Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:49 AM - Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin (Larry Rosen)
2. 09:07 AM - Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin (Deems Davis)
3. 09:26 AM - Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin (pascal)
4. 09:34 AM - Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin (Larry Rosen)
5. 03:52 PM - Re: Door Closed switches (Roger Standley)
6. 04:12 PM - Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin (Deems Davis)
7. 05:50 PM - Re: Door Closed switches (Jesse Saint)
8. 08:38 PM - Re: Door Closed switches (Roger Standley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin |
I have finally attached the Tailcone Forward Top Skin (F-1074) and now I
need to fill in the gap between the cabin top the aluminum skin. This
is the method I was going to use to fill in the gap. I am also going to
use the same method to fill the side of the cabin top the the fuselage
skin. I am looking for comments.
First I will scuff the fiberglass and aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper.
Thoroughly clean the surfaces with acetone.
Apply a blend of west epoxy, cabosil and flox to fill in the low spots.
I will keep this fill about 1/8" low
Allow the epoxy mix to set up, but while still tacky then apply 2 strips
of fiberglass cloth cut on a 45.
Allow to cure over night.
Apply superfil to fair and fill any low spots
Sand and refill until smooth and fair.
Larry Rosen
#356
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin |
Larry, That's exactly what I did, EXCEPT I did NOT apply the fiberglass
strips to these joints (I DID apply to all of the window joints). My
opinion is that I've yet to hear/see/witness any cracking along the pop
riveted seams, and the application of the fiberglass cloth is only to
help hide/minimize this potential. It also adds to the buildup and makes
fairing/blending a little more difficult. with the windows, your
basically blending /fairing only in one direction - away from the window.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....
http://deemsrv10.com/
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> I have finally attached the Tailcone Forward Top Skin (F-1074) and now
> I need to fill in the gap between the cabin top the aluminum skin.
> This is the method I was going to use to fill in the gap. I am also
> going to use the same method to fill the side of the cabin top the the
> fuselage skin. I am looking for comments.
>
> First I will scuff the fiberglass and aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper.
> Thoroughly clean the surfaces with acetone.
> Apply a blend of west epoxy, cabosil and flox to fill in the low
> spots. I will keep this fill about 1/8" low
> Allow the epoxy mix to set up, but while still tacky then apply 2
> strips of fiberglass cloth cut on a 45.
> Allow to cure over night.
> Apply superfil to fair and fill any low spots
> Sand and refill until smooth and fair.
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin |
Looks good, I did the same thing except skipped the cloth as I have my ideas
of cloth on aluminum causing cracks in the paint later.
I just filled with epoxy and flox/cabosil, sanded and final coat epoxy
cabosil, probably no different than the cloth in regards to cracking the
paint later but that's what I did.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Larry Rosen" <N205EN@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 7:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin
>
> I have finally attached the Tailcone Forward Top Skin (F-1074) and now I
> need to fill in the gap between the cabin top the aluminum skin. This is
> the method I was going to use to fill in the gap. I am also going to use
> the same method to fill the side of the cabin top the the fuselage skin.
> I am looking for comments.
>
> First I will scuff the fiberglass and aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper.
> Thoroughly clean the surfaces with acetone.
> Apply a blend of west epoxy, cabosil and flox to fill in the low spots. I
> will keep this fill about 1/8" low
> Allow the epoxy mix to set up, but while still tacky then apply 2 strips
> of fiberglass cloth cut on a 45.
> Allow to cure over night.
> Apply superfil to fair and fill any low spots
> Sand and refill until smooth and fair.
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin |
Deems,
Did you cover up both rivet lines (the pop rivets to the cabin top and
the solid rivets to the bulk head?
Larry
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Larry, That's exactly what I did, EXCEPT I did NOT apply the
> fiberglass strips to these joints (I DID apply to all of the window
> joints). My opinion is that I've yet to hear/see/witness any cracking
> along the pop riveted seams, and the application of the fiberglass
> cloth is only to help hide/minimize this potential. It also adds to
> the buildup and makes fairing/blending a little more difficult. with
> the windows, your basically blending /fairing only in one direction -
> away from the window.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> Larry Rosen wrote:
>>
>> I have finally attached the Tailcone Forward Top Skin (F-1074) and
>> now I need to fill in the gap between the cabin top the aluminum
>> skin. This is the method I was going to use to fill in the gap. I
>> am also going to use the same method to fill the side of the cabin
>> top the the fuselage skin. I am looking for comments.
>>
>> First I will scuff the fiberglass and aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper.
>> Thoroughly clean the surfaces with acetone.
