recommends waiting until I have my avionics
picked out and at hand before modifying, but it seems much easier to do now.
>
> I am planning a normal EFIS stack either GRT or Dynon.
>
> I was thinking of using the angle left over from the skin bending angles to mod
the ribs.
>
> Should I clear out as much room as I can now or wait until later?
Get your instruments or exact mock up of them, lay out your panel and then figure
out how much you will need to trim the ribs.
As woxofswa notes, make sure you include the connectors, both electrical and pitot/static
that might be required.
Also, the top skin is the LAST thing you want to install. Get your wiring complete
before you put the top on followed by the wind screen. I am just finishing
up the wiring and working on the doors. After I finish them, I will put the
gear on, and then the engine. Some where in that stage, I will put the top
cover on, windshield and finish the cowling.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7564#207564
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Subject: | Vans EI60 alternator |
Just found the pdf for the EI60. It's at
http://www.plane-power.com/installation%20instructions.htm . It contains the
info on the replacement belt.
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Subject: | RV10 : [ Terry McMillan ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! |
(Listers - Sorry for the delay in processing this Photoshare; all of the incoming
Photoshares where getting caught by my email client's spam filter. I wondered
why nobody had posted a Photoshare in a long while... I've fixed the filter
and Photoshares should be processed in a normal period of time now. -Matt)
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
Poster: Terry McMillan <terryml5c2p6@sympatico.ca>
Lists: AeroElectric-list,RV-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV10-List,RV9-List
Subject: Dual Battery System
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/terryml5c2p6@sympatico.ca.10.06.2008
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Subject: | RV10 : [ Harry DeLoach ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! |
(Listers - Sorry for the delay in processing this Photoshare; all of the incoming
Photoshares where getting caught by my email client's spam filter. I wondered
why nobody had posted a Photoshare in a long while... I've fixed the filter
and Photoshares should be processed in a normal period of time now. -Matt)
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
Poster: Harry DeLoach <harry.deloach@navy.mil>
Lists: RV-List,RV10-List
Subject: Leaving Pensacola with a load of Schrimp...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/harry.deloach@navy.mil.10.06.2008
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Subject: | RV10 : [ Peter James ] : New Email List PhotoShare Available! |
(Listers - Sorry for the delay in processing this Photoshare; all of the incoming
Photoshares where getting caught by my email client's spam filter. I wondered
why nobody had posted a Photoshare in a long while... I've fixed the filter
and Photoshares should be processed in a normal period of time now. -Matt)
A new Email List PhotoShare is available:
Poster: Peter James <Peter.James@sprint.com>
Lists: RV10-List
Subject: RV-10 Hartzell Prop Spinner Cut Diagram
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Peter.James@sprint.com.10.06.2008
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Message 10
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Subject: | Re: upper fwd fuselage rib mods |
I will offer that planes constructed such that wiring and avionics done prior to
close-up, without good consideration to maintenance, troubleshooting and upgrades
after construction, will be maintenance and upgrade nightmares. One way
to reduce the risk of this is to put a basic ground work in place prior to close-up
and then perform these functions after closeup. Avionics radio racks are
relatively standard and you can find the exact measurements for each possible
device in the installation manuals. This is why you can put an avionics device
in an aircraft manufactured 40 years ago and not have to "rebuild" the aircraft--in
most cases. The secondary benefit is that it allows you to wait until
the last possible moment before you purchase your avionics.
My top skin and lid is on. All electrical work was done after this and in such
a ways that I can re-do at any time without any extraordinary methods. I have
standard radio rack rails, front and rear that are 6.375" wide to allow for
most radio racks and associated clip-nuts. Also, I see a lot of builders using
nyloc nuts to hold their radio racks in place. These are easy enough to install
when things are open but will be very difficult to remove and replace when
the panel is in place. The standard for holding radio racks in place on certified
aircraft is to use floating clip-nuts. This is but one of those minor
changes that can make a big difference for maintenance and post construction installations.
If you construct your aircraft in such a way that system installations can only
be done during construction, you better hope the installation is perfect and
you will never want to upgrade. Consider not only the installation, but also
post construction maintenance and upgrades.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/08fuselage/fuselage41m.html
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> woxofswa wrote:
> > I am building my upper fwd fuselage assembly. I know some folks have modified
the ribs for more clearance. Van's recommends waiting until I have my avionics
picked out and at hand before modifying, but it seems much easier to do
now.
