Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:00 AM - Re: Fw: Alternator failure (Kelly McMullen)
2. 07:53 AM - Door strut (Wayne Edgerton)
3. 08:11 AM - Re: hello all (Y-it)
4. 09:21 AM - Re: Door strut (Rick Sked)
5. 09:50 AM - Re: Door strut (Tim Olson)
6. 10:13 AM - Re: Re: hello all (John Jessen)
7. 10:48 AM - Gascolator. (Fred Williams, M.D.)
8. 10:48 AM - Re: Door strut (George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 605 TES/DOA)
9. 10:49 AM - Re: Door strut (Bob-tcw)
10. 11:30 AM - Re: Door strut (Tim Olson)
11. 12:36 PM - Re: Door strut (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
12. 12:55 PM - Re: Door strut (John Cox)
13. 01:25 PM - Re: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT (Tim Olson)
14. 03:31 PM - Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT (lbgjb10)
15. 03:37 PM - Re: Door strut and nosewheel trim (John Cox)
16. 04:52 PM - Re: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT (David McNeill)
17. 06:53 PM - Re: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Alternator failure |
Suggest sending readers digest version of your story to Avweb for
consideration as FBO of the week, and/or copy AirNav. FBOs see those
comments and appreciate them.
On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 12:04 PM, Bob-tcw <rnewman@tcwtech.com> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob-tcw
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 12:19 PM
> Subject: Alternator failure
> Fellow builders,
>
> I'd like to share a little adventure we had last week and how it may
> impact my RV-10 project.
> My Dad and I were cruising along at 8500' enroute from PA down to FL in our
> Glastar when I noticed an annoying red light on the instrument panel. That
> little red light of course was a low voltage warning light, and sure enough
> we were on battery power at that point, the alternator was doing nothing
> useful at all. We requested a landing at Charlottesville VA, KCHO and
> within 15 minutes were on the ground. They let us bring our airplane inside
> a heated hangar to sort out our electrical problems. We'll we got the true
> southern hospitality treatment. A mechanic came over and offered us the
> use of any of his tools that we needed (although he was way to busy to work
> on our plane). We removed the cowling and then the alternator and ohmed out
> the field winding of the alternator, it appeared to be an open
> circuit. The alternator was a Ford Motorcraft as originally supplied with
> our 1960's vintage Lycoming 0-320. (however it had been rebuilt in
> 2001, and now had about 350 hours of run time) We asked the mechanic if he
> had any recommendations on a place to check and possibly replace our 'Ford'
> alternator. He said, "Sure, I'll call Advanced Autoparts, I think they have
> an alternator "spinner"". Sure enough, they did. So the mechanic gave us
> the keys to his truck and we visited the aviation department of Advanced
> Autoparts. Well the alternator was really dead and they actually had the
> exact replacement in stock! So $57 later we were back on our way to the
> airport. Well we put it all back together and sure enough we were back in
> business, the aircraft bus voltage was back up to 14 volts!. We thanked
> everyone over and over, took on some fuel and just over 2.5 hours after
> discovering the problem we were back in the air. We were incredibly
> fortunate that day to meet such wonderful folks as we did at KCHO. But we
> also really enjoyed the benefits of building and flying a homebuilt.
> There is no way that we would have been able to continue our journey that
> day if we were flying a certified aircraft, There were no mechanics that
> could spend their time working on our airplane on that day, And almost
> certainly they would have had to order a new alternator (that wouldn't have
> been $57!).
>
> So the lessons learned that I'm going to apply to my RV-10:
> 1) Low voltage idiot lights work, they are a must have in my book
> 2) Although we were able to safely make it to an alternate airport on
> battery power, a back-up alternator equipped engine really ups the
> convenience factor. We were incredibly lucky to get our airplane fixed and
> flying again the same day. If we had a back-up alternator and were flying
> VFR as we were, we would have probably just continued on our way to
> Florida.
> 3) Bring a decent tool kit, We had the very basic tools in our airplane
> tool kit, but I'm now going to add a small DMM (multi-meter) to the kit.
> 4) A condensed set of basic wiring schematics for the airplane could
> have been a necessity. If the alternator wasn't the problem, I really
> would have had a difficult time trouble shooting much more as I was working
> completely from memory on how I wired the plane (almost 10 years ago).
>
>
> Bob Newman
> TCW Technologies, LLC.
> www.tcwtech.com
> RV-10 40176 - finish kit
>
>
Message 2
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I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by
Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me
or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several
people about this and they're having the same problem.
