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1. 07:58 AM - Re: Cutting & buffing (Randy Lervold)
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| Subject: | Re: Cutting & buffing |
Cutting & buffingAnother approach: don't use clearcoat and don't cut n
buff. Take the time in shooting to flow the paint correctly to get that
virgin wet look. Then you'll never have to worry about rivet heads, no
unsightly buffing compound in the cracks and around the rivets that can
never be removed, lighter weight without the clearcoat, and easier to
blend in should repairs ever be needed. Of course a cut-n-buff job on an
RV-10 must take forever those things are so huge.
I've painted three RVs this way and all came out good and get frequent
compliments. I had to do a repair on a section of the lower cowl on my
RV-8 and was able to blend it in so that it literally could not be seen
(spray pure reducer over the repaired area right after you shoot the
paint).
Info here...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Paint/paint.html
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Paint.htm
Personally, I don't think you can ever get a cut-n-buff surface to look
quite as glossy as the wet look of properly flowed paint.
FWIW,
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 10:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cutting & buffing
1500 to 2000 grit "wet" and dry. A discerning eye, a light loving
touch, years of experience and the desire not to reshoot the work.
After knocking about 50% to 75% of the natural clearcoat orange peel off
, you read the white foam that floats off with the constant water rinse.
Then, you buff it using no less than three different cuts of Mequire's
compounds. One of our RV-10 dinners will feature the Mequires rep
showing exactly that process. They leave Free samples.
The real secret is to lay enough clearcoat to sacrifice over the
color topcoat. Oh, did I mention that clearcoat adds weight, increases
gloss, protects the topcoat too.
I have had a lot better result with a poly foam pad rather than the
lambs wool of my youth. My hotrod days are long gone and I have had my
share of zealous over-buffing. I now know when to put down the tool and
resort to elbow grease and Karate Kid moves. Compound ON/ Compound Off.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 9:32 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Cutting & buffing
Ok, John Cox prompted the question when talking of Deems' spectacular
paint job.
How do you cut and buff without exposing rivet heads?? Most aircraft
I have seen that have come out of a paint shop after some rework have
too much paint removed over the rivet heads, leaving many nicely
polished but unpainted..
In my paint job, I have a number of rivets where the paint has not
flowed into the rivet countersink properly and look like they have
'black rings' around the rivet head. Not many, but very obvious in the
White paint. What causes this and how to fix? There has really been
precious little discussion in this forum about painting techniques and
problems. Tim's site (as always) is a starting point, but what other
sources of info are there??
Cheers,
Ron
187, almost done painting
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