Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:44 AM - Re: IAS for Pahse 1 without pants/fairings (gary)
2. 07:18 AM - Re: final door trim (Danny Riggs)
3. 07:27 AM - Re: final door trim (Rick Sked)
4. 07:51 AM - Re: final door trim (pascal)
5. 07:59 AM - Re: final door trim (Bob and Karen Brown)
6. 08:20 AM - Re: final door trim (gary)
7. 09:11 AM - Re: final door trim (Jim Berry)
8. 09:26 AM - Re: final door trim (John Cox)
9. 09:39 AM - Re: final door trim (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
10. 10:09 AM - RV-10 trio pitch servo install (linn)
11. 10:21 AM - Re: Engine purchase considerations (nukeflyboy)
12. 10:43 AM - Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install (Lenny Iszak)
13. 10:50 AM - Re: final door trim (pascal)
14. 10:58 AM - Re: Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install (linn)
15. 11:20 AM - Re: final door trim (Dave Saylor)
16. 11:37 AM - Re: Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install (Danny Riggs)
17. 11:45 AM - Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install (Lenny Iszak)
18. 11:55 AM - Re: final door trim (Les Kearney)
19. 01:08 PM - Re: Engine purchase considerations (tom.on.the.road@juno.com)
20. 01:24 PM - Re: Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install (Danny Riggs)
21. 01:40 PM - random rivet hole in fuel tank (Strasnuts)
22. 02:08 PM - Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank (Jesse Saint)
23. 02:41 PM - Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install (Lenny Iszak)
24. 03:02 PM - Re: Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install (linn)
25. 03:34 PM - Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
26. 03:40 PM - Re: Re: Engine purchase considerations (Rhonda Bewley)
27. 04:09 PM - Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank (Seano)
28. 04:26 PM - Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
29. 04:43 PM - Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank (Bob Leffler)
30. 04:47 PM - Re: final door trim (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
31. 05:05 PM - Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank (Seano)
32. 05:18 PM - 5 Seat RV-10 (Aaron Gleixner)
33. 05:21 PM - Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank (Chris and Susie)
34. 05:26 PM - Re: 5 Seat RV-10 (Chris and Susie)
35. 05:44 PM - Re: 5 Seat RV-10 (David McNeill)
36. 05:48 PM - Re: final door trim (Rob Kochman)
37. 06:08 PM - Re: 5 Seat RV-10 (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
38. 06:11 PM - "forest of tabs" location on firewall (Rob Kochman)
39. 06:27 PM - Re: 5 Seat RV-10 (Jesse Saint)
40. 06:47 PM - Re: 5 Seat RV-10 (linn)
41. 06:50 PM - Re: "forest of tabs" location on firewall (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
42. 06:55 PM - Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank (ricksked@embarqmail.com)
43. 07:11 PM - Re: "forest of tabs" location on firewall (Bill Mauledriver Watson)
44. 07:21 PM - Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank (Strasnuts)
45. 08:38 PM - Re: Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install (Danny Riggs)
46. 10:17 PM - Re: 5 Seat RV-10 (John Cox)
Message 1
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| Subject: | IAS for Pahse 1 without pants/fairings |
I know when I first flew mine, I was very disappointed in the speed, but
when I put on the pants and fairings everything came up to where it should
be. I unfortunately do not remember pre pants #s. You will probably see at
least a 12K increase though by adding the pants and fairings.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 10:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: IAS for Pahse 1 without pants/fairings
What IAS are people seeing during their flyoff without pants/fairings.
Today @ 3500' running 25 x 25, I was indicating 134 kts. I know I've got
some rigging problems (which I hope are now remedied) and have been
dragging the airplane through the sky with a yaw. Just curious as to
what I should be looking for once I get her rigged right and flying
straight.
Deems Davis
N519PJ
A whooping 3.2 hours and 3 flights !
BTW the RAM air is an INSTANT turbo, pull the valve open and MP pressure
jumps 1.9" !!!!!!!!! WOOOOHOOOOO. What a surge!!!!!! I spoke with Rod
Bower tonight and he's working on an enhancement and testing with Lycon,
and he's confident we can get 3" + boost additional with the BPE cold
air and forward facing servo :-) Who needs any stinking turbo !?
...... More to come
Message 2
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Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed
on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tend
s to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks=2C Dan
From: pascal@rv10builder.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: final door trim
Both Deems and Jim Berry had a method that reviewed last June: search - "RV
10-List: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge"
to get you started.
I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet=2C but i
n the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge squ
are so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy edge
=2C the door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The inner ed
ge of the door should be just tangent to the radius of the canopy edge. Onc
e you have the windows installed=2C apply 2 layers of release tape(packing
tape) to the edge of the doors. You should have all door locking hardware i
nstalled and adjusted to final fit. Close the doors and lock them in place.
Trowel on a mix of flox/micro to the canopy top so it fills the gap betwee
n the door edge and the canopy. After it cures=2C open the doors and remove
the packing tape. You will be left with a rabbet that exactly matches your
door edge=2C and should require very little clean up. Also=2C I would sugg
est installing the door windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.
