Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:46 AM - AFS-3500 distance from glare shield (Michael Wellenzohn)
2. 08:31 AM - Re: AFS-3500 distance from glare shield (Ralph E. Capen)
3. 08:59 AM - Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (pascal)
4. 09:41 AM - Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (Jim Berry)
5. 09:41 AM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (John Cumins)
6. 10:02 AM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
7. 10:13 AM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (Rick Sked)
8. 10:20 AM - Re: AFS-3500 distance from glare shield (orchidman)
9. 10:33 AM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (David McNeill)
10. 10:38 AM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (pascal)
11. 10:44 AM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (pascal)
12. 10:57 AM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (linn Walters)
13. 11:03 AM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (Chris)
14. 11:08 AM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (linn Walters)
15. 11:43 AM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (John Gonzalez)
16. 01:08 PM - APRS Installation (Albert Gardner)
17. 02:33 PM - Re: Overhead console (Perry, Phil)
18. 03:03 PM - Re: Overhead console (John Gonzalez)
19. 03:46 PM - Re: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming (Miller John)
20. 06:23 PM - Re: Overhead console (Rick Sked)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | AFS-3500 distance from glare shield |
H,
I am in the final planning stage of my panel and in order to make a precise CAD
drawing I'd like to know what the minimum distance for the AFS-3500 from the
glare shield and the side should be.
Based on the feedback I received I did some changes to the panel. See attached
file.
In case you have also the distances from the glare shield handy required for the
AFS-4500 that would be great as well.
Best
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219961#219961
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v15_208.jpg
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: AFS-3500 distance from glare shield |
At a minimum, you'll need to observe the 3/4" x 3/4" angle that attaches the panel
to the glare shield (or notch it if you find yourself near a curve enabling
slot). I don't think that the 3500 is deep enough that you need to worry about
the glareshield converging in to the box.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>Sent: Dec 18, 2008 10:46 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: AFS-3500 distance from glare shield
>
>
>H,
>I am in the final planning stage of my panel and in order to make a precise CAD
drawing I'd like to know what the minimum distance for the AFS-3500 from the
glare shield and the side should be.
>Based on the feedback I received I did some changes to the panel. See attached
file.
>
>In case you have also the distances from the glare shield handy required for the
AFS-4500 that would be great as well.
>
>Best
>Michael
>
>--------
>RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>#511
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219961#219961
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/ynn_v15_208.jpg
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
From: pascal
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM
Subject: canopy top smoothing/priming
Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy top
as well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a "smoother"
than requires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I am trying to
avoid doing the multiple layers.
Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I
gather based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont
get it all, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some
balloons before spraying filler needed? anything else I should be
considering?
Thanks!
Pascal
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
Pascal,
On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-time, I used PPG
acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applied with a 3" Shur-line roller(
about $1.50 ea from Home Depot; get several). Apply the first coat with
moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin holes. By the time you finish
the first coat you can go back to your starting point and apply another coat.
You want 3-4 coats total. The roller will start to disintegrate and leave little
pieces of foam in the primer, which is no problem as you will be sanding
almost all of the primer off. Let the primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your
shop temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel, bits of roller foam, etc.
Spray a final coat of primer, and you are done. I think I wound up with 6
pin holes that had to be filled individually. I also used this method on all other
composite pieces.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
Pascal
There is a product that is designed for just that I will try and look it up
and send it to you . It is not a filler primer but a filler then you pay
the primer on top of that.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
From: pascal <mailto:pascalreid@msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM
Subject: canopy top smoothing/priming
Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy top as
well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a "smoother" than
requires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I am trying to avoid
doing the multiple layers.
Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I
gather based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont get it
all, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some balloons
before spraying filler needed? anything else I should be considering?
Thanks!
Pascal
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
Pascal,
You left out a critical part of the name below. It's actually called UV
Smooth Prime and also acts as a UV blocker for composite parts which is cri
tical. UV WILL breakdown our composites eventually making them brittle. W
hatever you use make sure it has a UV inhibitor in it or you put it on thic
k enough to have enough solids to do the job.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
From: pascal<mailto:pascalreid@msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM
Subject: canopy top smoothing/priming
Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy top as
well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a "smoother" than r
equires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I am trying to avoid do
ing the multiple layers.
Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I gath
er based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont get it al
l, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some balloons befor
e spraying filler needed? anything else I should be considering?
Thanks!
Pascal
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
Having filled way too many glass parts now and before I find one of the biggest
time saving steps is to clean the part with soap and water, wipe clean with acetone,
sand any gloss off the surface, clean with acetone again then apply epoxy
resin to the entire surface using a playing card, they are abundunt here in
Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer) to press the epoxy into all
the pinholes, scrape the entire surface with the cards. Once it is cured sand
the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any of the high fill epoxy primers, use the
same brand as the top coat you are planning to use, sprayed then sanded almost
all the way off will start the process. I don't recommend rolling/brushing
because the first coats should be almost sanded away, rolling applies more than
you need and the epoxy process seals and fills the pinholes so minimal primer
is usually needed. Once the pinholes have disappeared fill any exposed weave
and imperfections with micro/epoxy prime and sand until you acheive the smoothness
you desire or just say that's good enough, I quit. It sounds like more work
than it is but that's the process that has worked well for me. There is no
looks great with minimal work method I have found, sanding-priming-sanding-priming
always made for the best prep. This works well on the pants, cowl, doors,
top, all the parts.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Pascal,
On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-time, I used PPG
acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applied with a 3" Shur-line roller(
about $1.50 ea from Home Depot; get several). Apply the first coat with
moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin holes. By the time you finish
the first coat you can go back to your starting point and apply another coat.
You want 3-4 coats total. The roller will start to disintegrate and leave little
pieces of foam in the primer, which is no problem as you will be sanding
almost all of the primer off. Let the primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your
shop temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel, bits of roller foam, etc.
Spray a final coat of primer, and you are done. I think I wound up with 6
pin holes that had to be filled individually. I also used this method on all other
composite pieces.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: AFS-3500 distance from glare shield |
I have a 4500 on the left side and a 3500 on the right side. If you can handle
a Corel Draw file, I can send mine to you. I used it to design and then cut
the panel.
Just looking at your jpg file, I would say that the right side needs to be moved
down about an inch. The main reason is how much you need to chop the rib above.
If you are going for a 4500 on the left, then I think you need to move your
3 back up round instruments and move the 4500 down similar to the right side.
I did have to cut an extra 1/4" from the rib for the 4500 as the top of the
case appears to sit a little higher.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Engine, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219988#219988
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
spread and spray by Sherman Williams is the primer/filler used by Piper and
their fiberglass starts pretty rough (about like Vans).
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
From: pascal <mailto:pascalreid@msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM
Subject: canopy top smoothing/priming
Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy top as
well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a "smoother" than
requires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I am trying to avoid
doing the multiple layers.
Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I
gather based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont get it
all, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some balloons
before spraying filler needed? anything else I should be considering?
Thanks!
Pascal
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
Good point, I'll be using a paint that has the UV protection in it, Same
one used for corvettes and such.
Thanks for pointing that out.
Pascal
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
Pascal,
You left out a critical part of the name below. It's actually called
UV Smooth Prime and also acts as a UV blocker for composite parts which
is critical. UV WILL breakdown our composites eventually making them
brittle. Whatever you use make sure it has a UV inhibitor in it or you
put it on thick enough to have enough solids to do the job.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of pascal
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
From: pascal
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM
Subject: canopy top smoothing/priming
Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy top
as well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a "smoother"
than requires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I am trying to
avoid doing the multiple layers.
Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I
gather based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont
get it all, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some
balloons before spraying filler needed? anything else I should be
considering?
Thanks!
Pascal
http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
Rick and all that responded, thank you for the guidance with this. I had an
idea and your feedback has allowed me to use my brain cells to think about
something else now.
Thanks all!
