Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:48 AM - Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" (tomhanaway)
2. 06:37 AM - Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? (Lew Gallagher)
3. 07:33 AM - Re: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" (Jesse Saint)
4. 07:49 AM - Re: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate (Fred Williams, M.D.)
5. 08:02 AM - Re: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" (Tim Olson)
6. 11:27 AM - Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest (woxofswa)
7. 12:08 PM - Re: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest (David McNeill)
8. 01:18 PM - Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest (woxofswa)
9. 02:36 PM - firewall and electrical (John Gonzalez)
10. 03:02 PM - Re: firewall and electrical (Tim Olson)
11. 03:40 PM - Re: firewall and electrical (MauleDriver)
12. 04:51 PM - Re: firewall and electrical (William Curtis)
13. 07:42 PM - Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? (AirMike)
14. 08:06 PM - Re: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? (Tim Olson)
15. 08:51 PM - Re: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? (David McNeill)
16. 09:39 PM - Re: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" (Chris Johnston)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" |
CJ,
Thanks for the site info. Actually, I'm using an extended Andair valve stem and
don't have a clearance problem. I'm trying to keep the total hose volume down
to lessen the heat effect.
One guy has contacted me with a reducer he can build. I'm going to try two of
them. One at the firewall to reduce hose and a second at the rear passenger valve
to bring fitting back to 2".
I've attached some pictures but will leave it up to him to post his name and #
unless he tells me it's ok to do so.
Thanks again,
Tom Hanaway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210074#210074
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_3_266.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_2_199.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_1_916.jpg
Message 2
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| Subject: | Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? |
OK, I've spent way too much time searching for this answer. What do you think
of glassing over the heads of the seatbelt countersunk screws in the canopy?
Are others making this permanent? Will it crack over time? Just seal the screw
and paint the screw head?
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Prop is on, cowl almost finished, paint prep!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210093#210093
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" |
Am I missing something here? The valve on the firewall is what
controls how much air there is going through the scat tube. Putting
in a smaller tube can also affect that, but that just limits the
amount of air going into the cabin at a given valve setting, but
closing the valve can also have the same affect.
Tim (or anybody else), have you ever had either of your heat valves
all the way open? N256H has flown well below freezing a lot and has
never much more than cracked open the heater valves.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Oct 24, 2008, at 7:47 AM, tomhanaway wrote:
>
> CJ,
> Thanks for the site info. Actually, I'm using an extended Andair
> valve stem and don't have a clearance problem. I'm trying to keep
> the total hose volume down to lessen the heat effect.
>
> One guy has contacted me with a reducer he can build. I'm going to
> try two of them. One at the firewall to reduce hose and a second at
> the rear passenger valve to bring fitting back to 2".
>
> I've attached some pictures but will leave it up to him to post his
> name and # unless he tells me it's ok to do so.
>
> Thanks again,
> Tom Hanaway
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210074#210074
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_3_266.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_2_199.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_1_916.jpg
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate |
John ;
Sounds like a good idea. AN173 bolt. Let us know how tight it is after
climbing in and out of the airplane the first couple months. My concern
is that there just isn't enough mass on the outer tube to keep it from
moving with the 200 + "foot lbs" that are placed on the step each time.
If I had the flange out of the plane and not riveted in, I'd consider
welding a 3/8 inch tab to get more beef for the the close tolerance
bolt. Might even consider a sleeve over the tube and then welding it
to the mount before drilling. Just a thought.
Dr Fred.
Should get that last 1 1/2 hrs done today and get her signed off.
Let's go somewhere!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" |
I don't know that I've ever had my heat valve open all the way
other than maybe on the very coldest of flights or pre-takeoff
before the engine is warmed up. The flapper valve does the
job, just like you said. One thing that I do believe is that
it's nice to use the rear heat more than the front. It keeps
my feet from baking, gives a more even cabin heat, and heats
up those colder rear-seat passengers. So I'd rather have the
option to have rear heat blasting than front. Up front, what
I'd like, is a cold-air mix option, so you can get some cool
air in that same vent. But, I haven't found that to be a big
deal.
