Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:30 AM - Spread the load CSK washers on wheel pants (AirMike)
2. 05:42 AM - Re: Re: GPS and Fiberglass (linn Walters)
3. 05:50 AM - Re: Spread the load CSK washers on wheel pants (linn Walters)
4. 06:32 AM - Re: Preferred tablet (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
5. 07:16 AM - Re: Re: firewall wall hinge material (John Gonzalez)
6. 07:42 AM - Re: How to create epoxy threads (Michael Wellenzohn)
7. 07:56 AM - Re: How to create epoxy threads (greghale)
8. 08:14 AM - Re: Re: How to create epoxy threads (pascal)
9. 09:28 AM - Re: Preferred tablet (Tim Olson)
10. 09:48 AM - Re: Re: How to create epoxy threads (Don McDonald)
11. 09:55 AM - Re: Preferred tablet (John Jessen)
12. 11:56 AM - Re: Spread the load CSK washers on wheel pants (Dave Saylor)
13. 01:39 PM - Re: Spread the load CSK washers on wheel pants (McGANN, Ron)
14. 02:20 PM - Re: Preferred tablet (David Maib)
15. 05:06 PM - Sport Aviation Article by Lenord Aune (pascal)
16. 10:45 PM - Re: Re: How to create epoxy threads (Werner Schneider)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Spread the load CSK washers on wheel pants |
Has anyone use the "hat" style CSK washers on the wheel pants or on other fiberglass
parts to prevent the fiberglass from cracking. I remember that I had a bunch
of them on my Piper to prevent the cheap ABS from cracking on the pants?
If you have used them would you consider them to be effective at spreading the
load and preventing cracking?
Spruce sell them pretty cheap
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222941#222941
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: GPS and Fiberglass |
I think 'maybe' should be used instead of 'will'. The heat in the
glareshield area on a sunny day can get pretty high too. I don't think
that area in the picture gets as hot as folks think (but I have no data)
because most of the engine heat goes out through the cowl exit in
flight. If baffled good. after shutdown, convection should take most of
that heat and exit through the inlets. I'm in the habit of opening up
the oil filler door after I park and really don't get much heat exiting
there (but I think any help is good!). Heat isn't kind to electronics,
especially semiconductors, but semiconductors have 'matured' over the
years and are increasingly more tolerant of heat. Someday I'll try and
measure the temps ...... but those 'somedays' seem to take forever!!!
Linn
AirMike wrote:
>
> here is one installation. The inside job seen at OSH on 2007. I was told by th
avionics shop that it will reduce the life of the antenna, so I went with two
on top of the dash
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222928#222928
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010294_135.jpg
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Spread the load CSK washers on wheel pants |
Piper liked them for a good reason ..... they cover up a multitude of
sins ..... mostly wide tolerances in the ABS parts ..... and they look
good. We (the collective experimental plane builder 'we') take a lot of
time to make our removable fasteners fit really nice so I'm not sure
that I'd wallow out the holes to install the finish washers. I would,
however use them for the same reason that Piper does ..... after hard
use has already wallowed out the holes.
Linn
AirMike wrote:
>
> Has anyone use the "hat" style CSK washers on the wheel pants or on other fiberglass
parts to prevent the fiberglass from cracking. I remember that I had a
bunch of them on my Piper to prevent the cheap ABS from cracking on the pants?
>
> If you have used them would you consider them to be effective at spreading the
load and preventing cracking?
>
> Spruce sell them pretty cheap
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222941#222941
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Preferred tablet |
If you are going for a new laptop to replace your current one and also use in
the aircraft you will probably want a convertible. The slates are nice as EFB's
but can be a pain when you want to use it normally. The down side is the
convertibles are a bit more bulky. I have had one of the first Toshiba convertible
tablets to come out for many years now and it's always worked well. The
Lenovo X61 tablet is very nice but like most Lenovo devices they are business
orientated so are a bit utilitarian and expensive but are bulletproof. The HP
tx series are more consumer orientated so they are cheaper and have lots of
bells and whistles but are also bulkier. They are usually reviewed well also.
