Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:17 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (Wayne Edgerton)
2. 05:59 AM - Re: Audio Jacks (Jim)
3. 06:27 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (gary)
4. 06:28 AM - Re: Questions - Help! (Tim Olson)
5. 06:29 AM - Re: Questions - Help! (Tim Olson)
6. 07:28 AM - Re: Audio Jacks (SteinAir, Inc.)
7. 08:00 AM - Re: Audio Jacks (cloudvalley@comcast.net)
8. 08:34 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
9. 09:07 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (Tim Olson)
10. 09:19 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (Robin Marks)
11. 09:28 AM - RV-10 Winglet Photo (Perry, Phil)
12. 09:56 AM - Re: Questions - Help! (Don McDonald)
13. 10:11 AM - Re: Questions - Help! (Rick Sked)
14. 10:13 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
15. 10:15 AM - Re: Questions - Help! (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
16. 10:20 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (Chuck Weyant)
17. 10:20 AM - BBC NEWS | Science & Environment | First flight of algae-fuelled jet (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
18. 10:27 AM - Air Stop Tubes (Steven Roberts)
19. 10:43 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (linn Walters)
20. 10:54 AM - Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators (tsts4)
21. 11:15 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (Robin Marks)
22. 11:15 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (Perry, Phil)
23. 11:15 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (Tim Olson)
24. 11:15 AM - Re: Old subject revisited (Tim Olson)
25. 11:17 AM - Re: Audio Jacks (cloudvalley@comcast.net)
26. 11:17 AM - Re: Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators (Perry, Phil)
27. 11:40 AM - Re: Questions - Help! (Don McDonald)
28. 11:43 AM - Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators (tsts4)
29. 12:59 PM - Re: Old subject revisited (William Curtis)
30. 12:59 PM - Re: Old subject revisited (Albert Gardner)
31. 02:18 PM - Re: Old subject revisited (Bob Turner)
32. 02:23 PM - Re: Audio Jacks (Bob Turner)
33. 02:37 PM - cowl hinge pins (John Gonzalez)
34. 02:59 PM - Re: cowl hinge pins (Rene Felker)
35. 04:45 PM - Re: Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators (Kelly McMullen)
36. 04:46 PM - Re: Questions - Help! (Kelly McMullen)
37. 06:04 PM - Re: Questions - Help! (Carl Froehlich)
38. 06:06 PM - Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators (tsts4)
39. 06:47 PM - rivethead door block installation help (Ben Westfall)
40. 07:09 PM - Re: rivethead door block installation help (Bob-tcw)
41. 07:37 PM - Re: rivethead door block installation help (Ben Westfall)
42. 08:02 PM - Re: rivethead door block installation help (pascal)
43. 10:46 PM - Re: rivethead door block installation help (Dave Saylor)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Old subject revisited |
Ron,
1. I haven't yet put nitrogen in my tires however yesterday when I went
to the hangar to fly my tires were low again and after some cussing I
made the decision that I'm putting nitrogen in the tires yet this week.
I have a good friend who is an A&P and runs an FBO and he maintained my
previous certified planes and I never had this low tire problem. He
always filled my tires then with nitrogen. He told me it will probably
stop 75% of the air loss I'm experiencing.
I'm going to take off the wheel pants and fly over to a nearby airport
and have a shop over there put in the good stuff. All repair shops
should have nitrogen because they need it for the struts on some of the
planes.
2. Yes I did installed static wicks. There was a write up, I believe
from this forum, on where to install them. I have instructions on this
at my hangar if you can't find it.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Time: 06:22:44 PM PST US
Subject: Old subject revisited
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
Just had an enlightening discussion with a work colleague that
prompts
some questions:
1. Nitrogen in the tires
How many use Nitrogen (as opposed to compressed air) in the tires.
I
have not flown yet, but I notice that my tires regularly deflate
very
slowly. I've now heard that this may be oxygen leakage through
the
rubber membrane Interesting thread on VAF on this. To what
extent does
Nitrogen only in the tires reduce deflation? Any list
experiences?
2. Static wicks
I always believed I did not need them. After all, I was not
building a
plastic plane. After adding paint, I have changed my mind!! I
used two
pack Acrylic Urethane on my paint job. Came out pretty good.
When
vacuuming the paint booth of paint dust, the static build up
inside the
hose and metal fittings is unbelievable. I often see sparks
greater
than 1/2" between any conductor on the vacuum cleaner and a
ground.
Greater than 10kV in this apparently! I expect the static buildup
on
the plastic paint I now have, especially in the hot, dry, dusty
conditions here in South Oz is likely to be quite significant.
Looks
like a bit more work on bonding the control surfaces and adding
some
wicks.
Will it ever end . . . .
Cheers,
Ron
-187 fiddly bits and paperwork (and I really should just finish
and
FLY!!)
Message 2
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John,
Also consider adding an entertainment jack (MP3 / DVD -
1/8" Stereo) for the back seats as well as a power plug (Cigarette
Plug). Run all the wires once.
Just a suggestion.
Jim C
(N312F - Flying)
Do Not Archive
<johngoodman@earthlink.net>
>
> I've searched all
the forums and the web but can't find any clear answers
> for
"the electrically challenged" when it comes to Panel Jacks.
> Went to Aircraft Spruce and picked up two headset jacks and two
microphone
> jacks for the back seats (want to get those wires
pulled and done). Turns
> out they come with three circuits or
two. I know I need the three circuit
> for the headsets if I want
stereo - left, right, and lo. But why would I
> want three for a
back seat microphone? the schematics I've seen seem to
> just show
two wires - mic and PTT. Would the two be for mic and lo, and
>
the three be for mic, PTT, and lo? Do i need the third one for the
voice
> activated intercom feature?
> My limited
understanding is that lo is really just a ground that needs to
>
go to the audio panel instead of the airframe power ground.
> I've
also figured out that shielded-three-core is probably best with the
> shield grounded somewhere at the audio panel. I did see where Bob
Nuckolls
> hints you can use the shield as lo in his book
(although I've already
> bought the 3 core stuff).