I spent many hours slowly fitting the doors and many more after installing
the seals. You may be in for a long journey compleing Section 45.. But if d
one slowly and right it will be well worth the effort. My advice to you is
skip the Van's seals and get an aftermarket one. I didn't and it was a lot
of trimming after a perfect fit=2C it's a solid fit now but it came with a
costs of hours.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday=2C May 29=2C 2009 6:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: final door trim
Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the cabin
opening? I will just have at it soon=2C and just by gosh and by golly my
way through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans just say "Trim
to fit." I searched the archives and found no joy. Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego=2C WI
title="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
CTRL + Click to follow link" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV1
0-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE:=85more than just e-mail.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_more_042009
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: final door trim |
Cabosil is used to thicken the epoxy to prevent running. Add it to your flo
x and epoxy mix and make it thick enough to stay put.
Rick S.
40185
paint
----- Original Message -----
From: "Danny Riggs" <jdriggs49@msn.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16:27 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed
on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tend
s to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
=C2-
From: pascal@rv10builder.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: final door trim
Both Deems and Jim Berry had a method that reviewed last June: search - "RV
10-List: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge"
to get you started.
I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet, but in
the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge squar
e so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy edge, th
e door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The inner edge of
the door should be just tangent to the radius of the canopy edge. Once you
have the windows installed, apply 2 layers of release tape(packing tape) to
the edge of the doors. You should have all door locking hardware installed
and adjusted to final fit. Close the doors and lock them in place. Trowel
on a mix of flox/micro to the canopy top so it fills the gap between the do
or edge and the canopy. After it cures, open the doors and remove the packi
ng tape. You will be left with a rabbet that exactly matches your door edge
, and should require very little clean up. Also, I would suggest installing
the door windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.
I spent many hours slowly fitting the doors and many more after installing
the seals. You may be in for a long journey compleing Section 45.. But if d
one slowly and right it will be well worth the effort. My advice to you is
skip the Van's seals and get an aftermarket one. I didn't and it was a lot
of trimming after a perfect fit, it's a solid fit now but it came with a co
sts of hours.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 6:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: final door trim
Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the cabin
opening?=C2- I will just have at it soon, and just by gosh and by golly
my way through it but I am hoping there is a better way.=C2- Plans just s
ay "Trim to fit."=C2- I searched the archives and found no joy.=C2- Tha
nks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
title="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
CTRL + Click to follow link" href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV1
0-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.
matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com
/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator
?RV10-List ronics.com ww.matronics.com/contribution
Windows Live=84=A2 Hotmail=C2=AE:more than just e-mail. Check i
============
==
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: final door trim |
not thick enough! When I mixed my epoxy the consistency was that it did
not move when it was ready. like thick peanut butter.
if you grab an area of the mixed epoxy (in the mixer container) and it
sags, mix a little balloons in there until it holds.
With the small gap of the doors there really should be no sags at all.
Pascal
From: Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 6:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when
placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it
still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: pascal@rv10builder.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: final door trim
Both Deems and Jim Berry had a method that reviewed last June: search -
"RV10-List: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge"
to get you started.
I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet, but
in the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge
square so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy
edge, the door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The
inner edge of the door should be just tangent to the radius of the
canopy edge. Once you have the windows installed, apply 2 layers of
release tape(packing tape) to the edge of the doors. You should have all
door locking hardware installed and adjusted to final fit. Close the
doors and lock them in place. Trowel on a mix of flox/micro to the
canopy top so it fills the gap between the door edge and the canopy.
After it cures, open the doors and remove the packing tape. You will be
left with a rabbet that exactly matches your door edge, and should
require very little clean up. Also, I would suggest installing the door
windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.
I spent many hours slowly fitting the doors and many more after
installing the seals. You may be in for a long journey compleing Section
45.. But if done slowly and right it will be well worth the effort. My
advice to you is skip the Van's seals and get an aftermarket one. I
didn't and it was a lot of trimming after a perfect fit, it's a solid
fit now but it came with a costs of hours.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 6:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: final door trim
Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the
cabin opening? I will just have at it soon, and just by gosh and by
golly my way through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans
just say "Trim to fit." I searched the archives and found no joy.
Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
title="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
CTRL + Click to follow link"
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE:=85more than just e-mail. Check it out.
Message 5
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It's not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed
on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends
to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
_____
From: pascal@rv10builder.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: final door trim
Both Deems and Jim Berry had a method that reviewed last June: search -
"RV10-List: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge"
to get you started.
I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet, but in
the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge square
so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy edge, the
door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The inner edge of the
door should be just tangent to the radius of the canopy edge. Once you have
the windows installed, apply 2 layers of release tape(packing tape) to the
edge of the doors. You should have all door locking hardware installed and
adjusted to final fit. Close the doors and lock them in place. Trowel on a
mix of flox/micro to the canopy top so it fills the gap between the door
edge and the canopy. After it cures, open the doors and remove the packing
tape. You will be left with a rabbet that exactly matches your door edge,
and should require very little clean up. Also, I would suggest installing
the door windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.
