Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:12 AM - Re: Maximum Panel Hieght (speckter@comcast.net)
2. 07:41 AM - Re: Maximum Panel Hieght (SteinAir, Inc.)
3. 07:59 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Axle (AirMike)
4. 08:16 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Axle (Lew Gallagher)
5. 08:42 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Axle (orchidman)
6. 08:50 AM - Transporting Fuselage (tgesele@optonline.net)
7. 08:54 AM - Re: Re: Nose Wheel Axle (John Gonzalez)
8. 09:05 AM - Re: Transporting Fuselage (Lew Gallagher)
9. 09:05 AM - Re: Re: Nose Wheel Axle (Tim Olson)
10. 09:10 AM - Tailcone Question (Perry, Phil)
11. 09:11 AM - Re: Re: Nose Wheel Axle (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 09:12 AM - Re: Re: Nose Wheel Axle (Tim Olson)
13. 09:19 AM - Re: Tailcone Question (Rick Sked)
14. 09:24 AM - Re: Re: Transporting Fuselage (Rick Sked)
15. 09:34 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Axle (Lew Gallagher)
16. 09:46 AM - Re: Re: Nose Wheel Axle (pascal)
17. 09:56 AM - Re: Re: Nose Wheel Axle (Tim Olson)
18. 10:00 AM - Re: Re: Nose Wheel Axle (Scott Schmidt)
19. 10:19 AM - Re: Wheel pants install - timing and helpful hints (Jim Berry)
20. 10:40 AM - Re: Tailcone Question (Perry, Phil)
21. 11:12 AM - Re: Nitrogen in Tires (nukeflyboy)
22. 11:21 AM - Re: Re: Nose Wheel Axle (Steven DiNieri)
23. 03:05 PM - Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts (David Hertner)
24. 03:05 PM - Re: F-10110-R? (Gwayne)
25. 03:43 PM - Re: Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts (John Gonzalez)
26. 04:38 PM - gas strut installation gotcha (Ben Westfall)
27. 05:50 PM - Fuse Stands (Perry, Phil)
28. 06:23 PM - Battery Chassis Grounding... (Matt Dralle)
29. 06:29 PM - Re: Battery Chassis Grounding... (Miller John)
30. 06:45 PM - Re: Tailcone Question (MauleDriver)
31. 07:08 PM - Re: Battery Chassis Grounding... (MauleDriver)
32. 07:18 PM - Re: Fuse Stands (MauleDriver)
33. 07:29 PM - Re: Fuse Stands (Neal George)
34. 08:01 PM - Re: gas strut installation gotcha (John Gonzalez)
35. 08:04 PM - Re: Tailcone Question (John Gonzalez)
36. 08:18 PM - flexible fuel lines (dogsbark@comcast.net)
37. 08:30 PM - Re: Fuse Stands (William Curtis)
38. 08:37 PM - Re: Fuse Stands (linn Walters)
39. 09:18 PM - Re: Re: Transporting Fuselage (Kelly McMullen)
40. 10:07 PM - Re: Re: Transporting Fuselage (Neal George)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Maximum Panel Hieght |
Originally the stick hit the panel, I estimate I needed to move the stick top aft
about 1" and reweld where I had cut a notch at the base to allow the bending.
Gary Specketer
-------------- Original message --------------
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
> speckter@comcast.net wrote:
> > I have the CH sticks and needed to also reweld the bases of the sticks
> > to make them clear the panel.
> How far past the panel did the stick originally go??
> How about now?
> Linn
> do not archive
> >
> > Gary Specketer
> >
>
>
>
>
>
<html><body>
<DIV>Originally the stick hit the panel, I estimate I needed to move the stick
top aft about 1" and reweld where I had cut a notch at the base to allow the bending.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Gary Specketer</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
hare,
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Maximum Panel Hieght |
At 13" you shouldn't have any problem at all. Most of the panels we do are
exactly that size (our modular panel is exactly 13"). That is only .75" more
than the standard Van's panel. More of it depends on your stick grip than
the panel, as those can add 6" to the stick. As Rene said, sometimes the
easiest is just having a new stick welded or modify your current one. Been
done lots of times!
Cheers,
Stein
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Nick Leonard
>Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:49 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Maximum Panel Hieght
>
>
>
>I'm hoping to extend my panel height to 13" but not sure that I
>will have a problem with my forward stick movement hitting the
>panel. I have a CH Products grip and I have cut the stick down
>as far a possible. I'm trying to avoid having to reinstall the
>horizontal and elevator to check the stick forward clearance. I
>know that others have done this with various custom panels and I'm
>trying to find out if the elevator stops will limit the forward
>movement or do I have to trim the panel back up the the original height?
