Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:11 AM - Re: Heads up on mounting engine before riveting front cowling (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
2. 07:30 AM - Re: Heads up on mounting engine before riveting front cowling (jayb)
3. 07:37 AM - Re: cowl heat shield photos? (jayb)
4. 08:14 AM - Re: Heads up on mounting engine before riveting front cowling (bkbrown@minetfiber.com)
5. 12:28 PM - Re: cowl heat shield photos? (nukeflyboy)
6. 01:45 PM - Re: Re: Heads up on mounting engine before riveting front cowling (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
7. 03:22 PM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve Bracket & Location (Patrick Pulis)
8. 03:23 PM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve Bracket & Location (Patrick Pulis)
9. 03:26 PM - Re: Another 10 launch (Patrick Pulis)
10. 03:40 PM - Re: Re: Andair Fuel Valve Bracket & Location (Patrick Pulis)
11. 07:39 PM - Showplanes flap position device (woxofswa)
12. 08:30 PM - Re: Re: Defrost fans (Danny Riggs)
13. 08:34 PM - Re: Showplanes flap position device (Tim Olson)
14. 08:35 PM - Re: Showplanes flap position device (Rene Felker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Heads up on mounting engine before riveting front cowling |
Haven't thought of that but will. My thinking so far is that in order
to get the alternator to clear the firewall rivets, I'll need to pull
the entire engine. It's just four bolts and a few connections I have
wired/plumbed. Not much at this point. It would be even better to
remove the engine mount but that's a bit more involved with the nose
gear in place and all.
Actually there are 3 other jobs which will be eased with the engine
on-then-off.
1) Firewall penetration for all the engine probe stuff - EGT, head temp,
etc. Will use the Safeair device from Avery
2) remove the bottom hinge for the engine cowling attach and replace
with screws or cam-locs or something - still searching the archives for
the options here
3) install the engine controls using Van's method - make sure it works
with the throttle quadrant, hole location and engine
Now if my 3rd HF hydraulic ram will hold up through this maneuver, I
will be a happy guy
Bill
pascal wrote:
>
> Have you tried just using the hoist and lifting the engine weight off
> the plane? seems a little easier than removing it all together.
>
> Good information BTW!
> Thanks!
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 3:43 PM
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Heads up on mounting engine before riveting front
> cowling
>
>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>
>> I'm in the process of pulling the engine off so I can rivet the front
>> cowling on. It seemed like putting the engine on and doing some of
>> the work before riveting on the front cowling was a good idea. I
>> know others have done it. It still seems like a good idea. However,
>> I'm unable to rivet the cowling on with the engine in place. Even
>> with a few pop rivets, I am unable to get to the 2 or 3 rivets behind
>> 8amp alternator.
>>
>> Not a big deal but unexpected. Still seems like the best way to go
>> given the ease of wiring and panel work with cowling of and the
>> engine on.
>>
>> Bill "riveting the top cowling on this week" Watson
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Heads up on mounting engine before riveting front cowling |
I was able to rivet all but one or two places on the firewall with the engine already
on. I did remove the SD-20 alternator.
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=241037#241037
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| Subject: | Re: cowl heat shield photos? |
1) Apply thin coat of Acetone thinned epoxy
2) Cover with 1200 degree outdoor grill paint (Home Depot)
3) Apply Van's self-stick aluminum foil with edges RTV'ed for areas next to exhaust
nukeflyboy wrote:
> Tim tripped over the same verbiage I did. But let's not leave it at that. What
do you mean by "heat shield"? If you are referring to the adhesive backed
reflective material (like aluminum tape) that Van's sells then OK. If you mean
something else, then what is it?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=241042#241042
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| Subject: | Re: Heads up on mounting engine before riveting front |
cowling
Has anyone tried mounting the engine to the mount so you can just hold
that assy to the firewall to locate penetrations, etc? I didn't do that
on my 7A, but I know some people did and swear by the method...
do not archive
> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>
> Haven't thought of that but will. My thinking so far is that in order
> to get the alternator to clear the firewall rivets, I'll need to pull
> the entire engine. It's just four bolts and a few connections I have
> wired/plumbed. Not much at this point. It would be even better to
> remove the engine mount but that's a bit more involved with the nose
> gear in place and all.
>
> Actually there are 3 other jobs which will be eased with the engine
> on-then-off.
> 1) Firewall penetration for all the engine probe stuff - EGT, head temp,
> etc. Will use the Safeair device from Avery
> 2) remove the bottom hinge for the engine cowling attach and replace
> with screws or cam-locs or something - still searching the archives for
> the options here
> 3) install the engine controls using Van's method - make sure it works
> with the throttle quadrant, hole location and engine
>
> Now if my 3rd HF hydraulic ram will hold up through this maneuver, I
> will be a happy guy
>
> Bill
>
> pascal wrote:
>>
>> Have you tried just using the hoist and lifting the engine weight off
>> the plane? seems a little easier than removing it all together.