A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has
a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his
problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would
pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same
problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being
finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others
I'm sure.
I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business
Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com.
The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78
each. They didn't have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they
said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in.
On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this
past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I
thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip
ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left
rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing
some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good.
Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow
storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I
rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in
Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was
cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really
liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the
ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100
miles in the dark.
About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly
noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't
real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine
was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously concerned
because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but
everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine.
So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and
landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was
causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all
surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of
mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel.
I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side to
side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened.
The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just
gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight
and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from
the rudder.
I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one
side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when
I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind
hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise.
Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this
same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional
before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up
there in the north country loosened it up.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Message 3
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Welcome Dave,
Sound like you and I are at about the same spot. I just purchased a QB wing/Fuse
and am going over the plans to find out what the next step is (which is harder
than I thought) Looks like it will be floor panels and baggage door. Its amazing
how much work is done with the QB option. Kinda seems like if I put the
lid on I could be flying tomorrow :)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227340#227340
Message 4
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Wayne,
What's with you and them nosewheels=C2- :) does anyone recommend increasi
ng the side pull tension initial set to more than 25 pounds? I plan to chec
k it on a regular basis until the washers finally seat to each other.=C2-
At what=C2- point can you=C2-stop checking the tension=C2- frequently
?
Rick S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e@grandecom.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 7:37:03 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV10-List: Door strut
I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by Va
n's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me or a p
assenger=C2-in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several peo
ple about this and they're having the same problem.
A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has a 1
0, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his problem.
I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would pass along th
e source for these in case any of you are having the same problem. Both Ron
=C2-and I have full interiors with the doors being finished with arm rest
s, so that makes them a little heavier than others I'm sure.
I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business Drive,
Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com .
The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78 eac
h. They didn=99t have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they
said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in.
On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this pas
t weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I thought I
would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip ball was const
antly out to the left so I had to keep applying left rudder. I usually don'
t have an issue with rudder so I was attributing some of it to strong cross
winds. Sounded good.
Anyway in=C2-leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow
storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I rented
into=C2-a minus 30 degrees wind-chill=C2-weather. Man after being in T
exas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was cold.
=C2-One positive of the cold was thick air and=C2-the plane was really
liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the ball
centered.=C2-We ended up with=C2-head winds and=C2-had to fly the la
st=C2-100 miles in the dark.=C2-
About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly notic
eable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't real thr
illed with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine was coming
off, well maybe not quit but close. I was=C2-obviously concerned because
any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but everything fel
t fine there and the=C2-engine parameters were all=C2-fine.
So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and landed.
The next morning I headed out to try and determine what=C2-was causing th
at problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all surfaces and
engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of mine, lifted up th
e plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel. I found that the whee
l was=C2-fairly loose and could be pushed from side to side without much
effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened. The nut for the fork
was in place but apparently over time in had just gotten more play. I tigh
tened up the nut, took it out for a test flight and the vibration was gone
and the ball was centered without help from the rudder.
I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one side
thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when I start
ed to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind hitting it
sideways causing the fluttering noise.
Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this sam
e thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional before
flying to=C2-Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up ther
e in the north country loosened it up.=C2-
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
==
Message 5
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Glad it worked out for you Wayne. I will tell you that the
nosewheel tension will probably be something that you'll have
to do about 3-4 times within the first 250 hours, and then
after that it will start to become more stable. I'm sure
it's just those parts wearing in together a little.
I'd check it maybe at 50, 100, 175, 250 or so, and then
annually after that. I too have noticed that the nosewheel
can affect rudder trim. It moves some when you use the rudder
hard. If you kick one pedal good and then look at the
ball, and then kick the other pedal good and then look at
the ball, you will see it sometimes keeps the ball one way or
the other slightly. I try to tap them back and forth a couple
times lighter and get it to be as centered as possible, and
then trim out the rest with rudder trim. I attribute the
stickyness to the 20+ lbs of breakout force required to
get the nosewheel to move to make it swing. The
propwash circle of moving air pushing against the tail
of the nose fairing may also be part of why most builders
see a little bit of out-of-trim rudder even if they build
it straight. A minor annoyance, in any case.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by
> Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me
> or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several
> people about this and they're having the same problem.
>
> A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has
> a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his
> problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would
> pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same
> problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being
> finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others
> I'm sure.
>
> I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business
> Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com.