If you are looking at a new laptop to also be used in an aircraft, spring the
extra cash for a SSD. Tim's idea works well as long as you are not using it
as a single purpose device and not as a regular laptop. CF cards, even the newest
cards like the Sandisk Extreme IV (45MB/s), are still about 3-5 times slower
than the current SATA-1 (150MB/s) or SATAII (300MB/s) SSD's and hard drives
and are technically even slower than USB2 (60MB/s and assuming a good thumb
drive not the kind you get at a trade show). I've also heard of corruption of
CF's and USB sticks if they are really loaded up from say something like opening
a Word doc, switching to your email, and having a movie playing in the background.
Never mind doing something like that from a CF card or USB device would
probably take several minutes.
If your laptop has a standard SATA interface in it you can get lower quality
SSD's for sub-$100 prices now and they will still be better performing than even
most hard drives. Here is a 30GB SATAII SSD with a USB port also for $75...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227372
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Preferred tablet
John,
My advice would be if you're going to look for something to use mainly
in the plane, then look at all the models that are available from
some of the aviation software companies, like Golden Eagle Chart Case,
and Seattle Avionics. They sell the models that probably work best
for plane use. I like the motion tablets because you can get the
View Anywhere and Ultra View Anywhere displays, which are nice for
in the daylight. Most average laptops/tablets will get real washed
out in sunlight. So there is benefit to paying more. I just got done
putting a SSD by using a CF card into my LE1600, and swapped memory
up to a 2GB module. The CF Card thing cost me about $110, and the
memory about $25-30. It seems to work pretty good, although in
terms of current horsepower, the dual-core stuff will blow it away.
Those LE1600's with ViewAnywhere screens can be had for about $800
or so, as a cheap way to get into it. One of the guys at
Seattle Avionics really loves his convertable tablet...I think
it may be a fujitsu or something. I think you'll find that
opinions and usages vary wildly.
While this page has some pretty non-current info on it, I did
recently update it.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/IFR/Chart_Software.html
I'm flying with Voyager software, myself, so have no need for
paper any longer. Interestingly, there was just an article in
Aviation Consumer about the 696, and after reading that, I am
convinced that it really is lacking in filling the real needs
of what pilots of this late decade really need. Turns out they
won't ever be doing geo-referenced charts on it, and there are
literally dozens of features that it won't do compared with
either of the most popular EFB software packages. Either
Chart Case or Voyager EFB really blow it away in capabilities
for the most part. And, it's great to be able to use the
machine for more than just a GPS.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: firewall wall hinge material |
Thanks Tim for the heads up.
I was looking at your picture and I noticed that the pictures showed materi
al thicknesses but in the time I was looking I didn't see the written descr
iption for why the spacer material was different for these lower backing pl
ates vs what is used on the hinges. Perhaps I was looking in the wrong area
as the pictures where under the discription for the top cowl. I'll be loo
king later in the day when I have some time.
JOhn Do Not Archive
> Date: Sat=2C 3 Jan 2009 21:54:00 -0600> From: Tim@MyRV10.com> To: rv10-li
st@matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: firewall wall hinge material>
lso note that although you use the stainless steel hinges=2C> the hinge pin
s are NOT the same pins that come with them if I> remember right. Those pin
s would be too thick to do the curvatures.> It's pretty slick once you get
it all together.> > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying> > > > nukeflyboy wro
> > > > John=2C You are correct=2C it is the heavy hinges. Pay close attent
ion> > to the plans (they are all different) and be sure to mark them so> >
they go back easier. Do not use the hinge material on the bottom of> > the
cowl as the plans call out. There is too much stress there and> > the hing
e eyelets will break after a few dozen hours. Use .063 plate> > and screws
or similar. See Tim's web site to see how he did them.> > > > They broke on
====================> > >
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: How to create epoxy threads |
Thank you for all your answers!
