Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:53 AM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
2. 05:47 AM - Re: Re: Harness and headset brackets (Jim)
3. 05:54 AM - Cab o Sil substitute (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 06:50 AM - New England Trip Complete - 10 states in 4 days (Tim Olson)
5. 06:50 AM - Re: Elevator Trim Tab Travel (Bobby J. Hughes)
6. 07:06 AM - Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (johngoodman)
7. 07:18 AM - Re: Elevator Trim Tab Travel (Jesse Saint)
8. 08:26 AM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (David McNeill)
9. 08:33 AM - Re: Cab o Sil substitute (Deems Davis)
10. 09:04 AM - Re: When to install door windows (jbrinkmeyer)
11. 09:51 AM - RV-10 door gas strut longevity (eagerlee)
12. 09:56 AM - Re: Re: When to install door windows (William Curtis)
13. 10:20 AM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
14. 10:54 AM - Re: RV-10 door gas strut longevity (Rick Sked)
15. 11:11 AM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Tim Olson)
16. 11:34 AM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Jesse Saint)
17. 11:39 AM - Fuel Valve (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
18. 01:00 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Vernon Smith)
19. 01:37 PM - Michael Perry (Dave Saylor)
20. 03:34 PM - Re: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles offere (truflite)
21. 03:45 PM - Replacement Interior Door Handles (truflite)
22. 04:02 PM - Re: RV-10 door gas strut longevity (nicholscatoauto@aol.com)
23. 06:41 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Rick Sked)
24. 07:17 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve WAS (Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION) (Robin Marks)
25. 08:43 PM - Re: Andair Fuel Valve WAS (Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION) (Rick Sked)
26. 09:16 PM - Re: RV-10 Composite Class Real Dates Nov 15 & 16 (John Jessen)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
BTW if anyone is interested in what you can do with the Andair valve and
extension, here is a picture. I just set the scat tube in to take a pictur
e but you can see that it clears the valve no problem. I secured the facep
late and valve handle with extension to the tunnel cover. When it's in pla
ce and screwed down the tunnel cover will not let the extension disengage f
rom the valve.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Do you have a drawing showing how the fuel valve fits into the picture?
Does this require the Andair valve or the standard valve or either?
If it's the andair valve, I can see that the stem fits through the hole
and I think with some shielding you can keep the heat off the valve,
BUT you're probably going to want to wrap the whole plenum in the
reflective insulation. If it's for the standard valve I can't see
exactly how the heat is kept away. I found a significant amount of
heat is spread to the seat area through the tunnel when the rear
heat was turned on...and that it was significantly lessened once I
wrapped completely my SCAT tubing and the aluminum T's with the
reflective insulation. So having an aluminum plenum might make it
easy to direct airflow, but it may become a very large heat box
to heat the fuel valve and tunnel unless the builder takes the
precaution to insulate the plenum.
I know personally that the whole tunnel top will get pretty warm
with the rear heat on with an uninsulated SCAT tube. I also know
that from talking to a couple other builders with lots of hours
on their planes like I have, that during extended climbs there is
some sort of issue going on with the fuel system...probably vapor
in the system, that causes reduced fuel pressure. Climbs of
maybe 6000' or more. I haven't figured out if this is on the
forward side of the firewall, or the aft, but keeping the entire
fuel system as cool as possible is an important thing. Just would
like to get an idea how this fits around the valve, to know if
it has any need for added heat shielding.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
partner14 wrote:
> <building_partner@yahoo.com>
>
> OK guys here it is. Still not sure of the cost/price. It has about
> 40 minutes of welding, not counting any time for shearing, and the
> brake work. Definitely over $50, but certainly under $100. We'll do
> the best we can..promise.. but boy is that a nice piece! If we get
> one done, I'll bring it to Copperstate. Don McDonald
>
> If interested make sure I get your mailing address.
>
>
> and..... I'm so sorry if the file is too big.... get a bigger
> computer. I did compress it.