>
> The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78
> each. They didnt have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they
> said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in.
>
> On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this
> past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I
> thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip
> ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left
> rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing
> some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good.
>
> Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow
> storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I
> rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in
> Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was
> cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really
> liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the
> ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100
> miles in the dark.
>
> About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly
> noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't
> real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine
> was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously concerned
> because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but
> everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine.
>
> So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and
> landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was
> causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all
> surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of
> mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel.
> I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side to
> side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened.
> The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just
> gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight
> and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from
> the rudder.
>
> I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one
> side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when
> I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind
> hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise.
>
> Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this
> same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional
> before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up
> there in the north country loosened it up.
>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 6
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Naaaa, it's easy. Just takes time.
What kit numbers do you folks have?
John Jessen
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Y-it
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 7:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: hello all
Welcome Dave,
Sound like you and I are at about the same spot. I just purchased a QB
wing/Fuse and am going over the plans to find out what the next step is
(which is harder than I thought) Looks like it will be floor panels and
baggage door. Its amazing how much work is done with the QB option. Kinda
seems like if I put the lid on I could be flying tomorrow :)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227340#227340
Message 7
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Topic of discussion at lunch today. Why isn't there a gascolator in the
fuel injected systems? What would be the potential problems if there
was one?
Dr Fred.
Message 8
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The day after you sell it...?
neal
<< At what point can you stop checking the tension frequently?
Rick S. >>
Message 9
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Wayne, Do you know how many lbs of force these new struts have vs.
how many lbs the struts have that came from vans? I was working on
my doors/canopy recently and decided to measure the strut force on my
van's supplied parts. I measured 120 lbs force required to compress
the strut and thought that was an amazing amount of force even given the
tight geometry of door/strut mounting brackets. thoughts??
Thanks,
Bob Newman
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 10:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door strut
I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied
by Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit
me or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to
several people about this and they're having the same problem.
A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also
has a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his
problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would
pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same
problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being
finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others
I'm sure.
I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business
Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com.
The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was
$78 each. They didn't have them in stock, they come from Germany, and
they said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in.
On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa
this past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that
I thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip
ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left
rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing
some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good.
Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow
storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I
rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in
Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was
cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really
liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the
ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100
miles in the dark.
About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly
noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't
real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine
was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously concerned
because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but
everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine.
So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and
landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was
causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all
surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of
mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel.
I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side to
side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened.
The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just
gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight
and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from
the rudder.
I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one
side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when
I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind
hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise.
Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience
this same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my
conditional before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those
landings up there in the north country loosened it up.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
Message 10
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Rick, to answer your question about > 25lbs, that's what I did the
2nd or 3rd time I did mine. With that castlenut, I could choose
between maybe 18-20lbs, or maybe 30-35lbs, so with the past
experience, I chose the higher. Now when I did the Matco axle,
I just did a guesstimate by hand and I'd say I was now in the
20's somewhere. So I'd err on the high side within reason,
if you have to choose.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Rick Sked wrote:
> Wayne,
>
>
>
> What's with you and them nosewheels :) does anyone recommend increasing
> the side pull tension initial set to more than 25 pounds? I plan to
> check it on a regular basis until the washers finally seat to each
> other. At what point can you stop checking the tension frequently?
>
>
>
> Rick S.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e@grandecom.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 7:37:03 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: RV10-List: Door strut
>
> I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by
> Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me
> or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several
> people about this and they're having the same problem.
>
> A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has
> a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his
> problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would
> pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same
> problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being
> finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others
> I'm sure.
>
> I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business
> Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com.
>
> The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78
> each. They didnt have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they
> said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in.
>
> On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this
> past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I
> thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip
> ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left
> rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing
> some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good.
>
> Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow
> storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I
> rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in
> Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was
> cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really
> liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the
> ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100
> miles in the dark.
>
> About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly
> noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't
> real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine
> was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously concerned
> because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but
> everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine.
>
> So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and
> landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was
> causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all
> surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of
> mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel.
> I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side to
> side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened.
> The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just
> gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight
> and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from
> the rudder.
>
> I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one
> side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when
> I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind
> hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise.
>
> Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this
> same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional
> before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up
> there in the north country loosened it up.