>
>Jesse or Stein or others that have gone through this, can you give
>me any insight?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Nick
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224142#224142
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
Scott - could you please explain in detail what the defect is with the OEM Vans
parts and why the Matco axle resolves the issue
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224223#224223
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
Hey Mike,
Here's the repost, Later, - Lew
Hi Everyone,
I want to share with you the permanent fix that I have come up with for
the front axle spacer problems we have been having lately. We have seen
everything from gouging of outer yokes to the bearing spinning on the
axle due to the loss of bearing pre-load.
I decided to take a real close look at the system to see what the root
problem is and I found that the spacers provided with the kit, both the
steel ones delivered with the kit initially and the aluminum ones sent
out as a fix do not interface with the bearing properly. This is due to
two issues.
The first is that the mating surface on the bearing for the spacer is
curved. I contacted Timken Bearing and they sent me the dimensioned
cross section of that bearing which showed that the curved mating
surface was a compound curve that melded two radii. This is not an easy
surface to mate to.
The second issue was that of the wall thickness of the aluminum spacers
set out by Van's to replace the initial steel ones. The wall thickness
of these aluminum spacers is .250in. The mating surface of the bearing
is approx. .187in. This is the steel contact area inside of the rubber
bearing seal. This meant that the spacer was pre-loading on the rubber
bearing seal instead of the steel portion of the bearing. In many cases
this has resulted in the loss of the pre-load as the rubber
deteriorates. Consequently, there were bearings spinning, yokes being
gouged and loose wheels which add to bearing wear and shimmy.
I initially thought that I would take the same approach as Ross Farnham
and machine profiles on the end of new steel spacers so that the
interface between them and the bearing was close to identical. I called
Ross and talked it over with him and he said that if he had more time to
put into it he would have made one of the spacers adjustable. I asked
him if I could run with that and he agreed it would be the best fix.
So, what I have been able to design is a system where there is a perfect
interface between the spacers and the bearings by utilizing the Timken
specifications and the accuracy of CNC machining. I have also been able
to design a robust and accurate adjustment mechanism into one of the
spacers so that the pre-load can be adjusted without having to take the
wheel apart.
Integrated into the spacer design are notches that accept the heads of
10-24 socket-head cap screws installed on the inner face of the yoke.
These restrict the spacers from being able to spin on the axle. As well,
you will now be able to accurately torque the front wheel bolt because
it no longer has any relationship to the pre-load of the bearings.
The screw adjustment ring is locked in place by two 1/4-20 socket-head
cap screws that have drilled heads so they can be safety wired.
All of these new components including the hardware is made from
stainless steel for durability and corrosion resistance.
I just finished installing a set in my front wheel assembly and it goes
together and adjusts very easily. I will be offering these for sale
through Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Tools. The kits will include all
hardware instructions and the drill guide used to locate the
anti-rotation screws.
You can go to my Blog site and read about these and see pictures of the
RV-10 as well as the RV6/7/8/9 components. It is located at the
following address: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com
I feel as though I have now installed a permanent fix to this problem
and I hope that if you are interested in the kit I have put together you
will go and visit the Cleaveland Tools site. The first 10 production
kits of each variant will be available sometime in mid January but
please leave your name with them if you are interested so we can get a
handle on how many are going to be required.
Many thanks for reading this long post.
Dave Hertner
RV-10 Builder #10164
Effectus AeroProducts Inc.
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224230#224230
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
I didn't wait for Van's to correctly solve the problem. I have gone with the Grove
nose wheel.
Was very easy to install and I think it removes the original problem.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Engine, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224245#224245
Message 6
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| Subject: | Transporting Fuselage |
Does anyone have any suggestions for transporting the -10 fuselage to the airport?
I'm approximately 15 miles from the field, all on relatively congested roads.
Any suggestions or info on how others have done it are appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #40473
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
I am a little confused about the different products ou tthere which address
this issue. Matco=2C $60.00 or the axle Cleaveland is selling=2C $170.00 w
hich I thought was marketed by an independant...Aircraft Mods blog guy. The
n I recall there also was another person who made the YouTube videos or are
these the same person. Which one is distributed by CLeaveland????
JOhn G.> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle> From: Mikeabel@Pacbell.ne
t> Date: Mon=2C 12 Jan 2009 07:58:49 -0800> To: rv10-list@matronics.com> >
- could you please explain in detail what the defect is with the OEM Vans p
arts and why the Matco axle resolves the issue> > --------> OSH '08 or Bust
(busted) be there in "=3B09> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF> > > > > Read th
is topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2242
====================> > >
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Transporting Fuselage |
Hey Tom,
Others have used snowmobile trailers, construction trailers, etc. -- has to be
8' wide. We checked into renting a trailer and found that it was a lot cheaper
to hire a tow truck (skid truck, roll back -- the kind that tilts) so we're
planning on doing that. It costs about $75 here in SC and they pick it up (we'll
secure it) and deliver it.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224258#224258
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
I ordered a set from Matco this weekend. It looks like a
pretty workable and inexpensive solution...cheap enough that
it would be nice to see it become a standard Van's part.
