Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:08 AM - Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... (AirMike)
2. 12:12 AM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (AirMike)
3. 12:19 AM - Re: Aircraft Tow (AirMike)
4. 12:31 AM - Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace (AirMike)
5. 04:20 AM - (Jay Rowe)
6. 06:30 AM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (jayb)
7. 06:42 AM - Re: Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace (Carl Froehlich)
8. 06:47 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
9. 06:51 AM - Re: Aircraft Tow (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
10. 06:57 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Cox)
11. 07:07 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Cox)
12. 09:13 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (Bob and Karen Brown)
13. 10:14 AM - Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... (Jim Berry)
14. 11:09 AM - Re: Finish and Paint questions ?? (John Cox)
15. 11:55 AM - Filtered Air Box Failure (Dave Saylor)
16. 03:09 PM - Re: Liability Insurance (Jay Rowe)
17. 03:29 PM - Re: Liability Insurance (linn)
18. 03:29 PM - Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace (Bob Turner)
19. 04:03 PM - Re: Liability Insurance (Don McDonald)
20. 04:06 PM - Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 (orchidman)
21. 04:11 PM - Re: Liability Insurance (linn)
22. 04:17 PM - Re: Liability Insurance (Ron Walker)
23. 04:38 PM - Re: Liability Insurance (Tim Olson)
24. 05:24 PM - Re: Positioning of Lightspeed control-box and VP-200 CU (marcausman)
25. 06:37 PM - Re: Liability Insurance (Marcus Cooper)
26. 08:05 PM - Countersinking Fiberglass (Les Kearney)
27. 08:40 PM - Re: Liability Insurance (Don McDonald)
28. 09:27 PM - Re: Countersinking Fiberglass (Dave Saylor)
29. 09:33 PM - Re: Liability Insurance (Tim Olson)
30. 11:04 PM - Official RV10-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
31. 11:10 PM - Official RV10-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
32. 11:32 PM - Re: Aircraft Tow (KiloPapa)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... |
dlm46007(at)cox.net
Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:44 pm Post subject: Air box and alternate air door
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just pulled the cowl for first 100 hours inspection. Found the galvanized ring
(VA192A) of the alternate air door partially pulled from the bottom of the air
box. the rivets had pulled through the glass and the nut plate for the door pivot
was holding it there. To fix this I fabricated an aluminum ring for the inside
and match drilled the ring and galvanized ring. I cleaned the bottom with
a scotchbrite pad and grinder and put two additional layers of glass on the
bottom. I will epoxy putty the VA192A and the fabricated ring to the box and rivet
(1097s) after cure. I will then add small dabs of RTV on the rivet buck tails
on the inside to ensure that even if a rivet breaks, nothing will enter the
injection system.
[quote][b]
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232560#232560
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Oppps - Is that why my prop doesn't cycle ???????????
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232561#232561
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tow |
Does OSHA permit unenclosed batteries ???
Where is the air bag, warning labels, and the passive emergency cut off ?
Does it have NHTSA approval for Off-road use ?
Childproof safety lock
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232562#232562
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
I was also told that propagation can be poor on the center post. I was advised
by Aerotronics that a conventional antenna is the best bet. I picked up a cheap
used Cessna antenna at OSH for $30. Experimenting with the NAV antenna from
Vans in the area just inside the windscreen. It runs across the front under the
upholstery. I ran the coax up thru the center post. I was also told that VOR
reception might be poor, but want to give it a try anyway. Some have had good
luck with the Bob Archer stuff
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232563#232563
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Now being close to finished (just have to paint) I am cleaning up the
garage. I have two items that I have never used. Avery's Hand Riveting
Dimpling Tool kit and an Ameriking AK-450 ELT. Both are brand new "in
the box". Will accept any reasonable offer (plus shipping). Jay Rowe
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
Also related... I had to remove a prop flange bushing to drill holes in the case
for LSE crank sensor plate mount as my engine didn't have any bracket holes.
It sounds pretty scary, but wasn't actually too bad.
When I went to install the prop, it was discovered that several bushings were caked
with junk and needed to be rethreaded as they started coming out when the
bolts were tightened. I called Lycoming and they said it was okay to rethread
it needed.
I came across Lycoming Prop Flange Bushing Location doc SI1098G (attached) which
explains proper location and type of bushing required for different flanges.
Regards,
Jay
Cowl hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232575#232575
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/lycoming_prop_flange_bushing_location_si1098g_571.pdf
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
I plan on installing a simple dipole VOR antenna in the inside groove of the
cabin top, feed via coax running up the inside of the center post. The
antenna elements will be #18 wire (or whatever fits the groove the best).
The approximate length of the antenna follows the standard formula: Length
(ft) = 468/frequency (in MHz). So for VOR reception, the frequency range is
108.1 through 117.95 MHz. Using 110 MHz, antenna length (both sides total)
= 4.25 ft, or 51 inches, or 25.5 inches on each side of the center feed
point at the center post.
Some considerations:
1. Dipoles have the max current, min voltage point at the center. This
means the interaction of the center post is minimal. I do not expect any
noticeable performance degrade over something like a VOR antenna mounted on
top of the vertical stabilizer.
2. As the antenna elements will follow the contour of the cabin top, the
antenna is more like and inverted 'V', thus the typical nulls you would have
off the ends of a dipole are reduced (in this case 090 and 270 relative to
the fuselage axis).
