Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:32 AM - Aileron and rudder trim position indicators (Jim Berry)
2. 10:33 AM - Cleanup of Proseal (Les Kearney)
3. 10:44 AM - Fuel Sender Calibration (Les Kearney)
4. 11:19 AM - Re: Cleanup of Proseal (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
5. 11:31 AM - Oscillating Tools (Les Kearney)
6. 11:49 AM - Re: Oscillating Tools (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
7. 12:09 PM - Re: Oscillating Tools (Les Kearney)
8. 12:19 PM - Re: Fuel Sender Calibration (John Gonzalez)
9. 01:21 PM - Re: Cleanup of Proseal (Kelly McMullen)
10. 01:44 PM - Re: Cleanup of Proseal (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
11. 01:55 PM - Re: Cleanup of Proseal (Kelly McMullen)
12. 02:53 PM - Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators (Rene)
13. 05:04 PM - Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators (Tim Olson)
14. 05:09 PM - Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators (Jim Berry)
15. 05:21 PM - Re: Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators (Tim Olson)
16. 05:58 PM - Re: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV (Sheldon Olesen)
17. 06:36 PM - Re: Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators (Rene)
18. 07:28 PM - Brake system questions. (woxofswa)
19. 08:41 PM - Re: Brake system questions. (Marcus Cooper)
20. 10:18 PM - First Flight & Phase 1 Completed for VH-OSH (Evan & Tania)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Aileron and rudder trim position indicators |
To all of you flying with aileron and/or rudder trim, do you have trim position
indicators and do you find then useful? Thanks.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221213#221213
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| Subject: | Cleanup of Proseal |
Merry Christmas To All!
II have been looking through the archives for the best way to remove
proseal. I would like to avoid the use of MEK as it seems like particularly
nasty stuff. Is there anything else that that is effective and less toxic?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Some assembly required
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| Subject: | Fuel Sender Calibration |
Merry Christmas to All!
I have been reading with interest the various threads regarding fuel senders
especially with respect to QB wings. I do have a couple of questions for the
list.
* I want to test my sender movement after installation. Given that the
resistance ranges from 32-250 ohms, I thought I would test the empty tank
resistance and then flip the tank upside down and test again. Is this a
reasonable way to test the travel?
* I like John G's idea to flush the tanks with water and then blow
fresh air through to dry out them out. Is there any downside to this
approach?
Cheers
Les
#40643 - some assembly required
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| Subject: | Re: Cleanup of Proseal |
Les,
MEK is your best bet..not that nasty just use nitrile gloves and avoid the vapors..its
biggest hazard is absorption (transdermal) and use in non ventilated confined
spaces. It doesn't dissolve the proseal but transfers it to the cloth
used to wipe it off...safety glasses are a plus if you're a splasher!!
Rick S
40185
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
Subject: RV10-List: Cleanup of Proseal
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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| Subject: | Oscillating Tools |
Merry Christmas to All!
I recently saw an infomercial for a Multimaster Ocillating tool that seems
like it would be just the thing for trimming my canopy. Dremel also makes a
similar tool that costs perhaps on third of the Multimaster.
Does anyone have an experience with these? I haven't bought any tools for a
while and am going through withdrawal.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 - some assembly required
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| Subject: | Oscillating Tools |
The Fein MultiMaster is a the top of the list of nice to haves for a lot
of the composite guys, many of them think it's a must have. It works just
like the tool used to cut casts off. I have one and it is by far the easie
st thing to use on the fiberglass and acrylics we deal with.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 1:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oscillating Tools
Merry Christmas to All!
I recently saw an infomercial for a Multimaster Ocillating tool that seems
like it would be just the thing for trimming my canopy. Dremel also makes a
similar tool that costs perhaps on third of the Multimaster.
Does anyone have an experience with these? I haven't bought any tools for a
while and am going through withdrawal.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 - some assembly required
Message 7
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| Subject: | Oscillating Tools |
Michael
Thanks for the info. I have been doing a bit of digging and found out that
Dremel et al have been introducing their own versions as the Fein patent
just expired (Sept 08). The Dremel has the same size motor but is not quite
a "worksite ready" type of tool as is the Multimaster (based on the reviews
I have found).
Cheers
Les
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: December-26-08 12:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oscillating Tools
The Fein MultiMaster is a the top of the list of nice to haves for a lot
of the composite guys, many of them think it's a must have. It works just
like the tool used to cut casts off. I have one and it is by far the
easiest thing to use on the fiberglass and acrylics we deal with.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 1:26 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oscillating Tools
Merry Christmas to All!
I recently saw an infomercial for a Multimaster Ocillating tool that seems
like it would be just the thing for trimming my canopy. Dremel also makes a
similar tool that costs perhaps on third of the Multimaster.
Does anyone have an experience with these? I haven't bought any tools for a
while and am going through withdrawal.
Inquiring minds need to know
Les
#40643 - some assembly required
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://forums.matronics.com> http://forums.matronics.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fuel Sender Calibration |
I bought a new shop vac for this purpose because I didn't want to be blowin
g dust into the tank. I did this in summer or fall as the humidity level is
extremely low at those times and air temps are higher.JOhn GFrom: kearney@
shaw.caTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: Fuel Sender Calibrati
onDate: Fri=2C 26 Dec 2008 11:43:10 -0700
Merry Christmas to All!
