Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:26 AM - Re: applying weld-on to vertical surface (John Hilger)
2. 10:45 AM - GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder (Matt Dralle)
3. 11:29 AM - Re: GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder (Tim Olson)
4. 11:29 AM - Brake Reservoir on firewall (johngoodman)
5. 11:37 AM - Re: Brake Reservoir on firewall (Rene Felker)
6. 03:46 PM - Re: Elevator attachment (Steven DiNieri)
7. 06:46 PM - cabin top at hinge location (John Gonzalez)
8. 07:03 PM - Re: Elevator attachment (Space Cadet)
9. 07:12 PM - Re: cabin top at hinge location (pascal)
10. 07:13 PM - Re: cabin top at hinge location (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
11. 07:32 PM - Re: cabin top at hinge location (Jim Berry)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: applying weld-on to vertical surface |
Tom
That is the way did all of the windows and it worked very well.
Sorry no pictures (there was no time).
Rehearse for each window time is very critical.
So is temperature, I wouldn't try it above 70 deg.
Check Tim Olson's site for additional details.
John H
----- Original Message -----
From: "tomhanaway" <tomhanaway@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 3:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: applying weld-on to vertical surface
>
> Without getting into a weld-on war, it appears that one of the
> difficulties is that the weld-on tends to run/drip on vertical surfaces
> like the rear windows or door windows (if installed with door attached to
> cabin top).
>
> Would it help to put the sealant on the window itself rather than the
> cabin top? This way the acrylic window could be laid flat, sealant put on
> in taped off area of window with minimal dripping, and then placed into
> the cabin top joggles. Still would be runoff/drip at this point but might
> work better??
>
> Thoughts??
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom Hanaway
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222256#222256
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder |
Listers,
I've tried sending two different sources of NMEA 0183 data at 4800/9600/19200/38400/57600
baud rates to my Garmin GTX-327 on both serial input ports 1 (db25
Pin 2) and port 2 (db25 pin 19), and configured for "GPS" input. But I don't
get anything on the GTX-327 serial input test display. I have been successful
at getting AirData Z-format from the GRT EFIS at 9600 baud into either of the
GTX-327 serial ports, so the ports are good. The NMEA 0183 data registers correctly
on other devices reading it so the GPS serial output seem fine. The GTX-327
just won't seem to see the GPS data for some reason.
Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else tried this successfully?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: GPS Serial Data to Garmin GTX-327 Transponder |
I'm not positive of this, but I think most Garmin stuff
will not work with NMEA 0183, only Aviation format. It
makes working with some things a bit tough. So the
GTX-327 probably just doesn't understand it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've tried sending two different sources of NMEA 0183 data at
> 4800/9600/19200/38400/57600 baud rates to my Garmin GTX-327 on both
> serial input ports 1 (db25 Pin 2) and port 2 (db25 pin 19), and
> configured for "GPS" input. But I don't get anything on the GTX-327
> serial input test display. I have been successful at getting AirData
> Z-format from the GRT EFIS at 9600 baud into either of the GTX-327
> serial ports, so the ports are good. The NMEA 0183 data registers
> correctly on other devices reading it so the GPS serial output seem
> fine. The GTX-327 just won't seem to see the GPS data for some
> reason.
>
> Am I doing something wrong? Has anyone else tried this successfully?
>
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Brake Reservoir on firewall |
I'm in the process of mounting the Brake Reservoir on the engine side of the firewall
as per the plans. The 3 washers on an AN3-5A bolt don't really get the
reservoir far enough away to clear the upper part of the firewall. I'm thinking
that another washer and longer bolt will solve the problem, but there might
be a clearance issue later on with the engine.
Any comments?
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222413#222413
Message 5
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| Subject: | Brake Reservoir on firewall |
Just remounted mine yesterday (fixing a leak) during the annual. Only used
two washers the first time, but added a third yesterday, did not have any
clearance problems with only 2 washers. But, I don't see a problem with
going with 4 washers.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 12:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake Reservoir on firewall
I'm in the process of mounting the Brake Reservoir on the engine side of the
firewall as per the plans. The 3 washers on an AN3-5A bolt don't really get
the reservoir far enough away to clear the upper part of the firewall. I'm
thinking that another washer and longer bolt will solve the problem, but
there might be a clearance issue later on with the engine.
Any comments?