3. I'll start with 27" or so of wire on each side of the center feed point,
trimming the ends after installation using an antenna tester to find the
best resonance point over the full frequency range.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (still on fuselage)
KV4U
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 3:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace
I was also told that propagation can be poor on the center post. I was
advised by Aerotronics that a conventional antenna is the best bet. I picked
up a cheap used Cessna antenna at OSH for $30. Experimenting with the NAV
antenna from Vans in the area just inside the windscreen. It runs across the
front under the upholstery. I ran the coax up thru the center post. I was
also told that VOR reception might be poor, but want to give it a try
anyway. Some have had good luck with the Bob Archer stuff
--------
OSH '08 or Bust (busted) be there in "09
Q/B Kit - wiring and FWF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232563#232563
Message 8
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Cheap it is not but it does have a reputation for being user friendly in
addition to outstanding final results. I'm going to shoot it myself so the
labor savings is being reapplied to the system and tools to apply. Finger
s crossed when I get to that point that I don't screw it up. The local sup
ply house I'm getting stuff from carries it and they are also the supplier
to many of the dealerships. They have been very helpful and I can't stress
enough that anyone seeking to do their own paint should seek sage advice f
rom their supplier. I'm lucky that there are several very good supply hous
es in the area thanks to the winter auto body adjustment season.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Your 401K is stronger than mine. It IS gorgeous paint as is JetGlow (S&W).
My painter prefers PPG Concept and my background is about 60% Imron. Eve
n the Saudi Prince might have trouble today with some colors. Short of res
orting to Stewart's I am wondering if anyone has bested Tim's Base White pe
r gallon? I can do some great pricing on Landing Gear Grey epoxy.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael
Sausen)
Sent: Sat 2/28/2009 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
ausen.net>
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
Message 9
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Check the archives, I posted info, and I think even the article, on it a year or
so back. If you have a Kitplanes subscription you can go back and download
it for free.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of richard sipp
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
How about building a batch to sell, kits, plans?
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 1:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
I finished my tow machine and here is a picture. I have about $150 in it-I
didn't have to buy a gear head motor, the wheel is from Harbor Freight at
$9, the 2 batteries from Wal-Mart (the motor is a 24V so I have 2 speeds)
but I kept buying the 1" square tube from Lowes and it was expensive. 2
problems: the space between the wheel pant and the tow wheel is too small so
I have to extend the arms about 3" and I need to add a light so I can hook
up in the dark. I'm thinking about a seat also so I can ride it around. I
got the idea from a Kitplanes article a few years back.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 10
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Your point on local supply
John Cox
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sun 3/1/2009 6:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Cheap it is not but it does have a reputation for being user friendly in
addition to outstanding final results. I'm going to shoot it myself so the
labor savings is being reapplied to the system and tools to apply. Finger
s crossed when I get to that point that I don't screw it up. The local sup
ply house I'm getting stuff from carries it and they are also the supplier
to many of the dealerships. They have been very helpful and I can't stress
enough that anyone seeking to do their own paint should seek sage advice f
rom their supplier. I'm lucky that there are several very good supply hous
es in the area thanks to the winter auto body adjustment season.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Your 401K is stronger than mine. It IS gorgeous paint as is JetGlow (S&W).
My painter prefers PPG Concept and my background is about 60% Imron. Eve
n the Saudi Prince might have trouble today with some colors. Short of res
orting to Stewart's I am wondering if anyone has bested Tim's Base White pe
r gallon? I can do some great pricing on Landing Gear Grey epoxy.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael
Sausen)
Sent: Sat 2/28/2009 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
ausen.net>
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
Message 11
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Michael, your point is a good one on local supply houses. S&W here near Au
rora sells both Jet Glow and House of Color to the DIY. They offer classes
which can empower many DIY guys to lay a great coat. They share techniques
, shortcuts and gotchas. They even have classes on flame and other airbrus
h techniques.
Don't under-estimate the value of a quality gun with an adequate flow rate.
Our EAA chapter even has the correct breathing euipment available.
John Cox
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sun 3/1/2009 6:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Cheap it is not but it does have a reputation for being user friendly in
addition to outstanding final results. I'm going to shoot it myself so the
labor savings is being reapplied to the system and tools to apply. Finger
s crossed when I get to that point that I don't screw it up. The local sup
ply house I'm getting stuff from carries it and they are also the supplier
to many of the dealerships. They have been very helpful and I can't stress
enough that anyone seeking to do their own paint should seek sage advice f
rom their supplier. I'm lucky that there are several very good supply hous
es in the area thanks to the winter auto body adjustment season.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Your 401K is stronger than mine. It IS gorgeous paint as is JetGlow (S&W).
My painter prefers PPG Concept and my background is about 60% Imron. Eve
n the Saudi Prince might have trouble today with some colors. Short of res
orting to Stewart's I am wondering if anyone has bested Tim's Base White pe
r gallon? I can do some great pricing on Landing Gear Grey epoxy.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael
Sausen)
Sent: Sat 2/28/2009 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
ausen.net>
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
Message 12
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Good points John. EAA 292 in Independence also has a Hobbyair breathing
system with extra hoses and Graco Turbine available for members. We just
don't have a place to paint. Besides Jet Glow and PPG, many of us here have
used Glasurit products. Expensive, but fantastic finishes. We've been
purchasing them from Industrial Finishes, who has stores all over the
Northwest.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 7:07 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Michael, your point is a good one on local supply houses. S&W here near
Aurora sells both Jet Glow and House of Color to the DIY. They offer classes
which can empower many DIY guys to lay a great coat. They share techniques,
shortcuts and gotchas. They even have classes on flame and other airbrush
techniques.
Don't under-estimate the value of a quality gun with an adequate flow rate.
Our EAA chapter even has the correct breathing euipment available.
