Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:25 AM - Re: Brake system questions. (Lenny Iszak)
2. 03:43 AM - Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators (David Maib)
3. 04:57 AM - Re: Cleanup of Proseal (Rob Kermanj)
4. 05:44 AM - Re: Brake system questions. (Jesse Saint)
5. 11:42 AM - Cabin Top Countersink (nukeflyboy)
6. 02:32 PM - Drilling Control Stick (jfg@aol.com)
7. 02:41 PM - Re: Drilling Control Stick (Carl Froehlich)
8. 02:50 PM - Re: Cabin Top Countersink (Lew Gallagher)
9. 02:58 PM - Re: Drilling Control Stick (Michael Kraus)
10. 02:59 PM - Re: First Flight & Phase 1 Completed for VH-OSH (John Dunne)
11. 04:11 PM - Re: Re: Brake system questions. (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 04:49 PM - Re: Cabin Top Countersink (nukeflyboy)
13. 05:00 PM - Re: Push Rod Height in Tunnel (nukeflyboy)
14. 05:51 PM - Re: Re: Push Rod Height in Tunnel (David Hertner)
15. 05:52 PM - Re: Re: Push Rod Height in Tunnel (David Hertner)
16. 06:39 PM - Re: Drilling Control Stick (Jim)
17. 09:02 PM - Re: Drilling Control Stick (DejaVu)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Brake system questions. |
Myron,
I got the braided stainless brake line kit from Bonaco Inc. It includes the blue
fittings and the brake lines for the gear legs too. If I remember correctly
the total cost was $160 + shipping. Couple of weeks before that I paid $120 for
a single brake line for my Katana. Gotta love experimental airplanes...
If you search the archives you'll find a few posts about thread sealants. Using
that information I decided to use teflon paste, making sure not to get it on
the first thread.
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221329#221329
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron and rudder trim position indicators |
I recently finished my phase one flying and I found that I did not
pay much attention to the rudder trim indicator. The aileron trim
indicator was something I would reset after refueling, but did not
really need it.. Pitch trim indicator, I used every takeoff. All
three indicators are shown on the Vertical Power display in my airplane.
David Maib
40559
On Dec 26, 2008, at 11:30 AM, Jim Berry wrote:
>
> To all of you flying with aileron and/or rudder trim, do you have
> trim position indicators and do you find then useful? Thanks.
>
> Jim Berry
> 40482
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221213#221213
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cleanup of Proseal |
also try removing most of it with a plastic serrated knife and clean
up with lacquer thinner.
On Dec 26, 2008, at 1:31 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
> Merry Christmas To All!
>
> II have been looking through the archives for the best way to remove
> proseal. I would like to avoid the use of MEK as it seems like
> particularly nasty stuff. Is there anything else that that is
> effective and less toxic?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> #40643 ' Some assembly required
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Brake system questions. |
Standard practice is to use something like Seal Lube on the pipe
thread (tapered thread) fittings which lets you get them tighter with
less torque while helping to seal the threads as well. Flare fittings
don't need sealant because they don't seal on the threads, but rather
on the flared portion.
I have never used other than the plastic lines as the plans call for.
As mentioned, it helps detect a leak and also greatly helps bleading
them in the first place because you can see air in the lines as fluid
pumps through them.
On the gear legs I have used the plans way and the Bonaco lines.
IMHO, the solid lines will last longer if you keep them from chafing.
The Bonaco lines have a rubber outer coating to b prevent chafing.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation
jesse@saintaviation.com
352-427-0285
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 26, 2008, at 10:27 PM, "woxofswa" <woxof@aol.com> wrote:
>
> A couple of questions for the brain trust.
>
> I am about to begin the chapter on the brake system.
>
> My first question concerns the pros/cons of a sealant whilst mating
> the connectors. Van's says okay, but not necessary, and to never
> use teflon tape. They say they don't use any sealant for the
> connections in their shop.
