Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:05 AM - elevator trailing edge (James Ochs)
2. 09:44 AM - Re: Electric Rudder Trim (James Ochs)
3. 10:04 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Tim Olson)
4. 10:04 AM - Re: "forest of tabs" location on firewall (Rob Kochman)
5. 10:04 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Bob Leffler)
6. 10:21 AM - Re: Re: Electric Rudder Trim (Dj Merrill)
7. 12:37 PM - Re: W&B update (cjay)
8. 01:34 PM - Re: Re: W&B update (David McNeill)
9. 02:40 PM - Door Straps (Chris Hukill)
10. 05:10 PM - Re: Door Straps (Don McDonald)
11. 08:34 PM - Annual inspection (pilotdds@aol.com)
12. 09:12 PM - Canopy Question / Observation (Les Kearney)
13. 10:02 PM - Re: Canopy Question / Observation (Rob Kochman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | elevator trailing edge |
Hi all,
Finally back to building after about a 2 year break :P I did the
dynaseal thing on the elevator trailing edges last night and after I
got the left elevator ribs in, the wedge sealed in, and the cleco's in
I realized I forgot to make the bend in the edge so there's about a
32nd (maybe a bit less) of a gap in the trailing edge. Is there
anyway to fix that after the fact?
I know it's a cosmetic thing, but it bugs me since the rudder and
right elevator came out pretty nice ;)
Thanks,
James
--
#40400
finishing up the elevators
http://www.froody.org/heartofgold/
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
Hi all,
I'm also interested in doing Vic's trim mod on my rudder. I found the
part #'s from an earlier post for the access plate, doubler(s) and
servo. Is there also a part # for the pushrod fairing, or is that
something we have to make ourselves?
Thanks,
James
--
#40400
finishing up elevators
http://www.froody.org/heartofgold/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
That's just a normal rudder cable exit fairing available
from Aircraft Spruce or Avery and other places. Or, you
can make it yourself.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
James Ochs wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm also interested in doing Vic's trim mod on my rudder. I found the
> part #'s from an earlier post for the access plate, doubler(s) and
> servo. Is there also a part # for the pushrod fairing, or is that
> something we have to make ourselves?
>
> Thanks,
> James
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: "forest of tabs" location on firewall |
Thanks, guys for the advice; very helpful. I think I'll go with the same
spot Bill shows in his picture. I stumbled across a pic of Van's prototype
that seems to show it's a good location, too:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/undercowl/P0003082.html
-Rob
On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 12:43 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <
bob.condrey@baesystems.com> wrote:
> There are a number of potential items on the engine side of the firewall
> are pressure senders, pressure switches, hall effect current sensor, tach
> generator for RPM pickup, etc. Depending on your installation you might
> have all, none or any combination. Also, some sensors will ground throug
h
> the case and others have a ground wire. I think I=92ve got 4 items groun
ded
> on the engine side of the firewall.
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John Testement
> *Sent:* Friday, May 01, 2009 2:11 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: "forest of tabs" location on firewall
>
>
> Rob,
>
>
> I put mine of the inside of the firewall on the far left and ran a #2
> ground from the rear battery. On the engine side I ran a braided cable fr
om
> the mounting bolt to the engine. There was really nothing to ground on th
e
> engine side of the firewall. As it ended up most of the grounds came from
> the avionics and I put 3 10-tab ground =91buses=92 (got from Stein) next
to/on
> the avionics stack.
>
>
> John Testement
>
> N311RV flying
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill Mauledriver
> Watson
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 30, 2009 10:11 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: "forest of tabs" location on firewall
>
>
> This has worked well for me so far... at least no regrets so far. You ca
n
> locate this by reference to the brake fluid resevoir. Access to the cock
pit
> side is primarily thru one of the holes the plans suggest you make in the
> instrument panel bulkhead. I'm wiring it up now.