John Cox
_____
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Sun 3/1/2009 6:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Cheap it is not but it does have a reputation for being user friendly in
addition to outstanding final results. I'm going to shoot it myself so the
labor savings is being reapplied to the system and tools to apply. Fingers
crossed when I get to that point that I don't screw it up. The local supply
house I'm getting stuff from carries it and they are also the supplier to
many of the dealerships. They have been very helpful and I can't stress
enough that anyone seeking to do their own paint should seek sage advice
from their supplier. I'm lucky that there are several very good supply
houses in the area thanks to the winter auto body adjustment season.
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 5:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Your 401K is stronger than mine. It IS gorgeous paint as is JetGlow (S&W).
My painter prefers PPG Concept and my background is about 60% Imron. Even
the Saudi Prince might have trouble today with some colors. Short of
resorting to Stewart's I am wondering if anyone has bested Tim's Base White
per gallon? I can do some great pricing on Landing Gear Grey epoxy.
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael
Sausen)
Sent: Sat 2/28/2009 1:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
<rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I have a House of Kolor combination in mind. :-D
Michael
get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
p://forums.matronics.com/
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box - FAB (Filtered air BITC..... |
No one seems to enjoy making the air inlet nozzle on the lower cowl. I used a different
method that was easier and resulted in a very smooth transition to the
air box.
Instead of carving a hole in the foam with a hacksaw and trying to create a smooth
contour, I reversed the process. I cut a piece of foam thick enough to fill
the gap from the back of the existing cowl inlet to the front of the air box.
Reach through the cowl inlet and press the foam into the air box, so that the
air box leaves an indentation in the aft side of the foam. While holding the
foam in this position, hot glue the forward side of the foam to the cowl inlet.
Remove the cowl, being careful not to knock the foam loose. It is now very
easy to shape the foam to the indentation on the aft side of the foam and the
existing cowl inlet on the fore side. Lay up the fiberglass on the outside of
the foam plug and you will have a perfect contour from the cowl to the air box.
No messing around with trying to lay glass inside a female form. No messing
with balloons. When the glass is cured carve out the foam, and you will have an
interior surface that needs very little cleaning up.
Jim Berry
40482
N15JB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232605#232605
Message 14
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| Subject: | Finish and Paint questions ?? |
Industrial Finishes is my point of purchase as well dating back to 1968.
For decades I was a Dupont guy. They sell lots of volume of PPG with
tremendous results from the field. I side with Michael that the House
of Kolor is amazing as is Randolph's Spectrum line. Glasurit is my
choice on German autos. Many big iron shops swear by JetGlow. Don't
forget Scott's beautiful product. The big thing is don't mix
competitive chemistry or the wrong primer with your final topcoat. Know
where you are going chemistry wise.
Sounds like what we all need is a clandestine or a approved shop on an
airfield where the hobbyist can expand their skills under tutelage.
Deems went with a national race car painter that was across from the
Phoenix Raceway.
My favorite painter said "never again" to allow another craftsman to
adulterate his effort after trying to please a discriminate customer.
That means I might be looking elsewhere as well. Lighting, ventilation
and quality airline control impact the finish topcoat paint. Dust,
hair, runs and environmental factors work against many hobbyists. It is
not a point to wander from. Michael should be commended for reminding
us of the tremendous dollar savings by DIY just like from Randy and Tim
(years ago).
All of you should be looking to a Hobbyair source as you continue the
journey.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finish and Paint questions ??
Good points John. EAA 292 in Independence also has a Hobbyair breathing
system with extra hoses and Graco Turbine available for members. We
just don't have a place to paint... Besides Jet Glow and PPG, many of
us here have used Glasurit products. Expensive, but fantastic finishes.
We've been purchasing them from Industrial Finishes, who has stores all
over the Northwest.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Filtered Air Box Failure |
While we're on the subject, two weeks ago after about 300 hours, our FAB was
found failed.
The filter had rubbed its way all the through the fiberglass on the bottom
edge. There was a split in the glass along the outside edge of the filter
in an arc of about 120 degrees.
I think the fact that the filter is slighly compressed when the airbox is
bolted closed gave it some preload against the glass, combined with enough
vibration to wear through.
We cleaned up the FAB and patched the crack, allowing the filter a tiny bit
more room inside the box so that maybe with less pressure against the glass,
it won't work against the inside as hard. But, too little pressure and it
won't seal. It's a fine line. I'll defineatly be watching it. From the
inside, you should be able to catch this happening long before it wears
through. I don't think I ever bothered to look closely.
Remember that any repairs on the FAB should be done with vinyl ester as it
is fuel proof. Epoxy may or may not be, and fuel does tend to end up in the
FAB from time to time.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
N921AC 335 hours
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
Linn: Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance costs both
for-in motion and not-in-motion. Also would you know what the cost
would be for hull replacement for not-in-motion? My thoughts are that I
need liability coverage for all possibilities but only need hull
coverage if it gets whacked by someone or something while sitting on a
ramp, or if the hanger burns or collapses. Any mild to moderate damage
while in motion I can probably fix, and I probably won't be able to care
if there is major damage. Thanks, Jay Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: linn
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease requirements.
I dropped it from in-motion this year. No hull for many years.
Linn
partner14 wrote:
<building_partner@yahoo.com>
Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra
anything.
Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
02/27/09 13:27:00
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
For my AA-1B ..... been with the company for a whole long time. The
AA-1B is apart for paint .... been that way for 6 years now, which made
the change to not-in motion.
Jay Rowe wrote:
> Linn: Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance costs both
> for-in motion
AA-1B was 250
> and not-in-motion.
115
> Also would you know what the cost would be for hull replacement for
> not-in-motion?
I don't. I surmise that it's the same as in-motion since a loss is a
loss. I've never had hull insurance with the exception of the Pitts the
first year. I guess all the 'experts' scared me!
