Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:53 AM - Re: Purge Valves (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
2. 03:57 AM - Re: cowl hinges (Bob Leffler)
3. 05:03 AM - Re: Purge Valves (Ralph E. Capen)
4. 05:11 AM - Re: cowl hinges (Ralph E. Capen)
5. 05:28 AM - Re: cowl hinges (Lew Gallagher)
6. 08:13 AM - Re: Purge Valves (Michael Kraus)
7. 09:25 AM - Re: Re: cowl hinges (William Curtis)
8. 09:25 AM - Re: cowl hinges (John Cox)
9. 10:29 AM - Re: cowl hinges (Lew Gallagher)
10. 12:00 PM - Re: Re: cowl hinges (Robin Marks)
11. 03:09 PM - Re: Re: cowl hinges (Carl Froehlich)
12. 03:59 PM - Re: Purge Valves (Carl Froehlich)
13. 05:34 PM - Fw: cowl hinges (dogsbark@comcast.net)
14. 06:43 PM - TCW Technologies Products (Bob-tcw)
15. 06:49 PM - Re: Purge Valves (rv10builder)
16. 07:04 PM - Re: Purge Valves (Rick Sked)
17. 08:13 PM - Re: Wegith and Balance (Rene)
18. 09:27 PM - Fuel senders (John Gonzalez)
Message 1
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Bob, many people did option two and routed it back to the line before the
selector. Seems to work ok. You wouldn't have hot fuel circulating as lo
ng as you select the opposite tank. In my particular case I plumbed the re
turn to the right tank so when purging hot fuel I would select the left tan
k to draw from.
Michael
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&c
ategory=0&log=57694&row=22
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&c
ategory=0&log=56523&row=23
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Purge Valves
I'm in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been researc
hing how to plumb the purge valve. I didn't want to have to add anymore li
nes after I complete the tanks.
I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the purg
e valve to be run back to the left tank. If you really want to go with a
lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tank switch a
nd let the switch control which tank is connected. Just having it routed t
o the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve.
In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two solutions.
The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection in the fuel
vent line. My concern with this approach is that I'm not sure what would
prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when purging.
The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to th
e left fuel line before the fuel selector valve. My concern here is that
the hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defeat one of t
he reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation.
I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing the
return line and if my concerns are well founded or not.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
Message 2
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Has anyone tried Carbinge hinges? (http://www.carbinge.com/carbinge1.htm)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 11:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl hinges
If you use the hinges , be sure and cover the rivet heads with a glass tape
or see the heads work their way through the paint after some hours.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl hinges
I'd use it again. It seems to be holding up just fine, and it works better
than I thought it ever would. I was a die-hard camloc planner in the
beginning but decided to give it a try and now I'm very happy with the
results. Just don't use them on the bottom section.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
dogsbark@comcast.net wrote:
> *I'm just getting started with the cowl and associated hinges. For
> those that used the stock hinge material....would you still use it if
> you did it again? How is it holding up? I seem to remember something
> mentioned of a heavier hinge material. Or...would you switch to
> Skybolts? I'm aware of the problem of the lower hinges losing ears,
> so I'll use an alternative approach there.*
>
> *Thanks in advance.*
>
> *Sean Blair*
>
> *#40225 *
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Purge Valves |
I put in the Andair dual valve and plumbed both sides in to the tank and further
in to the second bay. I had QB tanks and had to open them up for two SB's and
getting my fuel senders aligned.
My thinking was that now I won't have to placard "Select Left tank for purge operations"
as it will always go back from where it came. Also, since I had the
tanks open to put in a return line, I ran it in to the next bay at the same level
to dilute the heat as you have discussed.
I'll be testing my fuel system this weekend - if it passes, the dragon will breathe.....
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com>
>Sent: Oct 27, 2008 10:01 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Purge Valves
>
>I'm in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been
>researching how to plumb the purge valve. I didn't want to have to add
>anymore lines after I complete the tanks.
>
>
>
>I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the purge
>valve to be run back to the left tank. If you really want to go with a
>lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tank switch
>and let the switch control which tank is connected. Just having it routed
>to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve.