> Any
extra gems you might wish to pass on would be greatly appreciated.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 QB
Fuselage, wings finished
> N711JG reserved
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223575#223575
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
List Features Navigator to browse
such as List Un/Subscription,
7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
content also available via the Web Forums!
--> http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
for your generous support!
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
I have had static problems on previous planes and thus bonded and static
wicked the 10. To date no issues, but I don't expect any either.
Gary Specketer
40274 flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 9:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
Just had an enlightening discussion with a work colleague that prompts some
questions:
1. Nitrogen in the tires
How many use Nitrogen (as opposed to compressed air) in the tires. I have
not flown yet, but I notice that my tires regularly deflate very slowly.
I've now heard that this may be oxygen leakage through the rubber membrane
Interesting thread on VAF on this. To what extent does Nitrogen only in the
tires reduce deflation? Any list experiences?
2. Static wicks
I always believed I did not need them. After all, I was not building a
plastic plane. After adding paint, I have changed my mind!! I used two
pack Acrylic Urethane on my paint job. Came out pretty good. When
vacuuming the paint booth of paint dust, the static build up inside the hose
and metal fittings is unbelievable. I often see sparks greater than 1/2"
between any conductor on the vacuum cleaner and a ground. Greater than 10kV
in this apparently! I expect the static buildup on the plastic paint I now
have, especially in the hot, dry, dusty conditions here in South Oz is
likely to be quite significant. Looks like a bit more work on bonding the
control surfaces and adding some wicks.
Will it ever end . . . .
Cheers,
Ron
-187 fiddly bits and paperwork (and I really should just finish and FLY!!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Questions - Help! |
partner14 wrote:
> <building_partner@yahoo.com>
>
> As a newbee to this whole aviation arena, I now have an almost
> completed RV10, with an engine that actually runs.... and quite
> well..... that being said I have some questions and clerifications
> that I need. 1. At start in colder temps (40 deg F) with mineral
> oil for breakin, what would be considered too high of oil pressure?
> I was seeing 91, and then it dropped to 88 as the oil temp rose to
> 107. Both readings at approx. 1300rpm.
>
That is fine, no worries.
> 2. Without the boost pump, I was getting fuel pressure of 34psi..
> normal?
>
Yep, normal too.
> 3. I have dual lightspeed ignition and have the AFS4500 and a Van's
> tach. So far neither has produced any rpm movement. Ideas????? I
> wired one lightspeed to the AFS, and the other to the Van's tach.
>
Can't help you there...sounds like a wiring issue.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
> Really appreciate the help guys.
>
> Don McDonald #40636
>
> -------- Don A. McDonald 40636
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223653#223653
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Questions - Help! |
partner14 wrote:
> <building_partner@yahoo.com>
>
> As a newbee to this whole aviation arena, I now have an almost
> completed RV10, with an engine that actually runs.... and quite
> well..... that being said I have some questions and clerifications
> that I need. 1. At start in colder temps (40 deg F) with mineral
> oil for breakin, what would be considered too high of oil pressure?
> I was seeing 91, and then it dropped to 88 as the oil temp rose to
> 107. Both readings at approx. 1300rpm.
>
That is fine, no worries.
> 2. Without the boost pump, I was getting fuel pressure of 34psi..
> normal?
>
Yep, normal too.
> 3. I have dual lightspeed ignition and have the AFS4500 and a Van's
> tach. So far neither has produced any rpm movement. Ideas????? I
> wired one lightspeed to the AFS, and the other to the Van's tach.
>
Can't help you there...sounds like a wiring issue.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
> Really appreciate the help guys.
>
> Don McDonald #40636
>
> -------- Don A. McDonald 40636
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223653#223653
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Hi Brian,
First let me preface my comments by saying I'm not a fan of the KMA "Audio
Panels". They do work ok, but the don't have an intercom and they aren't
stereo. Is this for a new installation in your RV-10? If so, I'd strongly
encourage you to just file the KMA and go buy a modern audio panel with a
good intercom in it....it'll save you a lot of hassle down the road.
That being said, plugging the stereo cable into a mono jack wouldn't
normally be detrimental (dependin on whether they are physically mono or
stereo jacks). If they are mono jacks, then you may have to leave the
stereo plug out one "click". If they are mono jacks it shouldn't be a
problem. Just depends on the installation and how it was put together...
Sorry I don't have any more definitive answer, but it's not something that
is black/white unless I know all of the facts.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
cloudvalley@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 7:27 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Audio Jacks
Hello Stein,
My wife and I just bought a Garmin 696 for our plane. It has a stereo
output jack for music, a 3.5 mm. We were wondering if you know if the KMA24
audio panel is a stereo unit. There are two 3.5 mm input jacks on the panel
and don't know if it would be detrimental to the 696 unit if we plugged in
the stereo cable to a mono jack, if in fact it is.
Thanks.
Brian Preston
Message 7
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
Ron,
No direct personal experience but I hear that the air stop tubes from Mic
helin or any other Butyl rubber tubes work pretty well to minimize leaking.
I'll probably run Nitrogen in mine but I haven't decided on the delivery
method yet. As I will also transfill my oxy tank I may just get a Nitrogen
tank while I'm at it. You could also take one of those little portable ai
r tanks and go to many tire shops and dealerships and see if they will fill
that up for a couple bucks. Here in the US the big new fad is Nitrogen in
auto tires so almost every dealership or tire place has on site Nitrogen s
eparators to fill customer tires for a nice little fee.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 8:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
Just had an enlightening discussion with a work colleague that prompts some
questions:
1. Nitrogen in the tires
How many use Nitrogen (as opposed to compressed air) in the tires. I have
not flown yet, but I notice that my tires regularly deflate very slowly. I
've now heard that this may be oxygen leakage through the rubber membrane
Interesting thread on VAF on this. To what extent does Nitrogen only in th
e tires reduce deflation? Any list experiences?
