Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:16 AM - Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include (MauleDriver)
2. 04:41 AM - Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
3. 05:49 AM - Re: Engine mounting ear nut torque (Jesse Saint)
4. 06:57 AM - Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include (N777TY)
5. 08:10 AM - Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include (David Schaefer)
6. 08:10 AM - fly droppings (Bill Britton)
7. 08:21 AM - Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
8. 08:25 AM - Re: Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include (DejaVu)
9. 08:31 AM - Re: fly droppings (Perry, Phil)
10. 08:53 AM - Re: fly droppings (John Cumins)
11. 09:13 AM - Re: fly droppings (Lew Gallagher)
12. 09:15 AM - Re: fly droppings (Jeff Carpenter)
13. 09:51 AM - Re: fly droppings (Dave Leikam)
14. 09:55 AM - Re: fly droppings (Bill Britton)
15. 10:08 AM - Re: fly droppings (Perry, Phil)
16. 10:10 AM - Re: fly droppings (Michael Kraus)
17. 10:55 AM - Re: fly droppings (John Cox)
18. 12:10 PM - Re: fly droppings (Bill Britton)
19. 12:39 PM - Re: fly droppings (Scott Schmidt)
20. 12:46 PM - Push Rod Height in Tunnel (Jeff Carpenter)
21. 01:51 PM - Re: Engine mounting ear nut torque (Chris)
22. 01:58 PM - Re: fly droppings (John Cox)
23. 02:20 PM - Re: Engine mounting ear nut torque (Rick Sked)
24. 02:23 PM - Re: fly droppings (greghale)
25. 05:32 PM - Re: fly droppings (Chuck Henry)
26. 05:55 PM - Re: fly droppings (gary)
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| Subject: | Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include |
Interesting. Is it possible or desirable to have the EIS configured so
that it doesn't issue any warnings?
If not, I assume everyone who is hiding the EIS needs this wire
configured into there system.
Regarding the EFIS - Are EFIS warnings issued on the screen or do they
require an external indicator light/audio signal?
Thanks
David Schaefer wrote:
> The EFIS warning is tripped by things like terrain alerts, obstacles
> etc. That alert can be re-set (or acknowledged) from the EFIS.
> However ANY warnings generated by the EIS must be cleared by the front
> buttons on the EIS or as I found out the hard way several years ago
> with a remote line out the back of the EIS to a button. The EIS goes
> back to GRT for this addition. I ran my wire into a db9 since it's
> just one wire sticking out the back of the EIS.
>
>
> David W. Schaefer
> RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
> www.n142ds.com <http://www.n142ds.com>
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:12 AM, MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com
> <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> I'm burying my EIS too. I haven't studied the alarm situation
> there closely but my intent was to drive everything thru the EFIS
> and hopefully configure the EIS to run silent and deep. I'll have
> to look for that wire.
>
> What do you see tripping the EFIS warning? Is that a fully
> configurable feature in the GRT HS or is it a generic alarm used
> for a variety of conditions?
>
> Thanks.
> (I love this list-server)
>
> David Schaefer wrote:
>> I currently have Primary and Secondary BUS low voltage, EIS
>> warning (oil pressure only at startup), EFIS warning, X-Feed
>> engaged, Starter engaged and Fuel Pump On.
>>
>> Remember when ordering your EIS to specify a remote line to
>> silence the EIS warning ...! If it's buried like mine, it's not
>> available to silence the alarm.
>>
>> I'll send you a picture off-line. I have a wonderful new system
>> that allows for dimming and push to test for a mixture of both
>> positive and negative triggered lamps!
>>
>> David W. Schaefer
>> RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
>> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil,
>> GRT EFIS HS
>> www.n142ds.com <http://www.n142ds.com>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 5:48 PM, MauleDriver
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>>
>>
>> Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights
>> on my panel. Some of the particulars include:
>> dual buss dual batt dual alt
>> 3 screen GRT HX
>> GRT EIS (hidden)
>> Garmin stack
>> PS 9000
>> TT AP
>> TT ADI
>>
>> My plan so far includes:
>> Door open - 2 lights
>> Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss
>> I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light
>> That's 5 lights
>> Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking
>> it makes sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs
>>
>> The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure
>> out a use for it.
>>
>> I would love to hear what others are doing or planning.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bill "building a panel" Watson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
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| Subject: | Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include |
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DQo
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mounting ear nut torque |
You can look in the Engine Overhaul Manual if you have one and if it
isn't specified then you use the general table of torque values for
the engine. I have one, but don't have access to it right now. I'll
look later if someone else hasn't already helped you by then.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Dec 11, 2008, at 7:39 PM, Chris wrote:
> Checked the archives with no luck, can't seem to find any info in
> engine documentation, therefore does anybody know the torque
> required for the nuts which hold the ears on the IO-540-D4A5 ? Its a
> 3/8 stud so does the usual torque number apply?
> Thanks
> Chris Lucas
> #40072
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| Subject: | Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include |
Yes, this is possible. However, the recommended approach is to have only ONE warning
set on EIS -- Low Oil Pressure. Nothing else (set limits to 0 so they
don't generate warnings). All other warnings and limits should be programmed
into the EFIS itself.
In this case, you would not need any remote ACK button for EIS -- low oil pressure
is not a warning that you dismiss with a button anyways :) You want this
limit in EIS since it "boots up" instantly, whereas EFIS can take 20-30 seconds
to boot up upon engine start.. I'd also recommend a warning light from EIS
-- and if set up like this, you can even label it "low oil presure." From my
experience, you do not need a "master warning" from EFIS... messages on the screen
provide enough of "distraction" to catch your eye.
Just to clarify a possible misunderstanding that was mentioned in this thread --
engine limits programmed on the EFIS itself are NOT generated by the EIS, hence
do not need to be acknowledged/dismissed on EIS.. so you do not need a remote
ack button.
HTH
Radomir
RV-7A N777TY
MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com wrote:
> Interesting. Is it possible or desirable to have the EIS configured so that
it doesn't issue any warnings?