>>
>> Good information BTW!
>> Thanks!
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Bill Mauledriver Watson" <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 3:43 PM
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV10-List: Heads up on mounting engine before riveting front
>> cowling
>>
>>> <MauleDriver@nc.rr.com>
>>>
>>> I'm in the process of pulling the engine off so I can rivet the front
>>> cowling on. It seemed like putting the engine on and doing some of
>>> the work before riveting on the front cowling was a good idea. I
>>> know others have done it. It still seems like a good idea. However,
>>> I'm unable to rivet the cowling on with the engine in place. Even
>>> with a few pop rivets, I am unable to get to the 2 or 3 rivets behind
>>> 8amp alternator.
>>>
>>> Not a big deal but unexpected. Still seems like the best way to go
>>> given the ease of wiring and panel work with cowling of and the
>>> engine on.
>>>
>>> Bill "riveting the top cowling on this week" Watson
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: cowl heat shield photos? |
Looks like a good plan. I have used Van's reflective heat shield on my RV-6 and
it works well. It is only needed where the cowl is in close proximity to the
exhaust pipes (say 3-4 inches).
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=241104#241104
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| Subject: | Re: Heads up on mounting engine before riveting front |
cowling
Yeah, the SD-20 is the main problem. At this point, it's *almost*
easier to remove the engine than to cycle that thing on and off. That
4th nut is a bear!
jayb wrote:
>
> I was able to rivet all but one or two places on the firewall with the engine
already on. I did remove the SD-20 alternator.
>
> Jay
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=241037#241037
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve Bracket & Location |
Many thanks Bob.=0A=0ARegards Pat=0A=0ADo Not Archive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______
_________________________=0AFrom: Bob Turner <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>=0ATo:
rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, 22 April, 2009 7:10:52 AM=0ASub
ject: RV10-List: Re: Andair Fuel Valve Bracket & Location=0A=0A--> RV10-Lis
t message posted by: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>=0A=0AI received
a "hybrid" QB fuselage: old style fuel valve, mounting bracket (already ins
talled), plumbing. New style tunnel cover (with cloverleaf hole), valve ext
ension, handle, instructions (imagine the confusion!).=0AVans said they'd s
upport whichever configuration I wanted, so I had them send me the new styl
e mounting bracket and valve. So I had no pre-punched holes to go with, but
I put the new holes 3.5" down from the top of the center ribs. Hope this h
elps. BTW, with the long arm extension, getting the angle, and fore-aft cor
rect was more important than the depth (you can always shim the depth with
washers) since I already had the cloverleaf hole in the tunnel cover. Also,
it took a few back and forth emails with Vans to convince them that they h
ad sent the wrong spring for the handle. After they realized there was a pr
oblem, they sent a letter to recent buyers. Everyone involved should have r
eceived the new spring by now. If you're going the Andair route, this doesn
't affect you, of course.=0A=0A--------=0ABob Turner=0ARV-10 QB=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.
====0A=0A=0A Yahoo!7 recommends that you update your browser to
the new Internet Explorer 8.Get it now.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve Bracket & Location |
Many thanks Myron.=0A=0ARegards=0A=0APat=0A=0ADo Not Archive=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________=0AFrom: woxofswa <woxof@aol.com>=0ATo: rv1
0-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, 22 April, 2009 9:45:32 AM=0ASubject
: RV10-List: Re: Andair Fuel Valve Bracket & Location=0A=0A--> RV10-List me
ssage posted by: "woxofswa" <woxof@aol.com>=0A=0AThat bracket threw me for
a loop.- Some drawings show it flanges up and some show it flanges down.
=0A=0AI ended up making an adapter plate to go on top of the bracket and mo
unted the Andair valve to that using the extension.- It may not have been
the easiest way, but it all fits nice and I have no scat clearance problem
.=0A=0A--------=0AMyron Nelson=0AMesa, AZ=0AEmp completed, legacy build fus
e in progress=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums
-========================
============0A=0A=0A The new Internet Explorer 8
optimised for Yahoo!7: Faster, Safer, Easier.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Another 10 launch |
Well done bro it was worth all those hours of riveting in your cold shed in
winter and mozzies biting us in summer.=0A=0ANow for the around Australia
trek with her (and Anne).=0A=0AWishing you safe, and clear-skies.=0A=0ARe
gards=0A=0APat=0A=0A=0A-=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFr
om: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann@baesystems.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com
=0ASent: Tuesday, 21 April, 2009 9:20:45 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Another 1
0 launch=0A=0A=0AG'day all,=0A=0AHot on Deems' tail, VH-XRM punched holes i
n the wild blue yonder at 1530 Adelaide time 21 April under the expert airm
anship of Jon Johanson.- A full throttle under power condition (2580 rpm)
was treated with some minor tweaks of the governor and she has a slightly h
eavy right wing.- Other than that, and some inappropriate alarm configura
tions on the EIS, everything went extremely well.- Jon was amazed at the
full flap stall speed of 45kts indicated and even given his experience, I r
eckon the grin on his face was bigger than mine!=0A=0A1660lbs with paint an
d in flying configuration.- Oh what a feeling!!=0A=0Acheers,=0ARon=0AVH-X
RM FLYYYYINGGGG =0A"Warning: The information contained in this email and a
ny attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not
the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or a
ny attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken t
o ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss
or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility.
