Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:20 AM - Re: OT - The hydraulic ram on my HF engine hoist failed (linn)
2. 04:22 AM - Importing an Aircraft (Wayne Hadath)
3. 04:43 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Tim Olson)
4. 05:03 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Tim Lewis)
5. 05:50 AM - Re: GRT Serial Connections (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
6. 06:03 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Michael Kraus)
7. 06:53 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Rick Sked)
8. 07:23 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Randy Lervold)
9. 07:50 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Trollinger)
10. 08:14 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Tim Olson)
11. 08:28 AM - Re: N519PJ Weigh -In (woxofswa)
12. 08:36 AM - Re: Re: N519PJ Weigh -In (Deems Davis)
13. 09:24 AM - Heat sheild for cowl (Vernon Smith)
14. 09:27 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (tom.on.the.road@juno.com)
15. 09:52 AM - Re: Heat sheild for cowl (Tim Olson)
16. 10:21 AM - OVHD console (n277dl)
17. 10:22 AM - Re: Heat sheild for cowl (Jerry Calvert)
18. 10:42 AM - Re: OVHD console (David Maib)
19. 10:43 AM - Re: OVHD console (orchidman)
20. 10:43 AM - Re: OVHD console (Sheldon Olesen)
21. 10:48 AM - Re: OVHD console (John Cox)
22. 11:05 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Robin Marks)
23. 11:05 AM - Re: OVHD console (Tim Olson)
24. 11:14 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Cox)
25. 11:28 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Tim Olson)
26. 12:02 PM - Re: Heat sheild for cowl (Jesse Saint)
27. 12:21 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Trollinger)
28. 12:35 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Robin Marks)
29. 12:37 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Robin Marks)
30. 01:17 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (tom.on.the.road@juno.com)
31. 01:23 PM - Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace (Michael Wellenzohn)
32. 01:27 PM - Positioning of Lightspeed control-box and VP-200 CU (Michael Wellenzohn)
33. 01:42 PM - Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace (Ralph E. Capen)
34. 01:48 PM - List of firewall penetrations (Michael Wellenzohn)
35. 02:35 PM - Re: List of firewall penetrations (Larry Rosen)
36. 03:17 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (linn)
37. 03:17 PM - Re: OVHD console (n277dl)
38. 03:32 PM - Re: OVHD console (lbgjb10)
39. 03:40 PM - Re: Re: OVHD console (Jeff Carpenter)
40. 03:56 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Trollinger)
41. 04:06 PM - Re: Re: OVHD console (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
42. 04:18 PM - Re: Re: OVHD console (Deems Davis)
43. 04:18 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Cox)
44. 04:18 PM - Re: Re: OVHD console (David Hertner)
45. 04:22 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Cox)
46. 04:23 PM - Re: Re: OVHD console (Tim Olson)
47. 04:39 PM - Re: Heat sheild for cowl (Chuck Weyant)
48. 05:24 PM - Re: Re: OVHD console (John Cumins)
49. 05:37 PM - Re: OVHD console (cjay)
50. 05:37 PM - Re: Re: OVHD console (Robin Marks)
51. 06:18 PM - Re: Importing an Aircraft (Edwin L (Ted) French)
52. 07:38 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Bill Schlatterer)
53. 07:48 PM - Hendricks door handles (Bob Reno)
54. 07:54 PM - Re: List of firewall penetrations (Don McDonald)
55. 08:08 PM - New picture pilot certificate (Sheldon Olesen)
56. 09:05 PM - Re: N519PJ Weigh -In (partner14)
57. 09:15 PM - Re: List of firewall penetrations (AirMike)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: OT - The hydraulic ram on my HF engine hoist failed |
Unscrew the 'lock' on the ram all the way out and remove the ball on the
bottom. Then look for metal shavings in the bottom that prevents the
ball from seating. For me it's been a common problem ..... from my
hoist to floor rams, and may happen more than once on the same item. If
your ram slowly leaks down over time ..... same problem. Holding
pressure over a long period of time is normal and doesn't hurt the ram
at all. What probably happened was when you let the hoist down the
hydraulic oil pushed trash from the machining through and it caught
under the ball. If you really tightened down on the 'lock' you may have
pressed the trash down into the 'well' and you'll have to dig it out.
Good luck!
Linn
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> It seems that the ram on my Harbor Freight engine hoist failed.
> Suddenly, after getting my engine mounted, the ram ceased ramming.
> There was no leakage. Pumping had no effect. My guess is that some
> internal seal failed. I followed the directions to bleed it. After
> making a bit of a mess, the ram still appears to have failed.
>
> I don't know what to do next. Replace the ram, the whole hoist, or
> repair.
> I'm wondering what caused it.I left the engine hanging on the hoist
> for several months (with protection but the whole weight was borne by
> the ram). Is that the reason?
>
> Advice is sought and welcome.
>
> Bill "it sure looks great up on the wheels and with the engine on it"
> Watson
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Importing an Aircraft |
The 100 hours on a Homebuilt applies to aircraft moving from the US to
Canada. In Canada we have a final inspection where you do not in the US.
Canada considers the 100 hours that have been flown as the equivalent to a
final inspection. Without the 100 hours a final inspection is required which
means opening up all the closed parts. I have not heard that there has been
a change.
Wayne
RV10 working on the wiring
F1 Rocket
2008 Rocket 100 Winner
Checked by AVG.
7:17 AM
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
I found the PPG Concept to be pretty good paint for spraying.
I'm sure there are many good ways to go though. It does
have the advantage of being available locally for me.
I do think you still have to do the necessary steps.
Scotchbrite, etching primer, sealing primer, paint.
Now if the surface was alodined, I'm not positive, but
you probably don't have much exterior alodined metal at
this time I'm guessing. If you did have the body alodined,
maybe it would be possible to skip the etching primer, but
I don't know many who are alodining the exterior first.
A couple nights ago I sat in a chair in the back of the hangar,
looking at the light reflecting off the empennage. It was
overwhelming how pretty it all looked. The paint in some
areas of the plane isn't perfect...after all, it was a DIY+help
job, but boy did that area look good to me.
I'd encourage many people to get some competent help and
give a home spray job a try...you'll save many thousands of
dollars.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
AirMike wrote:
>
> getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back
> on paint and finish
>
> 1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the
> cowling prior to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big
> problem here.
>
> 2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does
> anyone who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
>
> 3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
> traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint
> protocol I was told that you can go right to the paint from the
> alodine process??
>
> -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit -
> wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
The PPG tech line is 1-800-647-6050. They've been instructed to refer
airplane questions to their aircraft paint line (different product), so
I couched my PPG Concept questions to apply to a custom car with
aluminum, fiberglass, steel, and plexiglass components.
