Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:51 AM - jammed main gear leg (eagerlee)
2. 10:09 AM - TSA (David McNeill)
3. 10:28 AM - Width between the wheel pants (John Gonzalez)
4. 10:28 AM - Re: jammed main gear leg (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
5. 10:32 AM - Re: jammed main gear leg (John Gonzalez)
6. 11:04 AM - Re: Width between the wheel pants (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
7. 02:49 PM - Garmin GPSMAP 496 For Sale (Patrick ONeill)
8. 03:10 PM - Re: jammed main gear leg (John Cox)
9. 06:54 PM - Door ajar indictors (John Gonzalez)
10. 07:08 PM - Re: Door ajar indictors (linn Walters)
11. 07:32 PM - Re: TSA (Dj Merrill)
12. 07:55 PM - Re: Door ajar indictors (Darton Steve)
13. 08:12 PM - Re: Door ajar indictors (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
14. 09:02 PM - Re: Door ajar indictors (Rene)
15. 09:30 PM - AOA CPU (Dave Leikam)
16. 09:34 PM - Re: Door ajar indictors (linn Walters)
Message 1
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| Subject: | jammed main gear leg |
Has anyone had their gear leg get stuck in the attach bracket? We got
the right leg in with a moderate amount of wiggle jiggle twist and turn
effort, but now its wedged in tight. I think that some of the powder
coat material chipped off and got between the leg and the bracket. We
heated the bracket with a heat gun and we can turn (with a lot of
effort) the leg about 10 degrees while pulling down on it. We've
sprayed some silicone in the tube. This baby is really stuck. My next
tactic might be a very large brass drift and a very heavy hammer to
drive it out but the opportunity for doing serious damage scares the
hell out of me. Any ideas??
Paul Hahn
#40203
Message 2
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Just saw an illustration of why we are , as country, screwed, Flew the 10 to
KPRC (Prescott AZ) for breakfast. Upon leaving the restaurant, we saw 6
TSA/law enforcement types standing around. I believe they have a couple of
commuter flights a day.You and I paid 6 government employees (probably
overtime/premium pay). This is the Bin Laden secret plan; kill us with
bureaucracy..
Message 3
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| Subject: | Width between the wheel pants |
Can anyone tell me what the distance is between the wheels while the plane'
s weight is on the gear. A rough measure of the width from outside each whe
el aswell as to the outside of the wheel pants would be helpful.Thank=2CJoh
n G.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: jammed main gear leg |
I don't know if its any help but those legs fit with
a pretty close tolerance. If just a little residual po
wder coat worked its way into the areas between the leg
and bracket it made it even closer a fit.
I don't think you would have any issues with the hammer
and punch. If the leg rotates. I would do it but t
hat's just me..I'm blessed with the midas touch!! A li
ght tap will tell you how bad its stuck, if it moves
down a little your probably OK...
Rick S.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee@comcast.net>
Subject: RV10-List: jammed main gear leg
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Message 5
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| Subject: | jammed main gear leg |
Paul=2CDId you put any lubricant on the two parts before you slid it in. Va
soline would be a good idea. This issue is very important to me because I n
eed to get my grear legs off in order to get the plane out of the basement
=2C so I am very worried about putting them on in the first place. This is
my next step.You might need to try cold=2C nitrogen or dry ice=2C before ba
nging on it.JOhn G.From: eagerlee@comcast.netTo: rv10-list@matronics.comSub
ject: RV10-List: jammed main gear legDate: Sun=2C 18 Jan 2009 10:51:17 -070
0
Has anyone had their gear leg get stuck in the
attach bracket? We got the right leg in with a moderate amount of wiggle
jiggle twist and turn effort=2C but now its wedged in tight. I think that
some of the powder coat material chipped off and got between the leg and
the bracket. We heated the bracket with a heat gun and we can turn (with a
lot of effort) the leg about 10 degrees while pulling down on
it. We've sprayed some silicone in the tube. This baby is really
stuck. My next tactic might be a very large brass drift and a very heavy
hammer to drive it out but the opportunity for doing serious damage scares
the
hell out of me. Any ideas??
Paul Hahn
#40203
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Width between the wheel pants |
John,
I just measured it at 8' 6" from the pant spacer to
pant spacer
Rick S.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo@msn.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Width between the wheel pants
Can anyone tell me what the distance is between the whe
els while the plane's weight is on the gear. A rough
measure of the width from outside each wheel aswell as
to the outside of the wheel pants would be helpful.Thank,
John G.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Garmin GPSMAP 496 For Sale |
Hi All,
I've decided to upgrade to the 696 and so I'm putting my 496 up for sale.