I spent many hours slowly fitting the doors and many more after installing
the seals. You may be in for a long journey compleing Section 45.. But if
done slowly and right it will be well worth the effort. My advice to you is
skip the Van's seals and get an aftermarket one. I didn't and it was a lot
of trimming after a perfect fit, it's a solid fit now but it came with a
costs of hours.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam <mailto:daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 6:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: final door trim
Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the cabin
opening? I will just have at it soon, and just by gosh and by golly my way
through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans just say "Trim to
fit." I searched the archives and found no joy. Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
title="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
CTRL + Click to follow link"
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
_____
Windows LiveT HotmailR:.more than just e-mail. Check it out.
<http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_more_042009>
Message 6
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Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are
weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
It=92s not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when
placed
on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still
tends
to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
_____
From: pascal@rv10builder.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: final door trim
Both Deems and Jim Berry had a method that reviewed last June: search -
"RV10-List: Re: 45 degree angle on the door edge"
to get you started.
I will be interested to hear how Richard created a 1/8 inch rabbet, but
in
the mean time I can suggest an alternative. If you trim the door edge
square
so that it sits slightly inside the curved portion of the canopy edge,
the
door edge can serve as a mold for creating the rabbet. The inner edge of
the
door should be just tangent to the radius of the canopy edge. Once you
have
the windows installed, apply 2 layers of release tape(packing tape) to
the
edge of the doors. You should have all door locking hardware installed
and
adjusted to final fit. Close the doors and lock them in place. Trowel on
a
mix of flox/micro to the canopy top so it fills the gap between the door
edge and the canopy. After it cures, open the doors and remove the
packing
tape. You will be left with a rabbet that exactly matches your door
edge,
and should require very little clean up. Also, I would suggest
installing
the door windows with the doors mounted on the canopy.
I spent many hours slowly fitting the doors and many more after
installing
the seals. You may be in for a long journey compleing Section 45.. But
if
done slowly and right it will be well worth the effort. My advice to you
is
skip the Van's seals and get an aftermarket one. I didn't and it was a
lot
of trimming after a perfect fit, it's a solid fit now but it came with a
costs of hours.
Pascal
From: Dave Leikam <mailto:daveleikam@wi.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 6:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: final door trim
Does anyone have a good method for final trimming of the doors to the
cabin
opening? I will just have at it soon, and just by gosh and by golly my
way
through it but I am hoping there is a better way. Plans just say "Trim
to
fit." I searched the archives and found no joy. Thanks.
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
title="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
CTRL + Click to follow link"
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ronics.com
ww.matronics.com/contribution
_____
Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE:=85more than just e-mail. Check it out.
<http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_more_042009
>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: final door trim |
As to trimming the doors to fit, I would recommend the double tape method copied
below from the archives. Although the original discussion was related to trimming
the cowl, it works equally well for the doors. There are several posts by
others in the same thread. I used the method below to establish the cut line
for the doors. Although I had used the double tape method many times for sheet
metal and wood veneer fitting, I totally spaced it out till I saw Dave Saylor
demo it at his first composite workshop. Works great. Once that was done, I
used the duct tape method to create a new edge and gap for the door opening.
#14935 Subject: Re: Trimming the cowling From: "jim berry" Date: Jan 23, 2008
I was able to trim mine to a very close fit with 2 layers of masking tape. Two
inch wide tape works well for the cowl. Position the first layer of tape so that
the forward edge matches the forward edge of your sheet metal. Position your
upper or lower cowl per Van's instructions. Now position a second layer of tape
the same width as the first so that the aft edge matches the aft edge of the
first layer of tape. The forward edge of the second layer is your cut line.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242091#242091
Message 8
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Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the
wall near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others
have done by the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long
habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance
of being right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of
structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same
quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers,
strands or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More
epoxy "Resin Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats
at Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are
weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
It's not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when
placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it
still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: final door trim |
Umm Gary AND Rick's comment ; )
Rick S.
40185
Paint
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "John Cox" <johnwcox@pacificnw.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
Finally downloaded my pics from the camera. Here's my install. The
plate has the left and right sides bent downward and the aft side is
bent up for stiffness. I used the 4 aft screws of the pivot plate, and
the one under the servo I countersunk. Any questions?
Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> Does anyone have install pictures of the pitch servo from Trio Avionics?
>
> Regards,
> Lenny
> #40803
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase considerations |
Bob said
"Most of the folks that went with a rebuild ended up spending 80-90% of new and
had a slew of headaches and/or issues that wouldnt have happened with a new engine.
"
I have to challenge you one this one. There is a very strong rebuild market out
there and they wouldn't be in business if your statement was close to correct.
Most of the certified aircraft go for rebuilds at TBO. The other posts indicate
that you can get an engine for less than 50% of a new one. The worst oil
leak I saw on an engine was a brand new out-of-the-box Lyc. They say that
1 quart leak every 5 hours is "within limits".