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Rick Sked" <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
>
>
> Having filled way too many glass parts now and before I find one of the
> biggest time saving steps is to clean the part with soap and water, wipe
> clean with acetone, sand any gloss off the surface, clean with acetone
> again then apply epoxy resin to the entire surface using a playing card,
> they are abundunt here in Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer)
> to press the epoxy into all the pinholes, scrape the entire surface with
> the cards. Once it is cured sand the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any
> of the high fill epoxy primers, use the same brand as the top coat you are
> planning to use, sprayed then sanded almost all the way off will start the
> process. I don't recommend rolling/brushing because the first coats should
> be almost sanded away, rolling applies more than you need and the epoxy
> process seals and fills the pinholes so minimal primer is usually needed.
> Once the pinholes have disappeared fill any exposed weave and
> imperfections with micro/epoxy prime and sand u!
> ntil you acheive the smoothness you desire or just say that's good enough,
> I quit. It sounds like more work than it is but that's the process that
> has worked well for me. There is no looks great with minimal work method I
> have found, sanding-priming-sanding-priming always made for the best prep.
> This works well on the pants, cowl, doors, top, all the parts.
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800)
> America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
>
>
> Pascal,
>
> On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-time, I used
> PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applied with a 3"
> Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home Depot; get several). Apply the
> first coat with moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin holes.
> By the time you finish the first coat you can go back to your starting
> point and apply another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The roller will
> start to disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the primer, which
> is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the primer off. Let the
> primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your shop temperature. Block sand
> to remove orange peel, bits of roller foam, etc. Spray a final coat of
> primer, and you are done. I think I wound up with 6 pin holes that had to
> be filled individually. I also used this method on all other composite
> pieces.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
pascal wrote:
>
>
> *From:* pascal <mailto:pascalreid@msn.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 18, 2008 8:57 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Subject:* canopy top smoothing/priming
>
> Looking for a good way to smooth (aka fill pin holes) on the canopy
> top as well as prime. I know there is Smooth Prime but that is a
> "smoother" than requires another coat of actual primer. Many reasons I
> am trying to avoid doing the multiple layers.
If you really want it to come out nice, you need the multiple layers
..... you'll be sanding most all of it off, but it really needs to be done.
> Also any suggestions for how I should go about doing the canopy top. I
> gather based on my review of the top that laying a filler primer wont
> get it all, is the idea to do a coat of .5/.5 acetone/epoxy with some
> balloons before spraying filler needed? anything else I should be
> considering?
I wouldn't do the epoxy route because it won't be smoother than the top
is now, and you do not want to trap air in the pinholes .... the chances
of them creating bubbles down the road is high. Sanding out the Smooth
Prime is much easier than sanding the epoxy.
It's a lot of work and it's messy (dusty) but the Smooth Prime is my
choice, followed by a urethane primer for the paint to adhere to.
Linn
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
> *
>
> *
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
Van's and Loehle aviation were raving about the Loehle product called
Wonderfil to take care of the pinholes, there was an article in the latest
RVator. I plan to try it.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "pascal" <pascal@rv10builder.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
>
> Rick and all that responded, thank you for the guidance with this. I had
> an idea and your feedback has allowed me to use my brain cells to think
> about something else now.
> Thanks all!
> Pascal
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Rick Sked" <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:12 AM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
>
>>
>>
>> Having filled way too many glass parts now and before I find one of the
>> biggest time saving steps is to clean the part with soap and water, wipe
>> clean with acetone, sand any gloss off the surface, clean with acetone
>> again then apply epoxy resin to the entire surface using a playing card,
>> they are abundunt here in Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer)
>> to press the epoxy into all the pinholes, scrape the entire surface with
>> the cards. Once it is cured sand the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any
>> of the high fill epoxy primers, use the same brand as the top coat you
>> are planning to use, sprayed then sanded almost all the way off will
>> start the process. I don't recommend rolling/brushing because the first
>> coats should be almost sanded away, rolling applies more than you need
>> and the epoxy process seals and fills the pinholes so minimal primer is
>> usually needed. Once the pinholes have disappeared fill any exposed weave
>> and imperfections with micro/epoxy prime and sand u!