>
> -------- Don A. McDonald 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8629#208629
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/heater_plenumc_797.jpg
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
Message 2
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|
Subject: | Re: Harness and headset brackets |
Lets see, ... Bose, Garmin, Lycoming, Hartzel, Sea Ray, Lexus, Mercedes to
name a few others!
Do Not Archive!
Jim C
>
>
> Don,
>
> Word of advice...if it say
Corvette, Cadillac, Lincoln, Harleyor
>
AVIATION...double the cost...everyone else does!!!
>
>
Rick Sked
>
> 40185...I'm done buying,,,now finishing
>
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: "Don McDonald" < building_partner
@yahoo.com>
> To: rv10-list @ matronics .com
> Sent:
Monday, October 13, 2008 6:48:21 PM ( GMT-0800 ) America/
>
Los_Angeles
> Subject: RE: RV10-List : Re: Harness and headset
brackets
>
>
> Heck no, especially for someone
who is almost a neighbor. How was the
> wind this
past week.... if it was bad here in the Sac area, it must have
>
been crazy there.
> Good to have you aboard.... wow,
I actually am starting to feel like a
> belong in this aviation
thing. I didn't know much about aviation when I
>
started my project in Nov of 2006, and still haven't got my private
yet.
> At least you're following this board pretty
early on. I knew so little I
> didn't start following
until about 8 months ago.
> Anyway, I'm almost giving the brackets
away..... but they look nice and
> work perfectly. Is
the address below good for shipping? Did you see
>
the scat tube solution?
> Don McDonald
>
#40636
>
>
> --- On Mon, 10/13/08, John Cumins
< jcumins @ jcis .net> wrote:
>
>
>
From: John Cumins < jcumins @ jcis .net>
> Subject: RE:
RV10-List : Re: Harness and headset brackets
> To: rv10-list @
matronics .com
> Date: Monday, October 13, 2008, 5:21 PM
>
>
>
>
>
> Don
>
>
>
> Is it to late to order both of theses items I
am just starting but would
> not mind sitting on them until
needed.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> John G. Cumins
>
> President
>
>
>
>
>
> JC'S
Interactive Systems
>
>
> 2499 B1 Martin Rd
>
>
> Fairfield Ca 94533
>
>
> 707-425-7100
>
>
> 707-425-7576 Fax
>
>
>
>
>
> Your Total
Technology Solution Provider
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
From: owner-rv10-list-server @
matronics .com [ mailto :
> owner-rv10-list-server @ matronics
.com ] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
> Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008
6:34 PM
> To: rv10-list @ matronics .com
> Subject: Re:
RV10-List : Re: Harness and headset brackets
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks, just want to
make sure everyone gets em' .
>
>
>
>
Don
>
>
> --- On Sun, 10/12/08, nukeflyboy <
flymoore @charter.net> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
From: nukeflyboy < flymoore @charter.net>
> Subject: RV10-List : Re: Harness and headset brackets
> To:
rv10-list @ matronics .com
> Date: Sunday, October 12, 2008, 5:32
PM
< flymoore @charter.net>
> Don, I received
both as requested. I haven't gotten to the
>
installation yet but they look good. -------- Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online
>
here: http ://forums. matronics .com/ viewtopic . php
?p 8444#208444
>
>
>
>
http :// www . matronics .com/contribution
>
>
> 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
> = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
> 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D D
> 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
= 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
> = 3D = 3D = 3D
= 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
> 3D = 3D
= 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D == 3D = 3D
> = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
3D
> 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
3D = 3D = 3D
> = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
> 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = = 3D
= 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
> 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
= 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
> = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
= 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
> 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
= 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D = 3D
> = 3D = 3D = 3D
= 3D = 3D = 3D
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Cab o Sil substitute |
Can you substitute WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica for cabosil? I don't know
of any big differences but figured I would check with some of our glass gurus
just to be safe. Gary, Deems, Dave?