Resale considerations are only for those that plan on selling and truly factor
cost/benefit into the equation. After all, a used airplane is a used airplane.
Would the actual sale price be $20,000 higher if you installed a new engine
in an airplane that now has 500 hours? Will you get $250 more because you installed
an Andair fuel valve or $500 more because you installed a throttle quadrant
or $3000 more because of the leather seats? I don't think so. IMHO the
best strategy strictly for resale profit is straight plans built, a rebuilt engine
and prop, second hand good avionics, local upholstery and a home paint job.
But who really wants to do just this? In the end you should spend what you
can afford and be able to live with decisions you made and not second guess
yourself. Go for the BPE engine if that is what you want. Or not.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242108#242108
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
Thanks Linn, looks good, what thickness of aluminum did you use for the plate?
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242110#242110
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| Subject: | Re: final door trim |
As a reminder to answer the original question.
Here is a little primer for those still unsure exactly what product to
use
when.
Straight epoxy is used to lay up fiberglass cloth. This should be done
without additives like those listed below.
Cabosil is used to stop slumping and running of the epoxy. It does not
weaken the epoxy like micro Balloons does.
Chopped fibers (chopped fiberglass), Flox (chopped cotton)are used like
re-bar to give additional strength to the mix. The down side is that it
makes the cured resin a bugger to sand and does not usually give a very
smooth surface.
Micro or Micro Balloons are small spheres used to extend the resin to
make
it easier to sand and have less weight than pure epoxy. However the
strength of the mix is weaker. The more balloons you add the weaker the
mix
is.
The trick is to analyze your need and then mix up the appropriate
material
for use.
Hopefully this helps a little for those who are just getting there feet
wet
with this medium.
Gary Specketer
Dragonfly, Glasair III, Glastar, RV10, Tech counselor
From: John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the
wall near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others
have done by the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long
habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance
of being right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of
structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same
quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers,
strands or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More
epoxy "Resin Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats
at Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are
weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
It's not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when
placed on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it
still tends to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
.060
Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> Thanks Linn, looks good, what thickness of aluminum did you use for the plate?
>
> Lenny
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242110#242110
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 15
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John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door opening.
The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regularly so it
needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers. Micro
will crack and chip.
Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to keep
it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if
you haven't already.
And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9 and
10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and more:
http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the
fuselage. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no
charge. I can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
Thanks John!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall
near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by
the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habit
of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being
right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of
structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same
quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands
or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin
Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at
Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are
weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
It's not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed
on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends
to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
Can anybody post pix of the elevator Trio mounting? I used the provided mo
unting plate but the arm from the servo to the elevator control arm ended u
p being a lot shorter than I would have expected vis-a-vis the materials su
pplied. I'd like to verify that I did it correctly. Thanks=2C Dan
From: pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install
.060
Lenny Iszak wrote:
Thanks Linn=2C looks good=2C what thickness of aluminum did you use for the
plate?
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242110#242110
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE:=85more than just e-mail.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_more_042009
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
Dan,
Linn's photo is of the elevator mounting of the Trio servo.
Lenny
--------
Regards,
Lenny
#40803
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242126#242126
Message 18
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Hi
I took Dave's class last fall and it was well worth the trip to Watsonville,
even from Alberta Canada. The nice wx didn't hurt either.
Dave's crew can fit a top so expertly that it will make you cry when you see
how simple they make it seem. Dave also gives "lifetime tech support" for
people who take his class.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643 - some assembly required
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: April-30-09 12:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door opening.
The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regularly so it
needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers. Micro
will crack and chip.
Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to keep
it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if
you haven't already.
And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9 and
10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and more:
http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the
fuselage. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no
charge. I can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
Thanks John!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall
near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by
the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habit
of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being
right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of
structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same
quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands
or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin
Rich" destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at
Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are
weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen
Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
It's not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed
on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tends
to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase considerations |
Guys & Gals,
I (I'm a builder) have an IO-540 (100 hrs since overhaul and new crank).
It has 270 HP and all the accessories. It had a propstrike and was
removed from a Lancair Legacy that bellied in (the owner now wants a
turbine). It will have been fully inspected by The New Firewall Forward,
it will be re-certified, will have a 4 year warranty on the cam &
lifters, and will be run on the dyno for 2 hours. Since the rings
weren't removed, no break-in will be required.
It can be had for less than $30K.
Tom Lawson
970-420-1798
____________________________________________________________
Click to learn about options trading and get the latest information.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTIzQZQ4eLwbklvZg1bs7ciP7folMwvwcpd5oKyqLKdegXKMtIOJvK/
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
You are correct! I miss spoke (brain fart). I need to look at where the aer
alon connects to the Trio AP. That's where I'm having trouble. Thanks again
. Dan
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install
> From: lenard@rapiddecision.com
> Date: Thu=2C 30 Apr 2009 11:43:58 -0700
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> Dan=2C
>
> Linn's photo is of the elevator mounting of the Trio servo.
>
> Lenny
>
> --------
> Regards=2C
> Lenny
> #40803
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242126#242126
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Get quick friend updates right in your inbox.