>
> My second question is wondering if anyone has any comment/experience
> in using the stainless steel braided lines versus the plastic
> tubing, for the actuators. Anyone have experience with the www.nonstopaviation.com
> brake line kit?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221303#221303
>
>
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| Subject: | Cabin Top Countersink |
Does anyone know the whereabouts of the traveling countersink for the shoulder
harness attach point? It's that time for me and I would like to be added to the
list.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221386#221386
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| Subject: | Drilling Control Stick |
Holy Moley! =C2-What kind of drill bit does it take to drill the control s
tick/base assembly?? =C2-It's killing my bits -- I've had to re-sharpen mo
re than 6 times, and I'm not completely thru even the first assembly!
Jim Gilmore #40317
Legacy fuse complete/installing systems
Message 7
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| Subject: | Drilling Control Stick |
Try some Boelube or cutting oil on the drill bit.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jfg@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 5:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Drilling Control Stick
Holy Moley! What kind of drill bit does it take to drill the control
stick/base assembly?? It's killing my bits -- I've had to re-sharpen
more than 6 times, and I'm not completely thru even the first assembly!
Jim Gilmore #40317
Legacy fuse complete/installing systems
_____
Get a free MP3 every day with the Spinner.com Toolbar. Get
<http://toolbar.aol.com/spinner/download.html?ncid=emlweusdown00000018>
it Now.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Top Countersink |
Hey Dave,
It took some searching (my wife periodically rearranges and throws away "clutter"
if I happen to leave stuff in the house instead of in the shop), but I have
the traveling countersink in hand. Send your mailing address to me at: lewgall(at)charter.net
and I'll send it to you.
If others are ready, let me know and I'll start another circuit. If you are using
Van's seat belts, all you need is your canopy to go ahead and drill and countersink
the two hard spots -- you don't have to have fitted it yet.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221405#221405
Message 9
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| Subject: | Drilling Control Stick |
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: First Flight & Phase 1 Completed for VH-OSH |
Congratulations Evan and Tania!
Great to see a new RV-10 in the Queensland Home skies!
Wishing you all the best for many happy hours in your beautiful part of the
coast.
John 40315, Brisbane Queensland (painting)
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan & Tania" <etandrews@westnet.com.au>
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 4:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight & Phase 1 Completed for VH-OSH
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> We are pleased to advise that our RV-10 "VH-OSH" had its first flight at
> 10:30am on 17 Dec 2008 at Hervey Bay Airport in Queensland, Australia
> (yippee!!). We had to pinch ourselves a few times for it to really sink
> in.
>
> The OSH call sign came about when you were all busy organising the RV10
> group gathering for OSH 2008 earlier this year. We simply couldn't
> resist
> using this registration for our plane when it was available at that time!
> Someday we hope to get over to OSH to meet everyone.
>
> The project began for us in Jan 2007 with the purchase of a partially
> completed empennage kit. We assembled our aircraft in a makeshift 9m x 3m
> gazebo in our small back garden (she got a big large for our double
> garage).
> Regular support and help was provided by Colin Crittenden (General Build
> and
> Test Pilot) and Jake Jansen (Avionics). VH-OSH now has 27hrs of flight
> time
> and is performing well.
>
> For those who are interested, we put in:
>
> Mattituck Lycoming TMX IO-540 ( with one Lightspeed Plasma IIIB ignition)
> Hartzel Prop
> Dynon EFIS (D100) and EMS (D120)
> PMA4000 Audio Panel
> Garmin SL-30 Nav/Com
> Garmin 327 Transponder
> Trio EZ auto pilot
>
> 740kg empty weight with paint and upholstery.
>
>
> Kindest regards and happy flying!
> Evan and Tania Andrews
> Queensland, Australia
>
> VH-OSH now Flying!!!!!
> 40379
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> Database version: 5.11420
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Brake system questions. |
I'll second the vote for the Bonaco kit. Back in May I paid $185 for them shipped
and it came with new lines and fittings to replace the plastic lines. They
also came with lines to run down the gear legs to replace those hard lines.
They are SS Teflon lines with an anti chafe clear plastic sleeve. I was really
impressed with how small they were as I've seen others that were quite bulky.
Contact Brett for more info, brett@bonacoinc.com. Great stuff and great
people to work with.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 3:24 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Brake system questions.