I'm taking the route of:
- conversion (DX533/DX503 for aluminum, DX579/DX520 for the steps)
- DP48LF epoxy primer (DP402LF catalyst)
- DCC single stage top coat (DT885 reducer and DCX61 activator), DX73
fisheye eliminator if needed
I'm going to try the single stage (DCC) topcoat on a small piece first
(rudder, perhaps) to see what kind of rivet coverage I get. I've had
lots of problems with Imron not covering rivets properly (10 years ago
on my RV-6A). If the DCC covers the rivets OK I'll press ahead. If
not, I may try PPG's basecoat/clearcoat system.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1000 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
AirMike wrote:
>
> getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on paint
and finish
>
> 1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling prior
to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
>
> 2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does anyone who
has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
>
> 3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the traditional
: scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint protocol
> I was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
> Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: GRT Serial Connections |
Sheldon,
I'm getting ready to head out to COS on a business trip but will send the info
tonight.
----- Original Message -----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
Sent: Mon Feb 23 19:33:15 2009
Subject: Re: RV10-List: GRT Serial Connections
Bob,
Is this offer still open? When it was first posted back in June I
had no need for it so I saved it just in case. I have pretty much
the same main equipment and I am having some trouble with the
interface between the 480 and 330. I've got a pair of Horizon 1's.
Also the fuel/air data between the GRT and the 480 has been a
problem. How does the 330 get its encoder data from the GRT? I'm
trying to get everything working for a trip to Farmington, NM in mid
March and a trip to avionics shop to upgrade the 480 on Fri.
I've got my hours flown off and took a trip IA to pick up my mother-
in-law for a 2-3 week stay. That 4 hour round trip sure beat a 12
hour car trip. To my surprise the gas going down was about the same
as driving. I been having fun so far.
Thanks,
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV
On Jun 11, 2008, at 3:49 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> Using GRT Wx with the WS/HS versions of the GRT requires high speed
> serial inputs to each DU (as opposed to using inter-DU communication).
> When the new HX displays are on the scene they will use USB
> directly to
> the Wx receiver (processor box not needed with the HX). Only ports
> 1 &
> 2 on the WS/HS support the 115,200 high speed serial rate. For
> redundancy there are some cases where a single device (like the
> AHRS/ADC) feeds multiple DUs.
>
> I'd be happy to email my connectivity and configuration documents to
> those interested. My panel config has the following so it's pretty
> complete starting point:
> GRT (3 screens)
> PMA-8000B
> SL-30
> GNS-480
> GTX-330
> TruTrak Digiflight II-VSGV
> GRT Weather receiver/processor
> CO Guardian 353
> AOA Pro
>
> It is a relatively minor wiring difference between the GNS-480 I'm
> using
> and a 430W and doesn't impact the serial port configuration.
>
> Bob
> N442PM
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> Curtis
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 2:47 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: GRT Serial Connections
>
>
> Jason,
>
> Your GRT configuration is and will probably continue to be a popular
> configuration. I still have not decided on which solution I'm going
> with and will probably not for a while yet even though most of the
> electrical work is done. Why don't you share with the list what you
> are trying to accomplish. Those that have sent suggestion off list,
> might I suggest sharing with the list for those that are considering
> this same configuration.
>
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/91Panel/10PanelGRT.jpg
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/91Panel/index.html
>
> Remember, for each transmit (Tx) serial line you can have multiple
> receivers (Rx). Many of your listed devices only require one or the
> other. Only a few require both Tx and Rx.
>
> GNS430; Tx Aviation data to EFIS1/2, GTX327, TT VSGV
> EFIS; Tx Icarus altitude data to GNS430, GTX327
> EFIS; Tx / Rx to - from SL-30
>
> I'll have to look up what the GRT XM Weather requires.
>
> William
> http://nerv10.com/wcurtis/
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
I've used DCC on my RV-4 inside and out as have 4 of my friends. Is
is very east to spray and is very durable. I acid etched and primed
prior to paint. I am not sure I'd spray it directly to the aluminum
without primer first....
I also have sprayed the interior of my -10 with DCC, but it Is not
flying yet.
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 24, 2009, at 7:42 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> I found the PPG Concept to be pretty good paint for spraying.
> I'm sure there are many good ways to go though. It does
> have the advantage of being available locally for me.
> I do think you still have to do the necessary steps.
>
> Scotchbrite, etching primer, sealing primer, paint.
> Now if the surface was alodined, I'm not positive, but
> you probably don't have much exterior alodined metal at
> this time I'm guessing. If you did have the body alodined,
> maybe it would be possible to skip the etching primer, but
> I don't know many who are alodining the exterior first.
>
> A couple nights ago I sat in a chair in the back of the hangar,
> looking at the light reflecting off the empennage. It was
> overwhelming how pretty it all looked. The paint in some
> areas of the plane isn't perfect...after all, it was a DIY+help
> job, but boy did that area look good to me.
> I'd encourage many people to get some competent help and
> give a home spray job a try...you'll save many thousands of
> dollars.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> AirMike wrote:
>> getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back
>> on paint and finish
>> 1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the
>> cowling prior to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big
>> problem here.
>> 2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does
>> anyone who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
>> 3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
>> traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint
>> protocol I was told that you can go right to the paint from the
>> alodine process??
>> -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit -
>> wiring and FWF
>> Read this topic online here:
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
I'm using Mike Loehle's products. Wonderfil is just that, rub it in with a towel
and prime..I've never seen such a great product. I'm aslo using Prekote, the
newest metal prep product the Airforce is using. Rub it on with a red pad and
it preps and conditions in one step. It is enviromentally safe. FWI Mike is the
guy who did the article for Van's RVator using Gen Grumpys aka Gen Miller's
RV-10 paint job. My total cost for the entire line of products was $2600 plus
shipping for four colors. This included everything, primer, filler, thinner,
Prekote.
Rick Sked
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 10:41:48 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on paint
and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling prior to
painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does anyone who
has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the traditional
: scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint protocol
I was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
> 1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling
> prior to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
I'm sure you've read the advice to ALWAYS stay with one family of products.
I've painted three planes now (two were my own) and used PPG for all
including Concept DCC. Use SmoothPrime for the first heavy coat, sand off,
then switch to PPG K38 for subsequent coats.
> 2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does anyone
> who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
Excellent product and system. Experience with it here...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Paint/paint.html
...and here...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Paint.htm
> 3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
> traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint protocol
> I was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
You absolutely need to Scotchbrite the bajeezus out of the aluminum to let
the coatings have both chemical and mechanical adhesion. You can use
self-etching primer in lieu of the etch/alodine process however. PPG makes
such a self-etch primer, DX1791 which is what I used -- no adhesion issues
whatsoever.
Randy Lervold
RV-3B, 170 hrs and a joy to fly
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
A little off topic from this, but what can you expect from a painter
if you pay to have it done. How much of the finishing work so you
still have to do yourself before taking it to a painter?
thanks,
John
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Prices vary, but I think most people end up somewhere in the
$6,000-$8,000 range if I remember right, for a full job.
Some people can take it in rough and bring it home painted,
some need to take it in finished pretty well. Of course,
if you pay by the hour it will be very beneficial to
do as much finishing as you can, and still do a good job.
