Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:29 AM - Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (johngoodman)
2. 08:37 AM - Re: Cab o Sil substitute (John Ackerman)
3. 11:04 AM - Re: Harness and headset brackets (efdsteve@aol.com)
4. 12:22 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Rick Sked)
5. 12:59 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Patrick Thyssen)
6. 01:25 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Rick Sked)
7. 01:45 PM - Re: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION (Tim Olson)
8. 02:42 PM - Defrost fans (Fred Williams, M.D.)
9. 02:58 PM - Re: Cab o Sil substitute (Andy Turner)
10. 03:07 PM - Re: Defrost fans (Tim Olson)
11. 03:22 PM - Re: Defrost fans (Chris and Susie)
12. 05:06 PM - Michael Perry online guest book (SteinAir, Inc.)
13. 05:43 PM - Re: Harness and headset brackets (Don McDonald)
14. 06:04 PM - Re: Defrost fans (ddddsp1@juno.com)
15. 07:28 PM - Re: Defrost fans (Jesse Saint)
16. 11:42 PM - Re: Defrost fans (AirMike)
17. 11:56 PM - Gretz Heated Pitot tube back in business (AirMike)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
Rick,
I have started doing my homework on it right now. I've gone to our local RV hangar
and took a good look at the Andairs that were there, still in the box and
some installed. I definitely think the Andair is an excellent looking valve and
has a very nice feel to it. I was also told by one of experienced builders
that the Vans valve has been known to stick at one tank position, or the other.
The leak issue is also mentioned. A quick browse through the VAF forums reveals
that the standard brass/nylon valve can wear to create the above situations
but it is not common. Most folks believe the valve is extremely reliable - albeit
ugly.
So now I have a dilemma. IF I switch over, it looks like I would have to re-plumb
my fuel lines. I'm also guessing that it would mount differently than the Van's
valve requiring removal of the old bracket and fabrication of a new one.
It appears the scat tube issue that I was hoping to solve with Don's device is
still there, so would Don's device work? The extension on the Andair looks like
a solution but it's an additional layer of complexity and would cost more to
buy than the replacement cost of Van's valve.
If only Van had found a better way to get the scat tube to the back seats, I would
still be in ignorant bliss......
John
ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
> John,
>
> The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there.
You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the
lack of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either
outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hours. I mean really, look
at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water
damage to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself
what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine
both there would be no question which you would choose. But then again....some
guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, but you need to consider
the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in
the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold!
:)
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
>
> ---
:(
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8890#208890
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cab o Sil substitute |
FWIW I have used them interchangeably, and I'd guess that they are
from the same bin- but that's a guess only.
Added to flox or glass microfiber mixtures, they make it easier to get
a smoother surface and nicer flow when applying, thus less sanding
next day.
Disclaimer: I'm no fiberglass expert by a very long shot.
John Ackerman
On Oct 14, 2008, at 8:33 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I used the West System colodial silica. Its purpose as I understand
> it is to prevent/reduce the epoxies properties to 'bleed', so that
> the epoxy doesn't leech out of the joint while curing.
>
> Deems
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>> >
>>
>> Can you substitute WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica for cabosil?
>> I don't know of any big differences but figured I would check with
>> some of our glass gurus just to be safe. Gary, Deems, Dave?
>>
>> Michael
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Harness and headset brackets |
Received.? Thank you.
Steve Weinstock
40230
-----Original Message-----
From: pascal <pascal@rv10builder.net>
Sent: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 4:18 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets
?
Don;?
Received mine.?
Thanks!?
Pascal?
?
--------------------------------------------------?
From: "partner14" <building_partner@yahoo.com>?
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 1:51 PM?
Subject: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets?
?
>?
> If not too much trouble can all of you that ordered one or both of these > send
me a quick email to let me know if you received them.?
> Thanks, Don McDonald?
>?
> Scat rear heat solution in design. Anyone interested in axle extensions??
>?
> --------?
> Don A. McDonald?
> 40636?
>?
>?
>?
>?
> Read this topic online here:?
>?
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8414#208414?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
>?
> ?
?
?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
John,
For sure you will need to modify your install if you already plumbed for the weathervane.
I only intalled the mount before electing to use the Andair. My install
was pretty simple using the braided stainless lines instead of the hard aluminum.
This allowed me to route the lines to one side of the tunnel and the
scat along the other but it still needed to flatten it a little a little. My valve
stands up in the tunnel withthe assistance of the aluminum line that goes
to the fuel pump. The valve is secured when the figerglass console is installed
and the mounting screws for the valve go through the plate and console and
into the nutplates on the valve. very secure and stable mount using the glass
console. It's about 1/4" thick at the point where the valve mounts.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 8:28:33 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Rick,
I have started doing my homework on it right now. I've gone to our local RV hangar
and took a good look at the Andairs that were there, still in the box and
some installed. I definitely think the Andair is an excellent looking valve and
has a very nice feel to it. I was also told by one of experienced builders
that the Vans valve has been known to stick at one tank position, or the other.