>> ntil you acheive the smoothness you desire or just say that's good
>> enough, I quit. It sounds like more work than it is but that's the
>> process that has worked well for me. There is no looks great with minimal
>> work method I have found, sanding-priming-sanding-priming always made for
>> the best prep. This works well on the pants, cowl, doors, top, all the
>> parts.
>>
>> Rick Sked
>> 40185
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800)
>> America/Los_Angeles
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
>>
>>
>> Pascal,
>>
>> On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-time, I
>> used PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applied with a
>> 3" Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home Depot; get several). Apply
>> the first coat with moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin
>> holes. By the time you finish the first coat you can go back to your
>> starting point and apply another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The
>> roller will start to disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the
>> primer, which is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the
>> primer off. Let the primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your shop
>> temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel, bits of roller foam, etc.
>> Spray a final coat of primer, and you are done. I think I wound up with 6
>> pin holes that had to be filled individually. I also used this method on
>> all other composite pieces.
>>
>> Jim Berry
>> 40482
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
I agree with almost all Rick says here ..... but instead of the epoxy,
use the card to apply the first one (or maybe two) coat of _UV_ Smooth
Prime (thanks Michael for the reminder) and roll the subsequent layers.
That epoxy gets hard and I'm a little on the lazy side!!! You can also
lightly (really lightly, like a mist) spray black paint on top of the UV
Smooth Prime which will really highlight the highs and lows when you
start to sand. Alternate with another dark color (such as blue) between
successive coats.
Linn_
_Rick Sked wrote:
>
>
> Having filled way too many glass parts now and before I find one of the biggest
time saving steps is to clean the part with soap and water, wipe clean with
acetone, sand any gloss off the surface, clean with acetone again then apply
epoxy resin to the entire surface using a playing card, they are abundunt here
in Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer) to press the epoxy into all
the pinholes, scrape the entire surface with the cards. Once it is cured sand
the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any of the high fill epoxy primers, use
the same brand as the top coat you are planning to use, sprayed then sanded almost
all the way off will start the process. I don't recommend rolling/brushing
because the first coats should be almost sanded away, rolling applies more than
you need and the epoxy process seals and fills the pinholes so minimal primer
is usually needed. Once the pinholes have disappeared fill any exposed weave
and imperfections with micro/epoxy prime and sand u!
> ntil you acheive the smoothness you desire or just say that's good enough, I
quit. It sounds like more work than it is but that's the process that has worked
well for me. There is no looks great with minimal work method I have found,
sanding-priming-sanding-priming always made for the best prep. This works well
on the pants, cowl, doors, top, all the parts.
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
>
>
> Pascal,
>
> On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-time, I used PPG
acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applied with a 3" Shur-line
roller( about $1.50 ea from Home Depot; get several). Apply the first coat with
moderate pressure to work the primer into the pin holes. By the time you finish
the first coat you can go back to your starting point and apply another coat.
You want 3-4 coats total. The roller will start to disintegrate and leave
little pieces of foam in the primer, which is no problem as you will be sanding
almost all of the primer off. Let the primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on
your shop temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel, bits of roller foam,
etc. Spray a final coat of primer, and you are done. I think I wound up with
6 pin holes that had to be filled individually. I also used this method on all
other composite pieces.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
Linn hit the nail on the head. You need atleast two different colors so tha
t you can see the highs and lows when profiling the top.
John> Date: Thu=2C 18 Dec 2008 14:05:34 -0500> From: pitts_pilot@bellsouth.
net> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top sm
ot@bellsouth.net>> > I agree with almost all Rick says here ..... but inste
ad of the epoxy=2C > use the card to apply the first one (or maybe two) coa
t of _UV_ Smooth > Prime (thanks Michael for the reminder) and roll the sub
sequent layers. > That epoxy gets hard and I'm a little on the lazy side!!!