I have been reading with interest the various threads
regarding fuel senders especially with respect to QB wings. I do have a cou
ple
of questions for the list.
I want to test my sender
movement after installation. Given that the resistance ranges from 32-
250
ohms=2C I thought I would test the empty tank resistance and then flip
the
tank upside down and test again. Is this a reasonable way to test the
travel?
I like John G=92s idea to
flush the tanks with water and then blow fresh air through to dry out
them
out. Is there any downside to this approach?
Cheers
Les
#40643 ' some assembly required
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cleanup of Proseal |
Depends on whether it is cured or not. While it is wet, isopropyl
alcohol works, but not after curing. There is a solvent that is used
for removing it from tanks, but it is very pricey(perhaps $50 a gal).
If you just want it off a tool or part and they won't otherwise be
harmed by a dunk in carburetor cleaner, it will dissolve it.
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146
Probably good for cleaning clecos. MEK is not very effective on cured PRC.
On Fri, Dec 26, 2008 at 11:31 AM, Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Merry Christmas To All!
>
>
> II have been looking through the archives for the best way to remove
> proseal. I would like to avoid the use of MEK as it seems like particularly
> nasty stuff. Is there anything else that that is effective and less toxic?
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643 Some assembly required
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cleanup of Proseal |
FWIW...there isn't any chemical that can thin or dissolve proseal...MEK allows
the sealant to be transferred from the metal to the rag...Denatured alcohol...in
the precure stage...or working time frame can clean it but it is not the most
practical way to clean up..MEK is still the best and the stuff we used on fighters
to wipe excess and clean areas that proseal didn't belong
Rick S
40185
------Original Message------
From: Kelly McMullen
Sender:
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Dec 26, 2008 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleanup of Proseal
Depends on whether it is cured or not. While it is wet, isopropyl
alcohol works, but not after curing. There is a solvent that is used
for removing it from tanks, but it is very pricey(perhaps $50 a gal).
If you just want it off a tool or part and they won't otherwise be
harmed by a dunk in carburetor cleaner, it will dissolve it.
http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146
Probably good for cleaning clecos. MEK is not very effective on cured PRC.
On Fri, Dec 26, 2008 at 11:31 AM, Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Merry Christmas To All!
>
>
> II have been looking through the archives for the best way to remove
> proseal. I would like to avoid the use of MEK as it seems like particularly
> nasty stuff. Is there anything else that that is effective and less toxic?
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643 Some assembly required
>
>
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cleanup of Proseal |
Yes, there is a variety of chemicals that disolve proseal. I don't
have the brand name handy. See:
http://www.willmarairservice.com/tank.php
On Fri, Dec 26, 2008 at 2:36 PM, <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>
> FWIW...there isn't any chemical that can thin or dissolve proseal...MEK allows
the sealant to be transferred from the metal to the rag...Denatured alcohol...in
the precure stage...or working time frame can clean it but it is not the
most practical way to clean up..MEK is still the best and the stuff we used on
fighters to wipe excess and clean areas that proseal didn't belong
>
> Rick S
> 40185
Message 12
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| Subject: | Aileron and rudder trim position indicators |
I use my GRT EFIS for elevator and aileron trim indication. Work great and
they are very useful....preflight being the most useful time. I have a
separate indicator for the rudder trim......not sure it is as useful. The
rudder trim does not have much authority and I just center the ball with it
once I get into a steady state....climb, decent or level flight.
Also, I did not put in a flap indicator and I regret it. I am doing it this
annual. I put markers on my flaps and use the P-1 LOT device (pilot..me),
but don't like having to turn my head to see the flaps during pre landing
checks. I have a flap positioning system, but like to check flap position on
final......
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 9:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators
To all of you flying with aileron and/or rudder trim, do you have trim
position indicators and do you find then useful? Thanks.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221213#221213
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators |
You probably don't need anything on the rudder trim, but it's actually
nice to see where it's set for the aileron trim.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> To all of you flying with aileron and/or rudder trim, do you have
> trim position indicators and do you find then useful? Thanks.
>
> Jim Berry 40482
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221213#221213
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators |
Rene'
Thanks for the info. Your response prompts another question. I am just finishing
up my rudder trim a la Tim, Vic and others. They both used 11" of hinge for
their tab. If you do not have enough rudder trim authority, how much tab do you
have and how much do you think it would take to have enough authority? If I
am going to need more tab, now would be the ideal time to change it.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221282#221282
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators |
Jim,
I HOPEFULLY will get this right for Rene', but I don't think he
meant to say it doesn't have ENOUGH authority, more that it
doesn't TAKE much authority. The amount of trim required
is pretty small. With the 10-11" of hinge that I have, it
doesn't need to move very far, and you can easily see the effect
with the skid ball.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Rene'
>
> Thanks for the info. Your response prompts another question. I am
> just finishing up my rudder trim a la Tim, Vic and others. They both
> used 11" of hinge for their tab. If you do not have enough rudder
> trim authority, how much tab do you have and how much do you think it
> would take to have enough authority? If I am going to need more tab,
> now would be the ideal time to change it.