>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
> get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 11
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I'm swapping my nose wheel out with Grove unit so I thought I'd ask before lowering
the nose down.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door strut
Rick, to answer your question about > 25lbs, that's what I did the
2nd or 3rd time I did mine. With that castlenut, I could choose
between maybe 18-20lbs, or maybe 30-35lbs, so with the past
experience, I chose the higher. Now when I did the Matco axle,
I just did a guesstimate by hand and I'd say I was now in the
20's somewhere. So I'd err on the high side within reason,
if you have to choose.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Rick Sked wrote:
> Wayne,
>
>
>
> What's with you and them nosewheels :) does anyone recommend increasing
> the side pull tension initial set to more than 25 pounds? I plan to
> check it on a regular basis until the washers finally seat to each
> other. At what point can you stop checking the tension frequently?
>
>
>
> Rick S.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e@grandecom.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 7:37:03 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: RV10-List: Door strut
>
> I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied by
> Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me
> or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to several
> people about this and they're having the same problem.
>
> A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also has
> a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his
> problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would
> pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same
> problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being
> finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than others
> I'm sure.
>
> I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business
> Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611. www.JWFtechnologies.com.
>
> The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was $78
> each. They didnt have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they
> said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in.
>
> On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa this
> past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I
> thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip
> ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left
> rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing
> some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good.
>
> Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow
> storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I
> rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in
> Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was
> cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really
> liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the
> ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100
> miles in the dark.
>
> About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly
> noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who isn't
> real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the engine
> was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously concerned
> because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but
> everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine.
>
> So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and
> landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was
> causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked all
> surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of
> mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front wheel.
> I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side to
> side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had loosened.
> The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just
> gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test flight
> and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from
> the rudder.
>
> I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one
> side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason when
> I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the wind
> hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise.
>
> Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience this
> same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my conditional
> before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings up
> there in the north country loosened it up.
>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
> get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 12
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|
Attached is a beautiful shot of a Canadian, Three blade with the nose
wheel cant "In Cruise". This is one of over 100 fully painted RV-10s
from my database update. I always wondered how many were skewed in
flight due to low breakout force and the nosewheel weather veining at
cruise.
Maybe Mr. Corrigan could fill us in.
Tim, I missed the Break Out force numbers on the Nosewheel called out in
your Conditional Inspection - Landing Gear Section. Must be ole age on
my part cause you are soooo thorough. We have added it to RV6s which
required the mod for such things.
John Cox Flying N26XE in my dreams
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door strut
Glad it worked out for you Wayne. I will tell you that the
nosewheel tension will probably be something that you'll have
to do about 3-4 times within the first 250 hours, and then
after that it will start to become more stable. I'm sure
it's just those parts wearing in together a little.
I'd check it maybe at 50, 100, 175, 250 or so, and then
annually after that. I too have noticed that the nosewheel
can affect rudder trim. It moves some when you use the rudder
hard. If you kick one pedal good and then look at the
ball, and then kick the other pedal good and then look at
the ball, you will see it sometimes keeps the ball one way or
the other slightly. I try to tap them back and forth a couple
times lighter and get it to be as centered as possible, and
then trim out the rest with rudder trim. I attribute the
stickyness to the 20+ lbs of breakout force required to
get the nosewheel to move to make it swing. The
propwash circle of moving air pushing against the tail
of the nose fairing may also be part of why most builders
see a little bit of out-of-trim rudder even if they build
it straight. A minor annoyance, in any case.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> I have been having troubles, over time, with the door struts supplied
by
> Van's becoming loose and allowing the door to fall and possible hit me
> or a passenger in the head, if we're not careful. I've talked to
several
> people about this and they're having the same problem.
>
> A friend of mine who's on the same field as me, Ron Grover who also
has
> a 10, ordered some stronger struts and that seems to have solved his
> problem. I just ordered a pair for me this morning and thought I would
> pass along the source for these in case any of you are having the same
> problem. Both Ron and I have full interiors with the doors being
> finished with arm rests, so that makes them a little heavier than
others
> I'm sure.
>
> I ordered the struts from JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business
> Drive, Fairfield, OH 45014. Phone 513-769-9611.
www.JWFtechnologies.com.
>
> The struts are Stabilus, Lift-O-Mat part number 2218LP and cost was
$78
> each. They didn't have them in stock, they come from Germany, and they
> said it would take 4 to 6 weeks to get them in.