It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before in
===== =0A=0A=0A Enjoy a better web experience. Upgrade to
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| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve Bracket & Location |
Thanks Bob.- I thought that the brackets were different, although Vans st
ated that they were the same!=0A=0ARegards=0A=0APat=0A=0ADo No Archive=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Bob Turner <bobturner@
alum.rpi.edu>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Thursday, 23 April, 200
9 3:03:45 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Re: Andair Fuel Valve Bracket & Location
>=0A=0A"That bracket threw me for a loop. Some drawings show it flanges up
and some show it flanges down."=0A=0AThe "old style" is flanges down, brack
et mounted high in the tunnel. The "new style" is flanges up, bracket mount
ed about 3.5" lower. AND, the two brackets (new and old) are not identical.
Nor are the fuel valves.=0A=0A--------=0ABob Turner=0ARV-10 QB=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.
====0A=0A=0A Yahoo!7 recommends that you update your browser to
the new Internet Explorer 8.Get it now.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Showplanes flap position device |
I bought the flap preposition device when I bought my fuselage kit.
As I was preparing to wire it up today, I thought of a question.
When EFIS displays show flap position, are they working off of this device or a
different device, and if the latter, does that make this device redundant or
are both necessary to get both pre-select function and EFIS display?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=241164#241164
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Defrost fans |
Once you get it roughed out then using a small drum sander in a drill works
really well. I used this method for the edge light cutout and it was almos
t a perfect match for the inside curves. I believe the drum is 2" in diamet
er. 80 grit eats thru the metal real fast and is easy to control. Dan
> From: rv10@sinkrate.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Defrost fans
> Date: Thu=2C 23 Apr 2009 21:04:49 -0700
>
> Here are the pics of the work in progress. I didn't seem to take any
> pictures of the finished product. For those that plan to use the body saw
> and are worried about that tight corners use your step drill to open it u
p
> so all you have to do is cut straight lines. I know I did that but damned
> if I can find a picture.
>
> I do remember thinking "am I really going to cut into this perfectly form
ed
> leading edge?" I think I backed off with the drill about 3 times before I
> could work up the nerve.
>
> Ben Westfall
> #40579
>
>
>
> Great pics! I just want to add that I did the same cut for the HID per
> Tim=2C using the same HF tool. That was the hairiest procedure I've done
> on the plane to date... and that was 2+ years ago. WooHoo! I mean that
> curve seemed to me to be the minimum possible with that saw and that
> blade. It's a crude=2C noisy=2C vibrating=2C non-featherable tool. So the
> greater curvature for the fan is a good thing.
>
> In retrospect I should have done the same for the fans. But if you are
> doing the cut for the HIDs=2C eat your Wheaties first. I'm still a bit
> shaken by how close to disaster the whole process was. But it turned
> out well. I'd probably use my die grinder and some files now. I've
> learned to love files.
>
> Really great pics. I would have used a drum type sander on my die
> grinder. I don't use the flat face sander as much as I should. Both
> sanders are handy tools.
>
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus=2C version of virus sign
ature
> database 4031 (20090423) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
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Storage2_042009
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Showplanes flap position device |
If you got the standard positioner like I have from Van's, made by
Showplanes, it doesn't come with a position sensor...it's just a
positioner. I haven't really missed not having a position sensor, but
you can pretty easily use a sensor for things like Mac servos and
make it display on your EFIS if that's an option. The standard
positioner has worked great for me now for 480 hours, so I'm
real satisfied with it. Adding a sensor and display would be
a pretty cheap and easy task.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
woxofswa wrote:
>
> I bought the flap preposition device when I bought my fuselage kit.
> As I was preparing to wire it up today, I thought of a question.
>
> When EFIS displays show flap position, are they working off of this device or
a different device, and if the latter, does that make this device redundant or
are both necessary to get both pre-select function and EFIS display?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=241164#241164
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Showplanes flap position device |
I had to add a sensor for flap position. Did it during my first annual.....
Rene' Felker
RV-10 N423CF Flying
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 8:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Showplanes flap position device
I bought the flap preposition device when I bought my fuselage kit.
As I was preparing to wire it up today, I thought of a question.
When EFIS displays show flap position, are they working off of this device
or a different device, and if the latter, does that make this device
redundant or are both necessary to get both pre-select function and EFIS
display?
Thanks in advance.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, legacy build fuse in progress
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=241164#241164
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