>
>
>
>In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two solutions.
>The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection in the fuel
>vent line. My concern with this approach is that I'm not sure what would
>prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when purging.
>
>
>
>The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to the
>left fuel line before the fuel selector valve. My concern here is that the
>hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defeat one of the
>reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation.
>
>
>
>I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing the
>return line and if my concerns are well founded or not.
>
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>
>Bob
>
>#40684
>
Message 4
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I used SkyBolts around the perimeter of the firewall and heavier hinge material
for the two horizontal runs.
-----Original Message-----
>From: dogsbark@comcast.net
>Sent: Oct 27, 2008 10:33 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: cowl hinges
>
>I'm just getting started with the cowl and associated hinges. For those that
used the stock hinge material....would you still use it if you did it again? How
is it holding up? I seem to remember something mentioned of a heavier hinge
material. Or...would you switch to Skybolts? I'm aware of the problem of the
lower hinges losing ears, so I'll use an alternative approach there. Thanks
in advance. Sean Blair #40225
Message 5
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After reading about cracked ears on the cowl hinges, we decided to go with camlocs
all around the firewall, and it is sooo easy to mount/disassemble the cowl.
As others have said, it's a one man operation. I didn't see the need to scallop
-- the weight is negligible, it's easier, and stronger.
I was searching for ideas on anchoring the hinge pin at the intake (I KNOW I saw
a whole picture display of close ups at OSH or something -- maybe Tim? ...
still can't find it!) and I ran across a reference to using a smaller hinge pin
than the one that comes with the hinge. Did I miss something? I've been sweating
getting that dang pin in, even with the extra length and an angle on the
surplus, it's a really tight fit to get it all the way in. With the bottom
on first, if I put the tightest side hinge pin in first, thump it toward the other
side, put the second pin in, then camloc it down -- it works. Really snug!
I may just hand sand down the pin if folks are using a smaller pin.
I've glassed in a tunnel from the entrance of the pin to the first ear (coated
a scrap of pin with vasoline and glassed around it) so that I don't have to poke
around hunting for that first ear.
Let me know if anyone knows where to find those pics of anchoring the pins. I
remember one guy in that thread said he'd fed his pin in through the cabin ...
Wow!
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Prop is on, cowl almost finished, paint prep!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210754#210754
Message 6
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This is exactly what we did. It works great with very little additional pl
umbing and no modifications to the tank. Just be sure the fuel selector v
alve is on the opposite tank than the return is plumbed to when purging the
system.
-----Original Message-----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Purge Valves
- Bob, many people did option two and routed it back to the line before t
he selector.- Seems to work ok.- You wouldn=92t have hot fuel circulati
ng as long as you select the opposite tank.- In my particular case I plum
bed the return to the right tank so when purging hot fuel I would select th
e left tank to draw from.
-
Michael
-
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&c
ategory=0&log=57694&row=22
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&c
ategory=0&log=56523&row=23
-
-
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 9:01 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Purge Valves
-
I=92m in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been resea
rching how to plumb the purge valve.- I didn=92t want to have to add anym
ore lines after I complete the tanks.
-
I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the purg
e valve to be run back to the left tank.-- If you really want to go wit
h a lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tank swit
ch and let the switch control which tank is connected.- Just having it ro
uted to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve.
-
In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two solutions.
-- The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection in the
fuel vent line.- My concern with this approach is that I=92m not sure wh
at would prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when purging.
-
The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to th
e left fuel line before the fuel selector valve.-- My concern here is t
hat the hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defeat one
of the reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation.
-
I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing the
return line and if my concerns are well founded or not.
-
Thanks,
[The entire original message is not included]
Message 7
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> I was searching for ideas on anchoring the hinge pin at the intake (I KNOW I
saw a whole picture display of close ups at OSH or something -- maybe Tim? ...
still can't find it!)
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/HingePin/
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
Message 8
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Composite hinges on composite cowls... A novel idea. Kind of like metal
hinges and metal locks on metal cowls of yester year.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 4:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl hinges
Has anyone tried Carbinge hinges?