>
> Bill "wiring like crazy" Watson
>
>
> Rob Kochman wrote:
>
> I'm trying to do much of the wiring on my -10 now, so I need to put the
> common ground somewhere. Does anyone have know of a good place to put th
e
> B&C "forest of tabs" on the firewall (both sides of the firewall, as
> described in Bob's book)? I'll be doing the FWF by the plans (except for
> the grounds, I suppose).
>
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> -Rob
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> * href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> * href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> * href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com
/contribution*
>
> * *
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 04/29/09 06:37:00
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
You can get them from Avery and Aircraft Spruce.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 12:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Hi all,
I'm also interested in doing Vic's trim mod on my rudder. I found the
part #'s from an earlier post for the access plate, doubler(s) and
servo. Is there also a part # for the pushrod fairing, or is that
something we have to make ourselves?
Thanks,
James
--
#40400
finishing up elevators
http://www.froody.org/heartofgold/
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Electric Rudder Trim |
On 5/3/2009 1:01 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> That's just a normal rudder cable exit fairing available
> from Aircraft Spruce or Avery and other places. Or, you
> can make it yourself.
Page 38 of the June 2009 Kitplanes has an article showing how to make
them. Looks pretty easy.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ KR-2 Builder N770DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/ http://deej.net/kr-2/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
Message 7
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[quote="dlm46007(at)cox.net"]Just completed the first annual and re weighed after
installing the extra battery. The new weight is 1666 and a cg of 108.13.
installing the 680 on the firewall moved the CG about an inch forward. I won't
feel any anxiety loading 100 pounds in the baggage area (35 pounds of tools
and 65 pounds of family things). Based on a previous weight I calculate the
battery at 15 and the paint at 21.
> [b]
Can you show us where you placed the 680 in the front?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242523#242523
Message 8
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Exterior and interior views
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 12:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: W&B update
[quote="dlm46007(at)cox.net"]Just completed the first annual and re weighed
after installing the extra battery. The new weight is 1666 and a cg of
108.13. installing the 680 on the firewall moved the CG about an inch
forward. I won't feel any anxiety loading 100 pounds in the baggage area
(35 pounds of tools and 65 pounds of family things). Based on a previous
weight I calculate the battery at 15 and the paint at 21.
> [b]
Can you show us where you placed the 680 in the front?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242523#242523
Message 9
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I am working on the cabin doors and would like to install some
reinforcements and nutplates in the doors to attach door straps to. I
would like some suggestions as to where on the door the straps should
attach to be easily reached and used to hold onto with the door cracked
while taxing for ventilation. Not having an airplane to sit in to
determine where a good location on the door would be that would allow
for a comfortable reach and yet be out of the way when not in use, I am
soliciting ideas and pictures.
Thanks
Chris (I can't believe people would build an entire airplane out of this
miserable fiberglass) Hukill
Message 10
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I did this without the need for reinforcing the door.- Looked all over fo
r a decent strap.... then found these for $2.98 at $9.98 store in Roseville
, CA.- Can get them for you if you'd like.- Slight modification to the
strap and then paid to have a handle sewed.- Works great, looks pretty go
od to.
Don McDonald
Flirst flight scheduled tentatively for this Friday.
--- On Sun, 5/3/09, Chris Hukill <cjhukill@cox.net> wrote:
From: Chris Hukill <cjhukill@cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Door Straps
I am working on the cabin doors and would like to install some reinforcemen
ts and nutplates in the doors to attach door straps to. I would like some s
uggestions as to where on the door the straps should- attach to be easily
reached and used to hold onto with the door cracked while taxing for venti
lation. Not having an airplane to sit in to determine where a good location
on the door would be that would allow for a comfortable reach- and yet b
e out of the way when not in use, I am soliciting ideas and pictures.