Right now, it appears there is a sale price as well, and
I paid $54.32. It basically replaces the entire axle
assembly and allows it to be preload adjustable. After
hearing from Scott how well it worked out, I decided to
finally get rid of my setup. I plan to take some photos
like Scott did and document the process and give some
feedback, and add it to my site. This all has some
similarities to Dave Hertner's setup which also looks
real good. His I know is stainless steel, which would
help explain the cost difference.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey Mike,
>
> Here's the repost, Later, - Lew
>
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I want to share with you the permanent fix that I have come up with for
> the front axle spacer problems we have been having lately. We have seen
> everything from gouging of outer yokes to the bearing spinning on the
> axle due to the loss of bearing pre-load.
>
> I decided to take a real close look at the system to see what the root
> problem is and I found that the spacers provided with the kit, both the
> steel ones delivered with the kit initially and the aluminum ones sent
> out as a fix do not interface with the bearing properly. This is due to
> two issues.
>
> The first is that the mating surface on the bearing for the spacer is
> curved. I contacted Timken Bearing and they sent me the dimensioned
> cross section of that bearing which showed that the curved mating
> surface was a compound curve that melded two radii. This is not an easy
> surface to mate to.
>
> The second issue was that of the wall thickness of the aluminum spacers
> set out by Van's to replace the initial steel ones. The wall thickness
> of these aluminum spacers is .250in. The mating surface of the bearing
> is approx. .187in. This is the steel contact area inside of the rubber
> bearing seal. This meant that the spacer was pre-loading on the rubber
> bearing seal instead of the steel portion of the bearing. In many cases
> this has resulted in the loss of the pre-load as the rubber
> deteriorates. Consequently, there were bearings spinning, yokes being
> gouged and loose wheels which add to bearing wear and shimmy.
>
> I initially thought that I would take the same approach as Ross Farnham
> and machine profiles on the end of new steel spacers so that the
> interface between them and the bearing was close to identical. I called
> Ross and talked it over with him and he said that if he had more time to
> put into it he would have made one of the spacers adjustable. I asked
> him if I could run with that and he agreed it would be the best fix.
>
> So, what I have been able to design is a system where there is a perfect
> interface between the spacers and the bearings by utilizing the Timken
> specifications and the accuracy of CNC machining. I have also been able
> to design a robust and accurate adjustment mechanism into one of the
> spacers so that the pre-load can be adjusted without having to take the
> wheel apart.
>
> Integrated into the spacer design are notches that accept the heads of
> 10-24 socket-head cap screws installed on the inner face of the yoke.
> These restrict the spacers from being able to spin on the axle. As well,
> you will now be able to accurately torque the front wheel bolt because
> it no longer has any relationship to the pre-load of the bearings.
>
> The screw adjustment ring is locked in place by two 1/4-20 socket-head
> cap screws that have drilled heads so they can be safety wired.
>
> All of these new components including the hardware is made from
> stainless steel for durability and corrosion resistance.
>
> I just finished installing a set in my front wheel assembly and it goes
> together and adjusts very easily. I will be offering these for sale
> through Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland Tools. The kits will include all
> hardware instructions and the drill guide used to locate the
> anti-rotation screws.
>
> You can go to my Blog site and read about these and see pictures of the
> RV-10 as well as the RV6/7/8/9 components. It is located at the
> following address: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com
>
> I feel as though I have now installed a permanent fix to this problem
> and I hope that if you are interested in the kit I have put together you
> will go and visit the Cleaveland Tools site. The first 10 production
> kits of each variant will be available sometime in mid January but
> please leave your name with them if you are interested so we can get a
> handle on how many are going to be required.
>
> Many thanks for reading this long post.
>
> Dave Hertner
> RV-10 Builder #10164
>
> Effectus AeroProducts Inc.
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
> Piddling with wiring and avionics.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224230#224230
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Tailcone Question |
For those of you who have completed the tailcone (and attached it), I
have a question....
I am ready to begin riveting the tailcone, but I still have some
confusion regarding the attachment - and how that relates to dimpling
holes.
The plans say to "dimple all of the #40 skin holes with the exception of
holes that are part of the F-1006 frame". I did that.
However some of these holes are shared between the tailcone stiffeners
(1047's) and the F-1006 frame.
I think I need to go ahead and dimple the holes that are common with the
skin and 1047 stiffeners - even though they are also common with the
frame. Otherwise I'll never get a dimple back behind the skin again and
I will be forced to try and dimple two pieces of aluminum at one.
Anyone else run into this issue?
I bet I'm okay with dimpling those holes even though they're part of
1006 assembly.
Phil
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
The one that Scott posted about is a new solution developed directly by M
atco (manufacturer of our wheels) to address the short comings of how the w
heels mount to our fork type RV's. The one that Dave Hertner is developing
is very similar and will be sold by Cleaveland.