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_
Updates2_042009
Message 21
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| Subject: | random rivet hole in fuel tank |
I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to baffle
on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the machine countersunk
holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I can't find in the plans
what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I assume it does but it doesn't
show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else know what this is?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
I don't remember if both the skin and the baffle have the extra hole,
or just one or the other. It just gets a normal rivet.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Apr 30, 2009, at 4:39 PM, Strasnuts wrote:
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank
> skin to baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the
> rest of the machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on
> the bottom. I can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it
> gets riveted. I assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in
> the plans. Anyone else know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
I'm not there yet, but they do sell a nice black anodized roll servo bracket.
I wish they would have given us a smilar bracket for the picth servo...
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242171#242171
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/roll_servo_bracket_637.jpg
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
Danny, Trio has a nifty bracket for the RV-10 aileron connection ......
saw it at Sun-N-Fun ..... and they wouldn't turn their back on it! It
does have a really short connecting tube.
Linn
Danny Riggs wrote:
> You are correct! I miss spoke (brain fart). I need to look at where
> the aeralon connects to the Trio AP. That's where I'm having trouble.
> Thanks again. Dan
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
Rick S.
40185
------Original Message------
From: Strasnuts
Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
ReplyTo: Rv
Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to baffle
on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the machine countersunk
holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I can't find in the plans
what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I assume it does but it doesn't
show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else know what this is?
Thanks
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Engine purchase considerations |
Okay. I've resisted, but it's the end of the day - so what the heck . . . I think
this post is getting a little off course, so I'm going to give my own two
cents, and that may be all it's worth :-)
The fact of the matter is that you can find an engine for a wide variety of prices.
If you are one of the individuals that happens upon a good mid-time engine
that is in good shape, that's great. Most of the engines that are available
from a company like Wentworth are coming from a damaged plane. Make no mistake,
they are a salvage dealer. Some are okay, some are not. You take your chances
with an engine like this, and that is your decision as the builder. Kudos
to those that get a good one!
But, buying a core (getting harder to do) and overhaul costs vary significantly
depending on the quality of the engine builder, if they use service limit parts,
if they install overhauled cylinders and/or reject parts (like crankshafts
people!!), if they have the tools, testing equipment, overhaul data and a significant
number of other variables.
>From our shop, an engine overhauled to factory new limits isn't much less than
a new engine. Everyone has their own needs, budget and performance alike. We
have folks that have factory engines drop shipped to us on a regular basis for
testing, balancing and blue-printing, high performance mods, and you do find
some "interesting" things from time-to-time.
Two quick side notes, I don't believe Lycoming says 1 qt. of oil leakage in 5 hours
is acceptable. I believe they say 1 qt usage in 5 hours is. Also, someone
made the statement about the adverse affects of porting/flow matching - you
can over port cylinders which will result in negative affects in terms of reliability
and performance. One pilot I know whose engine was built by another
shop recently told me he's losing compressions after about 5 hours of run time
on his engine. This may be a result of over porting.
Everybody have a great night . . . flame on!
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of nukeflyboy
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 12:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Engine purchase considerations
Bob said
"Most of the folks that went with a rebuild ended up spending 80-90% of new and
had a slew of headaches and/or issues that wouldnt have happened with a new engine.
"
I have to challenge you one this one. There is a very strong rebuild market out
there and they wouldn't be in business if your statement was close to correct.
Most of the certified aircraft go for rebuilds at TBO. The other posts indicate
that you can get an engine for less than 50% of a new one. The worst oil
leak I saw on an engine was a brand new out-of-the-box Lyc. They say that
1 quart leak every 5 hours is "within limits".
Resale considerations are only for those that plan on selling and truly factor
cost/benefit into the equation. After all, a used airplane is a used airplane.
Would the actual sale price be $20,000 higher if you installed a new engine
in an airplane that now has 500 hours? Will you get $250 more because you installed
an Andair fuel valve or $500 more because you installed a throttle quadrant
or $3000 more because of the leather seats? I don't think so. IMHO the
best strategy strictly for resale profit is straight plans built, a rebuilt engine
and prop, second hand good avionics, local upholstery and a home paint job.
But who really wants to do just this? In the end you should spend what you
can afford and be able to live with decisions you made and not second guess
yourself. Go for the BPE engine if that is what you want. Or not.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - cabin top/fiberglass hell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242108#242108
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
It is lined up with the baffle hole, I just thought it was weird that the
rivet diagram shows an open hole. I will rivet it.
thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ------Original Message------
> From: Strasnuts
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to
> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
> know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
Look on the other side of the baffle...you will see the "other" hole
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Seano" <sean@braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
It is lined up with the baffle hole, I just thought it was weird that the
rivet diagram shows an open hole. I will rivet it.
thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ------Original Message------
> From: Strasnuts
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to
> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
> know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | random rivet hole in fuel tank |
Sean,
In looking at 18-5, I see what you are referring to.