>
> Jim Berry 40482
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221282#221282
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: DAR Blessed N475PV |
Bill,
Since you asked to see a pic of my plane, here it is. First flight
should be around New Year's day. Gotta get that transition training
done first.
Sheldon Olesen
On Dec 24, 2008, at 10:41 AM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> <william@gbta.net>
>
> Missed the paint job. Could someone point me to a link that has a
> picture. I'd love to see how it looks.
>
> Bill Britton
>
> PS. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone. If you're
> traveling be very careful out there!!!
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lenny Iszak"
> <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 12:42 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: DAR Blessed N475PV
>
>
>> <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
>>
>> Wow! Love the paint job!
>>
>> Lenny
>> #40803
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220881#220881
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> 11:23 AM
>
>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators |
Jim. Tim got it right. I have enough authority to do what I want, it will
center the ball in climb, decent and cruse, I just meant to say that it did
not exert a lot of force and no matter what position it is in I have no
trouble using the rudder. I can not remember how many inches I used, but I
think it was 11 - 12 inches. Now for the elevator trim that is another
story, take off with it in the wrong position and you will need two hands to
fly the plane....don't ask how I know..........
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 6:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators
Jim,
I HOPEFULLY will get this right for Rene', but I don't think he
meant to say it doesn't have ENOUGH authority, more that it
doesn't TAKE much authority. The amount of trim required
is pretty small. With the 10-11" of hinge that I have, it
doesn't need to move very far, and you can easily see the effect
with the skid ball.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jim Berry wrote:
>
> Rene'
>
> Thanks for the info. Your response prompts another question. I am
> just finishing up my rudder trim a la Tim, Vic and others. They both
> used 11" of hinge for their tab. If you do not have enough rudder
> trim authority, how much tab do you have and how much do you think it
> would take to have enough authority? If I am going to need more tab,
> now would be the ideal time to change it.
>
> Jim Berry 40482
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221282#221282
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Brake system questions. |
A couple of questions for the brain trust.
I am about to begin the chapter on the brake system.
My first question concerns the pros/cons of a sealant whilst mating the connectors.
Van's says okay, but not necessary, and to never use teflon tape. They
say they don't use any sealant for the connections in their shop.
My second question is wondering if anyone has any comment/experience in using the stainless steel braided lines versus the plastic tubing, for the actuators. Anyone have experience with the www.nonstopaviation.com brake line kit?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221303#221303
Message 19
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| Subject: | Brake system questions. |
Myron,
I have the nylon tubing going from the passenger brakes to the pilot
brakes per the plans. It's absolutely appalling to many folks, but I've
never had a failure. What it has done for me that is positive, is to
recognize a leak sooner than feeling squishy brakes. I just noticed the
lack of red fluid in the line recently and had I used stainless lines the
first I would have noticed is when the brakes didn't work so well. That is
very disconcerting with an airplane without a steerable nosewheel. Overall
the stainless braided lines are probably the way to go, but just a thought
as you mull over what to do with your machine.
Marcus
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 9:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake system questions.
A couple of questions for the brain trust.
I am about to begin the chapter on the brake system.
My first question concerns the pros/cons of a sealant whilst mating the
connectors. Van's says okay, but not necessary, and to never use teflon
tape. They say they don't use any sealant for the connections in their
shop.
My second question is wondering if anyone has any comment/experience in
using the stainless steel braided lines versus the plastic tubing, for the
actuators. Anyone have experience with the www.nonstopaviation.com brake
line kit?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221303#221303
Message 20
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| Subject: | First Flight & Phase 1 Completed for VH-OSH |
Hi Everyone,
We are pleased to advise that our RV-10 "VH-OSH" had its first flight at
10:30am on 17 Dec 2008 at Hervey Bay Airport in Queensland, Australia
(yippee!!). We had to pinch ourselves a few times for it to really sink in.
The OSH call sign came about when you were all busy organising the RV10
group gathering for OSH 2008 earlier this year. We simply couldn't resist
using this registration for our plane when it was available at that time!
Someday we hope to get over to OSH to meet everyone.
The project began for us in Jan 2007 with the purchase of a partially
completed empennage kit. We assembled our aircraft in a makeshift 9m x 3m
gazebo in our small back garden (she got a big large for our double garage).
Regular support and help was provided by Colin Crittenden (General Build and
Test Pilot) and Jake Jansen (Avionics). VH-OSH now has 27hrs of flight time
and is performing well.
For those who are interested, we put in:
Mattituck Lycoming TMX IO-540 ( with one Lightspeed Plasma IIIB ignition)
Hartzel Prop
Dynon EFIS (D100) and EMS (D120)
PMA4000 Audio Panel
Garmin SL-30 Nav/Com
Garmin 327 Transponder
Trio EZ auto pilot
740kg empty weight with paint and upholstery.
Kindest regards and happy flying!
Evan and Tania Andrews
Queensland, Australia
VH-OSH now Flying!!!!!
40379
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