Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:22 AM - Unexpected Workshop Contingency - Garage builders beware (Patrick ONeill)
2. 03:38 AM - Re: Re: Should I dimple the wing ribs? ()
3. 04:17 AM - Question about fuel sender float (rleffler)
4. 04:17 AM - Re: Should I dimple the wing ribs? (PJ Seipel)
5. 04:37 AM - Re: Question about fuel sender float (Ralph E. Capen)
6. 04:56 AM - Re: Question about fuel sender float (Dave Leikam)
7. 06:04 AM - Re: Question about fuel sender float (John Gonzalez)
8. 06:49 AM - Re: Question about fuel sender float (Ben Westfall)
9. 07:35 AM - Re: Re: Question about fuel sender float ()
10. 08:42 AM - Re: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV (Bill and Tami Britton)
11. 09:36 AM - Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge (Jim Berry)
12. 09:50 AM - Re: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge (Deems Davis)
13. 09:56 AM - Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge (John Hilger)
14. 11:04 AM - Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge (Jim Berry)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Unexpected Workshop Contingency - Garage builders beware |
I had an unexpected wrinkle crop up in my building process and I figured I'd
pass it on in case it saves anyone else some headaches.
I've been building my project in my garage and things were great until about
a few weeks ago. I went to the garage for some much anticipated RV-10
building and much to my dismay; the garage door opener wouldn't open the
garage.
After some research I realized one of the garage door springs had failed and
I needed to replace the springs.
The problem was that my normal building process at this stage was to densely
pack the garage when not working on the plane, and to open the garage door
to move idle things out of the way when engaged in building.
Unfortunately, I hadn't considered the consequences of failed door springs
and the fuselage and wings were blocking access to the springs for
replacement. With the door inop and the garage tightly packed, rearranging
the garage to accommodate this was problematic to say the least.
So to those fellow builders with a small densely packaged garage such as my
own, you might want to give some thought where you position the major
sections of your RV-10 in relation to the garage door mechanisms before
closing that garage door.
Hopefully no one else has to go through what I just did! It wasn't fun.
Patrick #40715
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Should I dimple the wing ribs? |
Ben raises a good point. Read ahead to the bottom skin pages. I went ahead and
matched drilled those pieces as well. Then go ahead and dimple all of them
with your DRDT-2. You then don't need to worry about the bottom of your ribs
later.
I did this because I wanted to prime after match drilling and dimpling both sides
of the ribs to ensure everything got covered.
bob
>
> From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
> Date: 2008/12/24 Wed AM 01:16:43 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Should I dimple the wing ribs?
>
> It goes quick, dimpling with the squeezer. I think I recall doing it that
> way because you don't match drill the bottom skins till after the top skins
> have been riveted. I'm guessing the reason they don't have you dimple the
> top sides is because of confusion. I know I'd end up dimpling the wrong
> side of about half the darn ribs if I did them loose.
>
>
>
> -Ben
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> jdalton77@comcast.net
> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 9:08 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Should I dimple the wing ribs?
>
>
>
> Marcus,
>
>
>
> Thanks, It was a proud moment - sort of like having another child (but being
> much too old!).
>
>
>
> I should have been more clear. The reason I'm a little confused is that I
> think the instructions have me riveting the ribs to the spar now. If I
> rivet them first, then I'll have to dimple all of the rib holds with a
> squeezer, instead of the DDR-2 that I paid 400 bucks for.
>
>
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> Do not Archive
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Question about fuel sender float |
I recently installed the fuel senders in both my tanks. Everything looks good
and the floats clear the stiffeners and fuel vent.
My concern is that the arm of the float rotates due to gravity because of the weight
float at the end of the arm. Once the wings are attached, I wouldn't think
this to be an issue because gravity will keep it in the correct orientation.
In the mean time, with the tanks in the cradle and later in the wing stand
the float will rotate forward in the tank and out of position. My concern is
that the float may get stuck in another position than intended once the tanks
are sealed.
Is this something to be concerned about or will everything work out ok? I'm interested
in hearing about other's experiences.
thanks,
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Wings
RV-10 #40684
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220895#220895
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Should I dimple the wing ribs? |
In general, Van's has you do things in a particular order for a reason.
The reason they have you wait to match drill / dimple until the top
skins are riveted is because even though it's pre-punched, things do
move around a little bit. And it only takes being off a very small
fraction of an inch to end up with oil-canning later. So yes, you can
put the entire wing together to start with, match drill, take it all
apart and dimple, and then rivet it together. If you're lucky then
everything will fit great and you won't have oil canning. If not...
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
rv@thelefflers.com wrote:
>
> Ben raises a good point. Read ahead to the bottom skin pages. I went ahead
and matched drilled those pieces as well. Then go ahead and dimple all of them
with your DRDT-2. You then don't need to worry about the bottom of your ribs
later.