It's not fun stuff. But, if you finish it yourself, just
like Rick mentioned, I think my paint total was probably
in that $2,000-2,500 range for ever last paint supply,
so you can save a lot. Enough to maybe buy a GNS-430W
or other gizmo, in some cases....and once you're up in the
air, the paint does a lot less in getting you down and home
safe than some of the other cool stuff.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Trollinger wrote:
>
> A little off topic from this, but what can you expect from a painter
> if you pay to have it done. How much of the finishing work so you
> still have to do yourself before taking it to a painter?
>
> thanks,
>
> John
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
Deems,
I hope you are better at building than math and science. Any fifth grader knows
that since the mains are at the same %MAC, you can only deduct half of the amount
of the pounds that you remove from them. I hate to tell you this, but you
are 15lbs heavier than you think.
The good news is that you easily compensate for that extra 15 by putting just your
EAA card and your favorite AMEX card on board and leaving your wallet at home.
Congrats on finishing.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231818#231818
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
;-)
Deems
woxofswa wrote:
>
> Deems,
>
> I hope you are better at building than math and science. Any fifth grader knows
that since the mains are at the same %MAC, you can only deduct half of the
amount of the pounds that you remove from them. I hate to tell you this, but
you are 15lbs heavier than you think.
> The good news is that you easily compensate for that extra 15 by putting just
your EAA card and your favorite AMEX card on board and leaving your wallet at
home.
>
> Congrats on finishing.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231818#231818
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Heat sheild for cowl |
I remember a discussion about putting heat reflective material on the insid
e of the cowl to protect it from heat. What material have people used and w
hat areas need covering?
Thanks=2C
Vern Smith (#324 finishing=3B firewall forward)
_________________________________________________________________
Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail.
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09
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
John,
It really depends on the painter. My painter helped me to do the finish
fiberglass work (sand, fill, prime, sand) to the point of perfection. I
think, mainly, because he has pride of workmanship. In other words, he
didn't want people to see his final product with my building flaws built
in.
Some painters don't care, but most want the finished product to be a
reflection of them.
I had my painter put a coat of black primer on the plane so it would show
any imperfections. Then, together, we work out the flaws. Like
everything else, it's a matter of whose time is more valuable.
Many painters will give the option of "who does what". If they feel
there is a lot of finish work to be done before paint, they may quote it
separately (so you have the option of doing it yourself, or paying them
to do it. Items like exterior window trim, I felt he could do a better
job than me.
Hope this helps.
Tom
970-420-1798
____________________________________________________________
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Heat sheild for cowl |
Van's sells a self-stick aluminum foil that is perfect for the job.
you probably want to smooth out with epoxy the inside of the cowl
so it sticks well.
I think you can mainly just worry about covering the areas where
the exhaust is close, but to be safe, I did most of my lower
cowl. It is kind of nice in that oil and junk wipe up off
of it real well, and you don't get stuff eating at the
cowling. Plus I didn't have to figure out where the hot spots
were.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Vernon Smith wrote:
>
> I remember a discussion about putting heat reflective material on the
> inside of the cowl to protect it from heat. What material have people
> used and what areas need covering?
> Thanks,
>
> Vern Smith (#324 finishing; firewall forward)
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail. Sign
> up today.
> <http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Access_022009>
>
>
Message 16
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Group...
I'm debating the ovhd console that Stein is selling. I'd just talked myself
into it but just sat in the plane and I'm a little concerned with head room.
I'm 6'5, son 6'7... any of you that have installed the console had any issues
with this... I'm not certain how deep the console is... appears to be a couple
inches.
Thoughts???
Thanks,
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231840#231840
Message 17
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| Subject: | Heat sheild for cowl |
I painted the inside of the top and bottom cowl with white 2000 degree
outdoor grill paint(Lowe's or Home Depot) and put the foil from Van's on
about 2/3 rd's of the bottom cowl on my RV6. Protects and cleans up very
well.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 9:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heat sheild for cowl
Van's sells a self-stick aluminum foil that is perfect for the job.
you probably want to smooth out with epoxy the inside of the cowl
so it sticks well.
I think you can mainly just worry about covering the areas where
the exhaust is close, but to be safe, I did most of my lower
cowl. It is kind of nice in that oil and junk wipe up off
of it real well, and you don't get stuff eating at the
cowling. Plus I didn't have to figure out where the hot spots
were.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Vernon Smith wrote:
>
> I remember a discussion about putting heat reflective material on the
> inside of the cowl to protect it from heat. What material have people
> used and what areas need covering?
> Thanks,
>
> Vern Smith (#324 finishing; firewall forward)
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail. Sign
> up today.
>
<http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Access_022009
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
Doug,
I am 6'1" and have the Flightline AC overhead console. I can bump my
headset on the overhead console switch panel when my seat is forward
a couple of notches. I can also bump my head on the Blue Sky sun
visor mounts. I do have my seat forward a couple of notches when
flying. Can't reach the pedals otherwise. Now that is legroom!
David Maib
40559
On Feb 24, 2009, at 1:20 PM, n277dl wrote:
Group...
I'm debating the ovhd console that Stein is selling. I'd just
talked myself into it but just sat in the plane and I'm a little
concerned with head room. I'm 6'5, son 6'7... any of you that have
installed the console had any issues with this... I'm not certain how
deep the console is... appears to be a couple inches.
Thoughts???
Thanks,
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and
will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231840#231840
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
I have installed the AA overhead console and I believe Stein's is the same or very
similar in shape.
>From your email I am confused. You are asking about head room and then
> I'm not certain how deep the console is... appears to be a couple inches.
>
Which dimensions are you looking for? Pilots or passengers? I can give you the
dimensions of from the cabin top, inside, to the bottom of the console, giving
you what is lost in head room in the center of the cabin.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Engine, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231846#231846
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
Doug,
I'm 6'4" and I have about 2-2.5" clearance with my seat position. I
was looking at this the other day and I was glad there was no
console. Best thing to do is to try out a seat position and measure
to the the cabin cover.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV out of phase 1
On Feb 24, 2009, at 12:20 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
> Group...
> I'm debating the ovhd console that Stein is selling. I'd just
> talked myself into it but just sat in the plane and I'm a little
> concerned with head room. I'm 6'5, son 6'7... any of you that have
> installed the console had any issues with this... I'm not certain
> how deep the console is... appears to be a couple inches.
>
> Thoughts???
>
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231840#231840
>
>
Message 21
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|
As long as you're not sitting on your sweetie's lap (on the hump) as she
flies the outer seat it allows a pretty good head rock 'n roll in
turbulence with a set of Dave Clark's on.
John at 6'3" and shrinking
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of n277dl
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 10:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: OVHD console
Group...
I'm debating the ovhd console that Stein is selling. I'd just talked
myself into it but just sat in the plane and I'm a little concerned with
head room. I'm 6'5, son 6'7... any of you that have installed the
console had any issues with this... I'm not certain how deep the console
is... appears to be a couple inches.
Thoughts???