Michael
Message 4
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Subject: | New England Trip Complete - 10 states in 4 days |
Hi guys and gals,
I'd like to thank the few people that gave me some tips for
the flight out to New England this weekend. Those who gave
me tips for the NYC VFR corridor....I really owe you. That
is one heck of an amazing trip, and with the encouragement
I got, I had a blast. To those who fly out that way in
their RV-10 in the future, DO NOT miss flying up the hudson.
It was incredible.
I feel bad because some of our photos just stink, we had
way too many reflections off the windows...I ordered a
polarizer lens kit before the trip but it didn't show up
in time. But we did get a bunch of photos along the way.
We picked the absolute best possible weekend to do this
trip to the New England states, and had an incredible
flying vacaton. Over 17 hours in 4 days, covering
10 states, 8 of them states the kids had never been in,
and a bunch that none of us had ever seen.
Here's the write-up and photos:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/flights/20081012/index.html
Enjoy...you're going to LOVE flying your RV-10's around
the country like this. And a huge thanks again to
you guys who corresponded with me about the trip and
esp. the Hudson Corridor. I will ABSOLUTELY be going back
out there to do that flight a bunch more times in my life.
clicked over the 400 hour mark early in this trip, so
we're having a blast with this plane!
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 5
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Subject: | Elevator Trim Tab Travel |
I had a similar problem with binding on one side. I had let the rivet
line move a little when drilling and created a small angle across the
span of the hinge half. I replaced the hinge half and corrected the
problem. Verify that the binding is not working the elevator skins. My
did.
Bobby Hughes
40116
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 9:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Trim Tab Travel
Hi Everyone,
I just finished my elevators and I have a question about the trim tabs.
How much deflection should the trim tab have with a neutral elevator,
nose up elevator, nose down elevator?
The reason I'm asking is that one of my hinges has a 'catch' in it. If
I lift the trim tab up all the way, it travels freely. If I push it
down from neutral, it catches "aka: binds" before releasing to operate
freely. I'm thinking that the binding action may be well beyond the
limits we'll set the plane up for at a later step.
1) What are these limits?
2) Has anyone seen this - if so what did you do?
3) Does the hinge eventually wear over time and loosen up? If so, that
will probably eliminate all areas of concern.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
Don,
I definitely want one. I'll send my mailing address in an e-mail. As far as the
other issues brought up I'm a little puzzled. For instance, I noticed a disparaging
remark about Van's supplied fuel valve. Is there something wrong with it?
Does it leak or something? Is it missing a selection option? I suspect that
it's simply "not pretty." In which case, a new handle ought to solve the problem
for most of us.
The fuel heating issue that Tim brought up got my attention. I could see a small
amount of heat transfer at the current location of the scat tube, but the fuel
is only exposed for a second or two at the valve. To me the fuel filter, fuel
pump, and flowscan attached directly to the belly skin would be far more significant.
I'm assuming that the tunnel heat issue has never really gone away.
The advantage of your device is that twice as much air flow is allowed around the
fuel valve - unless somebody has perfected a way to squash the scat tube on
both sides of the valve stem. Because of the increased flow, the folks in the
back would probably want it on a shorter period of time.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8714#208714
Message 7
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|
Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Tab Travel |
I think the plans say this, but make sure you have the hinge pin in
place when riveting the hinge. That will help with these issues.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Oct 14, 2008, at 10:53 AM, Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
> I had a similar problem with binding on one side. I had let the
> rivet line move a little when drilling and created a small angle
> across the span of the hinge half. I replaced the hinge half and
> corrected the problem. Verify that the binding is not working the
> elevator skins. My did.
>
> Bobby Hughes
> 40116
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
> Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 9:35 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Trim Tab Travel
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I just finished my elevators and I have a question about the trim
> tabs.
>
> How much deflection should the trim tab have with a neutral
> elevator, nose up elevator, nose down elevator?
>
> The reason I'm asking is that one of my hinges has a 'catch' in it.
