Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:43 AM - Re: stick grips (nukeflyboy)
2. 04:55 AM - Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace (nukeflyboy)
3. 06:32 AM - Re: Financing/Insurance (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
4. 06:44 AM - Re: Financing/Insurance (Kelly McMullen)
5. 08:21 AM - Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
6. 08:32 AM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (jim@CombsFive.Com)
7. 08:32 AM - Re: Financing/Insurance (Albert Gardner)
8. 08:33 AM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (Byron Gillespie)
9. 08:34 AM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
10. 08:35 AM - Phase I Log book wording? (jim@CombsFive.Com)
11. 08:42 AM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
12. 08:43 AM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (jim@CombsFive.Com)
13. 08:43 AM - Re: Re: stick grips (Robin Marks)
14. 08:46 AM - Re: Phase I Log book wording? (Rene)
15. 08:51 AM - Re: Phase I Log book wording? (jim@CombsFive.Com)
16. 09:10 AM - Re: Aircraft Tow (Paul Grimstad)
17. 09:32 AM - Liability Insurance (partner14)
18. 09:42 AM - Re: Financing/Insurance (David McNeill)
19. 09:42 AM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (David McNeill)
20. 09:46 AM - Re: Phase I Log book wording? (David McNeill)
21. 09:46 AM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (David McNeill)
22. 10:00 AM - ASRS (David McNeill)
23. 10:03 AM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (linn)
24. 10:04 AM - Re: Liability Insurance (linn)
25. 10:41 AM - Re: ASRS (Tim Olson)
26. 11:09 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Cox)
27. 01:34 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
28. 01:37 PM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (Chris)
29. 02:47 PM - wiring hole in the spar? (David McNeill)
30. 03:12 PM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Cox)
31. 05:44 PM - F-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled (Patrick Pulis)
32. 05:55 PM - Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... (AirMike)
33. 06:16 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... (Tim Olson)
34. 06:19 PM - Re: F-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled (jim@CombsFive.Com)
35. 06:55 PM - Re: Aircraft Tow (richard sipp)
36. 07:34 PM - Re: F-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled (Patrick Pulis)
37. 08:34 PM - Re: wiring hole in the spar? (Vernon Smith)
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I am using the Infinities but have no flying time with them. Switch setup will
be the same as Tim's since following his recommendations is a good rule of thumb.
If you get a form fitting grip like the Infinities, be sure to "clock" them inboard
about 15 degrees when you mount them - don't mount them straight up. This
will keep your wrist in line with your arm as it lies across your lap. If you
mount it straight your wrist will be bent back in an uncomfortable position.
do not archive
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232398#232398
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
Michael,
I think that is not a good idea for a couple reasons. That steel post will interfere
with the radiation pattern making transmissions in some directions problematic.
It is also your receiving antennae and will have the same challenge.
To work at all it will have to be mounted on the plexi in front of the post
and will look like hell. Do not underestimate the radiofrequency interference
that it can generate which causes problems with many electronic devices (engine
monitors, EFDs, etc.) which will be directly below it. It works acceptably
on a bubble canopy if you are in a RV-6 and looking for a low cost alternative
to a commercial comm antenna. It is not a good choice for an RV-10.
do not archive
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232400#232400
Message 3
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| Subject: | Financing/Insurance |
I just went through this 3 months ago. Probably a good thing that Airfle
et is now saying they are not loaning because they tried to royally screw m
e. Long story short, they were using NAFCO to underwrite their loan becaus
e they were not doing it at the time and tacked on their interest and fees
on top of NAFCO's. Can you say 50% of the principal amount in Interest in
5 years! It wasn't pretty and I wouldn't touch Airfleet with a 20 foot pol
e. They didn't even tell NAFCO all the relevant information and ended up q
uoting the wrong loan type. Well I went with NAFCO directly and was very p
leased for the most part.
All of what you said sounds normal for their completed aircraft loan whic
h they will give if you have the major components already even if you are n
ot done. With that, it's a full 20 year loan at the lower interest rate ra
ther than a short term up near 10%. As you discovered the down side is the
y need flying type coverage. Jenny Estes at NationAir was very helpful in
sorting out the in motion but not flying insurance they really needed. The
checking out in a -10 requirement is a new one and I certainly didn't do t
hat. I do have a Commercial with Multi and an IFR rating and around 600 ho
urs though so that might have had something to do with it. I would ask for
clarification on that. Unless you can find a local bank, your only option
at the moment really is NAFCO.