2. Static wicks
I always believed I did not need them. After all, I was not building a pla
stic plane. After adding paint, I have changed my mind!! I used two pack
Acrylic Urethane on my paint job. Came out pretty good. When vacuuming th
e paint booth of paint dust, the static build up inside the hose and metal
fittings is unbelievable. I often see sparks greater than 1/2" between any
conductor on the vacuum cleaner and a ground. Greater than 10kV in this a
pparently! I expect the static buildup on the plastic paint I now have, es
pecially in the hot, dry, dusty conditions here in South Oz is likely to be
quite significant. Looks like a bit more work on bonding the control surf
aces and adding some wicks.
Will it ever end . . . .
Cheers,
Ron
-187 fiddly bits and paperwork (and I really should just finish and FLY!!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Old subject revisited |
I have been having great luck since replacing my tubes with
new ones from Desser Tire.
As for what I fill my tires with, I fill mine with a special
mixture....it's a nitrogen rich mixture. 80% N2, and 20%
O2, roughly...along with a trace amount of C02 and some
other minor gasses. I trans-fill it from a compressor
in my hangar, through a special hose with what's called a
"chuck", into my tires. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> Ron,
>
>
>
> No direct personal experience but I hear that the air stop tubes from
> Michelin or any other Butyl rubber tubes work pretty well to minimize
> leaking. Ill probably run Nitrogen in mine but I havent decided on
> the delivery method yet. As I will also transfill my oxy tank I may
> just get a Nitrogen tank while Im at it. You could also take one of
> those little portable air tanks and go to many tire shops and
> dealerships and see if they will fill that up for a couple bucks. Here
> in the US the big new fad is Nitrogen in auto tires so almost every
> dealership or tire place has on site Nitrogen separators to fill
> customer tires for a nice little fee.
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *McGANN, Ron
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 08, 2009 8:20 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Old subject revisited
>
>
>
> Just had an enlightening discussion with a work colleague that prompts
> some questions:
>
> 1. Nitrogen in the tires
> How many use Nitrogen (as opposed to compressed air) in the tires. I
> have not flown yet, but I notice that my tires regularly deflate very
> slowly. I've now heard that this may be oxygen leakage through the
> rubber membrane Interesting thread on VAF on this. To what extent does
> Nitrogen only in the tires reduce deflation? Any list experiences?
>
> 2. Static wicks
> I always believed I did not need them. After all, I was not building a
> plastic plane. After adding paint, I have changed my mind!! I used two
> pack Acrylic Urethane on my paint job. Came out pretty good. When
> vacuuming the paint booth of paint dust, the static build up inside the
> hose and metal fittings is unbelievable. I often see sparks greater
> than 1/2" between any conductor on the vacuum cleaner and a ground.
> Greater than 10kV in this apparently! I expect the static buildup on
> the plastic paint I now have, especially in the hot, dry, dusty
> conditions here in South Oz is likely to be quite significant. Looks
> like a bit more work on bonding the control surfaces and adding some wicks.
>
> Will it ever end . . . .
>
> Cheers,
> Ron
> -187 fiddly bits and paperwork (and I really should just finish and FLY!!)
>
> "Warning:
>
> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
>
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
>
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
>
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
>
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
>
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
>
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
>
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
>
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
>
> your computer."
>
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 10
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| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
Locally it's $5.00/tire. It sure would be nice to have better access to
our tire valves.
Robin
Do Not Archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 8:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
Ron,
No direct personal experience but I hear that the air stop tubes from
Michelin or any other Butyl rubber tubes work pretty well to minimize
leaking. I'll probably run Nitrogen in mine but I haven't decided on
the delivery method yet. As I will also transfill my oxy tank I may
just get a Nitrogen tank while I'm at it. You could also take one of
those little portable air tanks and go to many tire shops and
dealerships and see if they will fill that up for a couple bucks. Here
in the US the big new fad is Nitrogen in auto tires so almost every
dealership or tire place has on site Nitrogen separators to fill
customer tires for a nice little fee.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 8:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
Just had an enlightening discussion with a work colleague that prompts
some questions:
1. Nitrogen in the tires
How many use Nitrogen (as opposed to compressed air) in the tires. I
have not flown yet, but I notice that my tires regularly deflate very
slowly. I've now heard that this may be oxygen leakage through the
rubber membrane Interesting thread on VAF on this. To what extent does
Nitrogen only in the tires reduce deflation? Any list experiences?
2. Static wicks
I always believed I did not need them. After all, I was not building a
plastic plane. After adding paint, I have changed my mind!! I used two
pack Acrylic Urethane on my paint job. Came out pretty good. When
vacuuming the paint booth of paint dust, the static build up inside the
hose and metal fittings is unbelievable. I often see sparks greater
than 1/2" between any conductor on the vacuum cleaner and a ground.
Greater than 10kV in this apparently! I expect the static buildup on
the plastic paint I now have, especially in the hot, dry, dusty
conditions here in South Oz is likely to be quite significant. Looks
like a bit more work on bonding the control surfaces and adding some
wicks.
Will it ever end . . . .
Cheers,
Ron
-187 fiddly bits and paperwork (and I really should just finish and
FLY!!)
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV-10 Winglet Photo |
It seems like I heard of an RV-10 with winglets awhile back. If I
recall correctly, I think it was in Oregon.
Does anyone have a photo of the plane?
Stop the flames! :)
I'm not wanting to build them for my plane. I'm just looking to pass
along the photo.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Questions - Help! |
Rick, I have found that the BEST info available usually comes from our RV c
rowd..... with, of course, the exception of a few,,,, no finger pointing in
tended.--One friend, an RV6 pilot, was really concerned about both pres
sures.- But according to Lycoming, they are normal.- So I just wanted t
o get a few more opinions.--
Don
--- On Thu, 1/8/09, ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote
:
From: ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
Have you looked at your POH? It should right next to the registration in t
he
left side pocket
Rick S
40185
Do not archive
------Original Message------
From: partner14
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Jan 8, 2009 8:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
<building_partner@yahoo.com>
As a newbee to this whole aviation arena, I now have an almost completed RV
10,
with an engine that actually runs.... and quite well..... that being said
I
have some questions and clerifications that I need.