> If I lift the trim tab up all the way, it travels freely. If I push
> it down from neutral, it catches "aka: binds" before releasing to
> operate freely. I'm thinking that the binding action may be well
> beyond the limits we'll set the plane up for at a later step.
>
> 1) What are these limits?
> 2) Has anyone seen this - if so what did you do?
> 3) Does the hinge eventually wear over time and loosen up? If so,
> that will probably eliminate all areas of concern.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
IIRC the vans valve does not lock in a given position; no positive detent
for left or right or off. It could be nudged and inadvertently to off or to
some intermediate position in flight?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 7:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
--> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Don,
I definitely want one. I'll send my mailing address in an e-mail. As far as
the other issues brought up I'm a little puzzled. For instance, I noticed a
disparaging remark about Van's supplied fuel valve. Is there something wrong
with it? Does it leak or something? Is it missing a selection option? I
suspect that it's simply "not pretty." In which case, a new handle ought to
solve the problem for most of us.
The fuel heating issue that Tim brought up got my attention. I could see a
small amount of heat transfer at the current location of the scat tube, but
the fuel is only exposed for a second or two at the valve. To me the fuel
filter, fuel pump, and flowscan attached directly to the belly skin would be
far more significant. I'm assuming that the tunnel heat issue has never
really gone away.
The advantage of your device is that twice as much air flow is allowed
around the fuel valve - unless somebody has perfected a way to squash the
scat tube on both sides of the valve stem. Because of the increased flow,
the folks in the back would probably want it on a shorter period of time.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8714#208714
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: Cab o Sil substitute |
I used the West System colodial silica. Its purpose as I understand it
is to prevent/reduce the epoxies properties to 'bleed', so that the
epoxy doesn't leech out of the joint while curing.
Deems
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
> Can you substitute WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica for cabosil? I don't know
of any big differences but figured I would check with some of our glass gurus
just to be safe. Gary, Deems, Dave?
>
> Michael
>
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: When to install door windows |
huh? Think about what you just said... It implies that the doors should never be
left closed even after the build has been completed.
Regards,
Jay
do not archive
if possible keep the doors open after they are finished and with the gas strut
installed. I was told that (when compressed)the gas can leak out leaving you
to pay for the very expensive seal gas strut replacements.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8729#208729
Message 11
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Subject: | RV-10 door gas strut longevity |
If these struts lose gas when stored compressed, what does one do when
the plane is parked in an unsecured area or when it is flying? I have a
pair of these (same manufacturer-different model) on the hood of my car.
The car is a 1984 and they are original and they still work just fine.
Lets hope the RV-10 door struts are of equal or better quality.
Paul Hahn
#40203 - finishing kit on hold while painting.
original message:
"........... Also, if possible keep the doors open after they are
finished and with the gas strut installed.
I was told that (when compressed)the gas can leak out leaving you
to pay for
the very expensive seal gas strut replacements."
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: When to install door windows |
Yeah, Mike. I think you need to fire this person who keeps telling you these things;-)
-"High Voltage" alternator wires;
-keep strut un-compressed;
Any other advice from this sage? :-)
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> huh? Think about what you just said... It implies that the doors should never
be left closed even after the build has been completed.
>
> Regards,
> Jay
> do not archive
>
> if possible keep the doors open after they are finished and with the gas strut
installed. I was told that (when compressed)the gas can leak out leaving you
to pay for the very expensive seal gas strut replacements.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8729#208729
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
I've also heard that in the past they have leaked over time. I believe some
people were replacing the seals in it proactively with better ones.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 10:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
IIRC the vans valve does not lock in a given position; no positive detent
for left or right or off. It could be nudged and inadvertently to off or to
some intermediate position in flight?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 7:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
--> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Don,
I definitely want one. I'll send my mailing address in an e-mail. As far as
the other issues brought up I'm a little puzzled. For instance, I noticed a
disparaging remark about Van's supplied fuel valve. Is there something wrong
with it? Does it leak or something? Is it missing a selection option? I
suspect that it's simply "not pretty." In which case, a new handle ought to
solve the problem for most of us.