Get use to it, it only gets worse as you progress. The plans start
assuming that you know what you are doing and start leaving out steps or not
totally correct illustrations. You'll find yourself having to read ahead
in the plans to get answers to some of things that aren't clearly
documented. The wing plans aren't too bad. I find that I'm spending
significantly more time with the fuselage plans studying things before I
actually start the task.
Yes, just put a rivet in it.
bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
It is lined up with the baffle hole, I just thought it was weird that the
rivet diagram shows an open hole. I will rivet it.
thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ------Original Message------
> From: Strasnuts
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to
> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
> know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
Message 30
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|
One thing I haven't really seen mentioned is why micro is a bad idea for
anything structural or that takes a beating and some people might not know.
Microballoons are just that, little hollow glass or phenolic spheres that
are mostly air. This is why they are so light and can be sanded easy, but
unfortunately adding a mostly air filler to a structure will just weaken i
t. The primary exception to this is when you are preparing foam for compos
ite work but I won't go there. :)
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door opening
. The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regularly so it
needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers. Micro
will crack and chip.
Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to keep
it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if y
ou haven't already.
And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9 an
d 10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and more
: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the fuselag
e. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no charge. I
can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
Thanks John!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall n
ear the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done by
the dozens.
To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long habi
t of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of being
right".
Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of st
ructural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same quanti
ty. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, strands or f
ilaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin Rich"
destroys that objective.
This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at D
ave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are weakeni
ng it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
Gary Specketer
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob and Karen Brown
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
It's not thick enough. Add more micro.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Danny Riggs
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: final door trim
Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when placed
on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still tend
s to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
Thanks Bob,
I don't know what I'm doing, it's just a good thing I have this forum to
bounce questions off of.
Sean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> Sean,
>
> In looking at 18-5, I see what you are referring to.
>
> Get use to it, it only gets worse as you progress. The plans start
> assuming that you know what you are doing and start leaving out steps or
> not
> totally correct illustrations. You'll find yourself having to read ahead
> in the plans to get answers to some of things that aren't clearly
> documented. The wing plans aren't too bad. I find that I'm spending
> significantly more time with the fuselage plans studying things before I
> actually start the task.
>
> Yes, just put a rivet in it.
>
> bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:01 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
> It is lined up with the baffle hole, I just thought it was weird that the
> rivet diagram shows an open hole. I will rivet it.
>
> thanks
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
> To: "Rv" <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:30 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
>>
>> Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
>>
>> Rick S.
>> 40185
>> ------Original Message------
>> From: Strasnuts
>> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> To: Rv
>> ReplyTo: Rv
>> Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>>
>>
>> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin
>> to
>
>> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
>> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
>> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
>> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
>> know what this is?
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> --------
>> Cust. #40936
>> A&P, ATP
>> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
>> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
>> N801VR reserved
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it.- I called-my insurance broker that is currently insuri
ng my RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing to pro
vide insurance for a 5 seat RV-10.--Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV?
- Have you been able to-insure a 5 seat RV?- Did you-register the p
lane as a 4 seat or a 5 seat?-
-
Aaron-
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
Yes you do Sean your building a magic carpet!
Chris
do not archive
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: 5 Seat RV-10 |
Aaron i am not sure of the rules over their however you can put 5 people
in a 4 seater if the extra person is under a ....not sure it is weight
or age?? So you could insure it as a 4 seater , carry the extra kid for
a while anyway.
not sure this will help
Chris ICY
----- Original Message -----
From: Aaron Gleixner
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 10:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench
seat in the back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next
few years until they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is
currently insuring my RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance
companies willing to provide insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone
else have a 5 seat RV? Have you been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did
you register the plane as a 4 seat or a 5 seat?
Aaron
Message 35
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|
I think this is a case of DON'T ASK DON'T TELL.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Gleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is currently insuring my
RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing to provide
insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV? Have you
been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did you register the plane as a 4 seat or
a 5 seat?
Aaron
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: final door trim |
I'll echo Les' comments.... great class, very informative, and it was fun t
o
met Les and a bunch of other RV-10 builders. The basics were good for me,
having no experience with composites; however, the real value was walking
through all the RV-10-specific stuff. We just finished trimming the cabin
cover, and it was definitely faster and we had more confidence, having seen
it done before.
-Rob
On Thu, Apr 30, 2009 at 11:55 AM, Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Hi
>
>
> I took Dave=92s class last fall and it was well worth the trip to
> Watsonville, even from Alberta Canada. The nice wx didn=92t hurt either.
>
>
> Dave=92s crew can fit a top so expertly that it will make you cry when yo
u
> see how simple they make it seem. Dave also gives =93lifetime tech suppor
t=94
> for people who take his class.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643 ' some assembly required
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave Saylor
> *Sent:* April-30-09 12:19 PM
>
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: final door trim
>
>
> John's right, you don't want to use micro near the edge of the door
> opening. The door and other things tend to touch the edge pretty regular
ly
> so it needs to be filled with something tough like flox or milled fibers.
> Micro will crack and chip.
>
>
> Cabosil (Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-04711) will help thicken the resin to kee
p
> it from running. You'll need some for bonding the door skins together if
> you haven't already.