One questions remains open though, if I just have lets say a 3/16 hole how will
I get epoxy/flox through it to make a nice base in the inside of the door. Just
pressing it through the hole won't do the job.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222957#222957
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| Subject: | Re: How to create epoxy threads |
My armrest are larger than normal armrests. I need a solid attachment of the armrest
to the door. I thought about rivnuts and epoxing aluminum inserts in the
door. I came up with a simple attachment that is very solid for my armrest.
I used a scrap piece of aluminum and attached three nutplates on the back side.
Dremeled clearance holes in the door for the nutplates. I then expoxied
and flush riveted the aluminum piece to the door. I plan on adding a strap in
the middle of my door below my armrest for pulling the door down and shut when
latching the door. This attachment provided me with a very solid attachment
point.
Greg...
--------
Greg Hale rv10 -- N210KH
www.nwacaptain.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222959#222959
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/door_armbrace_135.jpg
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: How to create epoxy threads |
Michael;
I built a lock on one door and built a cover for the handle and lock. All
that is holding the fiberglass piece is 6R6 screws. I noticed that when I
applied flox (just slightly thinner than peanut butter) it was enough to
fill the hole and slightly drip (without breaking off) down. When I drill
the 7/64 hole and use the screws to tap the hole the flox is giving it a
little more space to grip onto. it is strong enough that I am unable to move
the cover nor the screws. I really don't think anything stronger is needed
for my application, which is simply a light cover that really should not
need to be removed often.
With the 3/16 hole I think filling it with flox might give you the same
effect, just make sure it is more like peanut butter, another option if your
looking for filling the area around it is flip the door upside down; use a
syringe to squeeze the flox into the hole, cover the hole/flox with plastic;
let it set. the gravity will cause the flox to spread around the area
depending on how thin the flox is will determine how much is spreads, of
course.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 7:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: How to create epoxy threads
> <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Thank you for all your answers!
>
> One questions remains open though, if I just have lets say a 3/16 hole how
> will I get epoxy/flox through it to make a nice base in the inside of the
> door. Just pressing it through the hole won't do the job.
>
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222957#222957
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Preferred tablet |
Michael's really got some great points. I really myself
believe that you won't be happy with a laptop/tablet that
you try to use heavily as a dual-use device. If you get
something with a SSD, which you really almost HAVE to for
in the plane, you're not going to be as thrilled with it
in use as a laptop. Laptops are slow enough compared to
today's desktops as it is, so when shopping for a PC that
you'll use heavily outside of the plane, you're probably
going to want more drive space, more processor, more speed,
and all that good stuff. When going for something to use
in the plane, you will be more concerned with weight,
form factor, battery life, SSD, and those sorts of things.
Yeah, you can find some that will do "ok" dual use, but
you'll probably be sacrificing on one thing or another...
and that will just make you angry in the end.
My motion LE1600 is now old, but the good things about it
compared to some of the new is that the screen resolution
is good, but not super high, like many new notebooks or
even the LE1700. More pixels means slower in graphics,
in many cases. The new stuff is also expensive, whereas
the older can be had pretty cheap. Taking an older,
HP consumer convertable laptop/tablet can be a good way to
go too, if you can get one with a 2.5" drive, because as
Michael pointed out, 2.5" SataII drives are cheap. In my
case, I had a 1.8" drive....those are pretty pricey especially
with the ZIF connector I had...which is why I used CF.
The ZIF 1.8" commercial SSD's are faster than my Pseudo-ssd,
but tons more expensive.
With a tablet, as opposed to something like a 696, you can
go on a vacation and have a PC to get weather, internet,
email, file flight plans, and all that stuff, and you can
pull it out to the hotel with you. So I think it works
great for travelling. I use a silicone roll-up keyboard
with it that is very light and small, too. (less than $10)
So it does quite well for a traveling machine. But, I would
HATE to use it as my sole laptop. In fact, on some trips,
I KNOW I'll be doing a lot of remote access work, and will
use the VPN heavily, so I just bring my laptop in addition.