The fuel heating issue that Tim brought up got my attention. I could see a
small amount of heat transfer at the current location of the scat tube, but
the fuel is only exposed for a second or two at the valve. To me the fuel
filter, fuel pump, and flowscan attached directly to the belly skin would be
far more significant. I'm assuming that the tunnel heat issue has never
really gone away.
The advantage of your device is that twice as much air flow is allowed
around the fuel valve - unless somebody has perfected a way to squash the
scat tube on both sides of the valve stem. Because of the increased flow,
the folks in the back would probably want it on a shorter period of time.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8714#208714
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: RV-10 door gas strut longevity |
The struts are basic automotive struts, I already found them at Pepboys, If
I recall they are for Lincoln Bonnets or hood to us Yanks. They should las
t many years but are easily found to replace. About $30 a strut.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 9:50:52 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 door gas strut longevity
If these struts lose gas when stored compressed, what does one do when the
plane is parked in an unsecured area or when it is flying?=C2- I have a p
air of these (same manufacturer-different model) on the hood of my car. The
car is a 1984 and they are original and they still work just fine. Lets ho
pe the RV-10 door struts are of equal or better quality.
Paul Hahn
#40203 - finishing kit on hold while painting.
original message:
"........... Also, if possible keep the doors open after they are finished
and with the gas strut installed.
I was told that (when compressed)the gas can leak out leaving you to
pay for
======
====
=======================
==
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
I don't think I've ever heard of them leaking over time on the
RV-10's, but I know that if you put tons of interior covering
on your doors they may not hold up the door. (this is true)
To save mine from being compressed all the time, I had a
special canopy cover made that allows me to park it with
the doors open and have the plane covered. (tongue in cheek,
beware, this is actually NOT true, for those who haven't
figured that out)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> I've also heard that in the past they have leaked over time. I
> believe some people were replacing the seals in it proactively with
> better ones.
>
> Michael
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
I have seen some of these weaker than others, but I don't think it is
a leak. Van's has been pretty good about replacing them if/when they
fall short of the mark.
All that said, I don't think I've had a problem in a while, so they
may have changed sources.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Oct 14, 2008, at 2:10 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I don't think I've ever heard of them leaking over time on the
> RV-10's, but I know that if you put tons of interior covering
> on your doors they may not hold up the door. (this is true)
>
> To save mine from being compressed all the time, I had a
> special canopy cover made that allows me to park it with
> the doors open and have the plane covered. (tongue in cheek,
> beware, this is actually NOT true, for those who haven't
> figured that out)
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>> I've also heard that in the past they have leaked over time. I
>> believe some people were replacing the seals in it proactively with
>> better ones.
>> Michael
>
>
Message 17
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Umm, I was talking about the Van's fuel valves. :P Guess that's what we get for
not changing subject lines.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
I don't think I've ever heard of them leaking over time on the
RV-10's, but I know that if you put tons of interior covering
on your doors they may not hold up the door. (this is true)
To save mine from being compressed all the time, I had a
special canopy cover made that allows me to park it with
the doors open and have the plane covered. (tongue in cheek,
beware, this is actually NOT true, for those who haven't
figured that out)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> I've also heard that in the past they have leaked over time. I
> believe some people were replacing the seals in it proactively with
> better ones.
>
> Michael
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
Too Cool!
Is the canopy cover available with zip-in screen doors? It would be great f
or those hot days at air shows:)
Vern Smith (#324 finishing)
> Date: Tue=2C 14 Oct 2008 13:10:29 -0500> From: Tim@MyRV10.com> To: rv10-l
ist@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) -
> To save mine from being compressed all the time=2C I had a> special cano
py cover made that allows me to park it with> the doors open and have the p
lane covered. (tongue in cheek=2C> beware=2C this is actually NOT true=2C f
or those who haven't> figured that out)> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flyin
g> do not archive
_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows connects the people=2C information=2C and fun that are part
of your life.