>> Apply a blend of west epoxy, cabosil and flox to fill in the low
>> spots. I will keep this fill about 1/8" low
>> Allow the epoxy mix to set up, but while still tacky then apply 2
>> strips of fiberglass cloth cut on a 45.
>> Allow to cure over night.
>> Apply superfil to fair and fill any low spots
>> Sand and refill until smooth and fair.
>>
>> Larry Rosen
>> #356
>>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Door Closed switches |
Jesse,
Do you think the leather strap would hold the door shut even if the pins
were not engaged?
I don't imagine you have tested it, but sure would like to know.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 4:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches
FWIW, I have had a door open on me in flight because my knee hit
handle and the lock pin was not completely nested in the slot at the
base of the handle. I have since installed a leather strap to the main
gear base that loops around the door handle. The door pins are not
enough in themselves (IHMO), and the lights don't make any difference in
the situation that happened to me. The door pins had been in place and
fully engaged.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Apr 13, 2009, at 11:40 PM, David McNeill wrote:
yes, mechanical things fail. After checking with one of the first to
lose a door I decided not to install the light system. He said that the
first time he lost the door there was no system; but the second time he
lost the door the system was installed and he missed it. I just check
the pins physically at engine start and before takeoff. Of course I can
reach the pins and feel them in place; some have coverings there that
make that sort of check difficult.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matron
ics.com>
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-serve
r@matronics.com>] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:05 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches
Ron you could also just check the door is shut
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron<mailto:ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches
Well here=92s another one for the books. My airpath compass is
located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs on
the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading aligned.
N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W between the
GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed the error
was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the hardstand.
The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably
less than 12=94 from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong
little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the
windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak
VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the
interference zone of the door magnet.
Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a
microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any
designs/installation instructions??
Cheers,
Ron
-187
Finalising ADs and paperwork.
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Top to Tailcone Forward Top Skin |
Yes
Deems
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> Deems,
> Did you cover up both rivet lines (the pop rivets to the cabin top and
> the solid rivets to the bulk head?
>
> Larry
>
> Deems Davis wrote:
>>
>> Larry, That's exactly what I did, EXCEPT I did NOT apply the
>> fiberglass strips to these joints (I DID apply to all of the window
>> joints). My opinion is that I've yet to hear/see/witness any
>> cracking along the pop riveted seams, and the application of the
>> fiberglass cloth is only to help hide/minimize this potential. It
>> also adds to the buildup and makes fairing/blending a little more
>> difficult. with the windows, your basically blending /fairing only
>> in one direction - away from the window.
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> 'Its all done....
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> Larry Rosen wrote:
>>>
>>> I have finally attached the Tailcone Forward Top Skin (F-1074) and
>>> now I need to fill in the gap between the cabin top the aluminum
>>> skin. This is the method I was going to use to fill in the gap. I
>>> am also going to use the same method to fill the side of the cabin
>>> top the the fuselage skin. I am looking for comments.
>>>
>>> First I will scuff the fiberglass and aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper.
>>> Thoroughly clean the surfaces with acetone.
>>> Apply a blend of west epoxy, cabosil and flox to fill in the low
>>> spots. I will keep this fill about 1/8" low
>>> Allow the epoxy mix to set up, but while still tacky then apply 2
>>> strips of fiberglass cloth cut on a 45.
>>> Allow to cure over night.
>>> Apply superfil to fair and fill any low spots
>>> Sand and refill until smooth and fair.
>>>
>>> Larry Rosen
>>> #356
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Door Closed switches |
Yes, I believe that it will. I have been informed by another RV-10
owner who has a set of these straps that it was tested (whether
intentionally or otherwise I do not know) and did hold the door. I am
not about to try it myself, but I have closed the door in flight
before and the force, especially when just open a couple of inches,
did not appear to be nearly enough to break these straps. Straps made
out of strong webbing would likely work as well or better, but I like
that the leather stretches a little bit so it can be a little tight
around the handle when in place. No matter how the doors are
installed and how many steps are taken to ensure they are closed well,
I still highly recommend a backup safety like this. It gives me great
peace of mind when flying, for what it's worth. You only have to have
a door come open in flight one time, for whatever reason, before
really feeling the need (IMHO) for something like this.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Apr 15, 2009, at 6:49 PM, Roger Standley wrote:
> Jesse,
>
> Do you think the leather strap would hold the door shut even if the
> pins were not engaged?
> I don't imagine you have tested it, but sure would like to know.