Give me a holler if you need any more info.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 11:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Financing/Insurance
I have decided to pursue some financing to move my project forward a bit fa
ster. NAFCO will finance the project, but wants me to have FULL coverage f
lying insurance to loan on firewall forward parts (engine etc.) They think
I may go fly the thing without insurance once I get the engine hung and be
out their money if I fold it up without coverage. Plausible I guess. Her
e is an insurance quote I got from an agent they recommended. I told the a
gent I have about 200 hours total with a high perf/complex endorsement and
15 hours in a V35 and no IFR. (I plan to be IFR rated by the end of summer
.) The hull value is only 110k for now because I plan to borrow about 100k
. I will raise this before I fly. I guess they want me to get a checked o
ut in a -10 before they loan. Does this all sound reasonable? Any suggest
ions on other lenders? EAA's Air Fleet Capital says they are not lending o
n experimentals now. Thanks for input.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Ajruk84@aol.com<mailto:Ajruk84@aol.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 2:22 PM
Subject: Fwd: Rukavina Aircraft Insurance (N89DA)
Hi Dave:
I received an alternative quote today from Aerospace Managers. It is slight
ly better than the AIG quote.
2008 RV 10 N89DA
Hull value: $110,000
Deductibles: $250 not in motion / $2500 in motion
Med pay: $3000 per seat
Liability: $1,000,000 / $100,000 per passenger
Pilot: Dave Leikam to receive 10 hours dual instruction and 15 full stop la
ndings all in make and model prior to solo.
Annual premium: $2,474
Thank you!
Tony Rukavina
Rukavina Aircraft Insurance
2100 Sedalia Lane
Lexington, KY 40513
866-296-9665 toll free phone
866-563-3299 fax
www.rukair.com<http://www.rukair.com/>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Financing/Insurance |
Any recommendations for companies to buy insurance of components
during build? I wasn't worried during the emp/cone construction, but
think I will want some coverage once the QB kit arrives. All will be
stored in my locked hangar, none at home.
On Sat, Feb 28, 2009 at 7:28 AM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
<rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:
> I just went through this 3 months ago. Well I went with NAFCO directly and
was very
> pleased for the most part.
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
before installation of the constant speed prop?
I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the
metal cup.
Thanks in advance
Bill
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Yep, I needs to be removed. Oil from the prop governor gets to the
prop via the center of the crank shaft.
I don't the methods
used to remove it.
Jim C
N312F - Flying (Phase I - 38.2
Hours!)
Watson
<MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Does the metal cup
pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
before
installation of the constant speed prop?
I assume that cup is
in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
specific
reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between
constant
speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address
removal of the
metal cup.
Thanks in advance
Bill
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| Subject: | Financing/Insurance |
I've used Nationair (nationair.com) for years, works ok for me.
They have builders policies as well as when it's flying.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
Any recommendations for companies to buy insurance of components
during build? I wasn't worried during the emp/cone construction, but
think I will want some coverage once the QB kit arrives. All will be
stored in my locked hangar, none at home.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Hi Bill:
I attached a copy of the Lycoming SI1435 that should cover it pretty
well. I went through the same questions. If it doesn't show up you can
search the nes and locate it.
Byron
N253RV Assigned
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Mauledriver Watson
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540
<MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
before installation of the constant speed prop?
I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the
metal cup.
Thanks in advance
Bill
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Aahhh, nevermind. I've re-read SI-1435 a third time and see that I must
"Remove expansion plug for Constant Speed operation". Seems pretty
clear now.
Thanks.
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be
> removed before installation of the constant speed prop?
>
> I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find
> a specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
> documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between
> constant speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address
> removal of the metal cup.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Bill
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Phase I Log book wording? |
We are almost done with our Phase I time.
Can someone
point me to the exact wording or phrases that should be put into the
logs?
Thanks, Jim C
N312F - Flying Phase I (38.2
Hours) One VERY FUN airplane to fly!
FYI - There is an RV
Fly-In at the Madison Richmond Airport (I39) next Saturday March
7th. If anyone is close by come on. It's usually a 9 to 4
event and we get quite a few aircraft (100+). To date there has not
been a -10 there. There will be at least one this year!
Do Not Archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
I don't know the method to remove it either. Drill a hole and pry seems
crude. Looks like it has some sealant on it.