Message 19
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I just heard that Michael Perry from Arizona died in a Maule over the
weekend. He was registered in our upcoming composite class. Any other news
or contact info for his family would be appreciated. Please email me
directly.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Replacement full safety locking INTERIOR door handles offere |
Contact me at davidnellis691@comcast.net
Price is $175.00 plus $10.00 shipping
Pictures available at
http://davidnellis.myphotoalbum.com
Thanks,
Dave Nellis
--------
David Nellis
7A Slider
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Message 21
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Subject: | Replacement Interior Door Handles |
For those that are interested, contact me at
davidnellis691@comcast.net
Pictures available at
davidnellis.myphotoalbum.com
Price is $175.00 plus $10.00 shipping
These handles replace the factory interior handles. They are CNC machined and
are fitted to your lock mechanism. You need to send me your built or kit for
the door lock. There is a picture at the site above that shows the factory handles.
I do not need the rack gear but, I do need the pinion. I do not need
the outer handle.
These handles simply replace the factory handles. The action of the locking mechanism
does NOT change.
Thank you for the interest,
Dave Nellis
--------
David Nellis
7A Slider
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Message 22
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Subject: | Re: RV-10 door gas strut longevity |
I do know the struts on the car hoods will leak if you get paint over spray on
the shafts and then close the hood. Ask me how I know.? During painting the shafts
should be protected from over spray if possible.
Jeff Nichols
#40648
-----Original Message-----
From: eagerlee <eagerlee@comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 10:50 am
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 door gas strut longevity
If these struts lose gas when stored compressed, what does one do when the plane
is parked in an unsecured area or when it is flying?? I have a pair of these
(same manufacturer-different model) on the hood of my car. The car is a 1984
and they are original and they still work just fine. Lets hope the RV-10 door
struts are of equal or better quality.
Paul Hahn
#40203 - finishing kit on hold while painting.
?
original message:
"........... Also, if possible keep the doors open after they are finished and
with the gas strut installed.
I was told that (when compressed)the gas can leak out leaving you to pay
for
the very expensive seal gas strut replacements."
?
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
John,
The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there.
You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the lack
of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either
outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hours. I mean really, look
at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water damage
to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself
what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine
both there would be no question which you would choose. But then again....some
guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, but you need to consider
the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in
the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold! :)
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 7:05:32 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Don,
I definitely want one. I'll send my mailing address in an e-mail. As far as the
other issues brought up I'm a little puzzled. For instance, I noticed a disparaging
remark about Van's supplied fuel valve. Is there something wrong with it?
Does it leak or something? Is it missing a selection option? I suspect that
it's simply "not pretty." In which case, a new handle ought to solve the problem
for most of us.
The fuel heating issue that Tim brought up got my attention. I could see a small
amount of heat transfer at the current location of the scat tube, but the fuel
is only exposed for a second or two at the valve. To me the fuel filter, fuel
pump, and flowscan attached directly to the belly skin would be far more significant.
I'm assuming that the tunnel heat issue has never really gone away.
The advantage of your device is that twice as much air flow is allowed around the
fuel valve - unless somebody has perfected a way to squash the scat tube on
both sides of the valve stem. Because of the increased flow, the folks in the
back would probably want it on a shorter period of time.
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
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Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve WAS (Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - |
SOLUTION)
I vote for the Andair valve. I had a stock Vans valve on my -4 and it leaked, I
swapped it for the Andair and no problems after that. I had a stock Vans valve
on my 6A and it leaked, smelled of gas in the cockpit and moistened my hand
on every fuel change. That got me to stop smoking on long flights. I swapped that
one for an Andair valve and again problem solved. Let me tell you it's a lot
easier to build one into your construction than to retrofit one later.
I dont know where fuel management ranks in flight safety but I bet it's in the
top 3. Why not spring for the best valve available. You will feel great about
your choice every time you swap tanks. Find someplace else to save. I consider
this a mandatory upgrade.