>
> If not, I assume everyone who is hiding the EIS needs this wire configured into
there system.
>
> Regarding the EFIS - Are EFIS warnings issued on the screen or do they require
an external indicator light/audio signal?
>
> Thanks
>
>
--------
RV-7A
N777TY
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219054#219054
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| Subject: | Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include |
Sure .. don't set any alarms in the EIS. However the low oil pressure alarm
is very nice for alerting before the EFIS comes completely to life.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
On Fri, Dec 12, 2008 at 6:15 AM, MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> Interesting. Is it possible or desirable to have the EIS configured so
> that it doesn't issue any warnings?
>
> If not, I assume everyone who is hiding the EIS needs this wire configured
> into there system.
>
> Regarding the EFIS - Are EFIS warnings issued on the screen or do they
> require an external indicator light/audio signal?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> David Schaefer wrote:
>
> The EFIS warning is tripped by things like terrain alerts, obstacles etc.
> That alert can be re-set (or acknowledged) from the EFIS. However ANY
> warnings generated by the EIS must be cleared by the front buttons on the
> EIS or as I found out the hard way several years ago with a remote line out
> the back of the EIS to a button. The EIS goes back to GRT for this
> addition. I ran my wire into a db9 since it's just one wire sticking out
> the back of the EIS.
>
>
> David W. Schaefer
> RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
> www.n142ds.com
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:12 AM, MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>wrote:
>
>> I'm burying my EIS too. I haven't studied the alarm situation there
>> closely but my intent was to drive everything thru the EFIS and hopefully
>> configure the EIS to run silent and deep. I'll have to look for that wire.
>>
>> What do you see tripping the EFIS warning? Is that a fully configurable
>> feature in the GRT HS or is it a generic alarm used for a variety of
>> conditions?
>>
>> Thanks.
>> (I love this list-server)
>>
>> David Schaefer wrote:
>>
>> I currently have Primary and Secondary BUS low voltage, EIS warning (oil
>> pressure only at startup), EFIS warning, X-Feed engaged, Starter engaged and
>> Fuel Pump On.
>>
>> Remember when ordering your EIS to specify a remote line to silence the
>> EIS warning ...! If it's buried like mine, it's not available to silence
>> the alarm.
>>
>> I'll send you a picture off-line. I have a wonderful new system that
>> allows for dimming and push to test for a mixture of both positive and
>> negative triggered lamps!
>>
>> David W. Schaefer
>> RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
>> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
>> HS
>> www.n142ds.com
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 5:48 PM, MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my panel.
>>> Some of the particulars include:
>>> dual buss dual batt dual alt
>>> 3 screen GRT HX
>>> GRT EIS (hidden)
>>> Garmin stack
>>> PS 9000
>>> TT AP
>>> TT ADI
>>>
>>> My plan so far includes:
>>> Door open - 2 lights
>>> Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss
>>> I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light
>>> That's 5 lights
>>> Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes
>>> sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs
>>>
>>> The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use
>>> for it.
>>>
>>> I would love to hear what others are doing or planning.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bill "building a panel" Watson
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>>
>>
>> *
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 6
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My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the least,
the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem to find
anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m
grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the
whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to
grind the whole thing down for several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is
there such a thing???
Bill
Message 7
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| Subject: | Indicator lights - what functions to include |
Other option for oil pressure is to add a simple pressure switch (in
addition to the EIS pressure sensor) on the manifold and have it drive
the light which works rrespective of the status of the EIS.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Schaefer
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Indicator lights - what functions to include
Sure .. don't set any alarms in the EIS. However the low oil pressure
alarm is very nice for alerting before the EFIS comes completely to
life.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT
EFIS
www.n142ds.com
On Fri, Dec 12, 2008 at 6:15 AM, MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
wrote:
Interesting. Is it possible or desirable to have the EIS configured so
that it doesn't issue any warnings?
If not, I assume everyone who is hiding the EIS needs this wire
configured into there system.
Regarding the EFIS - Are EFIS warnings issued on the screen or do they
require an external indicator light/audio signal?
Thanks
David Schaefer wrote:
The EFIS warning is tripped by things like terrain alerts, obstacles
etc. That alert can be re-set (or acknowledged) from the EFIS. However
ANY warnings generated by the EIS must be cleared by the front buttons
on the EIS or as I found out the hard way several years ago with a
remote line out the back of the EIS to a button. The EIS goes back to
GRT for this addition. I ran my wire into a db9 since it's just one
wire sticking out the back of the EIS.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT
EFIS
www.n142ds.com
On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 10:12 AM, MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
wrote:
I'm burying my EIS too. I haven't studied the alarm situation there
closely but my intent was to drive everything thru the EFIS and
hopefully configure the EIS to run silent and deep. I'll have to look
for that wire.
What do you see tripping the EFIS warning? Is that a fully configurable
feature in the GRT HS or is it a generic alarm used for a variety of
conditions?
Thanks.
(I love this list-server)
David Schaefer wrote:
I currently have Primary and Secondary BUS low voltage, EIS warning (oil
pressure only at startup), EFIS warning, X-Feed engaged, Starter engaged
and Fuel Pump On.
Remember when ordering your EIS to specify a remote line to silence the
EIS warning ...! If it's buried like mine, it's not available to
silence the alarm.
I'll send you a picture off-line. I have a wonderful new system that
allows for dimming and push to test for a mixture of both positive and
negative triggered lamps!
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT
EFIS HS
www.n142ds.com
On Tue, Dec 9, 2008 at 5:48 PM, MauleDriver <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
wrote:
Looking for thoughts regarding indicator/annunciator lights on my panel.
Some of the particulars include:
dual buss dual batt dual alt
3 screen GRT HX
GRT EIS (hidden)
Garmin stack
PS 9000
TT AP
TT ADI
My plan so far includes:
Door open - 2 lights
Low Voltage - 2 lights - 1 per buss
I'm thinking it makes sense to add 1 low oil pressure light
That's 5 lights
Some of that can be displayed thru the GRTs but I'm thinking it makes
sense to have the 5 tracked independent of the GRTs
The GRT can drive an indicator or 3 but I'm unable to figure out a use
for it.