We've been well below freezing too....heck, in another couple
weeks we'll be in snow again. Lots of flights in the winter
end up significantly below zero at altitude.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Am I missing something here? The valve on the firewall is what controls
> how much air there is going through the scat tube. Putting in a smaller
> tube can also affect that, but that just limits the amount of air going
> into the cabin at a given valve setting, but closing the valve can also
> have the same affect.
>
> Tim (or anybody else), have you ever had either of your heat valves all
> the way open? N256H has flown well below freezing a lot and has never
> much more than cracked open the heater valves.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Oct 24, 2008, at 7:47 AM, tomhanaway wrote:
>
>>
>> CJ,
>> Thanks for the site info. Actually, I'm using an extended Andair
>> valve stem and don't have a clearance problem. I'm trying to keep the
>> total hose volume down to lessen the heat effect.
>>
>> One guy has contacted me with a reducer he can build. I'm going to
>> try two of them. One at the firewall to reduce hose and a second at
>> the rear passenger valve to bring fitting back to 2".
>>
>> I've attached some pictures but will leave it up to him to post his
>> name and # unless he tells me it's ok to do so.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Tom Hanaway
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210074#210074
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_3_266.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_2_199.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_1_916.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest |
All set up right behind the display tents. Lunch tomorrow (sat) noonish. Lots
of shade and chairs for anyone who wants a place to relax.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210132#210132
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest |
What does your rig look like? I walked that line this morning but how will I
distinguish yours?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 11:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest
All set up right behind the display tents. Lunch tomorrow (sat) noonish.
Lots of shade and chairs for anyone who wants a place to relax.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210132#210132
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest |
I've got a "RV10 NEST" banner hanging from a checkerboard awning.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210148#210148
Message 9
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| Subject: | firewall and electrical |
I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up hooking up my panel
to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am looking in the plans for something
which shows me how my four monster cables from my two batteries will join
or go through the firewall. Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly
to the engine starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the firewall
to make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive power
back to my stein positive busses?
Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram from their
job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site a terminal plate
that can handle that size connectors either positive(insulated from the fuselage)
or negative(grounded)
Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall forward kit and
plans???
Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number in the plans?
Thanks
JOhn G.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: firewall and electrical |
You can get a good idea in the electrical kit plans. Those wires
will terminate on things like contactors...not on fuse blocks
on the panel in general.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
> <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
>
>
> I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up
> hooking up my panel to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am
> looking in the plans for something which shows me how my four monster
> cables from my two batteries will join or go through the firewall.
> Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly to the engine
> starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the firewall to
> make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive
> power back to my stein positive busses?
>
> Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram
> from their job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site
> a terminal plate that can handle that size connectors either
> positive(insulated from the fuselage) or negative(grounded)
>
> Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall
> forward kit and plans???
>
> Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number
> in the plans?
>
> Thanks
>
> JOhn G.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: firewall and electrical |
John, I certainly can't advise you here but I'll tell you a little of
what I've done...
I used the Van's wiring kit plans as a reference for some of the fat
wire routing (thanks Tim).
I have a Z14 with 2 batteries and 2 alts. I ran a 2 AWG to the starter
contactor on the firewall. The Van's wiring kit plan has a firewall
hole plotted and the Van's starter contactor was already to mount on the
QB firewall in just the right spot. My plan is run 8 AWG from the main
Alt to the starter contactor, and then from there back to the panel
where it will terminate at a fuse block. I have a current limiter to
protect that circuit.
I ran another 8 AWG from the other battery forward. I'm not sure
whether it will terminate at a fuse block or whether I should take it
forward thru the firewall to join the secondary Alt's 8AWG line. Then
back to the fuse block (advice here very welcome). This secondary alt
line will also be protected with a current limiter and that may be the
best place to terminate the 2nd battery's line.
Both batteries are grounded at the battery box. And an 8 AWG ground
wire is run to the firewall where it terminates at a B&C forest of tabs
with tabs on both sides of the firewall.
