Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:33 AM - Re: When to install door windows (Vernon Smith)
     2. 11:13 AM - Alternator wire length - request (AirMike)
     3. 11:46 AM - Re: Alternator wire length - request (Jesse Saint)
     4. 12:13 PM - Re: Alternator wire length - request (David McNeill)
     5. 05:22 PM - Re: Re: Harness and headset brackets (John Cumins)
     6. 06:11 PM - Re: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles offer (truflite)
     7. 06:17 PM - Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (partner14)
     8. 06:49 PM - Re: Re: Harness and headset brackets (Don McDonald)
     9. 06:50 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
    10. 07:12 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Rick Sked)
    11. 07:18 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Rick Sked)
    12. 07:21 PM - Re: Re: Harness and headset brackets (Rick Sked)
    13. 07:46 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Tim Olson)
    14. 08:41 PM - Elevator Trim Tab Travel (Perry, Phil)
    15. 10:07 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Don McDonald)
    16. 10:09 PM - Re: Alternator wire length - request (nukeflyboy)
    17. 10:34 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Don McDonald)
    18. 10:44 PM - Re: Alternator wire length - request (AirMike)
    19. 10:50 PM - Re: When to install door windows (AirMike)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | When to install door windows | 
      
      Gary=2C
      
      I held off on my windows until the lock hardware and door gas strut mounts 
      were installed without any problems. 
      
      One thing I wish I had done early on was install the door seals. This would
       have saved a lot of fiberglass refinishing. These were installed before do
      ing the windows but after getting a great fit on the doors. However=2C when
       the stock door seals were added the door stood proud of the cabin top by 1
      /16" to 3/16".   And now that my windows are installed I'm going back and r
      efinishing the doors  to fit the cabin top.
      
      Vern Smith (#324 almost ready for gear)
      
      do not archive  
      
      
      > Subject: RV10-List: When to install door windows
      > From: gary@wingscc.com
      > Date: Sun=2C 12 Oct 2008 08:23:11 -0700
      > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
      > 
      > 
      > Some time today=2C I should finish the second door installation.  That is
       on the hinges and trimmed to fit.  Van's plans say to next install the win
      dows.  I would like to hold off and complete the locking hardware before I 
      install the windows.
      > I would like to hold off for several reasons=2C one being weight as the d
      oor will be on and off many more times and also to minimize the possibility
       of scratching them.
      > 
      > My question is=2C is there any valid reason against moving the installati
      on of the windows to after the door lock hardware is installed?
      > 
      > --------
      > Gary Blankenbiller
      > RV10 - # 40674
      > Instrument Panel=2C Fiberglass - SB
      > (N2GB registered)
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8371#208371
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Stay up to date on your PC=2C the Web=2C and your mobile phone with Windows
       Live.
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Alternator wire length - request | 
      
      
      I am installing the main #8 wire from the panel to the alternator. Due to the breaker
      location on the panel, I think that I might be coming up short running
      it to the alternator. It is called wire #J1 in the Vans wiring kit.
      
      Question? To run it to the alternator - how much wire (length) do you need in front
      of the firewall where it emerges from the left side of the firewall to the
      alternator.
      
      If I do not have enough #8 wire, I will have to buy a new one as I was told on
      the high voltage wires to NOT solder them together or make any type of break in
      the wire.
      
      --------
      OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
      Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8539#208539
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Alternator wire length - request | 
      
      
      I don't know the distance off hand, but you could run it out the right  
      side of the FW since the Alternator is on that side.
      
      The alternator is not high voltage, but it is high amperage.  One  
      thing I have done in the past is to crimp on a ring terminal forward  
      of the firewall and use a separate piece going from there to the  
      alternator, then you can bolt the two ring terminals together and put  
      a good heavy piece(s) of heat shrink (or other insulator) over the  
      joint.  This would allow you to disconnect it if/when you take the  
      engine off in the future also, without having to untie everything that  
      is holding the alternator wire as it works its way forward to the  
      alternator.
      
      do not archive
      
      Jesse Saint
      Saint Aviation, Inc.
      jesse@saintaviation.com
      Cell: 352-427-0285
      Fax: 815-377-3694
      
      On Oct 13, 2008, at 2:12 PM, AirMike wrote:
      