Nothing against Daves fine work but given the one that Scott posted is ac
tually developed by Matco and is 1/3rd the price I just ordered a Matco.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 10:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
I am a little confused about the different products ou tthere which address
this issue. Matco, $60.00 or the axle Cleaveland is selling, $170.00 which
I thought was marketed by an independant...Aircraft Mods blog guy. Then I
recall there also was another person who made the YouTube videos or are the
se the same person. Which one is distributed by CLeaveland????
JOhn G.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
> From: Mikeabel@Pacbell.net
> Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 07:58:49 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Scott - could you please explain in detail what the defect is with the OE
M Vans parts and why the Matco axle resolves the issue
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224223#224223
>
>==
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
Cleaveland has Dave Hertner's (Aircraft Mods Blog) parts. Yes,
they're about $170. Matco is selling these direct, to help
fix the inadequacies in Van's axles so that their own wheels
don't get a bad reputation. Matco's are about $60. (Currently
less)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
> I am a little confused about the different products ou tthere which
> address this issue. Matco, $60.00 or the axle Cleaveland is selling,
> $170.00 which I thought was marketed by an independant...Aircraft Mods
> blog guy. Then I recall there also was another person who made the
> YouTube videos or are these the same person. Which one is distributed by
> CLeaveland????
>
> JOhn G.
>
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
> > From: Mikeabel@Pacbell.net
> > Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 07:58:49 -0800
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> > Scott - could you please explain in detail what the defect is with
> the OEM Vans parts and why the Matco axle resolves the issue
> >
> > --------
> > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224223#224223
> >
> >==
> >
> >
> >
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
Phil,
I think the holes you are talking about are the three near where the longer
on meets the tailcone? If so they get machine countersunk to accept a shim
and dimpleted skin. IIRC.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:08:50 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
For those of you who have completed the tailcone (and attached it), I have
a question....
I am ready to begin riveting the tailcone, but I still have some confusion
regarding the attachment - and how that relates to dimpling holes.
The plans say to "dimple all of the #40 skin holes with the exception of ho
les=C2-that are part of the=C2-F-1006 frame".=C2- I did that.
However some of these holes are shared between the tailcone stiffeners (104
7's) and the F-1006 frame.
I think I need to go ahead and dimple the holes that are common with the sk
in and 1047 stiffeners - even though they are also common with the frame.
=C2- Otherwise I'll never get a dimple back behind the skin again and I w
ill be forced to try and dimple two pieces of aluminum at one.
Anyone else run into this issue?=C2-
I bet I'm okay with dimpling those holes even though they're part of 1006 a
ssembly.
============
==
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Transporting Fuselage |
I had to hire the "larger" flatbed because the little one did not carry enough
insurance to cover the aircraft. I had the avionics and engine installed which
exceeded the 100k coveage on the little tow truck. It cost me $165 to get it
to the airport for a 10 mile trip. I can't wait to haul it acrosed the county
to Boulder City for the first flight.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:05:29 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Transporting Fuselage
Hey Tom,
Others have used snowmobile trailers, construction trailers, etc. -- has to be
8' wide. We checked into renting a trailer and found that it was a lot cheaper
to hire a tow truck (skid truck, roll back -- the kind that tilts) so we're
planning on doing that. It costs about $75 here in SC and they pick it up (we'll
secure it) and deliver it.
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224258#224258
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
Hey Tim,
Is this the Matco page?
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
Later, - Lew
--------
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
Piddling with wiring and avionics.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224271#224271
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
yep
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38336
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lew Gallagher" <lewgall@charter.net>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
>
> Hey Tim,
>
> Is this the Matco page?
>
> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
> Piddling with wiring and avionics.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224271#224271
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
Ah yes, sorry I didn't include a link before.
Also, Scott was asking on my behalf and here is an email that
they sent via him, regarding what you need to order:
-------------------------
"The WHLAXLE24 nose wheel axle is now linked on the home page
of our website. the address is http://www.matcomfg.com
We are offering them at a very good price! He will need two of the
WHLA24SP spacers as well as the WHLAXLE24 (the spacers are the 0.325
thick discs that go on each side of the axle) for the RV-10 installation
<other misc. conversation snipped>
Thanks,
George R. Happ
MATCO mfg"
--------------------------
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Lew Gallagher wrote:
>
> Hey Tim,
>
> Is this the Matco page?
>
> http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
>
> Later, - Lew
>
> --------
> non-pilot
> crazy about building
> NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
> Painting when it's 60+ degrees!
> Piddling with wiring and avionics.
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
The issue with the RV-10 started with Van's supplying steel spacers that would
gall the aluminum fork. This was then replaced with aluminum spacers which made
the problem better.
It was still difficult to keep the preload constant using the Van's design. This
part fixes the issue and locks the axle to the fork with a bolt.