If anyone is looking for one, I figured I'd check with the list before
putting it up on ebay.
Unit is in excellent condition with all original accessories and box plus
one extra battery. I'm located in SoCal and anyone local is welcome to come
take a look first.
If anyone is interested feel free to make me an offer off list:
poneill@irealms.com.
Patrick #40715
Message 8
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| Subject: | jammed main gear leg |
Liquid nitrogen on the leg shaft. Shrink tube heat gun on the mount,
set to 975 degrees until a handheld IR thermometer confirms even
heating. Don't use force, use physics.
You can use a common thermos to capture the liquid nitrogen from wide
range of easily available sources.
John Cox
do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of eagerlee
Sent: Sun 1/18/2009 9:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: jammed main gear leg
Has anyone had their gear leg get stuck in the attach bracket? We got
the right leg in with a moderate amount of wiggle jiggle twist and turn
effort, but now its wedged in tight. I think that some of the powder
coat material chipped off and got between the leg and the bracket. We
heated the bracket with a heat gun and we can turn (with a lot of
effort) the leg about 10 degrees while pulling down on it. We've
sprayed some silicone in the tube. This baby is really stuck. My next
tactic might be a very large brass drift and a very heavy hammer to
drive it out but the opportunity for doing serious damage scares the
hell out of me. Any ideas??
Paul Hahn
#40203
Message 9
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| Subject: | Door ajar indictors |
I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began reading the directions.W
hat am I missing in the understanding of this system? Are we removing the 5
/16 threaded bolts which we spend time shaping the ends to a point and then
tapping the inside of the aluminum rod to receive the theads of these bolt
s=2C only to replace them with a one inch long rare earth magnet and five m
inute epoxy?????There seems to be two issue that are confusing me. 1) I mad
e sure that the bolt length that I made penetrated atleast 1/4 past the alu
minum/fuse jamm when the door was closed and was also long enough the it wa
s still inside the portion of the aluminum pin that was housed by the nylon
block which is screwed to the door. I didn't want the pin bending in the g
ap between the fuse jam and the nylon door block.Now=2C am I asked to disca
rd this bolt pin and replace it with a one inch long cylindrical magnet?? A
ren't we weakening the mechanism just for the safety of seeing a light go o
ut??2) Why are we using this complicated method with magnets=2C fore and af
t when we one switch could be thrown by the pin physically pushing the swit
ch closed/open and thus turning the light out or on?I made the inner portio
n of my cabin top flange fit so well that a business card cannot fit betwee
n the door and itself=2C so if the foreward pin is closed the rear one is o
bviously closed by just looking at he inner door fit.So with the relay or c
ircuit that Stein has placed in my system=2C can I just place a simple swit
ch with is pushed closed by the pin or should I just not hook power to the
door system and since the light will always be out=2C assume it is fine to
fly?What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not=2C PISSED.Two steps forward
=2C 1 and 3/4 steps backJOhn G.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
John, I just couldn't go with the rack and pinion door latch and it's
resulting possible problems. The next time you get next to a Cirrus,
look at it's door hardware. It looks like a trunk latch from a small
car. My problem is I don't know which small car! I have a good friend
with a Cirrus that's trying to find me some info. If anyone out there
can shed some light on the Cirrus latch I'd be really grateful!!
Linn .... Waiting for that small car to show up!
John Gonzalez wrote:
> I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began reading the
> directions.
>
> What am I missing in the understanding of this system? Are we removing
> the 5/16 threaded bolts which we spend time shaping the ends to a
> point and then tapping the inside of the aluminum rod to receive the
> theads of these bolts, only to replace them with a one inch long rare
> earth magnet and five minute epoxy?????
>
> There seems to be two issue that are confusing me.
>
> 1) I made sure that the bolt length that I made penetrated atleast 1/4
> past the aluminum/fuse jamm when the door was closed and was also long
> enough the it was still inside the portion of the aluminum pin that
> was housed by the nylon block which is screwed to the door. I didn't
> want the pin bending in the gap between the fuse jam and the nylon
> door block.
>
> Now, am I asked to discard this bolt pin and replace it with a one
> inch long cylindrical magnet?? Aren't we weakening the mechanism just
> for the safety of seeing a light go out??
>
> 2) Why are we using this complicated method with magnets, fore and aft
> when we one switch could be thrown by the pin physically pushing the
> switch closed/open and thus turning the light out or on?