You can also > lightly (really lightly=2C like a mist) spray black paint o
n top of the UV > Smooth Prime which will really highlight the highs and lo
ws when you > start to sand. Alternate with another dark color (such as blu
e) between > successive coats.> Linn_> > _Rick Sked wrote:> > --> RV10-List
message posted by: Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com>> >> >> > Having fil
led way too many glass parts now and before I find one of the biggest time
saving steps is to clean the part with soap and water=2C wipe clean with ac
etone=2C sand any gloss off the surface=2C clean with acetone again then ap
ply epoxy resin to the entire surface using a playing card=2C they are abun
dunt here in Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer) to press the e
poxy into all the pinholes=2C scrape the entire surface with the cards. Onc
e it is cured sand the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any of the high fill
epoxy primers=2C use the same brand as the top coat you are planning to us
e=2C sprayed then sanded almost all the way off will start the process. I d
on't recommend rolling/brushing because the first coats should be almost sa
nded away=2C rolling applies more than you need and the epoxy process seals
and fills the pinholes so minimal primer is usually needed. Once the pinho
les have disappeared fill any exposed weave and imperfections with micro/ep
oxy prime and sand!> u!> > ntil you acheive the smoothness you desire or ju
st say that's good enough=2C I quit. It sounds like more work than it is bu
t that's the process that has worked well for me. There is no looks great w
ith minimal work method I have found=2C sanding-priming-sanding-priming alw
ays made for the best prep. This works well on the pants=2C cowl=2C doors
=2C top=2C all the parts. > >> > Rick Sked> > 40185> > ----- Original Messa
ge -----> > From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>> > To: rv10-list@matroni
cs.com> > Sent: Thursday=2C December 18=2C 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800) Ameri
ca/Los_Angeles> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming> >>
ascal=2C> >> > On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work ful
l-time=2C I used PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst. Applie
d with a 3" Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home Depot=3B get several
). Apply the first coat with moderate pressure to work the primer into the
pin holes. By the time you finish the first coat you can go back to your st
arting point and apply another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The roller w
ill start to disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the primer=2C
which is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the primer off. Le
t the primer cure for 2-3 days=2C depending on your shop temperature. Block
sand to remove orange peel=2C bits of roller foam=2C etc. Spray a final co
at of primer=2C and you are done. I think I wound up with 6 pin holes that
had to be filled individually. I also used this method on all other composi
te pieces.> >> > Jim Berry> > 40482> >> >> >> >> > Read this topic online h
ere:> >> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977> >>
========================> _
=========> > >
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | APRS Installation |
I put mine in the wingtip also. Powered from the Nav lights as it was
convenient and controllable without running an extra circuit. Figured
I'd
always want it on at night. I used the MicroTrak 8000FA from Byonics.com
and
it works good. GPS antenna is RTV'd into the wingtip trailing edge and
the
transmitter was fitted into a piece of AL bent up at the ends. The DB9
connector was bolted onto one end and the coax supports the other end
through a grommet. I used the access cover kit that Van's supplies for
the
stall warning switch and put a BNC bulkhead connector on the cover with
the
2 meter rubber duck antenna mounted there. With the cover removed,
enough of
the DB9 connecter is exposed so you can change programming without
removing
the unit from the wing although it is only held on by 2 screws one of
which
is a cover screw.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Overhead console |
Is Zolatone a roll on??
________________________________
From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 9:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead console
Charcoal Zolatone and I have Stein's LEDs in six location on the
overhead and that is what the buttons are for.
The nice thing about Zolatone is that it looks great and it saves time
in prep because you don't need to make the fiberglass sooooo smooth.
Seem lines blend in. I also made this removable with ten screws that
anchor into brass screw receivers. It covers the screws on the fuse that
hold down the hinge, makes a little cleaner look.
Thanks
JOhn
________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead console
From: Phil.Perry@netapp.com
John,
Looks great!
What did you cover it with and what are the red buttons for?
Phil
________________________________
From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 12:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead console
And the final product...foam and fiberglass is fun!!!