The leak issue is also mentioned. A quick browse through the VAF forums reveals
that the standard brass/nylon valve can wear to create the above situations
but it is not common. Most folks believe the valve is extremely reliable - albeit
ugly.
So now I have a dilemma. IF I switch over, it looks like I would have to re-plumb
my fuel lines. I'm also guessing that it would mount differently than the Van's
valve requiring removal of the old bracket and fabrication of a new one.
It appears the scat tube issue that I was hoping to solve with Don's device is
still there, so would Don's device work? The extension on the Andair looks like
a solution but it's an additional layer of complexity and would cost more to
buy than the replacement cost of Van's valve.
If only Van had found a better way to get the scat tube to the back seats, I would
still be in ignorant bliss......
John
ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
> John,
>
> The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying RV's out there.
You can search Vansairforce list and read about the shortcomings or the
lack of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde reputation. It either
outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hours. I mean really, look
at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which did $20k in water
damage to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice and you decide for yourself
what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had the chance to examine
both there would be no question which you would choose. But then again....some
guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, but you need to consider
the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have 5000 of them in
the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are all sold!
:)
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
>
> ---
:(
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8890#208890
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
Hey Rick here is the solution one of our local RV10 builder has. Don't inst
all a back Heat outlet.
Patrick Thyssen
PS:-It's a-cheap fix
--- On Wed, 10/15/08, Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote:
From: Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
John,
For sure you will need to modify your install if you already plumbed for th
e
weathervane. I only intalled the mount before electing to use the Andair. M
y
install was pretty simple using the braided stainless lines instead of the
hard
aluminum. This allowed me to route the lines to one side of the tunnel and
the
scat along the other but it still needed to flatten it a little a little. M
y
valve stands up in the tunnel withthe assistance of the aluminum line that
goes
to the fuel pump. The valve is secured when the figerglass console is insta
lled
and the mounting screws for the valve go through the plate and console and
into
the nutplates on the valve. very secure and stable mount using the glass
console. It's about 1/4" thick at the point where the valve mounts.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 8:28:33 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
<johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Rick,
I have started doing my homework on it right now. I've gone to our local RV
hangar and took a good look at the Andairs that were there, still in the bo
x and
some installed. I definitely think the Andair is an excellent looking valv
e and
has a very nice feel to it. I was also told by one of experienced builders
that
the Vans valve has been known to stick at one tank position, or the other.
The
leak issue is also mentioned. A quick browse through the VAF forums reveals
that
the standard brass/nylon valve can wear to create the above situations but
it is
not common. Most folks believe the valve is extremely reliable - albeit ugl
y.
So now I have a dilemma. IF I switch over, it looks like I would have to
re-plumb my fuel lines. I'm also guessing that it would mount differently
than the Van's valve requiring removal of the old bracket and fabrication o
f
a new one. It appears the scat tube issue that I was hoping to solve with
Don's device is still there, so would Don's device work? The extension
on the Andair looks like a solution but it's an additional layer of
complexity and would cost more to buy than the replacement cost of Van's
valve.
If only Van had found a better way to get the scat tube to the back seats,
I
would still be in ignorant bliss......
John
ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
> John,
>
> The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying
RV's out there. You can search Vansairforce list and read about the
shortcomings or the lack of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr.
Hyde
reputation. It either outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hou
rs. I
mean really, look at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which
did $20k in water damage to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice
and
you decide for yourself what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had
the
chance to examine both there would be no question which you would choose. B
ut
then again....some guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, bu
t you
need to consider the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have
5000
of them in the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are
all
sold! :)
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
>
> ---
:(
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8890#208890
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
Yeah but it get so chilly here in Las Vegas...I really don't plan much back
seat pass. So I did give that some consideration...Tim on the other hand h
as his girls and it is REALLY cold in his part of the country.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Thyssen" <jump2@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 12:58:39 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angele
s
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
Hey Rick here is the solution one of our local RV10 builder has. Don't inst
all a back Heat outlet.