The two place guys felt that the stock Van's system was causing an oscillation
along the axis of the wheel axle caused by an increasing and decreasing pre-load
on the bearing and this was also a fix for them. The two place guys have a
nose gear that is not as strong as the -10 so they may have seen this. I actually
believe that that wheel balance is 80% of the problem and the bearing pre-load
is 20%. But that is just my opinion. I know they tested this same design
on a -9A and saw significant improvement in the vibration of the front wheel
but the wheel was also balanced.
It is basically just another part that replaces the Van's design to make something
better just like the axle extensions on the mains and the angled bolt on the
elevator trim.
Mike, I hope that helps explain the issue a little better.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt@yahoo.com
________________________________
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 10:11:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
Cleaveland has Dave Hertner's (Aircraft Mods Blog) parts. Yes,
they're about $170. Matco is selling these direct, to help
fix the inadequacies in Van's axles so that their own wheels
don't get a bad reputation. Matco's are about $60. (Currently
less)
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Gonzalez wrote:
> I am a little confused about the different products ou tthere which address this
issue. Matco, $60.00 or the axle Cleaveland is selling, $170.00 which I thought
was marketed by an independant...Aircraft Mods blog guy. Then I recall there
also was another person who made the YouTube videos or are these the same
person. Which one is distributed by CLeaveland????
> JOhn G.
>
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
> > From: Mikeabel@Pacbell.net
> > Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 07:58:49 -0800
> > To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> >
> >
> > Scott - could you please explain in detail what the defect is with the OEM
Vans parts and why the Matco axle resolves the issue
> >
> > --------
> > OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> > Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224223#224223
> >
> >==
> >
> >
> >
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pants install - timing and helpful hints |
You can save a lot of time by using a laser level that is capable of shooting a
floor and ceiling line at the same time. Makes it much easier to determine the
fuselage centerline, then transfer it to the floor. Then establish parallel
offsets from that line for each wheel pant. The laser level also makes it easy
to establish level lines on each wheel pant.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224291#224291
Message 20
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| Subject: | Tailcone Question |
Thanks Rick..
I know the 3 holes you're thinking of, and unfortunately this isn't
them. I'm talking specifically about the forward-most holes in the
stiffeners.
Those holes are shared with between:
1) The tailcone skin.
2) The stiffeners.
3) The F-1006 bulkhead (frame)
4) The aft end of the mid-fuse skin.
Phil
________________________________
From: Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
Phil,
I think the holes you are talking about are the three near where the
longeron meets the tailcone? If so they get machine countersunk to
accept a shim and dimpleted skin. IIRC.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:08:50 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
For those of you who have completed the tailcone (and attached it), I
have a question....
I am ready to begin riveting the tailcone, but I still have some
confusion regarding the attachment - and how that relates to dimpling
holes.
The plans say to "dimple all of the #40 skin holes with the exception of
holes that are part of the F-1006 frame". I did that.
However some of these holes are shared between the tailcone stiffeners
(1047's) and the F-1006 frame.
I think I need to go ahead and dimple the holes that are common with the
skin and 1047 stiffeners - even though they are also common with the
frame. Otherwise I'll never get a dimple back behind the skin again and
I will be forced to try and dimple two pieces of aluminum at one.
Anyone else run into this issue?
I bet I'm okay with dimpling those holes even though they're part of
1006 assembly.
Phil
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Nitrogen in Tires |
Exactly. There are a host of reasons to use nitrogen per the previous note, none
of them have to do with leak rate, and non are particularly pertinent to RV-10s.
It's one of those things that you can do if you want (ie, does no harm)
but is of dubious value and not worth the effort and expense.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224312#224312
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Axle |
John,
I make the IFLYRV10.COM parts and am also the one who tried to
describe the problem in the youtube video . Cleaveland aircraft tool has
most of my stuff available in their catalog, but I don't think mike
listed my version of the axle yet (its on my website @99$). there are
some great options for this fix, mine is based on a cessna axle style
with end cups instead of sleeves. As tim mentioned, matco has really
stepped up offering a nice setup at what seems to be nearly at cost to
manufacture.
steve dinieri
From: John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
I am a little confused about the different products ou tthere which
address this issue. Matco, $60.00 or the axle Cleaveland is selling,
$170.00 which I thought was marketed by an independant...Aircraft Mods
blog guy. Then I recall there also was another person who made the
YouTube videos or are these the same person. Which one is distributed by
CLeaveland????
JOhn G.
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Axle
> From: Mikeabel@Pacbell.net
> Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 07:58:49 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Scott - could you please explain in detail what the defect is with the
OEM Vans parts and why the Matco axle resolves the issue
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224223#224223
>
>==
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
Hi Everyone,
It seems as though I have been scooped in the marketplace!!