> >
> > I am planning a normal EFIS stack either GRT or Dynon.
> >
> > I was thinking of using the angle left over from the skin bending angles to
mod the ribs.
> >
> > Should I clear out as much room as I can now or wait until later?
>
> Get your instruments or exact mock up of them, lay out your panel and then figure
out how much you will need to trim the ribs.
> As woxofswa notes, make sure you include the connectors, both electrical and
pitot/static that might be required.
> Also, the top skin is the LAST thing you want to install. Get your wiring complete
before you put the top on followed by the wind screen. I am just finishing
up the wiring and working on the doors. After I finish them, I will put
the gear on, and then the engine. Some where in that stage, I will put the top
cover on, windshield and finish the cowling.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Instrument Panel, Fiberglass - SB
> (N2GB registered)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7564#207564
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: cowling bubble |
My hangarmate just completed a Glastar Sportsman and needed to add a bulge on the
fiberglass cowling to accommodate some accessory. So they marked the spot,
cut a circular hole, made a form using an object of appropriate size (in the
hole) and glassed over it. After sanding, the bump-out looks like it belongs there
and it provides the clearance they were looking for.
I'm not so comfortable with fiberglass myself, and have avoided those parts of
the wingtips so far...
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Tail mostly done, wings complete, middle of SB fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7690#207690
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: cowling bubble |
ddnebert wrote:
> I'm not so comfortable with fiberglass myself, and have avoided those parts of
the wingtips so far...
FWIW, I just went to one of the SportAir 2 day workshops on composites
last weekend. Prior to the class, I felt as you do. Now, I am
completely confident that I could do a cowling bubble or wingtips, and
although time consuming, it is actually pretty easy.
Spend a weekend at one of the SportAir classes - you won't regret it! :-)
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
Message 13
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Subject: | Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
The plans in section 50 say to deform the Scat tube where it passes over the fuel
selector valve. I am having difficulty deforming my scat tube enough to put
the front section of the cover on the tunnel. Also the screws from the fasteners
will perforate the scat tube. Has anyone used a splitter or run the tube below
the valve between the fuel lines and the valve?
I imagine that Vans has a reason for doing it this way (on top) but I cannot for
the life of me figure out why.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7726#207726
Message 14
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Subject: | Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
Yes I found this to be a mongrel of a job and my scat now has some
strategically placed heatshrink tape and some additional layers of
electrical tape where the nutplates punched a nice hole while 'deforming
to fit'.
Cheers
Ron
-187 painting
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, 7 October 2008 4:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
The plans in section 50 say to deform the Scat tube where it passes over
the fuel selector valve. I am having difficulty deforming my scat tube
enough to put the front section of the cover on the tunnel. Also the
screws from the fasteners will perforate the scat tube. Has anyone used
a splitter or run the tube below the valve between the fuel lines and
the valve?
I imagine that Vans has a reason for doing it this way (on top) but I
cannot for the life of me figure out why.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 7726#207726
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Message 15
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Subject: | Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
You can run the tube where ever you want keeping in mind that you will want
to be able to inspect/replace the fuel filter and have access to items in
the tunnel. If you plan on running it underneath the selector make sure it
does not interfere with the fuel lines. Some builders have placed the
selector much lower than Van did and used an extension shaft for the
selector knob. The fuel line routing from an Andair selector is somewhat
different that from Vans fuel selector.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube)
The plans in section 50 say to deform the Scat tube where it passes over the
fuel selector valve. I am having difficulty deforming my scat tube enough to
put the front section of the cover on the tunnel. Also the screws from the
fasteners will perforate the scat tube. Has anyone used a splitter or run
the tube below the valve between the fuel lines and the valve?
I imagine that Vans has a reason for doing it this way (on top) but I cannot
for the life of me figure out why.
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
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Subject: | upper fwd fuselage rib mods |
You are probably aware that Van would prefer that those ribs not be modified
although many builders have found it necessary to do so. I would not hasten
that step though-after you get your avionics you may find altering the
position even slightly can change the amount of modification necessary. And
as others have pointed out you need clearance for more than just the tray.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
I am building my upper fwd fuselage assembly. I know some folks have
modified the ribs for more clearance. Van's recommends waiting until I have
my avionics picked out and at hand before modifying, but it seems much
easier to do now.
I am planning a normal EFIS stack either GRT or Dynon.
I was thinking of using the angle left over from the skin bending angles to
mod the ribs.
Should I clear out as much room as I can now or wait until later?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
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