But that's because that is my primary PC, and if I plan
to do lots of work, I bring it. But, my tablet also can
get me connected via VPN, and for unplanned work, it does
just fine. So it's really handy to just grab a notepad
binder sized thing and just take it with me whenever I go
to the airport. It serves really well, but I don't consider
it a full laptop replacement.
Another area where I think people would be disappointed is
with permanent mounting of something like an EFB tablet.
Even with mounting it on some sort of fixed holder. The
problem is, while in turbulence I can hold it and touch the
screen with the pen and enter fixes, and click links, and
pull up approach plates, if it were hard mounted, I think in
bumps it would be just plain miserable to try to reach out
with a finger or a pen and tap those links or letters.
You would make so many tapping mistakes it would drive you
crazy.
Oh, I did just remember one thing that is nicer about
EFB software than the 696, also. The 696's approach plates
do not fit on the screen in full size without panning
around to see the chart. Check the specs on the screen
resolution and a 696 compares closer to an iphone than
a tablet PC. With a tablet/laptop, you can load an entire
approach plate on the screen and see and read the whole thing.
The chart subscription is more than twice as complete as
the 696, also, for a lower cost, and that is comparing
it at the "EFB" level, which includes EVERYTHING. If you
don't care for geo-referenced charts, there are software
packages that cost a bunch less with much cheaper chart
subscriptions.
Anyway, for most people, we still live in a world where
if you're an avid power user, you need 3-4 devices to
tickle your fancy. A full-sized PC with lots of drive
space and power for video editing, and heavy photo editing,
and any real power work, a reasonably powerful laptop
to do your daily work, and use around the house so you
can check email and get work done while laying in your
lazy boy, a tablet or small convertable laptop for use
in the plane if you want charts and those goodies,
and lastly, I'm now totally in love with the iPhone/iTouch
as an ultra-portable way to keep connected when you
don't feel like bringing all that other stuff along.
There's no way the i"Stuff" will ever replace an EFB package,
but man it's handy when you're on the go.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> If you are going for a new laptop to replace your current one and
> also use in the aircraft you will probably want a convertible. The
> slates are nice as EFB's but can be a pain when you want to use it
> normally. The down side is the convertibles are a bit more bulky. I
> have had one of the first Toshiba convertible tablets to come out for
> many years now and it's always worked well. The Lenovo X61 tablet is
> very nice but like most Lenovo devices they are business orientated
> so are a bit utilitarian and expensive but are bulletproof. The HP
> tx series are more consumer orientated so they are cheaper and have
> lots of bells and whistles but are also bulkier. They are usually
> reviewed well also.
>
> If you are looking at a new laptop to also be used in an aircraft,
> spring the extra cash for a SSD. Tim's idea works well as long as
> you are not using it as a single purpose device and not as a regular
> laptop. CF cards, even the newest cards like the Sandisk Extreme IV
> (45MB/s), are still about 3-5 times slower than the current SATA-1
> (150MB/s) or SATAII (300MB/s) SSD's and hard drives and are
> technically even slower than USB2 (60MB/s and assuming a good thumb
> drive not the kind you get at a trade show). I've also heard of
> corruption of CF's and USB sticks if they are really loaded up from
> say something like opening a Word doc, switching to your email, and
> having a movie playing in the background. Never mind doing something
> like that from a CF card or USB device would probably take several
> minutes.
>
> If your laptop has a standard SATA interface in it you can get lower
> quality SSD's for sub-$100 prices now and they will still be better
> performing than even most hard drives. Here is a 30GB SATAII SSD
> with a USB port also for $75...