With the introduction of the Matco adjustable axle my product offering
has effectively been run outta town! There is little chance of me being
able to compete with a product being offered by the company with whom
the problem originated. This is just how things go sometimes.
I would like to inform those who had contacted Cleaveland Tools to place
a pre-order that I have canceled the product offering in fairness to
Mike at Cleaveland Tools even though they had ordered product already. I
would hate to have that product sit on their shelves with no interest in
them.
To those who had the confidence to pre-order my adjustable pre-load axle
spacers, Thank You. It is always gratifying to have the confidence of
your peers.
I look forward to offering other accessories and parts to the kit
builder and kit manufacturer alike.
Regards,
Dave
--
Dave Hertner
President
Effectus AeroProducts Inc.
Kit Aircraft Component Manufacturing
Machining - Fabrication - Laser/Water-Jet Cutting
Blog: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com
Email: davehertner@effectus-aeroproducts.com
Phone: (519) 933-2055
Message 24
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> BTW, I didn't buy the Van's kit but did use the manual to order the key
> parts. The Wiring Harness manual is very useful even if one is doing a
> very custom wiring job.
Where can I get a copy of the "Van's Wiring Manual" ?
Thanks
[/quote][/quote]
--------
Wayne
RV 7 "eh?" 120 hrs
RV 10 fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224350#224350
Message 25
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| Subject: | Adjustable Axle Spacers - Effectus AeroProducts |
I think I have it in a box at home and look forward to testing your diagnos
tic and problem solving ability. Thank you for spending the time in solving
a problem that seems as though it should have been previously thought out.
Not much money in it for you=2C but I have something that most other don't
have on their 10 so that is cool as long as it works.
Thanks=2C
John G. Do Not Archive> Date: Mon=2C 12 Jan 2009 18:04:23 -0500> From: effe
ctus@rogers.com> To: RV10-List@matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Adjustabl
David Hertner <effectus@rogers.com>> > Hi Everyone=2C> > It seems as though
I have been scooped in the marketplace!!> > With the introduction of the M
atco adjustable axle my product offering > has effectively been run outta t
own! There is little chance of me being > able to compete with a product be
ing offered by the company with whom > the problem originated. This is just
how things go sometimes.> > I would like to inform those who had contacted
Cleaveland Tools to place > a pre-order that I have canceled the product o
ffering in fairness to > Mike at Cleaveland Tools even though they had orde
red product already. I > would hate to have that product sit on their shelv
es with no interest in > them.> > To those who had the confidence to pre-or
der my adjustable pre-load axle > spacers=2C Thank You. It is always gratif
ying to have the confidence of > your peers.> > I look forward to offering
other accessories and parts to the kit > builder and kit manufacturer alike
.> > Regards=2C> > Dave> > > -- > Dave Hertner> President> > Effectus AeroP
roducts Inc.> Kit Aircraft Component Manufacturing> Machining - Fabrication
- Laser/Water-Jet Cutting> > Blog: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com> Email:
========> > >
Message 26
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| Subject: | gas strut installation gotcha |
I created another oops today when installing the wd-1023 gas strut attach
brackets to the cabin top. The plans say the overall position is determined
by the "best-fit". That is true but pay special attention to Figure 1 on
Sec 45, Page 16. I've attached a picture of the plans for reference.
Notice that the attach hole for the gas strut on the weldment piece is
roughly in line with the edge of the cabin top. This ends up being an
important height although not called out in the plans. If your attach hole
is higher than the cabin top edge be sure to "locally relieve" like the
plans say. If the wd-1023 is too high above the cabin top lip the gas strut
will contact the door before it can close all the way.
I installed mine too high thus I couldn't fit the C-1013 brackets to the
door. I didn't want to go to the work of filling the holes in the top with
epoxy and re-drill so I made a new attach hole lower on the wd-1023 bracket.
I'll cut the old hole off and round the bracket so it looks like the stock
ones.
Just thought I'd send this out in hopes I keep somebody else from inventing
new cuss words like I did today. Pictures attached.
-Ben Westfall
#40579
Message 27
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Hi,
I'm expecting my QB fuse in the coming weeks and I'd like to have a fuse
stand waiting on it.
After researching on Tim's site and he a photo of Rick Sked's fuse
holder.
Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
Thanks,
Phil
Message 28
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| Subject: | Battery Chassis Grounding... |
I'm mounting the battery in my RV-8 in the rear similar to the way the RV-10 is
mounted. But what's the recommend procedure for attaching the Ground cable?
I assume a AN5 bolt and aeronut, but what other hardware? Where's a good place
to physically attach it? Anyone have some pictures of their installation?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Chassis Grounding... |
For what it's worth, I ran a #2 cable from the rear where the
batteries are (2), grounded there to the frame, up through the
firewall to the engine mount and then to the engine.
