RV10-List Digest Archive

Sun 12/21/08


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 10:26 AM - Painting aircraft on the Science channel (John Cox)
     2. 12:24 PM - Re: Painting aircraft on the Science channel (Bob Leffler)
     3. 04:25 PM - Re: HS attach bracket issue (tsts4)
     4. 07:36 PM - Front Wheel Axle Spacers - A Permanent Fix (David Hertner)
     5. 10:32 PM - Re: HS attach bracket issue (John Cumins)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 10:26:38 AM PST US
    Subject: Painting aircraft on the Science channel
    From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
    Today Sunday at 5PM EST, tomorrow Monday at 4PM EST and on Christmas day at 1:30PM EST there is a special called "How It's Made" which features the aircraft painting process. A few of us might learn something new on the Science Channel from Aerosmith Aviation. it is episode #16. John Cox #600


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:24:11 PM PST US
    From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
    Subject: Painting aircraft on the Science channel
    It was on a couple days ago too. They spent most of the time on the chemical stripping process and a little time on filling misc patches. The whole segment was only 4-5 minutes. Not very detailed. From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2008 1:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Painting aircraft on the Science channel Today Sunday at 5PM EST, tomorrow Monday at 4PM EST and on Christmas day at 1:30PM EST there is a special called "How It's Made" which features the aircraft painting process. A few of us might learn something new on the Science Channel from Aerosmith Aviation. it is episode #16. John Cox #600


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:25:21 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: HS attach bracket issue
    From: "tsts4" <tsts4@verizon.net>
    Another option would be to shim it back to level. When you attach the HS to the tailcone, two 1/8 shims get match drilled and placed under each bracket anyway. So adding a 3rd, thin one to the stack shouldn't be a problem. -------- Todd Stovall 728TT (reserved) RV-10 Empacone Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220461#220461


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:36:01 PM PST US
    From: David Hertner <effectus@rogers.com>
    Subject: Front Wheel Axle Spacers - A Permanent Fix
    Hi Everyone, I want to share with you the permanent fix that I have come up with for the front axle spacer problems we have been having lately. We have seen everything from gouging of outer yokes to the bearing spinning on the axle due to the loss of bearing pre-load. I decided to take a real close look at the system to see what the root problem is and I found that the spacers provided with the kit, both the steel ones delivered with the kit initially and the aluminum ones sent out as a fix do not interface with the bearing properly. This is due to two issues. The first is that the mating surface on the bearing for the spacer is curved. I contacted Timken Bearing and they sent me the dimensioned cross section of that bearing which showed that the curved mating surface was a compound curve that melded two radii. This is not an easy surface to mate to. The second issue was that of the wall thickness of the aluminum spacers set out by Van's to replace the initial steel ones. The wall thickness of these aluminum spacers is .250in. The mating surface of the bearing is approx. .187in. This is the steel contact area inside of the rubber bearing seal. This meant that the spacer was pre-loading on the rubber bearing seal instead of the steel portion of the bearing. In many cases this has resulted in the loss of the pre-load as the rubber deteriorates. Consequently, there were bearings spinning, yokes being gouged and loose wheels which add to bearing wear and shimmy. I initially thought that I would take the same approach as Ross Farnham and machine profiles on the end of new steel spacers so that the interface between them and the bearing was close to identical. I called Ross and talked it over with him and he said that if he had more time to put into it he would have made one of the spacers adjustable. I asked him if I could run with that and he agreed it would be the best fix. So, what I have been able to design is a system where there is a perfect interface between the spacers and the bearings by utilizing the Timken specifications and the accuracy of CNC machining. I have also been able to design a robust and accurate adjustment mechanism into one of the spacers so that the pre-load can be adjusted without having to take the wheel apart. Integrated into the spacer design are notches that accept the heads of 10-24 socket-head cap screws installed on the inner face of the yoke. These restrict the spacers from being able to spin on the axle. As well, you will now be able to accurately torque the front wheel bolt because it no longer has any relationship to the pre-load of the bearings. The screw adjustment ring is locked in place by two 1/4-20 socket-head cap screws that have drilled heads so they can be safety wired. All of these new components including the hardware is made from stainless steel for durability and corrosion resistance. I just finished installing a set in my front wheel assembly and it goes together and adjusts very easily. I will be offering these for sale through Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Tools. The kits will include all hardware instructions and the drill guide used to locate the anti-rotation screws. You can go to my Blog site and read about these and see pictures of the RV-10 as well as the RV6/7/8/9 components. It is located at the following address: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com I feel as though I have now installed a permanent fix to this problem and I hope that if you are interested in the kit I have put together you will go and visit the Cleaveland Tools site. The first 10 production kits of each variant will be available sometime in mid January but please leave your name with them if you are interested so we can get a handle on how many are going to be required. Many thanks for reading this long post. Dave Hertner RV-10 Builder #10164 Effectus AeroProducts Inc.


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:32:23 PM PST US
    Subject: HS attach bracket issue
    From: John Cumins <jcumins@jcis.net>
    Rene I did just that this afternoon and it looks like i am good to go. Bracket is re-rivited and parralel to the other. thanks so much On Sat 20/12/08 8:50 PM , "Rene" rene@felker.com sent: Just an Idea, but since it looks like they were parallel when you drilled them, just drill out the rivets..clamp them down and re-rivet. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- FROM: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] ON BEHALF OF jcumins@jcis.net SENT: Saturday, December 20, 2008 9:26 PM TO: rv10-list@matronics.com SUBJECT: RV10-List: HS attach bracket issue Well all you rv10 buikders out there. Looks like i finally mide my first big boo boo. And I will call Vans Monday morning. When i final drilled the left and rt horv. stab fwd spar attach brackets i made sure to clamp both of them to a piece of angle stock so that they were final drilled parrallel to each other. Well when i went to rivit them on today all looked well and i did not think to reclamp them to a piece of angle stock. Now here comes the probelm. The Left bracket is about 1/32 of a inch oft of parallel to the other. When i clap the angle stock to the rt bracket it contacts the inboard edge of the left bracket like it should. When i clamp the angle stock to the left bracket it misses the rt bracket by a bunch. so this telles me the left bracket is not parallel. I do think that it probable should be fixed, to prevent a twisting force on the bracket, rivits and HS fwd spar. My question is can i just shave a very small amount off the inboard side of the left bracket bottom to get them back parallel, would this be a ok repair or should i make new bracket and redo it. I do think i will order the material to make a new on or order one already made from the company that makes them on a cnc machine. Boy was this very upsetting to find when i was finished with the front spar. Word of advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks. John Horz Stab build mode SN 40864 Links: ------ [1] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION [2] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST [3] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://FORUMS.MATRONICS.COM [4] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/CONTRIBUTION [5] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://WWW.MATRONICS.COM/NAVIGATOR?RV10-LIST [6] http://mail.jcis.net/HTTP://FORUMS.MATRONICS.COM/




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