Thanks,
Doug
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will
always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231840#231840
Message 22
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
I usually agree with Tim on all things but I doubt many builders will
find a professional to paint an RV-10 for $6,000. I would budget $8,000
as the floor for a turnkey paint job. As we all know the floor is NOT
the ceiling.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Prices vary, but I think most people end up somewhere in the
$6,000-$8,000 range if I remember right, for a full job.
Some people can take it in rough and bring it home painted,
some need to take it in finished pretty well. Of course,
if you pay by the hour it will be very beneficial to
do as much finishing as you can, and still do a good job.
It's not fun stuff. But, if you finish it yourself, just
like Rick mentioned, I think my paint total was probably
in that $2,000-2,500 range for ever last paint supply,
so you can save a lot. Enough to maybe buy a GNS-430W
or other gizmo, in some cases....and once you're up in the
air, the paint does a lot less in getting you down and home
safe than some of the other cool stuff.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
John Trollinger wrote:
<john@trollingers.com>
>
> A little off topic from this, but what can you expect from a painter
> if you pay to have it done. How much of the finishing work so you
> still have to do yourself before taking it to a painter?
>
> thanks,
>
> John
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
I agree with Sheldon, I'd try a seat position and measure it out.
I know that I'm only 6'1" or a tad more, and I come pretty close
to the cabin top. Do the test with a headset on, and in the
seat position you expect. When it's cold out in the winter and
the seat foam is still stiff, I hit the cabin top until the foam
relaxes. At that point I feel like I have good headroom.
If the overhead console doesn't cover the area directly above
your head, you would probably be OK. But if it fits right above
your head you would do well to measure it out well first.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Sheldon Olesen wrote:
>
> Doug,
>
> I'm 6'4" and I have about 2-2.5" clearance with my seat position. I was
> looking at this the other day and I was glad there was no console. Best
> thing to do is to try out a seat position and measure to the the cabin
> cover.
>
> Sheldon Olesen
> N475PV out of phase 1
> On Feb 24, 2009, at 12:20 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
>>
>> Group...
>> I'm debating the ovhd console that Stein is selling. I'd just
>> talked myself into it but just sat in the plane and I'm a little
>> concerned with head room. I'm 6'5, son 6'7... any of you that have
>> installed the console had any issues with this... I'm not certain how
>> deep the console is... appears to be a couple inches.
>>
>> Thoughts???
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Doug
>>
>> --------
>> Doug
>> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
>> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231840#231840
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
My favorite painter tagged his last job about 35% of his $10,000 fee for
finishing what the builder called "Ready for Topcoat". Randy's post on
aggressive sanding and using the same company and chemistry between
binder then topcoat is critically important. His advice is usually "Rock
Solid" the only point we depart on is the avoidance of clearcoat and
the use of a mist coat of reducer to thin down the "Orange Peel". Yes
Deems, clear does add weight and additional protection. A great painter
will sand a bunch of it off and buff it to lower the final weight.
Anyone want to add the GW of an SR22 and final sales price here?
That $10,000 did not include $5 in chemicals and $3 in custom artistic
airbrushing.
Deems shot is a great example of a delivered aircraft with three to four
color with plenty of clear overcoat protection. To which Randy Lervold
could chime in that some of the weight was the clearcoat, cause his
reducer evaporates like the air in Deems tires and the oxygen in his
tank. I wouldn't do it much different just to save the weight. It is a
chance to re-connect with the plane by doing dozens of hours of sanding
and buffing and sanding a buffing while listening to Jimmy Buffett with
a few cases of cold ones.
Randy Debauw with the first painted RV-10, did it with a friend who does
Harleys in the dead of winter during February "in his driveway" no less.
Tim gave a great encouragement of doing your own. Scott teased us with
his finished "Rocketman" wheel pants even before laying his brothers
beautiful creation down. Scott also used pearlescent white. Robin is
waiting to tease us with his pride and joy. Each to their choice. Just
budget a soda blast strip and repaint if you first choose unwisely or
your golly cool neighbor's newest Stewart System is not to your liking.
It really depends on you/and your painter/and the chemistry
John
503-453-6016
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tom.on.the.road@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
John,
It really depends on the painter. My painter helped me to do the finish
fiberglass work (sand, fill, prime, sand) to the point of perfection. I
think, mainly, because he has pride of workmanship. In other words, he
didn't want people to see his final product with my building flaws built
in.
Some painters don't care, but most want the finished product to be a
reflection of them.
I had my painter put a coat of black primer on the plane so it would
show
any imperfections. Then, together, we work out the flaws. Like
everything else, it's a matter of whose time is more valuable.
Many painters will give the option of "who does what". If they feel
there is a lot of finish work to be done before paint, they may quote it
separately (so you have the option of doing it yourself, or paying them
to do it. Items like exterior window trim, I felt he could do a better
job than me.
Hope this helps.
Tom
970-420-1798
____________________________________________________________
Click here to save cash and find low rates on auto loans.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTLaWzD9WIFeJWdfWQajaUl
LG6OBTb5U9vqCdsmHbuc3biU431xIpK/
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
That low end is something I'm digging out of old old old
discussions, so you're probably right...I actually was going
to say 6-10K, but I didn't know how accurate that would be
either.
What say the group??? Have many of you found professional
paint for $6000 or less? How about on the high end....has
anyone had to pay over $9000? And we're not talking
special deals that you got from a buddy....regular-guy
prices....what's it costing you folks to get pro paint these
days?
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> I usually agree with Tim on all things but I doubt many builders will
> find a professional to paint an RV-10 for $6,000. I would budget $8,000
> as the floor for a turnkey paint job. As we all know the floor is NOT
> the ceiling.
>
> Robin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 8:13 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
>
>
> Prices vary, but I think most people end up somewhere in the
> $6,000-$8,000 range if I remember right, for a full job.
> Some people can take it in rough and bring it home painted,
> some need to take it in finished pretty well. Of course,
> if you pay by the hour it will be very beneficial to
> do as much finishing as you can, and still do a good job.
> It's not fun stuff. But, if you finish it yourself, just
> like Rick mentioned, I think my paint total was probably
> in that $2,000-2,500 range for ever last paint supply,
> so you can save a lot. Enough to maybe buy a GNS-430W
> or other gizmo, in some cases....and once you're up in the
> air, the paint does a lot less in getting you down and home
> safe than some of the other cool stuff.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> John Trollinger wrote:
> <john@trollingers.com>
>> A little off topic from this, but what can you expect from a painter
>> if you pay to have it done. How much of the finishing work so you
>> still have to do yourself before taking it to a painter?
>>
>> thanks,
>>
>> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Heat sheild for cowl |
I used this self-stick stuff from Van's and then put a bead of RTV
around the edge of it to help hold the edges down. If you get a tear
in it, you can use RTV there as well to keep it from tearing more. It
really only needs to be where the heat from the exhaust will be close
to the cowl, but as Tim said, putting extra of it down on the bottom
helps avoid getting oil in the pores of the fiberglass.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
> Vernon Smith wrote:
>> I remember a discussion about putting heat reflective material on
>> the inside of the cowl to protect it from heat. What material have
>> people used and what areas need covering?