>
>
> And yes, we do have Composites for RV-10s coming up in a few days, May 9
> and 10. We have a few seats available, and we cover all this stuff, and
> more: http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
>
>
> We are still looking for a nearby kit that needs the top fit to the
> fuselage. If you're intersted, we do it for you in a couple hours, no
> charge. I can pick up and deliver around the Bay Area.
>
>
> Thanks John!
>
>
> Dave Saylor
>
> AirCrafters LLC
>
> 140 Aviation Way
>
> Watsonville, CA
>
> 831-722-9141
>
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
> www.AirCraftersLLC.com <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Cox
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:24 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: final door trim
>
> Everyone needs to cut Gary's comment for framing and paste it to the wall
> near the epoxy and micro supply. Don't make the mistake others have done
by
> the dozens.
>
>
> To use Thomas Paine's quote, immortalized by Robert Nuckolls - "a long
> habit of not thinking a thing wrong, gives it a superficial appearance of
> being right".
>
>
> Micro gives volume with little gain in weight, and a false perception of
> structural strength. Epoxy has tremendous gain in weight for the same
> quantity. Epoxy's job is to bridge the stress forces across fibers, stra
nds
> or filaments to complete the creation of a composite. More epoxy "Resin
> Rich" destroys that objective.
>
>
> This would be a great time to plug for the filling of those last seats at
> Dave Saylor's RV-1 composite class coming up.
>
>
> John Cox
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *gary
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 30, 2009 8:10 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: final door trim
>
>
> Cabosil is a better choice. You have flox for strength but you are
> weakening it with micro. Flox and cabosil is the way to go.
>
>
> Gary Specketer
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob and Karen Brown
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:58 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: final door trim
>
>
> It=92s not thick enough. Add more micro.
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Danny Riggs
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 30, 2009 7:16 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: final door trim
>
>
> Any tips on how to keep the flox/micro from running everywhere when place
d
> on a vertical surface? Even after making it super super thick it still te
nds
> to sag AFTER I've left it looking good. Thanks, Dan**
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> *href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
c*
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
>
===========
===========
===========
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 37
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|
I don't agree that a bench seat automatically means it's a 5 seat aircraf
t. I also don't see that putting three kids in the back is necessarily a v
iolation of the oplims as long as you have a way to properly restrain every
one and don't exceed weights or CG's. I'm sure there are people wiser than
me in the regs that can chime in though, just my opinion and has no basis
in legal fact. :)
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Gleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is currently insuring m
y RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing to provide
insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV? Have yo
u been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did you register the plane as a 4 seat
or a 5 seat?
Aaron
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | "forest of tabs" location on firewall |
I'm trying to do much of the wiring on my -10 now, so I need to put the
common ground somewhere. Does anyone have know of a good place to put the
B&C "forest of tabs" on the firewall (both sides of the firewall, as
described in Bob's book)? I'll be doing the FWF by the plans (except for
the grounds, I suppose).
Thanks...
-Rob
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: 5 Seat RV-10 |
Of course, insurance doesn't really come into play if nothing bad
happens, but if it is insured as a 4-seater and it goes down (God
forbid) or has some kind of problems with 5 people in it, then the
insurance company could refuse coverage. In a lot of things I go with
the "what they don't know can't hurt them", thing, but with insurance
it may be better to self-insure as a 5-seater if you expect to fly
that way a lot. I am not saying don't insure it, just that it isn't
as easy as just not telling them.
do not archive
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Apr 30, 2009, at 8:42 PM, David McNeill wrote:
> I think this is a case of DON'T ASK DON'T TELL.
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> ] On Behalf Of Aaron Gleixner
> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
>
> I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat
> in the back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next
> few years until they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that
> is currently insuring my RV-8A, and they said there were no
> insurance companies willing to provide insurance for a 5 seat
> RV-10. Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV? Have you been able to
> insure a 5 seat RV? Did you register the plane as a 4 seat or a 5
> seat?
>
> Aaron
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: 5 Seat RV-10 |
I'm not so sure. The Grumman-American AA-1B is registered as a 2-place
airplane, yet they sold a bench seat that went in the baggage
compartment. Limited to 80 Lbs .... the seat was 20 Lbs and the baggage
area is limited to 100 Lbs ...... if I remember correctly ..... which is
happening less often.
Linn
Jesse Saint wrote:
> Of course, insurance doesn't really come into play if nothing bad
> happens, but if it is insured as a 4-seater and it goes down (God
> forbid) or has some kind of problems with 5 people in it, then the
> insurance company could refuse coverage. In a lot of things I go with
> the "what they don't know can't hurt them", thing, but with insurance it
> may be better to self-insure as a 5-seater if you expect to fly that way
> a lot. I am not saying don't insure it, just that it isn't as easy as
> just not telling them.