      >
      > I am installing the main #8 wire from the panel to the alternator.  
      > Due to the breaker location on the panel, I think that I might be  
      > coming up short running it to the alternator. It is called wire #J1  
      > in the Vans wiring kit.
      >
      > Question? To run it to the alternator - how much wire (length) do  
      > you need in front of the firewall where it emerges from the left  
      > side of the firewall to the alternator.
      >
      > If I do not have enough #8 wire, I will have to buy a new one as I  
      > was told on the high voltage wires to NOT solder them together or  
      > make any type of break in the wire.
      >
      > --------
      > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
      > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8539#208539
      >
      >
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Alternator wire length - request | 
      
      
      Its easrier to run the alternator wire inside from the breaker to the right
      side of the firewall as the alternator will be on the right side of the
      engine. Also do not understand the high voltage business as the highest
      voltage they will see is about 14v DC. Inserta a piece of #8 with butt
      connectors 
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
      Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 11:12 AM
      Subject: RV10-List: Alternator wire length - request
      
      
      I am installing the main #8 wire from the panel to the alternator. Due to
      the breaker location on the panel, I think that I might be coming up short
      running it to the alternator. It is called wire #J1 in the Vans wiring kit.
      
      Question? To run it to the alternator - how much wire (length) do you need
      in front of the firewall where it emerges from the left side of the firewall
      to the alternator.
      
      If I do not have enough #8 wire, I will have to buy a new one as I was told
      on the high voltage wires to NOT solder them together or make any type of
      break in the wire.
      
      --------
      OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8539#208539
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Harness and headset brackets | 
      
      Don 
      
      
      Is it to late to order both of theses items I am just starting but would not
      mind sitting on them until needed.  
      
      
      John G. Cumins
      
      President
      
      
      JC'S Interactive Systems
      
      2499 B1 Martin Rd
      
      Fairfield Ca 94533
      
      707-425-7100
      
      707-425-7576 Fax
      
      
      Your Total Technology Solution Provider
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
      Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 6:34 PM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets
      
      
      Thanks, just want to make sure everyone gets em'.
      
      Don
      
      
      --- On Sun, 10/12/08, nukeflyboy <flymoore@charter.net> wrote:
      
      From: nukeflyboy <flymoore@charter.net>
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets
      
      <flymoore@charter.net>
      
      Don,
      I received both as requested.  I haven't gotten to the installation yet but
      they look good.
      
      --------
      Dave Moore
      RV-6 flying
      RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8444#208444
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles offer | 
      
      
      In response to Mike's post above, below is the original post thread.  Email me
      direct for more information.  Please, look at the pictures I have posted off site.
      I am adding  more pics  immediately.
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=48900&sid=2cbd4c2bd76e633458ef1c65e7814fa5
      
      --------
      David Nellis
      7A Slider
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8627#208627
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION | 
      
      
      OK guys here it is.  Still not sure of the cost/price.  It has about 40 minutes
      of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the brake work.  Definitely
      over $50, but certainly under $100.  We'll do the best we can..promise.. but
      boy is that a nice piece!
      If we get one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate.
      Don McDonald
      
      If interested make sure I get your mailing address.
      
      
      and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger computer.  I did
      compress it.
      
      --------
      Don A. McDonald
      40636
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Harness and headset brackets | 
      
      Heck no, especially for someone who is almost a neighbor.- How was the wi
      nd this past week.... if it was bad here in the Sac area, it must have been
       crazy there.
      Good to have you aboard....- wow, I actually am starting to feel like a b
      elong in this aviation thing.- I didn't know much about aviation when I s
      tarted my project in Nov of 2006, and still haven't got my private yet.- 
      At least you're following this board pretty early on.- I knew so little I
       didn't start following until about 8 months ago.
      Anyway, I'm almost giving the brackets away..... but they look nice and wor
      k perfectly.- Is the address below good for shipping?- Did you see the 
      scat tube solution?- 
      Don McDonald
      #40636
      
      
      --- On Mon, 10/13/08, John Cumins <jcumins@jcis.net> wrote:
      
      From: John Cumins <jcumins@jcis.net>
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets
      
      
      Don 
      -
      Is it to late to order both of theses items I am just starting but would no
      t mind sitting on them until needed.- 
      -
      
      John G. Cumins
      President
      -
      JC'S Interactive Systems
      2499 B1 Martin Rd
      Fairfield Ca 94533
      707-425-7100
      707-425-7576 Fax
      -
      Your Total Technology Solution Provider
      
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto: owner-rv10-list-server@
      matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
      Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 6:34 PM
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets
      -
      
      
      Thanks, just want to make sure everyone gets em'.
      