I would love to hear what others are doing or planning.
Thanks
Bill "building a panel" Watson
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
o
ntribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
o
ntribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
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href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Indicator lights - what functions to include |
To summarize the various responses:
Engine information from the EIS can be repeated on the GRT EFIS.
Alert limits are set on either system independent of one another.
Either system can be programmed to have no alerts.
Alerts generated by one system are not displayed on the other.
Alerts tripped by one system can only be reset/acknowledged by that system.
Either system can have an external light which blinks when tripped based
on programmed limits, steady when acknowledged, goes away when problem is
no longer there.
Leveraging the capability of each system can eliminate the need for the
EIS remote button.
>
> Yes, this is possible. However, the recommended approach is to have only
> ONE warning set on EIS -- Low Oil Pressure. Nothing else (set limits to 0
> so they don't generate warnings). All other warnings and limits should be
> programmed into the EFIS itself.
>
> In this case, you would not need any remote ACK button for EIS -- low oil
> pressure is not a warning that you dismiss with a button anyways :) You
> want this limit in EIS since it "boots up" instantly, whereas EFIS can
> take 20-30 seconds to boot up upon engine start.. I'd also recommend a
> warning light from EIS -- and if set up like this, you can even label it
> "low oil presure." From my experience, you do not need a "master warning"
> from EFIS... messages on the screen provide enough of "distraction" to
> catch your eye.
>
> Just to clarify a possible misunderstanding that was mentioned in this
> thread -- engine limits programmed on the EFIS itself are NOT generated by
> the EIS, hence do not need to be acknowledged/dismissed on EIS.. so you do
> not need a remote ack button.
>
>
> HTH
> Radomir
> RV-7A N777TY
>
>
> MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com wrote:
>> Interesting. Is it possible or desirable to have the EIS configured so
>> that it doesn't issue any warnings?
>>
>> If not, I assume everyone who is hiding the EIS needs this wire
>> configured into there system.
>>
>> Regarding the EFIS - Are EFIS warnings issued on the screen or do they
>> require an external indicator light/audio signal?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>
>
> --------
> RV-7A
> N777TY
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219054#219054
>
>
Message 9
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Did they etch the aluminum or are they just glued to the surface really
well?
Phil
________________________________
From: Bill Britton [mailto:william@gbta.net]
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: fly droppings
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the least,
the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem to find
anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m
grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the
whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to
grind the whole thing down for several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is
there such a thing???
Bill
Message 10
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Bill
Try MEK that will not harm the alum.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Britton
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 8:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: fly droppings
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the least, the
flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem to find anything
to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m grinding wheel. I
haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the whole surface of one of my
elevators is spotted and I don't want to grind the whole thing down for
several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is there
such a thing???
Bill
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: fly droppings |
Bill,
Fly droppings? Spiders leave nasty crap, but fly droppings is new to me! With
bug poop on cars, not aluminum, I've about rubbed through paint, metal etc. with
all kinds of solvents before I tried just soap and water (not purple power
and such that oxidizes aluminum very quickly), and it comes right off. Blood
too -- another story or two.
Later, - Lew
Do not archive.
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Prop is on, cowl almost finished, paint prep!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219075#219075
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: fly droppings |
a little alumaprep quickly rinsed off should do the trick
wow.
we've pretty much covered everything on this list now.
do not archive
On Dec 12, 2008, at 8:10 AM, Bill Britton wrote:
> My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the
> least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot
> seem to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum
> short of a 3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea
> yet because the whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and
> I don't want to grind the whole thing down for several reasons.
>
> Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is
> there such a thing???
>
> Bill
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: fly droppings |
Try a small amount of metal polish like "Flitz" or even an auto paint
polish.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Britton
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: fly droppings
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the
least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem
to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a
3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the
whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to
grind the whole thing down for several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is
there such a thing???
Bill
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: fly droppings |
Yeah, I know. It's a little embarassing that I let it happen, but I
did. I've tried the MEK and that didn't do it. I guess I haven't tried
just warm water and soap (not sure why--probably the same part of my
brain that let it happen in the first place). Somebody asked if it
etched the aluminum, I'm not sure but it's pretty damn hard to get rid
of!!! I'll try the water/soap (however, I have my doubts) and see what
happens.
While on the subject, I've thought about using shrink wrap on my
finished parts before but have never tried it. Anybody got any input on
doing this. Not sure if it would make the interior air tight or not
(moisture wise--good or bad).
Thanks for the ideas but keep them coming. I don't have any alumaprep.
where's the best place to get a little bit of it???
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
a little alumaprep quickly rinsed off should do the trick
wow.
we've pretty much covered everything on this list now.
do not archive
On Dec 12, 2008, at 8:10 AM, Bill Britton wrote:
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the
least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem
to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a
3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the
whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to
grind the whole thing down for several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is
there such a thing???
Bill
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
12/11/2008 8:58 PM
Message 15
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Hey Bill,
I was the one who asked about it etching. This is what I'd try.
Get a bath towel that is completely drenched in water and lay it on the
surface for a couple of hours. That'll let it soak without making a
mess of your plane or your floor. Then see if that soaking will soften
it up enough to wipe off.
Sounds like we need to be using fly poop instead of flox! :)
Phil
________________________________
From: Bill Britton [mailto:william@gbta.net]
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Yeah, I know. It's a little embarassing that I let it happen, but I
did. I've tried the MEK and that didn't do it. I guess I haven't tried
just warm water and soap (not sure why--probably the same part of my
brain that let it happen in the first place). Somebody asked if it
etched the aluminum, I'm not sure but it's pretty damn hard to get rid
of!!! I'll try the water/soap (however, I have my doubts) and see what
happens.