(http://www.carbinge.com/carbinge1.htm)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 11:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl hinges
If you use the hinges , be sure and cover the rivet heads with a glass
tape
or see the heads work their way through the paint after some hours.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl hinges
I'd use it again. It seems to be holding up just fine, and it works
better
than I thought it ever would. I was a die-hard camloc planner in the
beginning but decided to give it a try and now I'm very happy with the
results. Just don't use them on the bottom section.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
dogsbark@comcast.net wrote:
> *I'm just getting started with the cowl and associated hinges. For
> those that used the stock hinge material....would you still use it if
> you did it again? How is it holding up? I seem to remember something
> mentioned of a heavier hinge material. Or...would you switch to
> Skybolts? I'm aware of the problem of the lower hinges losing ears,
> so I'll use an alternative approach there.*
>
> *Thanks in advance.*
>
> *Sean Blair*
>
> *#40225 *
>
Message 9
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Thanks, William!
Yes, that was YOUR the site! There are so many good sites, sometimes I get lost.
This should be fun. And Ralph is sending me pictures on how he routed his through
the cabin.
Later, - Lew
do not archive
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Prop is on, cowl almost finished, paint prep!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=210812#210812
Message 10
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Here is a sweet pin cover:
Robin
Message 11
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I ran the hinge pins aft on my 8A. They run though 1/4" aluminum tube to
out of sight bulkhead fittings under the panel. I'll do the same on the 10.
Carl Froehlich
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 12:43 PM
Subject: re: RV10-List: Re: cowl hinges
> I was searching for ideas on anchoring the hinge pin at the intake (I KNOW
I saw a whole picture display of close ups at OSH or something -- maybe Tim?
... still can't find it!)
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/HingePin/
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
Message 12
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I have 450 hours on my Airflow Performance 8A. I installed a return
line to
top of the left tank for the purge valve. Returning to either vent line
is
not a good idea.
That said, I have never had a need to actually purge the engine. I do
however use the purge valve for normal engine shut down to bleed the
pressure out of the spider. Bottom line is I see no =93hot fuel=94
problem for
returning the purge line fuel to a T in the left tank fuel line, nor is
there any reason to do the expensive option of having a ganged fuel
selector
valve.
If you are still building, installing a =BC=94 bulkhead fitting in the
left tank
is simple enough to do even if you end up not using a purge valve and
just
cap it. This is what I did for my 10.
Carl Froehlich
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 10:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Purge Valves
I=92m in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been
researching how to plumb the purge valve. I didn=92t want to have to
add
anymore lines after I complete the tanks.
I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the
purge
valve to be run back to the left tank. If you really want to go with a
lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tank
switch
and let the switch control which tank is connected. Just having it
routed
to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve.
In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two
solutions.
The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection in the
fuel
vent line. My concern with this approach is that I=92m not sure what
would
prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when purging.
The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to
the
left fuel line before the fuel selector valve. My concern here is that
the
hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defeat one of
the
reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation.
I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing
the
return line and if my concerns are well founded or not.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fwd: cowl hinges |
Sean,
This got bounced when I tried to send to the digest. =C2-I must not be si
gned
up correctly. =C2-I have photos of several applications. The neatest seri
es is
the Lancair IV with hinges all the way around on the cowl. =C2-Let me kno
w if
you'd like to see them - I can email them to you.
Would you mind forwarding the text below to the Digest for me?
Thanks,
John Barrett
-----Original Message-----
From: John Barrett [mailto:2thman@cablespeed.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 7:07 AM
Subject: re: cowl hinges
Sean Blair writes:
****************
I'm just getting started with the cowl and associated hinges. =C2-For tho
se
that used the stock hinge material....would you still use it if you did it
again? How
is it holding up? I seem to remember something mentioned of a heavier hinge
material. =C2-Or...would you switch to Skybolts? =C2-I'm aware of the p
roblem of
the
lower hinges losing ears, so I'll use an alternative approach there. Thanks
in
advance. Sean Blair #40225
****************
Sean,
Most people agree that fastening the cowl with a hidden system is far
superior esthetically to Cam Locks or screws or other systems that require
insertion and removal with a driver of some kind at various points along th
e
outside of the cowl. Aside from the extra work to service the engine
compartment with the Skybolts, the likelihood of dinging up the paint is
real and almost certain. =C2-There is additional drag that accompanies th
ese
systems as well.