1. At start in colder temps (40 deg F) with mineral oil for breakin, what
would be considered too high of oil pressure? I was seeing 91, and then i
t
dropped to 88 as the oil temp rose to 107. Both readings at approx. 1300r
pm.
2. Without the boost pump, I was getting fuel pressure of 34psi.. normal?
3. I have dual lightspeed ignition and have the AFS4500 and a Van's tach.
So far neither has produced any rpm movement. Ideas?????
I wired one lightspeed to the AFS, and the other to the Van's tach.
Really appreciate the help guys.
Don McDonald
#40636
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223653#223653
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
=0A=0A=0A
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Questions - Help! |
I know!! Sorry, =C2-I just couldn't resist poking some sarcastic fun...Es
pecially since all I've been doing is sanding and filling lately. Regarding
your RPM problem,=C2- on the Vans tach did you install the mag sensor on
the correct port on the left=C2-mag? IIRC there is only one port for the
sensor that will work but there are two ports. =C2-I would bet the wirin
g is not correct on the lightspeed but it may be an issue with the setup on
the AFS, Call Rob Hickman at AFS, =C2-he will have that answer for you f
or sure.
Rick
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don McDonald" <building_partner@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, January 9, 2009 9:54:50 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
Rick, I have found that the BEST info available usually comes from our RV c
rowd..... with, of course, the exception of a few,,,, no finger pointing in
tended.=C2-=C2-One friend, an RV6 pilot, was really concerned about bot
h pressures.=C2- But according to Lycoming, they are normal.=C2- So I j
ust wanted to get a few more opinions.=C2-=C2-
Don
--- On Thu, 1/8/09, ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote
:
From: ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
Have you looked at your POH? It should right next to the registration in t
he
left side pocket
Rick S
40185
Do not archive
------Original Message------
From: partner14
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Jan 8, 2009 8:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
<building_partner@yahoo.com>
As a newbee to this whole aviation arena, I now have an almost completed RV
10,
with an engine that actually runs.... and quite well..... that being said
I
have some questions and clerifications that I need.
1. At start in colder temps (40 deg F) with mineral oil for breakin, what
would be considered too high of oil pressure? I was seeing 91, and then i
t
dropped to 88 as the oil temp rose to 107. Both readings at approx. 1300r
pm.
2. Without the boost pump, I was getting fuel pressure of 34psi.. normal?
3. I have dual lightspeed ignition and have the AFS4500 and a Van's tach.
So far neither has produced any rpm movement. Ideas?????
I wired one lightspeed to the AFS, and the other to the Van's tach.
Really appreciate the help guys.
Don McDonald
#40636
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223653#223653
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 14
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| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
That's cool, you mix that yourself? The stuff I normally use is 78.08% nitrogen,
20.95% oxygen, 0.93% argon, 0.038% carbon dioxide, and trace amounts of other
gases. :-P LMAO
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
I have been having great luck since replacing my tubes with
new ones from Desser Tire.
As for what I fill my tires with, I fill mine with a special
mixture....it's a nitrogen rich mixture. 80% N2, and 20%
O2, roughly...along with a trace amount of C02 and some
other minor gasses. I trans-fill it from a compressor
in my hangar, through a special hose with what's called a
"chuck", into my tires. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Questions - Help! |
As long as it's within engine design tolerances I wouldn't lose any sleep o
ver it.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
Rick, I have found that the BEST info available usually comes from our RV c
rowd..... with, of course, the exception of a few,,,, no finger pointing in
tended. One friend, an RV6 pilot, was really concerned about both pressure
s. But according to Lycoming, they are normal. So I just wanted to get a
few more opinions.
Don
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Old subject revisited |
Old subject revisitedI use nitrogen in all my tires, RV9A, RV10,
motorcycles, cars, bicycles, etc. They still deflate but noticebly (by
50% probably) slower. Got some old hospital O2 regulators (distributed
the extras to some flying buds too) and bought a tank, hose and fill
from the local gas distributor. I think the cost was about $150 total!
Chuck
From: Robin Marks
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 9:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
Locally it's $5.00/tire. It sure would be nice to have better access to
our tire valves.
Robin
Do Not Archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 8:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
Ron,
No direct personal experience but I hear that the air stop tubes from
Michelin or any other Butyl rubber tubes work pretty well to minimize
leaking. I'll probably run Nitrogen in mine but I haven't decided on
the delivery method yet. As I will also transfill my oxy tank I may
just get a Nitrogen tank while I'm at it. You could also take one of
those little portable air tanks and go to many tire shops and
dealerships and see if they will fill that up for a couple bucks. Here
in the US the big new fad is Nitrogen in auto tires so almost every
dealership or tire place has on site Nitrogen separators to fill
customer tires for a nice little fee.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 8:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
Just had an enlightening discussion with a work colleague that prompts
some questions:
1. Nitrogen in the tires
How many use Nitrogen (as opposed to compressed air) in the tires. I
have not flown yet, but I notice that my tires regularly deflate very
slowly. I've now heard that this may be oxygen leakage through the
rubber membrane Interesting thread on VAF on this. To what extent does
Nitrogen only in the tires reduce deflation? Any list experiences?
2. Static wicks
I always believed I did not need them. After all, I was not building a
plastic plane. After adding paint, I have changed my mind!! I used two
pack Acrylic Urethane on my paint job. Came out pretty good. When
vacuuming the paint booth of paint dust, the static build up inside the
hose and metal fittings is unbelievable. I often see sparks greater
than 1/2" between any conductor on the vacuum cleaner and a ground.
Greater than 10kV in this apparently! I expect the static buildup on
the plastic paint I now have, especially in the hot, dry, dusty
conditions here in South Oz is likely to be quite significant. Looks
like a bit more work on bonding the control surfaces and adding some
wicks.
Will it ever end . . . .
Cheers,
Ron
-187 fiddly bits and paperwork (and I really should just finish and
FLY!!)