While on the subject, I've thought about using shrink wrap on my
finished parts before but have never tried it. Anybody got any input on
doing this. Not sure if it would make the interior air tight or not
(moisture wise--good or bad).
Thanks for the ideas but keep them coming. I don't have any alumaprep.
where's the best place to get a little bit of it???
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Carpenter <mailto:jeff@westcottpress.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
a little alumaprep quickly rinsed off should do the trick
wow.
we've pretty much covered everything on this list now.
do not archive
On Dec 12, 2008, at 8:10 AM, Bill Britton wrote:
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to
say the least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I
cannot seem to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum
short of a 3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet
because the whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't
want to grind the whole thing down for several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly
droppings or is there such a thing???
Bill
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
h
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________
- 270.9.17/1844 - Release Date: 12/11/2008 8:58 PM
Message 16
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Message 17
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Organics are best dissolved with the universal solvent - Water. On my
fiberglass boat, spiders found the ceiling of the boathouse conducive to
long term residency. A mild solution of Simple Green with copious
amounts of water made a difference.
On vinyl, the problem became more acute. The residue changed the white
vinyl color.
On aluminum, the droppings proved to be Highly Acidic. Anodized parts
seemed to be slightly better protected. The copious water flush can
remove the solids. On a microscopic level (NDT),The acidic crater can
lead to primer and topcoat separation in extreme cases.
Alumaprep/Prepsolv is one course of cleaning. Polishing compound which
removes the acids and pitted metal in the crater is another. Alclad is
the substrate we are talking about. Aluminum oxides rapidly in heat and
humid locations along with the air. All of us should be able to
visually determine when the pure aluminum is gone and we are down to the
base metal (with copper alloy). It is also good to know just how
shallow the pure aluminum is on the skin. Lots of builders scotchbrite
away simple abrasions (during the course of a build) and with it goes
the pure oxidized aluminum protection. Months later, the goal is to
prep some more Alclad in the topcoat process which was already down to
minimums.
Cessna had a problem a few years ago with filiform corrosion and little
separation dots all over the upper surfaces of the wings. Turned out
the aircraft were parked overnight during the summer awaiting Topcoat.
The higher acidic rain/dew in the Midwest coupled by flights of insects
at night, left a mark which did not show till years later in the paint.
That all took place with standard preparation procedures not looking for
organic trails.
Your topcoat professional can embrace the needed action to warrant his
craftsmanship. Be sure and mention the issue in writing so as to share
the journey.
For the rest of us, cheap plastic painters tarps can save endless hours
of cleanup and dust abrasion. My heart goes out to you Bill.... good
luck.
Good luck.
John Cox - KUAO
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Hey Bill,
I was the one who asked about it etching. This is what I'd try.
Get a bath towel that is completely drenched in water and lay it on the
surface for a couple of hours. That'll let it soak without making a
mess of your plane or your floor. Then see if that soaking will soften
it up enough to wipe off.
Sounds like we need to be using fly poop instead of flox! :)
Phil
________________________________
From: Bill Britton [mailto:william@gbta.net]
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Yeah, I know. It's a little embarrassing that I let it happen, but I
did. I've tried the MEK and that didn't do it. I guess I haven't tried
just warm water and soap (not sure why--probably the same part of my
brain that let it happen in the first place). Somebody asked if it
etched the aluminum, I'm not sure but it's pretty damn hard to get rid
of!!! I'll try the water/soap (however, I have my doubts) and see what
happens.
While on the subject, I've thought about using shrink wrap on my
finished parts before but have never tried it. Anybody got any input on
doing this. Not sure if it would make the interior air tight or not
(moisture wise--good or bad).
Thanks for the ideas but keep them coming. I don't have any alumaprep.
where's the best place to get a little bit of it???
Bill
On Dec 12, 2008, at 8:10 AM, Bill Britton wrote:
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the
least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem
to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a
3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the
whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to
grind the whole thing down for several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or
is there such a thing???
Bill
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: fly droppings |
Well, water and a little soap did the trick. Not sure why I didn't ever
try it before but I didn't. Anyway, I hope there's not any acids left
that will cause problems down the road but I will be sure to mention it
to whomever ends up painting the plane. Rest assured, I will not let it
happen again. By the way I did consider the wet towel. It was my next
move if the warm water didn't work.
Now, as long as one of you brainiacs doesn't tell me that dawn dish soap
eats aluminum, I feel better.
Thanks again,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 12:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Organics are best dissolved with the universal solvent - Water. On my
fiberglass boat, spiders found the ceiling of the boathouse conducive to
long term residency. A mild solution of Simple Green with copious
amounts of water made a difference.
On vinyl, the problem became more acute. The residue changed the
white vinyl color.
On aluminum, the droppings proved to be Highly Acidic. Anodized parts
seemed to be slightly better protected. The copious water flush can
remove the solids. On a microscopic level (NDT),The acidic crater can
lead to primer and topcoat separation in extreme cases.
Alumaprep/Prepsolv is one course of cleaning. Polishing compound which
removes the acids and pitted metal in the crater is another. Alclad is
the substrate we are talking about. Aluminum oxides rapidly in heat and
humid locations along with the air. All of us should be able to
visually determine when the pure aluminum is gone and we are down to the
base metal (with copper alloy). It is also good to know just how
shallow the pure aluminum is on the skin. Lots of builders scotchbrite
away simple abrasions (during the course of a build) and with it goes
the pure oxidized aluminum protection. Months later, the goal is to
prep some more Alclad in the topcoat process which was already down to
minimums.
Cessna had a problem a few years ago with filiform corrosion and
little separation dots all over the upper surfaces of the wings. Turned
out the aircraft were parked overnight during the summer awaiting
Topcoat. The higher acidic rain/dew in the Midwest coupled by flights
of insects at night, left a mark which did not show till years later in
the paint. That all took place with standard preparation procedures not
looking for organic trails.