If you accept the above premises, then the discussion centers around what
kind of hinge to use and how you apply it. =C2-Metal hinges attached to
composite material may be a choice but if you had access to a composite
hinge that weighs a lot less, and would outperform and outlast the metal
hinge wouldn't that be preferable?
With Carbinge, you simply bond the hinge to place with Hysol or some other
high peel strength adhesive then secure the hinge at either end with a rive
t
or two and the job is done. =C2-We have applications in aircraft that are
much
higher performance than the RV's. The Lancair IVP that uses the initial
prototype hinges we made has been flying almost 10 years and has well over
1,000 hours on it. =C2-The prototype hinges have about 1/3 the strength a
nd
quality of our production hinge and even so they have shown no deterioratio
n
such as the broken loops discussed on this thread. =C2-We now have a few
aircraft that utilize Carbinge for attachment of the lower cowl to fuselage
.
Once again the reports are that the system works well and holds up because
the composite doesn't deteriorate with load cycles and vibration like the
aluminum ones do. =C2-There is at least one L IV that uses the Carbinge t
o
attach the rear of the top cowl to the fuselage. =C2-It has several hundr
ed
hours of flight time on it and still looks beautiful - the owner is very
happy with it. =C2-He visited us from Southern California a couple of mon
ths
ago and I have to say the application is really cool. =C2-
There are literally many hundreds of builders including lots of RV guys who
have used our product for cowling attachment and who thank us for Carbinge.
They appreciate the quality, the service, the ease of installation and the
performance over time.
This is a shameless plug, I realize, but it comes with a strong belief in
the product and commitment to customer satisfaction.
See www.carbinge.com
Regards,
John Barrett, CEO
Leading Edge Composites
PO Box 428
Port Hadlock, WA 98339
www.carbinge.com
=C2-
Message 14
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| Subject: | TCW Technologies Products |
Fellow RV builders,
Just a note to let you know that the new products we had on display
at Oshkosh are now available and in stock.
We introduced two products:
1) The Intelligent Power Stabilizer (IPS) which allows critical
equipment in the plane, such as GPS, EFIS and engine monitors to be up
and running before and during engine starting without the need to carry
an auxiliary battery. Additionally, based on feedback from the show,
we've introduced an 8 amp model of this product as well.
2) The Intelligent Lighting Controller (ILC) which allows remote,
electronic switching of the primary aircraft lighting circuits and
includes the wig-wag function as well as dimming control of 3 lighting
circuits.
All the details are available on our web site. www.tcwtech.com
As always thanks for your support
Bob Newman RV-10 (40176)
TCW Technologies, LLC.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Purge Valves |
I too have the AFP system. I installed a "T" in the right fuel line. For
hot starts I select the left tank and valve open which flushes cool fuel
from the left tank back into the right (follow link below).
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rv10builder&project=7&category=501&log=15056&row=37
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
N104BS - 91 flying hours
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Im in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been
> researching how to plumb the purge valve. I didnt want to have to add
> anymore lines after I complete the tanks.
>
> I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the
> purge valve to be run back to the left tank. If you really want to go
> with a lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel
> tank switch and let the switch control which tank is connected. Just
> having it routed to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve.
>
> In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two
> solutions. The first solution routes the return line to a tee
> connection in the fuel vent line. My concern with this approach is
> that Im not sure what would prevent the fuel not going out the vent
> line when purging.
>
> The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed
> to the left fuel line before the fuel selector valve. My concern here
> is that the hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and
> defeat one of the reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation.