Made doubly sure that ground was battery to airframe to engine.......
grumpy
do not archive
On Jan 12, 2009, at 8:21 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> I'm mounting the battery in my RV-8 in the rear similar to the way
> the RV-10 is mounted. But what's the recommend procedure for
> attaching the Ground cable? I assume a AN5 bolt and aeronut, but
> what other hardware? Where's a good place to physically attach it?
> Anyone have some pictures of their installation?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Question |
As I recall, the plans have you leave those holes alone until you mate
up with the forward fuselage. I think the idea is that you want to
match drill them, and then dimple them after you've mated things together.
It still freaks me out that we can just butt join the fuse and
tailcone. I get the engineering but it still seems weird.
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Thanks Rick..
>
> I know the 3 holes you're thinking of, and unfortunately this isn't
> them. I'm talking specifically about the forward-most holes in the
> stiffeners.
>
> Those holes are shared with between:
> 1) The tailcone skin.
> 2) The stiffeners.
> 3) The F-1006 bulkhead (frame)
> 4) The aft end of the mid-fuse skin.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Rick Sked [mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, January 12, 2009 11:19 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
>
> Phil,
>
> I think the holes you are talking about are the three near where the
> longeron meets the tailcone? If so they get machine countersunk to
> accept a shim and dimpleted skin. IIRC.
>
> Rick Sked
>
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:08:50 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
>
> For those of you who have completed the tailcone (and attached it), I
> have a question....
>
> I am ready to begin riveting the tailcone, but I still have some
> confusion regarding the attachment - and how that relates to dimpling
> holes.
>
> The plans say to "dimple all of the #40 skin holes with the exception
> of holes that are part of the F-1006 frame". I did that.
>
> However some of these holes are shared between the tailcone stiffeners
> (1047's) and the F-1006 frame.
>
> I think I need to go ahead and dimple the holes that are common with
> the skin and 1047 stiffeners - even though they are also common with
> the frame. Otherwise I'll never get a dimple back behind the skin
> again and I will be forced to try and dimple two pieces of aluminum at
> one.
>
> Anyone else run into this issue?
>
> I bet I'm okay with dimpling those holes even though they're part of
> 1006 assembly.
>
> Phil
> *
>
>
> *
> *
>
> 3D============================================
> href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"'>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> 3D============================================
> href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com
> 3D============================================
> href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> 3D============================================
>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Chassis Grounding... |
Matt, Bob has an excellent article on his site with a pic:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Battery_Grounds/Battery_Grounds.html
I'm attaching 2 pics of my interpretation. You'll notice I added the
ground wire for the forest of tabs in one pic.
Thank You.
Bill
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> I'm mounting the battery in my RV-8 in the rear similar to the way the RV-10
is mounted. But what's the recommend procedure for attaching the Ground cable?
I assume a AN5 bolt and aeronut, but what other hardware? Where's a good place
to physically attach it? Anyone have some pictures of their installation?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
I used two motorcycle stands from Harbor F (they were on sale). I used
a couple of 2x4s to connect them, then I threw a 4x4 board on top.
Crude but it is VERY easy to roll around.
Perry, Phil wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm expecting my QB fuse in the coming weeks and I'd like to have a
> fuse stand waiting on it.
>
> After researching on Tim's site and he a photo of Rick Sked's fuse holder.
>
> Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 33
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|
Phil -
I used two engine stands from Harbor-Freight on my RV-7. Minor changes to
the aft attachment would adapt it to the -10.
Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
Thanks,
Phil
Message 34
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| Subject: | gas strut installation gotcha |
You'll get real anal later and look at how everyone of the 10s has a differ
ent appearence when the doors are completely opened...some the left door is
more open than the right and some the other way around. Kind bugs me.JOhnF
rom: rv10@sinkrate.comTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: gas st
rut installation gotchaDate: Mon=2C 12 Jan 2009 16:36:09 -0800
I created another oops today when installing the wd-1023 gas
strut attach brackets to the cabin top. The plans say the overall position
is
determined by the =93best-fit=94. That is true but pay special
attention to Figure 1 on Sec 45=2C Page 16. I=92ve attached a picture of t
he
plans for reference.
Notice that the attach hole for the gas strut on the
weldment piece is roughly in line with the edge of the cabin top. This end
s up
being an important height although not called out in the plans. If your at
tach
hole is higher than the cabin top edge be sure to =93locally relieve=94
like the plans say. If the wd-1023 is too high above the cabin top lip the
gas
strut will contact the door before it can close all the way.
I installed mine too high thus I couldn=92t fit the
C-1013 brackets to the door. I didn=92t want to go to the work of filling
the holes in the top with epoxy and re-drill so I made a new attach hole lo
wer
on the wd-1023 bracket. I=92ll cut the old hole off and round the bracket
so it looks like the stock ones.
Just thought I=92d send this out in hopes I keep
somebody else from inventing new cuss words like I did today. Pictures
attached.