Your topcoat professional can embrace the needed action to warrant his
craftsmanship. Be sure and mention the issue in writing so as to share
the journey.
For the rest of us, cheap plastic painters tarps can save endless
hours of cleanup and dust abrasion. My heart goes out to you Bill..
good luck.
Good luck.
John Cox - KUAO
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:06 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Hey Bill,
I was the one who asked about it etching. This is what I'd try.
Get a bath towel that is completely drenched in water and lay it on
the surface for a couple of hours. That'll let it soak without making a
mess of your plane or your floor. Then see if that soaking will soften
it up enough to wipe off.
Sounds like we need to be using fly poop instead of flox! :)
Phil
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Bill Britton [mailto:william@gbta.net]
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:55 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Yeah, I know. It's a little embarrassing that I let it happen, but I
did. I've tried the MEK and that didn't do it. I guess I haven't tried
just warm water and soap (not sure why--probably the same part of my
brain that let it happen in the first place). Somebody asked if it
etched the aluminum, I'm not sure but it's pretty damn hard to get rid
of!!! I'll try the water/soap (however, I have my doubts) and see what
happens.
While on the subject, I've thought about using shrink wrap on my
finished parts before but have never tried it. Anybody got any input on
doing this. Not sure if it would make the interior air tight or not
(moisture wise--good or bad).
Thanks for the ideas but keep them coming. I don't have any
alumaprep. where's the best place to get a little bit of it???
Bill
On Dec 12, 2008, at 8:10 AM, Bill Britton wrote:
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the
least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem
to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a
3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the
whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to
grind the whole thing down for several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is
there such a thing???
Bill
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
12/11/2008 8:58 PM
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: fly droppings |
=0AMore info on the web about this. This is a serious problem and should p
robably take precedence over the auto-makers bail out plan. =0A=0AScott Sch
midt=0Ascottmschmidt@yahoo.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A___________________________
_____=0AFrom: Bill Britton <william@gbta.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com
=0ASent: Friday, December 12, 2008 1:07:31 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: fly
droppings=0A=0A =0AWell, water and a little soap did the trick. =0ANot su
re why I didn't ever try it before but I didn't. Anyway, I hope =0Athere's
not any acids left that will cause problems down the road but I will be
=0Asure to mention it to whomever ends up painting the plane. Rest assured
, I =0Awill not let it happen again. By the way I did consider the wet =0A
towel. It was my next move if the warm water didn't work.=0A =0ANow, as lo
ng as one of you brainiacs doesn't tell =0Ame that dawn dish soap eats alum
inum, I feel better.=0A =0AThanks again,=0ABill=0A----- Original Message --
--- =0AFrom: John Cox =0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Friday, Dece
mber 12, 2008 12:53 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings=0A=0AOrgan
ics are best dissolved with the universal solvent - Water. On my fibergla
ss boat, spiders found the ceiling of the boathouse conducive to long term
residency. A mild solution of Simple Green with copious amounts of water
made a difference. =0A =0AOn vinyl, the problem became more acute. The
residue changed the white vinyl color.=0A =0AOn aluminum, the droppings
proved to be Highly Acidic. Anodized parts seemed to be slightly better p
rotected. The copious water flush can remove the solids. On a microscopic
level (NDT),The acidic crater can lead to primer and topcoat separation i
n extreme cases. Alumaprep/Prepsolv is one course of cleaning. Polishing
compound which removes the acids and pitted metal in the crater is anothe
r. Alclad is the substrate we are talking about. Aluminum oxides rapidly
in heat and humid locations along with the air. All of us should be able
to visually determine when the pure aluminum is gone and we are down to t
he base metal (with copper alloy). It is also good to know just how shall
ow the pure aluminum is on the skin. Lots of builders scotchbrite away si
mple abrasions (during the course of a build) and with it goes the pure ox
idized aluminum protection. Months later, the goal is to prep some more A
lclad in the topcoat process which was
already down to minimums.=0A =0ACessna had a problem a few years ago with
filiform corrosion and little separation dots all over the upper surfaces
of the wings. Turned out the aircraft were parked overnight during the s
ummer awaiting Topcoat. The higher acidic rain/dew in the Midwest coupled
by flights of insects at night, left a mark which did not show till years
later in the paint. That all took place with standard preparation proced
ures not looking for organic trails.=0A =0AYour topcoat professional can
embrace the needed action to warrant his craftsmanship. Be sure and menti
on the issue in writing so as to share the journey.=0A =0AFor the rest of
us, cheap plastic painters tarps can save endless hours of cleanup and du
st abrasion. My heart goes out to you Bill=85. good luck.=0A =0AGood luc
k.=0A =0AJohn Cox - KUAO=0A =0Ado not archive=0A =0AFrom:owner-rv10-list-
server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Beha
lf Of Perry, Phil=0ASent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:06 AM=0ATo: rv10-li
st@matronics.com=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings=0A =0AHey Bill,
=0A =0AI was the one who asked about it etching. This is what I'd try.