JOhn G. 409 Do Not Archive
> From: toaster73@embarqmail.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Overhead console
> Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 20:22:52 -0500
>
> Just to reiterate "you can" do this yourself . If you can do all the
> fiberglass work on the 10 you can make a console. I used blue foam and
> molded the console in place, glassed it in place and then released it
to get
> the blue foam out, finally epoxied back on for good. Just takes time
and the
> will to do it.
> -Chris Lucas
> #40072
>
> do not archive
tronics.com/contribution
/www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
.com
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Overhead console |
You spray it on with a spray gun with a very large tip. Their web site spel
ls out which guns and tips work.
The reason is that it is very thick material with seperated texture peices
than get stuck in guns with narrower tips.
Fiberglass substrates require no primer=2C but the alluminum and the ferrou
s metal require a specail primer for the Zolatone. It is not the most refin
ed looking materail=2C but its simplicity expresses a different look. Best
way to discribe it is no frills look=2C like the difference between a trana
tlantic racing sailboat vs. a cruiser for luxury. It works for me.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead consoleDate: Thu=2C 18 Dec 2008 14:30:15 -
0800From: Phil.Perry@netapp.comTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
Is Zolatone a roll on??
From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com] Sent: Wednesday=2C Dece
mber 17=2C 2008 9:04 AMTo: RV 10 groupSubject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead cons
ole
Charcoal Zolatone and I have Stein's LEDs in six location on the overhead a
nd that is what the buttons are for.
The nice thing about Zolatone is that it looks great and it saves time in p
rep because you don't need to make the fiberglass sooooo smooth. Seem lines
blend in. I also made this removable with ten screws that anchor into bras
s screw receivers. It covers the screws on the fuse that hold down the hing
e=2C makes a little cleaner look.
Thanks
JOhn
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead consoleDate: Wed=2C 17 Dec 2008 04:07:59 -
0800From: Phil.Perry@netapp.comTo: rv10-list@matronics.com
John=2C
Looks great!
What did you cover it with and what are the red buttons for?
Phil
From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com] Sent: Wednesday=2C Dece
mber 17=2C 2008 12:57 AMTo: RV 10 groupSubject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead con
sole
And the final product...foam and fiberglass is fun!!!
JOhn G. 409 Do Not Archive> From: toaster73@embarqmail.com> To: rv10-list@m
atronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Overhead console> Date: Tue=2C 16 Dec
2008 20:22:52 -0500> > Just to reiterate "you can" do this yourself . If y
ou can do all the > fiberglass work on the 10 you can make a console. I use
d blue foam and > molded the console in place=2C glassed it in place and th
en released it to get > the blue foam out=2C finally epoxied back on for go
od. Just takes time and the > will to do it.> -Chris Lucas> #40072> > do no
t archive
tronics.com/contribution
/www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr
ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy top smoothing/priming |
That was my RV 10 in the picture, and I can personally attest to the
superb qualities of Mike Loehle's products!
Grumpy N184JM
On Dec 18, 2008, at 1:02 PM, Chris wrote:
>
> Van's and Loehle aviation were raving about the Loehle product
> called Wonderfil to take care of the pinholes, there was an article
> in the latest RVator. I plan to try it.
> -Chris Lucas
> #40072
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "pascal" <pascal@rv10builder.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 1:44 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
>
>
>>
>> Rick and all that responded, thank you for the guidance with this.
>> I had an idea and your feedback has allowed me to use my brain
>> cells to think about something else now.
>> Thanks all!
>> Pascal
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Rick Sked" <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 10:12 AM
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Having filled way too many glass parts now and before I find one
>>> of the biggest time saving steps is to clean the part with soap
>>> and water, wipe clean with acetone, sand any gloss off the
>>> surface, clean with acetone again then apply epoxy resin to the
>>> entire surface using a playing card, they are abundunt here in
>>> Vegas :) or old credit cards (they last longer) to press the epoxy
>>> into all the pinholes, scrape the entire surface with the cards.