>
> On another note, I had to fly from North Texas up to northern Iowa
this
> past weekend for a funeral, burr cold, and ran into a problem that I
> thought I would pass along. On my way up I kept noticing that my slip
> ball was constantly out to the left so I had to keep applying left
> rudder. I usually don't have an issue with rudder so I was attributing
> some of it to strong cross winds. Sounded good.
>
> Anyway in leaving Iowa on Saturday, trying to get out ahead of a snow
> storm coming in, I pulled the plane out of the heated hangar space I
> rented into a minus 30 degrees wind-chill weather. Man after being in
> Texas for awhile I think I've turned into a Texas weenie, man that was
> cold. One positive of the cold was thick air and the plane was really
> liking to climb. I noticed again that I needed left rudder to keep the
> ball centered. We ended up with head winds and had to fly the last 100
> miles in the dark.
>
> About 60 out from my home base I started to hear and feeling a fairly
> noticeable fluttering noise/feel. As you can imagine my wife, who
isn't
> real thrilled with flying in the dark to begin with, thought the
engine
> was coming off, well maybe not quit but close. I was obviously
concerned
> because any time something flutters I think of control surfaces, but
> everything felt fine there and the engine parameters were all fine.
>
> So I just continued on home without making any quick movements and
> landed. The next morning I headed out to try and determine what was
> causing that problem. To make the story shorter I completely checked
all
> surfaces and engine area and then, after talking to an A&P friend of
> mine, lifted up the plane and checked the tightness of the front
wheel.
> I found that the wheel was fairly loose and could be pushed from side
to
> side without much effort. Apparently over time the tension had
loosened.
> The nut for the fork was in place but apparently over time in had just
> gotten more play. I tightened up the nut, took it out for a test
flight
> and the vibration was gone and the ball was centered without help from
> the rudder.
>
> I have to assume that when I took off, the wheel pant cantered to one
> side thus caused the need for additional rudder and for some reason
when
> I started to feel the flutter it had gone way to one side with the
wind
> hitting it sideways causing the fluttering noise.
>
> Just thought I would pass this along in case any of you experience
this
> same thing. I actually checked this wheel in June during my
conditional
> before flying to Alaska and it was ok then. Maybe all those landings
up
> there in the north country loosened it up.
>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
>
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT |
I did just get off the phone with ACK to get the answer to the
question. Yes, the E-04 is continually getting updates and
stores the data as David says, so if you did shut off the
electrical pre-crash (probably something you do very close
to impact), then THAT position would be the one transmitted.
It just stores the position as fast as the GPS sends it and
sends whatever was there last when it is activated.
And, as we saw from their website, the delivery won't be for
a couple months.
For previous Ameri-King installs, you can either cut the
old cable to the panel switch, or if you have the RJ tool
like I do, you can put a new end flipped on it, and plug it
into the ACK. So you shouldn't have to re-run wires to make
it all work.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
>
> Based on the way its wired the 406 E04 continuously gets updates and stores
> the latest GPS data. That's the reason for the power to the ELT from ship's
> power. Once the crash occurs, activation by G switch or activation from
> panel switch, the batteries of the ELT begin transmitting GPS id and
> location. Sometimes it is on multiple frequencies.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 8:59 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
>
>
> Actually, if you kept your head, it might be worth activating the ELT using
> the panel mount switch if you knew it was going to end up bad. Like, if I
> were going down over the ocean, I'd hope to hit the button while still
> flying my way to the water.
>
> I don't know the technical details, but they must have some way of capturing
> the GPS signal as long as it's coming in, even with the ELT not active. I'm
> not sure if the ELT then reports "last known position", or what...but it
> would seem that the companies that built the things must have taken into
> account that when you crash, the wiring to the unit might get trashed.
> At least I'd hope so.
>
> I may just have to call and ask about that one.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>>
>> Just means that you can't kill the master switch until just before
>> touchdown. Wherever you shut off electrical is where SAR starts.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 6:43 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
>>
>> --> <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
>>
>> Assuming before going down you will shut down your electrical system,
>> how is your GPS going to keep supplying data to the ELT?
>>
>> Lenny
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227257#227257
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT |
does anyone now whether the 'footprint' on the small unit in the panel would be
changed for the new gps-elt. i assume you would have to run a wire to the new
elt from your gps. (long way to the tail!!) larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227409#227409
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Door strut and nosewheel trim |
Attached is a beautiful shot of a Canadian, three blade with the nose
wheel canted "in Cruise". this is one of over 100 fully painted RV-10s
from my database update. I always wondered how many were skewed in
flight due to low breakout force and the nosewheel weather veining at
cruise.
maybe Mr. Corrigan could fill us in.