Patrick Thyssen
PS:=C2-It's a=C2-cheap fix
--- On Wed, 10/15/08, Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote:
From: Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
John,
For sure you will need to modify your install if you already plumbed for th
e
weathervane. I only intalled the mount before electing to use the Andair. M
y
install was pretty simple using the braided stainless lines instead of the
hard
aluminum. This allowed me to route the lines to one side of the tunnel and
the
scat along the other but it still needed to flatten it a little a little. M
y
valve stands up in the tunnel withthe assistance of the aluminum line that
goes
to the fuel pump. The valve is secured when the figerglass console is insta
lled
and the mounting screws for the valve go through the plate and console and
into
the nutplates on the valve. very secure and stable mount using the glass
console. It's about 1/4" thick at the point where the valve mounts.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 8:28:33 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
<johngoodman@earthlink.net>
Rick,
I have started doing my homework on it right now. I've gone to our local RV
hangar and took a good look at the Andairs that were there, still in the bo
x and
some installed. I definitely think the Andair is an excellent looking valv
e and
has a very nice feel to it. I was also told by one of experienced builders
that
the Vans valve has been known to stick at one tank position, or the other.
The
leak issue is also mentioned. A quick browse through the VAF forums reveals
that
the standard brass/nylon valve can wear to create the above situations but
it is
not common. Most folks believe the valve is extremely reliable - albeit ugl
y.
So now I have a dilemma. IF I switch over, it looks like I would have to
re-plumb my fuel lines. I'm also guessing that it would mount differently
than the Van's valve requiring removal of the old bracket and fabrication o
f
a new one. It appears the scat tube issue that I was hoping to solve with
Don's device is still there, so would Don's device work? The extension
on the Andair looks like a solution but it's an additional layer of
complexity and would cost more to buy than the replacement cost of Van's
valve.
If only Van had found a better way to get the scat tube to the back seats,
I
would still be in ignorant bliss......
John
ricksked(at)embarqmail.co wrote:
> John,
>
> The disparaging remark came from me...and about half of the flying
RV's out there. You can search Vansairforce list and read about the
shortcomings or the lack of them. Seems the valve has a Dr. Jekyll and Mr.
Hyde
reputation. It either outlasts the the airframe or it leaks in 30 to 40 hou
rs. I
mean really, look at that valve. I wouldn't trust it on my icemaker, which
did $20k in water damage to my house at one time. The Andair is my choice
and
you decide for yourself what you want controlling the fuel. If you have had
the
chance to examine both there would be no question which you would choose. B
ut
then again....some guys love the (cough, gag) Vans valve, including Van, bu
t you
need to consider the Dutch factor there, you know, if it leaks I still have
5000
of them in the warehouse and we recommend them all the way up till they are
all
sold! :)
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
>
> ---
:(
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION |
:) Yeah, we use it all the time. On the way to Philly we had
it on this last week. I actually like using the rear heat
more often than the front. It allows them to be warm,
and you to get warmth without that direct leg-heat that
tends to put me to sleep. It also keeps the heat from
blowing up under the panel. I remember back to my flyoff
time, flying along at 10F, but I could see that the internal
temp of my GRT EIS was like 110F, and that box doesn't get
that warm on it's own. The head from the inlet was rising
up to the panel.
On a continued topic, I would really recommend that everyone
put in defroster fans on their RV-10's, regardless of their
climate. Even if you don't need defrost, it will help keep
the hot air from collecting under your forward fuselage
behind the panel.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rick Sked wrote:
> Yeah but it get so chilly here in Las Vegas...I really don't plan much
> back seat pass. So I did give that some consideration...Tim on the other
> hand has his girls and it is REALLY cold in his part of the country.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Patrick Thyssen" <jump2@sbcglobal.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 12:58:39 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rear Heat Duct (Scat Tube) - SOLUTION
>
> Hey Rick here is the solution one of our local RV10 builder has. Don't
> install a back Heat outlet.
> Patrick Thyssen
> PS: It's a cheap fix
Message 8
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On the subject of the defrost fans; Don't put in chrome fan gaurds,
that is unless you don't want to install the optional gun sight.
Dr Fred
Don't ask me how I know. :-)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cab o Sil substitute |
Another alternative - this cellulose based structural filler is new on the market,
promises to be easier on tools and our lungs.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/350113?&cid=chanintel&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=350113
When we find our glass expert I would like to learn about any tradeoffs associated
with this product.
--------
Andy Turner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8954#208954
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
Right....EVERYTHING on your glareshield you'll want black or dark.
I even painted the white stickers on my fans, and any screws were
black, and everything else. That whole glareshield reflects
awfully bad.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>
> On the subject of the defrost fans; Don't put in chrome fan gaurds,
> that is unless you don't want to install the optional gun sight.
>
> Dr Fred
>
> Don't ask me how I know. :-)
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
I put a dash mat on . Same stuff Abby uses as carpet. No reflections and
cheap. Been watching the scat tube debate and we squeezed the tube put some
sealant around it and it dosnt move. Did think about defrost fans however
have not needed any yet but will see.