Robin
BTW for those that still dont get my humor I was kidding about smoking.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
John,
The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there.
You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the lack
of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either
outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hours. I mean really, look
at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water damage
to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself
what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine
both there would be no question which you would choose. But then again....some
guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, but you need to consider
the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in
the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold! :)
Rick Sked
40185
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve WAS (Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) |
- SOLUTION)
Every time I hear about smoking and flying I can hear Duke Cunningham saying "as
we took the Mig past on the left, we pulled into the verticle and It's time
to put out the Benson & Hedges" not an exact quote but close IIRC. Lol....then
the Gomer goggles, Gomer scarf....gotta love that interview. Too bad he was involved
with the corruption stuff, but heck I didn't know him, he was just was
aviation legend to me.
Rick Sked
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 7:16:45 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve WAS (Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) -
SOLUTION)
I vote for the Andair valve. I had a stock Vans valve on my -4 and it leaked, I
swapped it for the Andair and no problems after that. I had a stock Vans valve
on my 6A and it leaked, smelled of gas in the cockpit and moistened my hand
on every fuel change. That got me to stop smoking on long flights. I swapped that
one for an Andair valve and again problem solved. Let me tell you it's a lot
easier to build one into your construction than to retrofit one later.
I dont know where fuel management ranks in flight safety but I bet it's in the
top 3. Why not spring for the best valve available. You will feel great about
your choice every time you swap tanks. Find someplace else to save. I consider
this a mandatory upgrade.
Robin
BTW for those that still dont get my humor I was kidding about smoking.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
John,
The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there.
You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the lack
of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either
outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hours. I mean really, look
at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water damage
to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself
what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine
both there would be no question which you would choose. But then again....some
guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, but you need to consider
the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in
the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold! :)
Rick Sked
40185
Message 26
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Subject: | RV-10 Composite Class Real Dates Nov 15 & 16 |
Yikes, almost forgot. I'll give you a call tomorrow and give a cc number.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2008 4:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Composite Class Real Dates Nov 15 & 16
OK, let's make that November 15 and 16, which should really be a Saturday
and Sunday. Just to be complete:
This course will provide an overview of the composite parts and techniques
used on Van's Aircraft RV-10 kits. We will focus on correct materials and
processes, fitting the composite top and doors, cowl, spinner, fairings, and
other composite parts. You will recieve hands-on training to identify and
use all necessary materials. Examples of completed and in-process assemblies
will be available to view. We will be fitting and installing a cabin top.
Weather permitting, we'll be giving RV-10 demo flights to as many interested
parties as possible--indicate when you sign up if you're interested, first
come, first served, no additional charge.
Who:
Harold Bunyi and Dave Saylor. Harold holds a BS in Aeronautical Engineering
and built kitplane parts in the Phillipines for many years. He has worked at
AirCrafters for 6 years and spends most of his day working with composites.
I started working with composite kitplanes in 1998. I am an A&P/IA, and I
have finished my personal RV-10 project, along with many other composite and
aluminum projects. I recieved my BS in Aeronautics from San Jose State.
When:
November 15 & 16, 2008
8AM-4PM Saturday
8AM-3PM Sunday
Where:
AirCrafters LLC
Watsonville Airport (KWVI)
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141
<outbind://40/www.AirCraftersLLC.com> www.AirCraftersLLC.com
Class size is limited to 15 builders
Cost for the course is $350 payable by cash, check or credit card. Please
call or email to register. A 50% deposit is required before November 7.
Balance due before class starts.
Nearest major airport is San Jose International. 45 minute drive to KWVI.
Best Lodging is Watsonville Comfort Inn: 831-728-2300. Ask for the airport
discount. Other lodging is available nearby. Aircraft parking is available
at AirCrafters. Please call if we can help with logistics.
Many thanks for your interest,
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
<http://www.aircraftersllc.com/> www.AirCraftersLLC.com
****************************************************************************
****************************
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