      Don
      
      
      --- On Sun, 10/12/08, nukeflyboy <flymoore@charter.net> wrote:
      
      From: nukeflyboy <flymoore@charter.net>
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Harness and headset brackets
      keflyboy"<flymoore@charter.net> -Don,I received both as requested.- I h
      aven't gotten to the installation yet butthey look good. ---------Dave Mo
      oreRV-6 flyingRV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell - - - -Read this
       topic online here: -http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8444
      #208444 - - - - - - - - - -
      - - -http://www.matronics.com/contribution -
      
      
      =0A=0A=0A      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION | 
      
      
        Whew, that much welding and throwing in bending for under $100 out the door!?!
      I need to get me some of the fabricators you have access to for that price!
      
      Michael
      Do not archive
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14
      Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 8:17 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
      
      
      OK guys here it is.  Still not sure of the cost/price.  It has about 40 minutes
      of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the brake work.  Definitely
      over $50, but certainly under $100.  We'll do the best we can..promise.. but
      boy is that a nice piece!
      If we get one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate.
      Don McDonald
      
      If interested make sure I get your mailing address.
      
      
      and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger computer.  I did
      compress it.
      
      --------
      Don A. McDonald
      40636
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629
      
      
      Attachments:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION | 
      
      
      Nice piece Don, 
      
      The price is smokin if anyone knows what this type of work costs...I can't use
      it though, I used the standard Andair mounted to the top of the tunnel with braided
      lines run to one side of the tunnel and the scat run to the other side.
      If it is designed to use the standard Vans CRAPPO valve, (I know some love that
      boiler equipment) or the Andair with the handle extension it looks like the
      way to go...
      
      Rick Sked
      40185
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "partner14" <building_partner@yahoo.com>
      Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 6:16:52 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
      
      
      OK guys here it is.  Still not sure of the cost/price.  It has about 40 minutes
      of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the brake work.  Definitely
      over $50, but certainly under $100.  We'll do the best we can..promise.. but
      boy is that a nice piece!
      If we get one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate.
      Don McDonald
      
      If interested make sure I get your mailing address.
      
      
      and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger computer.  I did
      compress it.
      
      --------
      Don A. McDonald
      40636
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION | 
      
      
      Ummm... yeah...how much do those 12 year old welders get an hour?
      do not archive
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
      Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 6:49:49 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
      
      
        Whew, that much welding and throwing in bending for under $100 out the door!?!
      I need to get me some of the fabricators you have access to for that price!
      
      Michael
      Do not archive
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14
      Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 8:17 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
      
      
      OK guys here it is.  Still not sure of the cost/price.  It has about 40 minutes
      of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the brake work.  Definitely
      over $50, but certainly under $100.  We'll do the best we can..promise.. but
      boy is that a nice piece!
      If we get one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate.
      Don McDonald
      
      If interested make sure I get your mailing address.
      
      
      and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger computer.  I did
      compress it.
      
      --------
      Don A. McDonald
      40636
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629
      
      
      Attachments:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg
      
      
Message 12
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Harness and headset brackets | 
      
      
      Don, 
      
      Word of advice...if it say Corvette, Cadillac, Lincoln, Harley=C2-or AVIA
      TION...double the cost...everyone else does!!! 
      
      Rick Sked 
      
      40185...I'm done buying,,,now finishing 
      
      do not archive 
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Don McDonald" < building_partner @yahoo.com> 
      Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 6:48:21 PM ( GMT-0800 ) America/ Los_Angeles
      
      Subject: RE: RV10-List : Re: Harness and headset brackets 
      
      
      Heck no, especially for someone who is almost a neighbor.=C2- How was the
       wind this past week.... if it was bad here in the Sac area, it must have b
      een crazy there. 
      Good to have you aboard....=C2- wow, I actually am starting to feel like 
      a belong in this aviation thing.=C2- I didn't know much about aviation wh
      en I started my project in Nov of 2006, and still haven't got my private ye
      t.=C2- At least you're following this board pretty early on.=C2- I knew
       so little I didn't start following until about 8 months ago. 
      Anyway, I'm almost giving the brackets away..... but they look nice and wor
      k perfectly.=C2- Is the address below good for shipping?=C2- Did you se
      e the scat tube solution?=C2- 
      Don McDonald 
      #40636 
      