Tim, I missed the Break Out force numbers on the Nosewheel called out in
your conditional Inspection - Landing Gear section. Must by my ole age
on my part, cause you are sooo thorough. We have added it to several
RV6 lists which required the Mod for such things.
John Cox, Flying N26XE in my dreams
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door strut
Glad it worked out for you Wayne. I will tell you that the
nosewheel tension will probably be something that you'll have
to do about 3-4 times within the first 250 hours, and then
after that it will start to become more stable. I'm sure
it's just those parts wearing in together a little.
I'd check it maybe at 50, 100, 175, 250 or so, and then
annually after that. I too have noticed that the nosewheel
can affect rudder trim. It moves some when you use the rudder
hard. If you kick one pedal good and then look at the
ball, and then kick the other pedal good and then look at
the ball, you will see it sometimes keeps the ball one way or
the other slightly. I try to tap them back and forth a couple
times lighter and get it to be as centered as possible, and
then trim out the rest with rudder trim. I attribute the
stickyness to the 20+ lbs of breakout force required to
get the nosewheel to move to make it swing. The
propwash circle of moving air pushing against the tail
of the nose fairing may also be part of why most builders
see a little bit of out-of-trim rudder even if they build
it straight. A minor annoyance, in any case.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT |
I got off the phone with EDMO where I have an account. The 451-5 -6, -7 have
GPS capability but their cost is $1800+. Edmo sent me a flyer regarding the
Artex ME406 but it has no provision for GPS input and my cost would be $829.
Accuracy without GPS is about 3 km. All of this is a non starter. I will
wait for the ACK E-04 with GPS interface and a list of $600 (with discounts
available). I have a Mcmurdo PLB with built in GPS available for about $600.
I brief my passengers concerning location and activation of the PLB
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
I did just get off the phone with ACK to get the answer to the question.
Yes, the E-04 is continually getting updates and stores the data as David
says, so if you did shut off the electrical pre-crash (probably something
you do very close to impact), then THAT position would be the one
transmitted.
It just stores the position as fast as the GPS sends it and sends whatever
was there last when it is activated.
And, as we saw from their website, the delivery won't be for a couple
months.
For previous Ameri-King installs, you can either cut the old cable to the
panel switch, or if you have the RJ tool like I do, you can put a new end
flipped on it, and plug it into the ACK. So you shouldn't have to re-run
wires to make it all work.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
>
> Based on the way its wired the 406 E04 continuously gets updates and
> stores the latest GPS data. That's the reason for the power to the ELT
> from ship's power. Once the crash occurs, activation by G switch or
> activation from panel switch, the batteries of the ELT begin
> transmitting GPS id and location. Sometimes it is on multiple frequencies.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 8:59 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
>
>
> Actually, if you kept your head, it might be worth activating the ELT
> using the panel mount switch if you knew it was going to end up bad.
> Like, if I were going down over the ocean, I'd hope to hit the button
> while still flying my way to the water.
>
> I don't know the technical details, but they must have some way of
> capturing the GPS signal as long as it's coming in, even with the ELT
> not active. I'm not sure if the ELT then reports "last known
> position", or what...but it would seem that the companies that built
> the things must have taken into account that when you crash, the wiring to
the unit might get trashed.
> At least I'd hope so.
>
> I may just have to call and ask about that one.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> David McNeill wrote:
>>
>> Just means that you can't kill the master switch until just before
>> touchdown. Wherever you shut off electrical is where SAR starts.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny
>> Iszak
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 6:43 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT
>>
>> --> <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
>>
>> Assuming before going down you will shut down your electrical system,
>> how is your GPS going to keep supplying data to the ELT?
>>
>> Lenny
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227257#227257
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Ameri-King AK-451 ELT |
The panel switch is compatible so you don't even change that.
Also, I have a GPS signal to my APRS right next to the battery so in
my case it's one short wire run and I'm done. Should maybe be a 1-2
hr project.
Tim
On Jan 28, 2009, at 5:16 PM, "lbgjb10" <lbgjb@gnt.net> wrote:
>
> does anyone now whether the 'footprint' on the small unit in the
> panel would be changed for the new gps-elt. i assume you would have
> to run a wire to the new elt from your gps. (long way to the
> tail!!) larry
>
> --------
> Larry and Gayle N104LG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227409#227409
>
>
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