And that's my basic power distribution scheme. Some of it is 'done' and
most still in process.
I'm doing my own panel so I get to figure out all of the power
connections. My plan after drinking deeply of Bob's stuff is to fuse
most of it with a very limited number of pull-able breakers. The forest
of tabs will be the single common ground source for everything in the panel.
Hope some of that helps.
Bill "making holes in Stein's panel" Watson
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>
> I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up hooking up my
panel to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am looking in the plans for something
which shows me how my four monster cables from my two batteries will
join or go through the firewall. Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly
to the engine starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the
firewall to make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive
power back to my stein positive busses?
>
> Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram from their
job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site a terminal plate
that can handle that size connectors either positive(insulated from the fuselage)
or negative(grounded)
>
> Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall forward kit
and plans???
>
> Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number in the plans?
>
> Thanks
>
> JOhn G.
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | firewall and electrical |
>four monster cables ???????????
Coincidentally, I just added some electrical pictures.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/90Electrical/indexEL1.html
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up hooking up my
panel to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am looking in the plans for something
which shows me how my four monster cables from my two batteries will
join or go through the firewall. Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly
to the engine starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the
firewall to make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive
power back to my stein positive busses?
>
> Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram from their
job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site a terminal plate
that can handle that size connectors either positive(insulated from the fuselage)
or negative(grounded)
>
> Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall forward kit
and plans???
>
> Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number in the plans?
>
> Thanks
>
> JOhn G.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? |
Don't give it a second thought. Just glass it, epoxy, or cover it up. Just keep
in mind that you will need to put your headliner in and it might be easier to
perforate it when you install the headliner and just punch the two bolts thru.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210190#210190
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? |
I don't know, but I found usefulness in removing my seat belts
about 1.5 years after I started flying, to do some additional
bracket making for some lights. I'd hate to think of what
those screws would do if glassed in and you ever had to try to
remove them. They don't look that bad on the outside, do they?
I never thought so.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
AirMike wrote:
>
> Don't give it a second thought. Just glass it, epoxy, or cover it up. Just keep
in mind that you will need to put your headliner in and it might be easier
to perforate it when you install the headliner and just punch the two bolts thru.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210190#210190
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? |
Just be prepared to repair the canopy surface should you ever decide to
change/repair your belt system.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy?
I don't know, but I found usefulness in removing my seat belts about 1.5
years after I started flying, to do some additional bracket making for some
lights. I'd hate to think of what those screws would do if glassed in and
you ever had to try to remove them. They don't look that bad on the
outside, do they?
I never thought so.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
AirMike wrote:
>
> Don't give it a second thought. Just glass it, epoxy, or cover it up. Just
keep in mind that you will need to put your headliner in and it might be
easier to perforate it when you install the headliner and just punch the two
bolts thru.
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210190#210190
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" |
I'm not trying to control the amount of heat, just wanted everything
to fit better in the tunnel.
cj
On Oct 24, 2008, at 7:29 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Am I missing something here? The valve on the firewall is what
> controls how much air there is going through the scat tube.
> Putting in a smaller tube can also affect that, but that just
> limits the amount of air going into the cabin at a given valve
> setting, but closing the valve can also have the same affect.
>
> Tim (or anybody else), have you ever had either of your heat valves
> all the way open? N256H has flown well below freezing a lot and
> has never much more than cracked open the heater valves.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Oct 24, 2008, at 7:47 AM, tomhanaway wrote:
>
>> <tomhanaway@comcast.net>
>>
>> CJ,
>> Thanks for the site info. Actually, I'm using an extended Andair
>> valve stem and don't have a clearance problem. I'm trying to keep
>> the total hose volume down to lessen the heat effect.
>>
>> One guy has contacted me with a reducer he can build. I'm going
>> to try two of them. One at the firewall to reduce hose and a
>> second at the rear passenger valve to bring fitting back to 2".
>>
>> I've attached some pictures but will leave it up to him to post
>> his name and # unless he tells me it's ok to do so.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Tom Hanaway
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210074#210074
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_3_266.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_2_199.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_1_916.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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