Also we are VFR only
regards Chris
VH-ICY 50 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Defrost fans
>
> Right....EVERYTHING on your glareshield you'll want black or dark.
> I even painted the white stickers on my fans, and any screws were
> black, and everything else. That whole glareshield reflects
> awfully bad.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>> <drfred@suddenlinkmail.com>
>>
>> On the subject of the defrost fans; Don't put in chrome fan gaurds,
>> that is unless you don't want to install the optional gun sight.
>>
>> Dr Fred
>>
>> Don't ask me how I know. :-)
>>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Michael Perry online guest book |
Hi all,
Most of you probably know by now that Michael Perry (along with Jim Crosby)
died in a crash last weekend at LOE. He was a fellow RV-10 builder and all
around nice guy. Those of you who wish may sign a guest book his family is
having put together online and they will print out a hard copy for his
children and family at the upcoming service. His mother requested that I
pass along this link to anyone wishing to contribute.
http://www.legacy.com/AZCENTRAL/GB/GuestbookView.aspx?PersonId=118789689
I accidentally posted twice, so be patient and realize your comments won't
show up right away.
Best Regards,
Stein
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Harness and headset brackets |
Thanks.... just wanted to make sure you got it.-- Don
--- On Wed, 10/15/08, efdsteve@aol.com <efdsteve@aol.com> wrote:
From: efdsteve@aol.com <efdsteve@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets
Received.- Thank you.
Steve Weinstock
40230
-----Original Message-----
From: pascal <pascal@rv10builder.net>
Sent: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 4:18 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets
-
Don;-
Received mine.-
Thanks!-
Pascal-
-
---------------------------------------------------
From: "partner14" <building_partner@yahoo.com>-
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 1:51 PM-
Subject: RV10-List: Harness and headset brackets-
-
-
>-
> If not too much trouble can all of you that ordered one or both of these
> send me a quick email to let me know if you received them.-
> Thanks, Don McDonald-
>-
> Scat rear heat solution in design. Anyone interested in axle extensions?
-
>-
> ---------
> Don A. McDonald-
> 40636-
>-
>-
>-
>-
> Read this topic online here:-
>-
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8414#208414-
>-
>-
>-
>-
>-
>-
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> -
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McCain or Obama? Stay updated on coverage of the Presidential race while yo
u browse - Download Now!
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
Defrost fans needed 5 times in the last 18 months of flying. MOF we use
d them Monday AM leaving Goodland, KS ........window was 90% fog taxing
to runway. When we got to the runway window was CLEAR. I put in the ve
rtical squirrel cage PC fans versus the circular ones.........smaller ho
le to cut in the glareshield and less glare issue. IF you ever plan to
fly in humid or cool conditions I would definitely put in a defrost syst
em.
Dean 805HL
____________________________________________________________
Click for FHA loan, $0 lender fees, low rates & approvals nationwide
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iieiReeglcX18mfflVjYZUR
P1T7QSqTDFkHkg9IFYah9Owbko/
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
You can also just drill a little grid of small holes and no cage is
needed. Just screw the fan on underneath the glareshield (screws
going in from on top).
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 16, 2008, at 1:02 AM, "ddddsp1@juno.com" <ddddsp1@juno.com>
wrote:
> Defrost fans needed 5 times in the last 18 months of flying. MOF we
> used them Monday AM leaving Goodland, KS ........window was 90% fog
> taxing to runway. When we got to the runway window was CLEAR. I
> put in the vertical squirrel cage PC fans versus the circular
> ones.........smaller hole to cut in the glareshield and less glare
> issue. IF you ever plan to fly in humid or cool conditions I would
> definitely put in a defrost system.
>
> Dean 805HL
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click for FHA loan, $0 lender fees, low rates & approvals nationwide
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
I got a really cool (no pun) fan at Fry's in Roseville CA. Less than $12 and it
has a very small 3 speed switch on it. I put it on the dash about where I thought
that I would need the defrost effect most (center left). They also sell a
cheap black plastic cover that projects about 1/8" above the dash.
The fan cover is about $2.99. At these prices you can afford two fans. when they
run you can barely hear them on low, but on high they really move the air.
For glare - should I just paint the dash flat black to get started and take a template
of the dash for later finish work from Abbey????? or should I do it all
before the windshield goes in????? suggestions
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8988#208988
Message 17
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| Subject: | Gretz Heated Pitot tube back in business |
It looks like Andrew Angus of Angus aviation in Australia has finally gotten the
GA1000 heated pitot back in production after a 6 month hiatus.
The contact is Email: andrew@angusaviation.com
www.angusaviation.com
The link is also on the Gretzaero.com site
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 8989#208989
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