-Ben Westfall
#40579
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Message 35
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| Subject: | Tailcone Question |
I completely agree...weird indeed=2C but remember the seat belts hold the t
wo pieces together also. HEHE!DO NOt archiveDate: Mon=2C 12 Jan 2009 21:42:
33 -0500From: MauleDriver@nc.rr.comTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSubject: Re:
RV10-List: Tailcone Question
As I recall=2C the plans have you leave those holes alone until you mate
up with the forward fuselage. I think the idea is that you want to
match drill them=2C and then dimple them after you've mated things
together.
It still freaks me out that we can just butt join the fuse and
tailcone. I get the engineering but it still seems weird.
Perry=2C Phil wrote:
Thanks Rick..
I know the 3 holes you're
thinking of=2C and unfortunately this isn't them. I'm talking
specifically about the forward-most holes in the stiffeners.
Those holes are shared with
between:
1) The tailcone skin.
2) The stiffeners.
3) The F-1006 bulkhead (frame)
4) The aft end of the mid-fuse
skin.
Phil
From: Rick Sked
[mailto:ricksked@embarqmail.com]
Sent: Monday=2C January 12=2C 2009 11:19 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
Phil=2C
I think the holes you are talking about are the three near where
the longeron meets the tailcone? If so they get machine countersunk to
accept a shim and dimpleted skin. IIRC.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Perry" <Phil.Perry@netapp.com>
Sent: Monday=2C January 12=2C 2009 9:08:50 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angele
s
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Question
For those
of you who have completed the tailcone (and attached it)=2C I have a
question....
I am
ready to begin riveting the tailcone=2C but I still have some confusion
regarding the attachment - and how that relates to dimpling holes.
The plans
say to "dimple all of the #40 skin holes with the exception of
holes that are part of the F-1006 frame". I did that.
However
some of these holes are shared between the tailcone stiffeners (1047's)
and the F-1006 frame.
I think I
need to go ahead and dimple the holes that are common with the skin and
1047 stiffeners - even though they are also common with the frame.
Otherwise I'll never get a dimple back behind the skin again and I will
be forced to try and dimple two pieces of aluminum at one.
Anyone
else run into this issue?
I bet I'm
okay with dimpling those holes even though they're part of 1006
assembly.
Phil
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| Subject: | flexible fuel lines |
Hey all,
After trying to make the bends=C2-in the solid aluminum fuel lines, I hav
e decided to go with the stainless/braided=C2-flexible lines.=C2- Can a
nyone recommend how much length to allow=C2-for the section of line exiti
ng the fuse for attachment to the tank?=C2- I assume=C2-most lines =C2
-are different on the overall dimension depending on the placement of the
fuel valve.
Thanks!
Sean Blair=C2-
#40225
Message 37
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Here are some thoughts.
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/fusestand/index.html
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=37550
William
http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
-------- Original Message --------
> Hi,
>
> I'm expecting my QB fuse in the coming weeks and I'd like to have a fuse
> stand waiting on it.
>
> After researching on Tim's site and he a photo of Rick Sked's fuse
> holder.
>
> Does anyone else have photos of similar fuse holders?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
Message 38
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Here's the best pic I have of my fuse stand. all 2X4s .... the uprights
have a screw (protect the spar with plastic hose around the screw)
through the wing attach holes, and the blocks on the step keep it from
sliding off. One crosspiece across by the uprights. Then I added an 8'
2X4 under that because the CG went too far aft with the tail feathers
on. Note the block on the floor next to the step ..... the 8' 2X4 sags
too much and needs another caster. This keeps the fuse low so you can
lean over to work on the innards and it rolls around when I need it to.
Linn
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Transporting Fuselage |
Is your favorite airport manager already banning experimental aircraft?
On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 10:22 AM, Rick Sked <ricksked@embarqmail.com> wrote:
>
> I had to hire the "larger" flatbed because the little one did not carry enough
insurance to cover the aircraft. I had the avionics and engine installed which
exceeded the 100k coveage on the little tow truck. It cost me $165 to get it
to the airport for a 10 mile trip. I can't wait to haul it acrosed the county
to Boulder City for the first flight.
>
> Rick Sked
> 40185
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Transporting Fuselage |
Well, Rick, Kelly has a point.
If all the experimental-types on the field got together and refused to pay
their rent on a given month, buy no fuel, hire not a single instructor-hour,
not even a canned beverage out of the machine... say... Feb 09... you might
get city council's attention... I see an excuse for a community gathering;
homebuilders, local media, AOPA, EAA, AvWeb, AeroNews coverage... eggs and
livermush, biscuits and gravy (you guys know what that is?)... families,
well-wishers, bookies... Waffle House, (no)... on the ramp!... Around a pile
of shredded cardboard and discarded McNellis trash to heat the grill...
neal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Transporting Fuselage
Is your favorite airport manager already banning experimental aircraft?
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