>
> I made the inner portion of my cabin top flange fit so well that a
> business card cannot fit between the door and itself, so if the
> foreward pin is closed the rear one is obviously closed by just
> looking at he inner door fit.
>
> So with the relay or circuit that Stein has placed in my system, can I
> just place a simple switch with is pushed closed by the pin or should
> I just not hook power to the door system and since the light will
> always be out, assume it is fine to fly?
>
> What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not, PISSED.
>
> Two steps forward, 1 and 3/4 steps back
>
> JOhn G.
> *
>
>
> *
Message 11
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David McNeill wrote:
> Just saw an illustration of why we are , as country, screwed, Flew the
> 10 to KPRC (Prescott AZ) for breakfast. Upon leaving the restaurant, we
> saw 6 TSA/law enforcement types standing around.
Just remember, TSA stands for Totally Screwing Aviation. I suppose it
could be Totally Screwing Americans if they continue down the path they
are on.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
Our flight department has a one year old Cirrus Turbo
G3. It is a nice enough aircraft but in my opinion the
door latch mechanism is the weakest design point of
the aircraft.
Steve 50212
--- linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
> John, I just couldn't go with the rack and pinion
> door latch and it's
> resulting possible problems. The next time you get
> next to a Cirrus,
> look at it's door hardware. It looks like a trunk
> latch from a small
> car. My problem is I don't know which small car! I
> have a good friend
> with a Cirrus that's trying to find me some info.
> If anyone out there
> can shed some light on the Cirrus latch I'd be
> really grateful!!
> Linn .... Waiting for that small car to show up!
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
> > I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began
> reading the
> > directions.
> >
> > What am I missing in the understanding of this
> system? Are we removing
> > the 5/16 threaded bolts which we spend time
> shaping the ends to a
> > point and then tapping the inside of the aluminum
> rod to receive the
> > theads of these bolts, only to replace them with a
> one inch long rare
> > earth magnet and five minute epoxy?????
> >
> > There seems to be two issue that are confusing me.
>
> >
> > 1) I made sure that the bolt length that I made
> penetrated atleast 1/4
> > past the aluminum/fuse jamm when the door was
> closed and was also long
> > enough the it was still inside the portion of the
> aluminum pin that
> > was housed by the nylon block which is screwed to
> the door. I didn't
> > want the pin bending in the gap between the fuse
> jam and the nylon
> > door block.
> >
> > Now, am I asked to discard this bolt pin and
> replace it with a one
> > inch long cylindrical magnet?? Aren't we weakening
> the mechanism just
> > for the safety of seeing a light go out??
> >
> > 2) Why are we using this complicated method with
> magnets, fore and aft
> > when we one switch could be thrown by the pin
> physically pushing the
> > switch closed/open and thus turning the light out
> or on?
> >
> > I made the inner portion of my cabin top flange
> fit so well that a
> > business card cannot fit between the door and
> itself, so if the
> > foreward pin is closed the rear one is obviously
> closed by just
> > looking at he inner door fit.
> >
> > So with the relay or circuit that Stein has placed
> in my system, can I
> > just place a simple switch with is pushed closed
> by the pin or should
> > I just not hook power to the door system and since
> the light will
> > always be out, assume it is fine to fly?
> >
> > What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not,
> PISSED.
> >
> > Two steps forward, 1 and 3/4 steps back
> >
> > JOhn G.
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
No surprise...the forward hinged door presents its own issues...I just finished
to final fit of my doors today and have total faith in the mechanism...I imagine
Deems does too, it's all in how well you make everything fit..but I will say
I have an easy 100+ hours in fitting and the. linkage/ locks
Rick Sked
40185
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door ajar indictors
Our flight department has a one year old Cirrus Turbo
G3. It is a nice enough aircraft but in my opinion the
door latch mechanism is the weakest design point of
the aircraft.
Steve 50212
--- linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
> John, I just couldn't go with the rack and pinion
> door latch and it's
> resulting possible problems. The next time you get
> next to a Cirrus,
> look at it's door hardware. It looks like a trunk
> latch from a small
> car. My problem is I don't know which small car! I
> have a good friend
> with a Cirrus that's trying to find me some info.
> If anyone out there
> can shed some light on the Cirrus latch I'd be
> really grateful!!
> Linn .... Waiting for that small car to show up!
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
> > I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began
> reading the
> > directions.
> >
> > What am I missing in the understanding of this
> system? Are we removing
> > the 5/16 threaded bolts which we spend time
> shaping the ends to a
> > point and then tapping the inside of the aluminum
> rod to receive the
> > theads of these bolts, only to replace them with a
> one inch long rare
> > earth magnet and five minute epoxy?????