Linn
> My thoughts are that I need liability coverage for all possibilities
> but only need hull coverage if it gets whacked by someone or something
> while sitting on a ramp, or if the hanger burns or collapses. Any
> mild to moderate damage while in motion I can probably fix, and I
> probably won't be able to care if there is major damage. Thanks, Jay
> Rowe
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* linn <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
>
> I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease
> requirements. I dropped it from in-motion this year. No hull for
> many years.
> Linn
>
> partner14 wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra anything.
>> Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
>> Thanks guys.
>>
>> Don McDonald
>>
>> --------
>> Don A. McDonald
>> 40636
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
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>
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>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting windscreen-antenna on center cabin brace |
"2. As the antenna elements will follow the contour of the cabin top, the
antenna is more like and inverted 'V', thus the typical nulls you would have
off the ends of a dipole are reduced (in this case 090 and 270 relative to
the fuselage axis). "
I think your logic is off a little here. The 'end on' sensitivity of such an antenna
is only to vertical polarization. VOR and Localizer signals are horizontally
polarized. Expect trouble when the station is off to the side.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232654#232654
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
Ok, I'll bite,- what the hell is AA-1B.- Do most companies sell insuran
ce for liability only?- Recommendations?
--- On Sun, 3/1/09, linn <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
From: linn <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
For my AA-1B ..... been with the company for a whole long time.- The AA-1
B is apart for paint .... been that way for 6 years now, which made the cha
nge to not-in motion.
Jay Rowe wrote:
Linn:- Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance costs both for
-in motionAA-1B was 250
and not-in-motion.115
- Also would you know what the cost would be for hull-replacement for n
ot-in-motion?I don't.- I surmise that it's the same as in-motion since a
loss is a loss.- I've never had hull insurance with the exception of the
Pitts the first year.- I guess all the 'experts' scared me!
Linn
- My thoughts are that I need liability coverage for all possibilities bu
t only need hull coverage if it gets whacked by someone or something while
sitting on a ramp, or if the hanger burns or collapses.- Any mild to mode
rate damage while in motion I can probably fix, and I probably won't be abl
e to care if there is major damage.- Thanks,- Jay Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: linn
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease requirements.- I
dropped it from in-motion this year.- No hull for many years.
Linn
partner14 wrote:
Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra anything.
Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
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Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Installing Hartzell prop on IO540 |
jayb wrote:
> Also related... I had to remove a prop flange bushing to drill holes in the case
for LSE crank sensor plate mount as my engine didn't have any bracket holes.
It sounds pretty scary, but wasn't actually too bad.
I got a couple 1.5" bolts and center drilled 2 of them I used them as a centering
guide for the tap drill. Once drilled, remove the bold and tap the hole with
a bottoming tap. I was able to get 5 holes using this method. Have not started
the engine yet but I believe I got a really good fit without having to
remove any bushings.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Engine, Fiberglass - SB
(N2GB registered)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232665#232665
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
Don McDonald wrote:
> Ok, I'll bite, what the hell is AA-1B. Do most companies sell
> insurance for liability only? Recommendations?
>
My '74 AA-1B is a Grumman American .... low wing, sliding canopy with
sports-car maneuverability. Most fun airplane I've ever flown ..... for
it's category. My Pitts is still #1 for my aerobatic fix.
I believe almost all underwriters carry liability only. My agent is
Aircraft & Marine Insurance 800 466-4944. They've been really good to
me over the years.
Linn
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
An AA-1B is a 2 seat certificated aircraft made by Grumman (American
Aviation). Basically a 2 seat Tiger/Cheetah.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Don McDonald
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 6:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
Ok, I'll bite, what the hell is AA-1B. Do most companies sell
insurance for liability only? Recommendations?
--- On Sun, 3/1/09, linn <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net> wrote:
From: linn <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 3:30 PM
For my AA-1B ..... been with the company for a whole long
time. The AA-1B is apart for paint .... been that way for 6 years now,
which made the change to not-in motion.
Jay Rowe wrote:
Linn: Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance
costs both for-in motion
AA-1B was 250
and not-in-motion.
115
Also would you know what the cost would be for hull
replacement for not-in-motion?
I don't. I surmise that it's the same as in-motion since a
loss is a loss. I've never had hull insurance with the exception of the
Pitts the first year. I guess all the 'experts' scared me!
Linn
My thoughts are that I need liability coverage for all
possibilities but only need hull coverage if it gets whacked by someone
or something while sitting on a ramp, or if the hanger burns or
collapses. Any mild to moderate damage while in motion I can probably
fix, and I probably won't be able to care if there is major damage.
Thanks, Jay Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: linn
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease
requirements. I dropped it from in-motion this year. No hull for many
years.
Linn
partner14 wrote:
<building_partner@yahoo.com>
Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra
anything.
Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
Thanks guys.
Don McDonald
--------
Don A. McDonald
40636
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232451#232451
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
Jay,
My First years quote was $3441 for total coverage, both in
and not in motion...total coverage.
I got a quote of $2,083 for coverage that was just
for ground and taxi operations....i.e. once you take
the runway, no hull coverage at all.
I got a quote of $1,724 for "not in motion" coverage...only
covers the hull when you're parked with the engine off.
$782 liability only....no hull coverage whatsoever.
So that gives you an idea of the breakdown.
NOW, the tricky question is....if you have almost no time
in an RV-10, which time period do you think you're causing
yourself the BIGGEST financial risk if you fly without insurance?
My first year I started to sway towards getting "Not in Motion",
but then hey, it's "only" ~$150 to get taxi coverage. And after
all, what if this new plane you built develops brake problems.