Thanks.
jim@CombsFive.Com wrote:
> Yep, I needs to be removed. Oil from the prop governor gets to the
> prop via the center of the crank shaft.
>
> I don't the methods used to remove it.
>
> Jim C
> N312F - Flying (Phase I - 38.2 Hours!)
>
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
> before installation of the constant speed prop?
>
> I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
> specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
> documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
> speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the
> metal cup.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Bill
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Another comment,
I have a used engine from a Piper
Aztec. The prop on the Aztec goes to full feather on low oil
pressure (Course Pitch / Low RPM). The Hartzel prop used on our
application goes to fine pitch / high RPM on low oil pressure. With
the Aztec governor, we were able to cycle the prop at low RPM on the
ground during run-up, but not in flight. Changing the governor for
the MT unit from Vans solved the problem.
Jim Combs
40192 - N312F - Flying
Message 13
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I clock mine nearly 45 degrees. It takes a considerable turn to get them
at the correct and natural angle for how your arm and hand rest. It's
not hard to figure out what angle you need, just place your seat(s) in
and see where you hand naturally falls.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 4:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: stick grips
I am using the Infinities but have no flying time with them. Switch
setup will be the same as Tim's since following his recommendations is a
good rule of thumb.
If you get a form fitting grip like the Infinities, be sure to "clock"
them inboard about 15 degrees when you mount them - don't mount them
straight up. This will keep your wrist in line with your arm as it lies
across your lap. If you mount it straight your wrist will be bent back
in an uncomfortable position.
do not archive
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232398#232398
Message 14
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| Subject: | Phase I Log book wording? |
They should be in your operating limitations.
Here are mine..
Phase 1 All test flights at a minimum must be conducted DAY VFR to the
scope
and detail of Advisory Circular 90-89 (Amateur-built Aircraft and
Ultralight
Flight Testing Handbook). Following satisfactory completion of the
required
number of flight hours in the flight test area, the pilot shall certify
in
the records that the aircraft has been shown to comply with =A7
91.319(b).
Compliance with =A7 91.319(b) shall be recorded in the aircraft records
with
the following or a similarly worded statement:
"I certify that the prescribed flight test hours have been
completed and the aircraft is controllable throughout its normal range
of
speeds and throughout all maneuvers to be executed, has no hazardous
operating characteristics or design features, and is safe for operation.
The
following aircraft operating data has been demonstrated during the
flight
testing: speeds, Vso ______, Vx ______, and Vy ______, and the
weight______ and CG location______ at which they were obtained".
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jim@CombsFive.Com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 9:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Phase I Log book wording?
We are almost done with our Phase I time.
Can someone point me to the exact wording or phrases that should be put
into
the logs?
Thanks, Jim C
N312F - Flying Phase I (38.2 Hours) One VERY FUN airplane to fly!
FYI - There is an RV Fly-In at the Madison Richmond Airport (I39) next
Saturday March 7th. If anyone is close by come on. It's usually a 9 to
4
event and we get quite a few aircraft (100+). To date there has not
been a
-10 there. There will be at least one this year!
Do Not Archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Phase I Log book wording? |
Excellent!
Thanks, Jim C
------------------------------------
They should be in
your operating limitations.
Rene'
801-721-6080
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tow |
Albert,
Great idea!
How about some solar panels to recharge, then you could apply for a tax
credit as a eco friendly renewable energy vehical.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 450
Portland, Or.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 10:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
I finished my tow machine and here is a picture. I have about $150 in it-I
didn't have to buy a gear head motor, the wheel is from Harbor Freight at
$9, the 2 batteries from Wal-Mart (the motor is a 24V so I have 2 speeds)
but I kept buying the 1" square tube from Lowes and it was expensive. 2
problems: the space between the wheel pant and the tow wheel is too small so
I have to extend the arms about 3" and I need to add a light so I can hook
up in the dark. I'm thinking about a seat also so I can ride it around. I
got the idea from a Kitplanes article a few years back.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 17
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| Subject: | Liability Insurance |
Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra anything.
Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
Message 18
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| Subject: | Financing/Insurance |
Builders insurance can be had for 1% of hull value per year. This includes
liability as well as hull; just don't start the engine until you have flight
insurance.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Financing/Insurance
Any recommendations for companies to buy insurance of components during
build? I wasn't worried during the emp/cone construction, but think I will
want some coverage once the QB kit arrives. All will be stored in my locked
hangar, none at home.