>> Thanks,
>> Vern Smith (#324 finishing; firewall forward)
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail.
>> Sign up today. <http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Access_022009
>> >
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Is there any benefit or drawback to painting (or getting painted) the
pieces as they are finished vs waiting to paint the whole plane
flying. It seems if I get good paint on it now it will protect it
during storage and spread the cost out over the build. With it being
small pieces could probably get a custom paint shop to do it as well
vs a aircraft paint shop.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Ok John, you really want to see my paint...I will give you a sneak
peak... I do plan to add a touch more color.
As for the Tim's question, I am paying $8K but the painter did ALL the
sanding, fill (including wing rivets). That being said I was told 3
weeks, expected 5 weeks and am passing 2 months (insert painter story
here). Oh... and Tim there are several paint jobs over $12K+. Not sure
those people will chime in but they are definitely out there (and may be
worth the difference).
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 11:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
My favorite painter tagged his last job about 35% of his $10,000 fee for
finishing what the builder called "Ready for Topcoat". Randy's post on
aggressive sanding and using the same company and chemistry between
binder then topcoat is critically important. His advice is usually "Rock
Solid" the only point we depart on is the avoidance of clearcoat and
the use of a mist coat of reducer to thin down the "Orange Peel". Yes
Deems, clear does add weight and additional protection. A great painter
will sand a bunch of it off and buff it to lower the final weight.
Anyone want to add the GW of an SR22 and final sales price here?
That $10,000 did not include $5 in chemicals and $3 in custom artistic
airbrushing.
Deems shot is a great example of a delivered aircraft with three to four
color with plenty of clear overcoat protection. To which Randy Lervold
could chime in that some of the weight was the clearcoat, cause his
reducer evaporates like the air in Deems tires and the oxygen in his
tank. I wouldn't do it much different just to save the weight. It is a
chance to re-connect with the plane by doing dozens of hours of sanding
and buffing and sanding a buffing while listening to Jimmy Buffett with
a few cases of cold ones.
Randy Debauw with the first painted RV-10, did it with a friend who does
Harleys in the dead of winter during February "in his driveway" no less.
Tim gave a great encouragement of doing your own. Scott teased us with
his finished "Rocketman" wheel pants even before laying his brothers
beautiful creation down. Scott also used pearlescent white. Robin is
waiting to tease us with his pride and joy. Each to their choice. Just
budget a soda blast strip and repaint if you first choose unwisely or
your golly cool neighbor's newest Stewart System is not to your liking.
It really depends on you/and your painter/and the chemistry
John
503-453-6016
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tom.on.the.road@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
John,
It really depends on the painter. My painter helped me to do the finish
fiberglass work (sand, fill, prime, sand) to the point of perfection. I
think, mainly, because he has pride of workmanship. In other words, he
didn't want people to see his final product with my building flaws built
in.
Some painters don't care, but most want the finished product to be a
reflection of them.
I had my painter put a coat of black primer on the plane so it would
show
any imperfections. Then, together, we work out the flaws. Like
everything else, it's a matter of whose time is more valuable.
Many painters will give the option of "who does what". If they feel
there is a lot of finish work to be done before paint, they may quote it
separately (so you have the option of doing it yourself, or paying them
to do it. Items like exterior window trim, I felt he could do a better
job than me.
Hope this helps.
Tom
970-420-1798
____________________________________________________________
Click here to save cash and find low rates on auto loans.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTLaWzD9WIFeJWdfWQajaUl
LG6OBTb5U9vqCdsmHbuc3biU431xIpK/
Message 29
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
John,
I will only speak to my unusual engine/cowl configuration.
Because I have an untested combination we had to do A LOT of R & D with
the cowl on/off much more than the standard Phase 1. ~100 times is not
an exaggeration. That would have been a bummer with it freshly painted.
Add to that the I installed under side gills, then more, then more lower
cowl mods and the thought of cutting into a painted plane (cowl
especially) would have been a heart wrenching. To my way of thinking
paint then fly may be easier, fly then paint may be better.
Robin
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Trollinger
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Is there any benefit or drawback to painting (or getting painted) the
pieces as they are finished vs waiting to paint the whole plane
flying. It seems if I get good paint on it now it will protect it
during storage and spread the cost out over the build. With it being
small pieces could probably get a custom paint shop to do it as well
vs a aircraft paint shop.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
I spoke at length to my painter. He said the range on RV-10 paint jobs
could run from $8,500, up.
Again, it's what you want.
Tom
____________________________________________________________
Click here to increase your salary by earning an online degree.
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Message 31
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| Subject: | Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
Hi,
I am planning to tape /glue Vans windscreen COM antenna to the front of the center
cabin brace.
For those who used it as well and are flying, where did you put yours?
I want to paint or put a black cover / tape over it.
Please let me know what you think.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231881#231881
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| Subject: | Positioning of Lightspeed control-box and VP-200 CU |
Hello,
I have a single Lightspeed Plasma III and a VP-200.
Where did you put the control boxes what is your experience pros & cons?
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231882#231882
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
I put mine in that place on my 6A and made it longer to make sure it would work.
I planned to have it checked by a bunch of HAM operators (also pilots) that
wanted to come see what I had built.
They hooked up their meters to it and told me that it was electrically too short
for the freqs that I wanted to use. They also indicated that the center cabin
brace could interfere with the radiation pattern of the antenna.
My recommendations:
Make it extra long - then trim it later after you get the SWR checked (with everything
else installed and running).
Invite the radio guys to come out and do the checking (unless you're a radio guy
too).
I'm still trying to figure out how to re-do mine...I do have more copper tape -
it's just the PITB factor....meanwhile, glad I have two radios for phase 1 flying
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 4.7 hrs
-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
>Sent: Feb 24, 2009 4:21 PM
>To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace
>
>
>Hi,
>I am planning to tape /glue Vans windscreen COM antenna to the front of the center
cabin brace.
>For those who used it as well and are flying, where did you put yours?
>
>I want to paint or put a black cover / tape over it.
>
>Please let me know what you think.
>
>Cheers
>Michael
>
>--------
>RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
>#511
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231881#231881
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | List of firewall penetrations |
Hello
I just thought wanted to get some feedback how/if you bundled the wires /cables
and tubes going through the firewall.
Here is the list of things which need to cross the firewall.
1) Throttle cable
2) Prop cable
3) Mixture cable
4) Alt air cable
5) Heater cable front
6) Heater cable rear
7) LSE Plasma III input cable
8) LSE ignition cables (3x)
9) Battery cable
10) Fuel pressure cable
11) Oil pressure cable
12) Manifold pressure tube
13) Oil temperature cable
14) CHT cables (6x)
15) EGT cables (6x)
16) Brake fluid container
Does anyone have a picture of how and where they did the firewall penetrations?
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231885#231885
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: List of firewall penetrations |
You may also have a fuel purge cable to pass through the FWF.