"Warning:The information contained in this email and any attached files
isconfidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
intendedrecipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or
anyattachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this
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beentaken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus
free,however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not
thesender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure
viruschecks are completed before installing any data sent in this email
toyour computer." http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comht
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 17
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| Subject: | BBC NEWS | Science & Environment | First flight of algae-fuelled |
jet
Interesting news. Check some of the other articles around aviation and biofuels
on the right of the page also.....
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/7817849.stm
Michael
Do not archive
Message 18
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I put the Michelin Air Stop tubes in my Mooney eight months ago. They are
filled with Georgia air (that's where they were installed). So far they
have been perfect. The previous tubes needed topped-off about once a month,
a real PITA.
Steve Roberts
N2700W 1966 M20E 'Ms. Obsession' KMOR Morristown, TN
(still lurking, no suitable place to build my RV-10)
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Old subject revisited |
All you need to do is replace van's straight valve tubes with 90 degree
valve tubes available from Desser. A small hole large enough for a truck
tire extension takes care of that little task. I haven't done it yet,
but I will before I assemble the wheels/tires.
Linn
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Locally its $5.00/tire. It sure would be nice to have better access
> to our tire valves.
>
> Robin
>
> Do Not Archive
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators |
Kelly,
I'm confused here. The plans steps you listed don't jive with mine. Why are you
dimpling the leading edge rivet holes? The rivets called out are AD-41s which
don't need a dimple.
Also the templates in the plans are full sized. That's why the steps say cut out
and glue to the foam blocks-- you'll get 2 ribs from each block. Personally
I made copies so my plans would always have the originals in case I needed to
make new ones in the future.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223720#223720
Message 21
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| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
Linn,
We looked at the 90 degree valve extension but they would not
work (too close to the center shaft and extra spinning weight). You are
saying that there are tubes with built in 90 degree valves?
http://shop.desser.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT (did not
look for exact size)
Rats... I just found them. Sure wish I knew about them before the plane
went to paint... I would have bored an access hole.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
<pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
All you need to do is replace van's straight valve tubes with 90 degree
valve tubes available from Desser. A small hole large enough for a truck
tire extension takes care of that little task. I haven't done it yet,
but I will before I assemble the wheels/tires.
Linn
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Locally it's $5.00/tire. It sure would be nice to have better access
> to our tire valves.
>
> Robin
>
> Do Not Archive
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
How strange. That sounds like the same stuff I put into my Lycoming....
-----Original Message-----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) [mailto:rvbuilder@sausen.net]
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 12:12 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
--> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
That's cool, you mix that yourself? The stuff I normally use is
78.08% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen, 0.93% argon, 0.038% carbon dioxide, and
trace amounts of other gases. :-P LMAO
Michael
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
I have been having great luck since replacing my tubes with new ones
from Desser Tire.
As for what I fill my tires with, I fill mine with a special
mixture....it's a nitrogen rich mixture. 80% N2, and 20% O2,
roughly...along with a trace amount of C02 and some
other minor gasses. I trans-fill it from a compressor
in my hangar, through a special hose with what's called a
"chuck", into my tires. ;)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Old subject revisited |
:) I was hoping that didn't go over too many heads. ;)
Sorry I was a little rough on the percentages. :)
For what it's worth, since I started with the different
tubes...in my case they were 15/600-6 "LEAKGUARD"
I usually only fill my tires in the early spring at
condition inspection time, and then perhaps once
in the summer and/or fall. Really, I haven't been
super bothered by the lack of air fill access in the
wheel fairings, either, because as far as I'm concerned,
we should be looking inside the fairings and inspecting
brakes and things like that at about the same interval
that I end up adding air to the tires. If I had
super-quick tire fill access, I'd have to fight the
urge to skip a brake check. Which reminds me, I'm
coming up to that time again, having 170 hours on the
first set and now I'm at 430+.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> That's cool, you mix that yourself? The stuff I normally use is
> 78.08% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen, 0.93% argon, 0.038% carbon dioxide,
> and trace amounts of other gases. :-P LMAO
>
> Michael Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:06 AM To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
>
>
> I have been having great luck since replacing my tubes with new ones
> from Desser Tire.
>
> As for what I fill my tires with, I fill mine with a special
> mixture....it's a nitrogen rich mixture. 80% N2, and 20% O2,
> roughly...along with a trace amount of C02 and some other minor
> gasses. I trans-fill it from a compressor in my hangar, through a
> special hose with what's called a "chuck", into my tires. ;)
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Old subject revisited |
PS: I think maybe we should use Helium. It may leak faster,
but we should get more useful load that way.
:)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> That's cool, you mix that yourself? The stuff I normally use is
> 78.08% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen, 0.93% argon, 0.038% carbon dioxide,
> and trace amounts of other gases. :-P LMAO
>
> Michael Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:06 AM To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
>
>
> I have been having great luck since replacing my tubes with new ones
> from Desser Tire.
>
> As for what I fill my tires with, I fill mine with a special
> mixture....it's a nitrogen rich mixture. 80% N2, and 20% O2,
> roughly...along with a trace amount of C02 and some other minor
> gasses. I trans-fill it from a compressor in my hangar, through a
> special hose with what's called a "chuck", into my tires. ;)
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying do not archive
>
Message 25
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|
Hello Stein, (sending this again, as it appeared not to work right the firs
t time)
Thank you for the answer. We have been using it, and although It works ok,
I didn't know if using a stereo cable could "hurt" the 696 when plugging
=C2-it into a mono jack. I wish we had a different audio panel, but=C2-
the story is that this in a 79 Grumman Tiger we just bought last May. Befor
e
=C2-that, we owned an RV10 tail kit and completed the empennage in
a class here in Eugene, Oregon=C2-but realized how hard it would be on bo
th of us
to complete the project, given that I have carpel tunnel and our small farm
=C2-here is not sellling. We may buy an RV-10 that someone has brought cl
oser
to completion in the future, should our farm sell, because it is such a
great airplane!