There is no steerable nosewheel, so for a newbie pilot it
might not be that far fetched to have a taxi incident early
in your RV-10 life. So now I was happy to spend $2,083.
Well, then I thought about it again...if I were to consider
when I may be most likely to have problems, it would for
SURE be during the flyoff period. Add to that the fact that
the first 100 hours or so you're finally learning and understanding
your plane. So, at that point it's "only" ~$1350 to upgrade
for at least that first year, to total coverage. I wasn't
willing to risk my entire financial future, the loss of an
expensive plane, and risk starting at step 1 all over again
for $1350 approx....so I went with full coverage. Consider
that if I had to start with Step 1, to me that is "Save money
for 5 years or so, so I can even start the kit".
I would think it wise to just pony up the dollars for the first
100 hours or so of flight time. Now today, with 445+ hours
on the plane, I'm reasonably confident that my risk level isn't
nearly what it used to be. So I actually consider the
"not in flight" coverage to save that $1200-1400/yr. The catch
is, I'm still not fully financially restored from the build,
and the loss of the plane would still devistate me financially
and psychologically. So I just can't get myself to not spend
that extra bit. Some day I may though, because you're right,
any minor damage you can probably repair, even if it means
building a whole pair of wings.
We have had more than just the 3 fatals so far though...there
are some not-in-motion losses, and some other "in-flight"
losses, and landing incidents. So for many, some amount of
coverage may be a real good idea. Sadly, it's those with the
fewest PIC hours that will not only pay the highest rates, but
will also NEED the insurance the most.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jay Rowe wrote:
> Linn: Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance costs both
> for-in motion and not-in-motion. Also would you know what the cost
> would be for hull replacement for not-in-motion? My thoughts are that I
> need liability coverage for all possibilities but only need hull
> coverage if it gets whacked by someone or something while sitting on a
> ramp, or if the hanger burns or collapses. Any mild to moderate damage
> while in motion I can probably fix, and I probably won't be able to care
> if there is major damage. Thanks, Jay Rowe
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* linn <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
>
> I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease
> requirements. I dropped it from in-motion this year. No hull for
> many years.
> Linn
>
> partner14 wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra anything.
>> Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
>> Thanks guys.
>>
>> Don McDonald
>>
>> --------
>> Don A. McDonald
>> 40636
>>
>>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Positioning of Lightspeed control-box and VP-200 CU |
We don't recommend mounting the CU on the firewall. There are several options to
mount it around the intermediate bulkhead bw the firewall and the panel.
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=232678#232678
Message 25
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| Subject: | Liability Insurance |
I'll pile on to Tim's answer. I had liability only on my first airplane (a
Q-2 with only about $8,000 invested), opted for the "not in motion" for my
Skybolt but still under $25K invested. My RV-6 had more in it so I went
with the full insurance. Best money I ever spent when the engine quit due
to a poor overhaul job. I have a whole lot more in the RV-10 and frankly
just couldn't stomach the thought of losing it all in event something
happened. So while the insurance certainly isn't cheap, fortunately it's
better as you get more experience, it absolutely is worth it for what we
have in these machines. Just my opinion of course, but having had to
exercise this once before I can assure you it was a great relief.
Marcus
405 hrs and counting.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
Jay,
My First years quote was $3441 for total coverage, both in
and not in motion...total coverage.
I got a quote of $2,083 for coverage that was just
for ground and taxi operations....i.e. once you take
the runway, no hull coverage at all.
I got a quote of $1,724 for "not in motion" coverage...only
covers the hull when you're parked with the engine off.
$782 liability only....no hull coverage whatsoever.
So that gives you an idea of the breakdown.
NOW, the tricky question is....if you have almost no time
in an RV-10, which time period do you think you're causing
yourself the BIGGEST financial risk if you fly without insurance?
My first year I started to sway towards getting "Not in Motion",
but then hey, it's "only" ~$150 to get taxi coverage. And after
all, what if this new plane you built develops brake problems.
There is no steerable nosewheel, so for a newbie pilot it
might not be that far fetched to have a taxi incident early
in your RV-10 life. So now I was happy to spend $2,083.
Well, then I thought about it again...if I were to consider
when I may be most likely to have problems, it would for
SURE be during the flyoff period. Add to that the fact that
the first 100 hours or so you're finally learning and understanding
your plane. So, at that point it's "only" ~$1350 to upgrade
for at least that first year, to total coverage. I wasn't
willing to risk my entire financial future, the loss of an
expensive plane, and risk starting at step 1 all over again
for $1350 approx....so I went with full coverage. Consider
that if I had to start with Step 1, to me that is "Save money
for 5 years or so, so I can even start the kit".
I would think it wise to just pony up the dollars for the first
100 hours or so of flight time. Now today, with 445+ hours
on the plane, I'm reasonably confident that my risk level isn't
nearly what it used to be. So I actually consider the
"not in flight" coverage to save that $1200-1400/yr. The catch
is, I'm still not fully financially restored from the build,
and the loss of the plane would still devistate me financially
and psychologically. So I just can't get myself to not spend
that extra bit. Some day I may though, because you're right,
any minor damage you can probably repair, even if it means
building a whole pair of wings.
We have had more than just the 3 fatals so far though...there
are some not-in-motion losses, and some other "in-flight"
losses, and landing incidents. So for many, some amount of
coverage may be a real good idea. Sadly, it's those with the
fewest PIC hours that will not only pay the highest rates, but
will also NEED the insurance the most.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jay Rowe wrote:
> Linn: Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance costs both
> for-in motion and not-in-motion. Also would you know what the cost
> would be for hull replacement for not-in-motion? My thoughts are that I
> need liability coverage for all possibilities but only need hull
> coverage if it gets whacked by someone or something while sitting on a
> ramp, or if the hanger burns or collapses. Any mild to moderate damage
> while in motion I can probably fix, and I probably won't be able to care
> if there is major damage. Thanks, Jay Rowe
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* linn <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
>
> I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease
> requirements. I dropped it from in-motion this year. No hull for
> many years.