There are some more wires that will pass through
Starter contactor power to engage
Alternator field
Alternator warning signal
load shunt wires (2)
If you have a 2nd alternator you will have additional wires.
Larry
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Hello
> I just thought wanted to get some feedback how/if you bundled the wires /cables
and tubes going through the firewall.
>
> Here is the list of things which need to cross the firewall.
> 1) Throttle cable
> 2) Prop cable
> 3) Mixture cable
> 4) Alt air cable
> 5) Heater cable front
> 6) Heater cable rear
> 7) LSE Plasma III input cable
> 8) LSE ignition cables (3x)
> 9) Battery cable
> 10) Fuel pressure cable
> 11) Oil pressure cable
> 12) Manifold pressure tube
> 13) Oil temperature cable
> 14) CHT cables (6x)
> 15) EGT cables (6x)
> 16) Brake fluid container
>
> Does anyone have a picture of how and where they did the firewall penetrations?
>
> Cheers
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231885#231885
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
John Trollinger wrote:
>
> Is there any benefit
You get good paint coverage all over the part
> or drawback
You can't get good coverage in places like the wing/tail rear spar
because the ailerons/flaps/elevators/rudder is in the way.
> to painting (or getting painted) the
> pieces as they are finished vs waiting to paint the whole plane
> flying. It seems if I get good paint on it now it will protect it
> during storage and spread the cost out over the build.
If you know what your base color will be, spray that and add the trim
after the plane is assembled.
> With it being
> small pieces could probably get a custom paint shop to do it as well
> vs a aircraft paint shop.
>
Much easier to take the pieces parts to your paint shop if you go that
route.
You've bought tools and learned to rivet, why not buy tools and learn to
paint??? It isn't hat hard!
Linn
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
Thanks for the input. I have the pilot's seat in the plane and put the foam in
last weekend to check legroom for the control cables. So at lunch today, I crawled
in and sat on the hard as a rock foam (Iowa, cold garage). Any of you
that are above average height will recognize the "how many fingers stacked on
top of each other, on top of my head, will fit between me and whatever is over
me" exercise.
The answer was only a couple fingers between me and the lowest part of the canopy.
The low part was located towards the door so the ovhd console "might" fit
as it's in the center and there is more room there. That's when I started questioning
the sanity of the ovhd console for me.
The console's sure do look nice and would be great for getting lights, vents and
maybe gps antenna wires but I hate bumping my head. I already wear the clarity
aloft in-ear headset in the -7A to get a little more head room.
So.... maybe back to the drawing board and only mount something forward to mount
map lights....
Decisions, decisions...
Doug...
--------
Doug
"Fools" are always more creative than process people and will always
find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231899#231899
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
it also makes a big difference as to how you position the seat back. If you sit
VERY erect, the head room is less, but not as comfortable for me flying. One
'notch' angled back on seat back (and I have the seat itself at least a couple
notches forward) gives me lotsa more head room--6-1+ using large David Clarks
and I don't hit. larry
--------
Larry and Gayle N104LG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231903#231903
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
I'm 6' 2" and, after my ride in Dave Saylor's plane, am certain
there's not room for me and the OVHD console
On Feb 24, 2009, at 3:16 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input. I have the pilot's seat in the plane and put
> the foam in last weekend to check legroom for the control cables.
> So at lunch today, I crawled in and sat on the hard as a rock foam
> (Iowa, cold garage). Any of you that are above average height will
> recognize the "how many fingers stacked on top of each other, on
> top of my head, will fit between me and whatever is over me" exercise.
>
> The answer was only a couple fingers between me and the lowest part
> of the canopy. The low part was located towards the door so the
> ovhd console "might" fit as it's in the center and there is more
> room there. That's when I started questioning the sanity of the
> ovhd console for me.
>
> The console's sure do look nice and would be great for getting
> lights, vents and maybe gps antenna wires but I hate bumping my
> head. I already wear the clarity aloft in-ear headset in the -7A
> to get a little more head room.
>
> So.... maybe back to the drawing board and only mount something
> forward to mount map lights....
>
> Decisions, decisions...
>
> Doug...
>
> --------
> Doug
> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231899#231899
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? |
I would not mind painting myself (and a solid color base coat with the
colors after assembly is what I would do) but I am building in the
garage of my town home and not sure how conducive that is to painting.
I guess I have to research it some or see if anyone has a paint booth
in the northern Virginia area that I could use.
John
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
There are multiple variables in play here - not only are the front seats
adjustable fore/aft, you can also install the rudder pedals forward or
aft. Because the front seat rails are on a slope (up as you move
forward), having the seat more aft gives you more headroom. While maybe
a bit counterintuitive, if you're tall consider mounting the pedals aft
so you'll have the seat in a more aft position. Most people jump to
installing them in the forward position to give more legroom. Not sure
how tall a person would have to be to actually NEED the pedals installed
forward but my guess would be around 6'4".
As a datapoint, I'm 6'1" and have the pedals mounted in the forward
position. I fly with the seat in the 3rd notch forward from the aft
stop. I have an OH console and no headroom issues wearing Lightspeed
Zulu headsets.
Bob
N442PM (flying)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: OVHD console
I'm 6' 2" and, after my ride in Dave Saylor's plane, am certain
there's not room for me and the OVHD console
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
EUREKA !
At last - a good reason to feel good about being short!
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
and for Mike's benefit
Do Not Archive
Message 43
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
What a tease.
Dan has not officially surfaced and Deems has not offered what he
invested. I have seen both up close. Will fly to your's to see it close
after you approve.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Robin Marks
Sent: Tue 2/24/2009 12:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Ok John, you really want to see my paint...I will give you a sneak
peak... I do plan to add a touch more color.
As for the Tim's question, I am paying $8K but the painter did ALL the
sanding, fill (including wing rivets). That being said I was told 3
weeks, expected 5 weeks and am passing 2 months (insert painter story
here). Oh... and Tim there are several paint jobs over $12K+. Not sure
those people will chime in but they are definitely out there (and may be
worth the difference).
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 11:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
My favorite painter tagged his last job about 35% of his $10,000 fee for
finishing what the builder called "Ready for Topcoat". Randy's post on
aggressive sanding and using the same company and chemistry between
binder then topcoat is critically important. His advice is usually "Rock
Solid" the only point we depart on is the avoidance of clearcoat and
the use of a mist coat of reducer to thin down the "Orange Peel". Yes
Deems, clear does add weight and additional protection. A great painter
will sand a bunch of it off and buff it to lower the final weight.
Anyone want to add the GW of an SR22 and final sales price here?
That $10,000 did not include $5 in chemicals and $3 in custom artistic
airbrushing.
Deems shot is a great example of a delivered aircraft with three to four
color with plenty of clear overcoat protection. To which Randy Lervold
could chime in that some of the weight was the clearcoat, cause his
reducer evaporates like the air in Deems tires and the oxygen in his
tank. I wouldn't do it much different just to save the weight. It is a
chance to re-connect with the plane by doing dozens of hours of sanding
and buffing and sanding a buffing while listening to Jimmy Buffett with
a few cases of cold ones.