      
      --- On Mon, 10/13/08, John Cumins < jcumins @ jcis .net> wrote: 
      
      
      From: John Cumins < jcumins @ jcis .net> 
      Subject: RE: RV10-List : Re: Harness and headset brackets 
      
      
      Don 
      
      
      Is it to late to order both of theses items I am just starting but would no
      t mind sitting on them until needed.=C2- 
      
      
      John G. Cumins 
      
      President 
      
      
      JC'S Interactive Systems 
      
      
      2499 B1 Martin Rd 
      
      
      Fairfield Ca 94533 
      
      
      707-425-7100 
      
      
      707-425-7576 Fax 
      
      
      Your Total Technology Solution Provider 
      
      
      From: owner-rv10-list-server @ matronics .com [ mailto : owner-rv10-list-se
      rver @ matronics .com ] On Behalf Of Don McDonald 
      Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 6:34 PM 
      Subject: Re: RV10-List : Re: Harness and headset brackets 
      
      
      Thanks, just want to make sure everyone gets em' . 
      
      
      Don 
      
      
      --- On Sun, 10/12/08, nukeflyboy < flymoore @charter.net> wrote: 
      
      
      From: nukeflyboy < flymoore @charter.net> 
      Subject: RV10-List : Re: Harness and headset brackets 
      =C2- Don, I received both as requested.=C2- I haven't gotten to the ins
      tallation yet but they look good. =C2- -------- Dave Moore RV-6 flying RV
      -10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- Read this to
      pic online here: =C2- http ://forums. matronics .com/ viewtopic . php ?p
       8444#208444 =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- 
      =C2- =C2- 
      
      
      =C2- =C2- http :// www . matronics .com/contribution =C2- 
      
      
       3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D 
      = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3
      D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D =
       3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D 
      D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D =
       3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D 
      = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3
      D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D =
      = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3
      D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D =
       3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D 
      = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3
      D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D =
       = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 
      3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D 
      = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3
      D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D =
       3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D 
      = 3D = 3D = 3D 
      
Message 13
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION | 
      
      
      Do you have a drawing showing how the fuel valve fits into the picture?
      Does this require the Andair valve or the standard valve or either?
      If it's the andair valve, I can see that the stem fits through the hole
      and I think with some shielding you can keep the heat off the valve,
      BUT you're probably going to want to wrap the whole plenum in the
      reflective insulation.  If it's for the standard valve I can't see
      exactly how the heat is kept away.  I found a significant amount of
      heat is spread to the seat area through the tunnel when the rear
      heat was turned on...and that it was significantly lessened once I
      wrapped completely my SCAT tubing and the aluminum T's with the
      reflective insulation.  So having an aluminum plenum might make it
      easy to direct airflow, but it may become a very large heat box
      to heat the fuel valve and tunnel unless the builder takes the
      precaution to insulate the plenum.
      
      I know personally that the whole tunnel top will get pretty warm
      with the rear heat on with an uninsulated SCAT tube.  I also know
      that from talking to a couple other builders with lots of hours
      on their planes like I have, that during extended climbs there is
      some sort of issue going on with the fuel system...probably vapor
      in the system, that causes reduced fuel pressure.  Climbs of
      maybe 6000' or more.  I haven't figured out if this is on the
      forward side of the firewall, or the aft, but keeping the entire
      fuel system as cool as possible is an important thing.  Just would
      like to get an idea how this fits around the valve, to know if
      it has any need for added heat shielding.
      
      
      Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
      do not archive
      
      
      partner14 wrote:
      > <building_partner@yahoo.com>
      > 
      > OK guys here it is.  Still not sure of the cost/price.  It has about
      > 40 minutes of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the
      > brake work.  Definitely over $50, but certainly under $100.  We'll do
      > the best we can..promise.. but boy is that a nice piece! If we get
      > one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate. Don McDonald
      > 
      > If interested make sure I get your mailing address.
      > 
      > 
      > and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger
      > computer.  I did compress it.
      > 
      > -------- Don A. McDonald 40636
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Read this topic online here:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Attachments:
      > 
      > http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
Message 14
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Elevator Trim Tab Travel | 
      
      Hi Everyone,
      
      I just finished my elevators and I have a question about the trim tabs.
      