John
--------
#40572 QB Fuselage, wings finished
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222413#222413
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator attachment |
Jim,
I have (had) the exact same situation. I went crazy trying to find
out what I had done wrong, but in the end I simply made the call to
aircraft spruce and all was right again.....untill I pushed the rudder
into the hangar door moving the plane around.....but that=99s
another story..
steven dinieri
iflyrv10.com
From: jfg@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 6:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator attachment
OK... It seems like the closer I get to setting this beast on wheels,
the more questions I have! I was attaching the elevators to the
horizontal stabilizer (HS) this morning, and of course some adjustment
was needed to establish the 1/8" gap between the elevator counterweight
arm of the elevator and the side edge of the HS... nor surprise there,
as it's not a perfect world, and the manual said to expect it. I had
two choices to make the adjustment: 1) tighten the inboard rod end
bearing (REB) or 2) loosen the outboard REB. Because there was no
clearance to tighten (shorten) the inboard REB, I loosened the outboard
REB in several increments. By the time I achieved a gap that did not
rub the counterweight arm against the HS end, I had extended the
recommended 7/8" dimension between the centerline of the bearing and the
forward face of the forward elevator spar to about 1-1/32". Everywhere
else I've read about the REBs says that half the threads must be
inserted into the nut/plate, and this is far less than half of the
threads.
Has anyone else encountered this, and, if so, what did you do about it?
Or should I not be concerned with this amount of exposed thread in THIS
location as lon g as I tighten the jam nut appropriately? It would
almost seem that a longer REB is called for than what is provided in the
kit...
Jim Gilmore, #40317
Legacy wings/empennage/fuse complete except for final assembly and cabin
cover hell....
... and of course engine/avionics...
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Message 7
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| Subject: | cabin top at hinge location |
Has anyone done anything to minimize the drag caused by the opening in the
cabin top at the hinge locations. I was thinking about making a 4 kevlar sh
eets that would lay flat in the slipstream but be able to flex up when the
doors are open=2C but the problem I see is that the metal hinge in a few lo
cations is at the same level as the cabin top and the sheet would not be ab
le to be recessed. I have fared those location in and a few spots the metal
was exposed by the sanding.Ideas???ThanksJOhn G. Do Not Archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator attachment |
I'll add to Carl's excellent write-up that I did a little filing of the elevator
horn skins on mine to get a better gap. Was not much though. I did measure
more than just the end gap locations though, checking along the entire top and
bottom skin of both pieces during movement which might have contributed to a
little more work. And I had to adjust one bearing a full turn more than the
other, but in the end, my bearings also were very close to the prescribed dimensions.
Dwight
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222489#222489
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: cabin top at hinge location |
probably no surprise but Deems did do something.
went through these xacts questions.
When I asked Deems this is part of what he sent.
Here's some links to some pics:
>>
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20The%20Home%20Stretch/slides/DSC06152.htm
l.
>>
>>
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancie
s/slides/DSC06166.html
>>
>>
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20PP%20Painting%20Preparation/slides/DSC06
323.html
>>
>>
>> follow the 'next' link on the above to see several pics.
as far as the recessed:
I used a Dremel, with a router bit and their plastic mini router fence.
I set it for about 1/16" depth so that the fiberglass covers would sit
below the airstream (hopefully).
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 6:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cabin top at hinge location
Has anyone done anything to minimize the drag caused by the opening in
the cabin top at the hinge locations.
I was thinking about making a 4 kevlar sheets that would lay flat in the
slipstream but be able to flex up when the doors are open, but the
problem I see is that the metal hinge in a few locations is at the same
level as the cabin top and the sheet would not be able to be recessed. I
have fared those location in and a few spots the metal was exposed by
the sanding.
Ideas???
Thanks
JOhn G. Do Not Archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: cabin top at hinge location |
John,
Deems made some glass covers and Robin Marks made aluminu
m...I went with the aluminum ones...if you checkout Deems
or Robins site you can see both examples
Rick S
40185
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: cabin top at hinge location
Has anyone done anything to minimize the drag caused by
the opening in the cabin top at the hinge locations.
I was thinking about making a 4 kevlar sheets that w
ould lay flat in the slipstream but be able to flex u
p when the doors are open, but the problem I see is
that the metal hinge in a few locations is at the
same level as the cabin top and the sheet would not b
e able to be recessed. I have fared those location in
and a few spots the metal was exposed by the sanding
.Ideas???ThanksJOhn G. Do Not Archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: cabin top at hinge location |
John,
I did not do anything over the top of the hinges, but I did clean up the gap between
the edge of the hinges and the recess in the cabin top. After the hinges
were shimmed to final position I removed them and wrapped each hinge with 3 layers
of duct tape on the edges only. Also covered the top and bottom of each
hinge with release tape. After reinstallation, the gap was filled with flox, leaving
a gap of about 0.020" between hinge edge and top. It also cleaned up the
irregular radius of the original cabin edge.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222494#222494
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