>>> Once it is cured sand the rmove the gloss and fuzz. Apply any of
>>> the high fill epoxy primers, use the same brand as the top coat
>>> you are planning to use, sprayed then sanded almost all the way
>>> off will start the process. I don't recommend rolling/brushing
>>> because the first coats should be almost sanded away, rolling
>>> applies more than you need and the epoxy process seals and fills
>>> the pinholes so minimal primer is usually needed. Once the
>>> pinholes have disappeared fill any exposed weave and imperfections
>>> with micro/epoxy prime and sand u!
>>> ntil you acheive the smoothness you desire or just say that's good
>>> enough, I quit. It sounds like more work than it is but that's the
>>> process that has worked well for me. There is no looks great with
>>> minimal work method I have found, sanding-priming-sanding-priming
>>> always made for the best prep. This works well on the pants, cowl,
>>> doors, top, all the parts.
>>>
>>> Rick Sked
>>> 40185
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 9:40:31 AM (GMT-0800) America/
>>> Los_Angeles
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: canopy top smoothing/priming
>>>
>>>
>>> Pascal,
>>>
>>> On the recommendation of a buddy who does composite work full-
>>> time, I used PPG acrylic urethane primer K36 with K201 catalyst.
>>> Applied with a 3" Shur-line roller( about $1.50 ea from Home
>>> Depot; get several). Apply the first coat with moderate pressure
>>> to work the primer into the pin holes. By the time you finish the
>>> first coat you can go back to your starting point and apply
>>> another coat. You want 3-4 coats total. The roller will start to
>>> disintegrate and leave little pieces of foam in the primer, which
>>> is no problem as you will be sanding almost all of the primer off.
>>> Let the primer cure for 2-3 days, depending on your shop
>>> temperature. Block sand to remove orange peel, bits of roller
>>> foam, etc. Spray a final coat of primer, and you are done. I think
>>> I wound up with 6 pin holes that had to be filled individually. I
>>> also used this method on all other composite pieces.
>>>
>>> Jim Berry
>>> 40482
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219977#219977
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Overhead console |
I guess it needs a bit tip...2.0 to 2.3 mm....that's a hose!!=C2- I'm rea
lly tempted to try this stuff..it looks great. John, do you order direct or
do you have to use a distributer?
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 3:02:49 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead console
You spray it on with a spray gun with a very large tip. Their web site spel
ls out which guns and tips work.
=C2-
The reason is that it is very thick material with seperated texture peices
than get stuck in guns with narrower tips.
=C2-
Fiberglass substrates require no primer, but the alluminum and the ferrous
metal require a specail primer for the Zolatone. It is not the most refined
looking materail, but its simplicity expresses a different look. Best way
to discribe it is no frills look, like the difference between a tranatlanti
c racing sailboat vs. a cruiser for luxury. It works for me.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead console
From: Phil.Perry@netapp.com
Is Zolatone a roll on??
From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 9:04 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead console
Charcoal Zolatone and I have Stein's LEDs in six location on the overhead a
nd that is what the buttons are for.=C2-
The nice thing about Zolatone is that it looks great and it saves time in p
rep because you don't need to make the fiberglass sooooo smooth. Seem lines
blend in. I also made this removable with ten screws that anchor into bras
s screw receivers. It covers the screws on the fuse that hold down the hing
e, makes a little cleaner look.
Thanks
JOhn
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead console
From: Phil.Perry@netapp.com
John,
Looks great!
What did you cover it with and what are the red buttons for?
Phil
From: John Gonzalez [mailto:indigoonlatigo@msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 12:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead console
And the final product...foam and fiberglass is fun!!!
JOhn G. 409 Do Not Archive
> From: toaster73@embarqmail.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Overhead console
> Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 20:22:52 -0500
>
> Just to reiterate "you can" do this yourself . If you can do all the
> fiberglass work on the 10 you can make a console. I used blue foam and
> molded the console in place, glassed it in place and then released it to
get
> the blue foam out, finally epoxied back on for good. Just takes time and
the
> will to do it.
> -Chris Lucas
> #40072
>
> do not archive
tronics.com/contribution /www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List .com href
="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matr
onics.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
=================
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|