>
> Roger
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jesse Saint
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 4:37 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches
>
> FWIW, I have had a door open on me in flight because my knee hit
> handle and the lock pin was not completely nested in the slot at the
> base of the handle. I have since installed a leather strap to the
> main gear base that loops around the door handle. The door pins are
> not enough in themselves (IHMO), and the lights don't make any
> difference in the situation that happened to me. The door pins had
> been in place and fully engaged.
>
> do not archive
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Apr 13, 2009, at 11:40 PM, David McNeill wrote:
>
>> yes, mechanical things fail. After checking with one of the first
>> to lose a door I decided not to install the light system. He said
>> that the first time he lost the door there was no system; but the
>> second time he lost the door the system was installed and he missed
>> it. I just check the pins physically at engine start and before
>> takeoff. Of course I can reach the pins and feel them in place;
>> some have coverings there that make that sort of check difficult.
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> ] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie
>> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:05 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches
>>
>> Ron you could also just check the door is shut
>>
>> Chris
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: McGANN, Ron
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches
>>
>> Well here=92s another one for the books. My airpath compass is
>> located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4
>> hrs on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic
>> heading aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees
>> difference at E-W between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me
>> nuts. Finally confirmed the error was in the compass by creating
>> my own compass rose on the hardstand.
>>
>> The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably less
>> than 12=94 from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong little
>> suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the
>> windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my
>> Trutrak VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also
>> might be in the interference zone of the door magnet.
>>
>> Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a
>> microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any
>> designs/installation instructions??
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Ron
>> -187
>> Finalising ADs and paperwork.
>>
>>
>> "Warning:
>> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
>> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
>> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
>> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
>> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
>> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
>> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
>> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
>> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
>> your computer."
>>
>>
>>
>>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
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>>
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Door Closed switches |
Jesse, enough said. I am installing some straps, too. Thank you! Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches
Yes, I believe that it will. I have been informed by another RV-10
owner who has a set of these straps that it was tested (whether
intentionally or otherwise I do not know) and did hold the door. I am
not about to try it myself, but I have closed the door in flight before
and the force, especially when just open a couple of inches, did not
appear to be nearly enough to break these straps. Straps made out of
strong webbing would likely work as well or better, but I like that the
leather stretches a little bit so it can be a little tight around the
handle when in place. No matter how the doors are installed and how
many steps are taken to ensure they are closed well, I still highly
recommend a backup safety like this. It gives me great peace of mind
when flying, for what it's worth. You only have to have a door come
open in flight one time, for whatever reason, before really feeling the
need (IMHO) for something like this.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Apr 15, 2009, at 6:49 PM, Roger Standley wrote:
Jesse,
Do you think the leather strap would hold the door shut even if the
pins were not engaged?
I don't imagine you have tested it, but sure would like to know.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 4:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches
FWIW, I have had a door open on me in flight because my knee hit
handle and the lock pin was not completely nested in the slot at the
base of the handle. I have since installed a leather strap to the main
gear base that loops around the door handle. The door pins are not
enough in themselves (IHMO), and the lights don't make any difference in
the situation that happened to me. The door pins had been in place and
fully engaged.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com<mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Apr 13, 2009, at 11:40 PM, David McNeill wrote:
yes, mechanical things fail. After checking with one of the
first to lose a door I decided not to install the light system. He said
that the first time he lost the door there was no system; but the
second time he lost the door the system was installed and he missed it.
I just check the pins physically at engine start and before takeoff. Of
course I can reach the pins and feel them in place; some have coverings
there that make that sort of check difficult.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
From:
owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matron
ics.com>
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-serve
r@matronics.com>] On Behalf Of Chris and Susie
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:05 PM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Closed switches
Ron you could also just check the door is shut
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron<mailto:ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Closed switches
Well here=92s another one for the books. My airpath compass
is located on the extreme left side of the panel. I spent almost 4 hrs
on the weekend trying to get the compass and GRT magnetic heading
aligned. N-S was ok, but there was 30-35 degrees difference at E-W
between the GRT Heading and compass. Drove me nuts. Finally confirmed
the error was in the compass by creating my own compass rose on the
hardstand.
The problem was the magnet in the door pin! There is probably
less than 12=94 from the magnet to the compass, but they are strong
little suckers. So, went and ordered a SIRS compass to mount on the
windshield brace. I slept on it overnight and realised that my Trutrak
VSGV control head has an internal magnetometer and also might be in the
interference zone of the door magnet.
Simplest solution is to get rid of the door magnet and use a
microswitch instead of the read relay. Does anyone have any
designs/installation instructions??
Cheers,
Ron
-187
Finalising ADs and paperwork.
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
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