On Sat, Feb 28, 2009 at 7:28 AM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
<rvbuilder@sausen.net> wrote:
> I just went through this 3 months ago. Well I went with NAFCO
> directly and was very pleased for the most part.
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Yes remove it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Mauledriver
Watson
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 9:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540
--> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
before installation of the constant speed prop?
I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the metal
cup.
Thanks in advance
Bill
Message 20
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| Subject: | Phase I Log book wording? |
see you operating limitations for the wording...
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim@CombsFive.Com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 9:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Phase I Log book wording?
We are almost done with our Phase I time.
Can someone point me to the exact wording or phrases that should be put into
the logs?
Thanks, Jim C
N312F - Flying Phase I (38.2 Hours) One VERY FUN airplane to fly!
FYI - There is an RV Fly-In at the Madison Richmond Airport (I39) next
Saturday March 7th. If anyone is close by come on. It's usually a 9 to 4
event and we get quite a few aircraft (100+). To date there has not been a
-10 there. There will be at least one this year!
Do Not Archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
I believe we used slotted screwdriver to punch a hole and it came out
easily.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim@CombsFive.Com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540
Yep, I needs to be removed. Oil from the prop governor gets to the prop via
the center of the crank shaft.
I don't the methods used to remove it.
Jim C
N312F - Flying (Phase I - 38.2 Hours!)
<MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
before installation of the constant speed prop?
I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the
metal cup.
Thanks in advance
Bill
Message 22
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There is a new file on line form. See asrs.arc.nasa.gov/
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
If I remember right ...... Along with removing the front plug, you
must also put in the aft plug. In the fixed-pitch mode, oil flows past
the nose bearing into the hollow crank and back out through a hole next
to the #1 crank throw. With the constant speed, you need to pressurize
that hollow part of the crank .... hence the aft plug. Since I've never
played with an IO-540 before I may just be blowing smoke, but .......
Linn
Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Aahhh, nevermind. I've re-read SI-1435 a third time and see that I
> must "Remove expansion plug for Constant Speed operation". Seems
> pretty clear now.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Mauledriver Watson wrote:
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>
>> Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be
>> removed before installation of the constant speed prop?
>>
>> I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't
>> find a specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in
>> the documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between
>> constant speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address
>> removal of the metal cup.
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease requirements. I
dropped it from in-motion this year. No hull for many years.
Linn
partner14 wrote:
>
> Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra anything.
> Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
> Thanks guys.
>
> Don McDonald
>
> --------
> Don A. McDonald
> 40636
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 25
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Thanks David, I always thought it was a good idea to keep a
form on hand, but now it looks like they have online
submission...that's really cool...now all you need is the
link.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
David McNeill wrote:
> There is a new file on line form. See *asrs*.arc.nasa.gov/
>
> *
Message 26
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
As Bill closed with price of material, Do your research with the local
Refinish paint distributor (of your choice) on the difference between
main topcoat colors. Randy used GMC White, Tim used PPG Base Mixing
Color white, Dan used BMW Silver and Jim Hergert used Rainbow paint (the
one in the Fast Glass Garmin ads). Your budget and decision process
will be amended based on your early choice.
Remember that topcoat canopy color selection has a big impact on heat
reflection and buildup through the canopy when sitting on the ramp.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 7:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
<billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Follow the links below to Dupont Aviation finishes. Click on "Systems
by
Substrate". I have used the Epoxy Pre-Treatment Corlar 13238s on clean
but
untreated aluminum followed by Corlar 13550s primer Surfacer and feel
very
comfortable that it will never turn loose. On fiberglass, I used the
Loehle
pinhole filler first after coating with neat epoxy (west systems) then
one
coat of the 13560s Surfacer and never saw a pinhole,... What's that ;-)
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_substrat
e.ht
ml
Product and technical info on the Aviation products ,...
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_tech.htm
l
LOTS of great information on the Dupont site. The aviation finishes are
available through any Dupont Auto Refinish paint distributor. Should be
in
the phone book or just call any body shop and ask them where you can get
Dupont paint.
PPG is also good, we sell it all but I like the Dupont system best.
Strongly suggest Evercoat Quantum filler and glazing compound which is
also
a pinhole filler as well.
PS, THEY ARE ALL EXPENSIVE,... DON'T EVEN CONSIDER THE DIFFERENCE IN
PRICE,... GET THE SYSTEM THAT WORKS BEST AND THE PRICE WILL COME OUT
PRETTY
CLOSE AT THE END OF THE DAY. The "difference" in material costs isn't
really very material in the scheme of things.