In the meantime we have this affordable Tiger to fly..maybe we shouldn't ha
ve
=C2-put in a 430WAAS, GI-106A and GMX200 that we just had done a few mont
hs
=C2-back, before we knew how bad the economy was getting.. Now this Tiger
is becoming less affordable..at least it's a low-time Tiger.
Thanks Stein. Who knows what the future will hold..
Brian Preston
----- Original Message -----
From: "Inc. SteinAir" <stein@steinair.com>
Sent: Friday, January 9, 2009 7:24:25 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Audio Jacks
=EF=BB
Hi Brian,
First let me preface my comments by saying I'm not a fan of the KMA "Audio
Panels".=C2- They do work ok, but the don't have an intercom and they are
n't stereo.=C2- Is this for a new installation in your RV-10? If so, I'd
strongly encourage you to just file the KMA and go buy a modern audio panel
with a good intercom in it....it'll save you a lot of hassle down the road
.=C2-
That being said, plugging the stereo cable into a mono jack wouldn't normal
ly be detrimental (dependin on whether they are physically mono or stereo j
acks).=C2- If they are mono jacks, then you may have to leave the stereo
plug out one "click".=C2- If they are mono jacks it shouldn't be a proble
m.=C2- Just depends on the installation and how it was put together...
Sorry I don't have any more definitive answer, but it's not something that
is black/white unless I know all of the facts.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of cloudvalley@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Audio Jacks
Hello Stein,
=C2-My wife and I just bought a Garmin 696 for our plane. It has a stereo
output jack for music, a 3.5 mm. We were wondering if you know if the KMA2
4 audio panel is a stereo unit. There are two 3.5 mm input jacks on the pan
el and don't know if it would be detrimental to the 696 unit if we plugged
in=C2-the stereo cable to=C2-a mono jack, if in fact it is.
Thanks.
Brian Preston
==
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators |
I think he's talking about slightly rolling the trailing edges of the
control surface to close any gaps that might exist around the
wedge-shaped insert.
I don't think he's talking about the big broom-stick roll on the
trailing edge.
-----Original Message-----
From: tsts4 [mailto:tsts4@verizon.net]
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 12:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators
Kelly,
I'm confused here. The plans steps you listed don't jive with mine. Why
are you dimpling the leading edge rivet holes? The rivets called out
are AD-41s which don't need a dimple.
Also the templates in the plans are full sized. That's why the steps
say cut out and glue to the foam blocks-- you'll get 2 ribs from each
block. Personally I made copies so my plans would always have the
originals in case I needed to make new ones in the future.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223720#223720
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Questions - Help! |
No apologies necessary.... especially from you.- What would this site be
without your wit and humor!
Don
--- On Fri, 1/9/09, Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote:
From: Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
#yiv1542085809 {font-family:'Times New Roman';font-size:12pt;color:#000000;
}
I know!! Sorry, -I just couldn't resist poking some sarcastic fun...Espec
ially since all I've been doing is sanding and filling lately. Regarding yo
ur RPM problem,- on the Vans tach did you install the mag sensor on the c
orrect port on the left-mag? IIRC there is only one port for the sensor t
hat will work but there are two ports. -I would bet the wiring is not cor
rect on the lightspeed but it may be an issue with the setup on the AFS, Ca
ll Rob Hickman at AFS, -he will have that answer for you for sure.
Rick
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don McDonald" <building_partner@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, January 9, 2009 9:54:50 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
Rick, I have found that the BEST info available usually comes from our RV c
rowd..... with, of course, the exception of a few,,,, no finger pointing in
tended.--One friend, an RV6 pilot, was really concerned about both pres
sures.- But according to Lycoming, they are normal.- So I just wanted t
o get a few more opinions.--
Don
--- On Thu, 1/8/09, ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote
:
From: ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
Have you looked at your POH? It should right next to the registration in t
he
left side pocket
Rick S
40185
Do not archive
------Original Message------
From: partner14
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Jan 8, 2009 8:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
<building_partner@yahoo.com>
As a newbee to this whole aviation arena, I now have an almost completed RV
10,
with an engine that actually runs.... and quite well..... that being said
I
have some questions and clerifications that I need.
1. At start in colder temps (40 deg F) with mineral oil for breakin, what
would be considered too high of oil pressure? I was seeing 91, and then i
t
dropped to 88 as the oil temp rose to 107. Both readings at approx. 1300r
pm.
2. Without the boost pump, I was getting fuel pressure of 34psi.. normal?
3. I have dual lightspeed ignition and have the AFS4500 and a Van's tach.
So far neither has produced any rpm movement. Ideas?????
I wired one lightspeed to the AFS, and the other to the Van's tach.
Really appreciate the help guys.
Don McDonald
#40636
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223653#223653
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
=0A=0A=0A
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators |
Ahhhh. My mistake--apologies. Not the leading edge but the trailing edge. I forgot
that you put a bend on that edge as well. I seem to recall that I just went
slow and it turned out fine (I have the vise grip style edge roller).
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223728#223728
Message 29
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| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
My mix is about the same (78% nitrogen, 21% Oxygen, 0.9% argon, 0.04% carbon dioxide
and 0.06% other) but contains a bit more methane in the trace gases cause
of all the beans eaten around here.
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> That's cool, you mix that yourself? The stuff I normally use is 78.08% nitrogen,
20.95% oxygen, 0.93% argon, 0.038% carbon dioxide, and trace amounts of
other gases. :-P LMAO
>
> Michael
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:06 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Old subject revisited
>
>
> I have been having great luck since replacing my tubes with
> new ones from Desser Tire.