>
> I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing
> the return line and if my concerns are well founded or not.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> #40684
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Purge Valves |
Well...almost flying, but=C2-I ran mine through the firewall with a AN-4
bulkhead adapter, inside the=C2-cabin and out the right=C2-wing root an
d tee'd it to the fuel supply, I also put a check valve from Andair inline
to allow fuel to only flow to the tank, not from it. It seemed like a good
idea to prevent fuel from being somehow drawn up to the purge valve. I real
ly want to point out that the valve is a critical part of flight for the fu
el system. If it should somehow open, you're gonna shut down the engine. I
used the same control cable on the valve as I did the throttle and took the
same care to run the cable as I did with all the engine/mixture/prop contr
ols. I played with a failsafe closed=C2-return spring but ended up gettin
g frustrated trying to find a balanced spring to make it work well in all p
ositions as well as allowing me to operate the control.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 3:57:59 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Purge Valves
I have 450 hours on my Airflow Performance 8A.=C2- I installed a return l
ine to top of the left tank for the purge valve.=C2- Returning to either
vent line is not a good idea.
That said, I have never had a need to actually purge the engine.=C2- I do
however use the purge valve for normal engine shut down to bleed the press
ure out of the spider.=C2- Bottom line is I see no =9Chot fuel
=9D problem for returning the purge line fuel to a T in the left tank fu
el line, nor is there any reason to do the expensive option of having a gan
ged fuel selector valve.=C2-
If you are still building, installing a =C2=BC=9D bulkhead fitting in
the left tank is simple enough to do even if you end up not using a purge
valve and just cap it.=C2- This is what I did for my 10.
Carl Froehlich
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 10:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Purge Valves
I=99m in the process of building my tanks at the moment and have been
researching how to plumb the purge valve.=C2- I didn=99t want to h
ave to add anymore lines after I complete the tanks.
I was under the impression that it would be best for the line from the purg
e valve to be run back to the left tank.=C2-=C2- If you really want to
go with a lavish solution you can run the return lines through the fuel tan
k switch and let the switch control which tank is connected.=C2- Just hav
ing it routed to the tank left tank saves $$$ on the andair valve.
In reading the purge valve documentation from AFP, it shows two solutions.
=C2-=C2- The first solution routes the return line to a tee connection
in the fuel vent line.=C2- My concern with this approach is that I
=99m not sure what would prevent the fuel not going out the vent line when
purging.
The second solution in their documentation has the return line routed to th
e left fuel line before the fuel selector valve.=C2-=C2- My concern her
e is that the hot fuel will get mixed into the fuel line too soon and defea
t one of the reasons of for the purge valve in a hot start situation.
I am interested in hearing what others have done in regards to routing the
return line and if my concerns are well founded or not.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684 =C2- =C2- http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://fo
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Wegith and Balance |
Based on a request from John Acherman, here is my WB Spreadsheet. Use
at
your own risk. :-)
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 5:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wegith and Balance
I finally get around to getting an official weight and balance for my
airplane. But it has lead to a few questions.
(1) I find in surprising that vans RV-10 sample WB pdf does not have
arms
for the nose wheel and the mains. Do they expect those to be different
from
one builder to another? I could not find any spreadsheets from other
builders showing what their moment arms were. Yes I know I am supposed
to
measure this but I want to compare my results to some others. My Nose
wheel
arm ended up being 50.125" forward of the leading edge (99.440 based on
Vans
numbers) which makes my nose wheel arm 49.315. My mains are back 24"
from
the wing LE making my mains arm 123.440". What did others measure?
(2) So now I weigh the airplane (using certified scales) and I find the
empty CG way forward (102.46"). I expected the forward CG but not quite
that much. Even with me as the sole occupant and half fuel, I need to
have
100 lbs in the baggage area just to get the CG back to the most forward
allowable (107.84"). Now I played with the numbers and it does allow
one to
really load up the airplane for maximum capabilities, but wow I didn't
expect to have to load up the baggage area on the first flights. Did
others
find the same conditions?
If one were to take off on the first flight and not check the CG, it
woudl
make for an interesting landing! Looks like carrying passengers on the
flights is not only good but maybe even required unless I want to carry
around some extra weight (couple of 5 gallon water containers).
Very interesting!
Jim Combs
N312F, 40192
Message 18
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Does anyone remember getting a 1.5K resistor and a voltage adaptor in the box with
the fuel senders which Van's sent to us? Someone is telling me they should
have been in the box, but I have absolutely no recollection of these in the blue
and black cardboard box the units came in.
Thanks,
JOhn G. 409 Do Not Archive
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