Bill S
7a finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on
paint and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling
prior
to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does
anyone
who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint
protocol I
was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
Message 27
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
As Bill closed with price of material, Do your research with the local
Refinish paint distributor (of your choice) on the difference between
main topcoat colors. Randy used GMC White, Tim used PPG Base Mixing
Color white, Dan used BMW Silver and Jim Hergert used Rainbow paint (the
one in the Fast Glass Garmin ads). Your budget and decision process
will be amended based on your early choice.
Remember that topcoat canopy color selection has a big impact on heat
reflection and buildup through the canopy when sitting on the ramp.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 7:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
<billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Follow the links below to Dupont Aviation finishes. Click on "Systems
by
Substrate". I have used the Epoxy Pre-Treatment Corlar 13238s on clean
but
untreated aluminum followed by Corlar 13550s primer Surfacer and feel
very
comfortable that it will never turn loose. On fiberglass, I used the
Loehle
pinhole filler first after coating with neat epoxy (west systems) then
one
coat of the 13560s Surfacer and never saw a pinhole,... What's that ;-)
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_substrat
e.ht
ml
Product and technical info on the Aviation products ,...
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_tech.htm
l
LOTS of great information on the Dupont site. The aviation finishes are
available through any Dupont Auto Refinish paint distributor. Should be
in
the phone book or just call any body shop and ask them where you can get
Dupont paint.
PPG is also good, we sell it all but I like the Dupont system best.
Strongly suggest Evercoat Quantum filler and glazing compound which is
also
a pinhole filler as well.
PS, THEY ARE ALL EXPENSIVE,... DON'T EVEN CONSIDER THE DIFFERENCE IN
PRICE,... GET THE SYSTEM THAT WORKS BEST AND THE PRICE WILL COME OUT
PRETTY
CLOSE AT THE END OF THE DAY. The "difference" in material costs isn't
really very material in the scheme of things.
Bill S
7a finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on
paint and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling
prior
to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does
anyone
who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint
protocol I
was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Funny you mention this I just finished putting the prop on to do cowling
/spinner fitting and went through the same questions last night. My Van's
IO-540 came with a sheet of warnings one of which was to remove the plug,
but no method. I found in archives where someone used a dent puller, I'll
probably punch a hole and then use the dent puller if its stubborn.
-Chris
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Does the metal cup pressed into the end of the crank have to be removed
> before installation of the constant speed prop?
>
> I assume that cup is in place for fixed pitch props. But I can't find a
> specific reference to the need or procedure for removing it in the
> documentation. Even reading the procedure for changing between constant
> speed and fixed configurations doesn't directly address removal of the
> metal cup.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Bill
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | wiring hole in the spar? |
In the plans where the stall warning is addressed, they refer to a snap
bushing hole through the main spar for routing the wring to the aft portion
of the wing and to the fuselage. Anyone know how big the hole is? I may have
other uses for the hole.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Your 401K is stronger than mine. It IS gorgeous paint as is JetGlow
(S&W). My painter prefers PPG Concept and my background is about 60%
Imron. Even the Saudi Prince might have trouble today with some colors.
Short of resorting to Stewart's I am wondering if anyone has bested
Tim's Base White per gallon? I can do some great pricing on Landing
Gear Grey epoxy.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sat 2/28/2009 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
As Bill closed with price of material, Do your research with the local
Refinish paint distributor (of your choice) on the difference between
main topcoat colors. Randy used GMC White, Tim used PPG Base Mixing
Color white, Dan used BMW Silver and Jim Hergert used Rainbow paint (the
one in the Fast Glass Garmin ads). Your budget and decision process
will be amended based on your early choice.
Remember that topcoat canopy color selection has a big impact on heat
reflection and buildup through the canopy when sitting on the ramp.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 7:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
<billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Follow the links below to Dupont Aviation finishes. Click on "Systems
by
Substrate". I have used the Epoxy Pre-Treatment Corlar 13238s on clean
but
untreated aluminum followed by Corlar 13550s primer Surfacer and feel
very
comfortable that it will never turn loose. On fiberglass, I used the
Loehle
pinhole filler first after coating with neat epoxy (west systems) then
one
coat of the 13560s Surfacer and never saw a pinhole,... What's that ;-)
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_substrat
e.ht
ml
Product and technical info on the Aviation products ,...