>
> I did this because I wanted to prime after match drilling and dimpling both sides
of the ribs to ensure everything got covered.
>
> bob
>
>
>> From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
>> Date: 2008/12/24 Wed AM 01:16:43 EST
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Should I dimple the wing ribs?
>>
>> It goes quick, dimpling with the squeezer. I think I recall doing it that
>> way because you don't match drill the bottom skins till after the top skins
>> have been riveted. I'm guessing the reason they don't have you dimple the
>> top sides is because of confusion. I know I'd end up dimpling the wrong
>> side of about half the darn ribs if I did them loose.
>>
>>
>>
>> -Ben
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _____
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> jdalton77@comcast.net
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 9:08 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Should I dimple the wing ribs?
>>
>>
>>
>> Marcus,
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks, It was a proud moment - sort of like having another child (but being
>> much too old!).
>>
>>
>>
>> I should have been more clear. The reason I'm a little confused is that I
>> think the instructions have me riveting the ribs to the spar now. If I
>> rivet them first, then I'll have to dimple all of the rib holds with a
>> squeezer, instead of the DDR-2 that I paid 400 bucks for.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>>
>>
>> Do not Archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Question about fuel sender float |
If the arm can rotate, it's not installed completely/correctly. The sender-end
of the arm should have a bend in it that goes through the sender attach point
where the sender rotates to change the value.
Unless they've changed senders......
-----Original Message-----
>From: rleffler <rvmail@thelefflers.com>
>Sent: Dec 24, 2008 7:16 AM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float
>
>
>I recently installed the fuel senders in both my tanks. Everything looks good
and the floats clear the stiffeners and fuel vent.
>
>My concern is that the arm of the float rotates due to gravity because of the
weight float at the end of the arm. Once the wings are attached, I wouldn't
think this to be an issue because gravity will keep it in the correct orientation.
In the mean time, with the tanks in the cradle and later in the wing stand
the float will rotate forward in the tank and out of position. My concern
is that the float may get stuck in another position than intended once the tanks
are sealed.
>
>Is this something to be concerned about or will everything work out ok? I'm interested
in hearing about other's experiences.
>
>thanks,
>
>bob
>
>--------
>Bob Leffler
>N410BL - Wings
>RV-10 #40684
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220895#220895
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Question about fuel sender float |
Bob,
There is a small "L" bend at the end of the float wire opposite the float
which prevents the wire from rotating. The bend goes into a hole at the
base of the plastic bracket that holds the wire at the rotation point.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "rleffler" <rvmail@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 6:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float
>
> I recently installed the fuel senders in both my tanks. Everything looks
> good and the floats clear the stiffeners and fuel vent.
>
> My concern is that the arm of the float rotates due to gravity because of
> the weight float at the end of the arm. Once the wings are attached, I
> wouldn't think this to be an issue because gravity will keep it in the
> correct orientation. In the mean time, with the tanks in the cradle and
> later in the wing stand the float will rotate forward in the tank and out
> of position. My concern is that the float may get stuck in another
> position than intended once the tanks are sealed.
>
> Is this something to be concerned about or will everything work out ok?
> I'm interested in hearing about other's experiences.
>
> thanks,
>
> bob
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Wings
> RV-10 #40684
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220895#220895
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Question about fuel sender float |
Ditto=2C the direction where not very clear and this is critical.> From: da
veleikam@wi.rr.com> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Qu
estion about fuel sender float> Date: Wed=2C 24 Dec 2008 06:54:50 -0600> >
b=2C> > There is a small "L" bend at the end of the float wire opposite the
float > which prevents the wire from rotating. The bend goes into a hole
at the > base of the plastic bracket that holds the wire at the rotation po
int.> > Dave Leikam> RV-10 #40496> N89DA (Reserved)> Muskego=2C WI> > -----
Original Message ----- > From: "rleffler" <rvmail@thelefflers.com>> To: <r
v10-list@matronics.com>> Sent: Wednesday=2C December 24=2C 2008 6:16 AM> Su
bject: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float> > >> --> RV10-List mess
age posted by: "rleffler" <rvmail@thelefflers.com>>>>> I recently installed
the fuel senders in both my tanks. Everything looks >> good and the floa
ts clear the stiffeners and fuel vent.>>>> My concern is that the arm of th
e float rotates due to gravity because of >> the weight float at the end of
the arm. Once the wings are attached=2C I >> wouldn't think this to be a
n issue because gravity will keep it in the >> correct orientation. In the
mean time=2C with the tanks in the cradle and >> later in the wing stand t
he float will rotate forward in the tank and out >> of position. My concer
n is that the float may get stuck in another >> position than intended once
the tanks are sealed.>>>> Is this something to be concerned about or will
everything work out ok? >> I'm interested in hearing about other's experien
ces.>>>> thanks=2C>>>> bob>>>> -------->> Bob Leffler>> N410BL - Wings>> RV
-10 #40684>>>>>>>>>> Read this topic online here:>>>> http://forums.matroni
========================> _
===============> > >
Message 8
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| Subject: | Question about fuel sender float |
Bob don't worry the new arms are cheap. like a buck or two. Ask me how I
know. Of course shipping and waiting for them isn't.