=0A =0AGet a bath towel that is completely drenched in water and lay it on
the surface for a couple of hours. That'll let it soak without making a
mess of your plane or your floor. Then see if that soaking will soften it
up enough to wipe off.=0A =0ASounds like we need to be using fly poop in
stead of flox! :)=0A =0APhil=0A =0A =0A=0A_______________________________
_=0A =0AFrom:Bill Britton [mailto:william@gbta.net] =0ASent: Friday, Decem
ber 12, 2008 11:55 AM=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV10-Li
st: fly droppings=0AYeah, I know. It's a little embarrassing that I let
it happen, but I did. I've tried the MEK and that didn't do it. I guess
I haven't tried just warm water and soap (not sure why--probably the same
part of my brain that let it happen in the first place). Somebody asked i
f it etched the aluminum, I'm not sure but it's pretty damn hard to get ri
d of!!! I'll try the water/soap (however, I have my doubts) and see what
happens. =0A =0AWhile on the subject, I've thought about using shrink wra
p on my finished parts before but have never tried it. Anybody got any in
put on doing this. Not sure if it would make the interior air tight or no
t (moisture wise--good or bad).=0A =0AThanks for the ideas but keep them
coming. I don't have any alumaprep. where's the best place to get a litt
le bit of it???=0A =0ABill=0AOn Dec 12, 2008, at 8:10 AM, Bill Britton wro
te:=0A=0A=0AMy project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say t
he least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem
to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m
grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the whole
surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't want to grind the w
hole thing down for several reasons.=0A =0ADoes anybody know of a quick ea
sy way to remove fly droppings or is there such a thing???=0A =0ABill=0Aht
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A=0A=0Ahref="http://www.matro
nics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List=0A
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0A=0A_____
___________________________=0A - =0A270.9.17/1844 - Release Date: 12/11/20
=========0A
Message 20
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| Subject: | Push Rod Height in Tunnel |
Hi All,
I'm planning on mounting my two Comant Bent Whip Comm Antennas in the
tunnel, centered below the push rod... one just forward of the
forward rear seat bulkhead and the other just forward of the rear
baggage bulkhead. I've started the process of installing the push
rod to see if I've got adequate clearance for the coax connection,
but thought some of you may have already figured that one out (and
I've got some silly hope I can avoid multiple installations of the
push rod). I'll be using a .063 backing plate.
Thank you,
Jeff Carpenter
40304
definitely in the 90/90 phase
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mounting ear nut torque |
Thats what I need but don't have one yet...figured someone on the list
may have one at their finger tips. I wasn't sure I would want to use
the standard torque since the stud is in Al housing. Other folks are
checking so if I hear from my local builder friends I'll let you know.
Thanks
-Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mounting ear nut torque
You can look in the Engine Overhaul Manual if you have one and if it
isn't specified then you use the general table of torque values for the
engine. I have one, but don't have access to it right now. I'll look
later if someone else hasn't already helped you by then.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Dec 11, 2008, at 7:39 PM, Chris wrote:
Checked the archives with no luck, can't seem to find any info in
engine documentation, therefore does anybody know the torque required
for the nuts which hold the ears on the IO-540-D4A5 ? Its a 3/8 stud so
does the usual torque number apply?
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 22
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Fly droppings, spiders, gnats, it's all organic. Most but not all soaps
are alkaline in pH and hence help neutralize acidic. However, the
"Brainiacs" would tell you to know your detergents. Hydrogen
Embrittlement is the buzzword. Steel fasteners that are cadmium plated
tend to suffer if the wrong cleaner is used. Hence the development of
Simple Green "Aviation approved".
Water with approved cleaners can go a long way towards remediation.
Plastic sheeting is a great preventative.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 12:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
________________________________
From: Bill Britton <william@gbta.net>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 1:07:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Well, water and a little soap did the trick. Not sure why I didn't ever
try it before but I didn't. Anyway, I hope there's not any acids left
that will cause problems down the road but I will be sure to mention it
to whomever ends up painting the plane. Rest assured, I will not let it
happen again. By the way I did consider the wet towel. It was my next
move if the warm water didn't work.
Now, as long as one of you brainiacs doesn't tell me that dawn dish soap
eats aluminum, I feel better.
Thanks again,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 12:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Organics are best dissolved with the universal solvent - Water.
On my fiberglass boat, spiders found the ceiling of the boathouse
conducive to long term residency. A mild solution of Simple Green with
copious amounts of water made a difference.
On vinyl, the problem became more acute. The residue changed
the white vinyl color.
On aluminum, the droppings proved to be Highly Acidic. Anodized
parts seemed to be slightly better protected. The copious water flush
can remove the solids. On a microscopic level (NDT),The acidic crater
can lead to primer and topcoat separation in extreme cases.
Alumaprep/Prepsolv is one course of cleaning. Polishing compound which
removes the acids and pitted metal in the crater is another. Alclad is
the substrate we are talking about. Aluminum oxides rapidly in heat and
humid locations along with the air. All of us should be able to
visually determine when the pure aluminum is gone and we are down to the
base metal (with copper alloy). It is also good to know just how
shallow the pure aluminum is on the skin. Lots of builders scotchbrite
away simple abrasions (during the course of a build) and with it goes
the pure oxidized aluminum protection. Months later, the goal is to
prep some more Alclad in the topcoat process which was already down to
minimums.
Cessna had a problem a few years ago with filiform corrosion and
little separation dots all over the upper surfaces of the wings. Turned
out the aircraft were parked overnight during the summer awaiting
Topcoat. The higher acidic rain/dew in the Midwest coupled by flights
of insects at night, left a mark which did not show till years later in
the paint. That all took place with standard preparation procedures not
looking for organic trails.
Your topcoat professional can embrace the needed action to
warrant his craftsmanship. Be sure and mention the issue in writing so
as to share the journey.
For the rest of us, cheap plastic painters tarps can save
endless hours of cleanup and dust abrasion. My heart goes out to you
Bill.... good luck.
Good luck.
John Cox - KUAO
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:06 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Hey Bill,
I was the one who asked about it etching. This is what I'd try.
Get a bath towel that is completely drenched in water and lay it
on the surface for a couple of hours. That'll let it soak without
making a mess of your plane or your floor. Then see if that soaking
will soften it up enough to wipe off.
Sounds like we need to be using fly poop instead of flox! :)
Phil
________________________________
From: Bill Britton [mailto:william@gbta.net]
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:55 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Yeah, I know. It's a little embarrassing that I let it happen,
but I did. I've tried the MEK and that didn't do it. I guess I haven't
tried just warm water and soap (not sure why--probably the same part of
my brain that let it happen in the first place). Somebody asked if it
etched the aluminum, I'm not sure but it's pretty damn hard to get rid
of!!! I'll try the water/soap (however, I have my doubts) and see what
happens.
While on the subject, I've thought about using shrink wrap on my
finished parts before but have never tried it. Anybody got any input on
doing this. Not sure if it would make the interior air tight or not
(moisture wise--good or bad).