> Linn
>
> partner14 wrote:
<building_partner@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no extra
anything.
>> Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or forever?
>> Thanks guys.
>>
>> Don McDonald
>>
>> --------
>> Don A. McDonald
>> 40636
>>
>>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Countersinking Fiberglass |
Hi
After a bit of a force break from building, I managed to put a few hours in
today. I have a Tony Sustare center console that I am fitting and am
wondering about countersinking holes in fibreglass.
The center console fits over the tunnel cover which is held in place with
flush head screws. I am wondering as to the best way to counter sink the
screws. My Cherokee has countersunk washers to hold some of the fibreglass
tail cone etc in place. Should I be using something similar on the
fibreglass console?
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643 - lots of assembly required
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
Tim,-I have 2 things to say;- 1, you must type really fast.... because
you take no shortcuts and relay exactly what you think and feel.....- and
2, thank you for doing exactly that.
Unfortunately, the times/insurance situation has changed quite a bit since
the time you were the low time pilot.- Like I said before, they won't eve
n let me fly the plane until I have some 20 hours of dual, including instru
ment time, then have a test pilot fly off the 40 hours, and for that privil
idge they want $6,000 a year.- So I will try to get some extra time in th
e 3 or 4 10's in the area.... but then I will almost be forced to get eithe
r liability only or liability with ground and taxi.- Certainly if I had t
he quote you had from the beginning, I to would jump on it.- Things are a
little different for me, I should just about have the plane paid off prior
to the first flight... which I estimate should be the end of March or begi
nning of April.
Again, I look forward to meeting you, and thanks so much for supplying so m
uch info to us newbees.
Don McDonald
#40636
Almost flying- -- Awaiting FAA paperwork
--- On Sun, 3/1/09, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
Jay,
My First years quote was $3441 for total coverage, both in
and not in motion...total coverage.
I got a quote of $2,083 for coverage that was just
for ground and taxi operations....i.e. once you take
the runway, no hull coverage at all.
I got a quote of $1,724 for "not in motion" coverage...only
covers the hull when you're parked with the engine off.
$782 liability only....no hull coverage whatsoever.
So that gives you an idea of the breakdown.
NOW, the tricky question is....if you have almost no time
in an RV-10, which time period do you think you're causing
yourself the BIGGEST financial risk if you fly without insurance?
My first year I started to sway towards getting "Not in Motion",
but then hey, it's "only" ~$150 to get taxi coverage.- And after
all, what if this new plane you built develops brake problems.
There is no steerable nosewheel, so for a newbie pilot it
might not be that far fetched to have a taxi incident early
in your RV-10 life.---So now I was happy to spend $2,083.
Well, then I thought about it again...if I were to consider
when I may be most likely to have problems, it would for
SURE be during the flyoff period.- Add to that the fact that
the first 100 hours or so you're finally learning and understanding
your plane.- So, at that point it's "only" ~$1350 to upgrade
for at least that first year, to total coverage.- I wasn't
willing to risk my entire financial future, the loss of an
expensive plane, and risk starting at step 1 all over again
for $1350 approx....so I went with full coverage.- Consider
that if I had to start with Step 1, to me that is "Save money
for 5 years or so, so I can even start the kit".
I would think it wise to just pony up the dollars for the first
100 hours or so of flight time.- Now today, with 445+ hours
on the plane, I'm reasonably confident that my risk level isn't
nearly what it used to be.- So I actually consider the
"not in flight" coverage to save that $1200-1400/yr.- The catch
is, I'm still not fully financially restored from the build,
and the loss of the plane would still devistate me financially
and psychologically.- So I just can't get myself to not spend
that extra bit.- Some day I may though, because you're right,
any minor damage you can probably repair, even if it means
building a whole pair of wings.
We have had more than just the 3 fatals so far though...there
are some not-in-motion losses, and some other "in-flight"
losses, and landing incidents.- So for many, some amount of
coverage may be a real good idea.- Sadly, it's those with the
fewest PIC hours that will not only pay the highest rates, but
will also NEED the insurance the most.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Jay Rowe wrote:
> Linn:- Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance costs both f
or-in motion and not-in-motion.- Also would you know what the cost would
be for hull replacement for not-in-motion?- My thoughts are that I need l
iability coverage for all possibilities but only need hull coverage if it g
ets whacked by someone or something while sitting on a ramp, or if the hang
er burns or collapses.- Any mild to moderate damage while in motion I can
probably fix, and I probably won't be able to care if there is major damag
e.- Thanks,- Jay Rowe
>
>- -------- Original Message -----
>- ---*From:* linn <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>- ---*To:* rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>- ---*Sent:* Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
>- ---*Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
>
>- ---I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease
>- ---requirements.- I dropped it from in-motion this year.- No
hull for
>- ---many years.
>- ---Linn
>
>- ---partner14 wrote:
er@yahoo.com>
>>
>>- ---Has anyone just got liability insurance?- No hull value, n
o extra anything.- - - Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or fo
rever?
>>- ---Thanks guys.
>>
>>- ---Don McDonald
>>
>>- -----------
>>- ---Don A. McDonald
>>- ---40636
>>
>>
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 28
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| Subject: | Countersinking Fiberglass |
Les,
You will want to stay with flush scews there. It's a tight fit as-is and
protruding screws will just make it worse.