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 6:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float
Ditto, the direction where not very clear and this is critical.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Question about fuel sender float |
Thanks! I must have missed that step in my rush to get done before leaving for
the holiday.
>
> From: "Dave Leikam" <daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
> Date: 2008/12/24 Wed AM 07:54:50 EST
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float
>
>
> Bob,
>
> There is a small "L" bend at the end of the float wire opposite the float
> which prevents the wire from rotating. The bend goes into a hole at the
> base of the plastic bracket that holds the wire at the rotation point.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10 #40496
> N89DA (Reserved)
> Muskego, WI
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rleffler" <rvmail@thelefflers.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 6:16 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Question about fuel sender float
>
>
> >
> > I recently installed the fuel senders in both my tanks. Everything looks
> > good and the floats clear the stiffeners and fuel vent.
> >
> > My concern is that the arm of the float rotates due to gravity because of
> > the weight float at the end of the arm. Once the wings are attached, I
> > wouldn't think this to be an issue because gravity will keep it in the
> > correct orientation. In the mean time, with the tanks in the cradle and
> > later in the wing stand the float will rotate forward in the tank and out
> > of position. My concern is that the float may get stuck in another
> > position than intended once the tanks are sealed.
> >
> > Is this something to be concerned about or will everything work out ok?
> > I'm interested in hearing about other's experiences.
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> > bob
> >
> > --------
> > Bob Leffler
> > N410BL - Wings
> > RV-10 #40684
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220895#220895
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: DAR Blessed N475PV |
Missed the paint job. Could someone point me to a link that has a picture.
I'd love to see how it looks.
Bill Britton
PS. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone. If you're traveling be
very careful out there!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny Iszak" <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 12:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV
>
> Wow! Love the paint job!
>
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220881#220881
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
11:23 AM
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge |
My way of dealing with the 45 degree door edge was to eliminate it, as I was concerned
that the edge would not hold up well to repeated opening and closing.
I squared off the door edge, then built up the adjoining cabin top edge to match.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220942#220942
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge |
I strongly endorse Jim's suggestion. The doors are one of the most
difficult tasks in the build, and I've yet to see a set that match
anywhere close to the way the alum parts do. so you have to do some
composite work anyway to make them fit decent. Sand the doors back until
they clear the cabin cover, then cover the door edges with duct tape,
close/secure the door, and then build up the cabin cover frame by
squeegeeing in a Flox mixture, let it cure, then sand flush with an
orbital sander and some 80 grit. then reverse the process (duct tape on
the cabin cover) and then build up any low spots on the doors and after
cure sand as above. I just helped another builder with this and his
doors are turning out great.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> My way of dealing with the 45 degree door edge was to eliminate it, as I was
concerned that the edge would not hold up well to repeated opening and closing.
I squared off the door edge, then built up the adjoining cabin top edge to match.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge |
Ben
Here is was I used, see attached.
The blocks were cut from 3/4" MDF, one for the door and one for the door
frame.
The Perma-Grit sanding boards, one coarse & one fine, are clamped to the
blocks as needed.
Clean the sanding boards regularly.
Hope this helps.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Westfall
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2008 10:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 45 degree angle on the door edge
Does anyone have any neat tricks for putting a 45 degree edge on the
inside of the doors? I'm just about to that point.
-Ben
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 3715 (20081224) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
===========
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge |
And I strongly endorse what Deems said, with one modification. You can build up
both the door edge and cabin edge in one step by doing the following;
Place 3 layers of duct tape on the door edge, perpendicular to the outer surface
of the door. With a razor blade, trim the duct tape flush with the outer surface
of the door. Close and lock the door shut( your door pins and receivers should
already be adjusted to their final position). With a plastic spreader wide
enough to bridge the low spots on the door and cabin edge, spread flox to fill
all the low spots on both the door and cabin side of the duct tape. Unlock
the door and open it just enough to to break the surface over the duct tape.
This will disrupt the surface of the flox slightly, but it will be easy to fix.
After the flox cures shut the door and lock it. Sand with a block long enough
to bridge both door and cabin(maybe 12' long). Open the door, remove the duct
tape, and touch up the edges with micro mixed with a little flox( about 4 to
1 ratio of micro to flox. This will give the edges more strength than plain micro,
so that the edges won't chip out with use of the door). It is much easier
to get a smooth door to cabin transition by floxing and sanding both at the
same time. Three layers of duct tape will give you a consistant gap of about 0.020"
With primer and paint, that gap will be very small.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220958#220958
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