---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 10/24/08: 16 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:48 AM - Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" (tomhanaway) 2. 06:37 AM - Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? (Lew Gallagher) 3. 07:33 AM - Re: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" (Jesse Saint) 4. 07:49 AM - Re: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate (Fred Williams, M.D.) 5. 08:02 AM - Re: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" (Tim Olson) 6. 11:27 AM - Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest (woxofswa) 7. 12:08 PM - Re: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest (David McNeill) 8. 01:18 PM - Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest (woxofswa) 9. 02:36 PM - firewall and electrical (John Gonzalez) 10. 03:02 PM - Re: firewall and electrical (Tim Olson) 11. 03:40 PM - Re: firewall and electrical (MauleDriver) 12. 04:51 PM - Re: firewall and electrical (William Curtis) 13. 07:42 PM - Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? (AirMike) 14. 08:06 PM - Re: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? (Tim Olson) 15. 08:51 PM - Re: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? (David McNeill) 16. 09:39 PM - Re: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" (Chris Johnston) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:48:48 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" From: "tomhanaway" CJ, Thanks for the site info. Actually, I'm using an extended Andair valve stem and don't have a clearance problem. I'm trying to keep the total hose volume down to lessen the heat effect. One guy has contacted me with a reducer he can build. I'm going to try two of them. One at the firewall to reduce hose and a second at the rear passenger valve to bring fitting back to 2". I've attached some pictures but will leave it up to him to post his name and # unless he tells me it's ok to do so. Thanks again, Tom Hanaway Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210074#210074 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_3_266.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_2_199.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_1_916.jpg ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:37:52 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? From: "Lew Gallagher" OK, I've spent way too much time searching for this answer. What do you think of glassing over the heads of the seatbelt countersunk screws in the canopy? Are others making this permanent? Will it crack over time? Just seal the screw and paint the screw head? Later, - Lew -------- non-pilot crazy about building NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549 Prop is on, cowl almost finished, paint prep! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210093#210093 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:33:14 AM PST US From: Jesse Saint Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" Am I missing something here? The valve on the firewall is what controls how much air there is going through the scat tube. Putting in a smaller tube can also affect that, but that just limits the amount of air going into the cabin at a given valve setting, but closing the valve can also have the same affect. Tim (or anybody else), have you ever had either of your heat valves all the way open? N256H has flown well below freezing a lot and has never much more than cracked open the heater valves. do not archive Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Oct 24, 2008, at 7:47 AM, tomhanaway wrote: > > CJ, > Thanks for the site info. Actually, I'm using an extended Andair > valve stem and don't have a clearance problem. I'm trying to keep > the total hose volume down to lessen the heat effect. > > One guy has contacted me with a reducer he can build. I'm going to > try two of them. One at the firewall to reduce hose and a second at > the rear passenger valve to bring fitting back to 2". > > I've attached some pictures but will leave it up to him to post his > name and # unless he tells me it's ok to do so. > > Thanks again, > Tom Hanaway > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210074#210074 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_3_266.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_2_199.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_1_916.jpg > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:49:30 AM PST US From: "Fred Williams, M.D." Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-Steel Bits - paint or plate John ; Sounds like a good idea. AN173 bolt. Let us know how tight it is after climbing in and out of the airplane the first couple months. My concern is that there just isn't enough mass on the outer tube to keep it from moving with the 200 + "foot lbs" that are placed on the step each time. If I had the flange out of the plane and not riveted in, I'd consider welding a 3/8 inch tab to get more beef for the the close tolerance bolt. Might even consider a sleeve over the tube and then welding it to the mount before drilling. Just a thought. Dr Fred. Should get that last 1 1/2 hrs done today and get her signed off. Let's go somewhere! ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:02:10 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" I don't know that I've ever had my heat valve open all the way other than maybe on the very coldest of flights or pre-takeoff before the engine is warmed up. The flapper valve does the job, just like you said. One thing that I do believe is that it's nice to use the rear heat more than the front. It keeps my feet from baking, gives a more even cabin heat, and heats up those colder rear-seat passengers. So I'd rather have the option to have rear heat blasting than front. Up front, what I'd like, is a cold-air mix option, so you can get some cool air in that same vent. But, I haven't found that to be a big deal. We've been well below freezing too....heck, in another couple weeks we'll be in snow again. Lots of flights in the winter end up significantly below zero at altitude. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive Jesse Saint wrote: > > Am I missing something here? The valve on the firewall is what controls > how much air there is going through the scat tube. Putting in a smaller > tube can also affect that, but that just limits the amount of air going > into the cabin at a given valve setting, but closing the valve can also > have the same affect. > > Tim (or anybody else), have you ever had either of your heat valves all > the way open? N256H has flown well below freezing a lot and has never > much more than cracked open the heater valves. > > do not archive > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse@saintaviation.com > Cell: 352-427-0285 > Fax: 815-377-3694 > > On Oct 24, 2008, at 7:47 AM, tomhanaway wrote: > >> >> CJ, >> Thanks for the site info. Actually, I'm using an extended Andair >> valve stem and don't have a clearance problem. I'm trying to keep the >> total hose volume down to lessen the heat effect. >> >> One guy has contacted me with a reducer he can build. I'm going to >> try two of them. One at the firewall to reduce hose and a second at >> the rear passenger valve to bring fitting back to 2". >> >> I've attached some pictures but will leave it up to him to post his >> name and # unless he tells me it's ok to do so. >> >> Thanks again, >> Tom Hanaway >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210074#210074 >> >> >> >> >> Attachments: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_3_266.jpg >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_2_199.jpg >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_1_916.jpg >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:27:35 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest From: "woxofswa" All set up right behind the display tents. Lunch tomorrow (sat) noonish. Lots of shade and chairs for anyone who wants a place to relax. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210132#210132 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 12:08:32 PM PST US From: "David McNeill" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest What does your rig look like? I walked that line this morning but how will I distinguish yours? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 11:26 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest All set up right behind the display tents. Lunch tomorrow (sat) noonish. Lots of shade and chairs for anyone who wants a place to relax. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210132#210132 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 01:18:18 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Copperstate RV-10 Nest From: "woxofswa" I've got a "RV10 NEST" banner hanging from a checkerboard awning. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210148#210148 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:36:28 PM PST US From: John Gonzalez Subject: RV10-List: firewall and electrical I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up hooking up my panel to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am looking in the plans for something which shows me how my four monster cables from my two batteries will join or go through the firewall. Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly to the engine starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the firewall to make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive power back to my stein positive busses? Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram from their job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site a terminal plate that can handle that size connectors either positive(insulated from the fuselage) or negative(grounded) Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall forward kit and plans??? Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number in the plans? Thanks JOhn G. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 03:02:46 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall and electrical You can get a good idea in the electrical kit plans. Those wires will terminate on things like contactors...not on fuse blocks on the panel in general. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive John Gonzalez wrote: > > > > I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up > hooking up my panel to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am > looking in the plans for something which shows me how my four monster > cables from my two batteries will join or go through the firewall. > Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly to the engine > starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the firewall to > make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive > power back to my stein positive busses? > > Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram > from their job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site > a terminal plate that can handle that size connectors either > positive(insulated from the fuselage) or negative(grounded) > > Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall > forward kit and plans??? > > Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number > in the plans? > > Thanks > > JOhn G. ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 03:40:44 PM PST US From: MauleDriver Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall and electrical John, I certainly can't advise you here but I'll tell you a little of what I've done... I used the Van's wiring kit plans as a reference for some of the fat wire routing (thanks Tim). I have a Z14 with 2 batteries and 2 alts. I ran a 2 AWG to the starter contactor on the firewall. The Van's wiring kit plan has a firewall hole plotted and the Van's starter contactor was already to mount on the QB firewall in just the right spot. My plan is run 8 AWG from the main Alt to the starter contactor, and then from there back to the panel where it will terminate at a fuse block. I have a current limiter to protect that circuit. I ran another 8 AWG from the other battery forward. I'm not sure whether it will terminate at a fuse block or whether I should take it forward thru the firewall to join the secondary Alt's 8AWG line. Then back to the fuse block (advice here very welcome). This secondary alt line will also be protected with a current limiter and that may be the best place to terminate the 2nd battery's line. Both batteries are grounded at the battery box. And an 8 AWG ground wire is run to the firewall where it terminates at a B&C forest of tabs with tabs on both sides of the firewall. And that's my basic power distribution scheme. Some of it is 'done' and most still in process. I'm doing my own panel so I get to figure out all of the power connections. My plan after drinking deeply of Bob's stuff is to fuse most of it with a very limited number of pull-able breakers. The forest of tabs will be the single common ground source for everything in the panel. Hope some of that helps. Bill "making holes in Stein's panel" Watson John Gonzalez wrote: > > > I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up hooking up my panel to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am looking in the plans for something which shows me how my four monster cables from my two batteries will join or go through the firewall. Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly to the engine starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the firewall to make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive power back to my stein positive busses? > > Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram from their job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site a terminal plate that can handle that size connectors either positive(insulated from the fuselage) or negative(grounded) > > Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall forward kit and plans??? > > Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number in the plans? > > Thanks > > JOhn G. > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 04:51:02 PM PST US Subject: re: RV10-List: firewall and electrical From: "William Curtis" >four monster cables ??????????? Coincidentally, I just added some electrical pictures. http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/90Electrical/indexEL1.html William http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/ -------- Original Message -------- > > I have hesitated in asking this question, but I am finishing up hooking up my panel to all my wires inside the fuselage and I am looking in the plans for something which shows me how my four monster cables from my two batteries will join or go through the firewall. Will the positive cables not be cut and go directly to the engine starter, whereas the negative cable will terminate on the firewall to make the ground. If that were the case how do I get that positive power back to my stein positive busses? > > Basically I am confused and I still don't have Stein's wiring diagram from their job on my panel. I also don't seem to find on any web site a terminal plate that can handle that size connectors either positive(insulated from the fuselage) or negative(grounded) > > Where do I need to look to get educated? Is this in the firewall forward kit and plans??? > > Probably the dumbest questions I have asked, just need a page number in the plans? > > Thanks > > JOhn G. ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:42:49 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? From: "AirMike" Don't give it a second thought. Just glass it, epoxy, or cover it up. Just keep in mind that you will need to put your headliner in and it might be easier to perforate it when you install the headliner and just punch the two bolts thru. -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210190#210190 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:06:12 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? I don't know, but I found usefulness in removing my seat belts about 1.5 years after I started flying, to do some additional bracket making for some lights. I'd hate to think of what those screws would do if glassed in and you ever had to try to remove them. They don't look that bad on the outside, do they? I never thought so. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive AirMike wrote: > > Don't give it a second thought. Just glass it, epoxy, or cover it up. Just keep in mind that you will need to put your headliner in and it might be easier to perforate it when you install the headliner and just punch the two bolts thru. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210190#210190 > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 08:51:44 PM PST US From: "David McNeill" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? Just be prepared to repair the canopy surface should you ever decide to change/repair your belt system. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 8:06 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Filling seatbelt countersink in canopy? I don't know, but I found usefulness in removing my seat belts about 1.5 years after I started flying, to do some additional bracket making for some lights. I'd hate to think of what those screws would do if glassed in and you ever had to try to remove them. They don't look that bad on the outside, do they? I never thought so. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive AirMike wrote: > > Don't give it a second thought. Just glass it, epoxy, or cover it up. Just keep in mind that you will need to put your headliner in and it might be easier to perforate it when you install the headliner and just punch the two bolts thru. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210190#210190 > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:39:31 PM PST US From: Chris Johnston Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: scat tube flange-reduction from 2" to 1" I'm not trying to control the amount of heat, just wanted everything to fit better in the tunnel. cj On Oct 24, 2008, at 7:29 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: > > Am I missing something here? The valve on the firewall is what > controls how much air there is going through the scat tube. > Putting in a smaller tube can also affect that, but that just > limits the amount of air going into the cabin at a given valve > setting, but closing the valve can also have the same affect. > > Tim (or anybody else), have you ever had either of your heat valves > all the way open? N256H has flown well below freezing a lot and > has never much more than cracked open the heater valves. > > do not archive > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse@saintaviation.com > Cell: 352-427-0285 > Fax: 815-377-3694 > > On Oct 24, 2008, at 7:47 AM, tomhanaway wrote: > >> >> >> CJ, >> Thanks for the site info. Actually, I'm using an extended Andair >> valve stem and don't have a clearance problem. I'm trying to keep >> the total hose volume down to lessen the heat effect. >> >> One guy has contacted me with a reducer he can build. I'm going >> to try two of them. One at the firewall to reduce hose and a >> second at the rear passenger valve to bring fitting back to 2". >> >> I've attached some pictures but will leave it up to him to post >> his name and # unless he tells me it's ok to do so. >> >> Thanks again, >> Tom Hanaway >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210074#210074 >> >> >> >> >> Attachments: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_3_266.jpg >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_2_199.jpg >> http://forums.matronics.com//files/reducer_1_916.jpg >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.