>
> As for what I fill my tires with, I fill mine with a special
> mixture....it's a nitrogen rich mixture. 80% N2, and 20%
> O2, roughly...along with a trace amount of C02 and some
> other minor gasses. I trans-fill it from a compressor
> in my hangar, through a special hose with what's called a
> "chuck", into my tires. ;)
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Old subject revisited |
I bought the tubes with the 90 deg stems but I didn't like the way they fit
the wheel. The stem on the tube came out of the center whereas the wheel has
a hole offset to the side. Then stem was forced out of its natural path in
order to fit the wheel. It appears the wheel needs to be altered to make the
90 deg stem fit. Maybe all 90 deg tubes are not the same. I don't think
there is sufficient room for any screw-on extension to work.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Linn,
We looked at the 90 degree valve extension but they would not
work (too close to the center shaft and extra spinning weight). You are
saying that there are tubes with built in 90 degree valves?
http://shop.desser.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT (did not
look for exact size)
Rats... I just found them. Sure wish I knew about them before the plane
went to paint... I would have bored an access hole.
Robin
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Old subject revisited |
As Tim and others point out, if the oxygen really diffused much faster than nitrogen,
all you'd have to do is overfill the tires by 20%, and, after a while,
they'd be at the correct pressure and 100% nitrogen. (Or let then deflate 20%,
the refill with air. You'd then be at 96% nitrogen).
I believe this owt started because the airlines use nitrogen in their tires. But
that's to reduce the fire risk (not leakage problems) following a rejected takeoff
when the tires can get really hot (and sometimes blow a "fuse plug").
The new leakstop tubes are a real improvement.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223759#223759
Message 32
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John,
Not sure I saw the answer to your specific question.
The standard mike configuration uses the tip for PTT, and the mike is on the middle
or "ring" connection (and both use "ground" for the return). So you cannot
use a 2 connector jack, you need the 3 connector one. But for the rear seats
you can leave the tip connection open, unless you want them to be able to transmit!.
As others noted, this is an unusual jack, 0.230".
To eliminate noise from ground loops, "float" the jacks. Buy pairs of insulating
washers, one with a rib which goes into the hole (Stein sells them), and use
them to electrically isolate the jack from the frame. Use one of the wires inside
your cable to carry the ground back to the audio panel. Connect the shield
to ground only at the audio panel, leave it float (cut if off) at the jack end.
Do the same for the headphone jacks.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223761#223761
Message 33
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In previous emails it was discussed that the hinge pinsthe come with the SS
hinges used for the cowls need to be replaced with a different pin. WHich
pin needs to be used=2C it is not stated on the plans and is this smaller p
in only used on the top hinges or the side hinges also??? There is not enou
gh provided in the kit for both if it is the SSP-120 which is smaller than
the one inside the hinges. There is one long length which is of much smalle
r diameter but that seems too narrow.ThanksJOhn
Message 34
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Just from memory...small pins on top, it is a sizeable diameter difference.
You will need that to be able to make the turn. Larger pins on the side and
bottom. Do not use the AL pins..they will gall the hinge if you try to pull
them in and out with the hinge under stress...ask me how I know.
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 3:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cowl hinge pins
In previous emails it was discussed that the hinge pinsthe come with the SS
hinges used for the cowls need to be replaced with a different pin. WHich
pin needs to be used, it is not stated on the plans and is this smaller pin
only used on the top hinges or the side hinges also??? There is not enough
provided in the kit for both if it is the SSP-120 which is smaller than the
one inside the hinges. There is one long length which is of much smaller
diameter but that seems too narrow.
Thanks
JOhn
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators |
Correct.
Re the foam ribs, Copying the plans introduces a dimension change,
because unless you change the enlargement, most copiers add 2%
enlargement, and how does one know the originals from Van aren't a
copy of a copy?
On Fri, Jan 9, 2009 at 12:15 PM, Perry, Phil <Phil.Perry@netapp.com> wrote:
>
> I think he's talking about slightly rolling the trailing edges of the
> control surface to close any gaps that might exist around the
> wedge-shaped insert.
>
> I don't think he's talking about the big broom-stick roll on the
> trailing edge.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tsts4 [mailto:tsts4@verizon.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 12:53 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators
>
>
> Kelly,
> I'm confused here. The plans steps you listed don't jive with mine. Why
> are you dimpling the leading edge rivet holes? The rivets called out
> are AD-41s which don't need a dimple.
>
> Also the templates in the plans are full sized. That's why the steps
> say cut out and glue to the foam blocks-- you'll get 2 ribs from each
> block. Personally I made copies so my plans would always have the
> originals in case I needed to make new ones in the future.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223720#223720
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Questions - Help! |
Lycoming permits the 4 cylinder version, IO-360 in new Cessna 172s to
run over 100 psi oil pressure. As far as I know, there is nothing
special done to contain that extra pressure.
On Fri, Jan 9, 2009 at 10:54 AM, Don McDonald
<building_partner@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Rick, I have found that the BEST info available usually comes from our RV
> crowd..... with, of course, the exception of a few,,,, no finger pointing
> intended. One friend, an RV6 pilot, was really concerned about both
> pressures. But according to Lycoming, they are normal. So I just wanted to
> get a few more opinions.
> Don
>
>
> --- On Thu, 1/8/09, ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>
> From: ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
> To: "Rv" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Thursday, January 8, 2009, 9:23 PM
>
>
> Have you looked at your POH? It should right next to the registration in
> the
> left side pocket
>
> Rick S
> 40185
> Do not archive
> ------Original Message------
> From: partner14
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Jan 8, 2009 8:44 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
>
> <building_partner@yahoo.com
>>
>
> As a newbee to this whole aviation arena, I now have an almost completed
> RV10,
> with an engine that actually runs.... and quite well..... that being said I
> have some questions and clerifications that I need.
> 1. At start in colder temps (40 deg F) with mineral oil for breakin, what
> would be considered too high of oil pressure? I was seeing 91, and then it
> dropped to 88 as the oil temp rose to 107. Both readings at approx.
> 1300rpm.
>
> 2. Without the boost pump, I was getting fuel pressure of 34psi.. normal?
>
> 3. I have dual lightspeed ignition and have the AFS4500 and a Van's tach.
> So far neither has produced any rpm movement. Ideas?????
> I wired one lightspeed to the AFS, and the other to the Van's tach.
>
> Really appreciate the help guys.