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/avi/s/product/avi_tech.htm
l
LOTS of great information on the Dupont site. The aviation finishes are
available through any Dupont Auto Refinish paint distributor. Should be
in
the phone book or just call any body shop and ask them where you can get
Dupont paint.
PPG is also good, we sell it all but I like the Dupont system best.
Strongly suggest Evercoat Quantum filler and glazing compound which is
also
a pinhole filler as well.
PS, THEY ARE ALL EXPENSIVE,... DON'T EVEN CONSIDER THE DIFFERENCE IN
PRICE,... GET THE SYSTEM THAT WORKS BEST AND THE PRICE WILL COME OUT
PRETTY
CLOSE AT THE END OF THE DAY. The "difference" in material costs isn't
really very material in the scheme of things.
Bill S
7a finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
getting toward the finish line and I would like to get some feed back on
paint and finish
1. Cowling - how many are using just smoothprime to finish the cowling
prior
to painting? Sealing pinholes seems to be a big problem here.
2. PPG DCC Concept seems to be a very popular paint right now. Does
anyone
who has used it have any feedback - (expensive)
3. I was told today that PPG DCC Concept does not need to follow the
traditional : scotch brite (aluminum) - alodine - prime - paint
protocol I
was told that you can go right to the paint from the alodine process??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231758#231758
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | F-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled |
Hi there I've noticed that my baggage bay door lacks any holes at all (no s
ide frame or door lock holes at all - just a blank sheet).- Could someone
please check their kit if you haven't already completed Section 34 (or if
you can remember) to see if there are supposed to be pre-drilled holes to m
atch drill all the other door parts to.=0A=0AMany thanks in antcipation.=0A
=0ARegards=0A=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0A#40299--- VH-XPP=0AAdelaide, South
Australia=0A=0A=0A Stay connected to the people that matter most with
a smarter inbox. Take a look http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... |
Ugg - what an ugly job. My 2 cents worth. First read the instructions like it
says in vans instruction kit. The diagrams suck, so you have to read them and
look at them several times. Also read Tim Olsen's excellent post on this item
- it has a lot of good info. You kind of have to work on all of the parts together
but start on the nose extension early. The whole process requires that you
put on and take off the cowl about 50 times.
1. I think that the reason that Tim had trouble on the alignment is that the box
is twisted as it comes from Vans - it is not straight.
2. I fitted my upper aluminum part of the box to the nose to get the length right
and the alignment. It seemed to work out well. Not so great on the length,
but great on the alignment. I cut off too much of the nose extension and had to
glue it back on.
3. Do not overlook DLM's post on reinforcing the alt air system. Do not want to
suck anything into your nice engine. Essentially, he says to put a reinforcement
ring INSIDE the FAB to reinforce the flimsy fiberglass so that your rivets
do not get sucked into the engine. His glass box failed at the rivets at 100
hrs. Thanks for the heads up Dave
4. Finally, spend a bit of time getting the cut out right for the mixture lever.
It is a bit difficult to get the cut out just right on the pilot side of the
box, and you do not want to have to redo it.
5. Be mindful of the orientation of everything especially the recessed aluminum
top to the FAB and the dimple direction
Any other hint on this ugly job will help all
Good luck on an ugly job. If you need pics or anything leave me a message
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232536#232536
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... |
Mike, I wasn't sure which thing you were talking about that
I wrote...is this the page?
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/engine/20051127/index.html
It's been so long that I don't remember as much about it
as I should, other than that glassing the nozzle on the cowl
was a pain in the butt, building the FAB was a pain in the
butt, and the directions kind of stunk. :) It really wasn't
THAT bad, but by the time you're at this step, building
and fiberglass is starting to get old. I have yet to put
the reinforcement ring inside mine, but thanks for bringing
it up again...I need to remember to do that next time the
cowl is off.
There are definitely more fun parts of the plane to build.
I was just thrilled that being an IO-540, I didn't need
to install carb heat.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
AirMike wrote:
>
> Ugg - what an ugly job. My 2 cents worth. First read the
> instructions like it says in vans instruction kit. The diagrams suck,
> so you have to read them and look at them several times. Also read
> Tim Olsen's excellent post on this item - it has a lot of good info.
> You kind of have to work on all of the parts together but start on
> the nose extension early. The whole process requires that you put on
> and take off the cowl about 50 times.