If the glass is thick enough you can countersink it. Metal countersink
cutters get dull really fast on fiberglass, but these work great:
http://www.averytools.com/c-104-permagrit-countersinks.aspx
If the material is too thin to countersink without enlarging the hole, then
countersunk washers will help. Countersink far enough that the head of the
screw is flush, then use the washer to essentially enlarge the head of the
screw. That'll help spread out the load and keep the fiberglass in good
shape for a long time.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Countersinking Fiberglass
Hi
After a bit of a force break from building, I managed to put a few hours in
today. I have a Tony Sustare center console that I am fitting and am
wondering about countersinking holes in fibreglass.
The center console fits over the tunnel cover which is held in place with
flush head screws. I am wondering as to the best way to counter sink the
screws. My Cherokee has countersunk washers to hold some of the fibreglass
tail cone etc in place. Should I be using something similar on the
fibreglass console?
Inquiring minds need to know...
Les Kearney
#40643 - lots of assembly required
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Liability Insurance |
Yeah, I am lucky that I type like a caffeine addicted secretary, because
it would take me forever to reply otherwise. I do like to give
replies though that don't leave things too vague, so that's why I
take the extra words.
When I got my first quotes, they quoted 5 hrs Dual / 10 hrs solo.
I was covered for my first flight after only the 5 hours dual, but
they had an additional 10% deductible or something like that
until I got my 10 solo hours in. I had my instrument rating
at the time, so I don't know what the situation would have been
if I had been VFR-only. I also had made it out of the "low-time"
category by then....not having thousands, but at least a few hundred
hours. All that helps. I know the requirements are a little more
stringent now, which I'm betting are not only due to seeing a few
losses...(I know at least 1 RV-10 was fully paid out in insurance
after the loss), but also perhaps due to a real rash in accidents
in the Lancairs, with greater, but not all unsimilar performance.
Heck, even the Cirrus record as of late may be partly to blame for
our ills. Whatever the case though, the insurance folks put those
clauses in there because they have experience to show where the
risk is...and it's important not to lose too much sight of that,
despite the pains it causes us. I will state for a fact that
when I was a 40-80 hr pilot I had many more "situations" that I'm
just glad never amounted to an incident. It was during my instrument
training, in fact, that I suddenly realized that my basic flying
skills were taking a leap, because I was so busy flying the gauges
that I didn't have TIME be lazy and fly with less precision.
I do feel for you though on the insurance. I have mixed
feelings, in that $6000 and the other requirements they put
on you seem like overkill at times. But then I am reminded
of my earlier time in aircraft in my <100 or <150 hour
experience range and man, I am probably lucky I didn't have
an RV-10 at the time. I probably would have ADVANCED my skills
faster if I would have had easy access to such a plane
back then, but I really would hate to make some of the mistakes
I made back then, if I were making them in my RV-10. So it's
a mixed bag. It is really one of the reasons I try to talk
people into just buying a SPAM can for learning to fly , or for
a first airplane, and then put in some initial time. It isn't
as fun, but they are much less to lose, and the insurance is far
easier to get. My father learned to fly in our plane that we bought
together, and back then, he was the reason for our higher rates,
since he was a student, and then later just low-time, while
not too long after buying it I got my IFR ticket. Despite having
2 pilots and his low time, our insurance started at maybe $1100,
and ended up in the $800's. Full coverage. We both put 250 hours
in that plane before selling it, so we walked away selling it
for more than we bought it....with the major expense being fuel
and annuals.
Photo
http://www.5000feet.com/forsale/sundowner/pics/midsize/N2251L0012.jpg
Anyway, even if you have to pay $6,000 for the first year, considering
the low time and lack of instrument rating, in perspective you're
maybe only paying $2,000 more than someone with 200 hours would. That
money is less than the cost of the FUEL you'll burn just doing the
private pilot course. Also, fuel is only about 1/3 the cost of the
overall operation of the plane, so in perspective it's really not
that much money. The perspective is important. Like what's a $3000
Nav/Com when you're building a $150,000 plane. Also, you'll find
you progress best in skill if you can fly at least 100hrs/yr for your
first couple of years. If you do that, and amortize the $2000
additional insurance fee out over a year, you're only talking $20/hr.
Now let me ask you this...if you were renting a plane at the airport
for instruction, and someone told you that you could get your PPSEL
in an RV-10 for only $20/hr extra....I think many people would jump
all over that. And I bet you a cold one that after your first 100
hours of time are put in, and you have a Private Pilot Certificate,
you'll be able to find someone who will cover you for less than
$6,000 the 2nd year. It may not be $3500, but it will beat $6,00.
The key is getting the time and ratings under your belt that put you
in a better statistical risk category.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Don McDonald wrote:
> Tim, I have 2 things to say; 1, you must type really fast.... because
> you take no shortcuts and relay exactly what you think and feel.....
> and 2, thank you for doing exactly that.
> Unfortunately, the times/insurance situation has changed quite a bit
> since the time you were the low time pilot. Like I said before, they
> won't even let me fly the plane until I have some 20 hours of dual,
> including instrument time, then have a test pilot fly off the 40 hours,
> and for that privilidge they want $6,000 a year. So I will try to get
> some extra time in the 3 or 4 10's in the area.... but then I will
> almost be forced to get either liability only or liability with ground
> and taxi. Certainly if I had the quote you had from the beginning, I to
> would jump on it. Things are a little different for me, I should just
> about have the plane paid off prior to the first flight... which I
> estimate should be the end of March or beginning of April.
> Again, I look forward to meeting you, and thanks so much for supplying
> so much info to us newbees.