Myron,
I got the braided stainless brake line kit from Bonaco Inc. It includes the blue
fittings and the brake lines for the gear legs too. If I remember correctly
the total cost was $160 + shipping. Couple of weeks before that I paid $120 for
a single brake line for my Katana. Gotta love experimental airplanes...
If you search the archives you'll find a few posts about thread sealants. Using
that information I decided to use teflon paste, making sure not to get it on
the first thread.
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221329#221329
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Top Countersink |
Thanks Lew, I'll respond off line.
do not archive
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221416#221416
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Push Rod Height in Tunnel |
Jeff,
That's a tough place to put them. I'm sure that you are aware that most of us
have put them outboard of the centerline where there is no interference. The
cables are stiff and don't easily bend. While you could use a 90 degree (elbow)
coax connector, I don't think the clearance is there. Try a mock-up to get
the height of the plates and connector to see if it fits.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221417#221417
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Push Rod Height in Tunnel |
Jeff,
I have mounted a couple of antennas in the center under the puss rods.
The first is the transponder antenna just forward of the main spars and
the other is the marker beacon antenna under the flap motor area. Both
went in with 90 deg. BNC fittings and there was about a finger thickness
of clearance between the top of the connector and the push rod.
Dave Hertner
RV-10 # 40164
Working on the wiring and cabin overhead console.
nukeflyboy wrote:
>
> Jeff,
> That's a tough place to put them. I'm sure that you are aware that most of us
have put them outboard of the centerline where there is no interference. The
cables are stiff and don't easily bend. While you could use a 90 degree (elbow)
coax connector, I don't think the clearance is there. Try a mock-up to get
the height of the plates and connector to see if it fits.
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221417#221417
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Dave Hertner
President
Effectus AeroProducts Inc.
Kit Aircraft Component Manufacturing
Machining - Fabrication - Laser/Water-Jet Cutting
Blog: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com
Email: davehertner@effectus-aeroproducts.com
Phone: (519) 933-2055
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Push Rod Height in Tunnel |
I think that was supposed to be PUSH Rods ;-)
Dave
Do Not Archive
nukeflyboy wrote:
>
> Jeff,
> That's a tough place to put them. I'm sure that you are aware that most of us
have put them outboard of the centerline where there is no interference. The
cables are stiff and don't easily bend. While you could use a 90 degree (elbow)
coax connector, I don't think the clearance is there. Try a mock-up to get
the height of the plates and connector to see if it fits.
>
> --------
> Dave Moore
> RV-6 flying
> RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=221417#221417
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Dave Hertner
President
Effectus AeroProducts Inc.
Kit Aircraft Component Manufacturing
Machining - Fabrication - Laser/Water-Jet Cutting
Blog: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com
Email: davehertner@effectus-aeroproducts.com
Phone: (519) 933-2055
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling Control Stick |
Get some Boelube. It make drilling the steel MUCH easier. I
got a small container of the paste and it has been used by myself and four
other builders. Still have a bunch left.
I don't remember
where I bought it, but it really does the trick. Cool Tool also
works well. It is a product used by machinists.
A little
of either product goes a long way. Use it on taps too.
Jim Combs
40192
N312F
> Holy Moley!
What kind of drill bit does it take to drill the control
> stick/base assembly?? It's killing my bits -- I've had
to re-sharpen
> more than 6 times, and I'm not completely thru
even the first assembly!
>
>
> Jim Gilmore
#40317
>
> Legacy fuse complete/installing systems
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling Control Stick |
Remember too that low rpm works better on steel.
Anh
N591VU
>
>
> Get some Boelube. It make drilling the steel MUCH easier. I
> got a small container of the paste and it has been used by myself and four
> other builders. Still have a bunch left.
>
> I don't remember
> where I bought it, but it really does the trick. Cool Tool also
> works well. It is a product used by machinists.
>
> A little
> of either product goes a long way. Use it on taps too.
>
> Jim Combs
> 40192
> N312F
>
>> Holy Moley!
> What kind of drill bit does it take to drill the control
>> stick/base assembly?? It's killing my bits -- I've had
> to re-sharpen
>> more than 6 times, and I'm not completely thru
> even the first assembly!
>>
>>
>> Jim Gilmore
> #40317
>>
>> Legacy fuse complete/installing systems
>>
>
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