>
> 1. I think that the reason that Tim had trouble on the alignment is
> that the box is twisted as it comes from Vans - it is not straight.
>
> 2. I fitted my upper aluminum part of the box to the nose to get the
> length right and the alignment. It seemed to work out well. Not so
> great on the length, but great on the alignment. I cut off too much
> of the nose extension and had to glue it back on.
>
> 3. Do not overlook DLM's post on reinforcing the alt air system. Do
> not want to suck anything into your nice engine. Essentially, he says
> to put a reinforcement ring INSIDE the FAB to reinforce the flimsy
> fiberglass so that your rivets do not get sucked into the engine. His
> glass box failed at the rivets at 100 hrs. Thanks for the heads up
> Dave
>
> 4. Finally, spend a bit of time getting the cut out right for the
> mixture lever. It is a bit difficult to get the cut out just right on
> the pilot side of the box, and you do not want to have to redo it.
>
> 5. Be mindful of the orientation of everything especially the
> recessed aluminum top to the FAB and the dimple direction
>
> Any other hint on this ugly job will help all
>
> Good luck on an ugly job. If you need pics or anything leave me a
> message
>
> -------- OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09 Q/B Kit -
> wiring and FWF
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232536#232536
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: F-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled |
If you are talking about the piece in the side? That gets cut out
and ends up being a piece of scrap sheet aluminum for whatever use you see
fit. There should be another piece of sheet aluminum already cut and
pre-drilled.
Jim C
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi there I've noticed that my baggage bay door lacks any holes at all
(no
side frame or door lock holes at all - just a blank sheet).
Could someone
please check their kit if you haven't already completed
Section 34 (or if
you can remember) to see if there are supposed to
be pre-drilled holes to
match drill all the other door parts to.
Many thanks in antcipation.
Regards
Patrick Pulis
#40299 VH-XPP
Adelaide, South
Australia
Stay connected to the people that matter
most with a smarter inbox.
Take a look
http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tow |
How about building a batch to sell, kits, plans?
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 1:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
I finished my tow machine and here is a picture. I have about $150 in it-I
didn't have to buy a gear head motor, the wheel is from Harbor Freight at
$9, the 2 batteries from Wal-Mart (the motor is a 24V so I have 2 speeds)
but I kept buying the 1" square tube from Lowes and it was expensive. 2
problems: the space between the wheel pant and the tow wheel is too small so
I have to extend the arms about 3" and I need to add a light so I can hook
up in the dark. I'm thinking about a seat also so I can ride it around. I
got the idea from a Kitplanes article a few years back.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: F-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled |
Thanks Jim.=0A=0ADo No Archive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A______________________________
__=0AFrom: "jim@CombsFive.Com" <jim@CombsFive.Com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronic
s.com=0ASent: Sunday, 1 March, 2009 12:49:10 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: F
-1059E Baggage Bay Door Not Pre-Driilled=0A=0AIf you are talking about the
piece in the side?- That gets cut out and ends up being a piece of scrap
sheet aluminum for whatever use you see fit.- There should be another pie
ce of sheet aluminum already cut and pre-drilled.=0A=0AJim C=0A=0A---------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------=0AHi there I've noticed that my baggage bay door lack
s any holes at all (no=0Aside frame or door lock holes at all - just a blan
k sheet).- Could someone=0Aplease check their kit if you haven't already
completed Section 34 (or if=0Ayou can remember) to see if there are suppose
d to be pre-drilled holes to=0Amatch drill all the other door parts to.=0A
=0AMany thanks in antcipation.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0A=0APatrick Pulis=0A#40299
--- VH-XPP=0AAdelaide, South Australia=0A=0A=0AStay connected to the
people that matter most with a smarter inbox.=0ATake a look http://au.docs.
==0A=0A=0A Stay connected to the people that matter most with a smar
ter inbox. Take a look http://au.docs.yahoo.com/mail/smarterinbox
Message 37
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| Subject: | wiring hole in the spar? |
It's a 3/8" hole and uses a SB375-3 snap bushing. It's discussed on page 13
-3.
Vern Smith (324 finishing=3B engine baffles)
From: dlm46007@cox.net
Subject: RV10-List: wiring hole in the spar?
In the plans where
the stall warning is addressed=2C they refer to a snap bushing hole through
the
main spar for routing the wring to the aft portion of the wing and to the
fuselage. Anyone know how big the hole is? I may have other uses for the
hole.
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