Randy Debauw with the first painted RV-10, did it with a friend who does
Harleys in the dead of winter during February "in his driveway" no less.
Tim gave a great encouragement of doing your own. Scott teased us with
his finished "Rocketman" wheel pants even before laying his brothers
beautiful creation down. Scott also used pearlescent white. Robin is
waiting to tease us with his pride and joy. Each to their choice. Just
budget a soda blast strip and repaint if you first choose unwisely or
your golly cool neighbor's newest Stewart System is not to your liking.
It really depends on you/and your painter/and the chemistry
John
503-453-6016
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tom.on.the.road@juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
John,
It really depends on the painter. My painter helped me to do the finish
fiberglass work (sand, fill, prime, sand) to the point of perfection. I
think, mainly, because he has pride of workmanship. In other words, he
didn't want people to see his final product with my building flaws built
in.
Some painters don't care, but most want the finished product to be a
reflection of them.
I had my painter put a coat of black primer on the plane so it would
show
any imperfections. Then, together, we work out the flaws. Like
everything else, it's a matter of whose time is more valuable.
Many painters will give the option of "who does what". If they feel
there is a lot of finish work to be done before paint, they may quote it
separately (so you have the option of doing it yourself, or paying them
to do it. Items like exterior window trim, I felt he could do a better
job than me.
Hope this helps.
Tom
970-420-1798
____________________________________________________________
Click here to save cash and find low rates on auto loans.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTLaWzD9WIFeJWdfWQajaUl
LG6OBTb5U9vqCdsmHbuc3biU431xIpK/
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
We have the cold hard seat thing beat!!!
Vertical Power Unit + Seat Heaters will allow for a comfortable bottom
temperature by the time you actually get into the plane.
The Vertical Power unit is programmable and allows you to turn on the
seats and lights while you are in the pre-start mode.
Dave
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> I'm 6' 2" and, after my ride in Dave Saylor's plane, am certain there's
> not room for me and the OVHD console
>
>
> On Feb 24, 2009, at 3:16 PM, n277dl wrote:
>
>>
>> Thanks for the input. I have the pilot's seat in the plane and put
>> the foam in last weekend to check legroom for the control cables. So
>> at lunch today, I crawled in and sat on the hard as a rock foam (Iowa,
>> cold garage). Any of you that are above average height will recognize
>> the "how many fingers stacked on top of each other, on top of my head,
>> will fit between me and whatever is over me" exercise.
>>
>> The answer was only a couple fingers between me and the lowest part of
>> the canopy. The low part was located towards the door so the ovhd
>> console "might" fit as it's in the center and there is more room
>> there. That's when I started questioning the sanity of the ovhd
>> console for me.
>>
>> The console's sure do look nice and would be great for getting lights,
>> vents and maybe gps antenna wires but I hate bumping my head. I
>> already wear the clarity aloft in-ear headset in the -7A to get a
>> little more head room.
>>
>> So.... maybe back to the drawing board and only mount something
>> forward to mount map lights....
>>
>> Decisions, decisions...
>>
>> Doug...
>>
>> --------
>> Doug
>> "Fools" are always more creative than process people and
>> will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of processes.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231899#231899
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Dave Hertner
President
Effectus AeroProducts Inc.
Kit Aircraft Component Manufacturing
Machining - Fabrication - Laser/Water-Jet Cutting
Blog: http://www.kitaircraftmods.com
Email: davehertner@effectus-aeroproducts.com
Phone: (519) 933-2055
Message 45
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Graphics and Number of colors in transition over parts have a BIG
impact. The painter, even if that is you, will decide what is best.
Good chemistry requests a min/max time to wait before sanding to apply
second coats. If done withing a few hours or days, the second
application will still etch into the previous without mechanical
intervention.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of John Trollinger
Sent: Tue 2/24/2009 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Is there any benefit or drawback to painting (or getting painted) the
pieces as they are finished vs waiting to paint the whole plane
flying. It seems if I get good paint on it now it will protect it
during storage and spread the cost out over the build. With it being
small pieces could probably get a custom paint shop to do it as well
vs a aircraft paint shop.
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
For what it's worth, I would love to have an overhead console
over the rear seat...maybe up to the thick area of the cabin
top. From there, if I just had a wire chase forward, and only
a console for the front 12" of the cabin top, I think that
would be good. It would be nice to have rear seat vents up
there, and a way to run wires forward, and then a front
console for panel lights. But, I'd be happy doing without
the bulk of the console directly above the heads. So I
don't know that I'd abandon the whole concept, but being
as tall as you are, you may want to make adjustments to
how protruding it is. You really will probably want SOME
form of lighting console on the very front. Also, if you
plan ahead, you can run wires down the support tube...just
not many of them.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
n277dl wrote:
>
> Thanks for the input. I have the pilot's seat in the plane and put
> the foam in last weekend to check legroom for the control cables. So
> at lunch today, I crawled in and sat on the hard as a rock foam
> (Iowa, cold garage). Any of you that are above average height will
> recognize the "how many fingers stacked on top of each other, on top
> of my head, will fit between me and whatever is over me" exercise.
>
> The answer was only a couple fingers between me and the lowest part
> of the canopy. The low part was located towards the door so the ovhd
> console "might" fit as it's in the center and there is more room
> there. That's when I started questioning the sanity of the ovhd
> console for me.
>
> The console's sure do look nice and would be great for getting
> lights, vents and maybe gps antenna wires but I hate bumping my head.
> I already wear the clarity aloft in-ear headset in the -7A to get a
> little more head room.
>
> So.... maybe back to the drawing board and only mount something
> forward to mount map lights....
>
> Decisions, decisions...
>
> Doug...
>
> -------- Doug "Fools" are always more creative than process
> people and will always find ways to ruin a perfectly good set of
> processes.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231899#231899
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Heat sheild for cowl |
I "painted" the insides of my cowl, both the RV9A and the RV10 with epoxy
resin. Smooth as glass and easy as pie. I experimented with a heat shield
in the nine by taking a scrap piece of aluminum sheet (12"x8"), putting down
five, quarter sized dabs of High Temp RTV and gently laid the alcohol
cleaned aluminum sheet down on the dabs of RTV ending up with a gap of about
1/4 inch. Allow to cure. It really worked great.
Chuck
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heat sheild for cowl
>
> I used this self-stick stuff from Van's and then put a bead of RTV around
> the edge of it to help hold the edges down. If you get a tear in it, you
> can use RTV there as well to keep it from tearing more. It really only
> needs to be where the heat from the exhaust will be close to the cowl,
> but as Tim said, putting extra of it down on the bottom helps avoid
> getting oil in the pores of the fiberglass.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>> Vernon Smith wrote:
>>> I remember a discussion about putting heat reflective material on the
>>> inside of the cowl to protect it from heat. What material have people
>>> used and what areas need covering?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Vern Smith (#324 finishing; firewall
>>> orward) ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>> Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail. Sign
>>> up today.
>>> <http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Access_022009
>>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
Demms I am with you. HEHHE.