>
> Don McDonald
> #40636
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223653#223653
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Questions - Help! |
I have dual Lightspeed ignition on my 8A. I had a no RPM indication when I
first connected one to my Grand Rapids EIS. A call to Grand Rapids produced
a solution to change one resistor on the EIS board. Problem solved. You
may need to do the same with your AFS4500.
I also have a Vans tach but it comes off an engine sensor mounted in the
standard tach port on the accessory case, not the ignition.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
Lycoming permits the 4 cylinder version, IO-360 in new Cessna 172s to
run over 100 psi oil pressure. As far as I know, there is nothing
special done to contain that extra pressure.
On Fri, Jan 9, 2009 at 10:54 AM, Don McDonald
<building_partner@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Rick, I have found that the BEST info available usually comes from our RV
> crowd..... with, of course, the exception of a few,,,, no finger pointing
> intended. One friend, an RV6 pilot, was really concerned about both
> pressures. But according to Lycoming, they are normal. So I just wanted
to
> get a few more opinions.
> Don
>
>
> --- On Thu, 1/8/09, ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
wrote:
>
> From: ricksked@embarqmail.com <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
> To: "Rv" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Thursday, January 8, 2009, 9:23 PM
>
>
> Have you looked at your POH? It should right next to the registration in
> the
> left side pocket
>
> Rick S
> 40185
> Do not archive
> ------Original Message------
> From: partner14
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Jan 8, 2009 8:44 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Questions - Help!
>
> <building_partner@yahoo.com
>>
>
> As a newbee to this whole aviation arena, I now have an almost completed
> RV10,
> with an engine that actually runs.... and quite well..... that being said
I
> have some questions and clerifications that I need.
> 1. At start in colder temps (40 deg F) with mineral oil for breakin,
what
> would be considered too high of oil pressure? I was seeing 91, and then
it
> dropped to 88 as the oil temp rose to 107. Both readings at approx.
> 1300rpm.
>
> 2. Without the boost pump, I was getting fuel pressure of 34psi.. normal?
>
> 3. I have dual lightspeed ignition and have the AFS4500 and a Van's tach.
> So far neither has produced any rpm movement. Ideas?????
> I wired one lightspeed to the AFS, and the other to the Van's tach.
>
> Really appreciate the help guys.
>
> Don McDonald
> #40636
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223653#223653
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Erroneous Plans sequence on elevators |
My HP all-in-one made copies exactly the same size as the plans (I checked)-- I
guess I got lucky. As to whether the plans are copies of copies, I don't know.
There's an easy way to check. The forward end of the ribs fit in between
the rear spar flanges. Just measure the distance between the flanges and compare
to the width of the rib template. I bet it's pretty darn close. All I can
say is I followed the plans and mine fit fine, and in 5 years since the -10
was released I don't recall anyone ever posting an issue with the templates here
or over at VAF. Granted, there can always be a first time, but I wouldn't
worry too much about it--build on!
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=223799#223799
Message 39
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| Subject: | rivethead door block installation help |
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door
blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut so the
ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle
completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks
on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door
pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing
not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but
I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: rivethead door block installation help |
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so
the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the
doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had
the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I
machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Westfall
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 9:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero
door blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut
so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the
door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the
delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance
between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead
blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin
tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down
50% or so but I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 3755 (20090109) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
===========
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | rivethead door block installation help |
So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude
through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver
blocks?
_____
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the
magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,
then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper
clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about
0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door
blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut so the
ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle
completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks
on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door
pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing
not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but
I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: rivethead door block installation help |
Ben;
with my ends basically are .050 passed the blocks/ close to flush with
the seals where the round tip is protruding. I go through the fusellage
about half-way of the magnetic pin in the closed position. I'll confirm
this weekend.
I'll need to measure the blocks but I estimate that there is a fair
amount that gets removed to fit when I put the delrin (stock) blocks
next to the aftermarket blocks. I have the Iflyrv10 version.
Pascal
From: Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins
protrude through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the
receiver blocks?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so
the magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the
doors, then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had
the proper clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I
machined about 0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero
door blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut
so the ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the
door handle completely retracted the tips still stick out past the
delrin guide blocks on the doors. There is barely enough clearance
between the retracted door pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead
blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin
tubing not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down
50% or so but I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 3755 (20090109) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
===========
Message 43
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| Subject: | rivethead door block installation help |
Ben,
I was able to rig the pins so they went through the blocks and the door
frame. I let the pin protrude from the door about 3/16" when it's fully
retracted. It still clears the door frame, and it gives the pin a little
head start to fully engage the frame.
I also put two additional notches in the plate that catches the rollpin/stop
so the handle "locks" not just in the closed position but also in the fully
open position. The stock notches are are roughly 9:00 and 3:00. The new
notches are at about 12:00 and 6:00.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 7:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: rivethead door block installation help
So when you latch the door to the locked position do your door pins protrude
through the aluminum of the fuselage or are they only in the receiver
blocks?
_____
Ben, I installed the rivethead pins and blocks. I trimed the tubes so the
magnetic head protruded about .050 past the delrin block on the doors,
then I machined the back off the receiver blocks until I had the proper
clearance for closing the doors, If I remeber correctly, I machined about
0.100 off of each receiver blocks.
-Bob Newman
My question for those of you that have installed the rivethead-aero door
blocks. How did you make them fit?
I've trimmed the door pin tubing flush at the base of van's angle cut so the
ends are square to accept the threaded magnetic tip. With the door handle
completely retracted the tips still stick out past the delrin guide blocks
on the doors. There is barely enough clearance between the retracted door
pins and the fiberglass top w/o the rivethead blocks installed.
I don't want to trim the door pins any shorter or they won't protrude
through the holes in the fuselage door frame very much. I'd assume for
strength reasons you really want the closing force on the door pin tubing
not the threaded in tip. I can thin the rivethead blocks down 50% or so but
I'd bet they would still be too wide to get past the pins.
Curious what others have done?
-Ben Westfall
#40579
I have to say the doors are a boat load of work that never ends.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3755 (20090109) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
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