      How much deflection should the trim tab have with a neutral elevator,
      nose up elevator, nose down elevator?
      
      The reason I'm asking is that one of my hinges has a 'catch' in it.  If
      I lift the trim tab up all the way, it travels freely.  If I push it
      down from neutral, it catches "aka: binds" before releasing to operate
      freely.  I'm thinking that the binding action may be well beyond the
      limits we'll set the plane up for at a later step.
      
      1) What are these limits?
      2) Has anyone seen this - if so what did you do?
      3) Does the hinge eventually wear over time and loosen up?   If so, that
      will probably eliminate all areas of concern.
      
      Thanks,
      Phil
      
      
Message 15
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION | 
      
      Thanks Rick.
      
      --- On Mon, 10/13/08, Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote:
      
      From: Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
      
      
      Nice piece Don, 
      
      The price is smokin if anyone knows what this type of work costs...I can't
      use it though, I used the standard Andair mounted to the top of the tunnel with
      braided lines run to one side of the tunnel and the scat run to the other side.
      If it is designed to use the standard Vans CRAPPO valve, (I know some love that
      boiler equipment) or the Andair with the handle extension it looks like the way
      to go...
      
      Rick Sked
      40185
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "partner14" <building_partner@yahoo.com>
      Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 6:16:52 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
      
      <building_partner@yahoo.com>
      
      OK guys here it is.  Still not sure of the cost/price.  It has about 40 minutes
      of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the brake work.  Definitely
      over $50, but certainly under $100.  We'll do the best we can..promise.. but
      boy is that a nice piece!
      If we get one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate.
      Don McDonald
      
      If interested make sure I get your mailing address.
      
      
      and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger computer.  I
      did compress it.
      
      --------
      Don A. McDonald
      40636
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg
      
      
            
      
Message 16
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Alternator wire length - request | 
      
      
      I would not splice theses wires, it just creates a failure point.  Have you considered
      just running the alternator output to the battery side of the starter
      contactor?  You could then run a wire from there to the distribution bus.  I am
      not familiar with Van's schematic so I don't know if this will work for you.
      Nevertheless you can get #8 wire at your Home Depot aircraft parts store.  It
      does not have to be tefzel for this application.
      
      --------
      Dave Moore
      RV-6 flying
      RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8654#208654
      
      
Message 17
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION | 
      
      You are a riot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!- Drop by some time and I'll take you thr
      ough the shop.- They have about 3 times the equipment Van's has.- Just 
      fly into Mather.... the ole AFB.
      
      --- On Mon, 10/13/08, Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote:
      
      From: Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
      Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
      
      
      Ummm... yeah...how much do those 12 year old welders get an hour?
      do not archive
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
      Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 6:49:49 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
      Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
      
      <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
      
        Whew, that much welding and throwing in bending for under $100 out the
      door!?!  I need to get me some of the fabricators you have access to for th
      at
      price!
      
      Michael
      Do not archive
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of partner14
      Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 8:17 PM
      Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
      
      <building_partner@yahoo.com>
      
      OK guys here it is.  Still not sure of the cost/price.  It has about 40 min
      utes
      of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the brake work.  Defini
      tely
      over $50, but certainly under $100.  We'll do the best we can..promise.. bu
      t
      boy is that a nice piece!
      If we get one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate.
      Don McDonald
      
      If interested make sure I get your mailing address.
      
      
      and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger computer.  I
      did compress it.
      
      --------
      Don A. McDonald
      40636
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629
      
      
      Attachments:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg
      
      
      =0A=0A=0A      
      
Message 18
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Alternator wire length - request | 
      
      
      I really only need to know the length from the left side FW penetration now.
      
      I only have 60" in front of the Firewall now at the left corner next to the starter
      relay. I do not want to add a additional firewall penetration. I need to
      run the alt output separate as it is monitored on the AFS3500 system from a shunt
      on the sub panel inside the cockpit
      
      --------
      OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
      Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8661#208661
      
      
Message 19
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: When to install door windows | 
      
      
      I endorse Dave Saylor's comment. Hold off till the locks are in. Also, if possible
      keep the doors open after they are finished and with the gas strut installed.
      I was told that (when compressed)the gas can leak out leaving you to pay for
      the very expensive seal gas strut replacements.
      
      --------
      OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
      Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8669#208669
      
      
 
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