>
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227372
>
> Michael
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 7:37 PM To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Preferred tablet
>
>
> John,
>
> My advice would be if you're going to look for something to use
> mainly in the plane, then look at all the models that are available
> from some of the aviation software companies, like Golden Eagle Chart
> Case, and Seattle Avionics. They sell the models that probably work
> best for plane use. I like the motion tablets because you can get
> the View Anywhere and Ultra View Anywhere displays, which are nice
> for in the daylight. Most average laptops/tablets will get real
> washed out in sunlight. So there is benefit to paying more. I just
> got done putting a SSD by using a CF card into my LE1600, and swapped
> memory up to a 2GB module. The CF Card thing cost me about $110, and
> the memory about $25-30. It seems to work pretty good, although in
> terms of current horsepower, the dual-core stuff will blow it away.
> Those LE1600's with ViewAnywhere screens can be had for about $800 or
> so, as a cheap way to get into it. One of the guys at Seattle
> Avionics really loves his convertable tablet...I think it may be a
> fujitsu or something. I think you'll find that opinions and usages
> vary wildly.
>
> While this page has some pretty non-current info on it, I did
> recently update it.
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/IFR/Chart_Software.html
>
> I'm flying with Voyager software, myself, so have no need for paper
> any longer. Interestingly, there was just an article in Aviation
> Consumer about the 696, and after reading that, I am convinced that
> it really is lacking in filling the real needs of what pilots of this
> late decade really need. Turns out they won't ever be doing
> geo-referenced charts on it, and there are literally dozens of
> features that it won't do compared with either of the most popular
> EFB software packages. Either Chart Case or Voyager EFB really blow
> it away in capabilities for the most part. And, it's great to be
> able to use the machine for more than just a GPS.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: How to create epoxy threads |
Pascal, I've also created covers for the inner door hardware.- I made up
some wing spacers that I will JB weld onto the flat portion of the door har
dware.... then drill and tap the wing points to hold the cover plates.- I
'll snap some pics today.- Also put a lock on the pilot side door.
Don McDonald
--- On Mon, 1/5/09, pascal <pascal@rv10builder.net> wrote:
From: pascal <pascal@rv10builder.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: How to create epoxy threads
<pascal@rv10builder.net>
Michael;
I built a lock on one door and built a cover for the handle and lock. All t
hat
is holding the fiberglass piece is 6R6 screws. I noticed that when I applie
d
flox (just slightly thinner than peanut butter) it was enough to fill the h
ole
and slightly drip (without breaking off) down. When I drill the 7/64 hole a
nd
use the screws to tap the hole the flox is giving it a little more space to
grip
onto. it is strong enough that I am unable to move the cover nor the screws
. I
really don't think anything stronger is needed for my application, which is
simply a light cover that really should not need to be removed often.
With the 3/16 hole I think filling it with flox might give you the same eff
ect,
just make sure it is more like peanut butter, another option if your lookin
g for
filling the area around it is flip the door upside down; use a syringe to
squeeze the flox into the hole, cover the hole/flox with plastic; let it se
t.
the gravity will cause the flox to spread around the area depending on how
thin
the flox is will determine how much is spreads, of course.
Pascal
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 7:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: How to create epoxy threads
<rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>
> Thank you for all your answers!
>
> One questions remains open though, if I just have lets say a 3/16 hole ho
w
will I get epoxy/flox through it to make a nice base in the inside of the d
oor.
Just pressing it through the hole won't do the job.
>
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222957#222957
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=0A=0A=0A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Preferred tablet |
The attached is what Tim was referring to, a hard mounted Motion 1700.
As I've done a more thorough search, I'm unfortunately coming to the same
conclusion as Tim's post, namely there is still no one solution. I built a
screaming desktop to render those HD videos and all the other work (this
Linux stuff is kinda cool... different topic). I need a good, not high end
laptop for traveling on business, but that won't do for the EFB usage on the
plane.
However, check out this nice post about the same topic, which I thought
might be helpful. From Richard Eastman, a Sportsman flyer.
======================================
I have been a long-time user of the Motion Computing Tablet. I use it in my
office ... my car ... and my plane. There are a number of software programs
that use the Motion Computing tool ... both as an OEM solution and simply
loading the software onto an independently purchased Motion Computing
platform.