> Don McDonald
> #40636
> Almost flying - Awaiting FAA paperwork
>
> --- On *Sun, 3/1/09, Tim Olson /<Tim@MyRV10.com>/* wrote:
>
>
> From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 4:36 PM
>
> <http://us.mc01g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=Tim@myrv10.com>>
>
> Jay,
>
> My First years quote was $3441 for total coverage, both in
> and not in motion...total coverage.
>
> I got a quote of $2,083 for coverage that was just
> for ground and taxi operations....i.e. once you take
> the runway, no hull coverage at all.
>
> I got a quote of $1,724 for "not in motion" coverage...only
> covers the hull when you're parked with the engine off.
>
> $782 liability only....no hull coverage whatsoever.
>
> So that gives you an idea of the breakdown.
>
> NOW, the tricky question is....if you have almost no time
> in an RV-10, which time period do you think you're causing
> yourself the BIGGEST financial risk if you fly without insurance?
> My first year I started to sway towards getting "Not in Motion",
> but then hey, it's "only" ~$150 to get taxi coverage. And after
> all, what if this new plane you built develops brake problems.
> There is no steerable nosewheel, so for a newbie pilot it
> might not be that far fetched to have a taxi incident early
> in your RV-10 life. So now I was happy to spend $2,083.
> Well, then I thought about it again...if I were to consider
> when I may be most likely to have problems, it would for
> SURE be during the flyoff period. Add to that the fact that
> the first 100 hours or so you're finally learning and understanding
> your plane. So, at that point it's "only" ~$1350 to upgrade
> for at least that first year, to total coverage. I wasn't
> willing to risk my entire financial future, the loss of an
> expensive plane, and risk starting at step 1 all over again
> for $1350 approx....so I went with full coverage. Consider
> that if I had to start with Step 1, to me that is "Save money
> for 5 years or so, so I can even start the kit".
>
> I would think it wise to just pony up the dollars for the first
> 100 hours or so of flight time. Now today, with 445+ hours
> on the plane, I'm reasonably confident that my risk level isn't
> nearly what it used to be. So I actually consider the
> "not in flight" coverage to save that $1200-1400/yr. The catch
> is, I'm still not fully financially restored from the build,
> and the loss of the plane would still devistate me financially
> and psychologically. So I just can't get myself to not spend
> that extra bit. Some day I may though, because you're right,
> any minor damage you can probably repair, even if it means
> building a whole pair of wings.
>
> We have had more than just the 3 fatals so far though...there
> are some not-in-motion losses, and some other "in-flight"
> losses, and landing incidents. So for many, some amount of
> coverage may be a real good idea. Sadly, it's those with the
> fewest PIC hours that will not only pay the highest rates, but
> will also NEED the insurance the most.
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
> do not archive
>
>
> Jay Rowe wrote:
> > Linn: Give us a ballpark of what liability only insurance costs
> both for-in motion and not-in-motion. Also would you know what the
> cost would be for hull replacement for not-in-motion? My thoughts
> are that I need liability coverage for all possibilities but only
> need hull coverage if it gets whacked by someone or something while
> sitting on a ramp, or if the hanger burns or collapses. Any mild to
> moderate damage while in motion I can probably fix, and I probably
> won't be able to care if there is major damage. Thanks, Jay Rowe
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > *From:* linn <mailto:pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
> <http://us.mc01g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>>
> > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> <http://us.mc01g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv10-list@matronics.com>
> <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com
> <http://us.mc01g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv10-list@matronics.com>>
> > *Sent:* Saturday, February 28, 2009 1:07 PM
> > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Liability Insurance
> >
> > I have not-in-motion liability to meet the hangar lease
> > requirements. I dropped it from in-motion this year. No
> hull for
> > many years.
> > Linn
> >
> > partner14 wrote:
> <building_partner@yahoo.com
> <http://us.mc01g.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=building_partner@yahoo.com>>
> >>
> >> Has anyone just got liability insurance? No hull value, no
> extra anything. Either for the first flight, the flyoff, or
> forever?
> >> Thanks guys.
> >>
> >> Don McDonald
> >>
> >> --------
> >> Don A. McDonald
> >> 40636http:http://forums.matronics.com/"
> target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 30
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| Subject: | Official RV10-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the RV10-List Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) below. The
complete RV10-List FAQ including the Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
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Thank you,
Matt Dralle
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Prior to public availability of the files and photos, each will be scanned
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Following the availability of the new Photoshare, an email message will be
sent to the Email Lists enumerated in 1) above indicating that the new
Share is available and what the direct URL to it is.
For a current list of available Photoshares, have a look at the Main
Index Page:
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RV10-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV10-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
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terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
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- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
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agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
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- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
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will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
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is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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| Subject: | Official RV10-List Usage Guidelines |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the RV10-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV10-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV10-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RV10-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV10-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV10-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV10-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV10-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
Message 32
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| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tow |
Link: http://www.kitplanes.com/issues/pdfs/0405-5354.pdf
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 6:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
> <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Check the archives, I posted info, and I think even the article, on it a
> year or so back. If you have a Kitplanes subscription you can go back and
> download it for free.
>
> Michael
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 1:34 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Tow
>
>
> I finished my tow machine and here is a picture. I have about $150 in it-I
> didn't have to buy a gear head motor, the wheel is from Harbor Freight at
> $9, the 2 batteries from Wal-Mart (the motor is a 24V so I have 2 speeds)
> but I kept buying the 1" square tube from Lowes and it was expensive. 2
> problems: the space between the wheel pant and the tow wheel is too small
> so
> I have to extend the arms about 3" and I need to add a light so I can hook
> up in the dark. I'm thinking about a seat also so I can ride it around. I
> got the idea from a Kitplanes article a few years back.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
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