Off to Salem Oregon in the Rain will try and stop and visit Vans if I get
time Friday.
John G. Cumins
President
JC'S Interactive Systems
2499 B1 Martin Rd
Fairfield Ca 94533
707-425-7100
707-425-7576 Fax
Your Total Technology Solution Provider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: OVHD console
EUREKA !
At last - a good reason to feel good about being short!
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
and for Mike's benefit
Do Not Archive
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
effectus(at)rogers.com wrote:
> We have the cold hard seat thing beat!!!
>
> Vertical Power Unit + Seat Heaters will allow for a comfortable bottom
> temperature by the time you actually get into the plane.
>
> The Vertical Power unit is programmable and allows you to turn on the
> seats and lights while you are in the pre-start mode.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
Yea, cool that you used your battery to heat your seats while you sit there and
enjoy it while you can't crank the engine!
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231930#231930
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| Subject: | Re: OVHD console |
Deems, no need to feel bad about the difference of 1 foot AGL. Heck even
your WAAS isn't that accurate.
Robin
Please Do Not Archive
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| Subject: | Importing an Aircraft |
Thanks for the replies folks. Seems I was getting the US and Canadian
requirements mixed up.
Ted
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Hadath
Sent: February 24, 2009 4:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Importing an Aircraft
The 100 hours on a Homebuilt applies to aircraft moving from the US to
Canada. In Canada we have a final inspection where you do not in the US.
Canada considers the 100 hours that have been flown as the equivalent to a
final inspection. Without the 100 hours a final inspection is required which
means opening up all the closed parts. I have not heard that there has been
a change.
Wayne
RV10 working on the wiring
F1 Rocket
2008 Rocket 100 Winner
Checked by AVG.
23/02/2009 7:17 AM
Message 52
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Follow the links below to Dupont Aviation finishes. Click on "Systems by
Substrate". I have used the Epoxy Pre-Treatment Corlar 13238s on clean but
untreated aluminum followed by Corlar 13550s primer Surfacer and feel very
comfortable that it will never turn loose. On fiberglass, I used the Loehle
pinhole filler first after coating with neat epoxy (west systems) then one
coat of the 13560s Surfacer and never saw a pinhole,... What's that ;-)
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_substrate.ht
ml
Product and technical info on the Aviation products ,...
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_tech.html
LOTS of great information on the Dupont site. The aviation finishes are
available through any Dupont Auto Refinish paint distributor. Should be in
the phone book or just call any body shop and ask them where you can get
Dupont paint.
PPG is also good, we sell it all but I like the Dupont system best.
Strongly suggest Evercoat Quantum filler and glazing compound which is also
a pinhole filler as well.
PS, THEY ARE ALL EXPENSIVE,... DON'T EVEN CONSIDER THE DIFFERENCE IN
PRICE,... GET THE SYSTEM THAT WORKS BEST AND THE PRICE WILL COME OUT PRETTY
CLOSE AT THE END OF THE DAY. The "difference" in material costs isn't
really very material in the scheme of things.
Bill S
7a finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on
paint and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling prior
to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does anyone
who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint protocol I
was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
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| Subject: | Hendricks door handles |
Hello gang,
Any ideas as to the best process of installation for a Hendrick
door handle and necessary parts that must be conditioned to make it work
on a rv10? I believe this subject was covered before but cannot find.
Thanks. R. J. Reno
____________________________________________________________
Looking for insurance? Compare and save today. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTInoKDVgmaNNwEIDfk1cXkSQYRAu1i98rnKjWFruNwqMUtoFexM4I/
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: List of firewall penetrations |
I really don't have any great shots of waht you want.... but I can shoot so
me tomorrow.- Fo any explainations, let's arrange a time that both of us
are looking at the same pics.
What time zone are you in?- My number is 916-801-8402.- Evenings 6-11 b
est for me.
Don McDonald
--- On Tue, 2/24/09, Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10@wellenzohn.net> wrote:
From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Subject: RV10-List: List of firewall penetrations
<rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
Hello
I just thought wanted to get some feedback how/if you bundled the wires /ca
bles
and tubes going through the firewall.
Here is the list of things which need to cross the firewall.
1) Throttle cable
2) Prop cable
3) Mixture cable
4) Alt air cable
5) Heater cable front
6) Heater cable rear
7) LSE Plasma III input cable
8) LSE ignition cables (3x)
9) Battery cable
10) Fuel pressure cable
11) Oil pressure cable
12) Manifold pressure tube
13) Oil temperature cable
14) CHT cables (6x)
15) EGT cables (6x)
16) Brake fluid container
Does anyone have a picture of how and where they did the firewall penetrati
ons?
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (engine, prop, finishing)
#511
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=0A=0A=0A
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| Subject: | New picture pilot certificate |
I saw something, in I think an AOPA publication, that said pilots
needed to have pictures on their licenses by sometime next year. I
thought that should just do it now before I forgot all about it. I
looked up the appropriate FAA website and gave them the required
information and a source for a picture ( state drivers license and
passport were 2 of the choices). I made a change to my address and
REDUCED my weight. Today I received my brand new plastic pilot's
license. My smiling visage is nowhere to be seen on this piece of
plastic unless I look like Wilbur and Orville on the back of the
license. While the new license is quite good looking I'm sure my
smiling face would have improved it immensely. Now I out $4 ($2
each for the license and repairman's certificate) and I don't have
clue as to how to get it fixed. Is there an Office of FAA Screw-
ups? Never mind, I think I answered my own question.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV
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| Subject: | Re: N519PJ Weigh -In |
Deem's and I had been emailing last week because both our 10's were set to be weighed...
mine last Sat, and Deems' yesterday. Anyway, since he made his public,
I guess I should, in case someone is tracking this info. Weigh in included
all upholstery, all carpet, balanced wheel pants, and the following painted;
interior, wheel pants, gear leg fairings, and hs/vs fairing.
N414DM Left=639, Right=627, Nose=369....... Total = 1635
Mine was weighed prior to our meeting of the SacRvators (Sacramento).
As you can see, sorry about the large pics, we had over 25 RV's fly in and about
60 people, as quite a few reside at the Lincoln airport already, no need to
fly in. I guess I did a decent job because I was only made aware of one potential
problem, and it's fixed already.
How about the 3 10's lined up?
Don McDonald
#40636
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
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| Subject: | Re: List of firewall penetrations |
We all have different configurations except for the - Throttle, Mix, prop and alt
air cables (and the manifold pressure sensor). As stated previously, I feel
that the stainless steel heater valves are a mandatory option for fire safety.
The eye ball openings are probably the best way to go for max fire safety, but
they are verrrrry expensive. I am opting to use a high quality fire block caulk
and nylon openings
I have a bunch of pictures that I will send to anyone who contacts me off line.
I took them at OSH '08. They are too large to post (1.5-2 meg)
Just a suggestion to the newbies here - if you go to OSH take a LOT of pictures
of the RV10's there. I took 300 pics last year and they have been invaluable
in finishing my project
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231966#231966
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