>
> do not archive
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: "forest of tabs" location on firewall |
I put mine up next to the brake reservoir. I didn't need any tabs on the firewall
side, dedicated grounds ran into the cabin using bulkhead AMP connectors. The
engine is also grounded to the same tab plate through the 3/8 mounting bolt.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>
Subject: RV10-List: "forest of tabs" location on firewall
I'm trying to do much of the wiring on my -10 now, so I need to put the
common ground somewhere. Does anyone have know of a good place to put the
B&C "forest of tabs" on the firewall (both sides of the firewall, as
described in Bob's book)? I'll be doing the FWF by the plans (except for
the grounds, I suppose).
Thanks...
-Rob
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
I know this may be a dead horse but if you look at the baffles you will see three
very close holes on the bottom of the tank side of the baffle and only two
directly above it on the top side of the baffle...the "extra" hole indicates the
bottom of the baffle and the skins correspond accordingly....IIRC
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Seano" <sean@braunandco.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
It is lined up with the baffle hole, I just thought it was weird that the
rivet diagram shows an open hole. I will rivet it.
thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: <ricksked@embarqmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
> Its not random, turn your skins until all the holes are lined up..
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ------Original Message------
> From: Strasnuts
> Sender: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> To: Rv
> ReplyTo: Rv
> Sent: Apr 30, 2009 1:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: random rivet hole in fuel tank
>
>
> I am working on the fuel tanks and noticed a hole on the fuel tank skin to
> baffle on the bottom of the wing. It is in line with the rest of the
> machine countersunk holes and is about in the middle on the bottom. I
> can't find in the plans what this goes to and if it gets riveted. I
> assume it does but it doesn't show it riveted in the plans. Anyone else
> know what this is?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Cust. #40936
> A&P, ATP
> typed CE-525(s), CE-500
> RV-10 FUEL TANKS
> N801VR reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242155#242155
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: "forest of tabs" location on firewall |
This has worked well for me so far... at least no regrets so far. You
can locate this by reference to the brake fluid resevoir. Access to the
cockpit side is primarily thru one of the holes the plans suggest you
make in the instrument panel bulkhead. I'm wiring it up now.
Bill "wiring like crazy" Watson
Rob Kochman wrote:
> I'm trying to do much of the wiring on my -10 now, so I need to put
> the common ground somewhere. Does anyone have know of a good place to
> put the B&C "forest of tabs" on the firewall (both sides of the
> firewall, as described in Bob's book)? I'll be doing the FWF by the
> plans (except for the grounds, I suppose).
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Rob
> *
>
>
> *
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: random rivet hole in fuel tank |
Yep,
I definitely realized the top and bottom of the baffle to the skin and the three
close holes. The problem was the plans had no rivet in the middle of the three
close holes. I thought maybe I shouldn't be countersinking this hole but
realized it was missed in the rivet layout. You have to look extremely close
at the rivet layout to notice the hole without a rivet designation.
Thanks for responding though.
--------
Cust. #40936
A&P, ATP
typed CE-525(s), CE-500
RV-10 FUEL TANKS
N801VR reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242225#242225
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install |
Okay thanks. I bought the complete kit from Trio (Hi Jerry!). It just seeme
d that the connecting rod was REALLY short. I want to get it correct before
I put the last skin on the wing as it will infinitely harder to make adjus
tments once its riveted down. The mounting bracket is pretty nice. wish the
y had one for the pitch. However that will be relatively easy to fab. Dan
> Date: Thu=2C 30 Apr 2009 17:58:28 -0400
> From: pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 trio pitch servo install
>
>
> Danny=2C Trio has a nifty bracket for the RV-10 aileron connection ......
> saw it at Sun-N-Fun ..... and they wouldn't turn their back on it! It
> does have a really short connecting tube.
> Linn
>
> Danny Riggs wrote:
> > You are correct! I miss spoke (brain fart). I need to look at where
> > the aeralon connects to the Trio AP. That's where I'm having trouble.
> > Thanks again. Dan
> >
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
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Message 46
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The question sounds like ...."Has anyone successfully gotten the FAA to app
roved a four POB amateur built kit single engine aircraft as a five in thei
r Ops Limitation?"
I know of several pilots who have ignored the limitation cause the weight w
as within W&B and flew with five soles. The policy becomes automatically v
oidable. Someone should ask Sky Smith.
John Cox
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thu 4/30/2009 6:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I don't agree that a bench seat automatically means it's a 5 seat aircraf
t. I also don't see that putting three kids in the back is necessarily a v
iolation of the oplims as long as you have a way to properly restrain every
one and don't exceed weights or CG's. I'm sure there are people wiser than
me in the regs that can chime in though, just my opinion and has no basis
in legal fact. J
Michael
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Gleixner
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 5 Seat RV-10
I'm getting close to finishing my RV-10 and have built a bench seat in the
back to fly my three young daughters at least for the next few years until
they outgrow it. I called my insurance broker that is currently insuring m
y RV-8A, and they said there were no insurance companies willing to provide
insurance for a 5 seat RV-10. Does anyone else have a 5 seat RV? Have yo
u been able to insure a 5 seat RV? Did you register the plane as a 4 seat
or a 5 seat?
Aaron
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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