The Motion Computing platform is a superb environment. My first machine is
6 years old at this point and serves as both my back-up AND the file-server
that runs my home network. My current machine is three years old. I run
all the standard Office software on it ... my company's computer programs
... and actually source AOPA's new Internet Flight Planner on it for flight
planning via a Sprint wireless card or a local area network when available.
I have considered putting the Seattle Avionics' Voyager on my back-up for
use in the plane; but the economy has put a bit of a hold on buying new
toys. I was looking at the Voyager software before Glasair's Alan Negrin
moved over there. It's a good package and Seattle Avionics OEM's it on the
Motion Computing platform.
And while I'm pretty impressed with the new Garmin 696, the fact that I have
most of the 696 features in the plane's avionics already, I expect that I'll
end up putting software on my Motion platform.
I should add that I know that the Motion platform can be read in the
airplane as I've actually gone online using the Sprint card while flying to
Apple Valley ... and pulled up the AOPA Flight Planner software en route.
It won't be long before we'll all be able to access flight planning programs
en route via Internet as that technology continues to evolve; particularly
for low-level flying where the GlaStar and Sportsman fly.
>From a maintenance standpoint, I've had virtually no problems with the
Motion Computing platform -- and I'd be considered a "power user" by most
users. I've dropped both of them a number of times ... or had them fall off
of things. The only things that have ever broken were cosmetic plastic
covers.
// Richard
-----Original Message-----
Michael's really got some great points. I really myself believe that you
won't be happy with a laptop/tablet that you try to use heavily as a
dual-use device.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Spread the load CSK washers on wheel pants |
We use them on everything we can. I didn't put the on my -10 wingtips since
there are so many screws there already, but just about everywhere else.
Especially the wheel pants and the four screws at the front of the cowl.
FWIW, I like to use #10 screws up there too. They seem to hold up better.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 4:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Spread the load CSK washers on wheel pants
Has anyone use the "hat" style CSK washers on the wheel pants or on other
fiberglass parts to prevent the fiberglass from cracking. I remember that I
had a bunch of them on my Piper to prevent the cheap ABS from cracking on
the pants?
If you have used them would you consider them to be effective at spreading
the load and preventing cracking?
Spruce sell them pretty cheap
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222941#222941
Message 13
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| Subject: | Spread the load CSK washers on wheel pants |
Mike,
I was just reinstalling the front wheel pant the other day and noticed
that the pant sidewall at the bracket attach screws was particularly
thin. With the pant countersunk to take the -8 screw head, there is
very little material to support the head. Given the amount of vibration
the pant will be subject to on our not so smooth strips, I will be using
Tinnerman washers to reinforce the attach points on the pants.
Cheers,
-187, fiddly bits and paperwork.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Monday, 5 January 2009 10:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Spread the load CSK washers on wheel pants
Has anyone use the "hat" style CSK washers on the wheel pants or on
other fiberglass parts to prevent the fiberglass from cracking. I
remember that I had a bunch of them on my Piper to prevent the cheap ABS
from cracking on the pants?
If you have used them would you consider them to be effective at
spreading the load and preventing cracking?
Spruce sell them pretty cheap
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222941#222941
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Preferred tablet |
Before I retired, we were using Motion Computing LS800's with the
solid state drive as EFB's on the corporate jets I flew. We had
Jeppesen Flitedeck for charts, Citation performance calculator,
Weight and Balance, Operating Manual, and Aircraft Flight Manual on
the machines. Additionally, we had manuals for all of the various
avionics and training materials loaded. We used a bluetooth
connection to display WSI In Flight wx. The machines were just about
flawless and we used them hard. I will probably buy one for my own
EFB in the -10.
David Maib
40559
Phase 1 finished, in the paint shop.
On Jan 5, 2009, at 12:54 PM, John Jessen wrote:
The attached is what Tim was referring to, a hard mounted Motion 1700.