Thanks for the ideas but keep them coming. I don't have any
alumaprep. where's the best place to get a little bit of it???
Bill
On Dec 12, 2008, at 8:10 AM, Bill Britton wrote:
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to
say the least, the flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I
cannot seem to find anything to take the fly droppings off the aluminum
short of a 3m grinding wheel. I haven't sold myself on that idea yet
because the whole surface of one of my elevators is spotted and I don't
want to grind the whole thing down for several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly
droppings or is there such a thing???
Bill
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
h
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href= <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref=>
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________
- 270.9.17/1844 - Release Date: 12/11/2008 8:58 PM
http://www.matronics.com/href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-
L
ist">http://www.matronics.================
=======
" target="_blank"
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matr======
============
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mounting ear nut torque |
I have one...just not at my fingertips. In a few hours I may be able to get
you the value.
Rick Sked
40185
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <toaster73@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 1:51:18 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mounting ear nut torque
Thats what I need but don't have one yet...figured someone on the list may
have one at their finger tips.=C2- I wasn't sure I would want to use the
standard torque since the stud is in Al housing. Other folks are checking s
o if I hear from my local builder friends I'll let you know.
Thanks
-Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine mounting ear nut torque
You can look in the Engine Overhaul Manual if you have one and if it isn't
specified then you use the general table of torque values for the engine.
=C2-I have one, but don't have access to it right now. =C2-I'll look la
ter if someone else hasn't already helped you by then.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Dec 11, 2008, at 7:39 PM, Chris wrote:
Checked the archives with no luck, can't seem to find any info in engine do
cumentation, therefore does anybody know the torque required for the nuts w
hich hold the ears on the IO-540-D4A5 ? Its a 3/8 stud so does the usual to
rque number apply?
Thanks
Chris Lucas
#40072 http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href
="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
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==============
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: fly droppings |
WD-40 works wonders. I use it to take off dried up bugs on my leading edge.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219124#219124
Message 25
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The question was asked earlier and I think I might have missed the response.
Does anybody use stretch wrap to protect their completed pieces? I am
leaving mine in a buddy's hanger but would like to stretch wrap them in an
effort to protect them from the elements and/or critters. Would hate to
unwrap them in a year or two and see them completely destroyed for some
reason. I do remove all of the protective blue film prior to putting them
away. Heard that on a suggestion earlier last summer which makes sense.
Chuck Henry
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 4:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Fly droppings, spiders, gnats, it's all organic. Most but not all soaps are
alkaline in pH and hence help neutralize acidic. However, the "Brainiacs"
would tell you to know your detergents. Hydrogen Embrittlement is the
buzzword. Steel fasteners that are cadmium plated tend to suffer if the
wrong cleaner is used. Hence the development of Simple Green "Aviation
approved".
Water with approved cleaners can go a long way towards remediation. Plastic
sheeting is a great preventative.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 12:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
_____
From: Bill Britton <william@gbta.net>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 1:07:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Well, water and a little soap did the trick. Not sure why I didn't ever try
it before but I didn't. Anyway, I hope there's not any acids left that will
cause problems down the road but I will be sure to mention it to whomever
ends up painting the plane. Rest assured, I will not let it happen again.
By the way I did consider the wet towel. It was my next move if the warm
water didn't work.
Now, as long as one of you brainiacs doesn't tell me that dawn dish soap
eats aluminum, I feel better.
Thanks again,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 12:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Organics are best dissolved with the universal solvent - Water. On my
fiberglass boat, spiders found the ceiling of the boathouse conducive to
long term residency. A mild solution of Simple Green with copious amounts
of water made a difference.
On vinyl, the problem became more acute. The residue changed the white
vinyl color.
On aluminum, the droppings proved to be Highly Acidic. Anodized parts
seemed to be slightly better protected. The copious water flush can remove
the solids. On a microscopic level (NDT),The acidic crater can lead to
primer and topcoat separation in extreme cases. Alumaprep/Prepsolv is one
course of cleaning. Polishing compound which removes the acids and pitted
metal in the crater is another. Alclad is the substrate we are talking
about. Aluminum oxides rapidly in heat and humid locations along with the
air. All of us should be able to visually determine when the pure aluminum
is gone and we are down to the base metal (with copper alloy). It is also
good to know just how shallow the pure aluminum is on the skin. Lots of
builders scotchbrite away simple abrasions (during the course of a build)
and with it goes the pure oxidized aluminum protection. Months later, the
goal is to prep some more Alclad in the topcoat process which was already
down to minimums.
Cessna had a problem a few years ago with filiform corrosion and little
separation dots all over the upper surfaces of the wings. Turned out the
aircraft were parked overnight during the summer awaiting Topcoat. The
higher acidic rain/dew in the Midwest coupled by flights of insects at
night, left a mark which did not show till years later in the paint. That
all took place with standard preparation procedures not looking for organic
trails.
Your topcoat professional can embrace the needed action to warrant his
craftsmanship. Be sure and mention the issue in writing so as to share the
journey.
For the rest of us, cheap plastic painters tarps can save endless hours of
cleanup and dust abrasion. My heart goes out to you Bill.. good luck.
Good luck.
John Cox - KUAO
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Hey Bill,
I was the one who asked about it etching. This is what I'd try.
Get a bath towel that is completely drenched in water and lay it on the
surface for a couple of hours. That'll let it soak without making a mess of
your plane or your floor. Then see if that soaking will soften it up enough
to wipe off.
Sounds like we need to be using fly poop instead of flox! :)
Phil
_____
From: Bill Britton [mailto:william@gbta.net]
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Yeah, I know. It's a little embarrassing that I let it happen, but I did.
I've tried the MEK and that didn't do it. I guess I haven't tried just warm
water and soap (not sure why--probably the same part of my brain that let it
happen in the first place). Somebody asked if it etched the aluminum, I'm
not sure but it's pretty damn hard to get rid of!!! I'll try the water/soap
(however, I have my doubts) and see what happens.