Thanks
Chris (I can't believe people would build an entire airplane out of this mi
serable fiberglass) Hukill
=0A=0A=0A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Annual inspection |
Just finished my third annual inspection.Watch the area in the tunnel where the
rudder cables cross the spar.Gave up on Vans nose wheels and ordered a new fork
from Vans,and a?Groves axle and wheel.Vans is a great company but they dropped
the ball on the nose wheel and axle .Lightspeeds sent off for service bulletins,
and Vans service bulletins complied with. GRT modified for 430 waas approaches.If
your instrument rated? fly a waas approach there everywhere now and
amazing.What a great choice in an airplane.HOPE TO SEE MANY OF YOU AT OSH.????????????????????????
Jim-728DD-230 hrs
Message 12
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| Subject: | Canopy Question / Observation |
Hi
It has been an interesting weekend on the building front. Today I mated the
tail cone with the fuse. And then, I fitted the canopy. I must say, the
completed fuse is an impressive sight. It almost made my wife forget that
she had to park outside for the winter.
Anyway, I have a couple of observations I thought I would share.
First off, I used a Dremmel Multi-Max oscillating tool to trim the canopy.
It took a couple of wood/drywall blades to complete the job but it did it
nicely. I found that it was easy to control the cut line and get a very
precise & straight cut. I don't think a normal reciprocating saw would have
done as neat a job. Given that it cost under $100 CDN (about $80US), it was
well worth the investment.
The other observation is that the tail cone really does attach quite easily.
It took my friend Larry and I only about an hour or so to get everything
lined up and clecoed.
I do have a question regarding the canopy fit. I plan to call Van's tomorrow
but thought I would ask the list first. After fitting the doors square, I
notice that the rear of the canopy sits about 3/16" above the skins (that is
the distance between the top of the canopy joggle and the top of the side
skins. Is this normal? If I want to get it lower, it looks like I would have
to take too much depth off the bottom of the door.
Cheers
Les
#40643 - Some assembly required (but less than yesterday)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Question / Observation |
Hey, Les... sounds like we're at about the same point in the build. I
actually found that the gap between the top of the skin and the joggle was
slightly bigger on the forward side (near the door opening). 3/16" sounds
like a lot, though. Ours is probably 1/16 or maybe 3/32 at its biggest
point. Even with that gap, we had to trim the bottoms of the door openings
very thin, pretty much eliminating that 1/16" the plans call for.
We clecoed on the tailcone forward top skin, and it fit nice and snug
against the cabin top. The canopy joggle gap was huge on the sides, but a
call to Van's confirmed that is okay, given there's plenty of edge
distance. I'm curious if you encounter the same thing.
-Rob
On Sun, May 3, 2009 at 9:10 PM, Les Kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
> Hi
>
>
> It has been an interesting weekend on the building front. Today I mated t
he
> tail cone with the fuse. And then, I fitted the canopy. I must say, the
> completed fuse is an impressive sight. It almost made my wife forget that
> she had to park outside for the winter=85
>
>
> Anyway, I have a couple of observations I thought I would share.
>
>
> First off, I used a Dremmel Multi-Max oscillating tool to trim the canopy
.
> It took a couple of wood/drywall blades to complete the job but it did it
> nicely. I found that it was easy to control the cut line and get a very
> precise & straight cut. I don=92t think a normal reciprocating saw would
have
> done as neat a job. Given that it cost under $100 CDN (about $80US), it w
as
> well worth the investment.
>
>
> The other observation is that the tail cone really does attach quite
> easily. It took my friend Larry and I only about an hour or so to get
> everything lined up and clecoed.
>
>
> I do have a question regarding the canopy fit. I plan to call Van=92s
> tomorrow but thought I would ask the list first. After fitting the doors
> square, I notice that the rear of the canopy sits about 3/16=94 above the
> skins (that is the distance between the top of the canopy joggle and the
top
> of the side skins. Is this normal? If I want to get it lower, it looks li
ke
> I would have to take too much depth off the bottom of the door.
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
> Les
>
> #40643 ' Some assembly required (but less than yesterday)
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Wings
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
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