> >
> > There seems to be two issue that are confusing me.
>
> >
> > 1) I made sure that the bolt length that I made
> penetrated atleast 1/4
> > past the aluminum/fuse jamm when the door was
> closed and was also long
> > enough the it was still inside the portion of the
> aluminum pin that
> > was housed by the nylon block which is screwed to
> the door. I didn't
> > want the pin bending in the gap between the fuse
> jam and the nylon
> > door block.
> >
> > Now, am I asked to discard this bolt pin and
> replace it with a one
> > inch long cylindrical magnet?? Aren't we weakening
> the mechanism just
> > for the safety of seeing a light go out??
> >
> > 2) Why are we using this complicated method with
> magnets, fore and aft
> > when we one switch could be thrown by the pin
> physically pushing the
> > switch closed/open and thus turning the light out
> or on?
> >
> > I made the inner portion of my cabin top flange
> fit so well that a
> > business card cannot fit between the door and
> itself, so if the
> > foreward pin is closed the rear one is obviously
> closed by just
> > looking at he inner door fit.
> >
> > So with the relay or circuit that Stein has placed
> in my system, can I
> > just place a simple switch with is pushed closed
> by the pin or should
> > I just not hook power to the door system and since
> the light will
> > always be out, assume it is fine to fly?
> >
> > What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not,
> PISSED.
> >
> > Two steps forward, 1 and 3/4 steps back
> >
> > JOhn G.
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
>
> browse
> Un/Subscription,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Forums!
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Door ajar indictors |
I used the rivethead blocks and pins..but had built mine IAW the plans
first.
1. IAW the plans, the bolt/pin is used to mark the frame, but is then
discarded. The end result is the angled piece of rod that is used to
"pull"
the door closed as the pin goes through the frame.
2. The magnet is placed, along with the switch, in a position such that
when the pin goes through the frame the switch is activated, but when
the
pin goes on the outside of the airplane it is not activated. The
problem
they are trying to address is when the door is closed the front pin
engages
but the back pin would pass outside the aircraft skin. If not carefully
inspected the pilot would think the door is completely closed but upon
takeoff, the air loads will open the door...and off it goes.
3. Why so complicated......fail safe? If you want the red like to
always be on unless the door is open. There are other ways of wiring
the
switches. Some people are just using green lights showing the door is
closed....
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 7:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door ajar indictors
I opened my Van's door warning kit today and began reading the
directions.
What am I missing in the understanding of this system? Are we removing
the
5/16 threaded bolts which we spend time shaping the ends to a point and
then
tapping the inside of the aluminum rod to receive the theads of these
bolts,
only to replace them with a one inch long rare earth magnet and five
minute
epoxy?????
There seems to be two issue that are confusing me.
1) I made sure that the bolt length that I made penetrated atleast 1/4
past
the aluminum/fuse jamm when the door was closed and was also long enough
the
it was still inside the portion of the aluminum pin that was housed by
the
nylon block which is screwed to the door. I didn't want the pin bending
in
the gap between the fuse jam and the nylon door block.
Now, am I asked to discard this bolt pin and replace it with a one inch
long
cylindrical magnet?? Aren't we weakening the mechanism just for the
safety
of seeing a light go out??
2) Why are we using this complicated method with magnets, fore and aft
when
we one switch could be thrown by the pin physically pushing the switch
closed/open and thus turning the light out or on?
I made the inner portion of my cabin top flange fit so well that a
business
card cannot fit between the door and itself, so if the foreward pin is
closed the rear one is obviously closed by just looking at he inner door
fit.
So with the relay or circuit that Stein has placed in my system, can I
just
place a simple switch with is pushed closed by the pin or should I just
not
hook power to the door system and since the light will always be out,
assume
it is fine to fly?
What happened to the priciple of KISS? Not, PISSED.
Two steps forward, 1 and 3/4 steps back
JOhn G.
Message 15
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For those who have installed an AFS AOA, where did you mount the CPU?
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Door ajar indictors |
Darton Steve wrote:
>
> Our flight department has a one year old Cirrus Turbo
> G3. It is a nice enough aircraft but in my opinion the
> door latch mechanism is the weakest design point of
> the aircraft.
>
> Steve 50212
Steve, would you elaborate? I had my first flight in my friends Cirrus
today ..... well, yesterday ;-) ..... and found it to be rather solid
... and this newbie didn't have any problem closing and latching it on
the first try. I did find it much easier to close the door and then
move the seat forward. The only downside I saw was that when you open
the door, you really had to push the button real hard.
Linn
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