As I've done a more thorough search, I'm unfortunately coming to the
same
conclusion as Tim's post, namely there is still no one solution. I
built a
screaming desktop to render those HD videos and all the other work (this
Linux stuff is kinda cool... different topic). I need a good, not
high end
laptop for traveling on business, but that won't do for the EFB usage
on the
plane.
However, check out this nice post about the same topic, which I thought
might be helpful. From Richard Eastman, a Sportsman flyer.
======================================
I have been a long-time user of the Motion Computing Tablet. I use
it in my
office ... my car ... and my plane. There are a number of software
programs
that use the Motion Computing tool ... both as an OEM solution and
simply
loading the software onto an independently purchased Motion Computing
platform.
The Motion Computing platform is a superb environment. My first
machine is
6 years old at this point and serves as both my back-up AND the file-
server
that runs my home network. My current machine is three years old. I
run
all the standard Office software on it ... my company's computer
programs
... and actually source AOPA's new Internet Flight Planner on it for
flight
planning via a Sprint wireless card or a local area network when
available.
I have considered putting the Seattle Avionics' Voyager on my back-up
for
use in the plane; but the economy has put a bit of a hold on buying new
toys. I was looking at the Voyager software before Glasair's Alan
Negrin
moved over there. It's a good package and Seattle Avionics OEM's it
on the
Motion Computing platform.
And while I'm pretty impressed with the new Garmin 696, the fact that
I have
most of the 696 features in the plane's avionics already, I expect
that I'll
end up putting software on my Motion platform.
I should add that I know that the Motion platform can be read in the
airplane as I've actually gone online using the Sprint card while
flying to
Apple Valley ... and pulled up the AOPA Flight Planner software en
route.
It won't be long before we'll all be able to access flight planning
programs
en route via Internet as that technology continues to evolve;
particularly
for low-level flying where the GlaStar and Sportsman fly.
> From a maintenance standpoint, I've had virtually no problems with the
Motion Computing platform -- and I'd be considered a "power user" by
most
users. I've dropped both of them a number of times ... or had them
fall off
of things. The only things that have ever broken were cosmetic plastic
covers.
// Richard
-----Original Message-----
Michael's really got some great points. I really myself believe that
you
won't be happy with a laptop/tablet that you try to use heavily as a
dual-use device. <IMG_0115 (Large).jpg>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Sport Aviation Article by Lenord Aune |
Received my Sport Aviation mag today and saw an interesting from Lenord
Aune. Thought it funny how he mentions "Tim Olson of RV-10 legend"
granted Tim is a legend and quite deserving of the EAA award, which this
should help make happen, but overall it was great to see an article of
why "Osh or bust" should sometimes be a bust as the only option.
Kudos to Lenord to remind those that there is always next year, and this
should apply, specifically to me, that when the weather looks turbulent
ahead maybe it's time to turn around and land somewhere knowing that the
destination will be reached another day and not "today"
Thanks Lenord!
Pascal
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: How to create epoxy threads |
Hello Michael,
depending on where it is and what load you want to spread onto the shell
you can do following approach to create another hard point. Lay the
shell onto the back, drill your 3/26 hole, use a L shaped hard wire,
where the shorter leg is around 1/2 inch long, use your drill fix the
longer leg in the chuck. Enter through the 3/16 inch hole and start your
drill, the short leg will remove the foam between the inner and outer
shell, move it up and down to get all of it removed and blow it out with
dry air. You know created a 1" hole between the shells which you can
fill with the peanut butter (flox-epoxy) push it in there and let it
cure. This large hard point can hold up quite a bit of load.
Let me know if you need a hands on, was close to your shop December 30th
and missed you there ;o)
Werner
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Thank you for all your answers!
>
> One questions remains open though, if I just have lets say a 3/16 hole how will
I get epoxy/flox through it to make a nice base in the inside of the door.
Just pressing it through the hole won't do the job.
>
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=222957#222957
>
>
>
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