While on the subject, I've thought about using shrink wrap on my finished
parts before but have never tried it. Anybody got any input on doing this.
Not sure if it would make the interior air tight or not (moisture wise--good
or bad).
Thanks for the ideas but keep them coming. I don't have any alumaprep.
where's the best place to get a little bit of it???
Bill
On Dec 12, 2008, at 8:10 AM, Bill Britton wrote:
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the least, the
flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem to find anything
to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m grinding wheel. I
haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the whole surface of one of my
elevators is spotted and I don't want to grind the whole thing down for
several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is there
such a thing???
Bill
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
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Message 26
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I protected my finished parts with stretch wrap for about 1 year with good
success. I can't speak to longer but it didn't appear to be a problem.
Gary Specketer
40274 Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Henry
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 7:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
The question was asked earlier and I think I might have missed the response.
Does anybody use stretch wrap to protect their completed pieces? I am
leaving mine in a buddy's hanger but would like to stretch wrap them in an
effort to protect them from the elements and/or critters. Would hate to
unwrap them in a year or two and see them completely destroyed for some
reason. I do remove all of the protective blue film prior to putting them
away. Heard that on a suggestion earlier last summer which makes sense.
Chuck Henry
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 4:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Fly droppings, spiders, gnats, it's all organic. Most but not all soaps are
alkaline in pH and hence help neutralize acidic. However, the "Brainiacs"
would tell you to know your detergents. Hydrogen Embrittlement is the
buzzword. Steel fasteners that are cadmium plated tend to suffer if the
wrong cleaner is used. Hence the development of Simple Green "Aviation
approved".
Water with approved cleaners can go a long way towards remediation. Plastic
sheeting is a great preventative.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 12:36 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
_____
From: Bill Britton <william@gbta.net>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 1:07:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Well, water and a little soap did the trick. Not sure why I didn't ever try
it before but I didn't. Anyway, I hope there's not any acids left that will
cause problems down the road but I will be sure to mention it to whomever
ends up painting the plane. Rest assured, I will not let it happen again.
By the way I did consider the wet towel. It was my next move if the warm
water didn't work.
Now, as long as one of you brainiacs doesn't tell me that dawn dish soap
eats aluminum, I feel better.
Thanks again,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox <mailto:johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 12:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Organics are best dissolved with the universal solvent - Water. On my
fiberglass boat, spiders found the ceiling of the boathouse conducive to
long term residency. A mild solution of Simple Green with copious amounts
of water made a difference.
On vinyl, the problem became more acute. The residue changed the white
vinyl color.
On aluminum, the droppings proved to be Highly Acidic. Anodized parts
seemed to be slightly better protected. The copious water flush can remove
the solids. On a microscopic level (NDT),The acidic crater can lead to
primer and topcoat separation in extreme cases. Alumaprep/Prepsolv is one
course of cleaning. Polishing compound which removes the acids and pitted
metal in the crater is another. Alclad is the substrate we are talking
about. Aluminum oxides rapidly in heat and humid locations along with the
air. All of us should be able to visually determine when the pure aluminum
is gone and we are down to the base metal (with copper alloy). It is also
good to know just how shallow the pure aluminum is on the skin. Lots of
builders scotchbrite away simple abrasions (during the course of a build)
and with it goes the pure oxidized aluminum protection. Months later, the
goal is to prep some more Alclad in the topcoat process which was already
down to minimums.
Cessna had a problem a few years ago with filiform corrosion and little
separation dots all over the upper surfaces of the wings. Turned out the
aircraft were parked overnight during the summer awaiting Topcoat. The
higher acidic rain/dew in the Midwest coupled by flights of insects at
night, left a mark which did not show till years later in the paint. That
all took place with standard preparation procedures not looking for organic
trails.
Your topcoat professional can embrace the needed action to warrant his
craftsmanship. Be sure and mention the issue in writing so as to share the
journey.
For the rest of us, cheap plastic painters tarps can save endless hours of
cleanup and dust abrasion. My heart goes out to you Bill.. good luck.
Good luck.
John Cox - KUAO
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry, Phil
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 10:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fly droppings
Hey Bill,
I was the one who asked about it etching. This is what I'd try.
Get a bath towel that is completely drenched in water and lay it on the
surface for a couple of hours. That'll let it soak without making a mess of
your plane or your floor. Then see if that soaking will soften it up enough
to wipe off.
Sounds like we need to be using fly poop instead of flox! :)
Phil
_____
From: Bill Britton [mailto:william@gbta.net]
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fly droppings
Yeah, I know. It's a little embarrassing that I let it happen, but I did.
I've tried the MEK and that didn't do it. I guess I haven't tried just warm
water and soap (not sure why--probably the same part of my brain that let it
happen in the first place). Somebody asked if it etched the aluminum, I'm
not sure but it's pretty damn hard to get rid of!!! I'll try the water/soap
(however, I have my doubts) and see what happens.
While on the subject, I've thought about using shrink wrap on my finished
parts before but have never tried it. Anybody got any input on doing this.
Not sure if it would make the interior air tight or not (moisture wise--good
or bad).
Thanks for the ideas but keep them coming. I don't have any alumaprep.
where's the best place to get a little bit of it???
Bill
On Dec 12, 2008, at 8:10 AM, Bill Britton wrote:
My project sat uncovered in my garage this summer and to say the least, the
flies got to parts of my tailcone/elevators. I cannot seem to find anything
to take the fly droppings off the aluminum short of a 3m grinding wheel. I
haven't sold myself on that idea yet because the whole surface of one of my
elevators is spotted and I don't want to grind the whole thing down for
several reasons.
Does anybody know of a quick easy way to remove fly droppings or is there
such a thing???
Bill
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref=>
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href= <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref=>
"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_____
- 270.9.17/1844 - Release Date: 12/11/2008 8:58 PM
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>http://www.matronics.=======================
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